17 Apr, day 15, Tokyo, Ghibli and Edo-Tokyo, cont'd.

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Side-note: It appears that the Ghibli had more of an effect on me than I originally realized. Prior to going, I had heard of Hayao Miyazaki only in the context of his manga work (Nausicaa); I can scarcely believe that I was in ignorance of his film-work for so long, given that it is so extensive and given that his studio partnered with Disney, to boot. Admittedly, I rarely go to movies or even watch them on TV, but still... Anyway, since going to Japan, I am determined to dig up a video of one of his works, if only to see more examples of his style. (I thoroughly enjoyed the short film shown at the museum; like all great animated works, the theme of the piece cut across all language barriers).

******************

Lunch is at the Ghibli, which is very 'Hobbithole' like in many aspects. I leave wishing I could buy a copy of one of the classic children's books that inspired Miyazaki - I remember well as a child poring over the illustrations to ancient volumes of the "Land of Oz" (sequel to the Wizard) and various other works where the illustration style was heavily influenced by the Art Nouveau movement.

We then head to the Edo-Tokyo museum. We initially rent audio-guides but as at TCMIT, we end up not using them, since we discover that a volunteer will give us an English tour. I thoroughly appreciated this man's time and attempt after our tour to offer him at least a cup of coffee, but his own schedule precluded this.

Our temporary host, whose name I alas did not write down and now do not remember, guided us for 90 minutes through the section covering the older period of Tokyo's history; we went through the section on Westernization and more recent history, on our own.

I'm a fan of James Clavell's 'Shogun' and, during the preparation for this trip, I came to realize that Clavell had loosely based his character 'Toranaga' on Japan's first shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu; I also learned that his character 'Blackthorne' was similarly loosely based on a real person, William Adams, who indeed came to be known and favoured by Ieyasu. Enough of Clavell's novel was factual to provide me with some groundwork for understanding the older part of Tokyo/Japan's history. I recommend the novel in any case, it's a great story, especially the tea ceremony scene between two Japanese characters roughly halfway through the second volume.

During our tour, our host pointed out a model of a boat, which he emphasized was, by order of the shogunate, designed to be only suitable for use in inland waters. In response to my inquiry as to the purpose of such restriction on the movement of ordinary people, our guide suggested that it was to consolidate the shogun's power, much as the Kim Jong dynasty in North Korea similarly seeks to consolidate its power by restricting the movement of its people, and thus their access to wider knowledge. This remark made me yearn to talk longer, and more informally, with our guide; we'd been in Japan for nearly two weeks, but as yet had not had a chance to really talk with any local. But 'twas not to be, as I said.



My comments on the section on the later period of history will be postponed for the time being, as I found this section particularly thought-provoking and I need a bit more time.

*************
Following the conclusion of our tour, we thank our guide (who has to go) have a quick break in the museum cafe, and then rush back to see what we can of the remainder of the museum, as it's due to close in an hour. We both then become thoroughly absorbed in the exhibits, so much so that it seems but a minute before we hear the strains of 'Auld Lang Syne' over the speakers. This seems to be a standard 'closing soon' theme song employed by many Japanese museums.

In any event, I awaken from the trance I've been in for the last hour or so, and realize that I am not carrying our daypack, and what is more, I realize spouse is not carrying it either. A horrible instance of deductive reasoning then ensues: 1. Neither of us is carrying the daypack, which means 2. We have left the daypack down somewhere, which means 3. We are at risk of losing my prescription sunglasses, our GPS unit, the bag with the chip holding dozens of digital photos... uh oh.

I bear down hard. Where have we been today? The Ghibli museum - thirty minutes by train away. This museum, picking up audioguides. Arranging for a tour. Taking a tour. Having a break in the museum cafe.

The museum cafe...The museum is closing in four minutes. The museum cafe closes when the museum does. Which means...

RUN.

We sprint for the cafe, arriving at two minutes to five, pantomiming the carrying of a backpack, and lo, our daypack appears from behind the counter.

Whew. That was close. We have been making a policy of double-checking before we leave anywhere to avoid just this kind of adrenalin-pumping scene, but somehow, in our enthusiasm for this museum, we forgot. Lesson (re) learned.

En route back 'home' from the Edo-Tokyo, we stop in at Shinjuku to have a look round, just to see what the area is like.

Nobody just has a look round the Shinjuku station area. It's like saying one will just have a brief look Mars, or Jupiter. It is large, bright, and by the way, for the record, do not attempt to orient yourself using landmarks like a Bic camera store outlet, there are two. Or a 'Lumine' store outlet, there are apparently three stores with this name just at Shinjuku.

We scope a shopping complex for restaurants. There are about five on each floor, all playing competing recorded music. I feel like I've been thrown into a washing machine with seven strobe lights and eight ghetto blasters. It's a stimulating experience, too stimulating.

We beat a retreat, and settle for a repast back at Meguro station. The spot we choose, "Yotsuya" I think it is called, requires one to first insert money into a machine to buy a token for the menu item of one's choice. This, one then gives to the waitress. I can't quite follow the difference between a 500 yen version of my select5ion and an 800 yen version, and so pick the latter to be safe.

The portion of rice and grilled pork and salad that arrives is huge. Next time, the 500 yen version.

And so endeth day 15.

18 April, day 16, Tokyo

I awaken this morning delighted to realize that as I have for the last couple of nights, I have slept all the way through instead of counting ceiling tiles - or sheep, or whatever else will suit - at two a.m.

Spouse has occasionally opined on the hassle of dragging around his CPAP but I love CPAP, I love its gentle purr, so much an improvement over spouse's intermittent snores. CPAP is a relatively recent introduction to our lives, how I wish we had discovered it years ago. For spouse, it means better health. For me, it means that when traveling, I no longer have to explore exotic escapes from snoring. Over the years, I have whilst traveling slept in hallways, in closets, in a bathtub (not as comfortable for the purpose as reputed to be) and on one memorable occasion, a balcony. CPAP has allowed me, like a character in a John Le Carre novel, to come in from the cold - or at least, from the balcony.

This morning CPAP is still purring away as spouse is still asleep. I listen to its soothing purr - whee-oooh, whee-ooh, whee-ooh, and contemplate our recent days.

I have already peeked through the curtains and found that a fabulous sunny day is dawning over Tokyo. This I take to be an omen that we should head for Mount Takao and enjoy the weather. It will also enable us to have a little downtime which I think we need. Then maybe we can try a second assault on the neon extraganza that is Tokyo at night.

Spouse awakens and as part of my outline for the day, I am careful to use the words 'chair lift' lest he get some idea that a hiking excursion to Mount Takao is just another attempt to collect life insurance.

We eschew the shuttle and take a more direct route, walking to the subway and hopping it to Meguro station where we grab some breakfast. Then we jack up our Suica cards that we bought yesterday with another 1000 yen each. Suica is convenient but I gotta say, those cards are gobbling up 1000 yen notes like popcorn.

For some reason once at Shinjuku station we opt for the JR Chuo line out to Takao and change there for the Keio line to Takaosanguchi, instead of taking Keio line all the way out to Takaosanguchi. This not only means a couple of changes (at one point our JR train terminated and we had to switch platforms) but it is also slightly more expensive. Still, it's reasonably quick, and we arrive at the chair lift around 9:45. Under the careful supervision of the attendants, we drop our butts into the chair.

The view as we ascend is initially pitch black with occasional flashes of light; this is the inside of my eyelids as I am somewhat reluctant to open them and contemplate my imminent doom. There is no bar on this chairlift, only a net underneath. As I resign myself to my fate and open my eyes, I note water bottles and hats and so forth dropped on the net by previous souls as they fell off their chairs and disappear between the strands of the net. Do not bother telling me that the spacing is too small to accommodate a human frame, even a juvenile, I know better. We are all doomed.

In due course we manage to outwit the goblins who would have us fall to our deaths and we alight the chairlift. One or two parties of schoolkids are in turn coming off of the other motorized conveyance, the cable car; as this is a special event they are not in uniform, save for identical sun hats. I confess they do look cute, even if they are at this moment tearing around like, well, nine year olds are apt to tear around. But wait, their teachers are calling them together, and they do indeed assemble in a neat group. Remarks in Japanese are called out - my guess is that they are being read the riot act, because when the teacher finishes they all reply in unison, "Hai." Two minutes later they are more or less as they were before. Teacher sighs. We grin. Kids are the same, all over the world.

My plan is for us to explore a small section of hiking trail 5 which will take us to a suspension bridge - flushed with my success at outwitting the chairlift, I'm prepared to tempt fate - then double back and take the conventional route, trail one, as far as the temple. This will involve climbing but, as I insist to spouse, should not involve too much climbing. My credibility is admittedly low by now, but he decides to believe me. Ha, I'll get that insurance yet.

18 April, day 16 - Tokyo/Mount Takao (cont'd)

I misspoke; it's trail 4 that takes one to the suspension bridge (and beyond.)

Before embarking on our hike, we take in the view of Tokyo from the viewpoint not far from the chairlift/cable car station. It's a little hazy today despite the sun, but the skyscrapers of the city are quite visible in the distance, along with a surprising number of trees in the foreground. Alas, the accompanying graphic of the scene is in Japanese only, so we cannot orient ourselves very well.

Just beyond the viewpoint, we pass some magnificent cedar trees, which a sign informs us are very old indeed - no surprise, given the diameter of the trunks. One tree's trunk is encircled with rope bearing what looks to be like zig-zagging pieces of paper. I long to know what this is, what it signifies, but nothing nearby gives a clue.

As we detour onto trail 4, I can hardly believe we are so close to downtown Tokyo. We pad along a trail that is set amidst an incredibly peaceful forest of cedar. Now that we're off the main trail, we are almost entirely on our own - we meet a total of perhaps five people in the next half hour or so. Of course, it's also possible other people fell off the trail to their doom, for this walk is on a hillside that is quite steep, and the trail is remarkably narrow.

On the other hand the suspension bridge when we come upon it is tame - it's no Lynn Canyon. This is fine by yours truly, who doesn't really appreciate it when the terrain beneath her bobs up and down. But it's a fine place to stop and listen to the birds, who can be at least heard if not, given the heavy canopy overhead - seen.

We head back to the main trail and just before we reach the junction, we spot a TV crew following what appears to be a local TV personality and his guest, out exploring the park this fine morning. They swoop past, the 'personality' carrying on in a style one would recognize from any North American 'breakfast' style show.

Other than that, we're pleased to see that traffic on the main path of Takao is relatively light on this, a weekday in mid April.

When we reach the temple - more accurately, a temple complex, for there are several buildings - I again see the proverbial rope and zig-zagged paper suspended underneath the eaves of the main hall. We hear the sound of monks chanting within - for us this is a first. Moments later we are startled to hear the sound of a conch shell being blown and sure enough, the monks are leaving the temple and heading in a procession over to one of the other buildings, led by a monk in a robe of brilliant purple who is indeed blowing a conch shell. Other monks in similar brightly hued robes follow, with some big cheese monk bringing up the rear under the shade of an umbrella held by some minion. For this reason this temple, Yakuoin, stands out in my mind amongst the ones we've seen this trip.

The air is sweet with incense from a nearby brazier. Moments before, we had passed the 'Shinto' part of the complex - a giant ring that people take turns stepping through. And now here, a few steps away from the temple, we come upon a shrine guarded by statues of foxes, similar in design to one we saw at Sanjusangendo, back in Kyoto. A young man steps up, throws a coin into a box, and pushes a wheel engraved with what we assume are prayers into a fresh position. In my memory the sounds of a temple and shrines become intertwined: the clatter of coins, followed by lovely sounds: a clap of hands, of ropes pulled on rattling gourds, of clappers applied to bells, of metal wands applied to metal rings, and on this day on Mount Takao, the sound of a massive bell - a timekeeper? nearby being rung by an unseen monk, pulling a rope to manipulate a giant exterior clapper.

Here on a hillside near the temple, we again see something that reminds us of Sanjusangendo, winged figures both birdlike and human-like, standing in the foliage of the steep hillside.

We set off back under one of the temple gates, seeking the vendors we saw on the way in, and sure enough, here is one selling something we've long meant to try: what looks like three rice balls on a stick, and kept hot. This, we learn later, is 'dango' - makes it sound like it belongs more in the Wild West than in Japan - and it comes served with a delicious brown sauce of unknown composition. Dango is some form of rice flour dumpling: it's chewy, flavoured with black sesame seeds and the aforementioned sauce, and very filling - one stick apiece keeps us going for the next five hours.

I'm glad, in light of this experience, that I didn't make a reservation at Ukai Toriyama. Had I done so, we wouldn't have sampled dango, but more to the point, I don't think we could have given this restaurant the relaxed time it needs for us to truly enjoy the experience. Next time, perhaps.

Meanwhile it was now one p.m, and our plan is to return relatively early to our hotel, for we have evening plans.

In short order we find the chairlift, and this time I can distract myself with the splendid view of Tokyo, and thus avoid falling to my doom. And this time, as well, we catch the Keio line back to Shinjuku, and thence to our hotel. We take turns napping and soaking in the tub - ah... - and thus recharged, prepare for our second assault on nighttime Tokyo.

18 April, day 16 Tokyo/Mount Takao (cont'd)

This time we are prepared: we eat BEFORE we head to Shinjuku, grabbing a quick bite at the 'Tendon' tempura place we liked so much before. Yes, I would have liked to have tried the Sushi conveyor-belt style restaurant, and spouse even offered to sit with me whilst I did so (spouse not being a sushi fan) but this would have made for other complications, so I pass.

Our first stop is Shibuya (you say she yay ya, but I say she boo ya - drum roll....) and the famous crossing. In contrast to last night, when we arrived on the nighttime scene too tired to enjoy the madness, this time we are sufficiently rested, in fact we decide to embrace the madness. If the place is mad, go mad. Thus, taking our cue from 'Where's Waldo'? we decide to play, 'spot the Gai-jin' - splitting up to cross at various points, snapping pictures of the crowd (and of each other, somewhere in the crowd) with our respective cameras, and seeking to find ourselves in the pictures later.

The sound is almost beyond description - of not one but two giant TV screens, of dozens, dozens of neon ads, teenage girls chatting on cellphones that grow out of their arms, boys lounging about trying to get the girls to answer THEIR cellphone calls, and eighteen-wheelers lurching around at every light change; we finally realize that the sole purpose of these trucks is to advertise services and entertainers, not ship goods. For they bear not containers but giant billboards lit from behind by lighting carried on the truck chassis.

After about the fifth round of Spot the Gaijin, we reunite and head off to Shinjuku.

Our goal is the Metropolitan Government Building, which looks close enough to Shinjuku station on a map. Next time, I'd seriously consider a cab - it felt like at least four long city blocks just to get out of the station, and then another long - but I must concede, very pleasant - stroll outside the station to the MGB. After a quick security check (be prepared to have bags inspected) we are whisked to the 45th floor, there to enjoy a free nighttime view of Tokyo in all directions. Some fellow tourists maintain they were even able, earlier in the day, to spot Fuji, far in the distance, from one angle. But I am far more enthralled with the sights of the Tokyo Tower, the Skytree, and what I insist to spouse is a ferris wheel, far off on Odaiba island. And everywhere, everywhere, masses and masses of lights, as far as the eye can see.

But occasionally I catch myself wondering at all this light. Do Japanese children, or at least, Tokyo children, ever get a chance to see stars?

I have no answers. Instead, mindful of the long walk back to Shinjuku, we bring our night's activities to a close. Enroute to Shinjuku, we pass en route a sign featuring a cartoon of an elephant surrounded by a red circle, and a red line drawn across it. No elephants? People keep elephants as pets in Tokyo??? Then it dawns on me: this is Japanese graphic for, "no horseplay." Only, in lieu of horses...

Back at the hotel, we are bushed. Packing for tomorrow night's plane can wait till tomorrow morning.

And here endeth day 16.

I envy both your time exploring and your energy. (To say nothing of your powers of observation.)

Is Lynn Canyon that place just outside of Vancouver? With the nausea-inducing "bridge" that rocks back and forth as you try to cross? Sort of like trying to cross a great chasm on a cable-knit sweater.

Amazing report! I envy your ability to plan so carefully and so well.

19 April. Tokyo, day 17.

Tonight we head to the airport, and in point of fact our plane takes off on the 20th of April, very, very early in the morning. But since we plan to cheat Dateline God of his offered day, we will in fact arrive in Los Angeles on the 19th, which is to say, 'today' and spent 'tonight' and the following night in LA.

Our first mission, following a quick breakfast of toast and coffee and juice grabbed at a 'Johnathan's' restaurant, is to pack for the plane. This is a tedious affair as all travelers know: stash 'sharps' in the bags to be checked, organize the bag of liquids thing for the onboard bags, etc. etc.

Our last day in Tokyo, our last day in Japan. So many possibilities: but we must choose, we must choose.

It is spouse's turn to have his watch give up the ghost. So, bags checked at the hotel desk, we head out on the subway (one last 1000 yen meal given to the Suica cards)to Hibiya where our internet search has told us there is yet another 'BIC camera' outlet, where spouse also picks up a cheap watch. A traveler without a watch, after all, is a traveler impaired.

We then walk to the nearby "Yorakucho" stop of the Yamanote line, taking it as far as Shimbashi. There, it's on to the 'Yurikamome' monorail, because we're headed to the Telecom Center stop on Odaiba island, there to visit the "Miraikan' - the National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation.

We manage to grab, if not seats in the front of the automated monorail, at least standing room behind the front seats, and so get a different perspective of the Tokyo skyline today, as well as a good look at the most interesting architecture of the Miraikan - think of a giant tennis ball stuck in one side of the building and you get the idea.

On the brief walk from the monorail stop to the museum we spot what we take to be a kiosk selling lottery tickets - "Lottario" - well, it was a good guess. It is, in fact, a hamburger chain. Only in Japan.

Hullo, what's this? It's a free day at the Miraikan, so we save 600 yen each on admission. I later learn that Friday and Saturday of this week were free because this was 'Science and Technology week' in Japan.

No amount of technology will save the food that is about to burn on my stove, if I don't break off for a mo'. Back later.

Don Topaz

Yes, that's the one. After Lynn Canyon, I think only bungee jumping would inspire more trepidation.

Marija - my planning ability rep is about to get whacked. I MUST stop that pot on the stove....

Thanks for such an entertaining and educational trip report.

I especially enjoyed the section on Takaosan which we intend to visit in mid-November...hopefully there will still be some color there.

What hotel did you stay in in Tokyo? We are currently debating action vs calm!

What a wonderful report, thanks for sharing. I find it amazing that you did so many off the radar activities on your first trip to Japan!

I feel like Victor Borge, that comic pianist who would amongst other things play a piece composed of nothing but endings, a satire on situations where audiences applaud too soon.

Because as much as I can sense pressure to take a bow and exit stage right, I must advise the audience that my symphony (still) isn't finished.

Those of you attempting to escape, I suggest you do so by quietly pretending to go to the lobby for a glass of water. Or listen to this Victor Borge piece (couldn't find the endless endings one, so this will have to do)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWf7GEX65Sw

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ovenbird.. It was the Sheraton Miyako.

The Miraikan doesn't wow us quite as much as TCMIT, but then Miraikan's mission is both more ambitious and more abstract than TCMIT, and so must be accorded some slack. As the museum itself states, it "seeks to facilitate understanding of the things that are happening in our world today from a scientific perspective, and to provide a forum for pondering and discussing the future that we will create moving forward."

Up on the fifth floor, "Explore the Frontiers" where we begin, are exhibits dealing with the deep oceans, including the phenomenon of hydrothermal vents, which form when seismic activity causes the ocean floor to crack. Water seeping into these cracks is superheated, to temperatures of over 350 degrees C, and as it re-emerges from the crack, carries with it minerals leached from the rock below. The scalding hot water doesn't turn into steam (like the boiling water in my dinner pot of a few hours ago) because of the immense pressure of the overlying seawater: we're talking miles of ocean depth here.

Entire ecosystems form near these vents, because hydrogen sulfide gas is released from these vents, and this gas can be oxidized by certain forms of bacteria, which in turn live in a symbiotic relationship with tube-worms. Okay, you ask, so what's the big deal. The big deal is, that by studying life at extreme ocean depths, scientists might get a clue as to how life on earth first began.

Which takes us to the other end of things: outer space. Here are exhibits on telescopes (hearkening back to our visit to the Griffith Observatory in LA) and on the study of elementary particles with particle accelerators, and the study of neutrinos. I have to really bear down hard here, I'm no physicist, but this is precisely the value of this museum: it's making me think about things outside my comfort zone, so to speak.

We whip through the rest of the fifth floor, for time is flying. Down on the third floor "Create Your Future" we find a live demonstration of ASIMO, the robot created by Honda and named in honour of Isacc Asimov. I confess I'm not all that impressed - the robot was a triumph of engineering, to be sure, but this is stuff to amuse kids, not to educate about robotics - so I'm glad when it's over. But, but, there are other exhibits that fill the bill. I spent most of my time studying the exhibit on the 'high speed catching robot', as I have to be selective; time is roaring by. We also have a tiny bit of time for the 'mechanical computer' -it's been ages since I've thought much about the guts of a computer, and this is a good opportunity for a refresher.

Alas, so much to see, so little time. I had come here precisely to find some stuff on nanotechnology, and it's late into our visit by the time I finally find it.

In the museum as a whole, we spent about three and a half hours, including lunch, and personally I felt that wasn't enough, but it may be for many others.

19 April Tokyo, day 17 - continued

Well, it's 15:30. Time to beat feet and start making our way back. Onto the monorail - lord, but this is a great view of Tokyo - and back to Shimbashi, where we pause at a Starbucks.

Can one ever get to know a country, even slightly better, in a mere two weeks? We have come, and now are leaving, without having had a single in-depth conversation with any of the inhabitants. Certainly our eyes have just about popped out of our heads, such has been the intensity of our gaze. Nonetheless, I'm leaving with very few answers, but definitely more questions, than when we arrived.

Alas, no time to philosophize. Time waits for no traveler.

We head to Ebisu to do our last bit of shopping - a whistlestop through the food court to pick up some mochi and whatnot for friends back home - and then it's off to pick up our bags.

At Hamamatsucho, after a few false starts, we find the JR office that exchanges our SUICA cards - and thus we get our deposit of 500 yen back, and also remaining credit on the cards (less 210 yen or so.) We use our windfall to buy tickets for the monorail, no, not the Yurikamome, the other one that will take us out to Haneda airport. No worries, ticket machines are easy to use, as elsewhere.

Night has fallen on Tokyo as we board the monorail, and the view of the lights of the bridge and elsewhere make for a lovely final view of the city. I'm in a daze - we just got here, how can we be leaving? But then, to get beneath the surface of a megapolis like this would take, one suspects, rather more than even a few weeks here, let alone a few days. Sayonara Japan, who knows when or if, we will see you again.

20 April Tokyo, day 18, Los Angeles/Pasadena

It's tough to get out of bed this morning, but the laws of time zone hopping must be obeyed.

Our objective today is Pasadena. Most sites in Pasadena don't open until noon, so we have time to stop in at "old Pasadena" which is a tad disappointing - but to be fair, our impression is based on but a small sample of time.

We time our arrival for the Norton Simon museum in West Pasadena exactly on time for noon, when it opens. This place is a joy. The cafe, with outdoor tables overlooking a fabulous collection of sculpture displayed in the museum garden, is a joy. The Impressionist art within, is a joy. So are the Picassos. And the Asian collection, which oddly enough features stuff from everywhere BUT Japan.

It's three thirty when I remember we were going to try to also take in the Gamble House, but when we arrive, we are too late for the last tour of the day. No matter, the gift shop features plenty of stuff giving clues to the interior of this famous Arts and Crafts style house. And in fairness, we are running out of time (and energy) anyway.

The drive back to our airport hotel has us crawling back on the so-called freeway. It seems even on a Saturday at 5 p.m. there's a rush hour. LA, says the song, is a great big freeway... not entirely true, or fair, portrait of the city, but the song has a point...

21 April, day 19, flight home. Summary.

To be continued...one last time.

Tips

Budget

Hotel: As always I direct folks to a source which is both regularly updated and is based on a large sample, the US State department, to get an idea of how prices vary between cities in Japan. Not surprisingly the rates are quoted in USD, which at time of writing was gaining on the yen - a quick rule of thumb is to add two zeros to the rates quoted (e.g. 200 USD -> 20000; then subtract oh, five per cent (1000 in this case) to get 200 USD = 19000 yen, (USD 100 thus buys 9500 yen) which should roughly be what one could buy after exchange fees, etc. Non-Americans, obviously, can then convert based on their country's currency vs USD.

http://tinyurl.com/3rt3whu

My guess is that US state department employees are housed in moderate, but not luxurious style as a rule, which means the hotel rates quoted should reflect prices for reasonably spacious rooms. However, bear in mind that such employees are generally traveling solo, and unlike many other countries, single rooms are common in Japan. Ergo, the hotel rates quoted are fairly conservative in my view for the 'moderate' category; i.e, don't expect to beat the hotel rates quoted if this is your category of choice and you are traveling as a couple.

On the other hand, the meals rate seems very generous, no doubt because state department employees are on business and thus expected to save time and simply eat in hotel restaurants, which are apt to be pricey. Tourists on the other hand, are not so constrained, so one's budget for food etc can if one wishes be much less. More on that in a moment.

If you are willing to accept comfortable and clean, but quite small, as in just enough room to move, rooms, it seems you can easily find accommodation for 30 to 40 per cent less than the 'moderate' category. Such rooms are not much bigger than what are deemed 'single' rooms in moderate category hotels, but <b> as far as I can tell </b>, they are otherwise of the standard of oh, Comfort Inn hotels or Ibis hotels. <b> (Feedback from other Fodorites welcomed as we didn't stay in this category of hotel this trip.) </b>

Backpackers can find accommodation in hostels for a fraction, maybe as little as 15 per cent, of the State department rates - one place I heard about in Tokyo offered dorm rooms, clean but VERY simple, shared washrooms, for

** <b> Food, local transport other than JR Pass, entrance fees, etc. </b>

We wound up spending, for two, around 9000 yen per day (4500 each) on average for this category. We didn't stint on entrance fees - if we wanted to see a temple or a museum, we went - and ditto for local transport for other than what was covered by JR pass. On the other hand we ate (by preference) very simply; probably our biggest indulgence was a daily coffee or two taken 'sitting down' - such coffees tend to be pricey, as opposed to a can of hot coffee from a vending machine. Meanwhile if you are a 'foodie' and want to sample multi-course sit-down 'kaiseke' meals, or if you expect to hit the bars, or if you want to sample sites like DisneySea, etc. you will have to budget a great deal more in this category.

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Laundry
1. The easiest thing is to book accommodation with machines provided: this is quite common with the 'business' style hotels like Tokoyo inn, Tokyu Inn, and Dormy inn chains. Other than this...

2. ...There's a chain known as 'Wash and Fold' in Japan - believe it or not, asking around for a 'coin laundry' (yes, the English words) will often elicit helpful directions to an outlet of this chain or similar chain. In Nagoya, there's one adjacent to the Nagoya Musical Theater. It's not especially cheap (800 to 1100 yen, depending on load size) but it is fast - we got a complete load washed and dried in 45 minutes for that sum. As far as I could tell, one must usually bring one's own detergent - before leaving home, we found something called 'detergent sheets' in a dollar store, and packed these as they're less messy than powder to pack.

Appliance tips (mainly for medical stuff like CPAPs)
- A power bar and extension cord can be useful, outlets in hotel rooms aren't always conveniently located. Note that Japan voltage is similar to North America's, so if you are from NA, no special converters, plug adapters, etc. are required.

Packing tips (spring)
1 word, layers. And as always, less is more.

I'm slowly conceding that having a notebook computer and/or handheld device for consulting x or y on the Internet is making my folder of printed out material out of date. Though I still like having printed copies of hotel confirmations, etc. and I still like low-tech maps.

Enjoyed your report, Sue. Thanks for enlightening and entertaining all of us that traveled along with you in the past few days.
I took note of your #2 tip in laundry. That will come in handy when we visit Japan in October.

Fantastic report and very well done! Thank you for taking the time to do this.

I do know how you are feeling after leaving Japan with so many questions still unanswered. That is how I felt after we left after our first three day visit. We have been back a few times since to answer most of my questions :)

Shinto shrines abound in Japan and it seems to have been one of your interests and still with unanswered questions. Let me try and help a bit. Those large ropes you saw with the folded papers on them are called shimenawa and the strips of white paper attached were the gohei. All of which are made from rice and twisted rice strands which date back to ancient times when they were used to mark off sacred places and ward off evil spirits. We have seen HUGE shimenawa throughout Japan.

You and other travelers planning a trip to Japan should read this page as it contains answers to your questions about what you saw and what visitors will see when at a Shinto shrine.

http://factsanddetails.com/japan.php?itemid=590

In <b>fact</b>(lol) this website will answer a lot of your questions about things you may see,eat and do while in Japan along with the history of someone or somethings you may encounter while traveling in Japan. Also it can give you a detailed history of a place or person of interest. This along with the Japan Guide site and of course Fodors are my key sites for Japan information.

http://factsanddetails.com/japan.php

I also use the JNTO site quite often. If I knew how to read Japanese it would open up a whole new world but haven't yet needed to,lol.

Do you think you would have interest in a return to Japan to answer some of your questions?

Aloha!

This series of reports is Hall of Fame material, especially as it provides such a fresh perspective.

Thank you Sue for this outstanding report. I have printed it out for future reference.

Greetings all. I am glad you enjoyed it; I myself felt I needed to put down so much detail since I will have to live on the memories of this trip for a long time, perhaps a very long time. So I didn't want to forget a single thing.

Hawaiian, thanks so much for the link, it is wonderful to now have context for many of the things we saw.

In response to your question: am I motivated to return to answer some of my questions: yes and no. The kind of questions I have are on subjects which will require a lot of reading and thinking, and this means dealing in my own language (a barrier, to be sure, but I doubt I will become fluent in Japanese at this stage.)

On the admittedly fragile basis of a brief visit, I see many bumps ahead in the road for Japan; and yet our visit to the Miraikan left me with hope not just for the country but for us all, particularly in the revelation of many international cooperative scientific endeavours.

I am a neophyte and many of you have made many trips, so I'd be interested in hearing your own impressions. Especially since, for various reasons, I don't expect to return any time soon.

Thank you Sue, Your report is good preparation for my upcoming first trip to Japan in November.