Trip Report - Cape Town, Mala Mala, Rattrays, Singita April 2008
Apr 21st, 2008, 01:41 PM
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Trip Report - Cape Town, Mala Mala, Rattrays, Singita April 2008
I've been back about a week from a great trip, but this has been my first chance to post.
This trip was a special one for us, because we had invited my parents along for their first taste of Africa.
As usual the trip started after lots of very long days making sure work was up to date and in a position where it could be left in the hands of others. Our trip to the airport was uneventful except for a little navigation error finding the parking lot. We used www.airportreservations.com, and got valet parking with Anza, a couple miles south of SFO for $8 a day. A big saving.
Soon we had dealt with the check in formalities and were ensconced in the Virgin lounge, a snack and a couple of beers later and we were onboard, enjoying 8A and 9A on the upper deck. This ection has recently been switched from PE to UC so the seats were newer and in better condition. An excellent flight included good food and some nice wine. We arrived at 11:30am to an overcast and quite chilly LHR.
After a shower and breakfast at Revivals, we caught the Express to Paddington where my sister picked us up. Unfortunately it soon started raining so my plan to take a bird watching walk on Hampstead Heath were foiled, but a few avian critters did show up in the back garden and so I managed 8 new birds for the year in the UK.
At 4:30 our taxi came and took us to LHR, it was the parents first time at the front of the plane and so they really enjoyed short lines for check in and the Virgin dedicated security line, it really does take ten minutes from check in to being in the lounge - awesome. However VS had conspired to screw me over a little bit, so we spent 20 minutes dealing with an issue, which I hope to get resolved in my favor once I hear from customer service.
In the club house we enjoyed an excellent dinner, then mum and DW went for a manicure, while Dad and I enjoyed additional adult beverages. On board we had 4A,5A,4D,5D and the people around us were also going on safari, so it was quite a convivial group pre take off.
An excellent nights sleep, with Dad still asleep at 45 minutes out of CPT - pictures to prove it.
CPT airport has changed a lot since 1999 and definitely for the better, we were quickly through immigration, all our bags showed up and our transport was waiting, a good start!
We had chosen to stay at Kensington Place after loving it 9 years ago. So often thats a recipe for disaster, but not in this case, the same manager, Sasha, is working there and even recognized me. The rooms are beautiful and now have a laptop, handy for checking photos.
For our stay in CPT I had engaged the services of a local tour guide company, and the guide Margrit showed up at 3pm to take us on a city tour, then up Table Mountain. We were very lucky with the weather, enjoying 90F for our first 3 days in CPT. We had great sightings of Rock Kestrel's dive bombing Red-winged Starlings from the top, then saw another couple of new birds.
Dinner that night was at Baia, good food, in a nice location with a well put together wine list. I think you pay more than is necessary for the quality, though we all enjoyed our meal tremendously.
Next day saw us with Margrit heading for the Cape Point tour, we hopped the boat in Hout Bay to see the seals, then drove round Chapmans Peak to Cape Point, unfortunately, the wind was so strong we ventured to the top of the funicular and no further.
The penguins were a delight as always, as was a confiding Karoo Prinia, a new bird for me.
For dinner we ate at 95 Keroom Street, excellent meal, great service, probably the best meal we had in CPT.
The next day we went on a wine tour, unfortunately our guide had listened to one of my requests and not another, so we headed off to meet a particular vintner who was miles out of the way. It was a great visit, but the subsequent driving was not so great. However lunch at Le Petite Ferme was good if not great. Visits to Graham Beck and Fairview rounded off the afternoon. The tasting at Fairview was a sit down affair with 7 wines, and accompanying cheeses for R50. A great deal.
That night ( a very hot day) we ate at Leinster Hall. A funky old spot near the hotel. They set up for us outside on the deck, we appeared to be the only customers once the Rotary Club left, but more arrived as the night went on. The service was attentive, but quite old fashioned, but the food was excellent and well priced. We took our own wine and purchased one bottle and they waived the corkage.
Our last day started with a visit to Kirstenbosch, Margrit was in charge of the parents, while DW and I birded, and got some alone time. I dipped on the Cape Sugarbird, so we'll have to go back
We had lunch at Constantia Uitsig - excellent, including a wonderful chocolate dessert that had DW drooling. Then we headed to Bloubergstrand for the obligatory photo op, and got some great birds on the beach. We returned very slowly, stopping on the shoulder, to bird Rietvlei and saw some great birds.
That night we went to Five Flies, and had a very nice meal.
A very enjoyable trip to CPT and my parents loved it. Next time we go, it will be birding intensive, but we will still stay at Kensington Place.
This trip was a special one for us, because we had invited my parents along for their first taste of Africa.
As usual the trip started after lots of very long days making sure work was up to date and in a position where it could be left in the hands of others. Our trip to the airport was uneventful except for a little navigation error finding the parking lot. We used www.airportreservations.com, and got valet parking with Anza, a couple miles south of SFO for $8 a day. A big saving.
Soon we had dealt with the check in formalities and were ensconced in the Virgin lounge, a snack and a couple of beers later and we were onboard, enjoying 8A and 9A on the upper deck. This ection has recently been switched from PE to UC so the seats were newer and in better condition. An excellent flight included good food and some nice wine. We arrived at 11:30am to an overcast and quite chilly LHR.
After a shower and breakfast at Revivals, we caught the Express to Paddington where my sister picked us up. Unfortunately it soon started raining so my plan to take a bird watching walk on Hampstead Heath were foiled, but a few avian critters did show up in the back garden and so I managed 8 new birds for the year in the UK.
At 4:30 our taxi came and took us to LHR, it was the parents first time at the front of the plane and so they really enjoyed short lines for check in and the Virgin dedicated security line, it really does take ten minutes from check in to being in the lounge - awesome. However VS had conspired to screw me over a little bit, so we spent 20 minutes dealing with an issue, which I hope to get resolved in my favor once I hear from customer service.
In the club house we enjoyed an excellent dinner, then mum and DW went for a manicure, while Dad and I enjoyed additional adult beverages. On board we had 4A,5A,4D,5D and the people around us were also going on safari, so it was quite a convivial group pre take off.
An excellent nights sleep, with Dad still asleep at 45 minutes out of CPT - pictures to prove it.
CPT airport has changed a lot since 1999 and definitely for the better, we were quickly through immigration, all our bags showed up and our transport was waiting, a good start!
We had chosen to stay at Kensington Place after loving it 9 years ago. So often thats a recipe for disaster, but not in this case, the same manager, Sasha, is working there and even recognized me. The rooms are beautiful and now have a laptop, handy for checking photos.
For our stay in CPT I had engaged the services of a local tour guide company, and the guide Margrit showed up at 3pm to take us on a city tour, then up Table Mountain. We were very lucky with the weather, enjoying 90F for our first 3 days in CPT. We had great sightings of Rock Kestrel's dive bombing Red-winged Starlings from the top, then saw another couple of new birds.
Dinner that night was at Baia, good food, in a nice location with a well put together wine list. I think you pay more than is necessary for the quality, though we all enjoyed our meal tremendously.
Next day saw us with Margrit heading for the Cape Point tour, we hopped the boat in Hout Bay to see the seals, then drove round Chapmans Peak to Cape Point, unfortunately, the wind was so strong we ventured to the top of the funicular and no further.
The penguins were a delight as always, as was a confiding Karoo Prinia, a new bird for me.
For dinner we ate at 95 Keroom Street, excellent meal, great service, probably the best meal we had in CPT.
The next day we went on a wine tour, unfortunately our guide had listened to one of my requests and not another, so we headed off to meet a particular vintner who was miles out of the way. It was a great visit, but the subsequent driving was not so great. However lunch at Le Petite Ferme was good if not great. Visits to Graham Beck and Fairview rounded off the afternoon. The tasting at Fairview was a sit down affair with 7 wines, and accompanying cheeses for R50. A great deal.
That night ( a very hot day) we ate at Leinster Hall. A funky old spot near the hotel. They set up for us outside on the deck, we appeared to be the only customers once the Rotary Club left, but more arrived as the night went on. The service was attentive, but quite old fashioned, but the food was excellent and well priced. We took our own wine and purchased one bottle and they waived the corkage.
Our last day started with a visit to Kirstenbosch, Margrit was in charge of the parents, while DW and I birded, and got some alone time. I dipped on the Cape Sugarbird, so we'll have to go back
We had lunch at Constantia Uitsig - excellent, including a wonderful chocolate dessert that had DW drooling. Then we headed to Bloubergstrand for the obligatory photo op, and got some great birds on the beach. We returned very slowly, stopping on the shoulder, to bird Rietvlei and saw some great birds.
That night we went to Five Flies, and had a very nice meal.
A very enjoyable trip to CPT and my parents loved it. Next time we go, it will be birding intensive, but we will still stay at Kensington Place.
Apr 21st, 2008, 02:17 PM
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I didn't realize you were so serious a birder. I'm very much an amateur, but I find the lists on the Field Guides website very informative (although a bit too advanced for me).
http://www.fieldguides.com/2007weblists/saf07LIST.pdf
Looking forward to your reports on safari, and also comments on traveling with your parents. I've been trying, so far unsuccessfully, to convince my father to accompany me, but he's been relunctant.
Michael
http://www.fieldguides.com/2007weblists/saf07LIST.pdf
Looking forward to your reports on safari, and also comments on traveling with your parents. I've been trying, so far unsuccessfully, to convince my father to accompany me, but he's been relunctant.
Michael
Apr 21st, 2008, 07:32 PM
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Hi Matt
Welcome back. How exciting to have your parents along - they must have had a great trip! Unfortunately, my parents can no longer do that horrific plane trip, otherwise I am sure my Mum would be with me every trip!
Capetown sounded wonderful, but I am really looking forward to hearing about MM and Singita. Did you happen to meet a lady in the restaurant named Angel? I really miss seeing her since I have stopped going to Singita.
Kind regards
Kaye
Welcome back. How exciting to have your parents along - they must have had a great trip! Unfortunately, my parents can no longer do that horrific plane trip, otherwise I am sure my Mum would be with me every trip!
Capetown sounded wonderful, but I am really looking forward to hearing about MM and Singita. Did you happen to meet a lady in the restaurant named Angel? I really miss seeing her since I have stopped going to Singita.
Kind regards
Kaye
Apr 22nd, 2008, 07:25 AM
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Michael
Yes those lists are great, last time I checked out the site there was some great species specific location information from a trip report.
Hari
Gordon was our ranger for the entire time, he is a good birder so he was paired with us, as was our favorite tracker and excellent birder Phillemon.
Kaye
No, we did not meet Angel, our Banakeli was Vivian, who was a hoot.
Yes those lists are great, last time I checked out the site there was some great species specific location information from a trip report.
Hari
Gordon was our ranger for the entire time, he is a good birder so he was paired with us, as was our favorite tracker and excellent birder Phillemon.
Kaye
No, we did not meet Angel, our Banakeli was Vivian, who was a hoot.
Apr 22nd, 2008, 09:02 AM
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Carla
Four days in CPT, then three at Main Camp with my parents and our friends the Spellar's, then the parents were dispatched back to the UK, while we had three at Rattrays. Then we went to Singita Boulders for two nights alone.
Mala Mala
We had to get up early to catch the BA flight to CPT and connect to SAA for MM. The hotel packed some muffins and croissants for us to munch on at the airport. Unfortnately they misunderstood my request and so we were treated to some delightful Cheese, ham and jam croissants!
CPT airport is very busy with long lines in the domestic terminal, but we actually passed through very quickly, the flight was a little late leaving, but we still had plenty of time to hang around gate 13 at JNB. The baggage weight routine seems to change from trip to trip, this time they didn't weight hand items and the our bags were 64kg vs the allowance of 60kg and we didn't have to pay.
On landing at MM, we were greeted by the mayor (our friend Peter) and escorted back to Main Camp. Room 15 was a new one for us, and as always was very comfortable, with everything we could need from a room that we would spend very little time in. As usual we received a nice bottle of wine as a returning visitor gift.
My parents loved their room, and the whole camp, and the food. We certainly did justice to the lunch buffet on our first day, becuase it was lamb curry.
We had some real game highlights for MM including several mammal firsts and some we hadn't seen in a long time. The firsts were Mellers Mongoose, and an MM first of Honey Badger, seen in tall grass off Split Rock road near the Kruger boundary. In addition we saw both species of Jackal, the side-striped making a welcome return after several years of absence.
Just our luck to get one of the few days a year when Leopard are not sighted at all on the property as our first full day. So my parents went into their fourth of six game drives without having seen a Leopard, and while I was confident, you do start to get a bit worried. Our first night was very dark and quite windy, so we surmised that most Leopards had cached kills and had not left any convenient drag marks to follow, thus no Leopard sightings or even fresh spoor.
We had seen lots of Rhino, including a crash of 7 with some good male / female interaction, some good Elephant and the Eyrefield Pride complete with 9 cubs, now considerably bigger than when we saw them in October.
On our fourth drive we did eventually see Leopard which my mum loved, the Ngobswan female had killed a bushbuck and had it stashed in a tree off Skukuza road, we followed her as she went for a drink nearby. Later on we also saw the Bycycle Crossing Male, who looks in great shape. At the airstrip we also saw the Daughter of the Campbell Koppies female (Stripe) hunting Impala without success. The next day we saw the female with both cubs up the tree and a couple of Hyena below waiting for scraps. Also a new bird for us, and not listed at MM was the Fiscal Shrike. We were also to see an Eastern Nicator here thanks to Phillemon's sharp eyes.
The next day we also saw the Emsagwen male with the remains of a warthog kill, quite comically we watched a Hyena walk crab legged away with a prized piece of skin and bone.
Gordon had been given instructions to make sure my parents as first timers had a good time and saw the things that are not mentioned to us. He found Black Mamba, Puff Adder, Milkwood Locusts (got the name wrong I'm sure)and all kinds of cool bugs. He is very capable and knowledgeable having spent two years on a field guide / management degree. I recommend him highly, though his positioning for photography needs help. Phillemon is excellent in this role and I would rate him as the best tracker, also he has good English and a great sense of humor.
Four days in CPT, then three at Main Camp with my parents and our friends the Spellar's, then the parents were dispatched back to the UK, while we had three at Rattrays. Then we went to Singita Boulders for two nights alone.
Mala Mala
We had to get up early to catch the BA flight to CPT and connect to SAA for MM. The hotel packed some muffins and croissants for us to munch on at the airport. Unfortnately they misunderstood my request and so we were treated to some delightful Cheese, ham and jam croissants!
CPT airport is very busy with long lines in the domestic terminal, but we actually passed through very quickly, the flight was a little late leaving, but we still had plenty of time to hang around gate 13 at JNB. The baggage weight routine seems to change from trip to trip, this time they didn't weight hand items and the our bags were 64kg vs the allowance of 60kg and we didn't have to pay.
On landing at MM, we were greeted by the mayor (our friend Peter) and escorted back to Main Camp. Room 15 was a new one for us, and as always was very comfortable, with everything we could need from a room that we would spend very little time in. As usual we received a nice bottle of wine as a returning visitor gift.
My parents loved their room, and the whole camp, and the food. We certainly did justice to the lunch buffet on our first day, becuase it was lamb curry.
We had some real game highlights for MM including several mammal firsts and some we hadn't seen in a long time. The firsts were Mellers Mongoose, and an MM first of Honey Badger, seen in tall grass off Split Rock road near the Kruger boundary. In addition we saw both species of Jackal, the side-striped making a welcome return after several years of absence.
Just our luck to get one of the few days a year when Leopard are not sighted at all on the property as our first full day. So my parents went into their fourth of six game drives without having seen a Leopard, and while I was confident, you do start to get a bit worried. Our first night was very dark and quite windy, so we surmised that most Leopards had cached kills and had not left any convenient drag marks to follow, thus no Leopard sightings or even fresh spoor.
We had seen lots of Rhino, including a crash of 7 with some good male / female interaction, some good Elephant and the Eyrefield Pride complete with 9 cubs, now considerably bigger than when we saw them in October.
On our fourth drive we did eventually see Leopard which my mum loved, the Ngobswan female had killed a bushbuck and had it stashed in a tree off Skukuza road, we followed her as she went for a drink nearby. Later on we also saw the Bycycle Crossing Male, who looks in great shape. At the airstrip we also saw the Daughter of the Campbell Koppies female (Stripe) hunting Impala without success. The next day we saw the female with both cubs up the tree and a couple of Hyena below waiting for scraps. Also a new bird for us, and not listed at MM was the Fiscal Shrike. We were also to see an Eastern Nicator here thanks to Phillemon's sharp eyes.
The next day we also saw the Emsagwen male with the remains of a warthog kill, quite comically we watched a Hyena walk crab legged away with a prized piece of skin and bone.
Gordon had been given instructions to make sure my parents as first timers had a good time and saw the things that are not mentioned to us. He found Black Mamba, Puff Adder, Milkwood Locusts (got the name wrong I'm sure)and all kinds of cool bugs. He is very capable and knowledgeable having spent two years on a field guide / management degree. I recommend him highly, though his positioning for photography needs help. Phillemon is excellent in this role and I would rate him as the best tracker, also he has good English and a great sense of humor.
Apr 22nd, 2008, 09:02 AM
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Thanks, Napamatt - Agree, Gordon was very good and professional! We had a John as our tracker - also excellent and i don't know his last name, but, i'm sure you know him for before as he has probably been there for many years! You'll remember my reference to that relaxed Giant KF at the MM bridge and went a couple of times with Gordon to find him!
Apr 22nd, 2008, 09:32 AM
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Hari
We have seen that individual KF on many occasions, on this trip we also saw Pygmy Kingfisher which was a lifer. If John the tracker looks like Snoop Dawg, then its John Sibuye who has been there over 40 years.
We have seen that individual KF on many occasions, on this trip we also saw Pygmy Kingfisher which was a lifer. If John the tracker looks like Snoop Dawg, then its John Sibuye who has been there over 40 years.
Apr 22nd, 2008, 10:08 AM
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Matt, thanks for posting. I am sitting in the Joburg airport at the moment, reflecting on my past 5 days at Mala Mala. It was my first time there, and I have to say it was a wonderful experience. I will try to write up something of my own when I get back.
I look forward to hearing about your thoughts on Rattray's. I visited with Charlie the manager yesterday, and he gave me a tour of the property. Quite nice and private.
Andy
I look forward to hearing about your thoughts on Rattray's. I visited with Charlie the manager yesterday, and he gave me a tour of the property. Quite nice and private.
Andy
Apr 22nd, 2008, 12:45 PM
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Andy, with your great experience in East Africa as a pro photographer and guide, I'd very much like to hear your views on South Africa and MalaMala. Thanks and have an easy trip back.
regards - tom
regards - tom
Apr 22nd, 2008, 01:50 PM
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Sounds like a great trip Matt. Did you set a personal birding goal for the trip? More importantly, if you did set one, did you meet it? Can't wait for the photos. MalaMala once again delivered for you. Glad your parents enjoyed it.
Apr 22nd, 2008, 06:38 PM
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Hi Matt
Very pleased to hear of your excellent gameviewing. Would love to see a Black Mamba - maybe this upcoming trip.
Hi Andy
Unfortunately, I don't know much of your work. Pleased to hear that you enjoyed your visit to MM. Rattrays is a lovely camp - the rooms are stunning, though I am always happy with Main Camp. I am wondering which ranger/tracker team you had and I would love to hear what the highlights of your trip were.
Matt, look forward to hearing about your stay at Rattrays and Singita.
Kind regards
Kaye
Very pleased to hear of your excellent gameviewing. Would love to see a Black Mamba - maybe this upcoming trip.
Hi Andy
Unfortunately, I don't know much of your work. Pleased to hear that you enjoyed your visit to MM. Rattrays is a lovely camp - the rooms are stunning, though I am always happy with Main Camp. I am wondering which ranger/tracker team you had and I would love to hear what the highlights of your trip were.
Matt, look forward to hearing about your stay at Rattrays and Singita.
Kind regards
Kaye
Apr 24th, 2008, 10:36 AM
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Hari
Thats a different John.
On with the story.
We put the parents on the vehicle for the airport transfer while we headed off to Rattrays. A warm welcome from Charles, Melissa, Wesley and Alan awaited us. We were very glad to have the same ranger / tracker combo for the entire period.
On our first afternoon we headed south, ostensibly to try and call out a Gorgeous Bush shrike, but at Dudley Lookout we found very fresh Lion tracks. Philemon confimed it was the Eyrefield Pride with the cubs. We were soon joined by Wesley and his guests. At that point, the trackers, Philemon and Collen, went in search of Lions, supported by Wes and Gordon with rifles.After about twenty minutes the rangers came back, with news that the guys were right behind the Lions and we would pick them up in the riverbed and continue the search in the vehicle. We sped up going through the riverbed and the trcakers jumped on quickly. Philemon explained that he got to within 15 metres of the Lion's, when they saw him they ran off in the opposite direction. At the same time, another vehicle had joined us to help lok for the Lions and they were back on the road, as they took up station, the fleeing Lions ran straight into a very unfortunate male Nyala. We probably arrived on scene about 30 seconds after the kill, while the other vehicle had everything happen 10 metres from their vehicle in open terrain. Lucky. The feeding frenzy provided great viewing for about 45 minutes before we headed away.It is very cool to watch this many Lions eating a relatively small prize, the cubs would force their way, getting very little quarter from the mum's. At the end, everyone looked pretty happy, though we would expect them to continue hunting later that night.
We did have an incredibly frustrating morning at Rattrays, we were doing our big birding day when a report of Dogs came in from Kirkman's. We agreed the best course of action was to fly down Skukuza road and hold on. The dogs were mobile, which is always a challenge, and crossed the river twice, eventually ending up very close to where we were stationed. Unfortunately they moved away from us and into Trollips Camp, a private part of Mala Mala, over which MM can not traverse for a few weeks a year, when the residents are in camp. This was one of those days and so we lost the chance to see the dogs. But we continued with the birding and managed a creditable 90 species in the morning, including a relatively unusual bird for us at MM, the Acacia Pied Barbet.
Other notable encounters while at Rattrays included the Manyalethi male Leopard, and a couple of close encounters during bathroom breaks.
NOTE - don't read this section, if you're extremely scared of bathroom breaks in the bush.
DW was having a comfort break, sensibly facing out towards potential danger. Suddenly she shrieked and came running (pulling up trousers while doing so, quite a feat), a Hyena had been about 10 yards from her. I don't know who was more scared, her or the Hyena. Ironically we had both just finished reading "Whatever You Do, Don't Run". She was a little embarassed.
The next evening with a thunderstorm threatening, we stopped to put on the dreaded rain gear, so again she stopped for a comfort break. We were right at Clarendon Dam, having done a circuit through the entire open area, with nothing more ominous than a small herd of Wildebeest and the resident Black-Backed Jackals. While she was busy, she thought it odd that the Crowned Plovers were going crazy, but finished up and we went on our way. We turned left to go east past the dam and right in front of us was the Emsagwen Male Leopard. He gave a nice display of sitting on a termite mound, feigning interest in the Wildebeest, then gave a nice territorial roar. Unfortunately weather conditions and the fact we had forgotten our black garbage bags, meant our camera bags were tight shut and covered in protective layers, so no video.
So two relatively close calls, with a third to follow at Singita.
As always Rattrays was exceptional, the rooms are so comfortable and well organized. The service is excellent and the camp does manage a nice intimate feel. Our check out was marred by a little mistake, that turned into a big deal, because the staff insisted on following protocol, instead of trusting the guest. To say I was annoyed would be an understatement, but apologies were offered and accepted from Charles and we parted on good terms.
Thats a different John.
On with the story.
We put the parents on the vehicle for the airport transfer while we headed off to Rattrays. A warm welcome from Charles, Melissa, Wesley and Alan awaited us. We were very glad to have the same ranger / tracker combo for the entire period.
On our first afternoon we headed south, ostensibly to try and call out a Gorgeous Bush shrike, but at Dudley Lookout we found very fresh Lion tracks. Philemon confimed it was the Eyrefield Pride with the cubs. We were soon joined by Wesley and his guests. At that point, the trackers, Philemon and Collen, went in search of Lions, supported by Wes and Gordon with rifles.After about twenty minutes the rangers came back, with news that the guys were right behind the Lions and we would pick them up in the riverbed and continue the search in the vehicle. We sped up going through the riverbed and the trcakers jumped on quickly. Philemon explained that he got to within 15 metres of the Lion's, when they saw him they ran off in the opposite direction. At the same time, another vehicle had joined us to help lok for the Lions and they were back on the road, as they took up station, the fleeing Lions ran straight into a very unfortunate male Nyala. We probably arrived on scene about 30 seconds after the kill, while the other vehicle had everything happen 10 metres from their vehicle in open terrain. Lucky. The feeding frenzy provided great viewing for about 45 minutes before we headed away.It is very cool to watch this many Lions eating a relatively small prize, the cubs would force their way, getting very little quarter from the mum's. At the end, everyone looked pretty happy, though we would expect them to continue hunting later that night.
We did have an incredibly frustrating morning at Rattrays, we were doing our big birding day when a report of Dogs came in from Kirkman's. We agreed the best course of action was to fly down Skukuza road and hold on. The dogs were mobile, which is always a challenge, and crossed the river twice, eventually ending up very close to where we were stationed. Unfortunately they moved away from us and into Trollips Camp, a private part of Mala Mala, over which MM can not traverse for a few weeks a year, when the residents are in camp. This was one of those days and so we lost the chance to see the dogs. But we continued with the birding and managed a creditable 90 species in the morning, including a relatively unusual bird for us at MM, the Acacia Pied Barbet.
Other notable encounters while at Rattrays included the Manyalethi male Leopard, and a couple of close encounters during bathroom breaks.
NOTE - don't read this section, if you're extremely scared of bathroom breaks in the bush.
DW was having a comfort break, sensibly facing out towards potential danger. Suddenly she shrieked and came running (pulling up trousers while doing so, quite a feat), a Hyena had been about 10 yards from her. I don't know who was more scared, her or the Hyena. Ironically we had both just finished reading "Whatever You Do, Don't Run". She was a little embarassed.
The next evening with a thunderstorm threatening, we stopped to put on the dreaded rain gear, so again she stopped for a comfort break. We were right at Clarendon Dam, having done a circuit through the entire open area, with nothing more ominous than a small herd of Wildebeest and the resident Black-Backed Jackals. While she was busy, she thought it odd that the Crowned Plovers were going crazy, but finished up and we went on our way. We turned left to go east past the dam and right in front of us was the Emsagwen Male Leopard. He gave a nice display of sitting on a termite mound, feigning interest in the Wildebeest, then gave a nice territorial roar. Unfortunately weather conditions and the fact we had forgotten our black garbage bags, meant our camera bags were tight shut and covered in protective layers, so no video.
So two relatively close calls, with a third to follow at Singita.
As always Rattrays was exceptional, the rooms are so comfortable and well organized. The service is excellent and the camp does manage a nice intimate feel. Our check out was marred by a little mistake, that turned into a big deal, because the staff insisted on following protocol, instead of trusting the guest. To say I was annoyed would be an understatement, but apologies were offered and accepted from Charles and we parted on good terms.
Apr 24th, 2008, 02:29 PM
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DW reminded me to mention Simonstown as worth a quick stop to see the statue of Just Nuisance and some of the photographs of him. She even bought the book.
Also worth considering in the area, would be hiking in the Silver Mine reserve area, this is one of the best spots to see Verreaux's Eagle and is supposed to be very picturesque. We didn't have time, maybe on another trip.
Also worth considering in the area, would be hiking in the Silver Mine reserve area, this is one of the best spots to see Verreaux's Eagle and is supposed to be very picturesque. We didn't have time, maybe on another trip.
