A first time for everything in Japan
 

We travelled from Perth, Australia, to Japan on 5th May and departed 25th May. Two long days of travel only left us with 18 days for our first timers trip to Japan. It needed to be a relaxing time while ticking off 2 things a day that were at the top of my wish list for Japan. Because of mobility issues it couldn't involve many steps.
We stayed in Hiroshima, Kyoto, Kanazawa, Nikko, Tokyo. All our accommodation was booked 6 months, sometimes longer, in advance, and was a mix of hostel, hotel, machiya, and airbnb.
I did a lot of research in advance , and received help on this forum too, but 3 things confounded me to the point i didn't bother with them at all and found it made no difference to the trip not having them.
1/ Didn't take a cell phone, had no travel apps. Getting lost became part of our journey and we soon found no Japanese person would let us stay lost for more than 2 minutes of our staring blankly at a map or train timetable. Someone would always take the time to stop and ask if they could help us, frequently going right out of their way.
2/ Mobile wifi. Speedy free wifi at every place we stayed. Not a secure way to use laptop however i was only using it to check email for possible changes to accommodation, ticketed events, or messages from volunteer guides. The last hotel we stayed in warned any security breach was not their responsibility and my husband did get flashed with Japanese porn while trying to watch his news channel.
3/ Decided not to use the luggage forwarding service. We each took one very small suitcase (couple inches bigger than a carryon) and my husband had the laptop and i my handbag. Even on the most crowded -wow i didn't expect to get to know you this well - trains and buses, they were never a problem to manage.
We flew Singapore Airlines. Great service, on time, bland vegetarian food.
Speaking of vegetarian ( although i will eat fish ) one of the best things i came across before leaving was this site http://justhungry.com/japan-dining-out-cards Free to use, saved me a lot of anxiety, and always made restaurant servers smile on reading my print out.
I took 3 x 500g jars of Australian honey into Japan as small gifts for volunteer guides. I declared them however Japanese customs sped read my card, didn't ask what exactly i wanted to declare, and waved us through.
Will try to add to this travel report each day

I'm looking forward to hearing about your trip!

I shall also join in as you relate your travels.

Thanks for that site for dietary restriction cards. I am vegetarian and son is vegan.

Karen

Also looking forward to reading.

Can't wait to read more about your trip!

Thank you very much for your encouragement Kathie, KRNS, MaryW, Kavey, however you might have created a monstor because as you can see i'm back already :)

Smoking in Japan: Non-smokers might like to scroll down to the next paragraph ;)
I didn’t manage to quit before the trip. Haneda and Narita airports have smoking rooms everywhere, even some
restaurants and cafes have their own little enclosed smoking rooms, as do some railway stations, and there’s definitely smoking at street level. For the first week I’d look out for Japanese people standing about smoking and sidle up alongside them before lighting up, or I’d find a spot that wasn’t people popular. I learned to watch out for the waist high ash trays on the street, and some of these street level smoking areas can be downright jolly places to hang out at. Packet 20 Marlborough costs approx. AU $5 in Japan.

Which reminds me of money… I was dizzy from trying to work out what card was the best value, atm fees, bank fees, conversion fees, and after chucking a wobbly one day i changed all our money into yen before leaving Australia and took no cards at all. We wore soft sided money belts under our clothes which worked out very well.

We arrived in Tokyo very late at night and stayed at the Royal Park Hotel, The Haneda for one night. This was our biggest spend on accommodation. We walked straight out of customs and into the hotel as its part of the airport. I don’t actually remember much about the Haneda Hotel other than it was clean with a comfortable bed and nice staff. Looking for a place to eat we took the airport escalators up to the first floor where some late night cafes are situated. On the same floor we noticed quiet and dimly lit sleeping platforms where people were settling down for the night. I think these free to use Haneda airport sleeping alcoves are a really good option for an overnight stay.

The next morning, Saturday, we caught a Japan Airlines flight to Hiroshima, then a bus to Hiroshima station, then a taxi to JMS Aster Plaza Hiroshima International Youth House which really is within walking distance for most people to the Peace Park. There’s also a bus stop nearby.
We took the 3 min bus ride to the Peace Park Museum. It’s just as you know it will be, a deeply moving and profound experience. It’s also a place of education. The park it is situated in is aptly named. It’s a very peaceful and lovely place to wander around or sit in quiet contemplation. We returned to the park twice more over the next two days, and could not leave Hiroshima without being at the Peace Clock Tower to hear the chimes ring out at precisely 8.15 am.

Sunday we caught a 30 min train to Kure to visit the Japan Maritime Self Defence Force Museum also known as JMSDF Kure Museum. From their website, 'The aim of the museum is to educate Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force (JMSDF) personnel and promote understanding by the public of JMSDF,’ and is a fascinating insight into minesweeping operations. There is a decommissioned submarine on display which we really enjoyed walking through. Entry to the museum is free.

Monday we caught the train and ferry to Miyajima Island. I’d read about the crowds and I was ready for them! Because of steps I wasn’t going to be able to visit Daisho-In temple but no-one was going to beat me to the ropeway for 'a spectacular view'. I lead the crowd off that ferry arriving at the enquiry counter bug-eyed, red-faced and out of breath, but I knew I was the winner. “Ropeway closed down for maintenance" said the woman behind the counter.O.
We spent a very pleasant few hours strolling about, however we felt very sorry for the deer. They looked to us to be in very poor condition.

Early afternoon we arrived back at Hiroshima in time to get our 2 suitcases from the train station lockers and depart on the train to Kyoto. Congratulating ourselves on getting such a nice train ride with features we hadn’t expected, we settled in for the journey. A smiling young train official in cap and white gloves came along, looked at us, did a wonderful double-take and came to a halt. We were in the wrong carriage. We then did our walk of shame ( not ) to a reserved carriage with less features but also very comfortable.
We got used to, and learned to look out for, that same hilarious double-take over the following two weeks.

Well, you might be eager to share but I'm just as eager to read - I checked back already to see if you'd happened to give us another installment! :-D

Fodors suggest the possibility of linking to our travel pictures when making a travel report. All i have are the very wobbly short movies i took and uploaded to youtube while we were away
With reference to above trip report, here is what i filmed for Hiroshima and Miyajima Island.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwsTwMSUMHc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rmfVFPrutQ

Ooh lovely, particularly enjoyed your Miyajima video!

Thanks Sandgroper.

Miyajima didn't look as crowded as I was expecting or did you just pick a good moment. The deer does look a bit rough but probably moulting ready for the heat.

Did you get a train pass and had you reserved seats? It all sounds easy enough in the train info but lots of people seem to end up in the wrong carriage and seats! All a bit daunting.

Looking forward to more.

Thankyou Kavey :)
MaryW I completely relate to how daunting train travel in Japan can sound before going there. I was scared out of my mind, but it's everything you hear, easy and always people around to help.
We didn't get a train pass for any of our travel as it worked out not only dearer but seemed too much of a hassle. For Hiroshima to Kyoto we turned up at Hiroshima station the day before we left and reserved seats. Although we were in the wrong carriage it didn't matter because the right carriage wasn't far away.
Our worst day for train travel connections was actually the day we left, but more about that later.
Miyajima might have been less crowded because we were there on a Monday. Ferries arrived about every 15 mins, and hordes of tour groups would alight but then seemed to magically disappear as they dispersed to different areas. Perhaps they were all squashed inside the temples which we didn't go to.

Thanks Sandgroper. I seem to be spending hours on info sites! Reports like yours and Kavey's blogs which I have read are so useful. Its a fun though.

Kyoto 8th – 12th May

Three days before our arrival in Kyoto a very apologetic Windows To Japan contacted me to say the machiya I’d booked had developed a problem which couldn’t be fixed in time for our arrival, and would we accept an upgrade to another machiya in the same location at no extra cost?
I graciously accepted an upgrade from our previous area of 26.6 sq metres to Shizuka-an which has 60 sq metres.
With the maps and street by street images WTJ emailed, it was easy to find. Higashiyama-ku was the perfect area for us to stay and Shizula-An a great machiya.

8th May: Arrived by train in afternoon, relaxed.

9th May: Saiho Ji (Moss) Temple
For a fee WTJ had arranged our invitation from Saiho Jo Temple, and we were very grateful for that service. The process of requiring an invitation probably limits the number of visitors at any one time and means you can wander through a garden that is incredibly quiet and peaceful.
We followed a small family group off the bus who were going to the same temple. At 1.10pm quite a long tourist group had gathered and I showed my invite to a monk. He mimed we were at the wrong temple, i alerted the family group, and then we all charged down the steps, along the road, and up a lovely riverside street to the right temple – which has no flight of steps leading to it. We were late, we were locked out :O. Thankfully a lady from the family group appeared with an elderly local who showed us we could enter through a side gate. There was plenty of time to copy out as much of the sutra as we wished to before wandering at our own pace through the most extraordinary and beautiful garden I have ever seen.
Saiho Ji Temple https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQlcbkJpcDI

10th May: With a volunteer guide for the day to Miho Museum and Nishiki market

Although personal volunteer guide clubs might suggest tours on their websites, I found the three I contacted for one day tours in Kyoto, Kanazawa, and Tokyo more than happy to help us with our own requests.
Miyoko-san from the Sakura Volunteer Guide Club had been in touch with us through quite a few emails. Every detail was arranged beautifully by her and she took very good care of us from the moment we met at our accommodation. The guide club was aware I might struggle to walk far or fast, or up any stairs, and had matched us with a caring and compassionate guide.
Miho Museum took my breath away from the moment I set foot inside the tunnel. No words to describe it, here are the pictures I was permitted to take, I hope they will tell some of the story.
Miho Museum https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJZH68jsr3w

11th May: Kamagawa Odori and Kyoto Butoh-kan

The afternoon: Thanks to Miyoko-san’s help well before we arrived in Japan, my husband and I had two great seats to a Kamagawa Odori performance. It was gorgeous and worth every yen for 2 of the more expensive seats. Although no pictures are permitted during the performance, prior to the performance two Maiko appeared for a photo opportunity. I’d say every excited guest who wanted a pic taken with a maiko certainly got that chance.

The evening : Butoh dance, what can I say? It’s exciting, its raw, it’s very Japanese avant-garde and in Kyoto is held in a theatre that is dedicated to Butoh. So tiny is the theatre that only an audience of 8 is permitted for the evening performance. Again no photography or filming allowed during the performance however Butoh dancer Ima Tenko kindly permitted me to take a photo afterwards.
Some highlights of our short visit to Kyoto. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0KQ-cFkFSg

12th May: On the train to Nikko

OOps 12th May on the train to Kanazawa. Not Nikko.

Ooh how exciting. Lovely that you got an upgrade into a larger machiya - I had a look online but can't find any external pictures of the building, do you have any?

And you know, I've been wanting to go to Miho Museum for three trips to Kyoto now. I'm determined I'll get there next time we visit Japan! Lovely youtube video you have made.

Kavey, I'm so glad you're still following this trip report. You're question has brought to light a huge mistake i made in my report.
The smaller machiya we were originally booked into is called Shizuka-An. We were never told what the problem was, just that it was an 'urgent issue' that was unlikely to be fixed before our arrival.
The larger machiya we were upgraded to is called Seiun-an. I did a quick google and notice it's listed on a few sites. Booking.com has the best outside view of it. Pic 2 https://www.booking.com/hotel/jp/sei...al&type=total&
If you need any further info i can give you a very unbiased review of it.

@sandgroper, enjoying your report. I'm still Japan, currently in Hiroshima. Sorry you missed the ropeway up to Mt. Misen it was breathtaking. I also thought the same thing about the deers on Miyajima, look sickly to me too, unlike the ones in Nara. Love your pics/videos.

Oh, now I must say, that one looks way more appealing to me than your original booking. We looked at booking a machiya too but all the ones I liked were so expensive for just two people travelling, I just couldn't justify it. I decided to save our splurges for the ryokan stays where the price included wonderful kaiseki meals too.

Really love the look of Seiun-an though!

Thanks jdc26 and Kavey. It's great for a first timer to Japan to get this kind of encouragement from more experienced travellers to Japan.

12th May - 15th May Kanazawa
The train trip to Kanazawa was a breeze, and it was here we had our very first airbnb booked experience and without a doubt 'The Temple House' located in Higashiyama, was the accommodation we liked best. " Wow" from the moment we walked in. It was too big for us because we never did use the upstairs sleeping area but sleep we did. On our first ever futon beds. Big surprise for us the best sleeps in years turned out to be on futon beds. Here is the house if anyone is interested. I'd say it's way better than pictured https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/8437715

13th May we met our volunteer guide, Shinichi-san, who we'd arranged one and half days with. Shinichi-san had put a huge amount of work into pre-planning our time to include exactly
what we wanted it to. Couldn't have asked for a more thoughtful guide.
First we visited the beautiful Kenrokuen Garden.
My video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vervQQe4Z7Q

After lunch, and i should mention here that volunteer guides never chose any meal that cost more then AU $12, we caught a train to Komatsu for the Otabi festival because i wanted to see Childens Kabuki. I beleive it's the only place in Japan that has Children's Kabuki. Shinichi-san wanted to know how i knew about it as he hadn't had this request before. What could i say but, "google" :D
My video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwTI8Fbhrz8

14th May
I'd spent fruitless hours googling trying to find where i could attend a "ryurei" tea ceremony. One where the tea master uses a table and participants can sit on a low bench. I just didn't want to attend an elegant hour long tea ceremony where i'd need to be hauled upright again by the armpits or go my often used route of rear end up first prior to standing.
Google didn't come to the rescue however Shinichi-san did.
Saisetsu-tei, Kanazawa's oldest teahouse set in Gyokusen-en Garden had what i needed. For a cost of 3000 yen per person we were taken through the rituals of the tea ceremony by an expert in the tea ceremony, Nishida-san and her assistant. Just wonderful. The stone vessel you'll see in my pics is where we purified our hands and mouths before entering the tea room. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbfuHdsvf4w

15th May
Very long day, trains Kanazawa to Nikko

The Kanazawa house does look nice - I have been looking for somewhere there. The stairs are very steep - as you say you didnt use the upstairs sleeping area, I assume the bathroom is downstairs. They look like they would be a challenge getting up and down with an mobility issue.

Your volunteer guides sound great.