Jackie

We (traveling with my sister, both 60+ and currently from NC where we are use to heat and humidity) are midway through our trip to SE Asia. Wanted to post on the Vietnam portion mostly to thank the Crellstons for serving as our Fodor’s “friends”, guides and consultants.

Vietnam was a last minute replacement for Myanmar after we decided to cancel that leg of the trip. By that time, trip planning fatigue set in so I came to Fodor’s for advice. Crellston and others chimed in and suggested Vietnam. It was an excellent suggestion. We decided on Hanoi, Ha Long Bay, Tam Coc and Mai Chau. It just so happened that the Crellstons were in Hanoi the same time as us and we planned a Fodor’s GTG. Very appreciative of that as Hanoi was chaotic and insane drivers caused much angst. Carolyn and Clive got us on the right track. We ended up meeting twice for Pho at two of their favorite places, drinks afterwards and walks around the lake. We even managed to find an excellent local IPA that has yet to be matched. They suggested an electric cart around old town for day 1 and a private driver for day 2 to see the local sites. Again excellent suggestions since we were afraid to cross Hanoi streets ��. The 2 stand out places for me were the women’s museum for all the textiles and ethnic clothing and the Hanoi Hilton/Hanoi jail which was quite sobering. We stayed at the Hotel Marvellous which truly lives up to their name.

From Hanoi, we did the one night cruise in Ha long Bay with Indochine Junk. They provided a luxury van with WiFi for the 3 hour drive. The scenery in the bay was stunning. The food was very good. The rooms were okay. Something seemed off, I think it may have been that others kept to themselves and were not very friendly. Since I enjoy meeting people from all over while traveling, this was a disappointment. I wondered ahead of time if we should do 1 or 2 nights. One night was sufficient. Tours from the boat included kayaking, going to a cave, an ancient fishing village and a pearl farm. The times for these were set and not flexible. The tours required boat to boat transfers which were awkward and made me feel my age, but people were there to help.

From there we had a private driver take us to Tam Coc garden in Minh Binh. That was a perfect stay. Only wish we had more than 1 night. Everything about it was excellent-the service, the room, the scenery, the food, the wine. It’s been my favorite stay so far.

From there, the same driver took us to Mai Chau. A 3-hour drive turned into 6-hours after we were met with several road blocks. Our driver didn’t speak English, so all we knew was that the “road was broken”. We traveled on one-lane, bumpy, dirt roads only to have to turn around and find other options. Driver would stop and ask for help and I would see people pointing in opposite directions. He could see our anxiety and several times called main office and handed us the phone. I was told the driver would find us a way out; I was hoping he would take us back to Tam Coc. Eventually got on the paved road. Very mountainous and scenery was amazing. Roads were curvy with lots of cars passing impassable lanes. Portion of road looked like it had been washed out. We eventually made it to the Mai Chau Eco Lodge for 3 nights. Compared to other places we stayed during this trip, the hotel, food and service were okay. Hotel sits in a valley surrounded by rice fields and mountains. Setting is beautiful. We got to see rice being harvested. After harvesting, they burn the stalks which caused the valley to be very hazy. Hotel offers trekking and biking. We walked around to the 3 local villages while shopping in all of them.

The lodge arranged for a shuttle back to Hanoi for a night before returning to Thailand. Signing off now from Chiang Mai to get to my 2 hour message and attend the lantern festival.

crellston

It was great to meet you guys. We really enjoyed our time with you both. My apologies frogetting us slightly lost in search of a beer. In future I will heed your advice and listen to my wife whose sense of direction is far better than mine!

Sounds as though you had quite the adventure getting from Ninh Binh to Mai Chau. Possibly the after effects of the typhoon?

Enjoy your massage and the Lantern festival.

Tdiddy12

HI Jackie,
How did you find your private drivers?
Thanks,
Tdiddy

Jackie

Sorry for not replying sooner, but just seeing your post. For the Vietnam portion of our trip, I got the name of the private driver from one of the trip reports I read here in Fodors. Here is the contact information: [email protected]. Below are the prices I was quoted:

Hanoi - Mai Chau is $90
Mai Chau - Ninh Binh is $80
Ninh Binh Ha Long is $85

We used him from Halong Bay to Nin Binh and then again from NB to Mai Chau. Our driver didn't speak English. The lack of English only became a problem when he couldn't find a main road leading to Mai Chau and we didn't know what was happening (there were road closures likely the result of a typhoon that had just occurred). We asked a lot of questions and he would then pick up the phone and contact the office each time to have us speak to the main person who explained the rerouting. It was all very nerve racking at the time, but in the end, the lack of English didn't make a difference. Just be aware that may happen.

For pick ups from and to the hotel in Hanoi, we made arrangements through our hotel (Hotel Marvelous). Hotel also made arrangements for the personal driver the day we toured Hanoi. For transportation to Halong Bay we used the luxury van offered by Indochine Junk; from Mai Chau we used van from the hotel. Vans were very comfortable.

ventori

Why don't you visit Hoi An ancient town? It's a peaceful ancient town, and local food very good! I'm Vietnamese, I also visit Hoi An in many times!

thursdaysd

If you have visited Hoi An 'many times" you should know perfectly well it is no longer anything approaching peaceful, being overwhelmed with tourists.

ventori

You're absolutely right! But in my own opinion, I found peace and tranquillity in my heart when walking on the street there, especially on the noon or rainy days. On rainy days, Hoi An so quiet and poetic. The rain makes water rose up and fill the whole town, people moving by boat instead of walking or driving. You will have chances sitting on a boat and explore Hoi An ancient town. As sitting on the boat, you’ll feel like as being strolling around Venice, but this a Venice of The East.

crellston

You may find peace and tranquility in your heart but you definitely won’t find it in Hoi An!

LancasterLad

I stuck my knee in the back of more than one stupid spatially unaware camera toting French tourist down at the Hoi An riverside market. I hate excited tour groups, no matter what nationality they are.....no respect for others, and particularly no respect for invading the space of local people and not seeking permission before pointing a camera lens practically into their face.

We were in Hoi An for a very enjoyable week, and didn't find it too overwhelmingly touristy or difficult to navigate around. Certainly crossing the roads, mostly not too wide, was no where near as bad or chaotic as in Saigon or Hanoi.

Boveney

We too enjoyed three nights in Hoi An earlier this month and like LancasterLad didn't find it too overwhelmingly touristy. Made us glad we ignored all the warnings of 'don't bother, it's been totally ruined, not like when we were there...." Same story with Luang Prabang - so glad we ignored the naysayers. But favourite place in VN so far: Hue.

Tdiddy12

Hi Boveney,
Did you stay in Hoi An and if so where? Also same question for Hue.
Thanks,
Tdiddy

LancasterLad

We stayed at Travel Lodge Hotel, on the perimeter of the Old Town.....

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_..._Province.html

It was recommended to us by Crellston.....very convenient, and not expensive.

Boveney

In Hoi An we stayed at the Ha-An Hotel in the Old Town, really lovely small hotel in a beautiful colonial building, rooms set around a garden. Facilities include small pool, spa and a restaurant . Excellent breakfasts - including fruit juice squeezed to order. Very friendly service. We ate dinner there only on the last night, one of the best meals we had. Highly recommended.

I''m especially glad you asked about Hue though because I'd meant to post about the Saigon Morin Hotel. We absolutely loved it - had a hard time figuring out where to stay - so many people here rate La Residence highly but the location is awful. Plus it was significantly more expensive than the Saigon Morin. The Saigon Morin is in the heart of where a visitor needs to be - we walked everywhere: to the Citadel, the boat landing, the market. It is just on the edge of the 'walking street' neighbourhood with all the restaurants. But more than that, this is an old hotel with great character - one of the great old hotels of Asia. And I am writing here as someone who remembers the old Oriental from childhood days and who stayed in the Strand in the 1980s before it got tarted up into the monstrosity it is today. Beautiful garden, fantastic colonial building - and eccentric touches such a nightly showings of Charlie Chaplin movies in the garden and in the bar - and instead of a chocolate on the pillow, a little beribboned scroll with a Viet Namese folk tale printed on it. It is a big hotel, so lacks the warm intimacy of the Ha-An, but we are glad we chose the Saigon Morin. Many of the other guests during our stay were Viet Namese in town for the Hue Festival. Great atmosphere.

crellston

We have stayed in maybe five or six places in Hue over the years including both the Saigon Morin and La Residence. Whilst La Residence may be a little out of the centre, it is hands down the best hotel in town. Superb Art Deco architecture, unsurprising as it apparently used to be the French consulate. The rooms are very spacious and those overlooking the perfume river have great views. It is reasonably close to the bridge to cross over to visit othe citadel etc. It is however, expensive for Hue.

The Saigon Morin, whilst closer in to the central area, I found to be dark and more than a little soulless. All a matter of taste I suppose.

If you are happy with a smaller, local type place, then there are dozens to choose from.

In Hoi An we liked the travelodge for its great room designs, its location just outside of the crowded old town but above all, te staff were fantastic. Our first time in Hoi An was 20 odd years, but then we stayed at the Ving Hung Merchants house right in the centre of the old
town, once used by Michael Caine as his dressing room when filming "The Quiet American" - one of the most atmospheric rooms we have ever stayed in.

Boveney

Yes, all a matter of taste so we'll agree to disagree! But I have read the description of 'dark' applied here to the Saigon Morin and just can't understand that. We were upgraded to room facing the river so perhaps that made a difference. The long hotel corridors are open to the garden on one side which affords light and views. It is not gleaming bright like Sofitel's La Residence but we found it the very opposite of 'soulless' although this hotel was much larger than those we usually prefer. By the way, La Residence is undergoing renovation at the moment so that should be factored into decisions.

Boveney

CORRECTION - in post above I referred to the Strand - Senior Moment! I meant Raffles. Apologies. The old Raffles was definitely dark - but wonderful.

Kathie

Boveney, I wondered what you were on about when you wrote "Strand in the 1980s before it got tarted up into the monstrosity it is today." The Strand is one of my favorites, and while it has had a little updating, it remains firmly in the past. I love old hotels and "collect" old Sarkie Brothers hotels. (That said, I've never stayed at Raffles)

Thanks for your clarification.

CounterClifton

Vietnam in general and Hanoi in particular are probably my favourite places to travel but like some others, Hoi An I found too touristy. It's a bit more "normal" up around the market but otherwise, I found anything historic to be polished to a neatly matching shine for tourism, right down to matchy-matchy signs on each building. Though I will say the architecture in that small ancient town area is gorgeous and it's fantastic that it's been so well restored or maintained, it no longer has a feel of somewhere people actually live. It's pretty much all cafes, tourist shops, galleries and the key buildings are basically museums. Which does give you a lot to do as a tourist, but I find it hard to not see that area as very touristy. Sometimes it's swamped with people selling trinkets and lanterns after dark (and every night is now "the lantern festival") and some nights it's quiet. Still lovely people and we enjoyed getting to know the locals, but it doesn't feel like the rest of Vietnam towns, IMO. I understand from others who returned and were disappointed that it's changed quite a bit in the last 10 years or so.

ventori

Even though Hoi An too touristy and commercialized, but it's the only place where still retain the ancient architectural features and the peaceful pace. Whenever feeling pressure, I often visit Hoi An, just wandering the streets and photographing everything there.