Promised boring Kenya trip report

Old Dec 13th, 2009, 08:35 PM
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Promised boring Kenya trip report

I got back from a nine day visit to the Greater Mara area last week. I will post a trip report together with the pictures once they are ready, although there is very little to report this time as we flew Bangkok to Nairobi and then directly to the Mara, returning the same way. All our time was spent at Kicheche Mara (Main) Camp some 50 or more kilometers north of the reserve’s western gates, but we went into the reserve twice and visited the Olare Orok Conservancy once (where we stayed last year at Kicheche Bush Camp). Apart from that we stayed around Kicheche, although that covers quite a large area both in and outside areas designated as conservancies .

Of course we really enjoyed it, and of course we had a sighting or two worth seeing, although no zorillas, pangolins or wild dogs this time and only one leopard (that is actually unusual given that the Kicheche area is quite well known for sightings). We also went to the weekly market in Aitong, which was fun, and “climbed” a hill in a Landcruiser to have breakfast on top, which was a fabulous experience when we weren’t going backwards! Lots of young animals and mating lions, just as advertised.

Before the photos-cum-report I thought I’d add a few notes on the situation in the area. Note this applies only to the beginning of December 2009, and no generalizations are intended. Sources of information are my own eyes and what reliable local sources told me when sober, so while some of it may in the end be wrong, I believe it.
The drought has eased temporarily in many parts of the country but the rains are generally just decent and quite normal for November and early December, and certainly nothing special. Areas like the Mara are going to be back to drought soon if there is not more rain in December. As of the beginning of December the Talek and Mara rivers had less water in them than in September 2008. Seasonal waterholes frequently had little or no water, although because rain falls heavily in very small areas conditions differ quite markedly within a small range. The surrounding hills were getting good rainfall, for example. When we arrived there were very few cattle as they had been taken far away to graze where the rainfall had been better. However, a lot of cattle returned around 1 December and there was not pasture for them in some places. As a result the conservancy areas saw increased “incursion” by herders and the reserve was full of cattle by night (although most retreated to the edges of the reserve in the early morning I even saw a single, small herd on Rhino Ridge at 11 am on December 3, although ironically that area produced the best game viewing of the whole trip that day).
There were very few tourists at all in the Greater Mara area. I had to ask if a tour group had been slaughtered by bandits unknown to me, causing mass cancellations, but it turns out November is generally quiet and this year has anyway been a little quieter than previous years. Kicheche was doing slow business itself, and it is a very popular camp. Rekero also seemed to have very few guests (long story, but we visited and had lunch and a day tent there – what a location!) and the big Fairmont Mara Safari Club near Kicheche and Serian (did you know these two are close together – I didn’t realize how close) seemed to have no more than four vehicles out a day. There was not a minibus to be seen, which would have pleased some. ;-) Note, we did not go further east in the reserve than the area just west of Intrepids/Explorer/Rekero.

Most importantly, although the buffalo herds have split up after suffering heavy losses and serious loss of condition, many hippos died and the cheetahs have never had it so tough with the splits of the Kicheche and Bila Shaka (Marsh) lion prides due to sheer force of numbers meaning there are lions everywhere, the wildlife is all doing pretty well. Sightings were regular and good, even though the small number of vehicles meant the bush telegraph was more the bush carrier pigeon in terms of time frame. Personally I didn’t mind the cattle without the tourists – it added a kind of old-time authenticity to the experience, especially as the Kicheche vehicles spend a lot of time offroad on tracks made by their own vehicles and obviously made efforts to stay away from the cattle – because the cats would do that too, rather than for aesthetic reasons. The guy on Rhino Ridge was a bit much though and I couldn’t help but have the awful thought that he might find the rest of the Ridge Pride before we did.

There are dead cows all over the place and the vultures don’t even bother to fly any more, they just walk from carcass to carcass and “perch” on the ground with overfed Steppe Eagle winter visitors who can’t believe their luck and are applying for permanent residence permits as I write.

November is a good, calculated risk time to go. We had a day of very slippy weather and a couple of thundershowers, but the weather was generally glorious and I returned home red enough to cause much mirth at work.

They weighed my camera gear at Wilson Airport and were initially not sure they would take all our luggage, but allowed us in the end. They seemed to be more sympathetic once they realized the additional weight was all camera gear and not shoes and gin. One item of luggage was then nearly transferred to Nanyuki – do check properly, even though they generally seem to do an excellent job.

I and Mrs Kimburu are now definitely Kicheche keen (I won;t go as far as "fans"). Money and effort seems to be focused most where it should – on ensuring a better game-viewing experience, and everything else is good to very good to excellent (e.g. lunch). I don’t think I have any real complaints at all. There are some informal rules and established ways of doing things that might be more flexible at times, but they are all quite intuitive to me and to be honest I barely even noticed them. I would guess that particularly demanding guests might be unpopular with the staff (mostly Maasai, who it seems to me don’t always hide their feelings behind a frozen, service-mind face very well) but they’d be unpopular with me too. All the other guests were very friendly this time too, with people (actually mostly Mrs K and Tor Frost) persuading others to stay around the fire for one more glass of wine at night.

Rekero Camp deserve a nod for not only taking us in from the wild when we were delivered to the wrong airport (around 70km wrong!) but giving us a day tent and a great lunch and then taking us back to the airstrip to meet up with the Kicheche vehicle later in the afternoon by the way Kicheche were not responsible for our flights). Dudu and her husband and John the head guide are genuinely nice and enthusiastic people and give the place a lovely atmosphere in addition to its well-known “wow!” location. That’s partially a kindness repaid, but every word is true- I was impressed and so was Mrs K.

My thoughts are no longer linking together so maybe I should leave it there until I see what ends up under the photos. I visited almost every spot of the whole western greater Mara area and many spots twice, have news on all the “stars” if you can’t wait for Jackson Thingummyjig to start his blog up again, and heard some gossip that may or may not be true, even since I came back.
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Old Dec 13th, 2009, 09:41 PM
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Welcome back to you and Mrs. K! And thank you. I have trouble falling asleep and this dull report may help me get much-needed zzz's before my Monday morning alarm.

Rather concerning about the rains.

Looking forward to more.
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Old Dec 14th, 2009, 04:37 AM
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Great report on the essentials regarding the drought, the camp and the sightings/drives!

To me it's no wonder that the greater Mara remains quite considering the huge increase in rates plus the reserve and conservancy fees making it slightly more favourable than e.g. Londolozi/South Africa (same season, yet more upmarket).

Maybe Kenya is going to "learn" a lesson and particularly camps should come to terms with their rates. Kicheche hopefully also re-considers its rates which have almost doubled within the last 3 years!

I am puzzled that you don't mention SUPUU, the almost resident leopardes which raises cubs in the lugga close to Kicheche Mara camp. Hopefully that cat has just changed location.

I am going to the Mara in Feb and you8r resport is a great appetizer

Welcome back to you and yours!

SV
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Old Dec 14th, 2009, 04:45 AM
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Welcome back and glad it was another great trip for you and Mrs K. Can't wait to see the pictures.

Joyce
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Old Dec 14th, 2009, 06:33 AM
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Supuu was nowhere to be seen the whole time, Spassvogel. Nor the male leopard nearby. And we looked... and looked... and looked.... Yes, it is getting too expensive (but we still go don't we!). The rates probably do have an impact, but the weakness of the pound is surely a factor too. Places are pretty full over Christmas and New Year apparently.
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Old Dec 14th, 2009, 06:44 AM
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Thany you Joyce (Julius says hi to you and Patty and the 'boys' - we visited him in Nairobi) and glad to be of assistance Leely!
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Old Dec 14th, 2009, 08:33 AM
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THX kimburu for the rather worrying news regarding Supuu. I sincerely hope she just changed location as she was very much penetrated (and the cubs) by LOADS of cars. Hopefully she found a good place to raise her litters.

We have wonderful Supuu pics and one has been painted from a pic by www.elgarabe.co.za. Its awesome.

And YES - we still go ;-) Addiction and these guys know how to exploit it ;-)

Great festive season!

SV
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Old Dec 14th, 2009, 10:29 AM
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Welcome back! Do you mean Kicheche and Serian are close? I thought Serian was approx 9 miles to the southwest of Kicheche Main, is that not correct? Looking forward to more.
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Old Dec 14th, 2009, 02:48 PM
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Kimburu,

thanks for this interesting introduction - look forward to the photos.

Cheers,


Pol
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Old Dec 14th, 2009, 03:12 PM
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Kicheche and Serian close? Also Safari Club!

Strange to see someone express this, especially when so many visitors bitch bitch bitch "it was such a long drive." when I find the distances just fine. Besides, there's game viewing many (not all) places along the way.

From Saruni which is 20/min north of Kicheche it took me about 1.5/hrs to Serian. Close enough when it comes to distances in Afree-kah!

Look forward to balance of report and photos.
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Old Dec 14th, 2009, 04:47 PM
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Oops, I meant Saruni of course - not Serian... duh! Thanks Patty and Sandi. Is it really 20 minutes? Left, left again and then second on the right, no? (well, perhaps third). You are absolutely right, Sandi - some may not feel like I did. And I guess that's my point - you look on the map and it all looks one way, but once on the ground it feels completely another. Maybe it's partially that the morning game drives are 4-5 hours long, so there isn't really a time concern - we popped down to Olare Orok to take a look at the lion creche one morning as they were in a particularly open location, and made it back in plenty of time for lunch without any drama or rush. We considered Safari Club slightly noisy neighbours while we were there. Even to actual Serian is a nice little drive and indeed lots and lots to see - could go for lunch
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Old Dec 14th, 2009, 05:00 PM
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Thanks and not boring at all!
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Old Dec 15th, 2009, 07:57 AM
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Considering the fact that I take my watch off when arriving Africa and especially when on safari, times are mostly guestimates, looking at the sun to figure out how long it took to get from place to place. Sure I have the watch in my pocket if I need exact, but rarely check it.

As there aren't any direct roads between Saruni and Richards - gotta go south then cut across and north - straight lines A to B, don't work. That drive was about 30/min and we could see (or passed) Kicheche on the way. And from Saruni to Safari Club again used a somewhat circuitous route but still a relatively short drive.

Time doesn't mean much for my when on safari.
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Old Dec 15th, 2009, 04:29 PM
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Ho hum
Ho hum



Any boring photos?
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Old Dec 15th, 2009, 04:53 PM
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Now that I think about it, did you never finish your last boring report? I remember the photo essay but thought we were going to get a few more descriptions.

Why did you choose Kicheche rather than Kicheche Bush this time?
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Old Dec 15th, 2009, 05:00 PM
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Leely, you are asking uncomfortable questions. I thought I finished it, but I avoid checking that just in case it is not true. Anyway, it is almost a tradition that the end of my trips remains a mystery. ;-)

Kicheche Bush was closed for the short rains. We were booked there over Christmas but then my wife's leave request was refused and she could only get the beginning of December.
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Old Dec 15th, 2009, 05:04 PM
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@Lynn.... lots of boring photos, and yes, I know I should be posting some by now. I'm going to try to get enough to cover the trip this week and do the write up this weekend.
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Old Dec 15th, 2009, 06:57 PM
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Liked the "not boring", boring report. Waiting with atravelynn for the boring photos. Thanks.
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Old Dec 15th, 2009, 07:32 PM
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I'm getting bored waiting.
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Old Dec 15th, 2009, 07:36 PM
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I am reading and waiting but quietly
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