12 nights in Japan - draft itinerary
 

Hello all,

We have twelve nights in Japan (May). I would love to hear from fellow travellers their opinions on our draft itinerary. Comments and suggestions are welcomed. This trip to Japan is a dream coming true to both of us and I want to make it as perfect as possible.
We are travellers on a budget so no expensive ryokans or kaiseki dinners this time (which is a good excuse to return to Japan)

Husband and I are on our early 40s. We are slow travellers by nature and prefer to have a "home base" instead of moving from one hotel to another every two days. We're definitely interested in Japanese culture then scenery. Our Japan is pretty much the dreamy country of moss and moon reflections on water. Silk kimonos and magnificent pottery. Of wind rustling bamboo leaves and incense clouds on temples.

Although I am sure we will surely appreciate the modern side of the country we are definitely not looking for it. Same applies to shopping and/or nightlife. We tend to prefer the off the beaten path. Interests are: food, gardens, crafts, architecture, buddhism, markets (not necessarily shopping) and observe the daily life.

The itinerary so far is as follows:

2 nights Tokyo, 6 nights in Kyoto, 2 nights at Shojoshin monastery in Mount Koya and back to Tokyo for the last two nights.

Advice on day trips from Tokyo are welcomed - Kamakura? NikkoW
We also plan to visit the Himeji castle as a day trip from Kyoto.

For Tokyo: I am considering a small hotel in Asakusa as all guides tell me this is the "old Tokyo" neighbourhood. Any suggestions?

Thank you all in advance.

Hello.

I actually think this looks pretty good. You essentially have 4 nights in Tokyo, 6 in Kyoto and 2 in Koya. You can never spend too much time in Kyoto, IMO. And it sounds like Mt. Koya is right up your alley.

Day trips from Tokyo would be Hakone, Kamakura and/or Nikko. We did Kamakura and Hakone (we stayed overnight in Hakone).

From Kyoto, in addition to your visit to Himeji, I would also recommend a day trip to Nara and Hiryuji.

We stayed in a lovely little ryokan in Asakusa called Ryokan Shigetsu. I'd recommend you look into it. I don't remember it being at all expensive and it's in a great location.

Another place you might want to consider visiting is Miyajima, which is near to Hiroshima. I think it meets your interests. This would require taking two nights away from Kyoto and/or Tokyo (or 1 from each).

For incense clouds in temples, go to Sanjusangendo in Kyoto....

Your itinerary looks fine to me as well. If possible flying into NRT and out of KIX might enable you to have time for a trip to Miyajima rather than spending the last two nights in Tokyo.

For another day trip in Kyoto, please consider the Miho Museum - it is about an hour from Kyoto via train and bus.
http://miho.jp/english/index.htm

Enjoy!

PS I am a budget traveler as well - you don't need expensive ryokans and kaiseki dinners to enjoy Japan IMO.

Your itinerary is alright. Not rushed which is good. Kyoto has so much to see with its culture and history. I think you will love Koyasan. I stayed at Sekishoin, which is right next to Shojoshin. It is a good location right next to Ichinohashi, the entrance to Okunoin cemetery. I used the services of the Koyasan Interpreter Guide Club to take me to the various sites. Make sure you go see the monks bring Kobo Daishi his meals. They've been doing it everyday for over a thousand years.

Thank you all for your answers. I am glad to know the itinerary is ok. I love the planning part of a trip but I cannot help feeling a bit stressed with this Japan trip. Your comments were much appreciated and calmed me down a bit.

- jaydreb5 - thank you for the Tokyo's Ryokan suggestion, I found the website and included it on our finalists' list.

- Mara - Unfortunately we have a closed deal regarding flights and cannot change the airport.

- akaw - I have the same feeling that I'll love Koyasan.

I did some extra work on it and now the itinerary includes hotels and ideas. As always comments and suggestions are welcomed. If we are doing too much on a day let us know, as I said, we like to slow down and "merge" :-)

I am still trying to figure out the transportation bit - will probably spend the weekend doing that - but if someone has already any idea of what to do regarding passes please let us know.



14 May - Wed - Arrival at Narita (1:00AM) > hotel (by bus? underground?)
Still undecided but options of hotels narrowed to 3 alternatives in Asakusa - 1) Ryokan Katsutaro, 2)Toyoko-inn Senzoku, 3)Ryokan Shigetsu. The Toyoko-inn is the cheapest one (including breakfast and taxes).
It's a slow day - plans are to recuperate from flight, taking a leisurely a walk through the neighbourhood close to the hotel - a visit to Sensoji Temple is the only thing on the list. We intend to try to stay up as late as we can to adjust to the new time zone, but at the same time not to get too far from the bed when one of us - probably me! - hits the zombie stage :-).

15 May - Thu - Everybody tells us we will be wide awake at the break of dawn. I though of take advantage of this and head to the Tsukiji Fish Market for a breakfast of fresh sushi, after that head to Hama Rikyu, one of Tokyo's best Japanese gardens (my info says it opens at 9am), and after spending as much time as we feel like board a ferry for a cruise up the Sumida River to Asakusa. Is it "too little" to do? Anything interesting in the neighborhood we are missing and should include?

16 May - Fri - Tokyo > Kyoto by train - can someone confirm that we should try to get seats on the right side of the train, so we can see Mt. Fuji from the window? Still no info regarding train passes (haven't done my homework on that yet) - suggestions welcomed

Staying at the Nagomiyado TOWA - recommended by a friend - http://www.kyotowa.jp/english/index.html

Nothing really planned for this arrival day in Kyoto - it is a sort of an "open day" - as I have no info on what time we will be leaving Tokyo, neither how long does it take to arrive to Kyoto/hotel. I will probably consult the hotel staff for recommendations on what to do that day.

17 May - Sat - Do a self-guided walk through eastern Kyoto, specially Sanjusangendo Hall, Kiyomizu Temple, and Heian Shrine with its garden. Is the Kyoto Handicraft Center worth visiting?

18 May - Sun - Continue visiting Kyoto - Nijo Castle; Kyoto Imperial Palace; Ryoanji Temple and the Zen rock garden; and of course the Golden Pavilion. In the evening, head for Gion, perhaps an evening performance at Gion Corner (?).

19 May - Mon - If still working - a friend told me he is quite elderly - the day is reserved for a Johnny Hillwalker tour.

20 May - Tue - Kyoto - Day trip to Himeji Castle

21 May - Wed - Kyoto - maybe day trip to Miho Museum?

22 May - Thu - Kyoto to Nara > to Mount Koya Temple - Early in the morning, head for Nara, to see Todaiji Temple and the deer. From Nara, take the Kintetsu train to Kintetsu Namba Station in Osaka, transferring there for a train and cable car to Mount Koya.
Staying at Shojoshinin - http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/d...hojoshinin.htm

23 May - Fri - Mount Koya Temple

24 May - Sat - Mount Koya > Tokyo - I will have to do some serious gift shopping here (mainly yukatas for grown ups and small trinkets/girly makeup for teenagers - is it a good plan to head to a huge department store and lose a couple of hours in one? What would be the best one? A friend suggested Takashimaya.

25 May - Sun - Tokyo - stay in Tokyo or visit Kamakura?

26 May - Mon - Fly home (AM)

monteverano - just a few comments...

Your detailed itinerary looks great.

I have another ryokan for you to consider in Tokyo - Katsutaro Annex - on the same website as the one you mentioned. I stayed there in '04 - it is a nice residential neighborhood - Yanaka - convenient to a subway and the JR Yamanote line - two stops past Ueno.

The Miho Museum can be a half day trip as it is in the middle of nowhere and it is not a huge museum.

Himeji-jo also can be done in half a day plus there is a great garden around the corner from it - can't remember the name now.

Your trip will not work with a seven day JR pass - you will have to do the math to see if a 14 day pass is worth it in your case. I use hyperdia.com for train schedules and prices.

I highly recommend the J. Hillwalker tour - I did it in '06 on my first day in Kyoto.

I'm sure you know it is quite a long trip from Koyasan to Tokyo....

There are a lot of wonderful museums in Tokyo.

On the 21st, you might want to plan a trip to Toji Temple's outdoor market day (close to Kyoto station, a few blocks on the "other" side of the station away from central Kyoto, easy to walk to from Kyoto Station). Very colorful and fun, great bargains, handmade goods, wonderful food stalls, etc. I would not miss it.

Yes, on the way from Tokyo to Kyoto, Fuji will be visible from right side of the train (that is right side if you are standing inside the train with your face towards the front of the train, not standing outside in front of the train!)

On the 20th, it won't take a full day to get to Himeji and see the castle. That's a half day itinerary.

@ Mara - thank you for the second ryokan indication and the link for the trains. I'll have a lookover the weekend.

I had no idea it's a long trip from Koyasan to Tokyo, thanks for mentioning it. I'll review my plans.

@ emd - many, many thanks for the Toji Temple's outdoor market day tip. That's exactly what we would love to do! I'll make a note in the itinerary. And I will make sure I'll be facing the right extremity of the train! :-)

To you both many thanks for the comment to Himeji being a half day trip!

That's why I love this forum. :-)

Now back to work in the itinerary! :-)

As per emd, you could do Toji and the market and then go to the Miho Museum as you are not too far from the station - although I remember it was a much longer walk than I thought but it was raining that day.

I went to Toji first but it was not a big market the day I was there.

I didn't mean to imply that the trip from Koyasan to Tokyo was not doable - just that it would take a big slice out of your day. I was going to do that same trip but unfortunately I had to leave Japan after three days due to an accident - broke my foot ):

Also, I love your inn in Kyoto - I saved it for future reference, thanks.

Hi Mara,

I am actually grateful you mentioned the trip will eat up a good amount of my day. I had no idea of that. That means no way I will drag a husband behind me to go shopping for gifts that day (laughing).

The Kyoto inn seems really nice. My friend has only good things to say about it. I promise to write a detailed report on my return.

Cheers,

Francesca

In your OP you mentioned pottery and "off the beaten path". I thought I might see Hagi or a tour of the pottery towns of Saga prefecture.

You'd about break even on a 14-day JR Pass if you used it both ways between Narita Airport and Tokyo.

Or you could use a 7-day JR Pass to go from Narita Airport to Tokyo (and in Tokyo to some minor extent) to Kyoto to Himeji to Kyoto.

Thank you very much mrwunrfl for the pottery tips and the comments on the JR Pass. Working on it today. :-)

Hi, monteverano -

I think your trip sounds great!

If you have time while in Nara, you might consider stopping at Kofukuji's treasure hall. I found the statues there to be among the most beautiful and most expressive I saw while in Japan - a favorite memory for me!

And while in Koyasan, consider walking through Okunoin at dusk or dawn. It is right next to Shojoshinin (which I hope you enjoy as much as I did)!

Hope that helps!

Thank you kja! I have added you suggestion to my "to do" list. :-)

Boookmarking for forthcoming trip to Japan. Some good suggetions in here.

bonjour monteverano,

<<<14 May - Wed - Arrival at Narita (1:00AM) > hotel (by bus? underground?)

Train. Either JR Narita express to Tokyo or better, Keisei Skyliner to Ueno (1920 yens for reserved seats, 1 hour to a small station with a tourism office inside).

<<Still undecided but options of hotels narrowed to 3 alternatives in Asakusa - 1) Ryokan Katsutaro, 2)Toyoko-inn Senzoku, 3)Ryokan Shigetsu. The Toyoko-inn is the cheapest one (including breakfast and taxes).

Ryokan Katsutaro is not in Asakusa but near Ueno station - 10-15 min on foot. You've got to walk around Ueno park to get anywhere, and it's not all that close from the more interesting parts of Yanaka. For this area, I'd favour the Annex Katsutaro that is better located in terms of general access and proximity to Yanaka. Toyoko inn Senzoku is a bit out of the way for Asakusa, although not all that far, and the breakfast is mostly miso soup and rice balls. There's a lot of cheap places for "morning service" in the neighbourhood, though. The best location is Shigetsu, right beside the temple and within 1 min of 3 subway/train stations (Ginza, Asakusa and Tobu-Nikko lines) and the "Water bus". Consider also the place I've been staying in for 20 days over the new year holidays, Asakusa Mikawaya Honten, 1 street down from Shigetsu. The owners, an old couple, are really nice (they even offered to do my washing for free), or the Family Hotel Kamogawa next door. You can book them all through www.itcj.jp .

<<<15 May - Thu - Everybody tells us we will be wide awake at the break of dawn. I though of take advantage of this and head to the Tsukiji Fish Market for a breakfast of fresh sushi, after that head to Hama Rikyu, one of Tokyo's best Japanese gardens (my info says it opens at 9am), and after spending as much time as we feel like board a ferry for a cruise up the Sumida River to Asakusa. Is it "too little" to do? Anything interesting in the neighborhood we are missing and should include?

You should rather take a ferry to Hinode Pier, then change for Odaiba, or Big Sight, or the Museum of Maritime science, or even Shinagawa aquarium (the aquarium isn't worth it but the cruise is). Buy a one day free ticket for Yen 1890, it's better value than buying each segment.

<<<<<Nothing really planned for this arrival day in Kyoto - it is a sort of an "open day" - as I have no info on what time we will be leaving Tokyo, neither how long does it take to arrive to Kyoto/hotel. I will probably consult the hotel staff for recommendations on what to do that day.

Start with visiting the tourist office in Kyoto station (9th floor, take the south elevator in Isetan dept store) and ask for a paper copy of Kyoto Visitor's Guide as well as for maps and itineraries.

17 May - Sat - Do a self-guided walk through eastern Kyoto,….. . Is the Kyoto Handicraft Center worth visiting?

Not really. Rather go to the Museum of traditional craft (Fureaikan) inside Miyako Messe near Heian shrine, or visit craftsmen studios listed in Kyoto Visitor's guide.


18 May - Sun - Continue visiting Kyoto - Nijo Castle; Kyoto Imperial Palace; Ryoanji Temple and the Zen rock garden; and of course the Golden Pavilion. In the evening, head for Gion, perhaps an evening performance at Gion Corner (?).

There's a nice small flea/antiques market in the shrine dedicated to Toyokuni Hideyoshi on the 18th. (5 min on foot going north from Sanjusangendo along the street next to the Museum).

21 May - Wed - Kyoto - maybe day trip to Miho Museum?

No way. On that day, you go to Kobo-San, the big fleamarket at Toji temple south of the station ! ;-)

24 May - Sat - Mount Koya > Tokyo - I will have to do some serious gift shopping here (mainly yukatas for grown ups and small trinkets/girly makeup for teenagers - is it a good plan to head to a huge department store and lose a couple of hours in one? What would be the best one? A friend suggested Takashimaya.


Any department store will have a good kimono department, but you will already have found lots of excellent stuff in Asakusa and in Kyoto...

Florence is back home! What wonderful thigns did you bring back this time from Kyoto?? Do tell.

Bonjour Eilen,

I didn't buy lots of stuff this time, except tons of reference books in Japanese for, I hope, the benefit of all on this forum (and another one in French I'm also part of), and some excellent drawings from the late Edo period that I intend to frame in a more or less traditional way, and of course, the odd ceramics, rolls of fabric, etc.

I'm working on a trip report with lots of details that I should post by the end of the month.