Trip report Tanzania Feb
May 15th, 2006, 03:37 AM
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Trip report Tanzania Feb
First of I would like to state that I am not a good writer. But it is a good story.
In October 2006 My mother and I went on the Kuoni Ultimate Tanzania safari. The Ground operators were Ranger Safaris. The itinerary was
One night Nairobi.
One Night Novotel Arusha.
Morning Arusha National park
Lunch at Mountain Village, afternoon to Tarangire
Two nights Tarangire Sopa.
Two nights Nogorongoro Sopa
Full day game drive in the crater.
Two nights Seronera wildlife lodge
Two nights Speke bay lodge (lake Victoria)
Two nights Serengeti Sopa.
Two night Manyara Serena
Morning Game drive lake Manyara.
Then 5 nights Hemingways in Kenya.
The safari was great the organisation was superb.
In late December we decided to book the same itinerary for February and the migration. We left it to the last minute because my Mother had poor health over the winter. Unfortunately it was all booked up and Kuoni could not come up with an alternative. I tried ATR specifying the places above but adding Ndutu and leaving out Kenya with a few days of rest before and after at Arusha. They came back with a seven-day safari and seven days in Zanzibar stating that seven days was enough for a Safari! Not exactly what I asked for.
I then contacted rangers direct in Arusha via e-mail. I got a phone call the next day from African Safaris direct an English company that deal with rangers. I again asked for roughly the same itinerary and after various e-mails they came up with…
Private Safari
Two nights rest Moivaro Lodge
Afternoon game drive Arusha NP.
Two nights Kikoti Trangire NP I wanted a night game drive.
Two nights Ngorongoro farm house. We wanted a crater view.
One night Serengeti Sopa. We wanted two nights
Three nights Lobo with one day rest.
Two nights M’balageti.
Two nights Manyara.
Four nights Kigongani lodge. We wanted mountain village before and after but all booked up.
Now I am no Serengeti expert but I could see that it was not going to be ideal for the migration. It stretches Ebens triangle a bit! It was also going to cost quite a bit more than we wanted to spend. But my Mother said yes lets do it. After all the Serengeti is the Serengeti and we should see the migration somewhere on our travels. Our agent said we were going to get a nearly new landcruiser, an experienced guide and I also asked for twin rooms as it was my Mother. I was aware that a guide can make or break a safari and I voiced my concerns to the agent. He again said that we would get an excellent guide.
I must admit to scanning the atta wildebeest migration updates with some trepidation. No rains in November, December, draught I was beginning to suspect that this was not going to be a good safari.
In October 2006 My mother and I went on the Kuoni Ultimate Tanzania safari. The Ground operators were Ranger Safaris. The itinerary was
One night Nairobi.
One Night Novotel Arusha.
Morning Arusha National park
Lunch at Mountain Village, afternoon to Tarangire
Two nights Tarangire Sopa.
Two nights Nogorongoro Sopa
Full day game drive in the crater.
Two nights Seronera wildlife lodge
Two nights Speke bay lodge (lake Victoria)
Two nights Serengeti Sopa.
Two night Manyara Serena
Morning Game drive lake Manyara.
Then 5 nights Hemingways in Kenya.
The safari was great the organisation was superb.
In late December we decided to book the same itinerary for February and the migration. We left it to the last minute because my Mother had poor health over the winter. Unfortunately it was all booked up and Kuoni could not come up with an alternative. I tried ATR specifying the places above but adding Ndutu and leaving out Kenya with a few days of rest before and after at Arusha. They came back with a seven-day safari and seven days in Zanzibar stating that seven days was enough for a Safari! Not exactly what I asked for.
I then contacted rangers direct in Arusha via e-mail. I got a phone call the next day from African Safaris direct an English company that deal with rangers. I again asked for roughly the same itinerary and after various e-mails they came up with…
Private Safari
Two nights rest Moivaro Lodge
Afternoon game drive Arusha NP.
Two nights Kikoti Trangire NP I wanted a night game drive.
Two nights Ngorongoro farm house. We wanted a crater view.
One night Serengeti Sopa. We wanted two nights
Three nights Lobo with one day rest.
Two nights M’balageti.
Two nights Manyara.
Four nights Kigongani lodge. We wanted mountain village before and after but all booked up.
Now I am no Serengeti expert but I could see that it was not going to be ideal for the migration. It stretches Ebens triangle a bit! It was also going to cost quite a bit more than we wanted to spend. But my Mother said yes lets do it. After all the Serengeti is the Serengeti and we should see the migration somewhere on our travels. Our agent said we were going to get a nearly new landcruiser, an experienced guide and I also asked for twin rooms as it was my Mother. I was aware that a guide can make or break a safari and I voiced my concerns to the agent. He again said that we would get an excellent guide.
I must admit to scanning the atta wildebeest migration updates with some trepidation. No rains in November, December, draught I was beginning to suspect that this was not going to be a good safari.
May 15th, 2006, 10:59 AM
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Finally the Safari
13/14 Feb
We flew overnight on a Kenya airways 777. When I confirmed the tickets a few days before I reserved the back two seats on the plane, nice. It was a good smooth flight and I believe we arrived a bit before schedule in Nairobi. English readers (if there are any readers) of this tome may be interested to hear that it takes seven home office staff to deport three people. I believe one deportee was going onwards to Kinshasa with an escort of three.
We waited for our precision air departure to Kilimanjaro. There was no boarding announcement I was sitting down having a smoke and my Mother was walking past one of the gates when she was asked if she was going to Kili, they were already boarding! You have to be on your toes in Nairobi because they don‘t always announce flights. A great forty minute flight to Kili, with a nice view of the mountain.
Getting a visa on arrival was no problem, I think we waited ten minutes. We exited customs to find a load of Safari drivers with boards up. Unfortunately there was nobody waiting for us! After fifteen minutes of panic someone finally appeared in an old minibus.
We arrived at Moivaro Lodge checked in and had to wait twenty minutes for the room to be prepared. We did not mind this as we were just looking forward to bed. The cottages are nicely laid out in beautiful gardens, very secluded and quiet. The room was a large size with two double beds walk in loo and shower. He had lunch spaghetti Bolognaise or Nile perch. Service was surly by some of the staff, like we were an inconvenience.
That afternoon a rep for Rangers turned up to go through our itinerary. We were informed that out guide would be Y. He was the second driver/guide on our first safari. We were in the first vehicle and had our own guide so we did not have much contact with him. I thought that he was fairly new and was being shown the ropes by our guide with fifteen years service. I was wrong. The Dinner was fantastic except the service. They had three or four men doing the drinks and one young woman taking the food orders, serving and clearing away for around forty diners.
15 Feb
Arusha national park.
Our guide Y arrived at eight to take us to Arusha NP. We wanted to go back as it was the only place that we saw Colobus and Blue Monkeys. Our nearly new vehicle turned out to be four years old, obviously worse for wear with discarded bottles still in the seat pockets. The rear windows wouldn’t open, but it was a seven-seater landcruiser for the two of us.
It was a remarkably clear day with beautiful views of Mount Meru. I had forgotten how scenically beautiful the park is. We had difficulty finding any monkeys this time till I spotted some blue monkeys walking through the undergrowth. We saw some stationary safari vans and they were observing Black and White Colobus. Tearing along through the park I spotted about four bushbuck, our driver two. I spotted a blue monkey sitting on a fallen tree acting strangely. We then spotted another troop nearby, obviously a territorial dispute. There was not much going on at the lakes, a few wading buffalos. Last time there were thousands of Flamingos, this time a few hundred. Those were the highlights
Before we left for the park our guide told me that the manager wanted to see me. The manager told me I had not settled the bill. I said we were leaving tomorrow. The manager said oh. Lunch was spaghetti Bolognaise or Nile Perch. Since neither of us ate fish our options were limited. No hot water that evening or the following morning. Dinner was good and the service slightly better.
Next Tarangire
13/14 Feb
We flew overnight on a Kenya airways 777. When I confirmed the tickets a few days before I reserved the back two seats on the plane, nice. It was a good smooth flight and I believe we arrived a bit before schedule in Nairobi. English readers (if there are any readers) of this tome may be interested to hear that it takes seven home office staff to deport three people. I believe one deportee was going onwards to Kinshasa with an escort of three.
We waited for our precision air departure to Kilimanjaro. There was no boarding announcement I was sitting down having a smoke and my Mother was walking past one of the gates when she was asked if she was going to Kili, they were already boarding! You have to be on your toes in Nairobi because they don‘t always announce flights. A great forty minute flight to Kili, with a nice view of the mountain.
Getting a visa on arrival was no problem, I think we waited ten minutes. We exited customs to find a load of Safari drivers with boards up. Unfortunately there was nobody waiting for us! After fifteen minutes of panic someone finally appeared in an old minibus.
We arrived at Moivaro Lodge checked in and had to wait twenty minutes for the room to be prepared. We did not mind this as we were just looking forward to bed. The cottages are nicely laid out in beautiful gardens, very secluded and quiet. The room was a large size with two double beds walk in loo and shower. He had lunch spaghetti Bolognaise or Nile perch. Service was surly by some of the staff, like we were an inconvenience.
That afternoon a rep for Rangers turned up to go through our itinerary. We were informed that out guide would be Y. He was the second driver/guide on our first safari. We were in the first vehicle and had our own guide so we did not have much contact with him. I thought that he was fairly new and was being shown the ropes by our guide with fifteen years service. I was wrong. The Dinner was fantastic except the service. They had three or four men doing the drinks and one young woman taking the food orders, serving and clearing away for around forty diners.
15 Feb
Arusha national park.
Our guide Y arrived at eight to take us to Arusha NP. We wanted to go back as it was the only place that we saw Colobus and Blue Monkeys. Our nearly new vehicle turned out to be four years old, obviously worse for wear with discarded bottles still in the seat pockets. The rear windows wouldn’t open, but it was a seven-seater landcruiser for the two of us.
It was a remarkably clear day with beautiful views of Mount Meru. I had forgotten how scenically beautiful the park is. We had difficulty finding any monkeys this time till I spotted some blue monkeys walking through the undergrowth. We saw some stationary safari vans and they were observing Black and White Colobus. Tearing along through the park I spotted about four bushbuck, our driver two. I spotted a blue monkey sitting on a fallen tree acting strangely. We then spotted another troop nearby, obviously a territorial dispute. There was not much going on at the lakes, a few wading buffalos. Last time there were thousands of Flamingos, this time a few hundred. Those were the highlights
Before we left for the park our guide told me that the manager wanted to see me. The manager told me I had not settled the bill. I said we were leaving tomorrow. The manager said oh. Lunch was spaghetti Bolognaise or Nile Perch. Since neither of us ate fish our options were limited. No hot water that evening or the following morning. Dinner was good and the service slightly better.
Next Tarangire
May 16th, 2006, 04:44 AM
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16 Feb
Kikoti
Tarangire national park
On our last visit to Tarangire, October 2004 we had entered the park early evening and saw masses of animals we just didn’t know were to look. Highlights then were…
A pride of between thirty and thirty-five lions,
A python climbing a tree.
A herd of more than four hundred and fifty elephants.
A two thousand strong herd of buffalos.
So Tarangire had a lot to live up to, but back to this February.
We settled our bill at Moivaro, the manager got his sums wrong in our favour, so we told him the correct amount. Nice drive and good road for most of the way to the park. On the final approach to the park take care. Children put leopard tortoises in the road to force drivers to stop and get money. The north of the park was bone dry and the river was totally dry in places. We drove through the park and exited to the east, as we did so the road deteriorated. It seems generally that the worst roads are the ones to the lodges.
We arrived at Kikoti I said we wanted twins Mother and son etc. The manager came out and said we were down as a double but as they were not busy we could have a tent each. No individual tipping you tip at the end, nice touch. Great view, nice tents, good view, but back to the game. We went for a late afternoon game drive. It was brilliant. I spotted a steenbok (not seen first time round) it was just sitting down in the grass to hide. After a while it relaxed and we got good video of it feeding with a few furtive looks in our direction. I then spotted a serval cat stalking through the long grass. We then went back to the place we saw the climbing python. Sure enough our guide spotted a python loosely coiled in the tree nearby. I also spotted some slender mongoose by the time we reversed back they had all disappeared. We also saw two largish herds of buffalo, each about one fifty to two hundred strong. Maybe the superherd splits up in the wet season.
That evening there was a night game drive in an open vehicle. Only us with three others spotting. We spotted klipspringer, common duicker both not seen first time round. Dik dik, steenbok, scrub hare and waterbuck.
Dinner was very good there were only two others staying at the camp.
17 Feb
Kikoti
Tarangire NP
After reading a few horror stories about the lack of game near Kikoti I decided on a picnic lunch and an all day game drive. The morning was a disappointment no cats but loads of dik diks and our first reedbuck. The afternoon made up for it, still no cats but lots of ellies. After a good picnic lunch at cliffs above the river we stopped at the gorge near the park entrance. There were elephants digging for water and it was nice just to sit and watch.
Our guide was desperate to show us cats so we were tearing up and down the park. It’s difficult to spot animals at speed and our guide had difficulty spotting them at the best of time. He knew his stuff identification wise but I think being the second driver he drove and the car in front spotted. Unfortunately this time there was no car in front.
Anyway we came across a small herd of elephants with one baby about six months, one about three months and one a few weeks. And they all crossed the road a few feet in front of us! The mums were totally unconcerned one even had a bum scratch on a tree. One juvenile crossing the road saw baby sprawled out on the floor and thought we had done something. Head was up ears out directed at us till baby got back up. We got great video of all of this with scratching noises! Priceless. Also saw a ground hornbill in a tree.
We got back to Kikoti at about six o’clock. It was a long day. We requested hot water for a shower and had another excellent meal. I noticed my finger had started to swell from a bite and was starting to suppurate. I rubbed some tobacco on the wound and that seemed to do the trick.
Next Ngorongoro farm house and crater
Kikoti
Tarangire national park
On our last visit to Tarangire, October 2004 we had entered the park early evening and saw masses of animals we just didn’t know were to look. Highlights then were…
A pride of between thirty and thirty-five lions,
A python climbing a tree.
A herd of more than four hundred and fifty elephants.
A two thousand strong herd of buffalos.
So Tarangire had a lot to live up to, but back to this February.
We settled our bill at Moivaro, the manager got his sums wrong in our favour, so we told him the correct amount. Nice drive and good road for most of the way to the park. On the final approach to the park take care. Children put leopard tortoises in the road to force drivers to stop and get money. The north of the park was bone dry and the river was totally dry in places. We drove through the park and exited to the east, as we did so the road deteriorated. It seems generally that the worst roads are the ones to the lodges.
We arrived at Kikoti I said we wanted twins Mother and son etc. The manager came out and said we were down as a double but as they were not busy we could have a tent each. No individual tipping you tip at the end, nice touch. Great view, nice tents, good view, but back to the game. We went for a late afternoon game drive. It was brilliant. I spotted a steenbok (not seen first time round) it was just sitting down in the grass to hide. After a while it relaxed and we got good video of it feeding with a few furtive looks in our direction. I then spotted a serval cat stalking through the long grass. We then went back to the place we saw the climbing python. Sure enough our guide spotted a python loosely coiled in the tree nearby. I also spotted some slender mongoose by the time we reversed back they had all disappeared. We also saw two largish herds of buffalo, each about one fifty to two hundred strong. Maybe the superherd splits up in the wet season.
That evening there was a night game drive in an open vehicle. Only us with three others spotting. We spotted klipspringer, common duicker both not seen first time round. Dik dik, steenbok, scrub hare and waterbuck.
Dinner was very good there were only two others staying at the camp.
17 Feb
Kikoti
Tarangire NP
After reading a few horror stories about the lack of game near Kikoti I decided on a picnic lunch and an all day game drive. The morning was a disappointment no cats but loads of dik diks and our first reedbuck. The afternoon made up for it, still no cats but lots of ellies. After a good picnic lunch at cliffs above the river we stopped at the gorge near the park entrance. There were elephants digging for water and it was nice just to sit and watch.
Our guide was desperate to show us cats so we were tearing up and down the park. It’s difficult to spot animals at speed and our guide had difficulty spotting them at the best of time. He knew his stuff identification wise but I think being the second driver he drove and the car in front spotted. Unfortunately this time there was no car in front.
Anyway we came across a small herd of elephants with one baby about six months, one about three months and one a few weeks. And they all crossed the road a few feet in front of us! The mums were totally unconcerned one even had a bum scratch on a tree. One juvenile crossing the road saw baby sprawled out on the floor and thought we had done something. Head was up ears out directed at us till baby got back up. We got great video of all of this with scratching noises! Priceless. Also saw a ground hornbill in a tree.
We got back to Kikoti at about six o’clock. It was a long day. We requested hot water for a shower and had another excellent meal. I noticed my finger had started to swell from a bite and was starting to suppurate. I rubbed some tobacco on the wound and that seemed to do the trick.
Next Ngorongoro farm house and crater
May 16th, 2006, 05:42 AM
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Hi net warrior,
I'm enjoying your report and reliving my trip. We stayed at Kikoti Feb. 13-14 and enjoyed it. We had an amazing guide and managed to see just about everything minus the python and the serval (lucky sighting).
Did you see the mini migration of wilderbeeste, zebra and buffalo - it was very impressive. Don't know if your into birds but we saw so many beauties. If inter. go to the E. Africa trip index for my report - thanks for sharing yours;
Sherry
I'm enjoying your report and reliving my trip. We stayed at Kikoti Feb. 13-14 and enjoyed it. We had an amazing guide and managed to see just about everything minus the python and the serval (lucky sighting).
Did you see the mini migration of wilderbeeste, zebra and buffalo - it was very impressive. Don't know if your into birds but we saw so many beauties. If inter. go to the E. Africa trip index for my report - thanks for sharing yours;
Sherry
May 16th, 2006, 07:16 AM
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Hi Cybor
Glad your enjoying. Oh yes I knew a few fodorites were preceeding me. I didn't see one wildebeest in Tarangire on this trip. Saw all the usual suspects except in much reduced numbers compared to October 04 and no lions. About 30 odd dik diks were spotted though.
Main Birds seen, I'm not a twitcher.
bataleur, red hornbill, ashy starling, pale chanting goshawk, Long crested eagle, spurfowl, montagus harrier, secretary bird, corie bustard and white bellied bustard. Loads of Lilac breasted rollers.
So no migration, reduced and dispersed animals. But the park was still beautifull and lots of close up and I mean close, elephant behaviour.
Glad your enjoying. Oh yes I knew a few fodorites were preceeding me. I didn't see one wildebeest in Tarangire on this trip. Saw all the usual suspects except in much reduced numbers compared to October 04 and no lions. About 30 odd dik diks were spotted though.
Main Birds seen, I'm not a twitcher.
bataleur, red hornbill, ashy starling, pale chanting goshawk, Long crested eagle, spurfowl, montagus harrier, secretary bird, corie bustard and white bellied bustard. Loads of Lilac breasted rollers.
So no migration, reduced and dispersed animals. But the park was still beautifull and lots of close up and I mean close, elephant behaviour.
May 16th, 2006, 07:45 AM
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18 Feb
Kikoti
To Ngorongoro farm House
I woke up at about three in the morning feeling very hot so I sat outside on the porch to cool down. The mosquitoes needed feeding. Everything was bathed in a spooky white glow from the moon. After my early morning coffee I walked over to Mum’s tent to see how she was doing. Turned out that she had been sick most of the night. Ah the African experience. Luckily today was only travelling although we left a bit late for obvious reasons.
We said our goodbyes to Kikoti and armed with some toast for my Mother off we trundled. It was a good road all the way. We passed lake Manyara or what was left of it. The last bit of road to the farm house was a bit au natural. Checking in at Ngorongoro farm house the guide told reception of my Mothers condition and we were given a room very near to the dinning room. The rooms are great, nice size, well furnished, excellent beds and a great view. But not crater views.
Mother did not join me for lunch but our guide did. After a little relaxation we went on a drive to the view of lake Eyasi. Unfortunately our guide did not realise that we had to leave the conservation area at six so it was a very rushed trip. Nice view of lake Eyasi though and saw some zebras and a couple of buffaloes.
That evening I dined with my guide. The head waitress inquired about my Mother and suggested some soup and bread. So room service for Mother. Meanwhile our guide took every opportunity to tell me how little he was paid, how he had four daughters one of which wanted further education that he would have to pay for. The best one is that he was pulled of a six man group tour because we had requested him. He also mentioned malaria that he had recently had it, but had taken some medicine, no problem. These two sentences will rear their ugly heads later. At the time I was more worried about Mothers health since tomorrow was a long day in the crater.
19 Feb
Ngorongo Crater.
After a very good breakfast on my own we all set of for the crater at seven. I must admit on the last safari Ngorongoro was a disappointment. Before I am lynched I mean animal wise not scenic wise. We saw the top of the mane of a Lion on a Kopje two hundred meters away. One rhino that you could just about make out what it was and another doing a good impersonation of a rock. The highlights that trip were warthogs wallowing and being up close and personal with the animals. So things could only get better?
We drove round the crater rim enjoying the views it was very clear but cloudy. Last time we drove down the sopa road this time the main access road. Just at the crater gate we got a puncture, which took half an hour to fix. The crater was brilliant and not just the views. We saw Mother and baby Rhino not near but you could easily see they were rhinos. Came across a cheetah that crossed the road in front of us. Got up close and personal with wildebeests and calves. Yes we would see more in the Serengeti but not this close. Good video of an Eland flat out, ruminating. Then my highlight a lion at a buffalo kill with golden jackals lurking. On the last safari we had seen plenty of lions but none at a kill. After a few minutes the male lion walked off and the vultures moved in together with a couple of tawny eagles swooping down for a share.
We then changed position and observed the largish pride settling or settled down for their lunch-time siesta. Now another blasphemy, but watching sleeping lions can be like watching paint dry. But then I saw rain clouds coming and crossed my fingers.
Sure enough it started to drizzle and with it movement. From nothing we had cubs playing, sharpening claws, and climbing. The adults tried to find shelter by our vans. The oldest male teen came out for a nibble and started calling on his way back and a couple of sneezes for good measure.
There was another pride of lions at a buffalo kill on the other side of a very shrunken Lake Magadi. The pride was about seven strong. The view was not that good, probably just as well because they were totally covered in blood. They don’t show that on nature documentaries. Throw in about ten bull elephants, some quite close.
A perfect day and sixteen lions! On the way out we stopped at the picnic place and nearly suffered a robbery by two vervets! We left about four in the afternoon so we missed lunch.
Other animals
Zebras
Hartebeest
Grants
Tommies
Impala
Zebra
Buffalo
Hyena
Baboons
Vervets
Kori Bustard
Crowned Cranes
Abdims and white storks
Spur winged goose
Black bellied bustard
Pelican
I gave the guide ten thousand to get me some cokes and himself something to eat. I felt guilty about him missing his lunch. That evening there was an outdoor barbecue at the farm. The funny thing is that the dinners were all outside and it rained before, after but not during. It was the best meat that I tasted on the trip. I also got another sob story from my guide. I was very impressed with the farmhouse. What they sometimes lacked in experience they more than made up with enthusiasm, highly recommended. Staying there may entail a bit of hiking. The last few nights we had seen lightning to the west. Had it been raining in the Serengeti?
Next the endless migration
Kikoti
To Ngorongoro farm House
I woke up at about three in the morning feeling very hot so I sat outside on the porch to cool down. The mosquitoes needed feeding. Everything was bathed in a spooky white glow from the moon. After my early morning coffee I walked over to Mum’s tent to see how she was doing. Turned out that she had been sick most of the night. Ah the African experience. Luckily today was only travelling although we left a bit late for obvious reasons.
We said our goodbyes to Kikoti and armed with some toast for my Mother off we trundled. It was a good road all the way. We passed lake Manyara or what was left of it. The last bit of road to the farm house was a bit au natural. Checking in at Ngorongoro farm house the guide told reception of my Mothers condition and we were given a room very near to the dinning room. The rooms are great, nice size, well furnished, excellent beds and a great view. But not crater views.
Mother did not join me for lunch but our guide did. After a little relaxation we went on a drive to the view of lake Eyasi. Unfortunately our guide did not realise that we had to leave the conservation area at six so it was a very rushed trip. Nice view of lake Eyasi though and saw some zebras and a couple of buffaloes.
That evening I dined with my guide. The head waitress inquired about my Mother and suggested some soup and bread. So room service for Mother. Meanwhile our guide took every opportunity to tell me how little he was paid, how he had four daughters one of which wanted further education that he would have to pay for. The best one is that he was pulled of a six man group tour because we had requested him. He also mentioned malaria that he had recently had it, but had taken some medicine, no problem. These two sentences will rear their ugly heads later. At the time I was more worried about Mothers health since tomorrow was a long day in the crater.
19 Feb
Ngorongo Crater.
After a very good breakfast on my own we all set of for the crater at seven. I must admit on the last safari Ngorongoro was a disappointment. Before I am lynched I mean animal wise not scenic wise. We saw the top of the mane of a Lion on a Kopje two hundred meters away. One rhino that you could just about make out what it was and another doing a good impersonation of a rock. The highlights that trip were warthogs wallowing and being up close and personal with the animals. So things could only get better?
We drove round the crater rim enjoying the views it was very clear but cloudy. Last time we drove down the sopa road this time the main access road. Just at the crater gate we got a puncture, which took half an hour to fix. The crater was brilliant and not just the views. We saw Mother and baby Rhino not near but you could easily see they were rhinos. Came across a cheetah that crossed the road in front of us. Got up close and personal with wildebeests and calves. Yes we would see more in the Serengeti but not this close. Good video of an Eland flat out, ruminating. Then my highlight a lion at a buffalo kill with golden jackals lurking. On the last safari we had seen plenty of lions but none at a kill. After a few minutes the male lion walked off and the vultures moved in together with a couple of tawny eagles swooping down for a share.
We then changed position and observed the largish pride settling or settled down for their lunch-time siesta. Now another blasphemy, but watching sleeping lions can be like watching paint dry. But then I saw rain clouds coming and crossed my fingers.
Sure enough it started to drizzle and with it movement. From nothing we had cubs playing, sharpening claws, and climbing. The adults tried to find shelter by our vans. The oldest male teen came out for a nibble and started calling on his way back and a couple of sneezes for good measure.
There was another pride of lions at a buffalo kill on the other side of a very shrunken Lake Magadi. The pride was about seven strong. The view was not that good, probably just as well because they were totally covered in blood. They don’t show that on nature documentaries. Throw in about ten bull elephants, some quite close.
A perfect day and sixteen lions! On the way out we stopped at the picnic place and nearly suffered a robbery by two vervets! We left about four in the afternoon so we missed lunch.
Other animals
Zebras
Hartebeest
Grants
Tommies
Impala
Zebra
Buffalo
Hyena
Baboons
Vervets
Kori Bustard
Crowned Cranes
Abdims and white storks
Spur winged goose
Black bellied bustard
Pelican
I gave the guide ten thousand to get me some cokes and himself something to eat. I felt guilty about him missing his lunch. That evening there was an outdoor barbecue at the farm. The funny thing is that the dinners were all outside and it rained before, after but not during. It was the best meat that I tasted on the trip. I also got another sob story from my guide. I was very impressed with the farmhouse. What they sometimes lacked in experience they more than made up with enthusiasm, highly recommended. Staying there may entail a bit of hiking. The last few nights we had seen lightning to the west. Had it been raining in the Serengeti?
Next the endless migration
May 17th, 2006, 07:02 AM
#13
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The Saga continues...
20 Feb
Ngorongoro to Serengeti Sopa via Ndutu.
At seven we departed for the Serengeti. Crossing the crater highlands we had amazing views of the Serengeti and beyond it was exceptionally clear. The whole area was a lot greener than last time, there had obviously just been rain. There were quite a few zebras grazing together with a few tommies. We did a left towards Ndutu instead of heading for Nabi. The whole stretch to Ndutu was very green/flat with loads of dispersed tommies and a few zebras. Our guide spotted two golden jackals feasting on half a tommy each.
The area around Ndutu was still dry although the forest was green there we spotted a large pride of lions, dispersed under various trees. I think the pride was about seventeen strong. We also spotted another steenbok and savannah hare. The one thing missing was wildebeest. Our guide had been told that the migrations were arriving. He also explained how inexperienced drivers get lost around here. He then got himself lost! We tried to find a cheetah that he had been told about but no luck. We then came across a mobile camp and after getting directions we were again on our way. Lunch was eaten at the Ndutu lodge car park.
After lunch we headed to Nabi gate completing the triangle. On our last safari this section was a lot drier but we had spotted two servals, not this time. At Nabi gate there was an interesting map showing the Serengeti together with areas that off-road driving is allowed. A few miles north of Nabi, we spotted a couple of safari vehicles by a small hillock. Turning of we were rewarded with some very fat lions. One a teen male was trying to drink from a puddle while trying to support his vast bulk! Another young female was panting away and three more were trying to get some shut-eye.
From then on we started seeing herds and herds of wildebeest all heading in a southwesterly direction. Our guide told us by the time we came back this way they would all be gone. So we drove between Simba and Goll kopjes through thousands of wildebeest and arrived at the top of a gently sloping hill to see a panoramic view of the mass herds. Some groups had calves others did not. I did not think there was enough standing water in Ndutu to support a million odd wildebeest. So I was sceptical about the guides interpretation, but hey I’m no zoologist call it a feeling.
Next we followed this little river, unfortunately I don’t remember the name, packed with at least a hundred reedbuck. Last trip no reedbuck this trip a hundred. We followed the river, stunningly beautiful till we spotted three safari vans, more lions. This was another large fat pride with cubs playing and drinking.
On the drive to Sopa I spotted bat eared foxes, yelled at the driver to stop. Four bat eared foxes, our first ever, skittishly observing us from the long grass. Those long ears are clearly visible on the video. Further along driver and I spot something crossing the road. In my mind I’m wondering what it was, the guide said something, he said it again, still doesn’t register. Then he says it again, honey badger! I can still see it now snuffling through the vegetation at quite a rate of knots.
We arrived as darkness fell at Serengeti Sopa. At reception we requested for a room near the dinning hall, less far for my Mother to walk. Stretched out briefly in the spacious suite before dinner. Good food and an early night. What a great start in the Serengeti thirty-seven lions and a honey badger!
Other animals
Green headed agama
Topi
Grants
Dik dik
Giraffe
21 Feb
Sopa via Moru, Seronera to Lobo
We had an early breakfast and then checked out unfortunately we were only spending the night here. Last time we were on safari we skirted quite a few kopjes and didn’t see anything. So this time we tried again at Moru kopjes. We drove towards them and found to our surprise quite a lot of game in the area. No sight of any Rhino but as our guide was speeding along I shouted stop and then scanned a kopje… lions! Spotted at three hundred paces. I was getting good at this. Finally a classic Lion king view of five lions. There were four more young lions dispersed around the hillock. For all we knew there might be another twenty on the other side, but our guide said he couldn’t drive round the other side. We could drive off road but not round the kopje, strange.
Unbeknown to us our driver had heard on the radio of a lion kill so we rushed our lion sighting and zoomed off to the kill. There were two lions feeding on a recently deceased buffalo carcass. This was another great scene, two male lions, and two black backed jackals hanging around waiting their chance. The best bit was that one of the male lions was mane less! One of the males sated walked to a nearby kopje were we noticed more lions posing. Including an even better lion king shot. Lion, on boulder, on kopje amazing.
We saw a few hyenas lazing about including one that was cooling his belly off? Then we drove off towards Seronera. Nearing Seronera we noticed parked safari vans in the long grass then, three cheetahs, no four as one pops his head up. Looking at the cheetahs I asked our guide what was going on. Tearing himself away from his bookkeeping he proclaims that it is a family group. Now I know Daddy and Mummy Cheetah with two kids only exists in Disney! So try again, a bachelor group? My personal interpretation was two bachelors trying to have their evil way with a female and teen was keeping his head down. The only thing certain our guide was loosing it.
Stopped of for lunch at the Seronera visitors centre and ate our warm chicken. The picnic sat on the front seat uncovered since breakfast. We then set of and did a half lap of the Seronera circuit. Stopping when we saw clusters of safari vans we spotted a few lions under a tree. A couple of cheetahs under a tree. Then a leopard up one tree and a young cub up the other. It wasn’t the best view of a leopard we have had but as it turned out the only one on this safari. The highlight was the leopard calling to the cub and then climbing down the tree before disappearing in a gulley, caught on video. The cub half fell down the tree but we were videoing in the wrong position. I must say I was disappointed in Seronera it was very dry and there was a lot of vehicular traffic. On the last safari it was very green in comparison to the rest of the Serengeti and we near enough had the place to ourselves.
We were shown Mbuze Mawe on our way north but apart from another Steenbok did not see much game. At about thirty miles from Lobo we went off road trying to spot “cheetahs as big as lions” we did not spot anything, not even lions the size of cheetahs! Nearing Lobo we started to spot a mixture of game including wildebeest. On our previous safari in October 04 we drove from Seronera to Lobo in the hope of seeing the migration. This we achieved together with the sighting of a large mixed pride of lions and a leopard and cub on the ground very close up. So although we only spent a few hours there we had very fond memories. Going there in February never in my wildest dreams did I expect to see masses of wildebeest. About one hundred and fifty metres from the lodge we spotted two very habituated klipspringers.
At Lobo we were shown our room very near reception. The staff apologised that my Mother would have to climb two flights of stairs. The room was small but clean with an amazing view. The service was excellent. I went straight up to the kopje bar to enjoy the view. On the green plains below me were wildebeest, giraffes, impala, zebra, buffaloes, tommies, eland and topis to name a few. It was magnificent. On the kopje itself and around the lodge were hyraxes, agama lizards, vervets and Baboons. At dinner we were seated at a table near to the buffet so my Mother would not have to walk far. The food could have done with more cooking but the deserts made up for it.
20 Feb
Ngorongoro to Serengeti Sopa via Ndutu.
At seven we departed for the Serengeti. Crossing the crater highlands we had amazing views of the Serengeti and beyond it was exceptionally clear. The whole area was a lot greener than last time, there had obviously just been rain. There were quite a few zebras grazing together with a few tommies. We did a left towards Ndutu instead of heading for Nabi. The whole stretch to Ndutu was very green/flat with loads of dispersed tommies and a few zebras. Our guide spotted two golden jackals feasting on half a tommy each.
The area around Ndutu was still dry although the forest was green there we spotted a large pride of lions, dispersed under various trees. I think the pride was about seventeen strong. We also spotted another steenbok and savannah hare. The one thing missing was wildebeest. Our guide had been told that the migrations were arriving. He also explained how inexperienced drivers get lost around here. He then got himself lost! We tried to find a cheetah that he had been told about but no luck. We then came across a mobile camp and after getting directions we were again on our way. Lunch was eaten at the Ndutu lodge car park.
After lunch we headed to Nabi gate completing the triangle. On our last safari this section was a lot drier but we had spotted two servals, not this time. At Nabi gate there was an interesting map showing the Serengeti together with areas that off-road driving is allowed. A few miles north of Nabi, we spotted a couple of safari vehicles by a small hillock. Turning of we were rewarded with some very fat lions. One a teen male was trying to drink from a puddle while trying to support his vast bulk! Another young female was panting away and three more were trying to get some shut-eye.
From then on we started seeing herds and herds of wildebeest all heading in a southwesterly direction. Our guide told us by the time we came back this way they would all be gone. So we drove between Simba and Goll kopjes through thousands of wildebeest and arrived at the top of a gently sloping hill to see a panoramic view of the mass herds. Some groups had calves others did not. I did not think there was enough standing water in Ndutu to support a million odd wildebeest. So I was sceptical about the guides interpretation, but hey I’m no zoologist call it a feeling.
Next we followed this little river, unfortunately I don’t remember the name, packed with at least a hundred reedbuck. Last trip no reedbuck this trip a hundred. We followed the river, stunningly beautiful till we spotted three safari vans, more lions. This was another large fat pride with cubs playing and drinking.
On the drive to Sopa I spotted bat eared foxes, yelled at the driver to stop. Four bat eared foxes, our first ever, skittishly observing us from the long grass. Those long ears are clearly visible on the video. Further along driver and I spot something crossing the road. In my mind I’m wondering what it was, the guide said something, he said it again, still doesn’t register. Then he says it again, honey badger! I can still see it now snuffling through the vegetation at quite a rate of knots.
We arrived as darkness fell at Serengeti Sopa. At reception we requested for a room near the dinning hall, less far for my Mother to walk. Stretched out briefly in the spacious suite before dinner. Good food and an early night. What a great start in the Serengeti thirty-seven lions and a honey badger!
Other animals
Green headed agama
Topi
Grants
Dik dik
Giraffe
21 Feb
Sopa via Moru, Seronera to Lobo
We had an early breakfast and then checked out unfortunately we were only spending the night here. Last time we were on safari we skirted quite a few kopjes and didn’t see anything. So this time we tried again at Moru kopjes. We drove towards them and found to our surprise quite a lot of game in the area. No sight of any Rhino but as our guide was speeding along I shouted stop and then scanned a kopje… lions! Spotted at three hundred paces. I was getting good at this. Finally a classic Lion king view of five lions. There were four more young lions dispersed around the hillock. For all we knew there might be another twenty on the other side, but our guide said he couldn’t drive round the other side. We could drive off road but not round the kopje, strange.
Unbeknown to us our driver had heard on the radio of a lion kill so we rushed our lion sighting and zoomed off to the kill. There were two lions feeding on a recently deceased buffalo carcass. This was another great scene, two male lions, and two black backed jackals hanging around waiting their chance. The best bit was that one of the male lions was mane less! One of the males sated walked to a nearby kopje were we noticed more lions posing. Including an even better lion king shot. Lion, on boulder, on kopje amazing.
We saw a few hyenas lazing about including one that was cooling his belly off? Then we drove off towards Seronera. Nearing Seronera we noticed parked safari vans in the long grass then, three cheetahs, no four as one pops his head up. Looking at the cheetahs I asked our guide what was going on. Tearing himself away from his bookkeeping he proclaims that it is a family group. Now I know Daddy and Mummy Cheetah with two kids only exists in Disney! So try again, a bachelor group? My personal interpretation was two bachelors trying to have their evil way with a female and teen was keeping his head down. The only thing certain our guide was loosing it.
Stopped of for lunch at the Seronera visitors centre and ate our warm chicken. The picnic sat on the front seat uncovered since breakfast. We then set of and did a half lap of the Seronera circuit. Stopping when we saw clusters of safari vans we spotted a few lions under a tree. A couple of cheetahs under a tree. Then a leopard up one tree and a young cub up the other. It wasn’t the best view of a leopard we have had but as it turned out the only one on this safari. The highlight was the leopard calling to the cub and then climbing down the tree before disappearing in a gulley, caught on video. The cub half fell down the tree but we were videoing in the wrong position. I must say I was disappointed in Seronera it was very dry and there was a lot of vehicular traffic. On the last safari it was very green in comparison to the rest of the Serengeti and we near enough had the place to ourselves.
We were shown Mbuze Mawe on our way north but apart from another Steenbok did not see much game. At about thirty miles from Lobo we went off road trying to spot “cheetahs as big as lions” we did not spot anything, not even lions the size of cheetahs! Nearing Lobo we started to spot a mixture of game including wildebeest. On our previous safari in October 04 we drove from Seronera to Lobo in the hope of seeing the migration. This we achieved together with the sighting of a large mixed pride of lions and a leopard and cub on the ground very close up. So although we only spent a few hours there we had very fond memories. Going there in February never in my wildest dreams did I expect to see masses of wildebeest. About one hundred and fifty metres from the lodge we spotted two very habituated klipspringers.
At Lobo we were shown our room very near reception. The staff apologised that my Mother would have to climb two flights of stairs. The room was small but clean with an amazing view. The service was excellent. I went straight up to the kopje bar to enjoy the view. On the green plains below me were wildebeest, giraffes, impala, zebra, buffaloes, tommies, eland and topis to name a few. It was magnificent. On the kopje itself and around the lodge were hyraxes, agama lizards, vervets and Baboons. At dinner we were seated at a table near to the buffet so my Mother would not have to walk far. The food could have done with more cooking but the deserts made up for it.
May 17th, 2006, 10:51 AM
#15
I'm enjoying your report too, net warrior. "recently deceased buffalo" - I love it! I'm sorry about your guide - that's such a shame when the trip is so important to you and just another day to them. I look forward to hearing more about your trip.
May 17th, 2006, 02:17 PM
#18
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Hi schlegal1
Thank you.
The honey badger was in silhouette crossing the road, it was a slight hill.
but got it on video moving off through the undergrowth. It was quick but you can just about make out the white stripe along it's flank.
Thank you.
The honey badger was in silhouette crossing the road, it was a slight hill.
but got it on video moving off through the undergrowth. It was quick but you can just about make out the white stripe along it's flank.
May 18th, 2006, 01:33 AM
#19
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22 Feb
Lobo
Today was going to be our day off to just chill out. But our guide suggested we have an early morning game drive, we didn’t argue. After a good breakfast we were on the road again! The surrounding area was teeming with game, herds of the usual suspects grazing on the lush green grass. We drove to a small river, which I believe is a tributary of the Grumeti. This seemed to be the favourite watering hole for the local animals, very picturesque. Here we got to video a young wildebeest suckling.
We drove along the river a few miles, when I spotted something on the opposite bank. Two lions! A male and female looking for lurvvee. Well the female was, the male was too knackered. No amount of tail wagging in the males face could tempt him. Our guide wanted us to wait and witness this disgusting deed, but we were to far away for a good porn video. (Actually we observed and filmed lions mating in Tarangire on our previous safari.) A few hundred meters further on I spotted a male lion disappearing into some bushes. The main pride was located. This was another big pride of thirteen lions and they were quite active, it was an overcast day. The other highlight was a reedbuck next to a kopje. I asked the guide if it was a mountain reedbuck, he said it was a bohors but what was it doing far from water next to a kopje?
After lunch I relaxed on the kopje enjoying the view while my Mother wrote postcards. Lobo was the most expensive lodge for soft drinks 1500 shillings for a coke and a whopping 3000 for diet coke. For some reason semi skimmed coke was double the price of full fat. I soon switched when I noticed the price difference. I also visited the shop and walked out chocking when they said they wanted thirty-nine dollars for a T-shirt. That afternoon we both had a siesta before going back up to the viewing deck. It was interesting to see a herd of wildebeest forming up into single file to do their migration to the nearby watering hole. Then come back a few hours later and disperse.
That evening during another chewy dinner I observed a group of elderly Americans who all seemed to be conversational in Swahili chatting to the staff as they were served. The headwaiter was making plans for dinner tomorrow. Apparently one hundred and forty five people were booked for that evening, the lodge only had beds for one hundred and forty. Six tables were going to be eating in the bar upstairs.
Coming up next Lobo the soap opera with animals!
Lobo
Today was going to be our day off to just chill out. But our guide suggested we have an early morning game drive, we didn’t argue. After a good breakfast we were on the road again! The surrounding area was teeming with game, herds of the usual suspects grazing on the lush green grass. We drove to a small river, which I believe is a tributary of the Grumeti. This seemed to be the favourite watering hole for the local animals, very picturesque. Here we got to video a young wildebeest suckling.
We drove along the river a few miles, when I spotted something on the opposite bank. Two lions! A male and female looking for lurvvee. Well the female was, the male was too knackered. No amount of tail wagging in the males face could tempt him. Our guide wanted us to wait and witness this disgusting deed, but we were to far away for a good porn video. (Actually we observed and filmed lions mating in Tarangire on our previous safari.) A few hundred meters further on I spotted a male lion disappearing into some bushes. The main pride was located. This was another big pride of thirteen lions and they were quite active, it was an overcast day. The other highlight was a reedbuck next to a kopje. I asked the guide if it was a mountain reedbuck, he said it was a bohors but what was it doing far from water next to a kopje?
After lunch I relaxed on the kopje enjoying the view while my Mother wrote postcards. Lobo was the most expensive lodge for soft drinks 1500 shillings for a coke and a whopping 3000 for diet coke. For some reason semi skimmed coke was double the price of full fat. I soon switched when I noticed the price difference. I also visited the shop and walked out chocking when they said they wanted thirty-nine dollars for a T-shirt. That afternoon we both had a siesta before going back up to the viewing deck. It was interesting to see a herd of wildebeest forming up into single file to do their migration to the nearby watering hole. Then come back a few hours later and disperse.
That evening during another chewy dinner I observed a group of elderly Americans who all seemed to be conversational in Swahili chatting to the staff as they were served. The headwaiter was making plans for dinner tomorrow. Apparently one hundred and forty five people were booked for that evening, the lodge only had beds for one hundred and forty. Six tables were going to be eating in the bar upstairs.
Coming up next Lobo the soap opera with animals!
