19 Days In Vietnam - First Timers!
Jul 2nd, 2018, 12:15 PM
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19 Days In Vietnam - First Timers!
Hi SEA friends - We are planning our very first trip to Asia. The Vietnam threads and experiences shared have been so helpful as we research our trip - so a big thank you to the regulars. At first, we thought we'd also see Angkor Wat but have decided to "love the one your with"
and spend more time in Vietnam.
Our flights are booked and we now have a tentative plan and I'd love your feedback.
FYI - we are a couple of 50-year-old mountain bikers who are active, healthy, sporty people who also love history and understanding what they're seeing. We like to stay at nice places and are fairly adventurous eaters -- I draw the line at duck fetus eggs.
Okay so here's the plan: We arrive in Saigon first thing Nov 28 and depart from Hanoi 19 days later on Dec 16.
I've noted a couple of the travel agents in VN that Crellston and Kathie (I believe) have recommended: Ethnic Travel and Custom Vietnam Travels to help us with drivers. Have you found that they are able to secure better rates for hotels and cruises?
4 Full Days: Saigon
First 2 nights: An Lam Resort on Saigon River to decompress after the long flight from Toronto, Canada with some excursions from the dock.
2 Nights: Hotel Des Arts (tentative) downtown Saigon.
Dec 2: To Hoi An (3 nights)
We understand that in December the weather could be okay or rainy. We're not beach people so we're okay with that but we will keep an eye out for truly nasty weather and skip Hoi An and Hue is there's something big coming and maybe go to Con Dao or see more of the Mekong Delta. On the flip side perhaps the crowds might be a bit thinned out if it's cooler and wetter. Haven't picked a place to stay yet.
Dec 5: To Hue (2 nights)
Haven't picked a place to stay.
Dec 7: Fly from Hue to Hanoi (4 nights/3.5 days)
Sofitel Metropole Hotel
Dec 11: Hanoi to Halong Bay
Overnight cruise. We went back on forth on this as I know some of you loved it, some not so much. We decided to see for ourselves! Thanks to Crellston's notes (though not his fave) we'd like to choose one that goes to Bai Tu Long Bay. Not sure, but I don't think any leave from Bai Tu Long, correct?
Dec 12: car to Ninh Binh (4 nights)
There are lots of things that look up our alley here. We're looking at staying in Tam Coc (tentatively) and have lots on the to-do list including the Trang Am grottoes, pagodas, hikes, primate rescue, etc.
Dec 16: To Hanoi (Flight to IST)
Our flight to Istanbul (stopover for a few days on the way home) leaves later in the evening. So this could be another day in Hanoi if we feel there's unfinished business.
Thanks for your thoughts, in advance!
and spend more time in Vietnam.Our flights are booked and we now have a tentative plan and I'd love your feedback.
FYI - we are a couple of 50-year-old mountain bikers who are active, healthy, sporty people who also love history and understanding what they're seeing. We like to stay at nice places and are fairly adventurous eaters -- I draw the line at duck fetus eggs.
Okay so here's the plan: We arrive in Saigon first thing Nov 28 and depart from Hanoi 19 days later on Dec 16.
I've noted a couple of the travel agents in VN that Crellston and Kathie (I believe) have recommended: Ethnic Travel and Custom Vietnam Travels to help us with drivers. Have you found that they are able to secure better rates for hotels and cruises?
4 Full Days: Saigon
First 2 nights: An Lam Resort on Saigon River to decompress after the long flight from Toronto, Canada with some excursions from the dock.
2 Nights: Hotel Des Arts (tentative) downtown Saigon.
Dec 2: To Hoi An (3 nights)
We understand that in December the weather could be okay or rainy. We're not beach people so we're okay with that but we will keep an eye out for truly nasty weather and skip Hoi An and Hue is there's something big coming and maybe go to Con Dao or see more of the Mekong Delta. On the flip side perhaps the crowds might be a bit thinned out if it's cooler and wetter. Haven't picked a place to stay yet.
Dec 5: To Hue (2 nights)
Haven't picked a place to stay.
Dec 7: Fly from Hue to Hanoi (4 nights/3.5 days)
Sofitel Metropole Hotel
Dec 11: Hanoi to Halong Bay
Overnight cruise. We went back on forth on this as I know some of you loved it, some not so much. We decided to see for ourselves! Thanks to Crellston's notes (though not his fave) we'd like to choose one that goes to Bai Tu Long Bay. Not sure, but I don't think any leave from Bai Tu Long, correct?
Dec 12: car to Ninh Binh (4 nights)
There are lots of things that look up our alley here. We're looking at staying in Tam Coc (tentatively) and have lots on the to-do list including the Trang Am grottoes, pagodas, hikes, primate rescue, etc.
Dec 16: To Hanoi (Flight to IST)
Our flight to Istanbul (stopover for a few days on the way home) leaves later in the evening. So this could be another day in Hanoi if we feel there's unfinished business.
Thanks for your thoughts, in advance!
Jul 2nd, 2018, 11:14 PM
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Unless you are looking to arrange an actual tour, I would not bother arranging hotels via a tour agent. Ethnic Travel were great at what they did which was trekking transport and arranging homestays in place that don’t figure on any booking sights.
I almost always use booking.com or in the case of high end hotels, or book direct with the hotel. Website. I note that you have chosen two Accor properties, the Metropole and The McGallery des Arts. I have stayed in the Metropole years ago. Nice location and a nice hotel but I do find it very overpriced these days. The L’Opera is another Accor property close by and is arguably much better value - just a thought.
I haven’t stayed in Des Arts but have stayed in McGallerys in other places and LOVED them. Something a little different. If you haven’t already done so,, join the Accor loyalty programme and book via ther website for discounts and points. The Des Arts is on Nguyen Thi Minh Kai a good location close to our friends Homestay which is our usual base in the city. Close to the War Remnants Museum and the Independence Palace. Not sure about the Am Lam resort. I haven’t stayed there myself but did meet someone who had and had a few issues.
You SHOULD be ok in Hoi An and Hue ( as far as one can tell these days) especially if you are going towards the end of the month. I prefer Hue to Hoi An. The Imperial Tombs are amazing and, as keen mountain bikers, your best bet would be to hire or borrow bikes and explore those by pedal power. Some great food in Hue including my fav restaurant in Central Vietnam, Lac Thien. A great place to stay in Hue is L’Residence it used to be an Accor McGallery property but has changed hands. A little out of the centre but a nice location right on the Perfume river. An Art Deco style building that was once the French embassy. The rooms with terraces overlooking the river are superb.
If you want to consider Con Dao the you may need to lock in flights sooner rather than later as I think there is still only the one airline that flies there. Otherwise, my preference would be for some time in te Mekong Delta - great place for bike riding ( although no mountains!) the delta needs at least a couple of nights, preferably more.
Re Ha Long / Bai Tu Long I think all boats leave from the dock in Halong and sail from there to BTL, HL or both. I recall that someone here recently posted about a newish outfit that went from Haiphong which entailed ashorter drive but a longer sail. You should be able to search for it.
As you are "adventurous eaters" you are in for a huge treat in Vietnam. The food is amazing. I think my wife still maintains her food maps of Saigon and Hanoi with some of our fav. places. If you would like a link please send me a private message and I will try and did it out.
I almost always use booking.com or in the case of high end hotels, or book direct with the hotel. Website. I note that you have chosen two Accor properties, the Metropole and The McGallery des Arts. I have stayed in the Metropole years ago. Nice location and a nice hotel but I do find it very overpriced these days. The L’Opera is another Accor property close by and is arguably much better value - just a thought.
I haven’t stayed in Des Arts but have stayed in McGallerys in other places and LOVED them. Something a little different. If you haven’t already done so,, join the Accor loyalty programme and book via ther website for discounts and points. The Des Arts is on Nguyen Thi Minh Kai a good location close to our friends Homestay which is our usual base in the city. Close to the War Remnants Museum and the Independence Palace. Not sure about the Am Lam resort. I haven’t stayed there myself but did meet someone who had and had a few issues.
You SHOULD be ok in Hoi An and Hue ( as far as one can tell these days) especially if you are going towards the end of the month. I prefer Hue to Hoi An. The Imperial Tombs are amazing and, as keen mountain bikers, your best bet would be to hire or borrow bikes and explore those by pedal power. Some great food in Hue including my fav restaurant in Central Vietnam, Lac Thien. A great place to stay in Hue is L’Residence it used to be an Accor McGallery property but has changed hands. A little out of the centre but a nice location right on the Perfume river. An Art Deco style building that was once the French embassy. The rooms with terraces overlooking the river are superb.
If you want to consider Con Dao the you may need to lock in flights sooner rather than later as I think there is still only the one airline that flies there. Otherwise, my preference would be for some time in te Mekong Delta - great place for bike riding ( although no mountains!) the delta needs at least a couple of nights, preferably more.
Re Ha Long / Bai Tu Long I think all boats leave from the dock in Halong and sail from there to BTL, HL or both. I recall that someone here recently posted about a newish outfit that went from Haiphong which entailed ashorter drive but a longer sail. You should be able to search for it.
As you are "adventurous eaters" you are in for a huge treat in Vietnam. The food is amazing. I think my wife still maintains her food maps of Saigon and Hanoi with some of our fav. places. If you would like a link please send me a private message and I will try and did it out.
Jul 4th, 2018, 12:53 PM
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Hi Crellston - As always thank you for the detailed input. You're right the Metropole is pricey. I have signed up for Accor's "rewards" program. I had noted that your favoured homestay is in District 3 in Saigon as well so good to know the location checks out; I wasn't sure about that. I haven't been swayed by lower rates by paying in advance for hotels, so everything is up for grabs at this point!
Regarding the An Lam, I'll do some more research. It had received so many good reviews but I want to make sure it's worth it.
Love the idea of being able to bike to the Hue monuments. And I'd love your wife's recommendations on where to eat. You and I shared some emails a while back so I'll reach out that way. We're starting to hone in on the Anantara in Hoi An. I thought the location looked pretty good.
Thanks again for the advice.
Regarding the An Lam, I'll do some more research. It had received so many good reviews but I want to make sure it's worth it.
Love the idea of being able to bike to the Hue monuments. And I'd love your wife's recommendations on where to eat. You and I shared some emails a while back so I'll reach out that way. We're starting to hone in on the Anantara in Hoi An. I thought the location looked pretty good.
Thanks again for the advice.
Jul 4th, 2018, 10:11 PM
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You are welcome kkkelly. Of course we shared emails! Sorry, I just didn’t connect! I will get the food map details from my wife and email you.
Di Ho above makes a valid point re Ninh Binh. I am sure some people do stay longer but we found two nights there was adequate to take a couple of boat rides, explore the caves, pagodas etc. To save some drive time it may be possible to incorporate it to or from you visit to Ha Long.
Di Ho above makes a valid point re Ninh Binh. I am sure some people do stay longer but we found two nights there was adequate to take a couple of boat rides, explore the caves, pagodas etc. To save some drive time it may be possible to incorporate it to or from you visit to Ha Long.
Jul 8th, 2018, 12:59 AM
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What do you like? Is it the hustle and bustle of cities or nature / peace?
We just arrived back from a 17 night trip (our first time). We had allocated 3 days to Saigon on arrival and 4 days in Hanoi at the end (and the other days were spent in Hue, Hoi An, Mekong Delta and HaLong Bay). The big change we would have made if doing it again would be to cut some time from the cities of Saigon and Hanoi. They were so large and busy we found them really interesting, but not so enjoyable. What we loved were the more tranquil aspects - wandering round the beautiful old town of Hoi An in the evenings as the lanterns came on, a fabulous cooking day involving a market visit in Hoi An, bicycling among the rice paddies and water buffalo in Hoi An, a stunning overnight boat trip on the Mekong Delta (and another enjoyable one in Ha Long Bay), and the sublime peace of our hotel in Hue, Pilgrimage Village, which I would highly recommend. We were glad re visited the cities, don't get me wrong. In particular we really enjoyed eating at the night food market in Saigon, just opposite the main entrance to the Ben Thanh market, and up the street about 50 metres on the right. It was a covered food market with tons of stalls and a seated eating area, full of locals and full of atmosphere - not quite street food, but as close to street food as you could get while still recommended as safe for tourists to eat without fear of repercussions.
Vietnam was fabulous, you will have a great time.
We just arrived back from a 17 night trip (our first time). We had allocated 3 days to Saigon on arrival and 4 days in Hanoi at the end (and the other days were spent in Hue, Hoi An, Mekong Delta and HaLong Bay). The big change we would have made if doing it again would be to cut some time from the cities of Saigon and Hanoi. They were so large and busy we found them really interesting, but not so enjoyable. What we loved were the more tranquil aspects - wandering round the beautiful old town of Hoi An in the evenings as the lanterns came on, a fabulous cooking day involving a market visit in Hoi An, bicycling among the rice paddies and water buffalo in Hoi An, a stunning overnight boat trip on the Mekong Delta (and another enjoyable one in Ha Long Bay), and the sublime peace of our hotel in Hue, Pilgrimage Village, which I would highly recommend. We were glad re visited the cities, don't get me wrong. In particular we really enjoyed eating at the night food market in Saigon, just opposite the main entrance to the Ben Thanh market, and up the street about 50 metres on the right. It was a covered food market with tons of stalls and a seated eating area, full of locals and full of atmosphere - not quite street food, but as close to street food as you could get while still recommended as safe for tourists to eat without fear of repercussions.
Vietnam was fabulous, you will have a great time.
Jul 17th, 2018, 04:11 AM
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Hi Kelly,
Sorry for the delay but I have just emailed you our food maps for Hanoi and Saigon. Also found one for a handful of restaurants in Hoi An.
We didn’t do a map for Hue but did blog about the food and noted the names of our fav places in this blog post https://accidentalnomads.com/2017/06...c-food-in-hue/ .
One place which is not include there is my favourite place, Lac Thien run by a deaf mute family who served up the best Ban Xeo and coldest beer in Vietnam and if your order enough beers you will get a free bottle opener! See below. This guy can open six bottle at a time!
Sorry for the delay but I have just emailed you our food maps for Hanoi and Saigon. Also found one for a handful of restaurants in Hoi An.
We didn’t do a map for Hue but did blog about the food and noted the names of our fav places in this blog post https://accidentalnomads.com/2017/06...c-food-in-hue/ .
One place which is not include there is my favourite place, Lac Thien run by a deaf mute family who served up the best Ban Xeo and coldest beer in Vietnam and if your order enough beers you will get a free bottle opener! See below. This guy can open six bottle at a time!
Jul 19th, 2018, 09:31 AM
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Thanks for the feedback everyone. Apologies for the time it has taken to reply.
DinHo - thanks for the input on the number of days in Ninh Binh - I'd read a good blog post about the number of outdoorsy things we could do there and thought extra time might be a good idea. But I'll make sure that we're not over-doing that leg.
littlejane - thanks for taking the time to share your recent first-timer thoughts. We live in the heart of a big city (Toronto) and love spending time in other cities if there are a lot of historical and cultural attractions or just neighbourhoods to explore. At the same time, we hike and bike and love to explore off the beaten track places too. So we're really up for anything but your notes on your city days vs. time in other places is duly noted. I keep reading in these forums that people aren't giving Hanoi enough time. But I also feel like the Hoi An/Hue part of the trip is a little short.
Crellston - Love this photo! Priceless. Thanks again for the food map. Can't wait to dive into that this weekend.
DinHo - thanks for the input on the number of days in Ninh Binh - I'd read a good blog post about the number of outdoorsy things we could do there and thought extra time might be a good idea. But I'll make sure that we're not over-doing that leg.
littlejane - thanks for taking the time to share your recent first-timer thoughts. We live in the heart of a big city (Toronto) and love spending time in other cities if there are a lot of historical and cultural attractions or just neighbourhoods to explore. At the same time, we hike and bike and love to explore off the beaten track places too. So we're really up for anything but your notes on your city days vs. time in other places is duly noted. I keep reading in these forums that people aren't giving Hanoi enough time. But I also feel like the Hoi An/Hue part of the trip is a little short.
Crellston - Love this photo! Priceless. Thanks again for the food map. Can't wait to dive into that this weekend.
Last edited by kkkKelly; Jul 19th, 2018 at 09:45 AM.
Jul 19th, 2018, 12:08 PM
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Two FULL days imho (three nights) is sufficient in Ninh Binh . if you are looking to switch /add a few days somewhere else, this is where you could consider eliminating one of your four nights.
To confirm my understanding --your plan is to take a prearranged car from where you get off the boat after the Ha Long Bay/Bai Tu Long Bay cruise, and go straight to Ninh Binh, correct? Smart! It isn't an attractive drive, but it will save time over returning to Hanoi and driving from there.
To answer your previous question, boats do not leave from Bai Tu LongBay. BTL is essentially an inlet within the larger Ha Long Bay. You cruise via HLB to where the boat will drop anchor in BTL.. I loved that overnight cruise.
yes, Custom Vietnam travel got a better rate---with an added perk of upgraded room with its own garden patio ---on the rate at Metropole, than i found on my own research via the hotel site or assorted third party booking sites I would never use an agency simply for one thing like that, but if you are doing other activities with them, do check on the possible advantages of booking one or more hotels with them. Re the Metropole--I just read it is son Anthony Bourdain (RIP)'s list of his top ten fav hotels in the world. If you stay there, do NOT miss the evening underground bunker tour, open only to guests.
To confirm my understanding --your plan is to take a prearranged car from where you get off the boat after the Ha Long Bay/Bai Tu Long Bay cruise, and go straight to Ninh Binh, correct? Smart! It isn't an attractive drive, but it will save time over returning to Hanoi and driving from there.
To answer your previous question, boats do not leave from Bai Tu LongBay. BTL is essentially an inlet within the larger Ha Long Bay. You cruise via HLB to where the boat will drop anchor in BTL.. I loved that overnight cruise.
yes, Custom Vietnam travel got a better rate---with an added perk of upgraded room with its own garden patio ---on the rate at Metropole, than i found on my own research via the hotel site or assorted third party booking sites I would never use an agency simply for one thing like that, but if you are doing other activities with them, do check on the possible advantages of booking one or more hotels with them. Re the Metropole--I just read it is son Anthony Bourdain (RIP)'s list of his top ten fav hotels in the world. If you stay there, do NOT miss the evening underground bunker tour, open only to guests.
Jul 22nd, 2018, 09:48 AM
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Thanks, CaliNurse - your posts on this have been helpful. I was thinking about reaching out to Custom Vietnam Travel to help us with arranging travel from HLB to Ninh Binh and also about the cruise itself. I'm also curious about the float plane option from Hanoi to Halong Bay as my husband is a real aviation geek. I think he'd get a real kick out of that. So I thought I'd touch base with them for help in these areas and I'll ask them about the Metropole at the same time. I know I another of your posts about the cruise - was it Indochina Junk you went on? Did you also do a Mekong cruise and if so, did you enjoy it?
We're going to cut Ninh Binh down to 2 days/three nights as advised by all.
Thanks for the input on that.
We're going to cut Ninh Binh down to 2 days/three nights as advised by all.
Thanks for the input on that.
Jul 22nd, 2018, 10:43 AM
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Kelly, I didnt get to Southern VN so no Mekong cruise (yet)!
Yes, I went on one of the Indochina Junk company boats..Dragon Legend. Beautiful boat and trip. The room and bathroom windows were right at sea level! I had a blast and enjoyed everything about the overnight trip, including the fellow travelers from all over the world.
However, I recently read Tripadvisor Custom Vietnam Travel (nearly all excellent reviews) and someone mentioned a different cruise company that CVT used for them to BTL Bay. Also, a post-er on Fodors named I think DBriskin (she wrote a trip report as well) used CVT to book her trip, which included a seaplane ride from Hanoi to the port, so i know the company can help with that.
In the first part of the trip, CVT booked (per my request) great and inexpensive hotels in the Old Quarter but later, ready for a change of scene, I was glad to be in the French quarter at the end of the trip ( had three different stays in Hanoi at different points of the trip). Imho even a night at Metropole is worth the splurge (I stayed in the Opera wing, which cost a bit less) ...it is a part of history, an oasis in Hanoi. If the area itself interests you, a hotel which i passed but have not stayed at, gets very good reviews and is just down the block road from the Metropole (and across the street from Starbucks, lol) is The Conifer Hotel. If i returned to Hanoi and needed a more "budget" option in the French Quarter, i'd book that place!
Anything in that area of French Quarter/Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem lake is easy walkable from one quarter to the others, or "ride-able" via cyclo.
Apologies if this adds too much unwanted info to your plans, but...here goes. Maybe instead of the four nights total you have now decreased to two nights NB, you could do two nights there and two in Mai Chau as part of a "loop" of the boat to NB to Mai Chau back to Hanoi ? This is what i did over four nights after leaving the boat. CVT and other agencies can easily arrange this with a car/driver for you. There are beautiful hiking trails in the mountain-surrounded rice fields just outside Mai Chau town. If this interests you , i will send name of place I stayed, where you can get bikes for the day into the nearby fields/villages. Also, Crellson spent time doing farther afield hikes from MC, iirc. Check his great blog.
Was it you who planned to stay at Tam Coc Gardens? Wish I'd have stayed there instead of Nguyen Shack. There are loads of other accommodation, ranging form hotels to "genuine" homestays, in the NB area. (You do NOT want to stay right IN NB city).
Yes, I went on one of the Indochina Junk company boats..Dragon Legend. Beautiful boat and trip. The room and bathroom windows were right at sea level! I had a blast and enjoyed everything about the overnight trip, including the fellow travelers from all over the world.
However, I recently read Tripadvisor Custom Vietnam Travel (nearly all excellent reviews) and someone mentioned a different cruise company that CVT used for them to BTL Bay. Also, a post-er on Fodors named I think DBriskin (she wrote a trip report as well) used CVT to book her trip, which included a seaplane ride from Hanoi to the port, so i know the company can help with that.
In the first part of the trip, CVT booked (per my request) great and inexpensive hotels in the Old Quarter but later, ready for a change of scene, I was glad to be in the French quarter at the end of the trip ( had three different stays in Hanoi at different points of the trip). Imho even a night at Metropole is worth the splurge (I stayed in the Opera wing, which cost a bit less) ...it is a part of history, an oasis in Hanoi. If the area itself interests you, a hotel which i passed but have not stayed at, gets very good reviews and is just down the block road from the Metropole (and across the street from Starbucks, lol) is The Conifer Hotel. If i returned to Hanoi and needed a more "budget" option in the French Quarter, i'd book that place!
Anything in that area of French Quarter/Old Quarter/Hoan Kiem lake is easy walkable from one quarter to the others, or "ride-able" via cyclo.
Apologies if this adds too much unwanted info to your plans, but...here goes. Maybe instead of the four nights total you have now decreased to two nights NB, you could do two nights there and two in Mai Chau as part of a "loop" of the boat to NB to Mai Chau back to Hanoi ? This is what i did over four nights after leaving the boat. CVT and other agencies can easily arrange this with a car/driver for you. There are beautiful hiking trails in the mountain-surrounded rice fields just outside Mai Chau town. If this interests you , i will send name of place I stayed, where you can get bikes for the day into the nearby fields/villages. Also, Crellson spent time doing farther afield hikes from MC, iirc. Check his great blog.
Was it you who planned to stay at Tam Coc Gardens? Wish I'd have stayed there instead of Nguyen Shack. There are loads of other accommodation, ranging form hotels to "genuine" homestays, in the NB area. (You do NOT want to stay right IN NB city).
Last edited by CaliNurse; Jul 22nd, 2018 at 10:45 AM. Reason: typos
Jul 22nd, 2018, 01:45 PM
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Wow, CaliNurse thanks for the suggestions. I don't think I've posted about Tam Coc Gardens but we've been all over their website and it's top of our list. Looks beautiful. And while we're on the subject of hotels, the Metropole has captivated me for years so I feel compelled to stay there at this point!
I'll read up on Mai Chau. I'm also considering adding the extra night onto the Hue/Hoi An segment that would allow us to do a cooking class day and a mountain bike day (come on, weather ... deal us a good hand!).
I'll read through some of the CVT reviews for the cruise reco. I'm so glad you put on us to them. I like to have these types of things nailed down in advance.
I'll read up on Mai Chau. I'm also considering adding the extra night onto the Hue/Hoi An segment that would allow us to do a cooking class day and a mountain bike day (come on, weather ... deal us a good hand!).
I'll read through some of the CVT reviews for the cruise reco. I'm so glad you put on us to them. I like to have these types of things nailed down in advance.
