Travel in Jordan like a Rock Star!
May 2nd, 2007, 01:22 PM
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Travel in Jordan like a Rock Star!
I work for an insurance company in the Midwestern US. This is as dull as it gets. To keep sane, my friend Mary and I take an annual girls trip.
Last year our girl’s trip was to Morocco where we climbed the tallest peak in the Atlas Mountains. Stick with me here– this does pertain to Jordan.
While climbing, we met a gal who was on holiday alone. It turns out she was a guide for Exodus travel. I had never heard of Exodus. We climbed together, and at the summit she asked if she could photograph us for the Exodus brochure.
The rest is history: we ended up booking a bike trip to Jordan with Exodus.
We flew from JFK to Amman on Royal Jordanian. I sat next to a sweet boy who was a student at Lehigh University, and was traveling home to surprise his parents. For 9 hours he taught me Arabic phrases as the man seated behind me chanted verses from the Qu’ran.
When we landed, we purchased our visa, and then went through immigration where we were fingerprinted and photographed. The whole process took about 15 minutes and was quite easy.
Mary and I took a cab to our hotel in Madaba, in the outskirts of Amman. The cab fares are set at the airport, so there is no negotiation.
That evening we met the group: Paul was a tall dark and dreamy Lebanese man who was the bike guide. Moyaad was the guide for the historical sites.
The remaining 9 members of our group were all British and each one a gem – not a dud in the bunch.
Last year our girl’s trip was to Morocco where we climbed the tallest peak in the Atlas Mountains. Stick with me here– this does pertain to Jordan.
While climbing, we met a gal who was on holiday alone. It turns out she was a guide for Exodus travel. I had never heard of Exodus. We climbed together, and at the summit she asked if she could photograph us for the Exodus brochure.
The rest is history: we ended up booking a bike trip to Jordan with Exodus.
We flew from JFK to Amman on Royal Jordanian. I sat next to a sweet boy who was a student at Lehigh University, and was traveling home to surprise his parents. For 9 hours he taught me Arabic phrases as the man seated behind me chanted verses from the Qu’ran.
When we landed, we purchased our visa, and then went through immigration where we were fingerprinted and photographed. The whole process took about 15 minutes and was quite easy.
Mary and I took a cab to our hotel in Madaba, in the outskirts of Amman. The cab fares are set at the airport, so there is no negotiation.
That evening we met the group: Paul was a tall dark and dreamy Lebanese man who was the bike guide. Moyaad was the guide for the historical sites.
The remaining 9 members of our group were all British and each one a gem – not a dud in the bunch.
May 2nd, 2007, 01:25 PM
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On the first day, we traveled to Jerash. This is where we got our bikes. Here is a little known fact about Jordan: people above the age of 7 generally do not cycle here. Biking is seen as a kids sport, and most found it humorous to actually see grownups on a bike. So, in addition to be lily white skinned westerners in short sleeves and bright colored helmets, we were on bikes.
Now, this made us quite spectacular in the scheme of things. Most thought the circus had come to town!
Bear in mind that we were cycling only on the sleepy back roads where the tourist groups do not generally travel. Local folks would come running from their homes as we cycled past, waving their hands and smiling. I particularly remember one small girl racing from the fields shrieking at the top of her lungs she was so excited. Sometimes the children would simply stand at the side of the road and yell ‘good job!’
But wait, there’s more: to ratchet this up another notch, we often had a police escort. These were the tourist police. I never did get the full story, as we never felt we were in the least bit of danger. The police would escort us at the front and rear, and turn on the sirens and flashing lights as we drove through these remote towns. This was the automatic invitation for anyone within shouting distance to run out and watch the parade. Rock stars indeed!
Now, this made us quite spectacular in the scheme of things. Most thought the circus had come to town!
Bear in mind that we were cycling only on the sleepy back roads where the tourist groups do not generally travel. Local folks would come running from their homes as we cycled past, waving their hands and smiling. I particularly remember one small girl racing from the fields shrieking at the top of her lungs she was so excited. Sometimes the children would simply stand at the side of the road and yell ‘good job!’
But wait, there’s more: to ratchet this up another notch, we often had a police escort. These were the tourist police. I never did get the full story, as we never felt we were in the least bit of danger. The police would escort us at the front and rear, and turn on the sirens and flashing lights as we drove through these remote towns. This was the automatic invitation for anyone within shouting distance to run out and watch the parade. Rock stars indeed!
May 3rd, 2007, 01:36 AM
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The first days bike ride was thorough the olive groves in northern Jordan, descending into the Jordan River valley. Lush, green and beautiful. It reminded me of Italy. Paul would cycle with us while Moyaad would ride behind in the air conditioned sag wagon.
That evening we went to a restaurant the Moyaad suggested. From the outside the place looked bleak, then you enter a glorious courtyard with fountains and tables spread around. There was a small band, and after a few glasses of wine I was actually belly dancing with a local guy. Lubricated by wine, I thought I was quite good! Well, at least I tried and I was not arrested.
On day 2 we cycled to Mt Nebo. Moyaad gave us a tour of the site. He was so passionate about the history; it really came alive with his enthusiasm. From here you can see the Dead Sea and Jericho.
Then the funniest thing happened. I am laughing now as I write this. We were all lined up on our bikes ready to continue, when a Japanese tour bus pulled up. Then these Japanese tourists proceeded to snap our pictures. They didn’t even know us. One had his picture taken with us. One was videotaping us. Can you imagine the dinner party where that video will be shown?
The countryside from Mt Nebo to the Dead Sea was far more rocky and barren. We finished the cycle by descending down to the Dead Sea. We biked past the posh Marriott and Moevenpik resorts. There is much construction going on here – buy your condo now!
At the Dead Sea we went to a local park, put on our swim suits and attempted to swim. Boy is that a funny feeling to bob in the water like a cork. We were all laughing and finished the day with fresh cucumber, tomato and hummus sandwiches.
That evening we went to a restaurant the Moyaad suggested. From the outside the place looked bleak, then you enter a glorious courtyard with fountains and tables spread around. There was a small band, and after a few glasses of wine I was actually belly dancing with a local guy. Lubricated by wine, I thought I was quite good! Well, at least I tried and I was not arrested.
On day 2 we cycled to Mt Nebo. Moyaad gave us a tour of the site. He was so passionate about the history; it really came alive with his enthusiasm. From here you can see the Dead Sea and Jericho.
Then the funniest thing happened. I am laughing now as I write this. We were all lined up on our bikes ready to continue, when a Japanese tour bus pulled up. Then these Japanese tourists proceeded to snap our pictures. They didn’t even know us. One had his picture taken with us. One was videotaping us. Can you imagine the dinner party where that video will be shown?
The countryside from Mt Nebo to the Dead Sea was far more rocky and barren. We finished the cycle by descending down to the Dead Sea. We biked past the posh Marriott and Moevenpik resorts. There is much construction going on here – buy your condo now!
At the Dead Sea we went to a local park, put on our swim suits and attempted to swim. Boy is that a funny feeling to bob in the water like a cork. We were all laughing and finished the day with fresh cucumber, tomato and hummus sandwiches.
May 3rd, 2007, 01:44 AM
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That evening we drove to Petra and checked into our hotel. A hotel that, we found out the next morning, was about 3 meters from the local mosque.
Ahh, nothing like being awakened at 4 am by the call to prayer. Then there is a 10 minute pause, and the call goes out again. Then there is a bit more silence and the first prayer is broadcast. This all went on for about 30 minutes. It was fascinating, but I think I might tire of it had we stayed for several days.
On day 3 we toured Petra. Moyaad did not disappoint; the site came alive with his descriptions and stories.
That evening I went with a couple of the guys to a local Petra bar. We were the only ones there. The poor bartender and restaurant manager were bored to tears, and they persuaded me to play a game of Foosball with them. It quickly became apparent that they spend most evenings playing foosball with each other. And I have never played foosball before in my life. But I guess my ineptitude was amusing, and when I did by some miracle score, my bartender partner jumped up and down and gave me a high five. Have you seen the movie Borat? Yeah, that’s what I’m talking about.
On day 4 we biked to Little Petra. Apparently 2000 years ago Little Petra is what we would call the suburban office complex where business was conducted, only here the offices were stone structures cut into the cliffs.
Cycling back from Little Petra, we rode through a village that was on a steep uphill grade. School had let out for lunch, and our police escort was announcing our arrival: Whoop! Whoop! This meant that all the school kids ran out and tried to catch us. And catching us was easy when you are cycling at a snails pace on the uphill grade. Some kids were trying to be helpful and push us; some were grabbing our wheels and pulling. It was nuts, kids were swarming around us, so I got off my bike and yelled ‘La!’ meaning ‘No!’. Finally they scattered.
After that drama, Mary and I decided to try the Turkish hammam when we returned to the hotel.
Can I just say it was a miraculous experience and why the heck don’t we have true hammams in the US?
A quick recap: we were in the steam room for about 30 minutes. A veiled gal came and escorted me to the scrubbing room. In the room, she proceeded to take off her veil and robes, underneath she was wearing a tank top and pajama pants. She spent 15 minutes scrubbing my entire body with these special gloves.
And I cannot even convey the amount of gray, dead skin that came off! Sorry to be so graphic, but everyone should experience this at least once. I mean, you think you are clean by showering daily, but in reality…sheesh!
After the scrubbing, I had a massage, followed up by a cup of tea while tightly wrapped head to toe in a towel. This may have been the highlight of the entire trip.
Ahh, nothing like being awakened at 4 am by the call to prayer. Then there is a 10 minute pause, and the call goes out again. Then there is a bit more silence and the first prayer is broadcast. This all went on for about 30 minutes. It was fascinating, but I think I might tire of it had we stayed for several days.
On day 3 we toured Petra. Moyaad did not disappoint; the site came alive with his descriptions and stories.
That evening I went with a couple of the guys to a local Petra bar. We were the only ones there. The poor bartender and restaurant manager were bored to tears, and they persuaded me to play a game of Foosball with them. It quickly became apparent that they spend most evenings playing foosball with each other. And I have never played foosball before in my life. But I guess my ineptitude was amusing, and when I did by some miracle score, my bartender partner jumped up and down and gave me a high five. Have you seen the movie Borat? Yeah, that’s what I’m talking about.
On day 4 we biked to Little Petra. Apparently 2000 years ago Little Petra is what we would call the suburban office complex where business was conducted, only here the offices were stone structures cut into the cliffs.
Cycling back from Little Petra, we rode through a village that was on a steep uphill grade. School had let out for lunch, and our police escort was announcing our arrival: Whoop! Whoop! This meant that all the school kids ran out and tried to catch us. And catching us was easy when you are cycling at a snails pace on the uphill grade. Some kids were trying to be helpful and push us; some were grabbing our wheels and pulling. It was nuts, kids were swarming around us, so I got off my bike and yelled ‘La!’ meaning ‘No!’. Finally they scattered.
After that drama, Mary and I decided to try the Turkish hammam when we returned to the hotel.
Can I just say it was a miraculous experience and why the heck don’t we have true hammams in the US?
A quick recap: we were in the steam room for about 30 minutes. A veiled gal came and escorted me to the scrubbing room. In the room, she proceeded to take off her veil and robes, underneath she was wearing a tank top and pajama pants. She spent 15 minutes scrubbing my entire body with these special gloves.
And I cannot even convey the amount of gray, dead skin that came off! Sorry to be so graphic, but everyone should experience this at least once. I mean, you think you are clean by showering daily, but in reality…sheesh!
After the scrubbing, I had a massage, followed up by a cup of tea while tightly wrapped head to toe in a towel. This may have been the highlight of the entire trip.
May 3rd, 2007, 09:16 AM
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Glad you had a good trip to Jordan - we went a few years ago and loved it.
Exodus is a very well established and successful travel company here in the UK. A friends works for them - he markets their Arctic and Antarctic trips. We ended up booking our Antarctica trip through them - we travelled with Peregrine and there's some link between them and Exodus.
Exodus is a very well established and successful travel company here in the UK. A friends works for them - he markets their Arctic and Antarctic trips. We ended up booking our Antarctica trip through them - we travelled with Peregrine and there's some link between them and Exodus.
May 3rd, 2007, 03:24 PM
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Queenie, I was at the Dead Sea in Israel just 3 months ago, and yes indeed, it's weird trying to swim in that water!! It's like the water wants to spit you out. Quite an experience. 
Please tell me there's more to come....
Please tell me there's more to come....
May 7th, 2007, 04:55 AM
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Thanks for reading. Yes, there is more including shock & blood! But all turns out OK.
On an aside, Kavey I wanted to thank you for some restaurant recs for Talinn & Helsinki when we traveled there in 2003. Very helpful.
OK, let me get back to writing...
On an aside, Kavey I wanted to thank you for some restaurant recs for Talinn & Helsinki when we traveled there in 2003. Very helpful.
OK, let me get back to writing...
May 7th, 2007, 08:11 AM
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Oh my, you're very welcome... I do love hearing back from someone who has found a tip or recommendation of mine useful!
I get so much myself from forums such as this that it's great to know one is contributing usefuly also!
I get so much myself from forums such as this that it's great to know one is contributing usefuly also!
May 7th, 2007, 09:00 AM
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The days began to run together. We cycled in the mornings, then stopped for a snacks of freshly baked pita bread, hummus, tabouli, tomatoes, olives and figs served on the back of the sag wagon.
On day 6 we ended up in Aqaba. I will admit that Mary and I were so tired at the end of that day that we had a quick dinner at the McDonalds. I had a McArabe (chicken in a pita). I think Mary ate fries and ice cream.
The next morning we took a minibus to a resort on the Red Sea. As an American, it was amazing to see the road signs reading: Saudi border 5 km.
We snorkeled in the Red Sea. It was warm and the water was clear. Quite a nice break from the Midwestern snow.
Later that day I experienced an incredibly unusual event. We were biking a lonely road in Wadi Rum. Now, Wadi Rum is basically a desert. There are no towns to speak of, it is desolate. The group had stopped for a water break. Then a car pulls up, and I hear someone call my name. It was a friend of mine from Zurich! I am not kidding. There she was with her husband on this country road in the middle of the desert calling my name.
It turns out that she had seen the bikes. As no one bikes in Jordan, and I had told her about the trip, she knew I had to be in the mix. They had been on a holiday in Egypt and decided to take the ferry to Jordan – and we just happened to meet. Synchronicity.
Later that day more drama: We are literally 1 kilometer from finishing the bike portion of this trip when Mary’s wheel slips on some gravel and she goes down hard on her knee. The knee is split open and bleeding. Moyaad swoops in on the sag wagon and transports Mary to some medical clinic nearby.
On day 6 we ended up in Aqaba. I will admit that Mary and I were so tired at the end of that day that we had a quick dinner at the McDonalds. I had a McArabe (chicken in a pita). I think Mary ate fries and ice cream.
The next morning we took a minibus to a resort on the Red Sea. As an American, it was amazing to see the road signs reading: Saudi border 5 km.
We snorkeled in the Red Sea. It was warm and the water was clear. Quite a nice break from the Midwestern snow.
Later that day I experienced an incredibly unusual event. We were biking a lonely road in Wadi Rum. Now, Wadi Rum is basically a desert. There are no towns to speak of, it is desolate. The group had stopped for a water break. Then a car pulls up, and I hear someone call my name. It was a friend of mine from Zurich! I am not kidding. There she was with her husband on this country road in the middle of the desert calling my name.
It turns out that she had seen the bikes. As no one bikes in Jordan, and I had told her about the trip, she knew I had to be in the mix. They had been on a holiday in Egypt and decided to take the ferry to Jordan – and we just happened to meet. Synchronicity.
Later that day more drama: We are literally 1 kilometer from finishing the bike portion of this trip when Mary’s wheel slips on some gravel and she goes down hard on her knee. The knee is split open and bleeding. Moyaad swoops in on the sag wagon and transports Mary to some medical clinic nearby.
May 7th, 2007, 09:08 AM
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I was ahead of Mary and unaware of any of this. According to Mary, she is in the clinic with Moyaad when a doctor looking exactly like Russell Crowe cleans and stitches her wound. Doctor HOTTIE speaks no English, but Moyaad is able to translate the Arabic.
Mary’s injury is the most exciting thing to happen in this clinic outpost in years. Suddenly the operating room crowds with local folks, including our sweet bus driver Mohammoud who assists with the procedure!
That night Mary joined the rest of the group in the Bedouin tents. We take a four wheel drive into the desert and spend the night in a tent, and enjoy a traditional Bedouin meal. Mary is loaded up on pain killers, so she is really enjoying the evening.
The next morning we place our camel ride order (no lie) and go on a 4 wheel drive into the desert. When we return, our camels are waiting for us and we all take the obligatory camel ride and snap the obligatory camel photos.
Sadly, we must then drive back to Amman and say our goodbyes. Our plane back to the US leaves early the next morning. It was a wonderful trip and Exodus did a sensational job. Jordan is so beautiful and the people are charming.
When we returned home, Mary did go to her local hospital where the doctor promptly removed the 6 stitches from the Bedouin clinic and replaced them with 22 stitches. But the wound has healed well and is quite a conversation piece for a glorious trip!
Mary’s injury is the most exciting thing to happen in this clinic outpost in years. Suddenly the operating room crowds with local folks, including our sweet bus driver Mohammoud who assists with the procedure!
That night Mary joined the rest of the group in the Bedouin tents. We take a four wheel drive into the desert and spend the night in a tent, and enjoy a traditional Bedouin meal. Mary is loaded up on pain killers, so she is really enjoying the evening.
The next morning we place our camel ride order (no lie) and go on a 4 wheel drive into the desert. When we return, our camels are waiting for us and we all take the obligatory camel ride and snap the obligatory camel photos.
Sadly, we must then drive back to Amman and say our goodbyes. Our plane back to the US leaves early the next morning. It was a wonderful trip and Exodus did a sensational job. Jordan is so beautiful and the people are charming.
When we returned home, Mary did go to her local hospital where the doctor promptly removed the 6 stitches from the Bedouin clinic and replaced them with 22 stitches. But the wound has healed well and is quite a conversation piece for a glorious trip!
May 8th, 2007, 08:20 AM
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A glorious trip indeed! I am so glad I stumbled onto your trip report: I enjoyed every bit of it -- very well written. What a wonderful adventure for you and your friend.
I think I'll check into Exodus. I'm going to Egypt with a group in a few months and had signed on to a post trip to Jordan but it was canceled for "lack of interest."
I was bitterly disappointed; Jordan has been on my short list for a while so now I'll have to find a way to get there. No bike tours for me though. I loved the description of the people running out to see you guys pass by.
Are you back to work now and planning your next adventure?
I think I'll check into Exodus. I'm going to Egypt with a group in a few months and had signed on to a post trip to Jordan but it was canceled for "lack of interest."
I was bitterly disappointed; Jordan has been on my short list for a while so now I'll have to find a way to get there. No bike tours for me though. I loved the description of the people running out to see you guys pass by.
Are you back to work now and planning your next adventure?
May 8th, 2007, 03:58 PM
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Thanks again -- really enjoyed your report! I am still debating between possibly adding Jordan on to an Egypt trip next year, or saving Jordan for its own (longer) trip farther down the line... right now, it's hard to resist the idea of going sooner than later!
Aug 2nd, 2009, 08:46 AM
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Leslie,
I went to Morocco with OAT (Overseas Adventure Travel) and had a wonderful trip. There were 12 people in the group and all seemed to enjoy our tour. You can read the itinerary on the web site: OATtravel.com. I loved the food and the people we met along the way and I especially enjoyed our time in the desert and the smaller towns in the country.
It seemed like a short flight (7 hours?) from JFK to an such an exotic country.
Morocco is a beautiful country and I'd love to return, but am traveling to countries new to me before making a return trip.
I hope that you'll find the right tour for you and that you'll love Morocco as much as I did.
I went to Morocco with OAT (Overseas Adventure Travel) and had a wonderful trip. There were 12 people in the group and all seemed to enjoy our tour. You can read the itinerary on the web site: OATtravel.com. I loved the food and the people we met along the way and I especially enjoyed our time in the desert and the smaller towns in the country.
It seemed like a short flight (7 hours?) from JFK to an such an exotic country.
Morocco is a beautiful country and I'd love to return, but am traveling to countries new to me before making a return trip.
I hope that you'll find the right tour for you and that you'll love Morocco as much as I did.
Aug 3rd, 2009, 04:42 AM
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Hi Leslie,
We went with KE Adventure out of the UK. This company seems to specialize in more active trips. I'm not sure what you are looking for but these trips stress the active portion more than cultural interaction. But I will say that these types of trips often get you more real interaction than a bus tour or similar.
Our trip was a winter climb of Mt Toubkal - tallest in the Atlas. We stayed at a hut with limited electricity. I don't think there was running water. No flush toilets. 20+ folks to a room. This is typical for a climb of this type.
The hut was full of folks from France and Spain on skiing holiday where they carry their skis to the mountain top and ski down. No lifts. Very rustic and basic.
After 4 days of the rustic and basic, my girlfriend and I hiked out on our own and found the most decadent riad in Marrakesh and lounged for a few days. It was magic.
KE did a great job, just be aware that many of their trips are more rugged than most.
We went with KE Adventure out of the UK. This company seems to specialize in more active trips. I'm not sure what you are looking for but these trips stress the active portion more than cultural interaction. But I will say that these types of trips often get you more real interaction than a bus tour or similar.
Our trip was a winter climb of Mt Toubkal - tallest in the Atlas. We stayed at a hut with limited electricity. I don't think there was running water. No flush toilets. 20+ folks to a room. This is typical for a climb of this type.
The hut was full of folks from France and Spain on skiing holiday where they carry their skis to the mountain top and ski down. No lifts. Very rustic and basic.
After 4 days of the rustic and basic, my girlfriend and I hiked out on our own and found the most decadent riad in Marrakesh and lounged for a few days. It was magic.
KE did a great job, just be aware that many of their trips are more rugged than most.
Aug 3rd, 2009, 03:48 PM
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Queenie,
Your trip was over 2 years ago but I throughly enjoyed reading it now. How lucky to stumble on your consisely written and interesting report. Thank you.
You reminded me of my own trip to Jordan in 2005 and the marvellous places to see, things to do and warm people to meet. I too had special experiences with Jordanian school children. I ended up giving an impromptu geography lesson to an energetic group of grade 5s in the ruins of Jerash at the urging of their chaperone - and I'm not even a teacher ! I agree completely with you comments about bobbing in the dead sea, the hammams and the beauty of Wadi Rum.
Have you been adventuring anywhere else since then ? This adventurer would love to read about it.
Cheers,
M.
Your trip was over 2 years ago but I throughly enjoyed reading it now. How lucky to stumble on your consisely written and interesting report. Thank you.
You reminded me of my own trip to Jordan in 2005 and the marvellous places to see, things to do and warm people to meet. I too had special experiences with Jordanian school children. I ended up giving an impromptu geography lesson to an energetic group of grade 5s in the ruins of Jerash at the urging of their chaperone - and I'm not even a teacher ! I agree completely with you comments about bobbing in the dead sea, the hammams and the beauty of Wadi Rum.
Have you been adventuring anywhere else since then ? This adventurer would love to read about it.
Cheers,
M.
