Morocco trip report
Jan 10th, 2007, 01:04 PM
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Morocco trip report
planned our trip using the generous input from fodors contributors and thought I would post my report in gratitude.
We (husband and 8 year old son) just returned from a fabulous trip to Morocco and Spain (from West coast of US). We flew to Madrid, stayed a night and then flew to Marrakesh directly. We booked all of our stays (where available, in riads) and the best decision we ever made was to hire a guide, car and driver for the duration of the trip. The guide and driver were amazing people, knowledgeble, efficient, kind and trustworthy. More about them later but suffice it to say that by the end of the trip, we had difficulty in saying goodbye and a friendship was forged for a long time to come. We covered a lot of ground and withouth the car and guide it would have been impossible, especially in light of the language problem for us (neither speak Arabic or French)and just the logistics of Morocco.
Marrakesh: We stayed at the Dar Les Cigognes (house of Storks) riad (our stay coincided with Christmas) and I have never experienced a stay such as this in my life. The service was so gracious that by the end of it all we felt we were leaving friends. The manager of the Riad, Olaf was simply the most hospitable person we had met. The Christmas dinner we shared with the other guests was fabulous with great food and wonderful conversation of well travelled people. Olaf and his staff helped Santa surprise our son with a gift which was really unexpected. We had a suite which was great with a little sitting room and fireplace (all rooms in riads are small compared to what we are used to in the US - somewhat narrow and long) but with so much ambiance. I highly recommend staying in Riads over hotels and in Marrakesh I recommend this riad in particular.
We ate one night at the Toubkal restaurant and the food was the best we ate anywhere in Morocco. Just amazing. Just make sure you do not eat breakfast or lunch when you dine there. 9 course meals to die for in a setting that is just fabulous.
Marrakesh was okay but really the best part was the day trip we took to Imlil and the Kasbah Toubkal. Breathtaking surroundings (snow covered mountains). We stopped at Hotel Tamador (sir Richard Branson's resort) and found it very aloof and cold.
We then travelled to Skoura and stayed at the Jardin de Skoura a little riad owned by a French lady who has made it into a piece of paradise. I only wish we had stayed longer (great place to spend a few days there in warmer months). We drove through amazing terrain (constantly changing) through Ourzazate (sp) the gorges (many other places) and finally to Merzouga.
The highlight of our trip was our night in the Sahara desert (very cold), all arranged in advance by our guide, Rachid, who is a native of the area. We arrived later than we anticipated after sunset. I will never forget riding our camels in light of the half moon under a spectacular starry sky to the encampment. Dinner, a roaring fire under the stars, music and singing into the night and finally sleep in a clean warm bed that I did not really expect. We work up at dawn and watched the sun rise over the dunes which we had only seen by the light of the moon. We went on another camel ride into the Sahara in the morning and then the most amazing breakfast set on a low table facing the dunes. It was really cold and physically hard but it was truly a spiritual experience that we will never forget.
We stayed one night at Kasbah Derkoah which was simply horrible. The rooms were delapidated, and nearly everything we used was broken. WE were staying in the best room they had. Although the dinner was good, nothing else was acceptable. Stay at Kasbah Timbactou (I think that is the name) in Merzouga if you have to.
We then drove to Fez (amazing terrain again, totally different to what we had seen before). We liked Fez better in every way, the souks, the medina, the city. Very nice. We stayed at Riad Fez which was simply astonishingly beautiful, however, with the exception of Cezarine (I think) the staff and service was below average.
We made a few day trips to Meknes and Volubilis which were really worthwhile and then onto Chefchoan via the rif mountains and Tangier for departure via ferry to Spain (tarifa)onto Seville. Chefchoan is like a fairy tale town. Don't miss it if you can.
The trip was 10 days long and very exhausting since we covered a lot of ground. Everyday of these 10 days we spent with our driver and guide Rachid and despite the rigors of travel, they were always fun, informative and gracious. I looked long and hard for a guide in Morocco before we left. I got some feedback from some fellow fodor travellors and settled on hiring Rachid, after I always heard back from him promptly via email and noted his excellent English. He was always punctual, patient, informative and went way way out of his way in being a guide. By the end of the trip, he was family along with his driver, youssef, with his amazing sense of humor. Rachid's email is ([email protected])
There is so much more. Feel free to ask for any other details I may have missed. If you are going to Morocco, happy travels in one of the most beautiful countries I have ever travelled to.
PS after Morocco, Seville which is a beautiful city was really a disappointment.
We (husband and 8 year old son) just returned from a fabulous trip to Morocco and Spain (from West coast of US). We flew to Madrid, stayed a night and then flew to Marrakesh directly. We booked all of our stays (where available, in riads) and the best decision we ever made was to hire a guide, car and driver for the duration of the trip. The guide and driver were amazing people, knowledgeble, efficient, kind and trustworthy. More about them later but suffice it to say that by the end of the trip, we had difficulty in saying goodbye and a friendship was forged for a long time to come. We covered a lot of ground and withouth the car and guide it would have been impossible, especially in light of the language problem for us (neither speak Arabic or French)and just the logistics of Morocco.
Marrakesh: We stayed at the Dar Les Cigognes (house of Storks) riad (our stay coincided with Christmas) and I have never experienced a stay such as this in my life. The service was so gracious that by the end of it all we felt we were leaving friends. The manager of the Riad, Olaf was simply the most hospitable person we had met. The Christmas dinner we shared with the other guests was fabulous with great food and wonderful conversation of well travelled people. Olaf and his staff helped Santa surprise our son with a gift which was really unexpected. We had a suite which was great with a little sitting room and fireplace (all rooms in riads are small compared to what we are used to in the US - somewhat narrow and long) but with so much ambiance. I highly recommend staying in Riads over hotels and in Marrakesh I recommend this riad in particular.
We ate one night at the Toubkal restaurant and the food was the best we ate anywhere in Morocco. Just amazing. Just make sure you do not eat breakfast or lunch when you dine there. 9 course meals to die for in a setting that is just fabulous.
Marrakesh was okay but really the best part was the day trip we took to Imlil and the Kasbah Toubkal. Breathtaking surroundings (snow covered mountains). We stopped at Hotel Tamador (sir Richard Branson's resort) and found it very aloof and cold.
We then travelled to Skoura and stayed at the Jardin de Skoura a little riad owned by a French lady who has made it into a piece of paradise. I only wish we had stayed longer (great place to spend a few days there in warmer months). We drove through amazing terrain (constantly changing) through Ourzazate (sp) the gorges (many other places) and finally to Merzouga.
The highlight of our trip was our night in the Sahara desert (very cold), all arranged in advance by our guide, Rachid, who is a native of the area. We arrived later than we anticipated after sunset. I will never forget riding our camels in light of the half moon under a spectacular starry sky to the encampment. Dinner, a roaring fire under the stars, music and singing into the night and finally sleep in a clean warm bed that I did not really expect. We work up at dawn and watched the sun rise over the dunes which we had only seen by the light of the moon. We went on another camel ride into the Sahara in the morning and then the most amazing breakfast set on a low table facing the dunes. It was really cold and physically hard but it was truly a spiritual experience that we will never forget.
We stayed one night at Kasbah Derkoah which was simply horrible. The rooms were delapidated, and nearly everything we used was broken. WE were staying in the best room they had. Although the dinner was good, nothing else was acceptable. Stay at Kasbah Timbactou (I think that is the name) in Merzouga if you have to.
We then drove to Fez (amazing terrain again, totally different to what we had seen before). We liked Fez better in every way, the souks, the medina, the city. Very nice. We stayed at Riad Fez which was simply astonishingly beautiful, however, with the exception of Cezarine (I think) the staff and service was below average.
We made a few day trips to Meknes and Volubilis which were really worthwhile and then onto Chefchoan via the rif mountains and Tangier for departure via ferry to Spain (tarifa)onto Seville. Chefchoan is like a fairy tale town. Don't miss it if you can.
The trip was 10 days long and very exhausting since we covered a lot of ground. Everyday of these 10 days we spent with our driver and guide Rachid and despite the rigors of travel, they were always fun, informative and gracious. I looked long and hard for a guide in Morocco before we left. I got some feedback from some fellow fodor travellors and settled on hiring Rachid, after I always heard back from him promptly via email and noted his excellent English. He was always punctual, patient, informative and went way way out of his way in being a guide. By the end of the trip, he was family along with his driver, youssef, with his amazing sense of humor. Rachid's email is ([email protected])
There is so much more. Feel free to ask for any other details I may have missed. If you are going to Morocco, happy travels in one of the most beautiful countries I have ever travelled to.
PS after Morocco, Seville which is a beautiful city was really a disappointment.
Jan 11th, 2007, 05:01 AM
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Winter is very cold in Morocco but we loved it because the terrain was so beautiful with the snow. But what we heard was that April is the best time to visit, not too cold or hot yet and lots of greenery.
Feb 16th, 2007, 09:47 AM
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Hello Monsoon99,
This was just magical to read! I am curious about the reactions of your 8 year old son. What a fabulous opportunity for a child to see the world! I hope you read this again and give us some of his reactions to things!
Thank you.
Tango
This was just magical to read! I am curious about the reactions of your 8 year old son. What a fabulous opportunity for a child to see the world! I hope you read this again and give us some of his reactions to things!
Thank you.
Tango
Mar 13th, 2007, 07:51 PM
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Thanks for posting a report. I've made the decison to go to Morocco this September.
One question - and excuse me if i sound a bit dim. The Toubkal restaurant you mentioned. Is that at the Kasbah du Toubkal or in Marrakech proper?
http://www.kasbahdutoubkal.com/
Also - if anyone is interested:
http://www.lescigognes.com/
Once again - thanks.
One question - and excuse me if i sound a bit dim. The Toubkal restaurant you mentioned. Is that at the Kasbah du Toubkal or in Marrakech proper?
http://www.kasbahdutoubkal.com/
Also - if anyone is interested:
http://www.lescigognes.com/
Once again - thanks.
May 8th, 2007, 01:45 PM
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Thanks for this great trip description, and for the recommendation for Rashid. I have contacted him and am trying to set up my own trip this September.
Could I ask the rate you paid for his services - guide, car and driver?
Thanks
Could I ask the rate you paid for his services - guide, car and driver?
Thanks
Aug 22nd, 2007, 04:00 PM
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Hello- Thanks so much for such a great, detailed report. I am planning a similar trip from California and would be interested in hearing about the flight options you selected- connections, etc. I have contacted Rachid for my trip in November as well.
Oct 29th, 2007, 10:30 AM
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Sorry that I have not been back to this thread in a while. Some of the questioners have already left for Morroco but I thought I would post some responses for future users.
Tango: We learned so much from my son on this trip. He was only 8 but he was always curious, happy and totally into new things and the many rich experiences that is Morocco. He loved, loved, loved the camel ride into the desert. He remembers each aspect of the trip so fondly (he even tried the body scrub in a hamam) and continues to correspond with Rashid to this day.
Carta Pisana: The restaurnt (Toubkal restaurant) is in Marrakesh itself. Not to be missed. Kasbah de Toubkal is in imlil which is a day trip from Marrakesh (also a fascinating place to visit).
As far as the cost of driver and guide, I am going to have to go back and look at what we paid and will post it. Would like to hear other people's experiences with Rashid.
Tango: We learned so much from my son on this trip. He was only 8 but he was always curious, happy and totally into new things and the many rich experiences that is Morocco. He loved, loved, loved the camel ride into the desert. He remembers each aspect of the trip so fondly (he even tried the body scrub in a hamam) and continues to correspond with Rashid to this day.
Carta Pisana: The restaurnt (Toubkal restaurant) is in Marrakesh itself. Not to be missed. Kasbah de Toubkal is in imlil which is a day trip from Marrakesh (also a fascinating place to visit).
As far as the cost of driver and guide, I am going to have to go back and look at what we paid and will post it. Would like to hear other people's experiences with Rashid.
Nov 13th, 2007, 11:14 AM
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Can someone tell me more about Imlil? We were there 27 years ago (we drove from Marrakech). At the time, most of the road there was a dirt road. Upon arrival, all there was was the mountain and a store, which read, in English, "Shopping Center". They kept their Cokes cold in the stream out back. You could take a tour into the mountains, or just hang out. A guy came by while we were hanging out, selling "stuff" -- we basically bought everything he had -- bracelets and knives (in the day when you could bring the knife home without a problem). They were supposedly all silver, but we doubted it then and never have checked!
So, what is Imlil like 27 years since we were there (we may be back in 2008)?
So, what is Imlil like 27 years since we were there (we may be back in 2008)?
