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Taiwan was colorful.
Fukuoka airport is so convenient, close in so that a taxi transfer is at the price I want. Loved the 753 children Wonderful Hakata doru. I have a collection. Find good food in Fukuoaka (mentaiko, ramen)? Maybe I forgot to recommend Chikae Restaurant to you |
Originally Posted by mrwunrfl
(Post 17642346)
Taiwan was colorful.
Fukuoka airport is so convenient, close in so that a taxi transfer is at the price I want. Loved the 753 children Wonderful Hakata doru. I have a collection. Find good food in Fukuoaka (mentaiko, ramen)? Maybe I forgot to recommend Chikae Restaurant to you The folklore museum was a small gem! Taiwan was a wonderful surprise. We were very lucky in Tainan, too, where we caught some of the amazing anniversary celebrations. tripplanner, I guess I’ll have to wait to follow your trip and see if we can manage a 3rd visit to Japan! |
Happy to find you have continued your report for us to enjoy! Looking forward to more.
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I enjoyed your last couple days in Taiwan especially the night market. Love the food photos!
We always take a taxi from airports, train stations and bus stations to our hotels. I have no desire to take public transportation with our luggage. I need some pampering. :) And I am enjoying the beginning of your second Japan trip. Do you think you were underwhelmed at first because you were tired from the heat and humidity of Taiwan? But so glad that you ended up thoroughly enjoying this second trip. Still not sure if we will make it to Japan so I enjoy reading your report and seeing your photos. |
francebound, thank you! I'm glad to know you're still following!
<<And I am enjoying the beginning of your second Japan trip. Do you think you were underwhelmed at first because you were tired from the heat and humidity of Taiwan? But so glad that you ended up thoroughly enjoying this second trip. Still not sure if we will make it to Japan so I enjoy reading your report and seeing your photos.>> KarenWoo, we had such a fabulous time on our first trip and I had such a hard time developing an itinerary for this trip. I had several plans that we almost did and I probably second-guessed myself waaay too much! We had a vision of what "Japan" is, with its wonderful aesthetic, and, at first, I wasn't quite "feeling" the Japan I had experienced the year before. Kyushu is more relaxed and more outdoorsy, and it was a different vibe from the prior year's trip. But it really unfolded nicely and we ended up loving our time there, culminating in the trip to Yakushima, which was truly a magical stop. |
Japan Journey/Kyushu
Mt. Aso exploration Mt. Aso, an active volcano region, is right next to Kurokawa Onsen and I thought it would be a shame not to at least view it. I found a wonderful guide, Max Wall, a lovely Swedish man who is married to a Japanese woman. He lives in the area and was able to drive us around the volcano (there are actually several - according to Max, there isn’t just just “one” Mt. Aso) and view the caldera, the flat area in the center. We really lucked out - the day was gorgeous, and such a change from the cloudy and rainy weather. Of course, we were not alone and the traffic was some of the busiest our guide had ever seen! Add that to the fact that it was a holiday weekend, and you can understand why there was bumper to bumper traffic at times! Still it was a fantastic day and wonderful to see the area! Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine We stopped at the Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine, an atmospheric shrine up 260 stone steps with 100 moss-covered stone lanterns on both sides. The shrine is the setting for a popular manga and anime Hotarubi no Mori e. It was a gorgeous setting and the timing couldn’t have been better. The light filtering through the trees added to the already atmospheric sight. We then had a wonderful meal at Takamori Dengaku Hozinkai, a charming restaurant over 100 years old, now run by the 3rd generation of a warm and welcoming family. Dengaku is the process of grilling food on skewers in an hearth - and that is what you come to this restaurant for. It was a fun place and very busy with locals having a Sunday afternoon meal as well as a few foreigners who’d read about the place. Along the way, we stopped at a farmstand. I just loved the roof, made out of susuki grass, the tall grass with a silver or golden feathery top. It was solid as could be and elegant to see. And the baskets, so beautiful. The farm stands have produce that are left by local farmers, purchased on an honor system, with a little box to collect the money. One of the attractions of visiting Kurokawa Onsen is to be able to visit other ryokans and experience their onsens. I had been torn between spending the day exploring Aso or visiting the ryokans, so I thought we’d get a taste after our tour with Max. We drove into town, but it was so crowded that we gave up. I was so glad we spent the day with Max exploring the region. Again, this was a holiday weekend so I imagine this level of crowding is very unusual. |
Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...00fcd2c65.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bedd88fa8.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1d818f1a.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d48e588a1.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e89d0af0e.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18d76b36c.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...356227ae9.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...055040e53.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41c37c5cd.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61b93df26.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c2a956d24.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc618afff.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42a37d44a.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49d3e1c80.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f85345a46.jpeg If ever there was a place with spirits floating in the air, this is it. It was such a remarkable place, and the light coming through was simply out of this world. |
Takamori Dengaku Hozinkai (a Dengaku restaurant)
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ab349c85.jpeg Explaining how to set up the grill with the skewers https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91b3d156f.jpeg Max explaining the process to us https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1da278cde9.jpg We're a bit stunned by the whole experience! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37b881996a.jpg The skewers https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8e3b641f0.jpeg The skewers https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a51621b9b.jpeg On the road again - the farmsteads https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23986d2bc.jpeg The baskets - so beautiful! |
Japan Journeys/Yamamizuki Ryokan
Dinner #2 The presentation is all. And it tasted good, too. We had a very charming hostess, Norika, serving us this evening, too. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a2cbd9276.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...94c34e09d.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90d8acdd4.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d95846dd2.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c6383059.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...705668df9.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...94aa25267.jpeg Cute, aren't they? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0461f50a1.jpeg |
the leaves!!!!
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Completely stunning presentation. Now just have to figure out which components can be eaten.....
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adlmllr - I know, the leaves are beautiful! but the whole presentation, wow!
and shelemm, I didn't know if I should actually eat anything, it was all so beautifully done!! |
Japan Journey, continued
Yamamizuki morning and on our way to Kumamoto We left our charming ryokan with a bit of a sadness (though there are only so many kaiseki meals one can eat!) and traveled by bus to Kumamoto. The Aso countryside was so beautiful to see - grab shots through the window don’t do it justice, but I hope it gives you a little bit of the flavor. Lush green fields surrounded by hills (or are they mountains or volcanoes?) and a relaxed feeling to the region. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b4eb6309.jpeg Zen morning https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b77243609.jpeg Morning at the ryokan through our window https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3707cb30e.jpeg Morning light https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ee4a8d8d9.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f5c0bf0f3.jpeg And even the breakfasts can be overwhelming! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0a12d5bd6.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18646ee0e.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca1979d1f.jpeg Last walk to the onsen https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2f261393.jpeg Family visit |
Japan Journey, continued...
On our way to Kumamoto https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cee6e9ac8.jpeg Leaving Yamamizuki https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a0233a6ca.jpeg On the bus https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f02c8021.jpeg On the bus https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...533ec6d89.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dbfb4dc32.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d3c27df9c.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f238b62a6.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c97f783c5.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a7869d15a.jpeg |
>> bus to Kumamoto
Yes, quite scenic. Many people on the bus? |
Originally Posted by mrwunrfl
(Post 17643051)
>> bus to Kumamoto
Yes, quite scenic. Many people on the bus? |
Yamamizuki - what a gorgeous setting!
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Originally Posted by xyz99
(Post 17643206)
Yamamizuki - what a gorgeous setting!
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>> Yarimikan, in Kurokawa Onsen! It gets confusing!
apparently so |
Originally Posted by mrwunrfl
(Post 17643251)
>> Yarimikan, in Kurokawa Onsen! It gets confusing!
apparently so Yup, definitely confusing! |
Japan Journey/KumamotoKumamoto
When I first planned the trip, I thought we’d stay here for 3 nights, but I was advised by someone who lives there that there really isn’t enough to do in that amount of time. 2 nights turned out to be just right. The city is a large train hub which made it good for us to stop here. It wasn’t my favorite stop, but we enjoyed it nonetheless. We stayed at Hotel Nikko Kumamoto with a fantastic view of the castle. The room was comfortable and service was very good, with a small breakfast room with a decent buffet. It’s well-regarded and very convenient. When we arrived by bus, I wasn’t sure where we were supposed to get off - but all of a sudden, there it was, and the bus stopped right by the entrance! A Guide and a Garden We met up with Tai, a volunteer guide. Japan has a wonderful system of volunteer guides in many of the cities through different organizations. Most of them are retirees. Tai was a civil servant and, at 83, is the oldest guide we’ve met so far! He had a great deal of enthusiasm for sharing his city. We visited the Suizenji Jojuen, the traditional Japanese garden begun in 1632 by the local lord. It’s a lovely garden and the pond is fed by spring water from Mt. Aso. We passed a small antique shop just outside the entrance to the garden, where I saw a wonderful collection of Kokeshi dolls (a traditional toy, though not typical of Kyushu). Of course, I had to get one (and only one). I bought the smallest one sitting in the front as it was the lightest to carry. Kumamoto castle Constructed in 1607, Kumamoto castle was once a premier castle along with Matsumoto and Himeji, with large castle grounds and a variety of buildings, although it had undergone many restorations over the the years and few, if any, buildings remain intact. In 2016, the castle suffered significant damage due to a major earthquake, and only reopened to the public in 2021 for visits. It’s expected to take 28 years to fully restore the castle. We enjoyed our walk with Tai, and his knowledge and passion made the experience more meaningful. He talked about how he hadn’t had a particular interest in the castle until he started volunteering, but it became important for him to convey the history to visitors. And so he learned. |
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Suizenji Jojuen
A small but lovely park https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0103eacec.jpeg Kumamoto, Kumamoto's famous mascot at the entrance to the garden https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a007f7e5b.jpeg The Kokeshi dolls - I bought the smallest one here. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6af75d74.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e58c07b3a.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d9b320776.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...602136158.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ddf3fde6.jpeg |
Kumamoto Castle
Kumamoto Castle suffered serious damage in the earthquakes of 2016. Many roof tiles fell, foundations were damaged, walls crumbled and entire structures collapsed. Five years later, in 2021, the interior of the castle's main keep was reopened to the public, but several other parts of the grounds, including the castle palace, remain off-limit. Major repair works are expected to continue on the castle grounds until around 2042. We really enjoyed our time with Tai, whose energy was impressive! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4f4b272d.jpeg on our way by tram! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55e629bae.jpeg Kato Kiyomasa, builder of the castle. He’s sitting on a tiger, dressed in battle armor and wearing a nagaeboshi helmet. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3a0792ad.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...155abc77a.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...20da7f90f.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4115af33a.jpeg Tai the tour guide! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ab216d89.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28a005436.jpeg Mini-shrine! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f92793aa3.jpeg The interior of the castle is devoted to a range of historic exhibitions, but I particularly liked these illustrations of folk tales https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3536a82da.jpeg The interior of the castle is devoted to a range of historic exhibitions, but I particularly liked these illustrations of folk tales https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8aab92020.jpeg The interior of the castle is devoted to a range of historic exhibitions, but I particularly liked these illustrations of folk tales https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6630b7300.jpeg View from the castle https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13ee19cc8.jpeg View from the castle https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...85f8dc96d.jpeg |
That's a really tall and pointy helmet! I guess they didn't have to worry about running under any power lines.... but with tree branches you'd have to be really careful.
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Great photos. That garden was closed when I was there. Pretty sure I stayed at the same hotel. Got a good walk-up rate and checked in by delightful and pretty Sayuri.
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I’ll do my best to return to this in a month or so when I’ve recuperated from my surgery!
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All the best to your surgery and have a speedy recovery.
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Good luck and hope all goes well for your surgery. You can dream about your next adventure as you recuperate!
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Thanks, all! I’ll get back to you when I can! It’ll be a while, but I won’t forget!
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Hi progol
Did you try the onsen at Yamamizuki? Is that the place with hot spring bathing in the stream? I just a booked a return stay at Miyama Sansou, a sister property next to Yamamizuki. Am thinking about going there for a soak before or after I check out of Miyama Sansou. I think I would stay at both but it seems that Yamamizuki doesn't accept solo guests. Am I correct to assume the dinner was amazing. Am toying with the idea of just booking for two. Given/assuming that the difference a solo stay and a couple stay is the cost of the meals for the second person maybe I would just ask for seconds of the stuff I like most. I just took a look and Yamamizuki won't book for one guest. Looks like the rooms had futons. At Miyama Sansou I saw that the room I booked solo would be 20% more for two. Yeah, it took me all that to realize that I sh/could just stay there for two nights at the solo rate and sleep in the same bed. Looks like it has both an indoor and outdoor private bath. |
Hi, mrwunrfl,
I’m not sure I understand your question about the bathing. The baths were certainly outdoors beside the hot springs that I assume are fed by them but we didn’t go directly into the stream. They were similar to the ones in Yarimikan that we went to last year. There are also indoor baths. Oh, and yes, the dinners were wonderful! Quite the experience! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cea035daa.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52f05da2f.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f1faa6b6.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...323d879c3.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56065f257.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f85ef7cfe.jpeg |
Great fotos. Is that horsu shown in the 4th photo or maybe it is one of the sashimi bits? That is Kumamoto-ken.
I thought the Yama Mizuki hot spring and bath was in the stream. But they are next to a stream, not in it. Maybe these photos look familiar to you: Hot Springs|Kurokawa Onsen Ryokan Mt. Mizuki Official Site [Aso, Kumamoto] Got there by clicking around the site for Miyama Sanso (which is somehow aka Fukuyama Sanso). Therefore, while "mountain dogwood" is the literal translation, "a symbol that cherishes nature and comfort" effectively conveys the spirit and meaning behind the name Yamamizuki in the context of the ryokan. Therefore, Miyama Sanso can be understood as:
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Hi, mrwunrfl,
My apologies for the delay in responding! We were in the middle of visiting family and have just gotten back home (can relax a bit now!). I don't believe we had any horse at the ryokan, though I can't tell you for sure! But I can upload the menu! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4f97c9908.jpg Thank you for the link to the Kurokawa Onsen site! Yes, I definitely recognized the women's open air bath and the women's indoor bath, both of which I happily immersed myself in!! The walk along the path to the outdoor bath was more of a run during the cool mornings! And I was surprised how far from the showers the actual onset was! Sigh, a wonderful memory. https://yamamizuki.com/spa/ |
Thanks! Google sez:
Higo beef is a local specialty beef from the Kumamoto area of Japan, known for its low-fat content and being a local specialty. It is a strain of Japanese Brown cattle, developed in Kumamoto by crossbreeding with Korean, Simmental, and Devon cattle. Here is the menu translation followed by a photo I saw on yahoo this morning. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...95245f2772.jpg no horsu https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90b07ae511.jpg random photo |
mrw, Basashi is usually served raw. We had it on two occasions and one of them was in Sanga ryokan in Kurokawa, I guess a specialty in the Kumamoto area. The other ryokan we were served that was Osenkaku in the mountains. They also served bear meat at Osenkaku. Linda did not eat the meats on that stay lol.
Aloha! |
It is a specialty in Kumamoto-ken. Had some in a hotel ryokan Aso years ago. Kind of like fugu in that there is not much going for it beyond the curiosity factor. Bear might at least have a memorable flavor, like it or not? Sanga looked nice (from your link in other thread). I will return to Miyama Sanso in K.O. about a week before you go back to Sanga.
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