Trip Report Self Drive Botswana August 2013

Old Oct 12th, 2013, 03:08 AM
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Trip Report Self Drive Botswana August 2013

Here is our itinerary which I researched and planned myself and then used McKenzie 4x4 in Maun to make all the bookings for me. This saved me multiple bank transfer fees and Brenda McKenzie was very efficient. She sent me all the documents by courier to UK, as you need the originals with you for every location. She charged me around £80 for her service which I thought was a bargain. We exchanged many emails and she is a mine of information.

Johannesberg Rutland House B&B 1 nigh
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Lephalale area Ama Amanzi Game Lodge cottage 1 night

Khama Rhino Sanctuary 1 night chalet self catering

Kubu Island 1 night camping

CKGR Sunday Pan and Deception Valley 2 nights camping 

Maun Thamalakane River Lodge 1 night Fish Eagle room
Moremi Third Bridge 3 nights camping
Moremi Xakanaxa 3 nights camping

Maun again Thamalakane River Lodge 1 night Fish Eagle room - to restock and refuel
Moremi North Gate Khwai 3 nights camping

Chobe NP Savute 2 nights camping

Kasane 3 nights Serendipity cottage self catering

Chobe NP Ihaha 3 nights camping

Planet Baobab 2 nights - 1st in a baobab hut - 2nd we rode quad bikes out to sleep on the pan and to see the meerkats

Francistown 1 night Woodlands stopover chalet self catering

Kwa Tuli - Tuli Block 2 nights safari tent

Johannesburg Rutland house B&B 1 night

We hired a camping equipped 4x4 Land Rover Defender from Explorer Safari’s in Johannesburg. We had a change of vehicle half way through the holiday as our booked vehicle, an AHA camper with twin beds and portable loo, had to be given to some people who had wrecked one of the Explorer Safari’s a couple of days before our arrival. By the time we arrived we had to accept the only 4x4 camper they had, which was not perfect for our age!, but Mike and his team at Explorer Safari’s made sure we got the AHA as soon as it became available, so we were happy with that.

We flew with Air France from Bristol to Paris and onto Johannesburg overnight which is a very convenient flight for us living in the far South West of UK and we arrived at 9.50am in Johannesburg picked up the camper and went straight to the B&B.


We decided not to camp every night so that we could get our laundry done, have a good shower and eat out. Going back to Maun to restock etc worked well although the road from Maun to South Gate is a horror and we had to do it three times because of this decision.

We made all our bookings one year ahead after reading here and on other forums that this was vital to do so to get the campsites etc you wanted. We found in practice that at almost every campsite people were just turning up and getting a space. Not necessarily a proper camping pitch with a number! but rather a spot on the edge of the numbered pitches, by the ablutions, in the bushes (in the case of Savute!) or double booking as at Third Bridge. The only place this didn’t happen was Ihaha in Chobe NP. We noticed that most of those arriving without bookings were carrying ZA plates and owned their own vehicles. For those of us coming from so far away, turning up ‘on spec’ is usually not an option, but if you have the nerve you will probably be found somewhere to set up camp.

All the ablution blocks were clean and there was hot water at them all except one day at Third Bridge. We were very impressed. Toilet paper was provided at all and soap at some. All the camp managers were very friendly and helpful.

There is wood available at Khwai, Savuti and Ihaha.

There is a small tuck shop at Savuti and most entrance offices have maps and gift items for sale. At Khwai there is a shop over the bridge in the village. Its all very friendly and we felt very welcome everywhere.

We took enough bottled water for 10 ltr per day plus we had 60 ltr in the water tank on the Defender. In Central Kalahari we carried more. We kept the Defender topped up with fuel throughout and also carried two jerry cans. We ran it to empty on the return drive to Johannesburg so we had no worries about fuel. Never leave yourself short of water or fuel, its not safe as you never know when or where you might break down, and you could be waiting for several days for help to arrive. We probably ‘gave’ Explorer Safari’s 30 ltr or so at the end but peace of mind was worth it.

SOME OF THE THINGS WE WERE GLAD WE TOOK WITH US

LED head torches. Davecorina on Trip Advisor recommended LED LENSER and we bought two from amazon just before we left. We were so glad we did as they were fantastic. We took plenty of batteries with us as there was not always opportunity to recharge the ones that came with the torches. They are very bright but adjustable and when its very dark you need something that spots the hyena etc in plenty of time.

Lots of plastic bags for rubbish, small ones for food and large ones to put the bedding in each day. This kept everything as sand free as was possible.

Draper Drybags. We left our suitcases with Delia at the B&B in Johannesburg and transferred everything into the Defender. We packed our cloths in the dry bags before we left. We don’t pack ‘posh” so they were perfect. We also used some dry bags for our shower stuff. We could take everything, including our clean clothes, in the bag to the shower so that we didn’t run the risk of dropping it on the floor. There are seldom hooks etc in the ablution blocks.

We purchased our own Garmin GPS and Tracks4Africa maps which we downloaded from their website. We then input our route and downloaded it onto the Garmin. This gave us plenty of time to practice using the Garmin. We could also see exactly where we were going to drive and it certainly helped when we got to Botswana. Explorer Safari’s also provided one free of charge if you don’t want the extra expense but we enjoy the planning.

When you are working with Tracks4Africa you can switch to Google Earth from the area you are looking at. Its a great insight into the towns, roads and places you are going. They drove into Moremi last year so you can see the entrance to some of the camp sites. I used it to look a the shops in Palapaye to see if they had a mobile phone shop, locate the B&B in Johannesburg and many other places we were going.

We bought the Bradt guide to Botswana, a Tracks4Africa paper map and also the Veronica Roodt Shell maps including Moremi and Chobe. We also bought her book Shell Tourist Travel and Field Guide of Botswana which gives excellent information on the roads, places to stay and lots of good advice.

We took South African Rand with us which we were able to use at the border crossing into Botswana with no problem. We took cash from home and changed it at a bank in Palapaye and again in Maun and got a very good rate.

We hired a Satellite phone from Explorer and would do so again if we go to area’s like Central Kalahari. In Moremi there were lots of people around and some mobile reception. We have a triband unlocked phone from UK which we always take abroad and it picks up the local network as soon as we land, it means the kids can text us on our own number. We also bought a Botswana Sim Card for a spare mobile we took with us. We used the Satellite phone once and the Botswana Sim lots of times, it cost just a few Pula for the Sim at the Orange shop in Palapaye.

We took thermals as we knew it was going to be cold some nights and especially sleeping out on the Makgadikgadi Pans. Apart from the pans the coldest place was Johannesburg!

Food wise we took all our favourite sauces etc in travel size packs. You can never get Heinz Salad cream to taste the same if you buy it abroad! Boil in the bag rice was fantastic as we made lots of curry dishes (took packets of our favourite ones with us) . We tried to do one pan cooking whenever we could, as we prefer to eat in the evening although it’s more difficult cooking in the dark with animals around.

We took our own towels as we guessed those with the camper would be small, and they were.

Universal sink plug.

Lots of wet wipes, soap, shampoo, moisturiser and foot balm. You get very dry skin and your feet do not know whats hit them.

Doggy poo bags for when we needed a bush toilet. Never leave any paper etc behind.

Washing line and pegs, cold water clothes washing liquid in small travel size tubes.

We bought a multiple in car charger for the phones, camera batteries etc. It has 3 ports and we could charge several things at once up to 3 watts. It was invaluable as we take lots of photographs and video.

We took a catapult as advised by regulars on the forums and it worked a treat with the baboons. We just had to show it to them and they ran off.

Hubby got a Leatherman for Christmas and it was used lots of times and we will definitely take it everywhere we go from now on.

WHAT WE BOUGHT IN SOUTH AFRICA AND BOTSWANA

We went to Woolworths in Johannesburg to buy all our ‘basics’. They are excellent, rather like Waitrose in UK. The wine boxes were very reasonable and the best way to carry wine. Before we left I went onto their website and made myself a shopping list. They will deliver if you have an address you can use in SA so its all waiting when you arrive. Snoek pate is to be recommended. We bought chicken and fish as we had been warned not to take red meat across the border into Botswana. In Botswana Choppies, Pick and Pay and the Spar supermarkets are OK depending on the size of the town.

One we crossed into Botswana we bought steak, veggies and fresh milk. The beef in Botswana is outstanding and a fraction of the price we pay in UK. We didn’t carry any fruit with us the whole trip because we didn’t want to tempt elephants looking for oranges etc. As we had elephants standing right next to our camper on several occasions we were glad we didn’t have that orange!

We bought a cheap bucket and washing up bowl. The bucket was invaluable for carrying around all our dish washing bits and pieces and carrying water from the camp stand pipes. The washing up bowl we used to wash our feet every night on the steps of the camper before we went to bed. A bed full of sand was not going to happen.

WOULD WE GO AGAIN?

The answer is an absolute YES!! We did find the whole trip and big challenge, doing this for the first time when you are 62 and 64 is probably leaving it a bit late. Previously we had only self driven in Namibia (in Africa that is) which was a doddle compared to Botswana.

It was hard work setting up and putting down camp, cooking all your own food, driving through very deep sand and keeping vigilant in the camps for animals.

Elephants are so quiet and you turn around to find one right behind you, tippy toes. The Hyena at Third Bridge was only 5 feet away from me when I turned around feeling I was being watched. Unfortunately some people feed the wild animals and it causes problems for them as they then look for food from everyone.

There was an elephant at Xakanaxa running around breaking things and pulling bags out of 4x4’s when we arrived there. People were telling the rangers it should be shot! It wasn’t while we were there, but it was quite upsetting. That beautiful animal had been fed by stupid people and was now suffering the consequences.

To be camping out in the open, with millions of stars above you and lions roaring in the night is something we would recommend to everyone, and we can’t wait to do it again. Next time we camp we are going to spend at least a week in the Central Kalahari which was our favourite place of all those wonderful places. Before we do that we are going to try Sanparks accommodation in Kruger NP and Kgalagadi TP.

If anyone has questions please ask. Charlie
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Old Oct 12th, 2013, 11:50 AM
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What an adventure! This is a very helpful report, thank you for sharing all your tips. Would love to see photos if you have any online. Thanks again!
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Old Oct 12th, 2013, 06:55 PM
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Thank you for your informative post - not very many self-drive reports appear here. We have self-driven through Moremi and Chobe twice, following a similar itinerary to yours - your post made me long to return. Third Bridge is our favourite campsite.

I would love to see some photos and read more about what you thought of each campsite - especially those in Moremi and Chobe. Are they still having a problem with bandits at Ihaha? As a self-driver, were your driving hours restricted in the Chobe Riverfront area?

I would highly recommend Kgalagali - our favourite SAN Park. We self-drive in the park, but stay at the wonderful wilderness camps (rather than camping) - Urikaruus, Kieliekrankie, Bitterpan, Grootkolk, Gharagab. CR
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Old Oct 13th, 2013, 05:15 AM
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I will be making a Blurb book of the holiday once I have sorted out our 2000+ photographs. I will post a link to it once its finished.

canadian robin. You kindly sent me links to all your self drive blogs a couple of years ago. I took great inspiration from them. Third Bridge is, in my opinion, ruined by the company that's running it. It was double and triple booked and they let people who hadn't booked at all pitch up so the whole place was pretty packed. Everyone was complaining. Ihaha has security driving around at night so no problems with bandits but I was a bit worried as I wasn't sure if it was security or indeed bandits shining their lights into our tent at 3am!!!

I managed to get 13 nights in Kgalagadi by calling Sanparks at 6.30am on 1 October for September next year. Its become very popular and difficult to get in to the wilderness camps. We didn't want to stay in Nossob, TR or Mata Mata so stay at all the wilderness camps at least one night but Gharagab, Urikaruus three nights each. We have a Hilux 4x4 hired for the whole trip. Only 11 months to wait!
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Old Oct 13th, 2013, 05:21 AM
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http://youtu.be/Iy2BfFl33EA

I made this video going to Kubu Island. There are some others from this trip on my YouTube page and I will be doing more later.
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Old Oct 13th, 2013, 04:53 PM
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Incredible. Congratulations! I so admire your spirit.
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Old Oct 15th, 2013, 10:33 AM
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I thought we had corresponded a while back, but I wasn't certain. I am very happy to learn that you enjoyed such a wonderful experience.

Pity about Third Bridge - the last time we camped there, there were only two other sites occupied - that would have been October of 2011. On that same trip, the rangers had just started patrolling the campsite at night - like you, we had no idea if the vehicles we heard were the rangers or bandits, although our impression was that the bandits were crossing the river and coming from Namibia, so we assumed the vehicles belonged to the rangers. Nonetheless, having the vehicles driving past our campsite in the night rather ruined the atmosphere/experience.

So are they restricting the hours of self-drivers in the Chobe Riverfront? When we were there, there were rumours that, in the near future, self-drivers would not be allowed out at peak game-viewing hours - I believe self-drivers would be required to stay out of the prime riverfront areas until 9am. Have these restrictions been implemented?

We would love to do another self-drive through Botswana but I fear, compared to past experiences, we would find it a let-down.

I do have a complaint for you!! I went to your Kubu Island video, which of course led to the roads video, which in turn led to the wild dog video, and then to the honey badger video.....As a result, I was rather late for work this morning. When I explained to my boss why I was late, he just rolled his eyes - he is well aware of my passion for Africa.

Thank you so much for posting - I will look forward to more videos and photos. The Kubu Island video makes me long to return to Nxai Pan. I can't believe you saw wild dogs at Khwai - how lucky is that! We loved that campsite, even without the dogs. Wonderful honey badger sighting - wow - you were very lucky!
Robin
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Old Oct 16th, 2013, 03:03 PM
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Hi Robin no restrictions on driving the Chobe waterfront for self drivers. Glad you enjoyed the videos! I would go back to them all except Third Bridge, and there it's only the overbooking, it's still very wild, Hyena 5 ft from the camper. I did nag the camp manager and he kept us on our own pitch after the first night of double booking. If you pay for 8 people you can get a pitch to yourself from next year!! The others are I am sure just as good as on your last trip. We will go back to Khwai and Xakanaxa next time as they were fantastic. C
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Old Oct 20th, 2013, 07:46 AM
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Interesting - I thought those driving restrictions for self-drivers had been put in place shortly after our last trip. Have a look at the link below - scroll down a bit to the reference to self-drivers and the new limitations placed on them.

http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/...d.php?t=104897

Pity about Third Bridge - it was such a lovely campground - we could always count on nighttime visits from elephants and, of course, the hyenas.

Hopefully, by the time we find self-driving in Kenya and Tanzania too much of a challenge, Chobe and Moremi will still be worth returning to. Robin
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Old Oct 20th, 2013, 03:47 PM
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Hi we were worried about possible restrictions but it all seemed to have died a death? No problems whatsoever. Sometimes scare stories are without basis. Would love to hear about your plans for Kenya, Tanzania! Would you ever want to travel together? Bit nervous of those places but would so love to drive them but not alone. C
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Old Nov 8th, 2013, 05:57 AM
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Sorry - have been a bit busy at work. Good to learn that those restrictions never came into place. It might be worth visiting Botswana again, in combination with Zambia, which we loved - although the driving in Zambia is terrifying.

Our next trip to Kenya and Tanzania is booked for this summer. We begin in Arusha, Tanzania, and then drive to Tarangire NP (camping), Lake Manyara (camping), Ngorongoro Crater (Lemala Camp), and the Serengeti (camping at Moru Kopjes). From there, after an overnight at Speke Bay, we cross the border into Kenya and camp in the Mara Triangle (Dirisha campsite). So, we start is Arusha and end in the Mara. We are again using a Safari Drive vehicle. In Kenya, SD stores their vehicles at Serian Camp in the Mara North Conservancy so, after dropping off the vehicle there, we will fly to Nairobi and head home from there.

I don't know if I could ever convince my husband to travel in partnership with anyone again. We tried it in 2011 and it was a disaster. Our traveling companions did nothing but complain the whole time - about the cold, about the roads, about the roof-top tents, about the (lack of) hot water and showers, about cooking on an open fire, about the early mornings - it was a disaster! MY DH and I were so frustrated with them by the end of the trip that we could have fed them to the lions. On the up side, my husband has a whole new appreciation for me as a traveling companion!

You should definitely consider a self-drive in Tanzania and Kenya. The first time you make the trip, I might be inclined to drop the Kenyan portion, which is more challenging and intimidating, and just do the Northern Circuit of Tanzania - an in and out from Arusha. That is an easy trip - no more difficult than Botswana. Have a look at the Bradt Guide to Tanzania - it is very good! Robin
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Old Nov 16th, 2013, 03:49 PM
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Oh Robin I remember that night you had to drive out of camp with the tent up when there seemed to be bandits approaching!! That's why we would prefer to travel with others. I do understand that moaning Minnie's would put you off for life however. Good lion food. Maybe one day, we did love Tarangire and to self drive there would be amazing. Please send a link to your next trip report .

We finally got our two week dream trip to Kgalagdi, all wilderness camps by checking every day, three of four times, for cancellations.

Best wishes Charlie
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Old Nov 17th, 2013, 12:17 PM
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Hi Charlie!
Below is the link to our 2009 self-drive through Kenya and Tanzania. I have not completed the report for our 2012 trip, although the two trips were very similar.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/9504315_zcbkVx

Luckily, in all of our self-drives through Africa, that one incident with the poachers was the only time we have felt in any danger.

Enjoy the photos! Robin
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Old Nov 19th, 2013, 08:57 AM
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Thanks for the link, look forward to hearing more from you in the future. Charlie
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Old Nov 24th, 2013, 04:35 AM
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Hi Robin. I remember you took a cooler box with you one trip. How did you pack it as checked in luggage to protect it? thanks Charlie
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Old Nov 24th, 2013, 06:08 AM
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Hi Charlie! It was a typical Coleman cooler, and we simply checked it as is. We debated putting it in a duffel to protect it, but decided against it. Since it had no lock, we wound a lot of duck tape around it. It and its contents arrive safe and sound. Robin
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Old Nov 24th, 2013, 06:57 AM
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Great thanks will do the same
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Old Jan 28th, 2014, 03:09 AM
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In case you would like to see them my photographs are in a book which has a link to it on Safari Talk and Trip Advisor. (Its not for sale or anything) Charlie
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Old Jan 28th, 2014, 06:43 AM
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Fantastic! I had not seen the book. I will make myself a cup of tea and enjoy every minute! Thanks!
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Old Jan 28th, 2014, 10:07 AM
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What fun I have had reading your book - such a story and such wonderful photos. How they make me long to return to Botswana!

I laughed at the questions you asked yourselves as you headed out on your journey - we asked ourselves all of the same questions before our first self-drive through Botswana.

Rather an unsettling start to the trip! The 4x4 is intriguing - quite an ingenious set-up, apart from the lack of ladder!

I have always wanted to go to Kubu Island - such a stark and beautiful place. The moon and the baobabs must have been breath-taking! How wonderful to have it all to yourselves.

What a lovely photo of the campsite at night in the CKGR!
How remarkable to meet Alex near Sunday pan - what are the odds?

Maun has a Woolworths?? That's new! About time!

Good to learn that Hilary's still survives - great sandwiches and homemade lemonade!

You don't look quite as crowded at 3rd Bridge as I feared, but it may just be the angle that the photos were taken at. Hyenas are still at that campsite, are they? Scary creatures, the way they creep on on you at that site!

Beautiful roller photos - such gorgeous colour!

Interesting to read that there is still a troublesome elephant at Xakanaxa. If people would only learn not to leave food and garbage about. Nice of the elephant to clear the campsite for you!

Good heavens! Fireworks! That's a new one! Lovely lion photos!

It seems you too go to bed very early when you are self-driving and camping amongst things that will eat you!

Wild dogs! Wow! What a treat! We have only seen them once, years ago - your photos of them are great!

Breakfast in the hide - what a great idea!

Wow - the Savute Channel really was full. We have seen it full and stone dry - much nicer when there was water around.

I love the photo of the cut line road - we have one that I suspect is taken at exactly the same spot!

Your shots of the elephants in the Chobe River are lovely - some are so close!

Ihaha looks as lovely as always - those views across the river are so lovely. Are they still having trouble with bandits or have they solved that issue?

Ah - so, for safety, we should now travel with a slingshot/catapult and some velcro??

A lovely way to celebrate an anniversary, even with the awful wine!

We spent a night in Ghanzi a few years ago - on the way to Maun from Windhoek, I believe! A tiny place!

I love the head scarves - think I might try that for the dust in Kenya and Tanzania - although it looks like tying them properly is a bit of an art!

The night out on the pan looks amazing - cold, but amazing!

Oh my goodness - I'd never get across that bridge! Robert would have to ply me with a lot of wine!

What a fantastic book - a thoroughly memorable read. Thank you both so much for a most enjoyable morning - it has been a wonderfully nostalgic tea break! Robin
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