Barefoot in Burm
Nov 26th, 2016, 11:38 AM
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Barefoot in Burm
Greetings, just returned last week from my first trip to Burma. I had long wanted to visit this country and finally was able to make it happen this year. I have to say it did not disappoint! I'm still trying to digest everything I saw and experienced and so grateful to have had the opportunity to visit.
My itinerary was as follows:
Yangon: 1 night
Bagan: 3 nights
Monywa: 1 night
Mandalay: 2 nights
Kalaw: 2 nights
Inle Lake: 3 nights
Golden Rock: 1 night
Yangon: 2 nights
I received a lot of helpful information from this board, especially reading trip reports, thank you for all the info!
I booked everything through Santa Maria tours and really had no problems. I used a car and driver for most of the trip and guides about half the time. The only thing I thought was odd is that no one from the company checked in to see how everything was going. Since everything worked out it wasn't really an issue but just different from other companies I have used when traveling.
I was traveling solo, 44 y/o male, I met my partner later in Bangkok... Burma wouldn't really have been his cup of tea
Trip highlights:
If I had to pick a favorite from this trip hands down it would be Bagan. History and archeology are hobbies of mine and Bagan captivated me in the way the temples of Angkor did. I read Paul Strachans book cover to cover before the trip so felt I had a background on the various building periods and temple styles. I had 3 full days and I only used a guide one day. He was ok but honestly in looking back really not necessary. I used the same horsecart driver I hired outside the Hotel @ Tharabar gate for the second two days. Even though he wasn't a "guide" I felt he had a greater knowledge of the area than the guide I hired did. A few of my favorite temples were Abeyadana, Nagayon and Gubyaukgyi. Also the Ananda and Dhammayangi wowed by virtue of their massive presence!
I'm glad I did the hot air balloon ride... just like being a bird floating over the temples. Only wish it could have lasted longer....
The Hpo Win Daung caves outside of Monywa were another real highlight. It did take a few hours drive to get their but well worth it. Hundreds of caves carved into the hillside. I LOVED all the paintings. I basically had the place to myself with the exception of some villagers. It was such a quiet, serene morning.... I'll never forget it
I actually enjoyed my time in Mandalay. I had read so many negative things about the city so maybe I had low expectations but didnt dislike it. I mean I wasn't expecting a Rudyard Kipling poem but I found it an interesting enough place. Things I enjoyed the most were the boat ride to Mingun, Hsinbyume Paya, Mahamuni Paya, Shwenandaw Kyaung (exquisite woodwork!) and Kuthodaw Paya.
I visited Sagaing one day and Inwa and Amanapura another day. For atmosphere I enjoyed Inwa the most, minus the horribly bumpy horsecart ride, followed by Sagaing.
I have to say the view from Pon Nya Shin Paya in late afternoon, sunset was magnificent! Golden stupas peaking out through all the lush green foliage... magical. I think I even enjoyed this more than the view from Mandalay Hill, which was beautiful as well.
I went trekking for a day while I was in Kalaw and it felt great! I've been on multi-day and multi-week treks in Peru and the Himalayas so this was short but it felt so good to connect with nature! All the beautiful yellow fields of sesame, ginger, tea and dozens of other crops, it was enjoyable taking it all in.
The place I stayed in Kalaw looked like it had been plucked from the English countryside, I had to remind myself I was in Burma, lol.
I debated whether or not to visit the Golden Rock but really glad I did. The main reason I wanted to visit other than see it was because I had read it is a major pilgrimage place for the Burmese. I always find places like this fascinating. Getting there was quite an ordeal. It was definitely the most uncomfortable ride in a flat bed truck I have ever experienced. They cram you in so tight, worse than a Tokyo subway during rush hour! But it was worth it, the place has a very tranquil energy. I stayed at the Mountain Top hotel which was really convienent. I was able to be there for both sunset and sunrise. I was definitely a curiousity to many of the local people.
On the return trip to Yangon I was able to stop at Bago and visit some of the sites of the former kingdom. I love history so I found it interesting but it may not be worthwhile for everyone
Trip disappointments:
U-Bein Bridge: I was really looking forward to this but the truth is the place at sunset is a complete zoo. Hordes of people jostling both above and below the bridge to get that perfect photo. I spent about 45 minutes there and couldn't wait to leave, it had zero atmosphere. Maybe if I had visited five or ten years ago it would have been a different experience
The weather at Inle Lake: In one word, dreadful. Clouds, gray skies and rain off and on. I still did enjoy visiting the floating villages and especially the Indein ruins. I only had two full days and while the weather did get a little better the afternoon of the second day it was still hard to fully enjoy the place with the miserable weather. What I would have given for one clear sunny day! I have to say it was a real treat though to stay at the Inle Princess! Beautiful, spacious chalets and wonderful service
Fake monk scam in Yangon: Having spent the past 20 years traveling around the world I have certainly encountered my share of scams targeting travelers but this was a new one for me. Basically one night I was walking around Yangon and decided to visit the Sule Paya. After walking in a "monk" approached me. He didn't speak great English but appeared to want to show me he highlights. I really just wanted alone time so politely said no thank you and went about my visit, While I was there I noticed him a few times but he never approached me. After 30 minutes I went to put my ever useful flipflops on and departed. As soon as I left the "monk" was waiting outside for me. He wanted to take me to his monastery. At this point I knew this guy had to be a fraud. I have traveled to many Buddhist countries and never once has a monk even come near me. Well said no again and this guy proceeds to follow me through the streets of Yangon at times being quite aggressive in his behavior. At one point he put beads around my neck and demanded payment. I promptly handed them back. I was finally able to lose him near the fly over. The whole experience disgusted me. When I got back to my hotel I googled fake monk scam Yangon and sure enough it is a known problem they are trying to crack down on. I understand it is a desperately poor country but posing as a Buddhist monk to extort money from tourists? Pretty disgraceful IMO
Overall the trip was incredible and I learned and experienced so many things I will never forget. In the future maybe a return visit! I must say to for the most part I found the people to be incredibly kind and hospitable and I was sincerely grateful for this!
After this adventure I had the luxury of meeting my partner in Thailand, one of our favorite places, for a week. We spent time in Bangkok and Krabi. One of my favorite hotels in the world the Peninsula did not disappoint! I also went to Sj International, another tradition, to have a ring made. Last year in Africa my partner surprised me with a tanzanite stone he purchased there. I brought it to SJ and courtesy of Lily they crafted an absolutely gorgeous ring! I absolutely love it
While Krabi was beautiful I think I prefer Phuket for a beach, sea getaway. The beaches were more crowded than the place we stay in Phuket. On return to Bangkok we decided to stay at the St. Regis for 2 nights before our return home. I really loved this hotel as well, especially the spa! I think the next time we return to Bangkok we'll split our time between the Peninsula (river location) and a more central hotel...totally different experience!
In case you are wondering the reason I titled this Barefooot in Burma is because of any place I've been I don't think I've ever spent so much time without shoes! Comfortable flip flops were the indispensable travel item for this trip!
My itinerary was as follows:
Yangon: 1 night
Bagan: 3 nights
Monywa: 1 night
Mandalay: 2 nights
Kalaw: 2 nights
Inle Lake: 3 nights
Golden Rock: 1 night
Yangon: 2 nights
I received a lot of helpful information from this board, especially reading trip reports, thank you for all the info!
I booked everything through Santa Maria tours and really had no problems. I used a car and driver for most of the trip and guides about half the time. The only thing I thought was odd is that no one from the company checked in to see how everything was going. Since everything worked out it wasn't really an issue but just different from other companies I have used when traveling.
I was traveling solo, 44 y/o male, I met my partner later in Bangkok... Burma wouldn't really have been his cup of tea
Trip highlights:
If I had to pick a favorite from this trip hands down it would be Bagan. History and archeology are hobbies of mine and Bagan captivated me in the way the temples of Angkor did. I read Paul Strachans book cover to cover before the trip so felt I had a background on the various building periods and temple styles. I had 3 full days and I only used a guide one day. He was ok but honestly in looking back really not necessary. I used the same horsecart driver I hired outside the Hotel @ Tharabar gate for the second two days. Even though he wasn't a "guide" I felt he had a greater knowledge of the area than the guide I hired did. A few of my favorite temples were Abeyadana, Nagayon and Gubyaukgyi. Also the Ananda and Dhammayangi wowed by virtue of their massive presence!
I'm glad I did the hot air balloon ride... just like being a bird floating over the temples. Only wish it could have lasted longer....
The Hpo Win Daung caves outside of Monywa were another real highlight. It did take a few hours drive to get their but well worth it. Hundreds of caves carved into the hillside. I LOVED all the paintings. I basically had the place to myself with the exception of some villagers. It was such a quiet, serene morning.... I'll never forget it
I actually enjoyed my time in Mandalay. I had read so many negative things about the city so maybe I had low expectations but didnt dislike it. I mean I wasn't expecting a Rudyard Kipling poem but I found it an interesting enough place. Things I enjoyed the most were the boat ride to Mingun, Hsinbyume Paya, Mahamuni Paya, Shwenandaw Kyaung (exquisite woodwork!) and Kuthodaw Paya.
I visited Sagaing one day and Inwa and Amanapura another day. For atmosphere I enjoyed Inwa the most, minus the horribly bumpy horsecart ride, followed by Sagaing.
I have to say the view from Pon Nya Shin Paya in late afternoon, sunset was magnificent! Golden stupas peaking out through all the lush green foliage... magical. I think I even enjoyed this more than the view from Mandalay Hill, which was beautiful as well.
I went trekking for a day while I was in Kalaw and it felt great! I've been on multi-day and multi-week treks in Peru and the Himalayas so this was short but it felt so good to connect with nature! All the beautiful yellow fields of sesame, ginger, tea and dozens of other crops, it was enjoyable taking it all in.
The place I stayed in Kalaw looked like it had been plucked from the English countryside, I had to remind myself I was in Burma, lol.
I debated whether or not to visit the Golden Rock but really glad I did. The main reason I wanted to visit other than see it was because I had read it is a major pilgrimage place for the Burmese. I always find places like this fascinating. Getting there was quite an ordeal. It was definitely the most uncomfortable ride in a flat bed truck I have ever experienced. They cram you in so tight, worse than a Tokyo subway during rush hour! But it was worth it, the place has a very tranquil energy. I stayed at the Mountain Top hotel which was really convienent. I was able to be there for both sunset and sunrise. I was definitely a curiousity to many of the local people.
On the return trip to Yangon I was able to stop at Bago and visit some of the sites of the former kingdom. I love history so I found it interesting but it may not be worthwhile for everyone
Trip disappointments:
U-Bein Bridge: I was really looking forward to this but the truth is the place at sunset is a complete zoo. Hordes of people jostling both above and below the bridge to get that perfect photo. I spent about 45 minutes there and couldn't wait to leave, it had zero atmosphere. Maybe if I had visited five or ten years ago it would have been a different experience
The weather at Inle Lake: In one word, dreadful. Clouds, gray skies and rain off and on. I still did enjoy visiting the floating villages and especially the Indein ruins. I only had two full days and while the weather did get a little better the afternoon of the second day it was still hard to fully enjoy the place with the miserable weather. What I would have given for one clear sunny day! I have to say it was a real treat though to stay at the Inle Princess! Beautiful, spacious chalets and wonderful service
Fake monk scam in Yangon: Having spent the past 20 years traveling around the world I have certainly encountered my share of scams targeting travelers but this was a new one for me. Basically one night I was walking around Yangon and decided to visit the Sule Paya. After walking in a "monk" approached me. He didn't speak great English but appeared to want to show me he highlights. I really just wanted alone time so politely said no thank you and went about my visit, While I was there I noticed him a few times but he never approached me. After 30 minutes I went to put my ever useful flipflops on and departed. As soon as I left the "monk" was waiting outside for me. He wanted to take me to his monastery. At this point I knew this guy had to be a fraud. I have traveled to many Buddhist countries and never once has a monk even come near me. Well said no again and this guy proceeds to follow me through the streets of Yangon at times being quite aggressive in his behavior. At one point he put beads around my neck and demanded payment. I promptly handed them back. I was finally able to lose him near the fly over. The whole experience disgusted me. When I got back to my hotel I googled fake monk scam Yangon and sure enough it is a known problem they are trying to crack down on. I understand it is a desperately poor country but posing as a Buddhist monk to extort money from tourists? Pretty disgraceful IMO
Overall the trip was incredible and I learned and experienced so many things I will never forget. In the future maybe a return visit! I must say to for the most part I found the people to be incredibly kind and hospitable and I was sincerely grateful for this!
After this adventure I had the luxury of meeting my partner in Thailand, one of our favorite places, for a week. We spent time in Bangkok and Krabi. One of my favorite hotels in the world the Peninsula did not disappoint! I also went to Sj International, another tradition, to have a ring made. Last year in Africa my partner surprised me with a tanzanite stone he purchased there. I brought it to SJ and courtesy of Lily they crafted an absolutely gorgeous ring! I absolutely love it
While Krabi was beautiful I think I prefer Phuket for a beach, sea getaway. The beaches were more crowded than the place we stay in Phuket. On return to Bangkok we decided to stay at the St. Regis for 2 nights before our return home. I really loved this hotel as well, especially the spa! I think the next time we return to Bangkok we'll split our time between the Peninsula (river location) and a more central hotel...totally different experience!
In case you are wondering the reason I titled this Barefooot in Burma is because of any place I've been I don't think I've ever spent so much time without shoes! Comfortable flip flops were the indispensable travel item for this trip!
Nov 26th, 2016, 12:28 PM
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I'm so glad you enjoyed Burma! Sorry you had bad weather at Inle, it's such a magical place. We went to the Hpo Win Daung caves across the river from Monywa during our 2015 trip and they are remarkable. We are hoping to return to Burma for our 4th trip in 2017.
We were fortunate to be able to travel to Burma before some places got too over-crowded. It sounds like U-Bien is no longer a must-visit.
We were fortunate to be able to travel to Burma before some places got too over-crowded. It sounds like U-Bien is no longer a must-visit.
