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laartista Feb 21st, 2009 03:24 AM

Bali- Wowie!!
 
So unlike all my previous reports this will not be a day by day blow, you can all breath a sigh of relief, hard enough keeping up with Florence. Besides I was in Bali for nearly a month and can't remember alot of the day to day. Instead I'll do highlights and tons of photos.

First, I LOVE,LOVE ,LOVED BALI!!!!!! Was a bit nervous because last year or whenever that was I was really pumped for Thailand and although I liked it was not wowed. I know Thailand is super popular on this board, that's just my take. But Bali, it was everything I thought it would be and more.

The reason for the trip was primarily business. I had relocated to Italy back in August. After a 10 year stint as a mosaic artist and a few pinched nerves later I folded up my business , microchipped the cat and dragged his fuzzy ass with me to Florence to be inspired for my new venture as a jewelry designer. Designs in hand I headed to Bali 3rd week of January to find a small manufacturer who would be able to translate my drawings into wearable pieces. I have never done this before, was really nervous, was not quite sure how to go about it, with some research beforehand and on a wing and a prayer and a Singapore Airline flight from Milan I left for Bali.

Kristina Feb 21st, 2009 05:16 AM

Ciao Andrea! Glad to see you! Looking forward to more...

cruisinred Feb 21st, 2009 05:44 AM

Can't wait to hear more!!

thursdaysd Feb 21st, 2009 05:57 AM

Good for you! Looking forward to more. (Are you selling through a web site?)

marya_ Feb 21st, 2009 07:16 AM

Looking forward to reading lots more...

laartista Feb 21st, 2009 07:43 AM

Thanks you guys! Will market first to large stores and do a trade show in May, website will eventually follow :)I will try not to be too long winded but kind of have an editing problem.

Getting There:

Nothing like waiting until 3 weeks before you plan on leaving to get a plane ticket. I kept waiting for the prices to go down which they really didn't. Anyway I booked rt Singapore Milan to Denpasar connecting in Singapore. Economy class which I haven't flown long haul since becoming friends w/ Robin, 1100 E about 1500 dollars. Flight to leave Milan around 1pm on Tues. the 21st Jan. from Malpensa. Knowing the Italian train system as I do by now I decided it wise to leave from Florence the day before and spend the night in Milan.

I had secured 3 weeks of kitty sitting for Bear w/ my German friend young Philipp and my Polish friend Magda. Bear now speaks 4 languages! I paid them each 60 E to share the duties and was promised one of them would stay with him every night. They actually hung out here alot because I have satallite TV, not to mention a view of the Duomo.

So good thing I decided to leave for Milan Monday. Philipp and his friend who was visiting were kind enough to bring me and my bags to Santa Maria Novello Station to get the 2:15 ES train to Milano. They dropped me off with 20 minutes to spare, got my ticket, 2:10 no bin number, board reads delayed. Well for the next four hours every train that was to leave for Milan on the 15 was delayed. Seemed there was a demonstration on the tracks in Naples keeping the trains from getting to Florence. What else is new?

While waiting or should I say crowding around the tiny TrenItalia emergency kiosk with a bunch of irate tourists and Italians I was chatting with a woman from Zurich and we ended up chatting all the way to Milan when the train finally came. Better than being bored to death while sitting on my luggage under a yellow validation box while sipping a lukewarm orange Fanta.

Anyway, finally made it to Milan, stayed at the Andreala Hotel www.andreolahotel.it/ about 1 1/2 blocks from Centrale Station. Made friends w/ Alessio at the desk who has since tracked me down on Facebook. Next a.m. caught Malpensa express on a cold rainy day for about 7 E from Centrale to Malpensa, ride about 45 minutes. Check in was smooth as was boarding. Got my own row of three seats in row 56, service was great, food was ok, flight was smooth ,slept about 5 of the 12+ hour trip to Singapore.

Needed to change terminals in Singapore for my connection, had about 2 hours, luckily Singapore Airport has Starbucks!!!!!! So there I went for a grande vanilla skinny latte ( I really miss those) and bought 2 Starbucks Singapore mugs ( 1 for Robin) we both collect them. She was flying in from NY and meeting me in Bali. Not only is she my travel buddy but also my new business partner. We'll see how that pans out. Anyhoo, flight to Denpasar 2 1/2 hrs, short, quick, flew through customs, paid my 25$ US for visa on arrival and sat my tired ass on a bench waiting for Robin who was arriving an hour after me, turned into 2 ,she did not fly through customs. While waiting I was chatting up some Balinese guy who was taking surveys, he got paid for each one he got filled out. Always glad to help, I of course filled one out about tourism, he gave me a gift of coasters and I told him Robin would answer one too when she got there, which she did. She saw my Starbucks bag and remarked I said ," I got us mugs! Singapore mugs!" She laughed and said, " Well I got us Kuala Lumpur mugs!" Great minds think alike. She took an ass backward way there flying Delta NYC to ATL to MUMBAI where she sat in a room for 4 hours because she had no visa for India and then boarded a Malaysia Air flight to Denpasar connecting through Kuala Lumpur. Took HER, 2 days to get to Bali. We found a driver 195,000 Rupee about 17 bucks to get to Ubud and the Adi Cottages where would be staying.

Hotel:

Booked 2 nights before I left Florence at Adi Cottages. Originally tried to get Tegal Sari but they were booked. Worked out better though because I like Adi location better than that of Tegal Sari. Anyway booked a twin room for a week at 45 Us p/night. On arrival and shown to our room it was ok but kind of old. Half the hotel has been redone so half the rooms are great and 1/2 just ok. Back to the desk asked Wayan girl, everyones name is Wayan or Made, if they had something else. She showed us the delux room for 60 US and the junior suite for 75 US p/night. Now the delux was really nice but the junior suite was even better. She said she would give a discount for a week's saty of 10%. I asked if we stayed for 10 nights could we have a better discount. She called the owner, he said if we paid up front we could have the suite for 55 US p/ night SOLD!!

Originally planned on staying in Ubud for 10 days and at the beach for 10 days. But, it was rainy season and most of the beaches were a mess, well Kuta, Seminyak were, plus we really liked Ubud ( I recently read anothers review of Ubiud they didn't much care for it, well I disagree) and our room was great as was the hotel staff and our driver who we found was there and I knew I'd have to stay longer than Robin so for 26 nights we stayed at Adi. Once Robin left I still stayed in the suite, they turned the twins into one big king and lowered my price to 45 p/night for one. It is located smack in the middle of Monkey Forest Road ,great loaction especially for walking at dark, will definitely stay there again, hopefully in September. Website and my pix of hotel below:

http://www.adicottagesubud.com/

http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidh...y=-KkCg5Mqo3s#

Next thoughts on Ubud

Kathie Feb 21st, 2009 07:59 AM

I'm delighted you loved Bali!

I do have to say, though, that I expect your enjoyment of Thailand was impaired by traveling with people you didn't know and it turned out you didn't like. It sounds like that was not an issue this trip.

rhkkmk Feb 21st, 2009 08:45 AM

i'm so disappointed that you did not invite the other two lame women to meet you....they would have added spice to this trip...haha

anxious to hear more about your experiences and how it went working with the bali manufacturers...

give thailand a try another time with robin alone...

laartista Feb 21st, 2009 08:51 AM

I'm jsut waiting for pics to upload, Italian internet key sucks!

rhk- I'm thinking next time to Thailand w/ the boyfriend!

Re: the other 2 lame women, Robin never heard from them again! They must have caught wind of that trip report- tee hee.

I will definitely eventually get to the jewelry, really interesting experience, quite different from creating w/ your own hands to using other peoples hands. I have a good feeling though, even if the economic climate right now is probably not the best time to launch, lol we'll see.

laartista Feb 21st, 2009 09:21 AM

Thanks Kathy! I suppose you are right re: Thailand and will at some point give it another try heading north next time. As far as Bali goes, I hope this jewelry thing takes off ,I could see living there a few months a year.

Ubud:

So, I've read alot of stuff on Ubud, most like it, some do not. Some think it is too commercial,not the real Bali ( whatever that means and so on) well compared to the beach areas I think Ubud is alot more real and I loved it. Not to say there aren't a bunch of hippy throwbacks,new cafes and shops and yes tie dye and dreads seem to be the fashion of choice, but I spent almost a month in this town ,walked all over, through ,around, outskirts and I thought it was just beautiful, even the not so beautiful parts. I was smitten w/ Ubud! I loved the crooked unjulating ( sp) sidewalks, the cafes, the temples, and temples and temples, the architecture and gardens, the flowers and fountains and even the monkey forest, I even loved those crazy monkies( more on them later.

Monkey Forest Road is the main drag in Ubud, but there is alot more to see than just Monkey Forest Road. It's a good location to stay though, lots of stuff to do, OR just lounge around like I did most of the time.

In Ubud there are a ton of spas, and it is cheap, crazy cheap for treatments! I love my beauty treatments and due to not working and living on a budget they are kind of out of my reach in Florence these days. But ,in Ubud, they ARE in my budget. And considering this is a no make-up, frizzy hair humidity holiday I needed all the help I could get. This had to be my ugliest vacation ever. There was no way to look put together. Even Robin ,who was applying lip gloss in the Sahara desert gave up on the make-up a week in, I never even bothered. Grew up in S. Florida and know that stuff will just slide off your face.

During my time there I had 14 massages, from reflexology to Balinese, to deep tissue. Reflexology at the place attached to Adi Cottage on the other side from the restaurant being my favorite. 60,000 Rupee gets you an hour full body reflexology massage, thats about 4.50 US, that is nuts!In Florence that would set me back 100E that's 130 US And that is why I had 14. One hour Pedicures, 4, each time with little flowers on my toes,sometimes pink, sometimes orange. 60-80,000 depending where I went, included a lower leg massage. Hair creme baths, deep conditioning w/ aloe on your scalp 60-80,000, I had 2. If I didn't get so sunburn, I still don't understand how, rained alot of the time or was overcast I would have indulged in a few body scrubs and facials, next time:)

I am usually a night owl but on this trip I was up before dawn and asleep most nights by 9. Don't know why, could have been the heat, not sure, but one of my favorite things was to walk around at dawn, I felt so relaxed there except for every 3rd day when I visited the factory we decided on.

Not without some hiccups though, while in Bali I got an awful sunburn, followed by sun blisters, the b
Bali flu which was going around. Good thing I had my Cipro w/ me. Robin got a bad cold for 3 days ,I had the flu for a week, walking around in the rain everyday probably didn't help. I'm not done, maybe too much info BUT 4 days of the runs, a bee stung me on my back while trying on a dress, AND twisted my arm white water rafting! Still ,I loved Bali! and Ubud. I'll let the pix speak for themselves. Took over 1,000, edited for here in sections for easy viewing :

http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidh...y=hy3zsYmi7hA#


Gpanda Feb 21st, 2009 10:00 AM

The massages in Bali are great. I could not get enough of them. If they were this cheap in the US, I would never get any work done. I found the late afternoon to be the best time for a massage. My wah was in the proper mode and I was in the proper mood.

Thanks for the report. There's a reason why so many are attracted to Bali.

filmwill Feb 21st, 2009 11:13 AM

Oh god, this is killing me! I can't believe we have to wait over a year to get there!! AAAGGH! Don't tease me with anymore of this talk of cheap massage, rice fields and monkeys. I want to go now!! :)

laartista Feb 21st, 2009 11:20 AM

Oh, Filmwill, wait til I get to the rest of the island and the handicrafts and the food! All FABULOUS!!!!! Not to mention my driver, the best!

Gpanda- I agree, if they were this cheap anywhere else I'd get nothing done, I'd be at the spa everyday! We usually went at about 5 in the afternoon, probably why I slept so well there.

bkk95 Feb 21st, 2009 05:31 PM

Your pics are bringing back so many GREAT memories of Ubud - I walked all over Ubud just exploring the place and seeing your pics of the Monkey Forest and the town itself makes me feel like I am there again! I normally don't do massages but I couldn't resist going to one in Ubud because of the prices. I was walking in a stupor after one of them - looked like I was drunk walking down Monkey Forest Road.

Can't wait to see the rest of your pics and read about the other parts of Bali that you explored.

laartista Feb 22nd, 2009 01:33 AM

Thanks Bkk, I took so many photos, there was a photo-op around every corner.

Lake Beratan:

In between every 3 days of going to meetings we had a lot of down time so we took advantage of having a great driver who's info I will give as soon as Robin emails me, I can't hold on to cards for the life of me! Anyhoo it was a Sunday and we headed to Lake Beratan, GitGit Twin Waterfalls and Tenah Lot. It was a long great day.

Our first stop was Lake Beratan, about an hour drive from Ubud. During our trip I always sat in front w/ Made, mainly because I tend to get a bit motion sickness. Luckily Robin never minded. On the way there he periodically stopped at different places for us to take pictures. The countryside of Bali is really beautiful and I soaked it all in, I looked at everything and found everything interesting.

It was Sunday so there was some traffic on the road as many Balinese were going to the lake and Botanical Gardens w/ their families. Where we went on the lake, where the temples were was more of a tourist spot with the mandatory small market in the parking lot. Made dropped us off , said to take our time and he would be waiting, which he always was.

Beautiful gardens, floating temples, stone carvings, total eye candy.

http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidh...y=RN5mDbbhc48#

Git Git Twin Waterfall

After Lake Beratan we headed to see the Git Git Twin Waterfall, I guess about 1/2 hour or so maybe longer, what I do remember is the road was very windy and I was glad I was sitting up front, Robin was not! We passed more monkies and stands selling bananas for them. When we arrived at the waterfall Made said we should get a guide, did we really need one, probably not BUT it was nice to have him. 30,000 R, done.

There was an admission fee of I think 1,000R or 2,000R basically run by the families that lived in the hills surrounding the park. There was no shortage of cute little kids hawking their beaded necklaces and I assured them on the way out we would buy some.

It is a beautiful walk to the waterfall, a bit tricky at times and I wished I had my sneakers opposed to the flip flops I was wearing. Along the path the occasional hut selling product di Bali especially spices. But like in
other places we didn't find the salespeople too nagging,
not as bad as other places I've been. A simple thanks but
no sufficed. We spent a while by the waterfall, Made found
a comfortable spot on a rock while we snapped photos.If I had known we were going there I would have worn a swimsuit but it was a spur of the moment thing. Would have been great to get under that waterfall.

I guess we spent about an hour there and sure enough as we exited the park there were the children with elephant memories. It was a funny scene, they were all talking at the same time, there were 9 of them. I said, ok, you guys chill out a minute, ssh, everyone ssh. They understood that and I was surrounded as they listened quietly. O.k. there are 9 of you, how much are the necklaces? All talking above each other now 10,000, 10,000, 10,000. Ok. Ok. I said ssh! Who's the oldest? The guide pointed to the tallest girl maybe 7 or 8 yr. old, it was a young crowd. I said, you are in charge of the Rupee and you will give each some ( I only had 50's on me, about 4 bucks) I said how about 9 for 50,000, they all shook their head and then each stretched out their little arm with necklaces dangling from them. I picked one from each and gave the girl the 50,000 note. I said now make sure to share and she shook her head.

The average Balinese makes equivilant to about 75 US a month, and that's for the ones in better paying jobs like in the service industry. So, we tipped always, not extravaggant, but a good amount and usually bought stuff from kids. Figured those rupee go a longer way for them than a Starbucks coffee for me.

http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidh...y=QkLpSfAZXPs#


laartista Feb 22nd, 2009 03:38 AM

After the Waterfalls it was time to re-fuel, we ate at a buffet style place on the way to Tanah Lot which was about 1 hour 20 min. away. The place was really pretty but the food unlike all the other food we had ,not so great. It was really our only so so meal. Wait, that's not true one other meal actually sucked, more on that later.

Anyway, Tanah Lot is at the village of Beraban located on the west coast of Bali. The temple made up of a bunch of caves sits in the water and is to worship the balinese gods. To get there you must walk thru a HUGE market! We did not stop to shop as we had already indulged plenty in Ubud.

We got there at about 4:30 in the afternoon. My favorite time of day, I love the light at that time of day. This place is gorgeous, should be seen but a tourist mecca and pretty swamped. All the tourists with the exception of us seemed to partake in some blessings where pieces of rice get stuck to their foreheads. I didn't get it, so no sticky head rice for me.

We walked through the water to the temple, it was just beautiful! After spent some time taking photos along the rock jetty and beach. Not sure why I'm always in the situation of being approached by strangers but there I am taking some pix of the ocean and a bunch of teenage boys appraoch me to answer questions for a school assignment for their English class. They were sweet and the questions were about how well they spoke English and what I thought about Bali etc. Robin got some photos but hasn't forwarded me hers yet. They were cute, seemed really excited to ask their questions, who am I to help out w/ a school assignment.

Afterwards we walked up by where the restaurants overlook the temple and sat ourselves down for a coconut and some scene gazing. We walked back through the market to the parking lot where Made was enjoying an orange drink in a small snack hut. We split a beer before the 1 1/2 hour ride back to Ubud. It was a great day. Pix below

http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidh...y=lUsTvsD0_vU#

thursdaysd Feb 22nd, 2009 04:58 AM

Oh yes, loved Tanah Lot! You may be convincing me I need to go back to Bali. Keep it coming..

laartista Feb 22nd, 2009 08:34 AM

Oh, you for sure need to go back, I've been back about a week and I need to go back:)

Seminyak & Kuta:

So didn't spend much time at Kuta. Went down there a few times primarily for a few meetings in the beginning with places that didn't pan out. My impression of Kuta is probably a great place to hang and stay if you are 20 or so and want to surf by day and get shitfaced by night, just not my scene anymore. We saw the monument to the Bali bombings which was quite sobering and sad. Didn't much care for the shopping or the aesthetic of the area. It's one plus, a Starbucks, which is where we got our Bali mugs.

I liked Legion and Seminyak a bit better but stil not enough to move from Ubud to stay there. Maybe if the weather had been better Seminyak would be a good pick. Lots of restaurants and really great shopping. A lot of cool boutiques by local designers. It was at one of those cool boutiques that I was stung by a bee that was hiding in a dress I was trying on. Haven't had a bee sting in an age, man do they smart! Plus it was the size of a golfball. Straight to the pharmacy I went for relief.

Most days during my stay it rained for at least part of the day. A few days it downpoured and I mean hard all day long! The day we spent at Seminyak was one of those days. Because it was warm it wasn't so bad except I was hacking something awful because it was the week I had the flu. The trooper I am I just sloshed thru that town in my flip flops and newly purchased pink vespa helmet. All I need now is the Vespa!

Anyway, Made dropped us off in front of Cafe Mocha at around 1 pm after a meeting we had and we told him to come back and get us at 7 pm. After about 20 minutes walking around We were really hungry and it was raining something awful so we ducked into the first place we saw which was a pizza/ italian place. I noticed there are a ton of italian places in Bali. And even in non italian places there is pizza or pasta on the menu. Weird because not too many Italians. Lots of Australians and French and Dutch, a few Americans and British.

We walk in took a seat, soaking wet, and I look around and notice there are Italians at every table. Now that I am able to eaves drop. And guess what all eating pizza. It was really funny because Italians in general don't feel it necessary to try other foods, I've spoken to alot of them about it. Their feeling is, Italian is the best why stray. So even in Bali it's pizza and wine.lol We had a hodge podge of dishes that was offered through a small hot buffet.

After lunch we spent most of the day looking in the boutiques. We walked down to the beach where the Sofitel was just to check it out. It was sooooo windy and rainy and thundering, good thing I had my helmet. Noone on the beach except for a few lifeguards planting huge red flags with skull and bones. Oh, and the guy who tried to sell me a harpoon gun. Do I look like the kind of girl that needs a harpoon gun? I mean really! Not a good beach day. The rain got so bad at one point we ducked into the lobby at the Sofitel to wait it out. Nice digs, but I prefer a smaller establishment.

After hours of slushing through the puddle filled streets and rain we met Made, he took us back to Ubud where it was STILL raining!

http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidh...y=ArdAgJxoMbI#

Better weather at Nusa Dua

So, didn't want to entirely give up on the Bali beaches. I will give that award to Thailand, the beaches there are beautiful, Bali, they are ok, no great shakes BUT everything else makes up for it. Anyhoo we head one day to Nusa Dua and then Uluwatu.

Nusa Dua

At first Made took us to this rip-off place to rent a boat, they wanted 60 US pp p/ hour, now in a country where everything is like 5 bucks that's just insane. I said, Made! don't take us to these tourist traps. We decided to have lunch somewhere on the beach, it was a beautiful day and they were in short supply. Here's the thing Nusa Dua is a super quiet area, probably best for honeymooners or people that just like to laze around all day, besides a bevy of water sports not alot to do. BUT there are a bunch of gorgeous resorts and hotels, a bunch more going up AND the beach was the nicest we had seen yet. Any one of the beautiful hotels including the Peninsula will let you park your butt on their beach for the day. You do not have to be staying there to use the beach or pool. We, for some reason opted for a small hotel about 2 down from the peninsula, that caters to Germans. Don't know why, we just ended up there, They had a cute restaurant right on the beach with very tasy food, a nice pool, bigger than ours at Adi and it was empty AND the best part a guy in a hut who had a cousin with a boat. 2 hrs 400,000 ( 35 US) for 3 people. We dragged Made with us.

During lunch Made was chatting with our waiter who was on his was to play chess w/ some German guy on his Honeymoon whose new wife wanted nothing to do with him, so weird. So as we are gathering our stuff to head to the boat which was waiting in the water Made said he wasn't coming he would wait. What? No, you have to come with us Made. He informed us the waiter said the boat driver did not drive the boat well and we shouldn't use him, so he would not go, BUT we should go and have fun. WHAT? Uh Uh, no way, you are coming with, he really had no choice so the 3 of us head to the boat.

So off we go in an older, kind of rickety boat with a small glass bottom window to make you nausious. One, Two, Three, Four times stalling to get out to where we were supposed to snorkel and Made keeps giving us the eye as to say " Told ya so!" We finally anchor and the driver pulls out a bag of bread so we can get the fish to come over to our boat so we could see them while snorkeling. Well, I had no desire to snorkel, and either did Robin but Made did. But Made did not bring his swimsuit. NOt a problem for Made, he strips down to his little blue skivies, we lost it , Robin and I were hysterical, I could not look his way , LOL, OMG was so funny!!! Into the water with the boat driver he went the 2 of them had a blast! Robin eventually jumped in to cool off, I stayed on the boat, We spent a few hours out there before heading back, Tipped our driver on our way to Uluwatu.

http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidh...y=_EDWr1_hBVg#


mohan Feb 23rd, 2009 08:22 AM

Thanks for posting your report. It certainly brings back fond memories.

I had my share of massages in Bali but it was never as inexpensive as $4.50.

The massage women who went around beaches started around $10. Yeah I knew I had to bargain it down but it could get stressful. By the time I paid it would be more anyway because they put in more time or they used an expensive oil or something. I didn't care to argue so whatever. Generally the massages are not as professional as the Thai's in my experience. I would try your reflexology place next time hopefully soon.

Some years ago i met a guy in jewelry manufacturing business, he said (could be just his experience) that while he loves the Balinese, they are not great with deadlines. I thought this piece of info might be helpful to you.

Good luck.

rhkkmk Feb 23rd, 2009 06:11 PM

i'm loving the report and the pics and can't wait to return to bali

laartista Feb 23rd, 2009 11:38 PM

Thanks you two! rhk- you are going back this year, aren't you?

Mohan- never bargained for the massages, they are just really cheap in Ubud. The Refelexology place I went to ALOT is called Touch on Monkey forest Hotel, right next to Adi Cottages and across the road from Pertiwi Hotel. They are very good and have delic. ginger tea when you are done.

As far as the manufacturing goes we went with a company that is run by an ex-pat married to an Indonesian, hopefully they will be ok, I had herad that about other places and deadlines.


Uluwatu-

So it was about a 45 minute drive from Nusa Dua to Uluwatu. The road is windy and uphill but I really loved all the scenery in Bali so it was a nice drive. Uluwatu's official name is Pura Luhur Uluwatu. Considered to be one of the 6 most important temples in Bali it is on the South west part of the island on a cliff that overlooks the ocean. Supposed to protect the balinese from the the evil ocean spirit. Was not aware there is an evil ocean spirit but that's what the temple is for.

Made had been telling us about the uluwatu monkies, seems these monkies are suppose to be the most aggressive on the island, probably because they are constantly taunted by tourists. These are fat monkies and although I did see them steal a few baseball hats I think they are in choots with the locals who charge you a minimal fee to get the hat, sunglasses or whatever else they scoff back. It's a monkey scam :) Anyway, Made said he would protect us from the monkies for free and we stayed close to him at all times guarding our cameras from monkey hands.

When we first arrived we were outfitted with purple sarongs with yellow sashes. it is very beautiful, a walk along a wall that overlooks the ocean along a cliff top up to the temple which was closed off. There is a small amphitheater at top where at sunset they perform the Kecak dance. Now we had already seen one performance of this dance in Ubud at night. It was really dark and hard to photograph, fantastic in person. But here we were at sunset at Uluwatu and thought what a beautiful local to see it again. Tickets were 50,000 R each ( same as we paid in Ubud), the setting is unbelievable and recommended a go see.

The Kecak dance gets it's name from the chak- chak sound that the guys in only black and white checkered sarongs with red sashes recite. It's based on apart of the Hindu Ramayana legend which some guy explains here http://www.edwebproject.org/bali/gallery/kecak.html.

We got a front row seat and Made sat with all the other drivers across the amphitheater from us. He also used to perform in this dance in Ubud. It was about 8:30 by the time we got back to Ubud another long but great day.

Pictures from Uluwatu and below that Kecak Dance at night in Ubud

http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidh...y=AEKd68f8xAU#

http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidh...y=PsXewEsA_3Y#

Next: Biking in Bali

rhkkmk Feb 24th, 2009 10:39 AM

we are going back with gpanda in may '10...

did the fire scare you when they kicked it at the end?? i suggest people sit in the 2nd or 3rd row... its a fantastic spot....and yes those monekeys were the most nasty we saw...even worse than the ones in florence...

filmwill Feb 24th, 2009 12:53 PM

Are you serious, Bob? That's when we'll be there! Uh oh, I feel trouble coming. :)

crosscheck Feb 24th, 2009 06:56 PM

Italy...Bali...You are so Eat Pray Love. Waiting for your India report.

And this is making me want to return to Bali despite similar monkey experiences and a bizarre cremation adventure. Spent a month there in the '80's - My Australian friends thought it was "spoiled" even then. But sounds like it's still magical.

laartista Feb 24th, 2009 10:55 PM

Hey Crosscheck, have not read the book(tried to, couldn't she bugged me) but hear that alot, quite different circumstances, and no plans for India anytime in the near future, unfortunately.


Yeah, I never get it's the whole spoiled rhetoric. Progress eventually hits everywhere or most places in some way, helps the economy in most cases places can't be kept held back because certain travelers, think a place gets spoiled by tourism. I don't know ,just don't get that way of thinking. So yes, despite what your Australian friends think , I think it is magical and wonderful.

laartista Feb 25th, 2009 02:32 AM

Biking in Bali:

We arrived on a Wednesday. That first Monday, with a really bad sunburn from only 2 hours at the pool w/ sun protection 30 we went on a biking tour. Note, I never burn, have olive skin, grew up in S. Florida, that SEA sun is STRONG! Be careful :) Anyway set up to be picked up from our hotel around 8:30 -9 am by the bike company. 350,000R ( 30 bucks) by
www.baliecocycling.com. This was a full day returning around 4 pm.

We were last picked up there was a full van of about 10, we sat in front. I think about 1 hr. 1 hr 15 min to Lakeview restaurant in the area of Mt. Batur w/ a view of the volcano for a breakfast buffet to fuel up.Met some guy Frank,I think, who sat with us at breakfast and I think he was from Oklahoma taking a little vaca by himself. Was a nice guy. We originally planned on doing an early morning hike one day
up the volcano for sunrise and breakfast but almost every overnight and early morning it rained, poured ,so decided next time.

After breakfast we drove to a , I guess it was a coffee plantation. They grew a lot of fruit there as well and the kid who was to be our bike guide gave us a tour of there first. Telling us about the different things that grow in Bali for consumption. We also saw the little animals who's crap produces some of the most expensive coffee in the world LUWAK COFFEE! We sat in an open seating area where we could try one type of coffee or tea for free and pay for others, we ordered 4 different ones including the Luwak coffee. Quite good!After that time to taste the various fruits. I'm not big on super tropical fruits so I didn't much care for them but Robin liked them. Back in the van to pick up the bikes.

Ok so I am probably the least athletic person I know. That said I geared up and got on my bike for a 2 hr. mostly downhill ride, at first. The scenery was beautiful, the poor dogs that occasionaly darted out at me freaked me out and it was HOT! NO amount of SPF was going to save me from sunburn on top of sunburn which led to little blisters. I had to douse myself in aloe for the next week and looked like rudolph by the end of the day. Along the ride we occasionally stopped. Once at a typical Balinese family home, by a temple or 2, under a banyan tree, at a woodcarver. At each stop we were given fruit and new bottles of water. After 2 hours and across a bridge to the last pitstop we were given a choice, keep riding to the restaurant which was a mostly uphill ride or get in the van. Mistakenly I chose the former and as opposed to being in front of the pack downhill, I was the last one going uphill. It was hard! And half way through I thought Eff this, got off my bike and waited in some village for the van who was following us to pick me up. Ah, a/c! Robin was a trooper! She rode the whole way.

At the restaurant in a beautiful setting we all sat down
for a buffet lunch. It was a nice spread, we each also had a bintang and then back to Ubud. I don't usually like beer and never really drink it but I liked Bintang,maybe the heat
made it taste so good. I liked tis company the guides were great, entertaining and really attentive.

http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidh...y=p02-gTZm3qc#

Next white water rafting woohoo

Robbietravels Feb 25th, 2009 01:53 PM

I've been following your report and enjoying it. I just checked out your photos of the Kecek dance in Uluwatu area. I'm adding that to my list of things to do when I go. Thanks, keep it coming.

SuY Feb 26th, 2009 09:01 AM

laartista,

Thanks for the great report. Am heading there in a couple of weeks and can't wait to try some of the stuff. Your driver sounds great. Could you send over his details and how much it cost? Or if anyone else has a driver they can recommend, I would greatly appreciate it!

Su

kmkrnn Feb 26th, 2009 11:39 AM

We used Putu ...one of the many. He can be reached at www.mybalifriend.com. Have used him on 2 different trips. Great sense of humor...he put up with rhk and the panda in the same car.

laartista Feb 26th, 2009 12:21 PM

Thanks Robbie, Suy

to answer rhk-no wasn't scared from fire dance although the one at night I was getting covered in so much ash that I finally moved back a row. The daytime one the kicking was not as violent, more subdued so no ember made it our way.

suy - my driver that I used is

I Made Suka

Hp 081 647 41286

[email protected]

His website is www.ubudinfo.com and her website for balinese dance is
www.balifriend.net/sri

He is great! Not a guide, a driver, but is from Ubud and will tell you anything you want to know about the culture, food, sights etc. I will use him whenever I am there.


A little bit about Made- the best driver ever!
I was given the name of a driver by a friend of my cousin who also does business in Bali. Guy never got back to me. It was Wednesday, we just got there and the next day and Friday would need a driver to take us to our appointments.First day there after we dropped off the bags and before we changed our room when went searching for a massage. About half way to Monkey Forest from the hotel a small non descript place. The massage was great 2 hours for 90,000 R. Anyway when we left as we were walking back just as we had been walking to, approached every 2 feet by a guy offering taxi services. We found a smile and a no thanks did the trick. However there was something about this one guy, perhaps his smile that made us stop. We told him we were going to be there a while and would need lots of driving. After a bout of negotiating we settled on 350,000 R p/ day alittle over 30 bucks. We told him to be at our hotel the next morning at 8 am to take us to Denpasar.

Over my stay in Bali Made drove us and then just me a total of 12 times. NOt only to and back from our appointments but also on trips to sights around the island and to the airport when each of left. We adored Made! The one day he could not make it because of a ceramony he had to attend he sent his brother Wayan to drive me.

After the first day we just gave him 400,000 each time, they were long days and the wages there are so low an extra couple of bucks to us makes a huge difference to him. I also gave him a tip at the end before I left.

We kind of spoiled Made I think, took him to lunch every day he drove us, he always ordered rice except the day we went for Indian food which he did not like. I introduced him to Vanilla skinny lattes at Starbucks which he did like but didn't care for the scones. We took him sightseeing and on the boat with us and after Robin left even on the days he did not drive me, he stopped by the hotel to say hi and see if I needed anything.

We had some great conversations with him. His English is pretty good, not stellar but he had some funny one liners. I taught him a different Italian phrase everyday. His wife works for the government but is also a Balinese dancer and performs in the shows in Ubud. He has 2 children, 2 dogs ( which he cares for very well) and his inlaws live w/ him, his parents are deceased. I consider Made like family now, Can not say enough good about him. Always on time, always patient ALWAYS smiling! He kept us laughing, he kept us safe, and will always be my driver whenever I return.

white water rafting.

We found our rafting company through one of the guys at Touch Reflexology. His brother works for them. Telaga Waja rafting is the name of the company. If you go to the spa they will book you the trip for 50,000R, pick up at 9 am drop off around 3pm. There are about 7 different rafting companies that ride the Telaga Waja river, I think they are all pretty much the same.It is 1 1/2 hr from Ubud to the river.

When we first arrive at the river we are outfitted with helmets, rubberbands on our sunglasses, plastic bags for our belongings that are put into another waterproof bag and tea. A quick walk through the rice paddies down to the river the rafts can hold as many as 6 + the guide. In our raft, just me, Robin and the guide. Very quick instruction and the only thing I really remember from that is when he said boom boom lean back laying down so your head doesn't get ripped off by a tree limb. I heard Boom Boom OFTEN!

I had never been before so was a tad bit nervous, it was Robins 3rd time, once in S. America, once in NY. About 10 min. in our raft is stopped and we are ordered to get out walk in our shoes through the water, really regretted wearing my ecco cross trainers, and take a stairway along side the river. Seems there is a big drop, too dangerous for us. The guides basically throw the rafts over and others collect them at the bottom. Kind of crazy. Then, Half way down the river of about a 2 hr. ride we make a pit stop to see a waterfall and have a drink, We got bintangs and treated our guide to one. Mabe not the best idea giving our guide alchohol, lol. Beer is pretty steep on the river, no competition, I think 25,000R each. After our beer we continue to raft. I had nothing to compare it to but Robin said it was a pretty fast ride consistantly fast more so than the others she had been on.

At the end there is a drop, a little scary, but fun, it was a blast! 100 hundred steps up to a shower area. We were the only idiots who did not bring a change of clothes. We were soaked!!!! Another 50 or so stairs to a treetop cafe where we had a lunch buffet. The last 100 stairs up to the road where the car was parked were the hardest,they were tall stairs and not one of us was not winded. The hardest part of the whole day were those stairs. One would think I would be used to it living on the 4th floor of a 1500"s Fiorentine walk up, but no, I wasn't! That said, can't wait to do it again, the rafting that is.

Pix below: Next up Indonesian cooking class

http://picasaweb.google.com/bandaidh...y=G2myzdmH3z8#


SuY Feb 26th, 2009 01:55 PM

laartista,

Thanks much for the contact details. Sounds like he is a gem!

Su

rhkkmk Feb 26th, 2009 06:33 PM

loving the report and thanks for the drivers name...i may use him if putu is busy on certain days...

barefootbeach Feb 21st, 2010 10:20 AM

Loving the report.....what happened to the Indonesian cooking class review? I need to know!

KirstenChuck Feb 27th, 2010 05:20 AM

This is a great trip report. I am planning a trip to Singapore in June 2011 with my kids. From Singapore, we'd like to travel to Bali for a week. Is the end of June an OK time to go to Bali or is it the rainy season? Any tips you have on the best time of year to go to Bali, would be helpful. If Bali is bad in June, is there any place else in SE Asia you would recommend? We need to go when the kids are out of school. Thanks.

Orlando_Vic Feb 27th, 2010 07:55 AM

Great trip report, laartista!

We will be in Ubud during the last few days of April and the first few of May. We're staying at the Komaneka at Monkey Forest. I would love to have your restaurant recommendations for Ubud.

_______________________________________________
Vic's travels: http://my.flightmemory.com/vogilvie

laartista Feb 27th, 2010 12:22 PM

Thanks Guys, totally forgot about this report,

Barefoot: I'll try to get the pix up from cooking class.

Since January 09 I have been back to Bali for 5 weeks in Nov/ Dec. 09 Stayed in Ubud the entire time except for a week on Gili T. I return back there around April 12 for another 6 weeks as now my business is based there in manufacturing.Soooo I'm alot more familiar with it there as I am going back more and more often. So happens a friend from college has been living in Ubud for 5 years after 2 years in Bangkok and 7 in Nepal, so she's been a wealth of info on things Bali to me.

Kristen: Have not been in June, will tell you November was ungodly hot, and my hotel in Ubud ( a small place ) has no generator. There are rolling blackouts, some towns worse than others. Parts of Ubud it's once every 10 days or so, other parts on the outskirts once a week usually MOnday or Tuesday evening from 7-10 pm. January was rainy but not as hot, so that's all I can really give you re: weather. I am no expert on Asia, just started traveling there within past 2 years.

Orlando- Your hotel has a good location, there are a ton of good places to eat, you can't really go wrong. If it's where I think it is on Monkey Forest, to your left out the hotel on MF Road is

Cinta ( really good, a bit more $$ in Bali world), also continuing to your left, across the street,

Cafe Wayan ( has cake & pie- yum and good desserts aside from the food, in case you get a craving)

Still walking that direction:

3 MOnkeys ( Yummy but again a bit more)

Art Cafe ( great for lunch) big portions, good prices, cool atmosphere plus way behind it is a great spa, can't remember the name but there is a healer masseur there, 30.00 for 2 hrs ( also more $$ than usual)

there's a new Cuban place just opened walking toward Haunaman (sp?) supposed to be good

Bali Budda- great for lunch

Laughing Budda Bar ( great tapas & pad thai) + free wifi

Greenhouse is good for a drink I don't care for their food

Barbuque: pretty good coconut crusted fish

Ari's Warung- good but more expensive

Best reflexology is TOUCH ( small place across from
Greenhouse on MF Road ) 6 US for 90 minutes

Anything else, if I know will be happy to answer
Happy & safe travels guys

laartista Feb 27th, 2010 12:26 PM

Oh and I have been to Mozaic for an expat dress up party, I'll post thepix, pretty funny, food was o.k, but not justified in price in my opinion, whole place was a bit too slick for me, most expats who live there just go for a drink or two tops. I know it's a popular place on this board so it's just again my opinion :)

Clifton Mar 11th, 2010 04:42 AM

La Artista, I just wanted to throw a thank you your way for this report. We were there, on a last minute trip, last week. It so happened that when the thread was topped recently, I was doing some last minute scrambling for info and got the pleasure of reading it. (oddly, almost the same thing happened back when you were writing your Morocco report awhile back and we were prepping to go there)

So, anyway, we had an idea where we'd spend a night in Ubud, away from where we were staying the rest of the week, but the Ubud night's accommodation didn't work out. After our driver exhausted us with some not so desirable alternatives, I remembered your report. And so the Adi Cottages worked out for us and our young daughter very well. What nice people. Thanks for that.

laartista Mar 11th, 2010 07:58 AM

Hey thanks Clifton!! Funny I remember that about Morocco!!! That is still my most favorite trip!!

I'm glad Adi worked out for you. It's not fancy but location is great, you get what you need and the staff is the best!! So you are very welcome :)


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