Kathie

lol - a giant chicken!! I have to admit I've never heard of it, but what an exotic way to view Borobudur!

I'm glad you liked the Phoenix. We loved their breakfasts with extensive Indonesian offerings as well as western and Japanese options. And the pool is very welcome in such a hot place.

The situation with the kraton is very odd. Two branches of the family had a falling out and so divided the kraton. Depending on where you enter you see what one branch or the other of the family wants you to see. There are some amazing things in the kraton which I remember from my first trip, before the family split.

Like you, we loved the gamelon music. And it's amazing how it is everywhere. I liked that the Phoenix had a gamely player in the lobby and/or the restaurant.

Looking forward to more.

thursdaysd

Lucky you missed this:

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-36748008

More incentive to avoid Ramadan.

kja

@ Kathie – the Phoenix is an absolute delight, and as you say, its breakfast buffet is truly extensive. Interesting about the kraton. I’m glad you got to see some of its treasures!

@ thursdaysd – OMG, such a tragic story! Yes, I’m very glad I wasn’t in Java for the end of Ramadan.


<u>Day 11</u>: <b><u>Central Java</b></u> -- <b>Yogyakarta</b> and <b>Candi Prambanan</b>

• I began my day with an extraordinary breakfast at the Phoenix – what a lavish and varied array of delicious foods, all beautifully presented, attentively served, and accompanied (as Kathie just noted) by a gamelan musician. And lets not forget the koi “stream” through the dining area. WOW!!!
• I then took to a taxi to

• <b>Pasar Beringharjo</b>, a very large market where I admired batik, feasted my eyes on all sorts of produce, and savored the rich aromas of spices and traditional medicines. From there, I walked to the
• <b>Museum Sonobudoyo</b>, spending time to appreciate its wonderful collection of Indonesian arts and objects – and IMO, it was an excellent collection!
• I walked around a bit and then took a tuktuk back to the Phoenix, where I met Pri (pronounced “Pre,” like the beginning syllable of many words) -- another wonderful driver. He took me to
• <b>Candi Sambisari</b>, which had been largely buried by lava and, later, excavated and then

• <b>Candi Prambanan</b> – Oooh, Prambanan! Another absolute gem, I was happy to spend almost two hours exploring its nooks and crannies, and I was fortunate to see it close up as the sun set and the lights for the night’s performance came on – each offering unique and awesome highlights and shadows – and with the changes in light, varying awesome glimpses of the sculpted reliefs that adorn this wonderful temple. As the site closed, I headed to the exit
• and was routed through a seemingly endless stretch of souvenier shops: Visitors are not free to exit from just anywhere, rather, they must follow a particular route. Shop after shop, stall after stall…. Similar routing was not uncommon elsewhere in Indonesia, but this path may have been the longest.

• Following a recommendation in Kathie’s report, I had asked Pri earlier whether he knew and would recommend going to Kali Opak for dinner; he had agreed that it would be an excellent choice. Once I claimed my pre-reserved ticked for the ballet, he took me to the very nearby
• <b>Kali Opak</b> for a delicious dinner of grilled fish (gourami again, and again, mouthwatering) on a vine-bedecked terrace overlooking the lush greenery of a slope above a river (which I could hear, but not see). Wonderful! (Thanks so much, Kathie! ) And then:

• the <b>Ramayana Ballet</b> at Prambanan. Magnificent! I had reserved one of the VIP seats, which meant that I had a great view from a comfortable seat. What a special experience! I saw the 2-hour “summary” show; depending on the schedule, one might also be able to see one or more of four shows that, together, tell the full story. I loved the costumes and the make-up and the staging and the music and OMG the absolutely stunning movements of the dancers. Such control! Whether flexing or extending, remaining stable or turning … I don’t have the language to speak of dance, except to say wow Wow WOW!!!
• Once the performance ended, Pri took me back to the Phoenix, where I took a quick dip before settling in for the night, so very thankful for yet another truly amazing day.


<u>Day 12</u>: <b><u>Central Java</b></u> -- <b>Yogyakarta</b> -- <b>Kota Gedi</b> -- <b>Candi Plaosan</b> -- <b>Surakarta</b>

• I began this day with a wonderful massage at the hotel’s spa – with a discounted rate for booking a morning slot, a 55-minute “traditional healing massage with exotic scents” cost about $20 – how could I not! And ooh, that was nice . Then
• another scrumptious and very generous breakfast, and
• preparations to check out of this delightful hotel.

• Meeting Pri again, we went first to
• <b>Kota Gede</b> -- the “Old City”, where I learned how silver filigree jewelry is made, roamed around town and through a colorful market, and visited the Mataram Mosque and parts of the royal cemetery. Back in the car, Pri drove me by
• Prambanan, where I saw its herd of deer and caught a glimpse of Candi Sewu on our way to
• <b>Candi Plaosan</b> – another awesome temple! Now surrounded by rice paddies and with numerous headless Buddhas inside various interior spaces, I was intrigued by both the similarities and differences from other temples in the area.
• I thoroughly enjoyed my conversation with Pri as we headed to Solo – with an impressive command of English and extensive knowledge of the area, he proved a delight.

• Once in Solo, I said farewell to Pri and checked into my hotel – the <b>Royal Surakarta Heritage</b>, where I was upgraded to a lovely room with a mini-fridge that was empty -- something I was to experience at several places on this trip. With no nearby stores, I had to supply it from room service. (But at least I could supply it!) Owned by the same group that owns the Phoenix, this is another very nice hotel with an impressive collection of masks and, through much of the day, a gamelan player in the entry area.
• I took a quick dip in the hotel’s pool and then
• Enjoyed a tasty meal at the hotel’s restaurant. (My upgraded room included half-board. )


To be continued….

marmot

kja, I've greatly enjoyed following your adventures, not the least your expanding insights into the basic lack infrastructure throughout most of the country. The government services we take for granted in developed countries -- education, health care, waste management, transportation and most importantly rule of law -- are inaccessible to many Indonesians. This was said of the Congo (by Barbara Kingsolver) but I think it's apt for Indonesia as well: A rich country full of poor people.

I'm working on a project involving handmade heritage textiles from all over Indonesia and expect to be spending time in Central Java again soon.

kja

@ marmot – Thanks for chiming in, and especially,

• My sincere thanks for your insights into the challenges Indonesians face. Although I try to avoid imposing my standards on the cultures I am fortunate enough to visit, I admit that I had more than a few moments on this particular trip, and specifically in Indonesia, when I was painfully aware of how difficult life must be for so very many people. No one complained – quite in contrast, I encountered incredibly humble and hardworking people who laughed easily and seemed infinitely resourceful in finding ways to bring joy and beauty into their lives. But I was well aware of how impossibly wealthy I must seem to them, and I found it heartbreaking to think of some of the incredibly difficult choices that so many Indonesians seem to face: To let children drive motorcycles, and risk injury or death, to keep them in school; to face the life-long pain of an improperly set bone because one can’t pay for outpatient treatment; to choose to leave one’s spouse and children for months or years at a time, just for the chance to make enough money in a distant and lonely part of the world.
• I know these things happen in my country, too, and I’ve known too many Americans who have faced similar decisions. As a U.S. citizen, I am sometimes appalled and even ashamed of some of my country’s policies, both domestic and international; but I am nonetheless very proud of my country and am well aware that my citizenship gives me privileges that are unimagineable to the vast majority of the world’s people. And despite sometimes inexplicable actions – even the horribly tragic events of the last few days – I remain optimistic that we, as a country, can move forward. Still,
• I was naively ill-prepared for the seeming pervasiveness of some problems in Indonesia, particularly against the backdrop of the area’s history as a colony treasured for its resources. I know – stupid of me, and proof of the dangers of just a little knowledge against a field of substantial ignorance.
• If my comments seem thoughtless or unjust, my sincere apologies -- I also don’t know how to voice these thoughts in the way in which I intend them – with respect and compassion, and without judgment. To say that, “Indonesia is a rich country full of poor people” may be as close as I can get, and I thank you, marmot, for that adaptation of Kingslover’s words.

• IMO, the textiles of the region are extraordinary. I envy, and applaud, your effort to gather them. I felt so fortunate just to see some of them!

marmot

kja, I read your comments as overwhelmingly respectful, compassionate and non-judgmental. I have a feeling you'll be back before too long. My experience is that travel in Indonesia and the rest of Southeast Asia can become a serious addiction.

Nelson

Beautiful writing kja, a pleasure to read! You have perfectly captured the contrasting beauty and ugliness, serenity and chaos, poverty and richness, hassle and relaxation of Asian streets that can be so confusing and fascinating to visitors.

I was going to ask if you will post links to your photographs, but your description of the Borobudur sunrise can't be beat by a photo. My wife and I hiked to the top of Merapi after seeing it from Borobudur, so your description of it emerging from the darkness had special meaning for me.

One of the closest times I ever came to dying was renting a motorcycle in Indonesia. Your descriptions of the streets brought back some white-knuckled memories. Traffic lights, street signs and lane markers, all mere suggestions.

Looking forward to more! Fantastic report, bring it on!

tripplanner001

Exactly, kja. I share your feelings and perceptions of life in countries such as Indonesia and the privileges we enjoy at home.

Kathie

Wonderful report, kja! I'm so glad you enjoyed the Ramayana Ballet (and the wonderful gamelon accompaniment) and my restaurant recommendation nearby.

You managed to see so much - a tribute to your organization and planning. I will admit there were places Cheryl and I didn't get to even though they were on my list and even though I had been there before.

Looking forward to more...

kja

@ marmot: Terima kasih banyak. I know I would love to return to Indonesia; I also know that I came away with a treasure trove of memories that will last a lifetime.

@ Nelson: What lovely compliments – thank you! It seems that you, too, have a knack for capturing the contrasts of the area in words … and in deeds. Hiking Merapi must have been nearly as wonderful as renting a motorcycle was terrifying!

@ tripplanner001: Indeed, privileged at home and privileged to be able to travel.

@ Kathie: Oh yes, that evening – sunset at Candi Prambanan and gourami at Kali Opak and the exquisite Ramayana ballet and gamelan orchestra – was utterly magical , and I thought of you and Cheryl, and the inspiration you had given me, often. Thank you!

Nelson

This TR just has made me go look at my scanned slides from our trip! The Ramayana Ballet and gamelon at Prambanan was mesmerizing. By luck we were there on a date in June when there was a performance. I have photos of the ballet dancers that seem to mimic the scenes of the relief sculptures on the ruins. Fascinating.

Thanks again for the report!

kja

@ Nelson: You were lucky to hit a performance of the Ramanaya Ballet at Prambanan on a night when there was a performance. In contrast, I reserved my ticket before I booked my flight. ;-)



<u>Day 13</u>: <u><b>Central Java</u></b> -- <b>Surakarta (Solo)</b>

• The breakfast buffet at the Royal Surakarta Heritage would have seemed much more impressive if I hadn’t just left the Phoenix. ;-) It offered a wide array of Eastern and Western options, and staff were very helpful and attentive. My first stop of the day was the
• <b>Mangkunegaran Palace</b>, where I literally almost passed out from the heat and humidity. Once sufficiently hydrated, my guide -- the palace can be visited ONLY with a guide – proceeded to take me around. Unfortunately, my interest in the displays seemed to vary in inverse proportion to the guide’s idea of what to highlight – the more interesting I thought something, the less inclined he seemed to even stop to comment on it, and vice versa.
• At one point, this guide told me that a Javanese man is expected to have five things: (1) a home, (2) transportation, (3) a kris (an ornamental – and potentially deadly – knife to be used in defense of one's honor), (4) at least one songbird (oh, THAT’S why there are so many caged birds around!), and (5) a wife. I asked what a woman was expected to have; he laughed. I asked again, and after a very deep breath, he explained to me – with decided patience -- that a woman does not need to have anything. She is meaningful because she is one of the five things a man is to have. And, he was sure I realized, since a man can’t have children without her, she is not just meaningful, she is also important. Hmm. I would have found this explanation more satisfying if I were sure he was speaking of the past.

• I then went to the <b>Radya Pustaka Museum</b>, which – despite the evidence that the building could could use some TLC -- holds a worthy collection of various objects of significance to Javanese culture, many of obvious excellence in craftsmanship or design and generally beautifully displayed, if in showcases that could use a good dusting.
• With the help of the nearby tourist information office, I located a place just a few blocks away where I could get a beer – aah! Refreshed, I turned to

• The stunning <b>House of Danar Hadi</b>, a museum that holds a breathtaking array of batik spanning time, region, and style. An extremely informative guide provided a wealth of interesting details, and a few very experienced batik workers were on hand, allowing the opportunity to watch various techniques for the application of wax. They apparently work 6 days a week, but get off an hour early on Saturdays. Another reminder of how fortunate I am to have been born when and where I was, and how much I owe to those who fought for labor rights. I browsed the Danar Hadi shop briefly and then headed to the

• <b>Pasar Klewer</b> (a traditional market), which was closing up for the day. Most of the stalls that were still open sold clothing, but there were a few produce stands still open, too.
• Returning to my hotel, I took a quick dip in the pool and then a long bubble bath in my room’s oversized tub next to windows affording views of the lovely decorative objects in my room, which were from the region. I then walked to

• <b>Taman Sriwedari</b> for a performance of <u>wayang orang</u> (a masked dance, which I believe can mean people with actual masks, or people using pronounced and generally recognized facial expressions, “virtual” masks). The auditorium was slowly filling with lots of families; two young mothers near the front waved me into the empty seat between them, and we shared a lot of laughter as their children amused themselves. Eventually,
• a gamelan orchestra began to play. The first performance was a dance by six young ladies who seemed a bit too nervous to fully embrace their roles. And then
• masked segments of the performance began. Despite the merits of the performance,
• I was tired, hungry, and hot, and the crowd was loud, and many people were smoking (another surprise to me: how many Indonesians smoke); I left after only a half-hour or so.
• As on my walk to the theater, I saw many food stands along the way, each sending out inviting aromas. Some food stands had a few tables; many more were instead surrounded by small carpets where people sat, sometimes whole families. And many of those carpets seemed to hold young couples, seated so that it was clear that there was space between them, but with eyes only for each other.
• Returning to my hotel, I had another tasty dinner.


<u>Day 14</u>: <u><b>Central Java</u></b> -- <b>Solo</b> – <b>Sangiran</b> -- <b>Candi Sukuh</b>

• Along with a variety of other tasty treats, my breakfast this day included a delicious black rice porridge, a local specialty that one of the servers suggested I might like. And I did!!!
• I then took one of the hotel’s tuktuks to

• the <b>Kraton Surakarta</b>. Unfortunately, much of this palace was destroyed by fire, and while a few parts allow glimpses into an illustrious past, many sections are in sad need of repair.
• An odd moment as I left: In the absence of a shared language, the tuktuk driver who brought me to the kraton had – I think? -- been insistent about waiting for me, and I had – I think? -- agreed, but – oh no! -- I wasn’t at all sure that the driver who swept me up was the right one, especially after the aggressiveness of the tuktuk drivers in Jogja! I asked him to stop, acting as though I desparately wanted a photo of something I had just seen, and used that moment to discretely confirm that he was my driver. ;-) He was.
• Back at the hotel, I met my next driver: Didi (dee-dee), another very nice gentleman, but in this case, language was a bit of a barrier. He spoke more English than I spoke Indonesian, but neither of us knew enough of the other language to do more than share a few very limited thoughts. Thankfully, just a few words and a lot of gestures can actually communicate a lot!
• Not far from Solo, I saw, first-hand, another disadvantage of a road system that basically routes everyone along the same streets: We reached an area where the road was being resurfaced, and traffic was reduced to a single lane each way. With so much traffic, I can understand that the choice was to block out a LONG stretch of road for a LONG time, and we were there for a very long time indeed! Motorcycles could, however, proceed. (Yet another reason, tripplanner001, why they are a preferred means of transportation in the area.)

• Our first stop was <b>Sangiran</b>, where a museum celebrates the discovery of Java man. I thought the museum’s displays were well designed to educate visitors. I especially liked that it provided information on the local scientists who had been critical to the discoveries. The museum as a whole was, unfortunately, a bit out-of-date, but then, discoveries about our evolutionary heritage have been so frequent in recent years that the lag is, perhaps, understandable. I was glad to see the number of children and adolescents there – so nice to see young people exploring science!

• Didi then began the LONG drive to our next destination, Candi Sukuh. Back through the road-block (with another LONG wait) and into Solo, out in another direction, along seemingly endless stretches of continuous buildings, and then – finally! – into areas dominated by rice paddies and various fields. And then, at long last,
• we began to climb, slowly at first, and then more and more steeply…. I think I caught some climpses of Gudung Lawu in the distance; I won’t swear to it. The strips of terraced land to either side became more and more narrow and the height of the barriers between terraces became taller and taller and it had started raining and we were on a very narrow, twisty road and then, suddenly

• There we were, at <b>Candi Sukuh</b>!
• And it was closed.
• But a man came out, Didi spoke with him, and in I went.
• Candi Sukuh was built in an architectural style that was different than that of the other temples I visited in Java, and was also distinct in the obvious eroticism of many of its reliefs. Sections were undergoing work and covered with scaffolds, but there was still much to see – including glorous views out over the lush and misted countryside.

• After I finished a leisurely visit, Didi and I descended the mountain as the sun set, offering some dramatic skies, if not views of any volcanos.
• Once back at my hotel, I took a chance: Could the spa fit me in? Yes! My first (ever) facial was decidedly enjoyable – I can see why people seek them out!
• Another satisfying dinner before preparing for an early morning departure….


To be continued….

tripplanner001

Glad to hear that your journey to Candi Sukuh was not for naught. And I just added it to my list for the next time I go to Java as we never made it this far east on the island during our visit.

Kathie

Wow - you really packed in the sights!

I am glad you were able to see Candi Sukuh. It is so different from the other temples. The architectural style looked to me like it had been transported from central America. The two times I was there, there were young couples making offerings for fertility.

When we were last in Solo, it turned out the batik museum was closed. I was quite disappointed - glad you got to see it.

Looking forward to more!

Lolazahra

This is really good. You have me telling my kids, the next time we go to Indonesia, we will go back to Bali but will also explore Java...They are like mom, you swore we will go to Latin America before we take another trip anywhere in Africa, Asia or Europe! I am like, I know, I know, but I am reading this awesome report...

But I am mad at you too. I am supposed to be writing an important report, and I keep getting distracted by checking to see if you have written anything new! LOL!

Great stuff!

kja

@ tripplanner001: It was so nice of the man at Candi Sukuh to let me in! Now, prepare for a vicarious journey to East Java….

@ Kathie: Yes, I sure do pack a lot into my trips -- when say that I like to take advantage of every moment of every trip, I mean it! In fact, with all the time in cars (lovely, air-conditioned cars ) and on massage tables, I had more “down” time than usual on this trip. ;-) I do hope you and Cheryl get to see the Batik Museum in Solo some day – it is outstanding. And what a treat it must have been to see the offerings for fertility at Candi Sukuh!

@ Lolazahra: Sounds like I’m causing you trouble on both the family and work fronts – so sorry! ;-) I’m glad you are enjoying my report; thanks for letting me know!


<u>Day 15</u>: <u><b>Java</u></b> -- <b>Solo</b> to <b>Blitar</b>

• Making sure I included black rice porridge in my breakfast, I enjoyed the hotel’s varied breakfast buffet and welcoming service one last time. I checked out and
• took a taxi to the train station, where I easily purchased a ticket for, and soon boarded, a very comfortable <b>train to Blitar</b>. (I was happy to note that announcements were offered in English, among other languages.)
• I spent most of this 4.5 hour ride relaxing and catching up on my journal. Despite the rain that prevented me from seeing the volcanos of this pat of Java, I enjoyed the lush and varied scenery.
• A very interesting, articulate, and thoughtful woman who was traveling with her young son engaged me in a discussion about the U.S. I was delighted to have a chance to interact with a modern Indonesian woman, but also felt incredibly frustrated to be unable to answer her well-considered questions, not because of a language barrier, but because I had no answers to some of her questions about the attitudes of some Americans, our foreign and domestic policies, etc.
• Approaching Blitar, there were hints of volcanos in the distance…. And then the station and a young man named Jeckycen met me and took me to

• the <b>Hotel Tugu Blitar</b>, noted for its suites. I was not staying in one of them. Frankly, my room was about as basic as it gets – but I knew that when I booked. The room was, at least, acceptable. And staying here had a number of advantages, including admirable service, some very pleasant common areas, and
• a high tea that offered a choice of teas and a sample of several very tasty treats. It was served in a lovely, covered, open-air terrace that was decorated with some beautifully crafted Javanese artifacts.

• The city square – <b>Alun Alun</b> -- was just a few blocks away, so I went there and found couples enjoying a tree-shrouded gazebo and a soccer team practicing on a large field and people making use of public exercise equipment and mothers watching their children in a play area and – as the sun began to set – more and more people approaching the surrounding food carts and vendors….
• There was a mosque to one side with architectural details that seemed decidedly Dutch to me (I could be wrong!),
• and on my way back to my hotel, the arrangement of glass bricks in a building or two struck me as Art Deco.

• I then took advantage of the hotel's delightful spa – a massage, “lulur” scrub (in this case, ground rice, turmeric, ginger, nuts, cinnamon, sandalwood, and a bit of jasmine oil), followed by a bath in a flower-filled tub. Aaah…! This treatment took more than 2 hours, and I could barely walk afterwards -- what a treat!
• A nice meal at the hotel’s restaurant provided a pleasant end to my day.


<u>Day 16</u>: <u><b>East Java</u></b> -- <b>Blitar +</b>

• Breakfast buffet options were limited and were primarily Indonesian, but they were tasty. (Only a few rooms seemed to be occupied, so the selection might be wider when more fully booked.) The serving staff could not have been nicer! Then
• Jeckycen met me as scheduled for the first stop of our day trip –

• <b>Telaga Pacuh</b>, a small, nearly still pond with rice paddies to one side, a small glade on another, and huge old trees lining the rest. A couple of fishermen were whiling away their time, and a young couple seemed so absorbed in each other’s company that I can’t say they paid much attention to the pond. Fed by a natural spring, I had read that it was once considered a sacred place, and I could see why! Jeckycen admitted that he had never heard of it and asked why I had wanted to see it; I explained, and also pointed out that it might be a nice place to bring a date. He didn’t seem convinced. ;-)

• From there, we went to <b>Candi Penataran</b> – another jaw-droppingly amazing temple complex, built much later than those of central Java. Some of the details were breathtaking, like the intertwined dragons’ tails along the bases of some of the structures. (I thought of Cheryl’s inspiring photos while here!) Too,
• although there were others there, it was not nearly so crowded as the other major temple ruins I had visited, and I enjoyed the chance to move about quite freely.
• I also spent a few moments watching a hen and her eight following chicks, two of whom kept rolling down the hill they were trying to climb. I hope they made it up! Next:

• <b>Candi Sawentar</b>, another temple that had been partially buried in lava, but much more angular and geometric in design than any of the other temples I remember visiting. And then on to

• <b>Kampung Coklat</b>, which was <u>not</u> what I expected. I had thought I was visiting a working chocolate plantation where I could see how cacao is grown and chocolate produced. I entered what seemed much more like a huge food hall.
• There was an area with what I assumed must be cacao trees, and as I was looking at them, a pair of young staff approached me and asked if I wanted to learn more. Yes! A few minutes later, we were done with that. ;-) (Literally: they showed me a bean that was ready to plant and let me push it into a small pot of soil; they showed me how much a cacao grows in a week; they told me the age of the trees I was seeing. That was pretty much it.) Then one of them
• treated me to a very tasty cold chocolate drink and took me to an area where I could ice a chocolate lollipop. When in Rome….
• I asked if the facility included a place showing chocolate production, and was then taken to a very small room where chocolate poured from a large vat into a small pan; a single employee worked there. A far cry from the Broc chocolate factory in Switzerland, or Hershey’s in Pennsylvania! It turns out that the cacao beans are shipped to Malaysia to be crushed, and then reimported and combined here with powdered milk, sugar, and butterfat. Next:
• the shop, where I tasted several very good chocolates. I really appreciated one tasting tray which allowed comparison of 80%, 90%, and 100% dark chocolates -- interesting!
• I can’t imagine that I would have put Kampung Coklat on my wish list for the area had I known what I would experience, but I will also say that I enjoyed it and have no regrets about spending an hour there. And my kudos to the staff!

• As on many other days in Java, the air was thick enough (<u>so</u> very hot and humid! ) that I could easily have been convinced, on the way back to the Tugu Blitar, that the island doesn’t really have any volcanos.
• The hotel had sent a cooler along with the car – a complimentary platter of fresh fruit, cold mineral water, and cool cloth napkins. How nice! I tried to convince Jeckycen to share the fruit, but he declined.

• Then, despite the weather, I did one of my favorite things when traveling – I took a long, rambling, aimless walk.
• I was greeted, whether shyly or boldly, but lots of children, some of whom decided to follow me while pretending they weren’t – so cute!
• I learned that being located by one of Blitar’s ravines is probably not a prime selling point for real estate – each glimpse I had into a ravine showed a stream and a LOT of litter. (I would guess that rushing water during the rainy season can be quite problematic.)
• Part of my walk took me through an area that seemed quite poor, but no matter how small and cluttered the space in front of a residence, there was at least a small area that had been carefully cleaned and a songbird or flowering plant.
• I also walked through an area of spacious homes surrounded (and largely hidden) by lush vegetation. And,
• near the Alun Alun, a flock of HUGE white birds took off from a tree just as I walked beneath, and then alit again, and took off again… the air seemed alive with their beating wings!
• It was a long walk, but a welcome one. Then
• Back to my hotel for a quiet evening and another pleasant dinner.


… to be continued

jacketwatch

A little late here but back reading your report!.

First of all way up there I meant that in India most cars DO have dents or scratches so looks like they are far more careless there about driving. Of course when to get in a lane there you get on the gas and the horn its no wonder. .

Your description of the Dieng Plateau is idyllic. I suppose the locals are very friendly and must love it to see foreigners so they want their pics taken. yes after a bit it can be tiresome but also seems like they honor you by doing so. How cello to have coffee in dodos house!! For me this is an element of travel that is priceless like your trip, just like your trip! How cool was it for that cat to honor you as well. . I bet the beer was good too. . And why a giant chicken?? Whats chicken to them, like cows to Indians?

We too have encountered aggressive touts. I have said no like a thousand times but what seems to work best is to say nothing, make no eye contact and walk away. I don't know what snakefuit is but last week at the Taste of Chicago I had sausage made from rabbit and yes rattlesnake. Not bad at all.

Oksena yes I do love Singapore. If I won like 300 mil. in the lotto I would move there, at least to skip Chicagos winters. .

Candi Sambisari. Is that sort of like a smaller version of Pompei?

It sounds like your guides are so knowledgable and so affordable. Wow. This is impressive. A well schooled guide adds immeasurably to your experience but they often cost a lot of $$$.

I was watching an episode of Anthony Bourdains parts Unknown and it was from the Philippines. There as an acronym, FWA or Filipinos Working Abroad and at the beginning of this show you see so many at airports leaving to be away from their families for long stretches just to make money to make ends meet at home. Its very sad. Cruise ship employees are composed of many from all over the world in this situation. .

Sad to see of womens status there. I hope this was an isolated opinion ands that things are changing if it is true. Also sad to see how many smoke there but I do believe this is the case in most of Asia.

You mentioned that at Blitar the breakfast options were mostly Indonesian. So what is a typical Indo breakfast if you can recall?

This is a great TR! Still following! Obviously. .

kja

@ jacketwatch: Wow, you are not only reading, but reading attentively!

• Oh, if the requests to have a picture taken with me had only stopped at the Dieng Plateau! Instead, the requests seemed never-ending in Java, and even in a few of the less touristed parts of Bali. I don’t understand the motivation, but I’m sure there was nothing unkind about it – I think your phrasing is right on target: They honored me by asking.
• I completely agree that the chance to have coffee with Dodo in his house was priceless and the invitation was quite an honor. And I loved that he realized that I would appreciate that wonderfully bizarre "chicken." I admit that I kept wanting to ask, “Via chicken? Via not a duck?” but I suppressed the urge – I don’t think the reference would have been particularly easy to explain. ;-)
• Rabbit sausage and rattlesnake? BYH! Did you like them?

• I visited two temples that had been partially buried in lava and later excavated: Candi Sambisari and Candi Sawentar. I don't think a comparison to Pompeii particular apt: For one thing, it is my understanding – and I could easily be wrong! – that they were already abandoned when they were partially buried. Too, these temples were constructed primarily of lava stone, and although there might have been elements of wood or other combustible material, the structures themselves generally survived the lava flows, and the lava covered only their lower parts. In contrast, Pompeii was destroyed by superheated ash, not lava. In that sense, a comparison to Herculaneum might be more apt – but Herculaneum was completely covered by lava and was, I believe, still a functioning city at the time. And while I don’t know what happens in Italy, the discovery of a partially buried Javanese temple can create some complications: I believe that both of the temples I saw were discovered by farmers, who then lost their property (and so their fields) to excavation and preservation. I read and was told that it creates a dilemma for anyone who stumbles upon a bit of a ruin on his or her land.

• I was very fortunate to work with some excellent guides. As a rule, I prefer to <u>not</u> work with guides, and not just because of the expense (although that is a factor), but also because I like roaming places at my own pace and with a good guidebook or two – and I always load up my Kindle for just those moments! But it turns out that public transportation to many of the things I wanted to see in Java is limited, so trying to see things on my own would have meant using a lot of my very precious time to get to just one or two places. Having traveled so far for this particular “trip of a lifetime,” I opted for the convenience and efficiency afforded by (air-conditioned ) cars, and the concommitant opportunity to make fuller use of my limited time. I was very impressed by the knowledge shown by my guides; I can’t speak to how common that is, but I suspect that the fact that I arranged them through well-established and well-regarded hotels probably meant a greater assurance of knowledge than other methods for locating them.

• As for the role of women, my sense – and again, I could be way off – is that much of both Java and Bali remains deeply traditional, and the traditions involved substantial differentiations of labor, status, and rights between men and women – as has been true in most cultures of most ages. I think it is very hard to change such traditions, so I was impressed by some signs that seemed, to me, to signal a bit of softening of the edges: Several men mentioned that they have taken on some tasks that were traditionally (and apparently are often still) assigned to women – things like helping clean the house or prepare food or changing an infant’s diapers. And certainly, the woman I met on the train to Blitar did not seem to fit into a traditional role, or at least my idea of one. Cultural change is hard, and I suspect that the fact that tourists come to these places, in part, to observe cultural traditions must complicate things.

• The Indonesian breakfast options that I recall most clearly included fried rice with some vegetables and seasonings (sometimes hot, sometimes room temperature); a similar noodle dish (meaning it also had some vegetables and seasonings and was sometimes hot and sometimes cold – the actual ingredients could have been quite different!), the aforementioned black rice porridge served with a cocunut puree, platters of fresh fruit, and a delicious hot soup made of a flavorful chicken broth into which one could add one’s choice of bits of chicken and/or vegetables. One of my favorites, which I saw only once, included halved hard-boiled eggs that had been marinaded in (and were served in) some kind of incredible liquid that turned the eggs nearly purple and tasted devine.

• Thanks so much for following along and asking great questions!


<u>Day 17</u>: <u><b>East Java</u></b> -- <b>Blitar</b> to <b>Malang</b>

• Breakfast again included a limited selection of tasty dishes. I readied for the day, packed, and left my suitcase at the desk before Jeckycen drove me (free of charge, at the hotel’s insistense) to the

• <b>Pasar Burung Dimoro</b> – Blitar’s bird market. As already noted, owning caged birds is common in Java, and I’d heard about frequent contests in which judges assign prizes (including not just the honor of recognition, but also a monetary award) to the best songbirds. This market had a LARGE area in which songbirds were on display – several covered pavillions where various vendors had arranged their cages, surrounded by several stalls that also displayed birds. As I roamed around,
• an older gentleman decided to facilitate my efforts, and he did so very gently: He never approached me directly, but he discreetly signaled which cages I should note, moving from place to place to provide this “advice.” We eventually
• exchanged a few words, and he seemed so pleased! Before I left, I asked if I might take a picture of him, and he absolutely beamed!
• The market also held an area that I believe was used for selling poultry for cooking, an area I skipped. And
• there was a separate area in which large woven cages held what looked from a distance like roosters? Oh, yes – OMG, there’s a cockfight! I walked away as quickly as I could. I did know, in advance, that cockfighting is still practiced in parts of Indonesia; I had no interest in seeing it.
• (Jeckycen had also asked why I wanted to this market – I wonder if he thought it had to do with the cockfights?)

• I then walked to <b>Pasar Legi</b> – Blitar’s traditional market. While enjoying the vibrant colors and beautiful displays of produce, I did what I always do in markets – I asked the vendors if it was OK to take pictures of their goods. With almost no exception, these vendors did not want me to photograph their produce …
• unless I included them in the pictures! They posed, invited their friends in for more shots, asked me to catch them in other poses, called out to others in different parts of the market to tell them to get ready, etc. Lots of laughter all around.
• I soon returned to my hotel for farewells and a another gratis ride with Jeckycen, this time to the train station for my

• <b>train to Malang</b>. During this short (1.5 hour) trip, I caught a few glorious glimpses of distant mountains. Aftr a while, the train began climbing slowly but steadily: Malang is in the mountains and is, I’m glad to say, a bit cooler than the parts of Java I had visited so far.
• Greeted at the station by a driver sent by my hotel, I was soon delivered into attentive hands of the <b>Hotel Tugu Malang</b> staff. What a wonderful hotel! I don’t seek luxury in my travels, so am unaccustomed to the level of service here – WOW!!! Just one example: There was a gorgeous bowl of peelable fruits in the room, along with a fruit knife wrapped in a towel and a finger bowl filled with water and a flower blossom … all replenished daily. I had arrived in time for
• High tea – a range of sweets and savories, one’s choice of teas, all in a beautiful setting and with impeccable service…
• I took a quick dip in the pool before taking advantage of the free 15-minute introductory massage – which I had extended by about an hour at a truly affordable cost. I ended my evening with
• A delicious dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.


<u>Day 18</u>: <u><b>East Java</u></b> -- <b>Malang +</b>

• The hotel offered a choice of either a Western or an Eastern breakfast; I enjoyed my generous Western selection. Afterwards, I walked to the nearby
• <b>Pasar Bunga</b> – Malang’s flower market. Glorious! I think I inadvertently roamed into an area with nurseries and the homes of the florists (oops!), but no one gave me any reason to think I was trespassing. I had just a few minutes for Malang’s
• <b>Pasar Senggol</b> – its bird market, with its row of shops selling cages with songbirds – before

• returning to my hotel to meet Ariadna (sp?), who would be my driver for a visit to several temples circling the area. He didn’t speak much English, but his English trumped my Indonesian, and there weren’t that many things that required communication. I had asked to visit a series of temples that circly Malang, and that’w what we did: We went first to
... <b>Candi Kidal</b>, decorated on 3 sides with a man-bird beast;
... <b>Candi Jago</b>, with its large altar-like sections and intricately carved panels;
... <b>Candi Singosari</b>, where the usual carvings of heads of temple protectors over some doorways had been left oddly incomplete;
... <b>Candi Sumberawan</b>, which seemed to me like the base of a stupa, set in a wooded area with a small statue-decorated grotto to one side and glimpses beyond to a distant waterway in which young boys were skinny-dipping ;-) ; and finally
... <b>Candi Badut</b>, with a particularly graceful Shiva relief to one side.
• Over the course of the day, I caught glimpses of several different and beautiful volcanos, including Mt. Arjuna, Mt. Kawi, and maybe even Mt. Semeru. The massive and extensive Bromo caldera also loomed above the horizon once in a while.

• Once I returned to the hotel, I finalized a plan for a car and driver – actually, a JEEP and driver – for the next day. Arranged by a man at the Tugu’s desk, and at a substantial discound for paying cash, it was much more than I hoped to pay, but I’m not sure I could have gotten a better rate. And at least I had a plan that met my interests in place! I had just enough time to freshen before another
• High Tea in the same lovely setting, but with a completely different set of sweets and savories. I then went for

• A long walk. I started in an area that holds many lovely homes, surrounded by lawns and gardens, that date from the Dutch Colonial days, and then, turning, a long stretch along a divided highway with stunningly glorious (if distant) views of the sun setting behind Mt. Kawi. Turning into a more commercial district, I briefly visited
• Malang’s <b>Alun Alun</b> (city square), where teens were skate-boarding and young couples were strolling, and then – just blocks from my hotel, I
• Took a wrong turn and became completely lost!
• Fortunately, I recognized my error relatively soon, and so got back on track without too much of a detour. Had it been earlier in the day, or had I been less tired (I was TIRED!), I would have welcomed the opportunity. I am glad I saw a few off-the-beaten track areas where locals seemed to congregate; I was also

• glad to get back to my hotel and off my feet.
• After a brief, but relaxing, dip in the pool, I
• Took a tour of the hotel itself, which has a number of interesting areas and some museum-quality antiques and Indonesian and Peranakan (Indonesian with Chinese heritage) artifacts. I then enjoyed another
• Delicious dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.

To be continued….

tripplanner001

Malang sounds like a place I would enjoy. How do the temples there compare to what you saw in Central Java?

The noodle dish you referred to is probably mee goreng and the fried rice nasi goreng.

kja

@ tripplanner001:
• IMO, Borobudur and Prambanan – both in Central Java -- are extraordinary and well deserving of their UNESCO designation as World Heritage Sites. (Candi Mendut, with its unusual seated Buddha -- mentioned upthread by Kathie -- also merits mention, and is included in the UNESCO designation of the Borobudur complex, of which it is part.)
• Although I’m no expert, I also thought Candi Plaosan and Candi Sukuh (in Central Java), and Candi Penataran (in East Java) awesome.
• For me, all the rest were “icing on the cake.” And I like icing! ;-) But they were generally smaller, and while I found unique elements to appreciate in each (and was glad that the range of my exposure helped me better identify the features that were unusual or particularly well crafted or whatever), none of the others had the same WOW factor of the “major” temples listed above – at least for me.
• As you’ve undoubtedly noted, that means that I found a number of jaw-droppers in Central Java, but only one jaw-dropper in East Java.

... Those names of dishes sound familiar – thanks!