Am I too late for Bhutan?
 

I've been wanting for go to Bhutan for at least 10 years. Now that we're planning a trip to India for late '07 my husband will consider flying from Delhi to Paro and spending a week in Bhutan to keep his wife happy.
Everyone I've talked to in the past few years says Bhutan is changing drastically because of increased tourism, the presence of the likes of an Aman hotel, etc.
Any opinions about whether Bhutan at present is still holding on to its cultural essence despite exposure to the West? If so, any ways to see the main sights but keep away from hordes of tourists? any recommended itineraries?

Look at the tourist arrival numbers, they are still very low. Reality versus perception is very different. I have not been back to Bhutan since the Amans were built, but I would not say that the arrival of the Amans has brought hordes of tourists, if anything they bring educated tourists who respect local culture and don't demand bannana pancakes and MTV in the local bar...The Amans have raised average hotel rates and if anything will keep people out as the country becomes more expensive (which may have been the government's plan in letting them in, perhaps they want to become the St Barts of Asia.) Bhutan still keeps a very tight lid on their arrivals, I don't think you will find it much changed. As national dress is still required by law (which I find insane as a way to enforce a culture), it will still also appear unchanged. Your concerns would say to me that you should go sooner rather than later if anything.

What no one seems to be aware of is that the visa rules and minimum spend rules do NOT apply to Indian nationals, yet you do not see hordes of the rich Indians (and there are literally millions of them) descending on Bhutan. Really, this concept that Bhutan is being "spoiled" is just so laughable, spoiled for what? Your photos and dinner party stories?!

If you want to avoid big numbers of tourists, then avoid the festivals, however those are the most interesting times. Again, numbers are relative.

No I don't think you're too late. I was there less than 2 years ago. The first Aman was already built and there were not that many tourists. Suspect their culture will remain intact for many years to come. As Cicerone mentioned, the law decrees the Bhutanese wear their traditional clothes when they go to work, visit government offices etc. They also have to build traditional houses and I cannot imagine the Bhutanese men would ever stop indulging in archery.

thanks for your reassurance. Any thoughts about what's a sufficient length of time there?

Depends on how much treking, if any, you want to do. I would say 10 days, but you would probably be fine with 7, but this would mean cutting out some places, and/or you may feel rushed as some of the drives are long and can be tiring and you may then only be in a place for one night and have to hit the road again for another long drive. (There are no straight roads in Bhutan, and I used to live in Switzerland...). Also, if you are coming from a long distance, you may want a longer trip just to justify the long flight and the fact that you are probably not going to go back again.