progol

Well, tickets are purchased, leaving Friday, January 18 and returning on February 8, 2013. That's 20 nights for our trip to Rajasthan and Varanasi. I've been working and re-working the itinerary, and overall I feel pretty pleased. It's a little more hectic than I've done in a while, but it's doable - and I really doubt that we'll be able to travel to India again anytime soon.

We're interested in being able to visit smaller villages, and having the opportunity to meet or visit local residents in a non-commercial way, which is why Hacra.org appeals to me. The "guided tour" at Rawlai Narlai sounds about right, as long as it isn't heavy-handed on the commercial aspects of the tour.

We are primarily budget-moderate travelers, although I do splurge once in a while if it's really a unique experience, and I wondered how a stop at Narlai would compare to a stop at Ranakpur.

I don't think we're inclined toward a camel safari, although I wouldn't rule out a trip into the desert. I don't see it as an essential component of the trip, though.

I've already identified an agent that I plan to work with, but I wondered what you India experts think of the following plan:

The current yet tentative itinerary is:

Delhi (2 nights)
Fly to varanasi
Varanasi (2 nights)
Overnight train to Agra(1night)
Agra (1night)
Jaipur (2 nights)
Bundi (2 nights)
Udaipur (2 nights)
Ranakpur, Narlai or other stop (1night)
Jodhpur (2 nights)
Jaisalmer (3 nights)
hacra.org homestay (1 night)
Fly jodhpur to Delhi
Delhi (1 night)
Fly home.

Of course we'll have a driver & car. I go back & forth on the number of stops, although I do want to mix up smaller and larger places. I fluctuate between eliminating Bundi or perhaps stop there one night and add a night to one of the other cities so that we have another 3-day stay, but from all the reading, Bundi has really captured my imagination.

Originally, I wasn't going to visit Jaisalmer, but too many people have said it's necessary; and I've come to agree, so that is a must. I considered eliminating Jaipur, but it's too difficult to avoid it, and most people say it is still an essential stop, even if it's a hectic city stop.

So this is the plan I've come up with and would appreciate your thoughts.

I'm also working on the hotel choices, and will post that in a little while.

Many thanks,
Paule

progol

Anyone? Would appreciate hearing your thoughts.
Paule

dgunbug

I have not been to Bundi, so I cannot comment on that portion of the trip. We had originally wanted to go to the Rat Temple, but decided we didn't have time. It was a decision that we were happy to have made after seeing enough rats scurrying around the train station at Jodhpur!

The stop at Ranakpur is only a short one which you can do while driving between Udiapur and Jaipur. It does not require an overnight stop and I don't recall much there.

Be sure to stop at the Monkey Temple and the stepping wells on your drive between Jaipur and Agra. You will not need a lot of time at either, but they were so worthwhile.

rhkkmk

yes it looks busy but i think it is perfect...keep jaipur, it is an interesting place...

udaipur is a wonderful city--our favorite..

did you find a train from V to agra?? easier to fly..

why 3 nites in jaisalmer??

progol

Thanks for the thoughts, I appreciate them.

June, I was thinking of trying to slow down and see a small village as well as visiting the temple. I was hoping to find something like the town at Narlai, where there is an opportunity to visit some of the small businesses or locals. Perhaps Narlai is worth the splurge? Or is my idea of visiting a small town not realistic?

Bob,
I'll definitely keep Jaipur. I'm still toying with taking one day from Bundi and adding it to another place.

There's an overnight train from Varanasi to Agra, which I thought we'd do rather than flying back to Delhi and changing for the train. It allows us to get into Agra in the morning and we'd visit Agra on that day.

I didn't want to return to Delhi in between. Is it still easier to fly back and change for the train? It's the one train that seemed to make sense to take, although I don't expect a great night's sleep.

As far as 3 days in Jaisalmer, I thought it sounded like a good place to just relax before returning to Delhi. I've read such divergent experiences that it's hard to know what it will feel like, but my hope is that it's just different enough to soak up atmosphere and not much else by this point in our trip.

Again, thanks! It's very helpful to get other people's impressions.

Paule

Jaya

Smaller villages are not more Indian, they simply live differently. Communication can be harder in villages because English is less prevalent.

Don't eat or drink items given to you by the villagers as you are certain to get sick, but refusing them is going to be hard because it is seen as rude. Just something to keep in mind.

Go to a large hindu temple and you can get a good glimpse of a cross section of Indians. Bring socks because you cannot wear shoes inside temples. You do not need to cover your head and you do not need to be hindu. You can just walk around and look at all of the temple statues. There is no formality like in church. You, however, cannot take pictures inside. That is true for any hindu temple I've been too.

progol

Thank you, Jaya. I appreciate the difficulty in managing to be respectful while also trying to be careful - a difficult balance at times!

Paule

rhkkmk

at the rat temple we rented small cloth covers for our shoes.. the place is a hoot..

udaipur is the place to relax..

do you have any starwood points...?? cash and pts at the udaipur sheraton is a steal...

look at ratan villas in jodphur---one of the best places we stayed for sure and an excellent a la carte restaurant too--skip buffet.

rhkkmk

you might like reading my 2011 trip report--click on my name

dgunbug

We stayed at the Jagas nivas hotel in udiapur and really enjoyed our stay there. The meals at the roof top restaurant were very good. The price for the accommodations were quite inexpensive.

You may also click on my name for my India trip report. One town you may consider is Gwalior which was quite different from the other towns we visited. You can easily get there by a short train ride out of Agra. The fort was unique, there were interesting temples and Buddhist carvings built out of the mountainside leading up to the fort. Also, since this was one of the least touristy towns we visited, we found less touts and found the people to be exceptionally friendly. I don't understand how this town gets such little recognition. It was one of the big surprises for us on our trip to India.

progol

Thanks, Bob, I've been reading all the trip reports I can find, and look forward to reading yours.

Now that I have my tickets, the trip becomes more real, and the planning is so much more fun - with a little bit of a reality check knowing that I really can't do it all.

Hubby has nixed the rat temple -- he's not fond of rodents of any kind, even the spiritual type -- so that will have to go.

I'm still considering eliminating Bundi, and if I do, will add a day to Udaipur.

Ratan Villas is on my list of places to consider, although I also see that the Haveli Pal Inn (one of the 2, I can't remember the exact name) seems to be well-liked, and one of the more modestly-priced places.

I wish we had Starwood points, but we're not really frequent flyers; we just save toward a good trip every year or 2 (or 3). Money is a consideration but I don't have any qualms about splurging on a special or unique place. Hence India!

Thanks for all the feedback - I'll be busy with your trip report soon.

Paule

progol

I meant, "frequent travelers"

progol

June,
I remember reading your trip report, and Gwalior does sound interesting. I'll look into it some more.

live42day

I also stayed at Jagat Niwas hotel in Udaipur and loved it. We did the overnight train from Varanasi to Agra and thought it was great, a real time saver.

We did Jaisalmer for four nites but the Desert fair was on at that time which was amazing. Sadly it will be in Feb this year so you will miss it. We did an overnight camel safari from there through our hotel which we really liked as well. It was very cold, but enjoyable.

I also have a trip report if you click on my name . We travel middle of the road too, most hotels around $50 a night.

progol

Hi, live42day,
I've been savoring and studying your trip report for the last few months, and really love it. What a wonderful spirit you have - I love the fact that you've tried so many different types of places!

Now I'm trying to allocate days to various places and am trying to figure out how many days to spend in each place. I have one week less but I imagine I'm probably spending the same amount of time in Rajasthan as you did. We're leaving January 18, so timing is similar. Anyway, now I'm focusing on the details - my first reading(s) were more about the overall picture.

Thanks for writing!

travelaw

You may enjoy my report too Paule -- it's a bit old now, but covers many of the places you will be going. Here's the link:
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-travelawg.cfm
We also did a trip to South India in 2010 -- not sure that will be as helpful, but you might find it interesting -- click on my name - it's named travelaw escapes the IZ or something like that ... You're going to have a fantastic time in India!

progol

travelaw,
I do remember reading --and loving -- your trip report last year when a trip to India was a vague thought. I will definitely go through it again!
Paule

rhkkmk

your husband is missing the true essence of india-- leave him home

progol

Ha ha, Bob! Very funny. I'll try framing the temple as exactly that and see if he buys it.

jules39

I too have a trip report out there for 3 weeks in Rajasthan & Varanasi that you may want to look at. We did go to the rat temple. You get shoe covers as Bob mentioned. The place stinks but seems clean despite the rats everywhere. You know it is not a place we would go back to but it is a place that we always tell people about! I wouldn't go out of my way to go there