6 Days In Charming, Laid Back, Laos
 

In my initial planning of my “Rock Star” trip to South East Asia, Laos was not high on my tour list. After spending six days there I am glad I listened to my band manger and made it one of our stops. It would have been a huge mistake not to have visited this beautiful, charming and peaceful country.

I hope my shared stories and experiences will convince you to put it on your list even if you cannot tour it like a “Rock Star”.

Someday.... right now my focus seems to be on visiting friends in Bangkok for the most part! I'm slowly branching out to other places though.

Where did you go in Laos?

So glad you enjoyed Laos... Not Laos-y at all, huh?

I've been enjoying your videos.

Hope you'll continue to share them.

simpsonc510,

I'm sending you some "MiracleGro" so you can branch out faster especially to places like Laos :)

Trips from BKK-LPQ or VTE are easy and quick by air (more $$) or slow and adventureous by bus/train (more fun)

Kathie,

Visited Vientiane, Vang Vieng and of course Luang Prabang. Postings about all of them to follow soon.

mbran,

Again, you were right on target :)

Not Laos-y at all especially since I learned the "S" is not pronounced.

Hence Beer Lao... Not Laos-y Beer :)

Chilin in Vientiane

After a long overnight train ride from Bangkok,it is time to chill and relax before setting off to explore more of Laos. A visit to an Internet Cafe and the search for one night of accommodation begins in Vientiane.

At Dragon Lodge Guesthouse we inspect a room and for US$10 per night although it is no Holiday Inn Express, we take it. A nice hot shower and it's time to walk around the town before having an early dinner.

Across the street from Dragon Lodge is The Lao National Cultural Hall which I am excited to visit. However, I am disappointed to discover that there is nothing to see. Apparently, the hall is used only for special events and there are no permanent cultural displays except the building itself.

A few steps from That Dam we grab a table at a local restaurant where the menu looks interesting. My first sampling of Beer Lao comes served on “The Rocks” and I love it. A nice relief from the afternoon heat.

My second disappointment of the afternoon comes when I learn they are all out of wild boar. I settle for another order of Pad Thai which turns out to be delicious. I'm really taking a liking to the way most food seems to be served in South East Asia, with chili peppers. A complete meal for two, about US$6!

As we are dining a mother and her son are watching us with curiosity. At first, I am sure they are looking for a handout but I am pleasantly surprised that it seems as if they only want to entertain us.

Interestingly, they follow us as we leave the restaurant for a short stroll to That Dam. Turns out they are fun and we figure we would be glad to hang out with these dogs anytime.

Our chilin plans continue with a traditional Lao massage that you can get for less than a Hamilton (US$10). The night then ends on a sweet note with a visit to Jo Ma Bakery Cafe, a popular hangout for locals and tourists.

I go to bed with visions of Mango Crumb Cake, Giant Chocolate Chip Cookies and Coconut Layered Tarts dancing in my head.


Video:http://youtu.be/C-k4Aa1I6pg

avoid the "on the rocks"... ice can cause big problems

rhkkmk,

Avoiding "On the rocks" would be to drink the beer like a tourist.

As much as I can I try to experience my travels like a local even if I occasionally pay a small price in the end :(

Like American Express never leave home without Pepto or Imodium :)

Ice is not a problem in Vientiane and in fact throughout Lao.

Vientianeboy,

Having spent 6 days in Laos, eating and drinking all types of foods and beverage, I would tend to agree with you.

In fact, not once in about 3 weeks in SE Asia did I have to breakout the Pepto.

I would say some people are more sensitive to foreign food so a word of caution would not be out of place unless it is meant to cause unnecessary concern or fear.

no some people have common sense and do not have interruptions to their holidays

rhkkmk,

You are so right, the rest of us have no common sense and our vacations are also ruined by ice :(

Tuk Tuk To The Golden Temple


The night passes too quickly as the morning sun sneaks it way through the curtain cracks of our first floor hotel room. It will be a short morning as we will leave Vientiane on a bus at 10am for Vang Vieng.

I rise but not necessarily shine for a quick tour of what is considered the most important temple in Laos.

Just outside of Dragon Guesthouse we find a tuk tuk driver lounging around that will take us to The Golden Temple for about US$5 round trip. Although I am sure you can still bargain for tuk tuk fares, it is interesting that this tuk tuk has posted fares sanctioned by the government to popular destinations around the city.

From a stop at a local gas station, if my calculations are correct the price of gasoline is pretty high here. About US$5 per gallon. Luckily, I think a tuk tuk gets about 500-600 miles to the gallon.

It is still early enough in the morning that when we arrive at The Golden Temple the area is still relatively vacant and quiet. A walk across a huge open area where pilgrims gather during religious festivals and I can soon see close up some of the other beautiful temples here.

From a sign posted outside of The Golden Temple I learn that some of Buddha's bones are buried here. With a limited amount of time I only get to enjoy this temple from the outside. There is a small admission fee if you want to tour inside the temple.

Again, I am in awe of the skill and craftsmanship on display as I look at these splendid buildings. More time should be allowed to enjoy the scene and serenity here on a morning like this.

Roasted corn is not the first food that comes to mind when I think about breakfast, however, it is hard to pass up when you can get two of them fresh for about a buck. Enjoying one of them on the back of a tuk tuk and I think can life get any better than this.

Video:http://youtu.be/R8VixgUj7AE

I never had any problems with any ice in Laos either. I never had any problems with any food or drink while there.

live42day,

If you did not take some of the postings here with a sense of humor and a "large grain of salt" you wouldn't go anywhere or experience the true joy of traveling.

I image some would even have a problem with "Vanilla Ice" in Florida! :(

Afternoon In Vang Vieng

After what seemed like a short bus ride across a beautiful lush green and sometimes mountainous landscape, we arrive at a bus station just outside of Vang Vieng.

Although it is a short walk into town, most of us are transported by a free tuk tuk to a drop point at Malany Villa.

With no accommodations arranged for the next two nights, we inquire about rooms available at Malany. We decide to go for broke and get a room with air-conditioning, a large bathroom, a queen and a double bed along with a TV for US$10.

I find it a very cool custom that shoes are not allowed to be worn inside the hotel. A rack is provided at the main entrance for them or you can carry them to your room.

From the open lobby of Malany you can easily see some of the picturesque scenery that makes Vang Vieng a popular stop for those traveling to or from Luang Prabang.

A cold beer in hand and we are walking the streets to a river that flows through the town. From here tubing and kayaking trips can be easily arranged.

As usual the streets are lined with shops and restaurants but there is something strange and unique about many of the restaurants. It seems many of the locals and tourists here are into having friends and old fashioned values while dining.

Jennifer Aniston and Peter Griffin are pretty popular here and you can see them over and over and over again while you are dining.

More of a street food kind of person when traveling, I stop at a popular venue around town. A Crepe, Pancake making stand. With all types of combinations available, I choose a fat free, lemon, honey and sugar one.

Angelic and delicious, you can bet the farm I'll be back to try a few other tasty combinations.

After our slight and worthwhile delay, we arrive at the riverfront to take in the gorgeous scenery surrounding Vang Vieng. While others enjoy the river for recreation, others use it as a way of life. I relax and watch as a fishing boat with a crew of four including a young child troll and work the sometimes fast flowing river.

For me, it is beautiful and majestic to witness this simple way of fishing as a huge white net is repeatedly cast overboard. I am not sure what is being caught but I never see “the big one that got away”.

The sun is slowly setting behind cloudy skies but it's light still gives the flowers, river and colorful stilt houses a sparkle. All of this makes for a splendid and tranquil end to the day along the riverfront.

As promised, I stop for another fat free sinful delight and get an unexpected surprise. I am offered to share in the dinner of the lady that had earlier made us pancakes. I am handed a leaf filled with meat, noodles and vegetables along with seasonings that's dripping with an oily dressing. A lettuce leaf type wrap that is not politically or “omg, I'm going to get fat” correct.

On the way back to Malany Villa it is time again for what has become sort of self-funded scientific project. After another awesome Lao massage, I wonder how long I can lay here like a marshmallow melting over a campfire before they force me to leave?

Video:http://youtu.be/cd4olgB4mcI

Nearly all Jumbos, tuk tuks and Sky labs in Lao run on petrol, not gas. Petrol costs a bit more than a $1.00 a litre. 500 miles per gallon!!!! My god, the world's energy crisis would be solved.

Vientianeboy,

Thanks for your non criticizing, humorous response.

I think what you refer to as petrol, in the US we call it natural gas (propane).

On my mini-van trip from Siem Reap to Bangkok we did have to get out of the van while it was being fueled with "petrol".

Don't you know that for years the "Oil Producers" and "Car Makers" have been keeping the 400 mile per gallon carburetor under wraps?

I thought it had escaped and made it's way to Laos :)

Delicious Street Food In Vang Vieng

While eating street food during travel is often frown upon by many, it is not something that I particularly shy away from. Remembering the day when what are now called “Gourmet Trucks” use to be called “Roach Coaches”, I know that there can be some culinary gems found in eating street food. I discover one such gem in Vang Vieng.

Popular around town are pancake, crepe stands. However, like snowflakes they are not all the same. I am fortunate that I come across one right in front of a huge hotel being constructed in the town.

Unfortunately, these stands are not named, so in Vang Vieng you may have to do some some venturing to find this one or a good one like it. Here the crepes are freshly made and you can have your choice of various combinations including chocolate, peanut butter, banana or even coconut.

My choice, a fat free, no calorie, lemon, honey and sugar. Angelic and delightful :)


Video:http://youtu.be/pBQgK0DDYHA

Riding A Hog In Vang Vieng

Although we had made a loose commitment the night before to rent bicycles, I wake up thinking we would cover more ground faster on a hog. Some quick checking and we discover that this can done for about the same price as renting two bicycles.

For about US$4, we hand over our passports and with a crude map set off to explore the countryside around Vang Vieng with a mandatory first stop at a gas station. The sites we would like to visit are spread out in different directions so we make what we think is a logical plan.

Our first stop is to visit a waterfall about 10km out of town. From there we will then continue on to Elephant Cave then double back to the Blue Lagoon. A busy day by any stretch of the imagination.

Going down a dirt road, through cool villages seeing farmers working rice fields with an awesome landscape in the background, I quickly realize that we have embarked on an impossible mission.

The views and scenery here are too splendid to not take as much time as possible to enjoy. Furthermore, we have not even reached our first destination, Yui Waterfall.


Video:http://youtu.be/dzkU_1GQFWg

Kaeng Nyui Waterfall

After a beautiful ride along a sometimes mountainous gravel road, our hog comes to rest at the entrance of Kaeng Nyui waterfall. After paying a small entrance fee, we begin a hike that I am convinced will not be a disappointment.

At the beginning of the trail we pause for a few moments in an area with different food vendors and decide that on the way back we will stop here for lunch. Above the level of human noise, the relaxing sounds of nearby rushing water reminds me why we are here and we press on.

I am not sure if it rained here earlier in the morning but moisture is lingering in the air and some portions of the path are slippery. In some areas, the vegetation forms a natural canopy and is so dense the morning light struggles to break through. The trees are alive with vivid jungle colors and often a bird or two can be heard chirping in the distance, no doubt hidden among the tree leaves.

The path to Kaeng is filled with many tranquil distractions as there are numerous streams and smaller waterfalls in every direction. There is even a small suspension bridge that adds nicely to the picturesque scenery.

After numerous stops, the sounds and sight of Kaeng Nyui touch my senses. One last set of steps through an area of banana plants and we will be there. The hike has been a little more challenging than expected. However, soon we are standing on a small hill looking down at the base of the waterfall as the descending water crashes into it.

The magnificence of the thundering sound and the splashing spray of the water pulls us in. We cautiously go down a slippery path to get a close up and more splendid view. From the base of the waterfall, I stare up into the heavens. A few hundred feet above me I can see where the water begins it's crashing descent. I imagine this is even more spectacular in the height of the rainy season.

There is an amazing thing about standing here that everyone should at least have an opportunity in life to experience. Nature can sometimes be such an awe-inspiring and wonderful thing.


Video:http://youtu.be/InYGprLK_8o

Small Creatures Unique And Beautiful

In a huge world it is interesting how sometimes we can miss the little things that can be special in their own way. At Kaeng Nyui waterfall, I have a gentle remind of this.

While taking in the scenery, my attention is captured by the little life that goes on almost unnoticed here. A few what looks like long spiked fuzz balls hangs out on a log while another one scurries along the ground.

What I think is a leaf on another nearby log turns out to alive. All creatures unique and beautiful.

Amazing still is when I share my lunch with my aunts and they decide to take some of it to go.


Video:http://youtu.be/6azWiuWKdFI

An Interesting Lunch Menu

Returning from our hike to Kaeng Nyui waterfall, it's time to relax and have some lunch before moving on to our next adventure.

Along another rapidly flowing stream booths are set up with Asian style seating for us to enjoy a meal in the tranquility of the forest. We select one and then head over to see what's cooking. There are no menus to make selections from so what you see is what you get.

We are offered chicken but I opt for a papaya salad that will be freshly made. Along with a couple cans of Beer Lao we should be happy but then I smell rat. Not figuratively but literally I smell and see a group of them being grilled next to the earlier offered chicken. I wonder if they both taste the same.

A group of men working in the forest gather around the grill to make their selections and encourage me to try one. Although I am told the field rats taste better than the city ones, like eating a bug in Bangkok, I think I will save that challenge for the next time I visit Laos.

My papaya salad is delivered and boy does it come with a kick. Made from green papaya, with peanuts and I am told some interesting fish parts, the chili seasoning used on this one sets my hair on fire. This leaves me wishing I had a colder Beer Lao.


Video:http://youtu.be/XAXKg5NBCzM

DMB "I think what you refer to as petrol, in the US we call it natural gas (propane)."

No, what I am referring to as "petrol" is gasoline. Propane gas is gas. As I stated, nearly all Jumbos, tuk tuks and sky labs, (all different forms of motor cycle powered vehicles, just different in size), are petrol drive in Lao. They are not propelled by propane gas. Some are, but not most by a long way.

Vientianeboy,

We are on the same page about petrol. In USA, any reference to "gas" implies gasoline/petrol.

For vehicles that use what you call "gas", we say that it uses "Natural Gas/Propane".

Here, "gas" is more commonly used in buses for public transit systems in places like New York City. Better emissions than petrol or diesel fuels :)

DMB - Loved the rat video. Did Anthony Bourdain eat there?

crosscheck,

I thought I recognized Anthony but I am not sure. The rat was hiding most of his face :(

I belive the caution about ice and street food is simply good advice for avoiding what may and I stress the word may cause some digestion issues for some people. Most people do not want to have to deal with those issues while on vacation and having pepto or immodium is small consolation if the worst happens. As demonstated in this thread there are people who have little or no issues with the local street food- good for them. We all would like to sample the tempting street food but some of us will not risk it. It does not mean that we do not enjoy traveling and experiencing other cultures - it just means we use an abundance of caution in this area.

Great rat video. We saw grilled rat many times in the markets of the far north of Laos but , whilst we tried just about everything else, we just didn't get around to the rat. Maybe next time... Enjoying your posts DMB. Good to get different perspective from the norm.

BillT,

A well thought out response to how we all handle street food and travel choices differently.

At least I don't feel like I have "no common sense and want to have my holiday interrupted" because I choose to have my Beer Lao "On The Rocks" like a local :)

crellston,

I am also saving the rat experience for the next time I visit Laos. However, I think I will go to a rice farming village to have one.

I heard they are much better tasting there. Now, I can't wait :)

BillT,

Looks like "The Beer Summit" will have to be Laos (Thailand is off limit) :(

And since where ever you go there you are, I'll make sure we order a few extra bottles for you :)