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Advice on Eating in India

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Old Feb 2nd, 2005, 12:39 PM
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Advice on Eating in India

Am embarking on a longed-for first trip to India in mid-February (probably too much running around, three weeks of sightseeing in Delhi, Agra, Bhophal, Aurangabad, etc.) All deluxe hotels, private cars/guides, first class trains -- which, I gather, still leaves plenty of room for the myriad inconveniences Indian travel seems to involve. My question is this. I've had conflicting advice from experienced India hands on safety in dining. Everyone advises against the expected: water, ice, uncooked fruit, street food. But some people recommend only hotel dining, while Fodor's guide says tourists are often safer at local restaurants, where food is purchased and prepared daily; large hotels, they say, buy in bulk and have frequent power brownouts that could lead to refrigeration issues. My travel agent says no seafood, yet Fodor's recommends many seafood dishes in their restaurant reviews. Dairy, or no dairy? Any opinions about how to minimize days spend nursing Delhi belly while sightseeing?
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Old Feb 2nd, 2005, 01:05 PM
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While we just travelled in the Rajasthan area of India plus Agra and Varanasi a few months ago, this is how we ate and avoided very little stomach upsets...No, dairy, except when boiled (milk), no raw veggies, absolutely no water except bottled (that included no ice cubes or brushing teeth), only fruit you can peel..We ate at several restaurants, also in hotels..Drank plenty of Chai on the streets, but did not eat street food..I did suffer from a sinus infection and 1 day dehydration, but stomach seemed to be okay...I think it is better off to eat carefully so you don't wreck your long awaited trip to India..We ate in very small restaurants in Delhi in which the meal was $3.00 Canadian and was excellent!! We did not do first class hotels, but stayed in 2* hotels plus heritage hotels (palaces, etc)..I don't believe we ate any seafood at all, if I remember correctly, mosty vegetarian..Food is delicious..I had myself all paranoid about everything prior to leaving for India and ended up having the greatest experience of my life..Use common sense and I am sure you will have no problems..If your instinct tells you that you shouldn't eat something, then don't...Have a great time, i hope to go back again in a few years...P.S. The traffic is unreal and the driving is treacherous...that you will find out when you get there..Be prepared for alot of near misses!! And lastly, there are cows roming around everywhere!! Have a great time...

Tracy
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Old Feb 2nd, 2005, 02:42 PM
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"I had myself all paranoid about everything prior to leaving for India and ended up having the greatest experience of my life."

Tracy, you took the words right out of my mouth. With hindsight, the first thing I would say to Brooklynboy is to relax. Thousands of tourists go to India every day, and relatively few seem to suffer unduly. Just take the normal, sensible precautions (no water unless bottled, eat in popular restaurants, if buying fruit from a stall, the type you peel yourself is safest). In addition, we ate vegetarian.... most of the time.

Like Tracey (and yourself), we went into India absolutely determined to play it completely safe at all costs, and avoid anything even remotely risky. I think our good intentions lasted about two days, when, having just feasted on some delicious bananas, all the while shaking hands with every grubby child that ran up to us, I absentmindedly licked my fingers. I expected to die that same night, and swallowed some Imodium there and then, not waiting for the inevitable..... but nothing happened. Next day, while I was still marvelling at my good luck in even being on my feet, I had another absentminded attack and cleaned my teeth with tap water! Now I've really done it, I thought. Again, nothing.

Slowly, I learned to be relaxed, but not foolhardy. We still took a few reasonable precautions -- as Tracy so wisely said, go with your intuition, and if a plate of food or a restaurant looks dicey, have nothing to do with it, just as if you were at home -- but, on the whole, we became more ready to try roadside stall food and the many marvellous lassis that are sold on every street corner. One day in Mumbai we discovered a tiny milk bar with a drink called "pyush", and we had THREE within the space of about ninety minutes. Later that afternoon, I started feeling a little queasy, and prepared for the worst. But a few minutes and one rest-stop later, everything was back to normal... nothing worse than I get right here in my home town (Sydney) every Chinese New Year when we go to one of the VERY respectable Asian restaurants in town and have a banquet of "different" foods.

We carried on for five weeks and had the best food we've ever had in our lives. The cuisine of India is one of the highlights of any holiday in that country. It would be a shame if you became so constrained by worries that every meal might be your last.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2005, 02:50 PM
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We did much the same trip as you a few years back. The only trouble we had was from a meal at the Imperial Hotel in Delhi but I think that was just bad luck. My advice is to take Dukoral before you go and use hand sanitizer constantly while you are there. Oh, and cross your fingers !
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Old Feb 2nd, 2005, 03:50 PM
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..you know the story..open it,peel it, boil it(ie wellcookedand freshly prepared)or foget it.


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Old Feb 2nd, 2005, 04:09 PM
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Hi Brooklynboy, you are going in a cool month, so seafood is okay. The locals say that you can eat it in a month with an 'r' in it. I lived there for a few years and always cleaned my teeth with tap water, after all you can't tape your mouth shut whilst in the shower, so what's the diff really, when you think about it.

You can eat at any restaurant, but I would steer away from roadside darbars unless you eat something freshly cooked, 'cos it sometimes takes a little while to be acclimatised and some folks have more sensitive stomachs than others and can be affected even by the brand of oil used.

Important to drink bottled water, but be sure the bottle is sealed properly, and stay with known brands like Nestle, Coca Cola and the local Bisleri (blue label) and Himalaya (pink label). Interesting to note that when I lived there the American Embassy did a water test and found Himalaya the most pure, but this was before outside companies like Nestle came in. Also FYI there was a hullabaloo a year or two back when it was discovered that Coke was found to have harmful levels of heavy metals in their Indian made product.

Keep away from salads, except in a high class hotel. If you eat at Wimpy's chicker burger place for e.g., take out the lettuce. There is a small chance that the egg of the tapeworm is not washed off the lettuce and if you eat one, it can have a very long lasting effect on the system. I don't think it's very widely known but I know of two people who were affected and it can take years to recover 100%. Not worth it in my book.

Other than that, have fun and eat wherever you fancy providing it looks clean; and be sensible but not paranoid. February is a great month for dishes with mehti (fenugreek) leaves, spinach (sarson ka saag) and Indian red carrots. I myself am going in a week and am looking forward to getting into my favourite foods!
Cheers


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Old Feb 3rd, 2005, 10:01 AM
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I was there about 8 years ago (similar tour) by the sound of it. The only time I was ill was following a meal at the end of our holiday at the Hyatt Regency. Cured by a swift dose or 5 of Imodium. Most of my friends who have also travelled to India say that at sometime they were a bit "loose" for about 24 hours. I would agree with the comment on the power cuts - seemed to happen quite regularly at the Hyatt.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2005, 07:25 PM
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Hey BrookeyBoy.

If you have had some travel, backpacking, hiking & trekking experience (no matter where) then it is relatively easy for you to determine the dynamics of your stomach & the rigors that your body can handle.

Otherwise you have to wish yourself "good Luck" as most evidence that you read of is virtually anecdotal in nature.

The prime problems that beseige even Indians are water, heat & dust and general hygiene.

General Thumb rules -
1. Buy the best insurance that you can get on the mkt that offers wide coverage on all sorts of health related problems.

2. use a face mask to prevent nose & mouth exposure to vehicular exhaust fumes & the general dust. (nowadays even local Indians use it)

2. Drink boiled water and lots of genuine sealed bottled water (good brewed, sealed,canned beer can be really good if handled in moderation).

3. Hot piping cooked food like Nan, rotis, daal will keep your stomach pretty much intact. Infact spices in moderation is considered to be good & vege food may perhaps suit you better then any fish, eggs, milk & meats(avoid hawkers, raw salads and places where cutlery is found to be washed in stagnated water !!!)

4. Avoid public toilets !!!! (this can be really a nightmare if you are on a few pints of lager).

5. Avoid any sexual acts (unless travelling with spouse, girl/boyfriend & confined to hotel rooms)

On a first ever trip to India, I would drop places like Bhopal & Aurangabad & rather stick to the splendour of Delhi, Jaipur, Agra, Goa & Trivandrum. After all one can always come back to trod the beaten track !

& finally mid-Feb is not really the best time to set foot on Indian soil & I would probably wait until end Mar.

But then, hey the real journey begins when you do what others generally don't !!

Rickshawdriver says "namaste" should be nailed to every Indian you meet!Ha!
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Old Feb 4th, 2005, 12:00 AM
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Rickshawdriver,

Just a quick question about something in your post, you say mid Feb is not the best time to visit India and to wait until the end of March. Why is this ? I had wanted to plan a trip in April but everything I have been reading says after mid March it is way too hot...
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Old Feb 4th, 2005, 12:53 AM
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Hi Kelly

From sheer experience & writing with specific reference to B.Boys original msg, I would say that travel in North India - Delhi, Agra etc is definately not recommended due to the intense cold that may linger almost until the end of Feb.

It thankfully does not snow in those places but the fog & mist can create hours of air & road jams resulting in long delays & irritatingly ghastly inconveniences which can turn your timed travel plans absolutely topsy-turvy unless you are a backpacker who has the luxury of a few extra days.

However the real culprit is the Smog & pollution that the cold creates as the dusty pollution just settles in the cool air rather then being blown away to higher ground.

March also herald the Spring of Warmth & the beginning of India's many festivals. Talk of being auspicious, pious and religious begins with the end of winter !!!

So Kelly you can plan mid/end feb to visit South India and end a month or so later (depending on your time) up North to catch the seasons as they change.

Rick Shaw driver
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Old Feb 4th, 2005, 01:04 AM
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Thanks so much for your quick reply RickShawDriver! I had just come back to the post to clarify that I wanted to visit Delhi, Varanasi, and Rajasthan. So for these areas, what should i expect if I arrived end of March(probably can't go before then due to work) or Early April, staying for 2-3 weeks leaving by mid April or so ? I am so excited to visit India as I have been wanting to go for so long, but want to make sure I choose a good time to go. I could wait until the fall, but that seems so far off! Thanks again!
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Old Feb 4th, 2005, 11:19 AM
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Thanks for the fast replies and good advice, all. Rickshaw, am locked into these dates and this itinerary, but hope the weather won't be too ghastly, and plan on returning again and seeing more places. Such a big country, impossible to hit everything in one trip. Sounds like I'll eat well while I'm there! Have cooked Indian at least a couple of times a week for years; can't wait to get a taste of the stuff on its home turf.
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Old Feb 4th, 2005, 09:05 PM
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Just another note about avoiding sickness in India. Being careful about food is a good thing. But also just touching things in Delhi can get you sick. Keep a hand sanitizer or wet cloths with you and wash your hands multiple times a day.
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Old Feb 5th, 2005, 12:00 AM
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Without trying to stir up a controversy, I have to point out that mid February is the best period to travel in North India. By then the cold waves have subsided, Delhi's fog problems are almost over and the weather is heavenly. Beginning of April is the beginning of summer, and unless you have no other choice, I would suggest you stay away from Rajasthan.

On the other hand, it is much easier to obtain discounted hotel accommodation in April! This February Rajasthan is overflowing with tourists.
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Old Feb 5th, 2005, 03:35 AM
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I have read several posts lately by rickshawdriver, and they have always been helpful and accurate; so I was, like Rajhelp50, a little confused by his advice about February vs April, as I had always heard that February was a very good time to visit North India (although that delhi fog seems to be a wretched experience for a good part opf the year). So, when in doubt, look at the figures. You should get all the information you want at http://users.skynet.be/link2/htm/chart.html.

Those face masks are probably a good idea in Delhi, as it is certainly the most polluted city I have visited in India, and probably anywhere in Asia. But I can't imagine you'll feel the need for them anywhere else. I'm trying to remember whether, in five weeks in India, I ever saw anyone wearing one.
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Old Mar 11th, 2005, 01:56 PM
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Back from the trip for a week now, and still can hardly believe how much I enjoyed it! Predictions of dreary weather notwithstanding, we found a marvelous clime everywhere we went (one brief afternoon rain in Aurangabad, and a thrilling evening thunderstorm in Dhar). People couldn't have been nicer, food was fantastic -- no stomach problems whatsoever. Saw one amazing thing after another; can hardly wait to go back and see still more of the country.
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Old Mar 11th, 2005, 06:41 PM
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Glad to know you had a great time...India is an amazing country isn't it..We are planning our next trip to India for November possibly to Kerala..
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Old Mar 12th, 2005, 12:58 AM
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brooklynboy, I am so happy to hear that good report! I agree.... as soon as you leave you start to plan a return visit. This is a great destination!

Hope you tried some of those lassis!
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Old Mar 12th, 2005, 04:32 AM
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I've made two lengthy trips to India - months not weeks. I ate at cheap restaurants and street food too - but I also followed the rules outlined by many posters - ie peel the fruit yourself, no ice, etc. If the food is freshly cooked no worries. I wouldn't touch seafood though unless by the sea. Veg is safest.

But, jeez, don't get too hung up on foreover cleaning your hands with whatever that product is.

I will tell you a story about lowering you guard. After about five months I was in Agra and decided to have cornflakes for breakfast. This was a complete departure from my usual routine. They duly arrived, with warm milk. Now I don't much like milk (like I said the cornflakes order was an aberration) but warm milk - yuk! So I asked for cold milk. I guess the jug went into the fridge for a while. When it came back it was still tepid. "Please" said I, "I want cold milk". Some time later the jug came back and was cold enough to stomach.
Now - how had that been done? ice cubes .. ha ha. I was sick. ha ha. No big deal - I had time to spare.

Just keep your thinking cap on and you will be fine.
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Old Apr 11th, 2005, 09:27 AM
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When we went to Thailand last year (Chang Mai, Bangkok) we ate almost exclusively street food (pad thai, grilled squid etc). Never had even so much as an upset stomach. It was awesome.

Now we are planning a trip to India (exact destinations are unknown for now) and I have grand visions of the vendors selling delicious tandoori chicken and naan and eating them with no problems. Is that not accurate or wise to do? We are pretty adventurous eaters and like to live like the locals while we are there. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

To be honest, the whole left hand - right hand thing has me a little freaked out too.
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