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Old Jan 17th, 2007, 03:54 AM
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Back from Thailand, Laos & Cambodia

Just back from a month-long trip with lots to report. Here's a preliminary run-down of where we went, if anyone is looking for more specific info just holler. Will be writing a more formal travelogue once the jet-lag subsides

3 days: Bangkok. Stayed at the Old Bangkok Inn (highly recommended) and toured the city Tong (also highly recommended). The puppet show at the Joe Louis Theater in the Suan Lim night bazaar was an expected treat.

4 days: Chiang Mai. Baan Orapin (lovely, but I might try another place if I were to return) Disappointing trek with Trekking Alternatives. In general, underwhelmed by our CM experience.

2 days: Ban Thaton, Thailand. We stayed at the Maekok Resort and loved every minute. Beautiful area, lots to do and explore. We wished we had headed here days earlier.

Huay Xai, Thailand to Luang Prabang, Laos. Stayed overnight in Huay Xai at the Aramid Bungalows. Amazing staff, excellent dinner - all for $9! We rode the Naga of Mekong to Luang Prabang - slow boat in one day with food/drinks and spectacular scenery. A trip highlight.

6 days: Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw, Laos. We were surprised by Luang Prabang - feels like a "mini-Europe". Hope the trendy coffeshops and high-priced hotels are all good for Luang Prabang. Lots of great food.

Nong Khiaw was a highlight and we would have liked to explore more of the north, which fit closer to our Laos visions. memorable but expensive stay at Chan-a-Mar bungalow. Enjoyed exploring the war caves and soaking up the atmosphere. Travelling on the Nam Ou river was unbelievable - hope to kayak it someday!

4 days: Siem Reap. Stayed at the Villa Siem Reap and Bopha Angkor. Loved them both, but the pool at the Bopha really won my heart. Great food too - some of our best meals. Also recommend Khmer Kitchen. mmmm. Usual sightseeing - temple highlights were Beng Meala (closer to what we had expected from Ta Prohm) and Bantey Srei. Well worth the travel time.

3 days: Khao Sok National Park (Phang Nga province, southern Thailand) wow, wow, wow. We did a three day kayak tour through Paddle Asia and had the time of our lives. Breathtaking limestone karst scenery, tons of wildlife (birds, gibbons, etc.) and did some amazing hikes and cave explorations.

4 days: Khao Lak, Thailand. Stayed at the Sarojin and were underwhelmed. Not worth the money and ended up having all of our meals steps away from the resort at a few amazing beach-side restaurants (for a tenth of the price) Loved the beach, but would stay next door at the White Sand bungalow next time and save my money.

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Old Jan 17th, 2007, 04:53 AM
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Z-thanks for the prompt report. Glad you had a wonderful time. Look forward to your more extensive travelogue. Particularly interested in your Laos time. Penalty avoided.
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Old Jan 17th, 2007, 05:03 AM
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Thanks - sounds like a great trip. Sad to hear LP felt like Europe. Very interested to hear more about Khao Sok.
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Old Jan 17th, 2007, 06:46 AM
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thanks for the report...still also trying to figure out how LP resembles europe??

looking forward to the expanded report..
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Old Jan 17th, 2007, 07:06 AM
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You had a great time! Great mix of destinations. Glad you enjoyed Khao Sok as I have mentioned it quite a lot and it is easier to get to than people think.
Sarojin - funny how it seems to win award after award(!) - I always remember a few years back some major travel magazine giving a high award to a resort off Phuket when the place had not even been finished being built!!
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Old Jan 17th, 2007, 08:21 AM
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Gpa: We really enjoyed our time in Laos, and I think it will be place we'll return to someday - especially to explore the northern parts.

Rhkkmk: For us, LP felt very European mainly due to the presence of several very hip/trendy cafes (with the pricey lattes to go with them), the very westernized menus and the many high-priced boutique hotels popping up. I think we had expected something far less developed and rougher travelling. Am happy that LP is prospering, but from talking with some locals, seems that most of the financial benefits are going to Western investors/owners with many fearing that such rapid changes may endanger the cultural heritage there. The guidebook descriptions of LP just didn't match the reality for us - but I'll add that we still really, really enjoyed it there and would highly recommend it to anyone.

thursdaysd: We can't rave enough about Khao Sok park. PaddleAsia was a great company to go through - even though it was a pricey adventure. We stayed at the park's floating bungalows which were fun (although nighttime trips to the bathroom were an adventure by themselves) A wonderful place to explore and one that I would definintely go back to.
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Old Jan 17th, 2007, 11:43 AM
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So glad that you enjoyed Thaton. It is such a relaxing town after Chiang Mai and there is plenty to do as you discovered or you can just sit and watch the river traffic go by. Most people never stay here and just pass by on their boat ride to/from Chiang Rai.
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Old Jan 17th, 2007, 12:11 PM
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Scotters - Our stay in Thaton is completely thanks to a Fodorites suggestion (can't remember who, but thank you!) We would have never discovered it otherwise. Beautiful riverside location - stunning in the mornings when the mist is lifting off the water. We took a lovely boat ride to the Burmese border, explored the mountain-top chedis and Buddhas and generally enjoyed the laid back atmosphere. Another place we've added to our "we want to come back here" list
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Old Feb 1st, 2007, 12:30 AM
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Thanks so much for the trip report. It sounded great. We meet a couple at the Pansea in L.P. and ended up with them at most of our destinations.

The one experience that they were so enthusthic about was the 2 day one night boat trip from Thailand to L.P., But they could not remember the name of the boat. I read your report and Volia. We would like to go back to laos (the north and south) so I appreciate all the information you provided.

Did you find that the boat trip from Thailand to L.P.
and then again to Chan a Mar was a lot of time on the water? Or was the scenery quite different?
Thanks
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Old Feb 21st, 2007, 10:21 AM
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Sallyho, Just to clarify, our trip from Thailand to Luang Prabang was ONE day, not the standard overnight trip. This option is fairly new, and the Naga of Mekong is the only boat I know of offering this.

The scenery up the Nam Ou was completely different and didn't feel at all repetitive after the Mekong trip. Two very different and worthwhile experiences!
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Old Mar 24th, 2007, 02:29 PM
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bookmarking
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Old Jun 5th, 2007, 10:36 AM
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zoom sounds like you had a great trip. How did you travel between CM Ban Thaton & Huay Xai?
Thanks J
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 03:26 PM
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Hi Jules - We hired a car/driver to go between Ban Thaton and Huay Xai (we arranged this through the Mekong River Resort - a highly recommended place to stay) The drive took about three hours and was relaxing and scenic.
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 03:27 PM
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correction - not the Mekong River Resort, rather the Maekok River Resort! We really loved it there, despite my momentary brain lapse!
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 03:35 PM
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Hi zoo, thanks for that. Some destinations i haven't heard of there so now i'm going to look them up
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Old Jun 18th, 2007, 07:04 PM
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Great JBR, isnt Khao Sok amazing! We did it with Limestone Lake Tours, which was more cost effective, but your tour sounds great and I will look into it for next time!

A couple of questions:

Do you have a link for Aramid Bungalows? And also for the transport you used for the river trip? Was it a speedboat or a slowboat? I have heard the speedboats are dangerous but I would prefer to cut a day of travelling if possible?

Thanks heaps
Reet
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Old Jun 20th, 2007, 07:43 AM
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Thanks for this trip report Zoom. Can you please expand on your Chiang Mai/Baan Orapin experience? I am staying there in July for the same amount of time you are and I am wondering why you might choose another place if your return.

Thanks!
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Old Jun 22nd, 2007, 05:31 AM
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Reet - I don't have a link for Aramid, their address is listed through Lonely Planet I believe and you can just check in upon arrival. Seems that most of the accommodations in Huay Xai work the same way. The boat we took wasn't a slow boat and wasn't a speed boat. It was the Naga of Mekong - a souped up slow boat that leaves earlier than most, allowing for a one-day trip to Luang Prabang. We paid about $70 per person for the trip, but was well worth it for us.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2007, 05:33 AM
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Hoodlims - We liked the Baan Orapin, but just weren't completely "wowed" by our experience (we stayed in their separate family house rather than a standard room, which might account for our experience) The location is lovely, staff very helpful and the atmosphere is great - so don't let my ho-hum review put you off of them! If you have any other CM questions, just let me know!
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