dgunbug

Still reading along and enjoying your spectacular journey. Now more than ever I hope to get to Bali.

gr21

Thank you, kja, for this lovely trip report. You write so eloquently! I'm reliving our wonderful trip to Java (we followed almost exactly the same itinerary) as well as getting lots of ideas for a return trip. I'm amazed at how much you pack in to a day!

Interesting discussion about religion in Indonesia. One of our guides in Java was a Christian, and described some of his difficulties growing up as a member of a religious minority. He expressed optimism that Indonesians of all faiths can live together peaceably.

We had a tout experience in Yogya - a man followed us the entire length of the shopping street. My husband turned around and asked him to stop following us; he pretended he didn't understand and continued to follow us. He didn't seem dangerous, but it was disconcerting since we didn't know what he wanted. Finally we realized he was hoping to follow us into stores and (presumably) get a commission for bringing us there! He left us once we reached the end of the shopping street.

Kathie

You really had an exceptional stay on Bali. You driver/guide was a real gem! One of the things I love about Bali is that the culture is so accessible. The locals want visitors to experience and understand their culture.

kja

Re: Besakih: Just to be clear, it doesn’t have a pyramid – it has a grand staircase climbing a hill that looked, to me, like a step pyramid.


@ tripplanner001: Thanks again! I had heard and read so many warnings about Pura Bekasih that I almost took it off my itinerary. I’m very glad I kept in in!

@ dgunbug: Thanks for sharing my journey! I hope you are able to visit Bali some day.

@ gr21: Thank you for your kind words! The tout you describe would have made me decidedly uncomfortable, though I have to admit that he had a rather clever idea. ;-)

@ Kathie: I was deeply impressed with the openness of the Balinese I encountered, and the easy way they had of sharing their culture with me. Such a delight!

jacketwatch

Its so nice to have met so many locals and be invited to their homes and to meet their families.

You handled the touts well, no doubt due to being well prepared. I have encountered similar aggressive touts before in India, especially in Pushkar. You used to have to go thru a gauntlet of them on the way to entering the Taj Mahal too but that is thankfully no longer the case.

I have read that civics are force fed and sadly treated very poorly. How much was the kopi luwak there if you can recall. I had a cup in Bangkok for $20.00! but this was at an upscale coffee shop ala Starbucks. It was good but never again for that price. For me Jamaican Blue Mountain is better for way less the cost. I often wondered why anyone would think to make coffee from beans in that state. My son have me a book all about coffee (great guy! I love coffee!) and read that when the Dutch controlled Indonesia all resources were theirs including the coffee plantations. Locals had to buy coffee from them so they decided to brew coffee from civil droppings to avoid the cost and Viola! you get Kopi Luwak.

So you have been to the field Museum in Chicago. I was born and raised in Chicago though we have been in the burbs now since 1979.

Great TR and I look f/w to more. I love how you have gotten the most out of this trip and seem to appreciate everything you see. And you must have a great memory as I assume you did not take notes. .

kja

@ jacketwatch:
… I can’t agree more that it was incredibly nice to meet local people and be invited to share their homes and traditions. In fact, I found it utterly awesome!
… I didn’t pay attention to the price of kopi luwak – I had decided in advance that I would not indulge until the industry as a whole can better assure the humane treatment of the civits. Just my personal stance; no judgments intended about the decisions others make. As you say, there are some very fine coffees to be enjoyed for far lower prices!
… You give my memory too much credit -- I did take notes! I’ve kept a journal on each of my trips, taking advantage of whatever free moments I have to record my experiences and thoughts. I admit that I sometimes got behind by a day or two, but I try to keep up.
… Give my greetings to Chicago – a great city, IMO!



Day 26: Bali -- Ubud to Bunutan

• With a last tasty breakfast, I checked out of the Kampeong Joglo Abangan, so happy that I had stayed here despite the initial hiccups! Amik met me again, and, per prior agreement, he was with his nephew, a nice young man who spoke almost no English – I wish I had known enough Indonesian to have exchanged more than a few words! We stopped first at
• The hotel in which I would spend my last two nights in Ubud, where I left my suitcase, taking only a small overnight bag. Next:

• The historic core of Semarapura. After glimpsing the old Dutch-era lighthouse and a large, impressive statue, I turned to
• the Klungkung Palace. I began with
… a small, but interesting, museum that featured the history of the area, from prehistoric artifacts through local traditions, such as weaving ikat and harvesting salt. I then visited
… an impressive gate to a now-gone temple.
… I saved the jewels of this palace for last: Two pavillions, one that was once the kingdom’s supreme court, the other surrounded by a lotus pond, both holding gloriously painted ceilings. Utterly, awesomely, breathtakingly amazing!

• Rejoining Amik and his nephew, we went to the local textile market, featuring extensive arrays of brilliantly colored ikat sarongs. It was a pleasure to see these textiles! Amik then took me to another place that had not been on my original itinerary:
• Tenganan, a small, traditional village where a rare textile -- a double ikat called geringsing – is made. What a fascinating place!
• At the entrance to the village, a young man named Wayan, who would be my guide there, greeted me; he proceeded to tell me about his people and his village.
... The inhabitants of this village consider themselves to be aboriginal Balinese – the Bali Aga, a people who had been in Bali long before the movement of Hindus from Java to Bali. (There is some evidence linking them to India, rather than Java.)
… To preserve their culture and lineage, marrying someone from outside of the village – which has more than 200 families (and something over 800 residents, IIRC) – would result in the person’s expulsion from the village. Wayan said it does happen, but very rarely.
… During our walk around this lovely village, he showed me its basic layout and pointed to various important structures – three shrines and a gamelan pavillion; pavillions for single and married men and women; compound houses for core family groups…. A group of young children were playing some kind of ball (?) game near the center of the village, calling to one another and shouting with delight from time to time.

• He also showed me, and told me about, geringsing. Double ikat has religious and quasi-magical signficance within the Bali Aga culture. Making it is governed by any number of rules (e.g., it can only be woven during a full moon). The designs, handed down from mother to daughter for generations, are both beautiful and symbolic.
• Because double ikat is an extraordinary textile that involves tying both the warp and weft threads, I knew from my advance research that – should I find it – it would come at a price. I had not asked to come to Tenganan (I didn’t think I could afford geringsing!), but I am so glad that Amik brought me here! I eventually chose two small, superb pieces. I bargained a bit – but not too hard because I didn’t question the value of the work, just my ability to accommodate the expense. ;-) And honestly, in comparison to prices I saw for other textiles in both Java and Bali, I can’t believe I was able to purchase these exquisite pieces for the price we negotiated! (In fact, I’d seen similar pieces at more than twice the price earlier that day in Semarapura.) Too, I am very glad that I met the woman who wove these pieces (Wayan’s mother) and saw the loom upon which she did so.

• Wayan practices what he called “calligraphy,” although it was nothing like any calligraphy I’d ever seen. From what I’ve learned since, I believe his craft is “palm-leaf manuscript” or “lontar”. Whatever these works are called, what they entailed were a set of narrow, hard strips of palm leaf connected to one another more-or-less like the slats in a Venetian blind, with carved bamboo at the top and bottom. Once extended, stained etchings on the set of palm leaves form an image. The level of detail required is, to my eye, extraordinary! He showed me how he does it, and even with a lighted magnifying glass, I couldn’t begin to see what he saw as he used a stylus to carve a small image. Then he rubbed it with a piece of charcoal that had been resting in water, used a cloth to wipe it dry, and there – in a sepia-like tone – was a stunningly detailed image! I was awed, and again bargained – not too hard – for one, and again not because I thought the initial price unreasable (quite in contrast, I’m sure could easily command a far higher price!), but rather because of my budgetary constraints.
• There was one problem, though -- I didn’t have enough IDR with me! Apparently, I’m not the first person to run into that difficulty: Wayan suggested that we return to the village gate where Amik could drive me to a nearby ATM; he would follow on his motorbike. So that’s what we did!

• Amik, his nephew, and I then settled in for a long-ish drive. There were stretches affording glimpses of mountain or sea, and other stretches edged by rice fields or forests or orchards…. Once in the Amed area, Amik stopped at an
• overlook affording stunning views over a small harbor and the coastline and Mt. Agung towering above to the left. Once I tore myself away, we headed to
• the surprisingly close hotel where I would spend the night. Amik and I confirmed that I would see him again at 3:30 on the day of my departure, when he would meet me in Ubud to take me to the airport, and that one of his cousins would pick me up at noon the next day to take me back to Ubud, traveling a route that Amik and I had discussed.

• After checking in at the Bali Dream House and enjoying a delicious welcoming beverage, I was led to my bungalow – another OMG-is-this-really-mine?!? bungalow: With a net-draped 4-poster bed in the middle, this room’s floor-to-ceiling wall-to-wall windows looked across “my” terrace, the hotel’s small infinity pool and some plants, and beyond, to the sea. Wow! The bungalow also had a nicely appointed “service” area (sink, counter, mini-fridge, shelves and hanging space) and a private open-air shower.

• I relaxed for a while, catching up on my journal, before heading to a place just a half-mile or so away that the hotel staff recommended for the sunset:
• OMG, it’s the place where Amik and his nephew and I had stopped! There’s a small café there, so I ordered a beer, and as I started to pay,
• I realized – to my horror! – that I had a total of 28K IDR with me, and they had just opened the bottle for which they charge 45K IDR -- oh no!!! I explained as best I could, and an extremely kind gentleman said that, of course, I must keep at least the 8K IDR, in case needed, and that I could pay the remainder the next day. Wow!!! So I took that beer and I found a seat and
• watched a spectacular sunset. High above the water (which was to the north – my right), I looked down on a small harbor holding a number of gently bobbing boats, including some traditional fishing vessels. Beyond, a series of steep mountain spurs reached the water, forming inlets, with hills and water alternating with each other toward the western horizon. And high above, and just to the left, was the looming silhouette of Mt. Agung. It had been glorious earlier during the day, and became ever more so as the sun began to set! Streaks of pink and grey spread across the sky behind Mt. Agung in a seemingly infinite array of alignments, all reflected in the darkening blues of the sea; a few fishing vessels moved in or out of the harbor; jewel-like lights began to emerge along the coastline. Seriously: How is it possible that I get to see such things?!?

• I walked back to my hotel (glad that I had a small LED flashlight), took a quick dip in the pool, and had a very tasty meal delivered to my lovely terrace. How wonderful! Late that night, I
• spent a ridiculously long time just floating in the pool, admiring the stars. And then, as I began to fall asleep, I realized
• OMG: I’m listening to the sound of a surf! The waves here are – or at least were – nominal. But the beach is composed of rocks and pebbles, and every time the water hits them, no matter how gently, they shift. I love the sound of a surf, and especially, falling asleep to that sound. Life can be good -- VERY very good.


Day 27: Bali -- Bunutan to Ubud

• I awakened to that wonderful rote of the surf.
• Having selected this particular lodging largely because it was supposed to be just yards from a reef that I could snorkle, I soon
• donned neck-to-ankle and shoulder-to-wrist sun-protecting swimwear and booties designed to protect feet on rocky beaches and worked with the hotel staff to find the right fit for fins and a mask.
• Since I’d snorkeled only twice before, both times on a trip 8 years earlier – and hadn’t even been in water since then, until this trip -- I experimented in the pool first, and then – with a few deep breathes (its and adventure, right? I’ll be fine!) I went to the beach.
• Once I got the fins on, I took just a few strokes and
• WOW! I was snorkling over a reef, swimming with any number of gorgeous and brilliantly colored fish. OMG! How wonderful!!!
• I didn’t spend too long out there; I did spend long enough to take in enough mental images that I trust will endure for years and years. Back on shore,

• I changed clothes and ordered breakfast, which I enjoyed on my terrace. It was soon time to meet Amik’s cousin for the drive back to Ubud. Our first task was to go
• to a nearby ATM, We then returned to the sunset overlook, where everyone seemed absolutely astonished to see me. I am so glad to have discharged my debt to the generous man who took a risk that he might never see me again! Then, per Amik’s recommendations, our first stop was the

• Palace in Amlapura. The former home of the region’s kings, built in a combination of Dutch and local styles, I was struck by this palace’s lingering signs of incredible beauty, despite the overwhelming evidence of a sad need for attention. The area included a number of buildings that now seem separate from the palace, and I often felt that I was trespassing, but Amik’s cousin had confirmed that we could roam these regions before either of us stepped outside the area immediately adjacent to the palace. There were some stunning views from mountains to sea, some lovingly arranged little gardens, and buildings with noteworthy decorations. After a long circuit, we came back to a large lotus pond and pavillion that were next to the palace.
• Once again, this was a place that I was very happy to have seen, and that hadn’t even made it onto my radar – kudos to Amik for making it a part of my experience!

• What had been on my radar, and was part of my request, was:
• Tirta Gangga, a set of pools and fountains and gardens – beautiful! A relatively recent creation, as I understand it (mid-1940s), it holds serene corners, beautiful fountains, and step-studded pools that can’t be visited without laughter. We then began a

• Long drive back to Ubud. Amik’s cousin spoke English well, and I enjoyed our conversation about how any number of things are similar or different in Bali and the U.S. -- marriage laws and rituals; education; military service requirements and benefits; etc. I also asked him a question that I did not ask of anyone else in Indonesia:
• What do the Balinese think of people from the U.S.? In general, he said, they welcome Americans because we never try to bargain, no matter the asking price, and we always tip WAY more than anyone else. Sigh. That his answer confirmed my fears is, I think, why I didn’t ask anyone else.
• After a long, scenic ride, we returned to Ubud and my new hotel:

• the Ubud Tropical Garden. Re-united with my suitcase, I was shown to a nicely appointed second-floor room that had a balcony and a view over the hotel’s pool and, beyond, a ripe rice field. I settled in, ran a few errands, and set off, a bit later than I had hoped, for
• a nearby temple where I had been told there might be a special ceremony. I think I just missed it – the gates were open (they were otherwise generally closed) and there were a few people who looked like they were taking care of last clean-up details and otherwise ending their day. I then
• walked around for a while, exploring this part of Ubud. Again, it seemed that every street was lined with establishments that catered to tourists. I eventually came to

• the Café Wayan – IMO, outstanding! A delightful setting, unbelievably delicious Indonesian and Balinese foods, excellent service. From there
• it was not a long walk back to my hotel, but a walk that included those very, very dark patches near the Monkey Forest mentioned upthread! Thank goodness I had a flashlight handy. And then
• time for sleep.


(to be continued)

jacketwatch

Still following. I'm glad you had another full day where what you saw and did was so memorable and appreciated.

Thank God for ATM's. Sort of cool to have modernity among all the tradition.

My wife is from India so I have learned to bargain. . She thinks I'm better at it than her but I think she's the real intimidator when she wants to be. . We recently went to an Indian jewelry store for a BD gift for her and and after selecting a trinket I asked the price. The salesman checks the weight and figures the price based on the what is no doubt an inflated market price. OK I've seen this before so I say "so what is your best price." He smiled and we were able to knock it down about another 9%. It was a fun negotiation and when he found out it was a BD gift he dropped a little more. I am sure his profit was fine and more importantly we both were happy so that means we will likely come back. Pound wise and penny foolish. .

Still following!

Kathie

So glad you were able to buy some double ikat! It is beautiful, isn't it?

kja

@ jacketwatch: Speaking of modernity among traditions … most, if not all of my drivers, had cell phones; my guide at Tenganan stopped several times to text; ATMs and wifi seemed ubiquitous….

@ Kathie: Oh my, yes, double ikat is quite beautiful! I treasure the piece I got for myself, and am confidant that the person to whom I will give the other piece – an artist who once worked with textiles – will treasure hers.


Day 28: Bali -- Ubud

• Starting my day with an omelette at a café associated with my hotel, I was surprised to find that
• A group of four women were beginning to harvest the rice on the field outside my room! I found it fascinating to watch: They put a large, tall basket in the field and then staked four tall poles around it. Using those poles, they then partially surrounded the basket with a shield that reached far above the top of the container. The open space was just wide enough for one of them to reach in – what a clever way to minimize loss! Using hand-held scythes, women cut a handful of plants at a time, and then swept up armfuls to take to this collection point. There someone would forcefully pound them against the container through the space in the shield, and then toss the stems to the side. Later, I saw them tossing grain in large woven baskets – threshing? (I’m no farm girl!) I couldn’t stop thinking about how hard all of that must be on their backs….

• My first stop of the day was the Agung Rai Museum of Art, aka ARMA. What a delightful place! With several interesting, and nicely curated, collections of traditional and contemporary Balinese art and an extensive array of glorious and diverse gardens (particularly in the resort area), I found much to appreciate here. After a pleasant stop for a complimentary beverage in it’s café, I began another

• long walk through Ubud. I couldn’t resist yet another stop at the Lotus Café. I loved that place! And then, I returned to
• Threads of Life, the fair-trade shop I had visited soon after arriving in Ubud. My goal was to complete all of my annual purchases for family and friends, and although it was difficult – so many wonderful pieces from which to choose! -- I succeeded. It helped to have scoped that shop out in advance. Returning to
• my hotel, I noticed that the women who had been harvesting the rice field were just leaving and only a quarter or third of the field was yet to be harvested. Wow! I took a
• Quick dip in the pool, freshened up, and soon left for

• Mozaic Restaurant, where I had a very pleasant and tasty meal (if not quite so outstanding as some reviews suggest). When it was time to return,
• I bargained for a taxi. The driver said 110K IDR, I said 50K IDR, he said OK. Period. That was easy! Except….
• he apparently didn’t know where my hotel was. When I realized he was confused, I began to look, and when I thought we were near my hotel, I signaled that he could let me out. My bad: We were actually some distance away. Always good to have nice constitutional after dinner, right? ;-) I finally reached the hotel.


Day 29: Bali to Doha

• After an inexplicable delay in obtaining breakfast – during which I watched women return to the rice field to finish their harvesting – I finally left for
• Ubud’s Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary. What a treat! I loved watching the monkeys interact with each other, whether tending their young or playing or eating or defending their territories or mating. I had a few unexpected moments:

… While standing near a stair rail, I reached for my water bottle and … OMG, I smacked a monkey full in the face with my elbow! I jumped and shrieked; he/she jumped and shrieked…! I kept saying “I’m sorry .. ma’af .. I’m sorry” (as though that would help) as I tried to remind myself to NOT look the monkey directly in the eyes (per the warnings on signs around the park). Fortunately, it was an adolescent, not an alpha, and we all soon returned to normal.

… Later, three adolescents jumped onto the water bottle I was holding. OMG, they were strong! – but the park signs had also said to not give the monkeys anything plastic, so I held on to the best of my ability. They proceeded to claw through the plastic, spraying us all with water … and still I held on. And then a fourth monkey jumped onto my shoulder and began trying to remove my hairband. Perpaps more in shock than anything else, that was my limit – I spun and shook my arms and let go of the water bottle and, I’m glad to say, soon found myself monkey free. Except that
… The monkeys now had my plastic bottle. I watched until one assumed control, unscrewed the top, shook it out, and – finding it was empty – threw it away with a gesture that my antropomorphizing self found oddly like a disgusted shrug (all that, for nothing?!?). I was glad that the bottle landed where I could reach it, so I could dispose of it properly.

… As all of this unfolded, a young English-speaking woman shouted to her friends that they should hold plastic things where the monkeys might reach for them, because it would be fun to watch. I could have smacked her! While I struggled to think of a constructive response, a monkey snatched something from her backpack and tossed it into a nearby and very deep ravine. I heard her scream, “I just paid 3 million IDR for that!” IME, "karma" is rarely so rapid. ;-)

• Once back at my hotel, I found that the rice field how now been completely harvested, and the four women were gone. Awesome!
• I finished packing, grateful that I had been able to arrange a late (2 p.m.) check-out. Carefully packing the gifts, sorting things between on-flight and checked, making sure I had what I needed for my stop in Doha, etc. -- I was just barely able to finish up by then.
• Because Amik was to pick me up at 3:30, I thought I might have just enough time to walk a bit of the “unchanged” street in Ubud, so I headed to desk to pay…
• and found that Amik was already there! ??? He thought that I would like the museum we had skipped on our “museum” day (and that we had skipped because I took longer than expected at every place we did visit that day … and he thought that if he got there and saw me -- and YES, he KNEW I might not be back until 3:30! – well, he thought he’d be there to make it an option. OMG!!!

• So I paid the hotel and Amik took me to
• the Rudana Museum. And yes, I did enjoy it, and the attached gallery and grounds, immensely. What a gift!

• After another interesting and enjoyable conversation, we arrived at Denpasar’s airport, where I bid farewell to delightful Amik. I’m so lucky to have found him!
• I bought some “Pod” coffee (thanks, marmot, for making sure I knew which brands were Indonesian!) And so began
• My LONG journey back to the U.S.

• If you go by local time, I reached Doha just before midnight – about 9.5 hours after taking off. I went straight to the hotel, checked in, and then headed for
• the spa, where I had reserved another massage. The masseuse was the same woman who had treated me at the beginning of my trip, and she remembered me – I guess she doesn’t get many “massage newbies”! ;-) I enjoyed my 30-minute massage, even though it seemed – and by my newfound standards -- was so short! And then
• a long soak in the spa’s jacuzzi and to bed!


Day 30: Return to the U.S.

• I managed about 5 hours of sleep before quickly preparing to depart.
• The flight of nearly (more than?) 15 hours was not particularly easy, at least in economy. I’m not criticizing the service … just noting the obvious.

Later:
• Not surprisingly, it took me a while to recover from jet lag, aching muscles, and the wear and tear of a month-long trip, but
• I remain convinced that I am very fortunate to have seen a bit of this extraordinary part of the world – WELL worth every ache and pain!


(to be continued with just one more post… )

kja

Oops! What I bought at the airport was delicious “Pod” chocolate. Sorry!

Kathie

lol, love your story about the clueless visitor suggesting to hold plastic where the monkeys could reach it. Yup, karma!

You really had a marvelous trip. Thanks for bringing us along!

dgunbug

Sad to see the journey ending as it was so much fun to follow along with you. Your writing is always terrific and your reports are filled with a wealth of information. Looking forward to your wrap up. Thanks again.

jacketwatch

Its nice to see you are getting the hang of that bargaining thing. .

Those monkeys can be aggressive. When we were in Jaipur I had a bag of snacks. Well the monkeys came around and bam! next thing I know one of them just ripped the bag and all thats were on the ground. Well the monkeys came out of no where to gather them and so his a goat much to their anger. One of the monkeys hissed and pulled at the goats ear but he was oblivious to all this. he just kept eating like nothing happened. A few days later another monkey walked up to me. This time I had not snacks but gave him what I did have, a Halls cough drop. He took it, put it in his mouth and scampered off. Who knows maybe he had a sore throat. . As for that gal who lost her H2O hopefully lesson learned. You are on their turf. .

Thank you for a wonderful TR. You wee able to paint such nice pictures of all your experiences so it was easy to follow and also easy to appreciate too. You have memories you will not ever forget.

I look forward to the final installment. .

kja

@ Kathie: It was a marvelous trip, in part because I had such generous help from so many people when planning it, and also because I was following in some very well chosen footprints – thank you!

@ dgunbug: Thank you again – I appreciate your compliments and am glad you enjoyed reading along!

@ jacketwatch: The thing the monkey took from the idiot’s backpack was not a bottle of water, not at about $230! From the size and shape, I think it was probably a (single) ikat in a plastic bag. Thanks again for your many kind words and for sharing some of your travel experiences as you read along.


Some final thoughts on my time in Bali:

Like my experiences in Singapore and Java, my experiences in Bali contributed to the things that made this trip as a whole, very special – but the things I’ve already mentioned were the things that contributed to the diversity of my experiences. So I’ll now turn to the things I liked best and least about my experiences in Bali per se.

What I liked most about Bali:

Without doubt, the gentle kindness and gracious hospitality of the Balinese …
… the welcome I received from so many people, whether they were celebrating preparations for cremation, giving offerings for new-found health, forgiving my inability to pay for a beer, just smiling as I passed them, or waving to me as they harvested rice …
… and the eager willingness of so many people to share Balinese culture and traditions with me … and
… the extraordinarily good fortune I had in finding a driver as delightful, accomodating, knowledgeable, and responsive as Amik.
… The spectacularly glorious scenery, from voluptuously curving rice terraces glimpsed in a stunning variety of lights through the shimmering silhouettes of distant volcanos against a setting sun; from the diverse and dense vegetation of a coffee plantation through the limitless waters of the sea gently lapping at a pebbled shore (while producing a wonderful sound); from still lakes, surrounded by mountains or nestled in a vast caldera, and topped by incredibly tall, white clouds, through a harbor with a volcano as backdrop and mountain spurs and inlets extending as far as I could see.
… Museums, where I savored art and gardens and prehistoric treasures and masks and …
… gorgeous temples with stunning meru and offering-bedecked alters … and fresh flowers behind a statue’s ear … and the many, many offerings scattered throughout the island – in front of homes and businesses and whatever.
… The textiles, oh, such glorious textiles! And other arts and traditions – the magnificent legong, the delight of the kecak, gamelan, palm-leaf manuscripts, and SO much more!
… The sights, smells, and tastes of the night market in Gianyar and so many other wonderful foods: delicious upscale meals … scrumptious Balinese desserts … an awesome chicken curry in pineapple … freshly prepared nasi goreng … not to mention mangosteen tea and REALLY freshly roasted coffee and SO much more!
… Watching monkeys interact with each other and swimming with gloriously colored fish and watching a flock of magnificent birds take off against a setting sun …
… being called “Madame” rather than “missus” (as in East Java, too).
… Seeing a woman at Tampaksiring who was trying, so very gently, to prepare her infant son for its cold waters …
... and scarecrows made of sarong.

What I liked least about Bali:

• First and foremost, the behavior of all-too-many tourists of Ubud – and I don’t mean the extent to which tourism has come to dominate that city (which is, IMO, a very thorny issue), but rather their behaviors: the imperviousness of so many tourists to the offerings that had been placed, with reverence, on sidewalks … the apparent lack of any effort by so many to learn how to say even the most basic of civilities (really, saying thank you – terima kasih! – is just not that hard!) … the all-too-frequent lack of civility with which all-too-many tourists treated the Balinese (and others!)
• As I had seen in Java, the frightening youth of so many motorcyclists, and their failure to use helmets …
• ... and the apparent lack (or severe limitations to the availability) of public transportation and other signs of how difficult life can be for the hardworking people of this island…
• … and lest I forget (;-) ) the heat and humidity, OMG, the heat and humidity!!!

And once again, none of these “liked leasts” held a candle to the “liked mosts” – not even the heat and humidity!

For me, this trip was, indeed, a wonderfully memorable treat. I am deeply grateful that I had the opportunity to travel to such an intriguing part of the world, and I know that I am a better and richer person for the experience. OK, before I use up my quota of superlatives….


My sincere thanks to all of you who took this vicarious journey with me! While firmly committed to the freedoms of solo travel, I also treasure the opportunity to share my experiences with others. Many, many thanks to all of you who have been my travel companions as I relived these steps and who chimed in now and again to let you know you were with me -- I have greatly appreciated your expressions of interest and your kind words along the way. I will miss finding your words on this thread each day when I check in. I wish you all many wondrous travel moments ahead!

I will, of course, continue to respond to posts on this thread, and for those who come upon this thread in the future, please let me know if you found information of value in my words.

tripplanner001

Thank you, kja, for taking us along with you. I truly enjoyed the journey and cannot wait to read about your next adventure.

marmot

kja, I'll miss reading your daily installments and hearing your voice as you reflect on the wonders and absurdities of Indonesia. Couldn't you just keep going and give us daily rundowns after you're back home?

Come back soon.

MaryW

Travelling along with you has been inspirational and will probably lead me back to Bali. The willingness of the people to share their culture is undoubtedly in response to your obvious interest and understanding which I think is something they must rarely find in most tourists now. As you say, many tourists are oblivious to even the most basic civility. I think you chose very well in the areas you travelled and those you avoided.

And glad to read the monkey scored this time. I wonder if the woman got her package back from the ravine or if the monkeys are now sporting a nice cape.

Thanks again and I look forward to your next trip.

kja

@ tripplanner001: I’m so glad you came along with me and enjoyed the journey! And I can’t wait to begin contemplating my next adventure – but oh dear, so many enticing options! To me, choosing is always both exciting and dreadful.

@ marmot: I found Indonesia filled with wonders, and certainly encountered no more absurdities there than I find at home in the U.S. -- maybe even fewer! Your paraphrase of Barbara Kingsolver’s words continues to resonate with me – such a rich country, so full of poor people…. Thank you for that poignantly apt summary, and thank you so much for all the help you gave me as I planned this trip. Every so once in a while, if you think of it, perhaps you could smile or say “terima kasih” for me to something or someone -- maybe one of the amazing heritage textiles in the region, or better yet, one of their makers.

@ MaryW: I love the idea of one of those monkeys sporting a nice cape – and hope that the forgiving creature I inadvertently struck in the face gets all the time s/he wants to flaunt it. ;-) And I also hope there are many tourists who are interested and understanding and appreciative, and who I simply didn’t see because they were off enjoying their opportunities to explore and learn about Indonesian culture, rather than roaming the shops and streets of Ubud – I need to remind myself that I wouldn’t have seen them! Enjoy your next trips to Singapore, Bali, and (of course) South Korea, where I trust you will take a moment to add my vicarious “kamsamnida” to something you think would catch my eye and make me smile.

jacketwatch

Sorry to see an end to this wonderful TR. I hope you are planning another trip soon. .

You entice us to want to go to where you have been, especially Bali though we would have to do that when the weather is not so hot and humid if thats possible.

I suppose that few are travelers that appreciate the cultures you saw like you did. I once saw a US guy really ream out a hotel clerk in IST. and man I felt bad. He did not deserve to be spoken to like that. After Mr. big mouth left I told the clerk just that. As it turned out this guy was on the same cruise as us but we never saw him on the ship. Thank God.

Our guide in HCMC told us that at least 30 people per month are killed there in vehicular accidents and most are on motorcycles. I don't recall if they have helmet laws or of so how they are enforced. Here in Il. we don't have helmet laws for motorcyclists or at least I don't think so as it seems most don't wear them. You would think insurance companies would raise hell about this as the ultimate cost gets passed to them but I just don't get it.

Again thanks for a great TR, one that many here made a point of following it was that good.

Cheers, Larry. .

kja

@ jacketwatch / Larry: Thank you again for your lovely compliments and thank you for following along and sharing your thoughts and observations. I hope I’m able to take another trip soon, too!