Bali Advice
 

I finally booked my ticket today for Bali - I am leaving on July 12th. I will be staying for 2 weeks in the town of Kuta. I will have access to a driver on occasion, however I am fine with using a taxi. I was hoping for as much Fodor info on Thailand as Bali, but apparently Thailand is the more popular destinaiton :) The activities I have in mind are:
Bike riding through villages & rice paddies, going to a dance (any suggestions on which one? ), Bedugal, Goa Gajah, Goa Lawah, Klungkung & Sangeh. I would like to avoid Nusa Dua. Has anyone experienced any fun/unusual activities on previous trips? Is snorkling very pretty? I can't seem to find much on Bali food - I assume lots of seafood & funky fruit? Lastly, any shopping 'treats' to look out for? FYI - I am a 50 year old woman who will be traveling mostly solo. Thanks for any advice, suggestions, etc!

I saw funeral parade on the street in Klungkung.
I am serious.

Hmmm....Is this common? How was it? This is my year for doing 50 new things in celebration of my birthday. That would be a first!

firstly given your age i am a bit surprised that you are centering your time in kuta.....its sort of the bar hang-out place for the 20/30 something crowd... are you aware of that?

you are in high season so there should be lots of people there..

you may ride a bike adajacent to a rice paddy, but most paths are very narrow through the paddies...i can't imagine riding a bike there, but....

spend some time in ubud...its a very nice town with lots of shopping and art, plus history and temples...

sanur is my town of preference....its not far from kuta...its a real town, not just a tourist mecca...lots of hotels at all price levels...

the food is fantastic...you will have no problems with it...its similar to thai in many ways, but yet distinctive...

there is plenty of italian food as well and other international delights...

check a little further on this site as tons has been written about bali....do you have a good guidebook, if not get one?

its very reasonable in comparison to many other asian places...food especially...

i find using a driver a few times is worthwhile taking me to other parts of the island....you will find these in a guidebook...

taxis are all over the place...they are quite reasonable...some are very local---too local....one i had in sanur had no floor and the heat from the muffler/heat exchanger nearly burned my feet....

don't get into old ones!!!

consider moving from kuta??

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, I am sort of stuck in Kuta. I will be staying at Poppies - my lodging is paid for, so I cannot be picky. I will be sure to bring a stack of books for night reading, I am not interested in the party/bar scene - been there, done that :) Are most places accesible for day trips?

You can go almost anywhere on Bali as a day trip. For days when you don't have a driver, just negotiate with a taxi or ask your hotel for someone you can pay by the day or half day. Taxis - in the sense of getting one to take you somewhere, dropping you off and taking another taxi back - aren't really practical in most areas.

Village life and village ceremonies are considered cultural attractions. Funerals are a big deal. We happened to be in Sanur when there was the cremation ceremony for a VIP - very interesting. They invite everyone to participate. Indeed, sometimes "professional mourners" are hired.

Kuta really is a bar/party scene. You'll want to take plenty of day trips.

There is lots of info here on Bali. Just do a search.

Well, at least there are several good restaurants around Poppies. There's Poppies itself, plus TJ's just a few steps away does passable Mexican food. As big and popular as it's gotten, I still like the food at Made's Warung. The soto madura last time was fantastic.

I've done a nice bike ride around the villages north of the Kuta area. It's easy and quite scenic. The Goa Lawah & Besakih trip is very good, even if it is a bit touristy. Snorkeling up around Tulamben is pretty good. I've dived there and the one snorkeler on the trip said it was good.

Poppies is legendary old " skool " Bali and Kuta. When there was not much in Kuta , and Seminyak and Legian were literally still rice paddies , Poppies was "the " place to eat and a good place to stay .First chilli crab I ate was there.

It is a lively area and not my first choice but you will be fine.Bars and a wonderful pizzeria in Poppies Lane 2 frequented by backpackers and surfers . If you are travelling by yourself you are more likely to get chatting and meet people in this part of town than anywhere else . Some dross might be there as well who you don't want to meet.

Ironically my favourite place to eat - Maccaroni - is in the midst of what everyone thinks is the worst place - Jalan Legian and opposite the bomb memorial .Wonderful Italian and Indonesian fusion food , cheap and served by charming local staff. Highly recommended .I second the Mades Warung recommendation especially the rijstafel , if it is on one night. Again a legendary venue .

You can walk up the beach to Seminyak and I also suggest you walk up Jalan Legian to get a feel for what is around .

In Ubud White water rafting is good along the Ayung River gorge . Years ago I did a lovely walk up there organised and run by my hotel ( The Chedi now Allila ) .If there is a cremation on the local travel agents will be advertising it .Last year around this time a huge one was held in Ubud for a member of the royal family .

As for dancing I like the Kecak and it is not too long !

Two good sites are www.balidiscovery.com and www.balieats.com

Thanks for all the help - everyone is so helpful on these forums. The Kecak dancing sounds great - I have heard some dances can take forever? As far as staying in Kuta, it sounds like that will be my 'hub' & I will need to plan most my outings elsewhere. Any suggestions on staying in another city for a night? More for a change in scenery & time to explore a different area. Not that I wish harm on anyone, but viewing a funeral now sounds interesting :)

Another question - are there places to go hiking? Is it safe as a single? Any special crafts to seek out?

We had a great day bike riding in Bali. The hotel, in a village 6 miles outside of Ubud drove us up to the area around the and dropped us off around the volcano (cant remember the name) and we road all the way back to Ubud through the villages and paddies and had a great time. Little traffic, spectacular views and really friendly people (bikes are a great way of getting in touch with the local people.
If you google Bali bike rides you will get loads of options

I have <i>very</i> fond memories of Poppies, it was the very first place I stayed on my very first trip to Bali in 1986. I have stayed a few times over the years, and the utterly charming garden setting never ceases to be magical for me. Every inch is filled with plants and flowers. While not luxurious, the rooms are perfectly adequate, and the outdoor bathrooms are a delight. Banana pancakes for breakfast on the little verandah of your cottage are just about the perfect way to start a day! I would agree that generally Kuta is quite congested and can be crazy, and the beach is not the enjoyable just because of the constant touts, but if you sit by the pool at Poppies and just go to the beach for sunset (a nightly must), then it can be quite pleasant. As noted above, there are many good restaurants in Kuta, including Poppies restaurant itself, which is across the street from the hotel. (I assume you are staying in the main hotel.) It also has excellent shopping, all the best (and in some cases worst) of Bali can be found there.

In addition to being a center for music and dance, Bali is known for its carving, in wood and stone, and also painting. Carved masks and other wooden carvings are on offer all over the islands. Musical instruments can make nice souvenirs if you don’t find artwork to be to your taste, as are there lovely carved wooden door and window frames (hard to bring home, although they can be taken apart). They are also known for the silver jewelry, which tends to be rather ornate. John Hardy has his main workshop in Bali (but I don’t think his prices are any cheaper!)

It will be a bit difficult to do rice paddies bike rides and walks in Kuta, as it is so large and congested, the ideas for day trips are fine noted above are fine; but I want to also say that if you have no choice but to stay in Kuta, that you spend time IN Kuta exploring it and relaxing. The purpose of Bali, IMO, is to discover its art, culture and peace and I am sure that you can do that even within Kuta or quite close to it. I would hate to think of you going out on day trips every day into the countryside to “find relaxation” -- which could entail an hour or more each way in a car -- when art galleries, cooking classes, surfing lessons, beach massages, local temples (and their attendant festivals) can all be found in Kuta as well. I think even just heading to Legian next door you will find a quieter pace and this may be more walkable/bikeable. Also, if you get up to Seminyak, which is just north of Legian, and then just inland a bit to places like Kerobokan, you will find rice paddies there (not quite the stacked hillside ones you can see inland, but still pretty). Have lunch at one of the beachside restaurants at the Oberoi or the Legian hotel and enjoy the ambience (or try Ku De Ta or other restaurants). So don’t overlook your own doorstep. (I think you may find the best local spas are in Seminyak, which is the upscale area, try a place like Bodyworks.) As you have indicated that you are staying with relatives, then use them shamelessly to get you to local events and take their advice on local sights, as people on the ground generally have the best knowledge.

For walks, I mostly know the Ubud area, which has many excellent walks/hikes, many of which I have done on my own. I personally think it’s quite safe, and you never are really too far from a village or house. There is an excellent map called the <i>Bali Pathfinder</i> which has walking trails and bike paths in the Ubud area. Perhaps there is a Kuta or Legian version. (The Pathfinder includes street maps of Kuta and other towns, but not walking trails.)

The whitewater rafting mentioned above is quite fun, although I have to say personally on your own you may not find it quite as enjoyable. You might also look into organized day hiking or bike trips where you could join a group, try something like Sobek at http://www.balisobek.com/
(Sobek does a great rafting trip as well.)

I would just rent a bike for the whole 2 weeks and keep it at the hotel and use it as a form of local transport to get around town and up to Legian, etc. I would also say to bike in the Nusa Dua area, although it’s a bit hilly, but certainly pretty and less congested than Kuta. Once you are out of the main strip of tourist hotels, it is not that populated. You could rent at one of the tourist hotels or a stand nearby, and then head further into the peninsula like to the temple at Ulu Watu. If you do day trips for biking in places further out, like Ubud, you can rent bikes when you get there for the day.

As you don’t seem to be aware of Kuta’s reputation as a bar scene, nor of the funeral rites which are a topic included in virtually every guidebook, it appears to me that you do not have a guidebook. At the very least, get the Lonely Planet, which covers Kuta quite well. It also describes culture and customs. They are also lots of good guidebooks on Bali which can really enrich your experience, IMO.

For an overnight, Ubud is certainly a center for art and dance and is a good choice, lots of rice paddies and walking/biking opportunities as well. Or go along the north east coast for good snorkeling, or even to the much less developed north coast. A guidebook will help focus you ideas for one night.

good choice with poppies...so your plan turns out to be a good one...use it as a base and move along outside...

inside and outside of towns is good hiking, but i don't think anyone should hike alone any place in the world....

consider ubud for a one or two niter for a change of scene...

consider hiring putu to take you around.. many fodorites have used him in the past....just look for him on this forum for more info..

Cicerone, thank you for the detailed answer. Years ago you I learned so much from you for our trip to Hong Kong - we had a fabulous time. I do have a guidebooks ordered on Amazon - although I feel I have a guidebook here :)

Another question - In Thailand we were encouraged to use our ATM or bring newer twenty or hundred dollar bills. Is this the same in Bali? I tend to be a cash only person & want to know about getting the newer bills at my bank?

ATM's are plentiful especially in Kuta. One or more in Jalan Legian attached to a bank . If using money changers by chance use reputable ' walk in off the street 'specific changers as they will not try to rip you off. There ought be no commission generally .A saving if your bank charges for each withdrawal from an ATM as most do . If using a changer and one in a shop or the like because of higher rates offered watch closely , don't let them distract you whilst counting out the $ and double count it .

Plenty of changers just outside customs to get enough rupiah to tide you over. Some changers give a higher rate for a 50 or 100 as against a 10 or 20 dollar bill .No need to change a lot at the airport - 20 or 30 ample .

In case you have no car pickup there is a transport desk to the right of the customs hall exit where you pay in advance for a car and driver to Kuta. Cheap , easy and reliable .

Are you a regular bicyclist in high heat and humidity ? I start dripping the moment I get off the plane .If not I think the metered air conditioned taxis are a godsend and cheap and remember driving is hazardous so bicycling in town is even moreso .Use a helmet if you do . Many hire motorcycles . Do be careful .I have a young family member who was an expatliving in Bali and he nearly died and was medi-vaced to Singapore after riding a bike and being in an accident.

Hiring a guide like Putu is probably a good thing to do on day 2 or 3 for a day to see things with help. Well worthwhile .And you get to see and soak it all in and really enjoy the experience as against riding with your heart in your mouth the whole time .

And as per Cicerone recommending exploring locally I will dig out ( if you want it ) the name of a wonderful Warung in Kerobokan in a street oppposite the prison with a famous local mens and womens fashion designer clearance shop on the corner overlooking the rice paddies , which is French owned serving great local and French food and which is cheapish.Duck and peach sausages followed by the best sorbet since the Ile St Louis - I kid you not .

Happily, you will more variety than "seafood and funky fruit."
I recommend looking for:
Bebek Betutu or Betutu Bebek, duck roasted with herbs and spices and wrapped with banana leaves.
If you like pork, there is Guling Celeng, also known as Babi Guling. This is suckling pig roasted seasoned with spices and spit-roasted over charcoal or burning coconut husks.
Eat the above with a rice dish, like Nasi Goreng (fried rice) or Nasi Kuning (rice steamed with coconut milk, tumeric, and lemon grass). Plain steamed white rice is called Nasi Putih.
For a lighter main, you can order Satay, or Sate, usually small pieces of marinated meat on skewers and served with a peanut dipping sauce. In Bali, they also offer Sate Lilit, which is seasoned chopped seafood or poultry missed with coconut and molded around a lemongrass stalk.
Try a typical snack/salad like Rujak, a vegetable and fruit dish with spicy hot, sweet, and sour sauce (it contains tamarind, palm sugar, shrimp paste, and chilies). Or the mixed vegetable salad, Gado Gado, served with a peanut dressing.
My favorite Balinese vegetable dish is Lawar. It is often made with green beans or cassava/tapioca leaves, but you can also find it made with fiddlehead fern tips.
For dessert, you can have fried bananas, which are popular throughout Indonesia, or try black rice pudding, called Bubuh Injin, black rice cooked with coconut milk and palm sugar.
As for funky fruits—if they are in season, try mangosteens.
The fish preparation, Otak Otak--a banana leaf packet with a filling of fish pieces seasoned with coconut milk, lime juice and spices, first steamed then barbecued--is not specifically a Balinese dish (it is more common to other parts of Indonesia and Malaysia), nonetheless, you’ll probably be able to try it in Bali.
There are loads of traditional Balinese dance and gamelan performances for tourists. Yes, this is a must-do. Bali is known for its arts. The performers are exceptionally skilled. It is likely you can attend a performance featuring excerpts from several different types of dances. I also recommend attending a performance of Kecak, the Monkey Chant.
There are so many temple festivals in Bali—try attending one. You might check this schedule of temple festivals:
http://www.balistarisland.com/Bali-I...emony2009.html

atm's---the problem with atm's in bali is that they do not allow you to withdraw very much....like about $40 at a time....so i do multiple transactions....this is only good if your bank does not charge a fee however...

they are located in all areas except way in the country of course

I am now hungry, informed & ready to explore Bali - Thanks everyone!

For the money changers...bring crisp, clean 100 dollar bills. No tears, marks, or too much wear. Ask your bank on Monday to go through their 100's and get you the best ones. In the past I believe there was one year of the bill that was hard to cash...1996 or 2001, I forget. But, you will get the best rate for a 100. COUNT OUT YOUR RUPIAH before you leave the money changer...right in front of them. Eat black rice pudding with coconut milk. Selamat Jalan!