Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Beijing Restaurants-west side

Here alas is another reply that is richer in sociability than in instructive content. First of all, I was in Beijing in 2004 and 2005, which means that my information is woefully out-of-date given all the changes that apparently took place in the run-up to the Olympics and beyond.

We did stay in the west/northwest (Haidian area), perhaps near you but I failed to note where you are staying. We were primarily at the Friendship Hotel and at the Uniscenter on the Tsinghua campus, and in a less than memorable area of the north near what became the Olympic Village.

The curious thing -- and the main point of my reply -- is this: most of our memorable meals were one-off cultural experiences rather than fine Chinese meals in great restaurant finds (if that makes any sense).

What do I mean? Well, Chinese colleagues wanted to show us a good time so we took direction. Purists will cringe but we did try imperial cuisine at both Fanshang Fandian (in Beihai Park)and also at another Disney-esque Ming or Qing fantasy restaurant not far from the universities. It is perhaps like going to Durgin Park in Boston...not an experience to repeat but potentially of value done once.

Second, we were treated to a long leisurely dinner on a flat bottom boat drifting in one of the lakes; little speedboats periodically arrived to replenish courses, cart away used dishes, and if needed whisk a diner off to a restroom. Very relaxing and great for conversation, I'll admit.

Third, there was a banquet at Diaoyutai, a pampering experience where it was extraordinary to be shown Mme Mao's quarters.

Fourth, while on our own for a night we sampled "Peking Duck" at one of the Quan Jude branches. My son was mildly traumatized by the duck head ceremoniously placed on the table, but we otherwise had a grand time.

Fifth, a friend who had lived in both China and SEA suggested we all meet at Nuage, a trendy Vietnamese restaurant by Qian Hai/Hou Hai. It was engaging and, as suggested above, the Back Lakes area offers quite the lively social scene.

Sixth, we cheated. We indulged our homesick teen with both a lunch at Hard Rock Cafe and a dinner at an Italian (gasp) restaurant in Chaoyang called Annie's.

Seven, I recall hotel cuisine, including a Cantonese meal at Horizon.

Eight, when we stayed on the other side of town at the Kerry Centre Hotel (a Shangri-la) in Chaoyang, the breakfast buffet was so lavish that one was set for much of the day.

Nine, we had numerous meals which followed a certain drill. A group of us would troop after Chinese colleagues into a restaurant, often into a private room as is common for large parties. Locals would order, many dishes would arrive, we would feast, and the meal would end abruptly and without ceremony (at least in comparison with western norms). It was great fun but I sheepishly admit that we often had a quite blunted awareness of where we had been to dine. There are lots of places near the main gates to Tsinghua University.

So there, perhaps a guide to how not to do it! I look forward to reading of your discoveries.

I'll end with a question. After reading Jen Liu's book, are you tempted to try the Black Sesame Cooking School? They seem to have Friday and Saturday events at a minimum:

http://www.blacksesamekitchen.com/index.html