Trip report and pictures Zambia

Old Jun 13th, 2006, 06:21 AM
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Trip report and pictures Zambia

Hi all,

We got back from Zambia on the 1st of June.
Just wanted to share our pictures with you and give you a quick trip report.

I'll post the pictures first and start working on the trip report later.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=...&x=0&y=-yzl2b6

Stefanie


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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 06:39 AM
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africnow
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Some lovely photos. Especially like that baby monkey using mom's tail to climb the rock and the sunsets. Thanks.
 
Old Jun 13th, 2006, 06:43 AM
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santharamhari
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Stephanie,

Fantastic pics!!! Thanks for sharing....loved the lions/leopard/sunsets/antelope...everything, really.

What were the impalas running away from? Nice pic.

Hari
 
Old Jun 13th, 2006, 06:48 AM
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Hari,

I'd like to say the impalas were running away from something spectacular like lions or a leopard, but unfortunately they were just skittish and were running for no particular reason. I really like the puku in there, maskerading as an impala ;-)

Esmeralda
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 06:53 AM
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santharamhari
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Haha, sounds good.....thanks for sharing!!!

Hari
 
Old Jun 13th, 2006, 07:44 AM
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Thanks for sharing. I love the variety of wildlife you photographed--praying mantis, butterflies, lizards, it's fantastic! Also, great job with the falls--rushing water photos are still Dh's and my downfall!
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 08:25 AM
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johan_belgium
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Stefanie,

I really enjoyed watching your beautiful pictures. It seemed that you had a great time.

Greetings,

Johan
 
Old Jun 13th, 2006, 08:46 AM
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Enjoyed your photos. I'm eager to read your report. The canoe trail trip looks like a real adventure.

CW
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 09:11 AM
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Great pics Stefanie! WOW! Thanks!
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 10:46 AM
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Magnificent pics! Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to your report.
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 11:16 AM
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OK, clicking through the shots of those impala, like a quick animationm was great
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 11:18 AM
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Also, I posted this comment on your album, but nothing makes me more jealous than when I see someone with a great leopard shot!
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 11:34 AM
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FABULOUS pics and so many were just stunning that I didn't comment on all the greats, just the creme de la creme! Really nice shots indeed.
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 12:14 PM
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Great photos, even the weird photo of the "smiling" buffalo. I also stayed at Kafunta on my trip to South Luangwa and really enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing.

Michael
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 12:54 PM
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Ok, here it is, the trip report part 1.

Trip Report Zambia
Stefanie & Brian
May 16th - June 1st 2006

Livingstone, Nyala Lodge (3 days)
South Luangwa, Kapamba (3 days)
South Luangwa, Kafunta (3 days)
Lower Zambezi, canoe trail, Gwabi to Chongwe, camping on islands (4 days)
Lower Zambezi, Chiawa (3 days)

We left Amsterdam on the 15th of May and flew to Livingstone via London and Lusaka (British Airways and Zambian Airways)
We stayed at Nyala Lodge in Livingstone. It's a very small and quiet lodge out of town (not extremely luxurious, but the chalets were nice and clean and the staff was very friendly and helpful)
The first day we just unpacked and rested.
On the second day we visited the Victoria Falls.
We went there in the morning and it really surprised us that there were not that many people around. We were stupid enough to rent a poncho, which off course didn't help at all. We were completely soaked after a few minutes!

The next day we went horse-riding, which was really nice and relaxing.
In the afternoon we were going on a the sunset cruise on the African Queen. Unfortunately, when we arrived, the ship had already sailed (so to speak)
The people at the office of the African Queen were very helpful and brought us to the ship and on board with a speedboat (kind of embarrassing, but at least we were on board) The staff on the African Queen was extremely friendly as well and as you can see in the pictures, the sunset was stunning!

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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 12:55 PM
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part 2

Then it was time for our flight to Mfuwe Airport, again with Zambian Airways.
We were then brought to Mfuwe Lodge, where we had some time to relax before we were transferred to Kapamba, since it is a 3 hours drive.
The guy that was driving (can't remember his name) was driving like it was a highway instead of some dirtroad full of potholes, so it was quite a bumpy ride.
After about 1,5 hours it was getting dark and we had to duck for flying birds, which kept us awake (after a while it gets quite boring driving in the dark)
Unfortunately we got a flat tire and the jack didn't function properly, so we got a bit worried after 20 minutes of trying to get the flat tire of this truck.
Luckely after a few more tries the tire did get changed and we arrived in Kapamba shortly after that.
We were welcomed with warm cloths and brought to our tent. It was really nice (especially the bathroom) and spacious.
The food at Kapamba was excellent, especially the desserts!
In the evening we (all the guests who stayed at Kapamba) decided what we were going to do the next morning, a drive or a walk.
We only did a walk once, because I am quite lazy (to be honest) and it was quite hot.
Our guide during our stay was Gilbert. Thanks to him we got to follow the pride of lions for a couple of days.
Gilbert surprised us all by driving away from the pride on one of the drives, saying they were going to hunt in another location later.
We didn't really believe him, but sure enough when it got dark we could hear them getting ready to hunt close by (we were having our sundowner)
So we got in the truck and waited. Every now and then the spotlight was turned on and we could see the lionesses stalking the impalas (that were pretty close to the spot where Gilbert had parked the truck)
All of a sudden we heard the impala go down close by and the lions roaring. The spotlight was turned on again and we could see the lionesses fighting over the impala. Off course the male came in and took the biggest chunk of meat. Shortly after, the cubs joined in for the feast. The cubs were quite curious and came to check out the headlights of the truck. It was amazing!
The amount of game in that area was a bit disappointing, but we really liked the fact that the camp is so remote. We didn't see another vehicle once during our stay.

Highlights:
- great desserts/food
- the lion kill
- remoteness
- that beautifull bathroom!!

Negative:
- just one guide, so you have to agree with the other guests on a walk/drive
- not a lot of game in the area

After Kapamba we went to Kafunta, which is just outside South Luangwa National Park.
The setting is amazing, from the restaurant/bar/swimming pool and the chalets you have an amazing view over the floodplains.
When it gets dark, they turn on a light, so you get to see the hippos and the pukus grazing while you have dinner.
We got to see a lot of animals while we were there (pictures were posted earlier)
Our guide during our stay was Josephat.
The chalets were very nice, if you don't mind squirrels breaking and entering at night ;-)
They were chewing on some liquirish I brought with me. It took me a while to figure out why there were teeth-marks in them.......

One night we were brought to our chalet by a staff member. When we got inside we heard quite a some noise which sounded like it was coming from somewhere in the chalet. I off course suspected the squirrels straight away..... ;-)
Turns out there was an ellie in front of our veranda, munching on a tree. We looked out of our windows, and there we elephants everywhere around the chalet. We hadn't noticed earlier (neither did the guy that took us to the chalet) that we had walked straight through a breeding herd of elephants.....
On one of the drives we found a couple of lionesses hiding in the tall grass. When it got dark they started stalking some impalas.
Unfortunately they were quite clumsy and didn't succeed in catching anything.
But it was nice to see them try!

Highlights of Kafunta:
- the view!!!
- ellies in camp
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 12:55 PM
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part 3:

After Kafunta we flew back to Lusaka. From there we had a road transfer to Gwabi lodge, the starting point of our 4 day canoe-trail.
I would not recommend a road tranfer by the way, it was scarier than the whole canoe-trip......
(we saw quite a few accidents when we were driving there)

We arrived at Gwabi around 14.30 hours and we had about 15 kilometers to canoe that day.
There were no other people on the trip, so it was just us and our guide, Martin.
Unfortunately it was quite windy that day and we didn't have any previous canoe-experience, so we were about to find out that it was going to be quite a challenge for us.
We were fighting and swearing for most of the 15 kilometers, because we were blaming each other for not going the right way. Looking back now it was quite funny.....
Martin kept us motivated and told us it would get easier and a lot more fun once the wind was gone.
We arrived on an island on the Zambezi just before it got dark. Martin was making us dinner, while we were struggling to put up our dome-tent (no camping experience either) After that, we actually started to enjoy this canoe-trip. Being out there on an island, looking at the stars and listening to the sounds of the bush. At night you could hear the hippos everywhere and just the idea that animals could be just outside your flimsy tent was really breathtaking!

Day 2: about 30 kilometers of canoeing
The second day it was still windy, but we had a little bit more time to get to the place we were going to camp, so there was a lot less fighting in the canoe that day ;-)
In the afternoon we were picked up for a game drive through the game management area. There were lots of helicopters and planes going by over both sides of the Zambezi, so we asked what they were for. We found out that a few days earlier a plane had disappeared and the helicopters were looking for it. We drove on and passed a landing strip where the family of the people that were on the plane were standing. It was such a reality check..... I really felt sorry for those people.

The third day, the wind was completely gone and I finally understood what Martin was talking about on the first day. Canoeing could actually be a lot of fun.
We finally had some time to just sit in the canoe and enjoy the scenery, the birds, the elephants drinking and all the hippos that were everywhere.
That night we stayed at a place where we could finally wash ourselves properly in the river (there was a large shallow part so we wouldn't get surprised by crocs)
I can tell you, I have never felt so clean in my whole life......
The fourth day was very relaxing as well, just a little bit of canoeing and lots of resting.

Highlights of the canoe trip
- the back to basic feeling (it takes a while to get used to it, but after a while I started to enjoy most of it)
- the beautifull and remote areas where we camped
- the night skies
- the sounds at night around the tent
- watching ellies drinking up close without disturbing them
- bathing in the Zambezi, it doesn't get any better then that

Negative
- the back to basic feeling (I am a girl, I like basic things like a shower and a toilet ;-)
- the wind
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 12:56 PM
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part 4:

After that we were transferred from one of the islands by motorboat by James from Chiawa Camp.
(James is the boat-guide for Chiawa and also accompanies the night-drives as a spotter. If you go to Chiawa, be sure to ask for James as your spotter.....
His eyesight is just unbelievable)

When we arrived at Chiawa we were offered to go for a short drive (the morning-drives had left by then)
We decided to go for it (after taking the first real shower in 4 days, which of course made us VERY happy)
We drove around for about an hour and we were chatting with Daniel as he stepped on the brakes. There was a leopard, right next to the dirt road (first leopard pictures)
She just looked at us for a while. Daniel called the other game-vehicle but before it could arrive, the leopard got up, walked right past the car (we were told to sit absolutely still) and went into the bushes.
That was not a bad game drive!
At lunch we met the other fodorites (Star & Richard, Sharon & Richard and Sharon), which was really great. Such a small world, isn't it?
It should be quite funny to see Sharon aka Cooncats pictures, since we were both in Chiawa, with the same camera and the same lens............
So some pictures will probably look kinda familiar ;-)

The next day we walked from our chalet to the restaurant for tea and the game drive. We remembered to keep our eyes peeled for any animals that might be walking through camp.At the last chalet before the restaurant we saw this big elephant (OK, elephants are always big, but if it's just you walking without an armed guide, they are extra big)
Since I kind of have an elephant trauma since I was once charged by one in South Africa (ok, I was in a car then, but it was still pretty scary) I wanted to slowly back off and go back to our chalet. After discussing the risk at the chalet for a while we decided to go back and see if the elephant had moved off by then.
It had moved a bit further away from the path so we made it to the restaurant. There we watched it from a safe distance. Apparantly the elephant regularly visits Chiawa. After a while it moved right next to the restaurant again and wanted to have Sharons snack (we thought)
It was so cool to watch this ellie looking at us and sniffing the floor of the restaurant.
(off course I made sure I was standing way in the back, just in case ;-)

The last day at Chiawa we were in terrible doubt what to do, a canoe trail or a game drive.
We were driving Craig and Barbara (management Chiawa) crazy, by deciding at the last minute that we wanted to do a drive (they were just carrying a canoe to the water for us)
That's the thing with safari and or more then one game vehicle/option, you are always afraid you are not going to be that lucky person that gets to see those wild dogs, that lion kill or that beautifull leopard.......
(we unfortunately didn't get to see any wild dogs this holiday, which I was really hoping for, so I will have a good excuse to plan a new holiday soon ;-)
James was our spotter this last drive on our holiday and since I knew how good he was, I was convinced that if there was anything to see, he would spot it.
Some of fodorites were on a boat-cruise and were going to join us on the drive later. We were just on our way to pick them up somewhere, when James told Dispenser (our guide on the drive) to stop. There was this beautifull male leopard just lying there, waiting for us.
We just watched him for a couple of minutes and went back to pick up the others. We raced back to the spot where we left the leopard so everyone could see it, unfortunately it was gone by the time we got there.

Highlights Chiawa
- the two excellent leopard sightings
- ellie in camp
- the hide from which we saw some buffalo, a breeding herd of elephants, hippos
- the surprises they have for you (I won't spoil the surprise, for those who are going to Chiawa)
- the nice group (other fodorites)

Negative at Chiawa
I don't know how to put this nicely, but sometimes I found the management a bit patronizing. Of course this is just my opinion.
When we arrived at Chiawa we asked Craig and Barbara (management) if they had heard anything about the plane that was missing. They still had not found it by then.
Craig and Barbara then told us that the other guests were not told about the missing plane, and that they would appreciate it if we didn't say anything about it, because it
would scare or upset the guests (although we felt this was a bit insulting, we decided not to talk about it anymore)
We asked if we could have a private table for dinner (it had been Brians birthday the day before and we wanted to have a romantic dinner to celebrate, besides that, since you never have any time alone on a holiday like this, we felt like having dinner for two for a change)
This was apparantly not possible.
Furthermore, the way the staff had to sing for the guests did not fill me with joy. I just imagined how it would make me feel if I had to sing in front of people at my job.....

All in all we had a lovely holiday. The best time was definately the canoe-trip!!

Stefanie
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 01:39 PM
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Stephanie....thank you for the wonderful photos and detailed report. Regarding Chiawa's suprises - I have revealed some in my report (Barbara will not be happy)

Gaurang
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 01:51 PM
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I'm having a hard time keeping up with all the fantastic trip reports and photos lately!

Thanks for sharing yours, esmeralda. The canoeing trip sounds interesting. I think I might like doing something like that...for maybe a half a day.

Great shots in your gallery. Love many, but the Falls are so impressive.
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