Where should I go on safari?

Old Mar 11th, 2011, 03:40 AM
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Where should I go on safari?

Hi everyone,

I have been trying to figure out where to head on safari. My wife and I are keen photographers, and this may be our only trip to Africa.

We can't decide where we should go. We have narrowed it down the following

1) Kenya

2) Northern Tanzania

3) SA & Botswana.

Which would be the best for photography?

Are there any good tips on how some people get better photos? I just saw a blog on here with amazing pics.

Thanks in advance,

John
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 03:50 AM
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http://www.porinisafaricamps.com/res...le-tourism.htm

Best pictures for me

come with best gear esperience

patience time and proper guiding

away from the madding tourist herds.

Careful Research yields better experience.

insuremytrip.com always wise.
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 05:56 AM
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James Weis runs several safaris each year that are specifically for photographers -- you can get more info at http://www.eyesonafrica.net/photo-safari.htm.

Andy Biggs, with whom James sometimes works and who is also a well-known photographer/safari-goer, also has several safaris and workshops -- see http://www.andybiggs.com/content.php?page=safaris for info.

Most people, especially safari first-timers, don't go on specialized safaris, yet they still come back with some superb photos and/or videos. Choice of country isn't necessarily the most important factor: time of year, quality of guiding, and your control of the vehicle are just as important.

Many safari areas have different conditions depending on the season -- for example, wet seasons have more vegetation and background color (but different lighting and harder-to-find land animals. An average guide can find the game you want to photograph, but it's only the best guides who understand where to place the vehicle for the best photography, and where the animals will be moving to (as opposed to where they already are). Finally, if you are sharing your vehicle with other travelers, you won't necessarily be able to set up and get the same shots as if you have exclusive control of the vehicle.
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 07:02 AM
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John,

I am not a keen photgrapher and no longer even carry a camera on safari, but I am quite familiar with the requirements of these types of trips. Several of my colleagues are really good and some have even had their Africa animal photgraphy published in major news magazines so I often lean on them for advice.

For the best photography of scenery, local cultures, and iconic African sights such as Mt. Kilimanjaro and Ngorongoro Crater, East Africa is the place to go hands down. Kenya & Tanzania are quite similar although between the two Kenya tends to be better value for money and also has more options for game-viewing in private conservancies, such as Lewa in Northern Kenya. However, with very few exceptions, most game-viewing areas in East Africa are National Parks (like the Serengeti) and National Reserves (like the Maasai Mara) that do not allow off-roading. Therefore, Southern Africa is better for photographing wildlife up-close without the need for super expensive high zoom lenses. A 400mm lens will ensure absolutely spectacular close-ups but in Southern Africa such a zoom may not even be necessary. In most cases, you will approach game off-road and sometimes be literally within 25-75 feet or so from lion prides, leopards and all the big game and cats that most people are keen to see on safari including the Big Five: Elephant, Rhino, Buffalo, Leopard and Lion.

Botswana does offer some incredible scenery to photograph in its own right, as the Okavango Delta, the world’s largest inland Delta is quite photogenic and extremely unique. Aerial shots in both East and Southern Africa can be quite spectacular, however the big difference is that in East Africa you are photographing incredible mountains and the Great Rift Valley, while Botswana in contrast is quite flat. South Africa does have some incredible scenic spots also in the Kruger Area and at Blyde River Canyon and Devil’s peak.

However, you are most likely keen on photographing wildlife. In a nutshell, in East Africa there is generally the chance to capture images of larger herds of wildebeest, zebra and antelope, while Southern Africa can offer better opportunities for world-class close-ups. That said, Botswana has some of the largest herds of elephants anywhere in Africa. In both places the wildlife is generally quite habituated, as long as you steer clear of areas where hunting is still taking place nearby. This can make the animals quite skittish in, for example, certain areas of Ruaha National Park in Southern Tanzania. In my opinion, Botswana’s Okavango Delta and particularly the Wilderness Safari Camps offer some of the best photographic opportunities in Southern Africa. So do the private game reserves in the Sabi Sand just outside of Kruger National Park in South Africa. Andy Biggs and James Weis run their Botswana trips mentioned above in Wilderness Safari camps.

While I feel that East Africa is better for photographing various aspects of Africa including wildlife, scenery and local cultures, I do think that Southern Africa is better for wildlife photography. This is because of the close proximity that is very common between safari vehicles and the wildlife as you are not confined to photographing from the main roads and tracks, as is generally the case in East Africa.

Finally, in addition to a proper lens with preferably a 300mm zoom, lenses with vibration reduction will also make a huge difference in the sharpness of your images. For nice scenery shots that capture the huge expansive spaces in Africa and open plains, a wide angle lens is ideal. An intro photography course can go a long way in getting nice shots. Also a digital SLR camera is essential, although it is a bit of an investment, so is going on safari. If you are a keen photographer, it will be a good investment that you will enjoy in your future travels and can be used for capturing great images of your everyday events.

Hope this helps.

Crag Beal - owner - Travel Beyond
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 07:39 AM
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SA & Botswana. But that's bit too simplistic.
First question, what do you want to photograph? The big 5, landscape, people? Example, if cheetah is your main interest then its Kenya or Tanzania. If it's leopard then SA or Botswana. Lions, all of the above. Landscape, classical plains Africa, then Kenya and Tanzania.

You photograph during your game drives. So having a guide that knows where the game is and can position the vehicle for photos is most important. Number one is you guide/ranger and one who understands photography. And the other number one requirement is being able to go off road to position the vehicle for photos. Most national parks and conservation areas, e.g. Kruger Park (SA), Ngoronogoro Crater (TZ), Serengeti (TZ) , Moremi (BA) do not allow off roading. Thus you are stuck. Stuck with the photo and light angle you have from the road, and that distance to the subject, and perhaps 15 other vehicles jockeying around for position. (Yes, just got back from safari in TZ where saw/in lots of this).

However, some park conservation areas do allow off road vehicles, Ndutu (TZ) area for one. But off roading is most likely to be permitted in private reserves. Many private safari camps in Botswana and Kenya allow off roading. But I am most familiar with SA private reserves that border Kruger park on the west side. These reserves share un-fenced border with Kruger park and thus wildlife is free to roam over a huge area. It is not like a "game farm". Kruger is the size of our state New Jersey. Two of these private reserves are the Timbavati and Sabi Sand reserves. Each reserve is made up of private property within which are several private safari camps. To name two camps - in Timbavati, Kings Camp, http://www.kingscamp.com/ , and in Sabi Sand MalaMala, http://www.malamala.com/ .

Bottom line is - if keen on photography, go to a private reserve camp. Private camp vehicles go off road and control the number of vehicles at a sighting (typically 3).

And finally - in photography as in the old wild west - it is not the arrows but the Indian that counts.

regards - tom
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 07:59 AM
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Thank you for your detailed replies. That has put a couple of points into perspective.

Craig & and Tom, you have convinced me on the private reserves, probably southern Africa.

Have you taken a photographic safari with someone like Andy Biggs? What are the benefits?

After reading the links, having your own row in the vehicle seems like a big advantage? As well as their experience.
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 08:06 AM
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I can highly endorse MalaMala and Kings Camp.

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 08:43 AM
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You're welcome John - I have not been on photo safari with Andy or any other professional leader. But I sure would if my budget would allow it. Benefits - Andy lists many, go to this (his) link and down a ways he discusses this. http://www.andybiggs.com/content.php?page=safaris

Having your own vehicle row is a big advantage for photography. And having others with you keen on photography helps. And also if they are not "newbies" to safari. (This could be problem with some "photo" safaris?) You can also arrange with the camps to have your own, private vehicle and guide - for additional $$$. But I have had many many great game drives sharing a vehicle with other camp guests. It again really goes back to your guide/ranger, their knowledge of the wildlife and "people" skills knowing what the guests want when they do not themselves know it.

Our favorite safari (thus far ) is to fly USA to Jo'burg (JNB SA) rent a car from Avis drive over to Kruger park for 3-5 days. This lets us (attempt to) recover from the 11 hour time difference. And is not costly and lots of fun, like, finding yourself alone surrounded by large herd of elephants. We then leave the car with Avis agent and stay several nights in two private camps in the Timbavati and/or Sabi Sand reserves. After each safari I write a Fodors trip report and put up a few snaps on smugmug. Here is link to those snaps if you wish - http://tomgraham.smugmug.com/
Also there under folder MAPS is a map of those reserves relative to Kruger park and surrounding towns. Will give you an overview of that area.

regards - tom
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 09:10 AM
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Tom,

Your photos look great. Seems you have had a number of wonderful adventures. We would need to take time off work, so driving ourselves is not that appealing.


Have you spent much time in Botswana?

Andy's safaris look incredible, as do all his images.

I noticed this safari on his site, led by photographer Russell Johnson. We can not get away in July for the safari that he leds.

http://www.andybiggs.com/content.php...11-11-Botswana

What do you think of it?
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 10:24 AM
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Hello John ,

I have been in Kenya 3 times , Botswana 2 , Namibia , South Africa and Tanzanya , always with photography in mind.

All those countries offer excellent opportunities for a great photography experience , every one with their highlights .

If you just want to photograph the wildlife or the landscape it is fine to share vehicles but if you seriously want to get the special animal behavior , work on composition , best light , etc , hire a private guide and vehicle , it would the best investment for your photography results.

Take a look at some galleries of the pictures i took over the last 7 years in those countries so you can have an idea of what to find in each one :

http://www.pbase.com/africawild

Good luck .
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 10:36 AM
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John,

I have been to Botswana many times. The photo workshop you posted above is a good one using good camps. Russel is a well known photgrapher and also contributes on this forum. The rates in Botswana drop significantly on November 1 which is one reason the price is lower. Also, the Kwando camps on Russel's trip are less than the Wilderness Camps on a nightly basis.

If you like the price of the November trip but want the July trip camps you would be well served to book the same camps as the July trip in November using a private vehicle. It should come out to about the same price as Russel's trip but you would not have a group leader. It will not likely be possible to get a private vehicle in Botswana this July-September at this point.

A 10-12 day November trip using a private vehicle would be in your price range. I suggest Chitabe or Chitabe Ledibe plus(+) Savuti or Duma Tau.

You might also look at Russel's photography from Hwange. You could go there in October to capture some amazing sunsets and the dust is a new element for your photographs.

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 10:40 AM
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John - I read on The Wild Source website that Russell is leading a photo safari to Bots in the Nov/Dec timeframe as well. If you can't go in July, you may want to check that out.
All the best with your planning.
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 10:50 AM
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Having visited all the places you mention numerous times, I don't think you could go wrong with any of them.

I see from your additional posts that you are now thinking private reserves. So that means SA and Botswana.

As to going with a photographer, I have not done such a photo safari, but I have spent lots of time with photo groups who shared an itinerary similar to mine or stayed at the same lodging as me. So here are the pros/cons from that perspective.

Pros:
Downtime midday or evenings is spent getting expert instruction on using your camera or photo software.

Everyone in the group is interested in talking F-stops and apertures and learning from each other.

Earlier departures for best light are more likely, as is staying out longer or waiting at sightings.

You get tips in the field while shooting and the expert leader will help you adjust your camera.

In Southern Africa, a private vehicle is much more expensive than East Africa. If you are going to share a vehicle anyway in Botswana and SA due to costs, why not share it with people you know will be like minded? The photo group trip will likely cost more than just going as a couple and joining other guests in the vehicle. But it will be less expensive than a private vehicle for just you two.

Cons:
You pay quite a bit more for the expert. After all, you are buying his/her trip.

Although photo itineraries tend to maximize photo ops (obviously), the trip is a set departure and may not be customized to exactly what you want.

Even though the group has similar goals, it is a group nonetheless. For the very serious photographer, as PacoAhedo states, a private vehicle is best. Nobody else is moving around to possibly blur a shot. You always have the best vantage point in the vehicle. Your subjects are your choice and not group consensus. No group trip can offer the flexibility of a private trip, which is more important to keen photographers than the average traveler.

If you take a look at photos others have taken (see index link) in a shared vehicle on a regular, non-photo safari, I think you'll be impressed. Factor in your advanced skills and perhaps superior equipment, and you can expect some frameable shots, no matter which route you choose.

http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...port-index.cfm
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 12:12 PM
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We were at Mashatu during one of these workshops. The group of eight (four per vehicle) seemed to be having a great experience.

http://www.mashatu.com/Package_photographic.html
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 12:21 PM
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Sorry - they were on the 8 night workshop - 4 nts Mala Mala and 4 nights Mashatu Tented.
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 12:24 PM
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John,

Dunno if Russell posts here. But certainly on safaritalk.net
Andy posts on both Fodors and ST. I think he's called safaridude on ST.

They're both great guys, but I'm not sure you need their services (yet). I mean; there's a difference between being a "keen photographer" and a (semi-)pro or a photography-nut (for lack of a better word). I fall in the first category too, as does 50% of anyone going on a safari I guess. But most of these people do not opt for a pro photographer to join them, at least not on their very first safari.

I had good results so far. At least I think so. Judge for yourself: www.pixelpower.be and go to "nature" and "travel" albums.

It just depends on how much effort you put into it. On every level;
- preparation; get to know your gear perfectly. Practice moving subjects, low light, etc.
- camera material. An "L" lens will yield better results than the bottom of a coke bottle. Invest in a monopod and beanbag.
- choice of place to stay. A private reserve that allows off road driving, that has traversing rights on other properties, etc... will be better than any national park.
- period you go. Get informed. If it really is the only time you go then perhaps it's better to avoid the green season (more difficult to spot game, possible showers, ...)
- budget. Over here we have a saying that you might translate as "the more money the better the cookies". No need to explain that I guess. Well, no need to go bankrupt though. You can save yourself quite a lot of money by not choosing for luxury, but by rather investing in a good guide or a private vehicle. Paying for an extra "guide" in the form of a professional photographer will certainly add to your bill as well. If you want to learn techniques (even when not on gamedrive, like while processing your pics in camp), then it could be worth the money. But if it's just to get to the right spot, then a regular (experienced) guide does at least an equally good job imho.

I guess this all sounds straight forward, but I know it's not that simple. From my experience; you need quite a bit of luck as well. Game doesn't come on demand.

Here's the best experiences I had so far;

1) a tented camp safari with Ewan Masson, visiting Okavango Delta (Moremi), Khwai, Savuti and Chobe. Seriously affordable. Great food. Excellent guide (hard to top I think). Private vehicle. No strict schedule. Personnel-to-guest ratio was 1:1 (camp was set up for us, all we had to do was go on gamedrive, sleep, wash and eat). Trip report here; http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/v...ic.php?t=37455

Highlights; incredible amount of animals including 54 individual (!) lions, a cheetah with a kill, numerous leopard (incl 3 together), wild dogs, elephant (one sighting of about 1000 ellies in an afternoon) and 200+ birds (without even trying).

2) a "regular" safari to private reserves west of Kruger NP. I did not opt for the "posh" venues like MalaMala or Londolozi, but did quite a bit of research and compiled a list of more affordable places to stay. I placed the list online (on this board too but I do not have the link), and people reference to it a lot. So I must have done *something* right. From that list I took four lodges in four different reserves, and added a beach lodge in Moz. Trip report (1st part)is here; http://www.aardvarktravel.net/chat/v...ic.php?t=47589

In comparison with the Masson trip this one was certainly more relaxed (shorter gamedrives, bit more time in camp) but added an experience that has become a bit of a drug I must admit: bush walks. Warning; do not opt for this if your main goal is photography, as you see far less animals while on foot. But I just like to track etc, so...
Comparison of the sightings / photo opportunities is not easy. We certainly saw less birds and less lions. But other than that... This trip perhaps had a bit less sightings but they were better. Like incredible cheetah-, leopard- and rhino sightings. But especially encountering 6 wild dogs ON FOOT is an experience that is hard to top. In total I came home with less pics (also because of the many foot safaris), but got more keepers.
Comparing other aspects (comfort, food, feel, guiding, vehicle, ...) is not easy either, as all four camps were quite different. I suggest you read my report to get an idea of what to expect.

Success with your planning!

J.
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 03:29 PM
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John, you ask me-
"Have you spent much time in Botswana?"
No I have not, only one time to a camp that I can not recommend. So, why not another camp there? Time and money, Bots private camps tend to cost considerably more than camps in SA.

and - "I noticed this safari on his site, led by photographer Russell Johnson. We can not get away in July for the safari that he leds.
http://www.andybiggs.com/content.php...11-11-Botswana
What do you think of it?"
Looks good, and at $1,000 per day (or more, $8,000 for how many days in camp? 6-7-8 or 9?), it should be good.

To repeat, for photography you need to be in the best position for subject distance, subject angle and light angle. This means you must be off road. Off road viewing is the key to photography. That and being where the wildlife is.

regards - tom
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Old Mar 11th, 2011, 03:47 PM
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That is a lot of information to digest, thank you.

Have emailed Russell to ask a couple of questions about the safari. I actually found out more it here

http://rjohnsonimages.com/blog/?p=136

I like the idea of being able to off-road and having the expertise of a professional on hand.

How much influence would your tour leader have in getting you in the right position? Judging by their photos, they are either very lucky or experienced making sure the guide put them in the right location?

Thank you for the pricing info, Craig. This is something I have questioned in the email.
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Old Mar 12th, 2011, 05:51 AM
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JohnBannister,

You'll probably dismiss these comments -- I know that I would have, when I was in shoes that bore some resemblance to yours -- but whatever:

A great, great many people have undertaken their first safari with the intention of seeing and photographing animals that they'd seen only on TV and at zoos, and further they fully believe that it will be their one and only chance to visit Africa.

And then something remarkable happens once they've arrived. It starts with the first impala or zebra that they see -- very often on the drive to their camp lodge. It grows and grows as a herd of elephants pass nearby and you see not only their size but their gracefulness. Or a big cat strolls by 10 feet from where you're sitting and suddenly you're producing a lot more adrenaline. All this while you're surrounded by a landscape and environment with nothing that man has created: no buildings, no telephone poles, no sounds of trucks ... nothing. By the time the trip is over -- no, usually by the time this 1st trip is 2 days old -- you realize that this experience is much, much more than you had ever imagined, and you start to figure out how you can return.

In other words, although you believe that "this may be our only trip to Africa," there is a very good chance that it wont be. Yes, it might cost 2x or 3x as much as the trips you'd planned to Italy or France or China, but you'll find a way. It's just that darned good.

So, my suggestion would be that you pass up a specialized trip for a 1st experience. Go on a trip where you can experience a variety of different conditions -- foe example, a few days in a private safari vehicle, the rest of the time sharing a vehicle -- and that way you can get a sense of whether a private is worth the extra expense (often $400-700 extra/day in Botswana or S. Africa). Also, consider going to camps with different guiding practices. In my experience, Kwando camps (which are primarily in Botswana) consistently have the bes guiding experiences -- not only the most highly skilled guides, but Kwando also provides trackers for their game drives. Or, you might find that you prefer the Wilderness formula, which emphasizes creature comforts in the camps more than they do guiding expertise.

I can assure you that there's a 99.9% chance that you would have a fantastic experience and that you would come back with several flash-drivefuls of great photos. There's also a very, very good chance that you & your wife would decide on the spot that you have to find a way to go back. And, with that 1st experience under your belt, you'll be in a far better position to know your priorities for the next one.

rizzuto
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Old Mar 12th, 2011, 08:27 AM
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Rizzuto,

We may have our differences sometimes but you worded it perfectly (re: "only trip to Africa"). Also; excellent tip to try different types of safari.

My suggestion would be to do this in & around Kruger. You can experience regular safaris, walking safaris, private reserve, public reserve, lodge made of stone, a simple tent, private trip, shared trip, etc... you name it.

B.regs,

J.
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