Masai Mara Update: Lodges and such
Jan 21st, 2007, 09:34 AM
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Masai Mara Update: Lodges and such
I visit the Maasai Mara at least twice a year. It is a favorite of mine and after all these years I thought I knew it rather well – until our visit in mid December 2006!
The rains were incredible; it rained every day for 10 days during our stay! Rivers were impassable, driving tracks became rivers, roads became mud traps. In fact, we were told NOT to use the roads in the Mara Triangle towards the Serena; according to the rangers they could fine us if we use any wet stretch of road! They were protecting the main roads from destruction. So we ended up off-roading in unexpected places; causing even longer delays and rather scary moments as we ploughed through water-logged terrain with no sense of how deep the water was!
In the midst of our adventures, I would often catch myself just looking off into the distance across the magnificently green Mara eco-system and knew that I could never I again claim that I know this place. It is always changing, regenerating and adapting itself to the forces of nature.
We were just temporary guests in a chance meeting with an unnatural occurrence. Just a few months ago animals were dying of thirst – now life was abundant and the green landscape looked new and inviting; a reminder for us to disregard our past experiences and premonitions and to keep an open mind about the places we were about to visit.
And so, slipping and sliding, we began our drive from Siana Springs Airstrip to Ol Seki – a camp that is rarely mentioned in Masai Mara conversations! That is a shame.
OL Seki Tented Camp - http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/OlSekiMara.htm
The river between Ol Seki and Koiyaki Airstrip was flooding so we drove into the Mara at Sekenani Gate and out at Talek Gate before turning north to Ol Seki. It is mostly uphill from Talek so the 2-hour drive was tough in the pouring rain. Near Ol Seki we saw many animals – giraffe, wildebeest, zebra, eland, gazelles, and many topis on the anthills which were now islands in the water!
At Ol Seki we were welcomed like old friends even though it was our first visit. Immediately we felt at home. The managers and their team were warm and engaging – it took almost an hour before we left the lounge for our tent!
Our notes –
The owner was not there but we loved her managers and staff – it was hard to leave.
At Shompole we felt somewhat invisible and were reserved but Ol Seki brought out the best in us. We spent many glorious hours in the lounge talking to the staff. They were interested in us and we were keen to learn about the camp, its people and the activities.
The views are great and the library/lounge and dining tents are very tastefully furnished. The design is modern yet practical – with a luxurious feel.
We appreciated to be told the meal menus and to be asked if it’s OK! During our stay the clients dined together at a large dining table. Private meals are no problem.
The tents are large and far apart so privacy is not a problem. I loved the big chest where I could store all our cameras, computer and valuables while strolling around camp. The tents are white and round and the sides can be opened for a $180 degree view if you want! A great design. The bathroom areas have enough space for two people to spread out and there was plenty of rack space to store one’s toiletries. I loved the plugs near the bed to charge all our devices!
They have interesting walks around camp. There are caves and other scenic areas to visit. Since the camp is on a hill you have beautiful views in most directions.
The game viewing near camp was splendid – at night we heard lion, hyena, zebra, elephant and baboon. This was most surprising to me. The area around Ol Seki is void of other vehicles yet we saw more animals than expected. I will visit again in September to see what it is like in dry season but when there is some water around I was impressed with Ol Seki wildlife.
Ol Seki is an underrated camp with a beautiful design, good wildlife away from the crowds, great views, wonderful food and very friendly staff. It has a personal warmth factor that money cannot buy – some lodges/camps have it and others don’t. Highly recommended.
To be continued…
BTW, I plan to provide only highlights and only of places with very few mentions around here and the internet in general! I don't have the patience to write detailed trip reports describing every minute of our month in East Africa!
The rains were incredible; it rained every day for 10 days during our stay! Rivers were impassable, driving tracks became rivers, roads became mud traps. In fact, we were told NOT to use the roads in the Mara Triangle towards the Serena; according to the rangers they could fine us if we use any wet stretch of road! They were protecting the main roads from destruction. So we ended up off-roading in unexpected places; causing even longer delays and rather scary moments as we ploughed through water-logged terrain with no sense of how deep the water was!
In the midst of our adventures, I would often catch myself just looking off into the distance across the magnificently green Mara eco-system and knew that I could never I again claim that I know this place. It is always changing, regenerating and adapting itself to the forces of nature.
We were just temporary guests in a chance meeting with an unnatural occurrence. Just a few months ago animals were dying of thirst – now life was abundant and the green landscape looked new and inviting; a reminder for us to disregard our past experiences and premonitions and to keep an open mind about the places we were about to visit.
And so, slipping and sliding, we began our drive from Siana Springs Airstrip to Ol Seki – a camp that is rarely mentioned in Masai Mara conversations! That is a shame.
OL Seki Tented Camp - http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/OlSekiMara.htm
The river between Ol Seki and Koiyaki Airstrip was flooding so we drove into the Mara at Sekenani Gate and out at Talek Gate before turning north to Ol Seki. It is mostly uphill from Talek so the 2-hour drive was tough in the pouring rain. Near Ol Seki we saw many animals – giraffe, wildebeest, zebra, eland, gazelles, and many topis on the anthills which were now islands in the water!
At Ol Seki we were welcomed like old friends even though it was our first visit. Immediately we felt at home. The managers and their team were warm and engaging – it took almost an hour before we left the lounge for our tent!
Our notes –
The owner was not there but we loved her managers and staff – it was hard to leave.
At Shompole we felt somewhat invisible and were reserved but Ol Seki brought out the best in us. We spent many glorious hours in the lounge talking to the staff. They were interested in us and we were keen to learn about the camp, its people and the activities.
The views are great and the library/lounge and dining tents are very tastefully furnished. The design is modern yet practical – with a luxurious feel.
We appreciated to be told the meal menus and to be asked if it’s OK! During our stay the clients dined together at a large dining table. Private meals are no problem.
The tents are large and far apart so privacy is not a problem. I loved the big chest where I could store all our cameras, computer and valuables while strolling around camp. The tents are white and round and the sides can be opened for a $180 degree view if you want! A great design. The bathroom areas have enough space for two people to spread out and there was plenty of rack space to store one’s toiletries. I loved the plugs near the bed to charge all our devices!
They have interesting walks around camp. There are caves and other scenic areas to visit. Since the camp is on a hill you have beautiful views in most directions.
The game viewing near camp was splendid – at night we heard lion, hyena, zebra, elephant and baboon. This was most surprising to me. The area around Ol Seki is void of other vehicles yet we saw more animals than expected. I will visit again in September to see what it is like in dry season but when there is some water around I was impressed with Ol Seki wildlife.
Ol Seki is an underrated camp with a beautiful design, good wildlife away from the crowds, great views, wonderful food and very friendly staff. It has a personal warmth factor that money cannot buy – some lodges/camps have it and others don’t. Highly recommended.
To be continued…
BTW, I plan to provide only highlights and only of places with very few mentions around here and the internet in general! I don't have the patience to write detailed trip reports describing every minute of our month in East Africa!
Jan 21st, 2007, 12:34 PM
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Serian Camp - http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/serian.htm
OK, we were stuck in a rising river at 6pm in Olare Orok Conservancy and as luck would have it one of Serian’s employees lived in the Maasai Engang nearby! We told him we were on our way to Serian and he called the camp on our behalf to describe our location and 45 minutes later they showed up to pull us out!
By the time we freed ourselves it was dark, so we followed the Serian car to camp. Along the way (using headlights only) we saw an amazing amount of wildlife! Elephant, hyena, different small cats and plenty of hoofed animals. Quite a productive night drive!
We were cold and wet when we arrived at Serian. We walked in and with drinks in hand we settled in front of this great fire burning in the lounge. Another warm welcome that really set the tone for our wonderful stay there!
Our Notes: -
Again, the owner was not in camp during our visit but the crew did not miss a beat!
The first thing that struck us (apart from the usual friendliness), was the pride of the staff about their camp. I think they realize they have something special with Serian and it shows – even just in the way we were shown our tent and the camp facilities. They took great care to ensure we don’t lack anything!
We have plenty of electronic equipment and could not charge these in our tents; but our butler took great care to make sure everything got charged in the library near the dining room.
Our tent #3 is on the front row on the banks of the Mara River. Tents 5, 7 and 8 are set higher and further away from the river. Tent 6 is the honeymoon tent and the vegetation provides cover from the walkways behind.
Each tent is really a bed with mossie net, surrounded by the tent sides with limited space for walking around inside. Much smaller than Ol Seki and more traditional in style.
The bathroom area is separate (in our case about 20-25 feet away) connected with a semi-covered walkway. The tub has a great view of the Mara. Flushing toilet and twin wash basins complete the very clever and pretty design.
The Mara was flooding so we heard no night sounds except the water and some muffled hippo noises. It was like sleeping next to the ocean – and we both slept very well with the soothing sounds of the river.
The lounge and dining room are under the same roof although dining can be set up anywhere on the property if the weather allows it! The fire in the lounge is a winner! It sets a wonderful atmosphere.
The patio between the lounge and the library is where we had breakfast under the blue morning skies (which clouded over every day in the afternoon before the downpours began).
Flycamping is very popular at Serian but the rains put paid to our ambitions! They have rights on the land across the river and clients often spend a night in the wild with no-one else in sight (after crossing the river with ropes!). Serian are thinking of placing a few tents on that side in the future.
Meals were shared near the nice fire in the lounge but private dinners are no problem. We loved the food – again we were told what’s on each menu in case we wanted something different.
Each group of clients booking together gets their own open vehicle at Serian! This is a huge plus. Combined with very knowledgeable local Maasai guides, we were ensured of the highest quality guiding.
Serian has a simple, yet captivating approach. We sensed that these guys know what they are talking about in terms of a Masai Mara safari. They are very serious about their operation and providing the best possible experience. It is without a doubt a very professional safari outfit – yet the atmosphere is warm and genuine with no traces of arrogance. We loved Serian.
OK, we were stuck in a rising river at 6pm in Olare Orok Conservancy and as luck would have it one of Serian’s employees lived in the Maasai Engang nearby! We told him we were on our way to Serian and he called the camp on our behalf to describe our location and 45 minutes later they showed up to pull us out!
By the time we freed ourselves it was dark, so we followed the Serian car to camp. Along the way (using headlights only) we saw an amazing amount of wildlife! Elephant, hyena, different small cats and plenty of hoofed animals. Quite a productive night drive!
We were cold and wet when we arrived at Serian. We walked in and with drinks in hand we settled in front of this great fire burning in the lounge. Another warm welcome that really set the tone for our wonderful stay there!
Our Notes: -
Again, the owner was not in camp during our visit but the crew did not miss a beat!
The first thing that struck us (apart from the usual friendliness), was the pride of the staff about their camp. I think they realize they have something special with Serian and it shows – even just in the way we were shown our tent and the camp facilities. They took great care to ensure we don’t lack anything!
We have plenty of electronic equipment and could not charge these in our tents; but our butler took great care to make sure everything got charged in the library near the dining room.
Our tent #3 is on the front row on the banks of the Mara River. Tents 5, 7 and 8 are set higher and further away from the river. Tent 6 is the honeymoon tent and the vegetation provides cover from the walkways behind.
Each tent is really a bed with mossie net, surrounded by the tent sides with limited space for walking around inside. Much smaller than Ol Seki and more traditional in style.
The bathroom area is separate (in our case about 20-25 feet away) connected with a semi-covered walkway. The tub has a great view of the Mara. Flushing toilet and twin wash basins complete the very clever and pretty design.
The Mara was flooding so we heard no night sounds except the water and some muffled hippo noises. It was like sleeping next to the ocean – and we both slept very well with the soothing sounds of the river.
The lounge and dining room are under the same roof although dining can be set up anywhere on the property if the weather allows it! The fire in the lounge is a winner! It sets a wonderful atmosphere.
The patio between the lounge and the library is where we had breakfast under the blue morning skies (which clouded over every day in the afternoon before the downpours began).
Flycamping is very popular at Serian but the rains put paid to our ambitions! They have rights on the land across the river and clients often spend a night in the wild with no-one else in sight (after crossing the river with ropes!). Serian are thinking of placing a few tents on that side in the future.
Meals were shared near the nice fire in the lounge but private dinners are no problem. We loved the food – again we were told what’s on each menu in case we wanted something different.
Each group of clients booking together gets their own open vehicle at Serian! This is a huge plus. Combined with very knowledgeable local Maasai guides, we were ensured of the highest quality guiding.
Serian has a simple, yet captivating approach. We sensed that these guys know what they are talking about in terms of a Masai Mara safari. They are very serious about their operation and providing the best possible experience. It is without a doubt a very professional safari outfit – yet the atmosphere is warm and genuine with no traces of arrogance. We loved Serian.
Jan 21st, 2007, 12:35 PM
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My updated Maasai Mara map is here: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mar...2007Jan12b.jpg
Near Ol Seki, you will find the Koiyaki Guide School and Wilderness Camp. http://www.koiyaki.com/
We could not visit but plan to stay there in the near future. They are funded by any camps in the Mara and train local Maasai to be guides in the area they know best – the greater Mara! Carol and I both believe in using local Maasai as guides instead of guides that drive in a few times a month from Nairobi and elsewhere. The Maasai in the greater Mara is under great pressure and to help them AND the wildlife it is important to offer them alternative sources of income.
Near Ol Seki, you will find the Koiyaki Guide School and Wilderness Camp. http://www.koiyaki.com/
We could not visit but plan to stay there in the near future. They are funded by any camps in the Mara and train local Maasai to be guides in the area they know best – the greater Mara! Carol and I both believe in using local Maasai as guides instead of guides that drive in a few times a month from Nairobi and elsewhere. The Maasai in the greater Mara is under great pressure and to help them AND the wildlife it is important to offer them alternative sources of income.
Jan 21st, 2007, 12:37 PM
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Cheap camping/banda options especially near the Talek Gate
– see map http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/TalekMap1.jpg
We drove over to the Talek Bridge near the gate to see the Talek River in full flood. What a sight! I remember the Talek as a series of pools and not a rushing river! Pictures here (scroll down a bit) http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mar...araiImages.htm
For basic camping if you bring your own tent, Croccodile Camp is just fine. You can set your tent right on the river only a few hundred meters from the gate! It is basic but they have bathrooms and some water. Picture of site here: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/Crocodile.htm
If you need a banda, consider either Aruba Camp or Riverside Camp. Both offer dining areas and proper toilets. Aruba Camp is smaller with only 2 bandas if I can remember correctly. Riverside Camp looks a bit better organized with a few more bandas. Both camps offer public camping. http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/RiversideCamp.htm and http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/Arubacamp.htm
These are probably the best basic camping options in terms of location.
Inside the Reserve, just a mile from the Serena there is another public camp site that is really close to the entire Mara River system in the Triangle. Unfortunately, I always get eaten by the tsetse flies in the camp so I have a love/hate relationship with it. It has no views as it is located under a cluster of trees. Pictures here: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/SerenaPublic.htm
There are many camping options in the East near Sekenani and near the Sopa. I don’t like this part of the Mara much I have some pictures of the cheaper lodgings such as Mara Hippo. See the Mara map: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mar...2007Jan12b.jpg
Jan 21st, 2007, 06:49 PM
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Olare Orok Conservation Area Camps
In the past, I knew of Governors Bush Camp in this area and Rekero Kidogo over the last year or so. I always skipped the area by choosing to stay to the south inside the Reserve when going towards Musiara gate or when visiting David, our Maasai friend’s engang.
This time, David guided us into the heart of Olare Orok and we truly enjoyed this area that’s growing in popularity. I was told that no minivans are allowed in the Conservancy for game drives! My kind of place!
During our two days in the area we saw plenty of wildlife (no cats) although the locals all talked about several lion kills each night.
We started our adventure at the new Nyumbu Tented Camp. http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/Nyumbu.htm
While open for business, it was under construction. They were doing landscaping and upgrading to larger and newer tents as my pictures show. The camp is different in the sense that it is out in the open which allows for great views over the landscape. On the other hand you know that you are in a tented camp since you can see the whole camp from any point!
I am still a bit concerned about the permanent structures they were putting in place (pathways, foundations, etc). I was under the impression that no new permanent structures were allowed in the conservancies but who knows.
Nevertheless, the camp staff was very friendly and interesting. They have a great location with easy access into the Mara Reserve and the newer tents are very nice – and the views are wonderful.
It looks like a very good option for budget-minded tourists.
Next stop: Rekero Kidogo. http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/rekero_kidogo.htm
This camp was our main reason for visiting Olare Orok and it did not disappoint!
We loved the wildness of the area. It is bush country but not thick brush. One can see several hundred yards in all directions through the trees. Game viewing is good and there are many scenic walks in the vicinity.
The thing we liked most about this camp is the distances between the tents! The outside tents were quite far from the mess tent. Out there, one feels the remoteness of the bush. Walking between the tents felt like a bush walk. At night, it is thrilling. It is bush camping at its finest – as it should be!
The mess tent is much like the main Rekero Camp. The sleeping tents felt slightly smaller than main Rekero but lacked nothing as can be seen from our pictures!
Combing Rekero and Kidogo during a weeklong visit top the Mara will be ideal!
Next Stop: Porini Lion Camp: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/porinilion.htm
As we drove into the camp area, I immediately recognized a towering figure waiting to meet us near the mess tent! It was an old friend of mine who used to manage Leleshwa Camp! This made us feel at home and we really enjoyed our visit to this new camp!
Porini Lion Camp looks different and works differently than the other camps in the area!
First of all, the tents are grayish with black netting and large window openings – a stylish mix that’s pleasant on the eye! The bright-colored pillows and cushions contrasted beautifully and the end-result is a very surprising design.
The sleeping tents are roomy and bright inside; Ikea-like I thought at the time. Very neat and precise! Simple yet stylish and pleasant!
About 300 meters yards away, there was a smaller version of the same camp; smaller tents of a more standard design. We were told those were for budget-minded clients looking for value safaris. It was interesting to see a camp with business-class and steerage accommodations on the same premises!
In the past, I knew of Governors Bush Camp in this area and Rekero Kidogo over the last year or so. I always skipped the area by choosing to stay to the south inside the Reserve when going towards Musiara gate or when visiting David, our Maasai friend’s engang.
This time, David guided us into the heart of Olare Orok and we truly enjoyed this area that’s growing in popularity. I was told that no minivans are allowed in the Conservancy for game drives! My kind of place!
During our two days in the area we saw plenty of wildlife (no cats) although the locals all talked about several lion kills each night.
We started our adventure at the new Nyumbu Tented Camp. http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/Nyumbu.htm
While open for business, it was under construction. They were doing landscaping and upgrading to larger and newer tents as my pictures show. The camp is different in the sense that it is out in the open which allows for great views over the landscape. On the other hand you know that you are in a tented camp since you can see the whole camp from any point!
I am still a bit concerned about the permanent structures they were putting in place (pathways, foundations, etc). I was under the impression that no new permanent structures were allowed in the conservancies but who knows.
Nevertheless, the camp staff was very friendly and interesting. They have a great location with easy access into the Mara Reserve and the newer tents are very nice – and the views are wonderful.
It looks like a very good option for budget-minded tourists.
Next stop: Rekero Kidogo. http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/rekero_kidogo.htm
This camp was our main reason for visiting Olare Orok and it did not disappoint!
We loved the wildness of the area. It is bush country but not thick brush. One can see several hundred yards in all directions through the trees. Game viewing is good and there are many scenic walks in the vicinity.
The thing we liked most about this camp is the distances between the tents! The outside tents were quite far from the mess tent. Out there, one feels the remoteness of the bush. Walking between the tents felt like a bush walk. At night, it is thrilling. It is bush camping at its finest – as it should be!
The mess tent is much like the main Rekero Camp. The sleeping tents felt slightly smaller than main Rekero but lacked nothing as can be seen from our pictures!
Combing Rekero and Kidogo during a weeklong visit top the Mara will be ideal!
Next Stop: Porini Lion Camp: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/porinilion.htm
As we drove into the camp area, I immediately recognized a towering figure waiting to meet us near the mess tent! It was an old friend of mine who used to manage Leleshwa Camp! This made us feel at home and we really enjoyed our visit to this new camp!
Porini Lion Camp looks different and works differently than the other camps in the area!
First of all, the tents are grayish with black netting and large window openings – a stylish mix that’s pleasant on the eye! The bright-colored pillows and cushions contrasted beautifully and the end-result is a very surprising design.
The sleeping tents are roomy and bright inside; Ikea-like I thought at the time. Very neat and precise! Simple yet stylish and pleasant!
About 300 meters yards away, there was a smaller version of the same camp; smaller tents of a more standard design. We were told those were for budget-minded clients looking for value safaris. It was interesting to see a camp with business-class and steerage accommodations on the same premises!
Jan 21st, 2007, 08:34 PM
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Eben,
Serian would be very high on my list, simply due to the private vehicle factor- with the booking!!!
What do you think the game viewing will be like during the dry the season around Serian? Also, would they do all day drives, if you requested?
Rgds,
Hari
Serian would be very high on my list, simply due to the private vehicle factor- with the booking!!!
What do you think the game viewing will be like during the dry the season around Serian? Also, would they do all day drives, if you requested?
Rgds,
Hari
Jan 21st, 2007, 10:41 PM
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Eben,
Very good review of the properties! I do not know the Mara area very well and I'm enjoying getting a better feel for it. Glad you were able to enjoy the adventure and splendor of the rains rather than let it dampen your spirits as some travelers might.
Ol Seki and Serian both sound great, my attention also perked up with the mention of open vehicles at Serian. Can you enter the Mara in the open vehicle or is its use limited to the Conservancy land. I'm not well versed on the rules but my impression was the Mara and Serengeti required closed vehicles within the National Parks.
I will definitely need to plan to visit this area in the future.
Very good review of the properties! I do not know the Mara area very well and I'm enjoying getting a better feel for it. Glad you were able to enjoy the adventure and splendor of the rains rather than let it dampen your spirits as some travelers might.
Ol Seki and Serian both sound great, my attention also perked up with the mention of open vehicles at Serian. Can you enter the Mara in the open vehicle or is its use limited to the Conservancy land. I'm not well versed on the rules but my impression was the Mara and Serengeti required closed vehicles within the National Parks.
I will definitely need to plan to visit this area in the future.
Jan 22nd, 2007, 05:30 AM
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We've be in open vehicles inside the Mara proper. Most of the small camps inside/outside use these. As well, you can drive inside the Serengeti in open vehicles, as with Nomad's, TUC, Grumeti River, Kirawira, etc. etc.
I believe, as Eben mentioned sometime back, you cannot traverse the roads to/from the reserves in open vehicles.
While you might see open vehicles on the roads of these two countries, which more than likely belong to residents who have their own set of rules/regs they can follow.
I believe, as Eben mentioned sometime back, you cannot traverse the roads to/from the reserves in open vehicles.
While you might see open vehicles on the roads of these two countries, which more than likely belong to residents who have their own set of rules/regs they can follow.
Jan 22nd, 2007, 05:47 AM
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CORRECTION – Public camping in the Mara section posted above.
Unfortunately, we cannot edit posts! I left out the public camping site at Musiara Gate – see image:
http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/MusiaraGate.jpg
The camping area is on the right in the picture near the park staff accommodations. If you camp there you have easy access to the Reserve and you will not experience many other campers but you have to be self-sufficient.
Hari - you get a private vehicle at Serian so the drive durations are up to you! There are open plains near Serian so at times the migration will spill into the area for sure. They have year-round wildlife there I am told. Anyway, it is close enough to the Rerve so even if you see nothing near camp it a short drive into the Reserve. And all the park fees (Reserve + conservancies) are inluded.
Predator - yes, no problems with open vehicles in the Greater Mara.
In Tanzania, between the parks it is frowned upon from a safety aspect and not so much on a legal basis - frankly trying to figure out what is illegal there is almost impossible! Case in point, I believe CCAfrica transport their clients in open vehicles over public roads from Manyara Airstrip to Tree Camp.
Open vehicles rarely have seat belts and many don't have roll bars. Police know that these are dangerous vehicles and may pull them over them for this reason.
It is also frowned upon to transport camp staff or mountain porters in the back of pickup trucks for the same reasons.
Unfortunately, we cannot edit posts! I left out the public camping site at Musiara Gate – see image:
http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/MusiaraGate.jpg
The camping area is on the right in the picture near the park staff accommodations. If you camp there you have easy access to the Reserve and you will not experience many other campers but you have to be self-sufficient.
Hari - you get a private vehicle at Serian so the drive durations are up to you! There are open plains near Serian so at times the migration will spill into the area for sure. They have year-round wildlife there I am told. Anyway, it is close enough to the Rerve so even if you see nothing near camp it a short drive into the Reserve. And all the park fees (Reserve + conservancies) are inluded.
Predator - yes, no problems with open vehicles in the Greater Mara.
In Tanzania, between the parks it is frowned upon from a safety aspect and not so much on a legal basis - frankly trying to figure out what is illegal there is almost impossible! Case in point, I believe CCAfrica transport their clients in open vehicles over public roads from Manyara Airstrip to Tree Camp.
Open vehicles rarely have seat belts and many don't have roll bars. Police know that these are dangerous vehicles and may pull them over them for this reason.
It is also frowned upon to transport camp staff or mountain porters in the back of pickup trucks for the same reasons.
Jan 22nd, 2007, 07:45 AM
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Next Stop: Olare Safari Camp: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/OlareSafari.htm
I have not heard of this camp so when we saw the sign we went to take a look! The first thing we saw was this huge fence about 6 feet high! The gate was open so we drove in and but saw no-one except a few builders who were working on the tents. They were constructing rather permanent-looking structures at the back of the tents – the toilet and shower areas.
I snapped some pictures while David tried to find the owner/manager but to no avail. With all the construction and no staff on hand we felt it was better to leave and to return later in 2007 when things have settled down.
The tents looked good from a distance, but we just don’t see a need for such a prominent fence. Are they protecting themselves against wildlife or humans or what? Maybe the fence is temporary while they have all the building materials lying about but I don’t think so.
A fenced camp is not for us – but to be fair I will return in Aug/Sep to take another look.
Next Stop: Offbeat Mara Camp: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/OffbeatMara.htm
The Offbeat folks are well-known in Kenya so we were exciting to see what their new camp looks like!
Unfortunately, it rained like crazy on the day of our visit. The Olare rivers were cresting and the Offbeat Camp took a bit of water in some of their tents so they were forced to relocate their sleeping tents on the day of our visit as they had clients arriving in two days!
In addition, we had a puncture and carjack problems! So while the Offbeat crew was pitching tents we were struggling with our tire! As a result we could not get any kind of feel for the camp except for a few pictures of the tents being set.
And once we crossed the river to the next camp (this is where we got horribly stuck), there was no way to return to Offbeat as that particular river was rising fast!
So, we bid them goodbye with a promise and invitation to return later this year! We certainly will.
Olare Orok – final thoughts
In the future I want to return to all these camps during dry season and visit several other camps including Governors Bush Camp, Kicheche Bush Camp, a new camp being built near Kidogo Airstrip, etc.
We were pleasantly surprised with this Conservancy. I hope they can resist more growth and I think they should look at some of the permanent structures we saw at a few camps. I like the minivan ban!
There are several traces of abandoned Maasai homesteads. Obviously, the Maasai have been asked to evacuate the Conservancy – whether they did so willingly and how many remain is unknown to me. I assume they received some compensation in one form or the other but it is hard to get straight answers when asking specific questions!
The landscape is pretty with hills and valleys and sections of open plains surrounded by trees. Some Olare Orok pictures are at the bottom of this page: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mar...araiImages.htm
I have not heard of this camp so when we saw the sign we went to take a look! The first thing we saw was this huge fence about 6 feet high! The gate was open so we drove in and but saw no-one except a few builders who were working on the tents. They were constructing rather permanent-looking structures at the back of the tents – the toilet and shower areas.
I snapped some pictures while David tried to find the owner/manager but to no avail. With all the construction and no staff on hand we felt it was better to leave and to return later in 2007 when things have settled down.
The tents looked good from a distance, but we just don’t see a need for such a prominent fence. Are they protecting themselves against wildlife or humans or what? Maybe the fence is temporary while they have all the building materials lying about but I don’t think so.
A fenced camp is not for us – but to be fair I will return in Aug/Sep to take another look.
Next Stop: Offbeat Mara Camp: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/OffbeatMara.htm
The Offbeat folks are well-known in Kenya so we were exciting to see what their new camp looks like!
Unfortunately, it rained like crazy on the day of our visit. The Olare rivers were cresting and the Offbeat Camp took a bit of water in some of their tents so they were forced to relocate their sleeping tents on the day of our visit as they had clients arriving in two days!
In addition, we had a puncture and carjack problems! So while the Offbeat crew was pitching tents we were struggling with our tire! As a result we could not get any kind of feel for the camp except for a few pictures of the tents being set.
And once we crossed the river to the next camp (this is where we got horribly stuck), there was no way to return to Offbeat as that particular river was rising fast!
So, we bid them goodbye with a promise and invitation to return later this year! We certainly will.
Olare Orok – final thoughts
In the future I want to return to all these camps during dry season and visit several other camps including Governors Bush Camp, Kicheche Bush Camp, a new camp being built near Kidogo Airstrip, etc.
We were pleasantly surprised with this Conservancy. I hope they can resist more growth and I think they should look at some of the permanent structures we saw at a few camps. I like the minivan ban!
There are several traces of abandoned Maasai homesteads. Obviously, the Maasai have been asked to evacuate the Conservancy – whether they did so willingly and how many remain is unknown to me. I assume they received some compensation in one form or the other but it is hard to get straight answers when asking specific questions!
The landscape is pretty with hills and valleys and sections of open plains surrounded by trees. Some Olare Orok pictures are at the bottom of this page: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mar...araiImages.htm
Jan 22nd, 2007, 09:29 AM
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Eben, Good Fodorite! The information you’re sharing really is invaluable. Topis on islands! Do you know if there are any budget bandas with bathrooms? And do you know anything about the rates at Nyumbu?
Jan 22nd, 2007, 11:51 AM
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Tacos- great, you will be there before me I think so let us know!
Nyamera - I will update go-safari with those details shortly. Nyumbu rates start around $170 per double room, $145 for a single (depending who you work with). These are full board without park fees (another $45ppd at least)
ANOTHER CORRECTION: Offbeat Camp is in the Koiyaki Conservancy as far as I could tell and not in Olare Orok but very close to both anyway! I forgot to ask – everyone was too busy. While I don’t have great pictures and we could not stay, I did get the GPS position so my map is correct!
IlMoran Camp - http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/ilmoran.htm
Governors has a long tradition in the Mara. They get a steady stream of visitors and the reviews are good. For many years, they were the standard in the Mara. Well, things change and smaller and more intimate camps moved in to occupy prime locations.
What used to be a clear choice is now not a shoe-in anymore. Is Governors responding to challenge the young guns? To find out, we spent a night at its flagship camp IlMoran. Carol has not stayed at Governors camps before and I was eager to hear her opinion!
As at Shompole our expectations were high, especially Carol’s. There were only 3 couples in camp including us and I wondered if dinner would be something intimate and special!
We were in tent 4. The lounge and dining tent is in the middle with tents 1 – 5 starting in the north going south and tents 6 – 10 leading away from the center to the south. All on the east bank of the Mara River.
Our Notes:
In our opinion, tent 3 had the best views of the river as it is on a slight bend. The banks are at least 15 feet high but there were two hippo paths leading up from the river to the left of our tent!
The tents are a bit set back so one cannot see the actual river from the verandah, although we could see the baboons, crocodiles and some hippos on the opposite bank. To see better, one has to walk over to the rails.
Carol did not like the lack of privacy, especially when sitting on our verandah. One could see all the other tents and the people in the lunch area could see us! Tent 3 has a “room-divider” style partition on the verandah to block the views from the lounge areas. But the other tents face the river and each other at slight angles. We could easily communicate with a person on the verandah of room 3! There is a pathway behind the tents but the path in front of our verandah was patrolled constantly by the guards. And used freely by the few other guests!
We wished we had a mossie net. Despite spraying our tent we were buzzed during the night and I had to get up a few times to spray – then Carol starting sneezing as a result!
I liked the plugs in the bathroom next to the sink for charging our devices but just wished they had a little rack or something.
The bathtub is special but due to the lack of privacy in front of our tent we had to close the flaps looking at the view from the tub!
The tents are roomy and very comfortable – we liked the Fred Flinstone style beds but wish we had plump pillows! Lots of rack space and seating areas and good lighting – solar and gas and candles!
Lunch and breakfast are served on the bank and not inside the dining tent – very nice – but watch out for the birds that swoop in to grab anything not covered!
Dinner was fine and served in the dining tent but the arrangement was a bit weird. We sat with our backs to the couples behind us – basically the idea was that all face west towards the river. With only 3 tables, they should’ve placed the 3 tables in a row at the front of the tent and not one behind each other in the left corner!
We were a bit spoiled by now and expected to be told the menu earlier in the day but not in this case. So we settled in and fortunately could choose from two starters, 3 main entries, and or two deserts! We enjoyed the food very much!
While the food was great, the service was matter-of-fact and automated. Bam, bam, bam and it was over! We were all out of there in an hour I think, including a floor show to celebrate a birthday of one of the guests! At the end, Carol and I looked at each other and said wow! That was efficient and clinical. So we had a few extra hours to kill that evening! I guess we expected a longer evening in the dining tent!
At 4:30am, we were woken up by a big noise and the occasional loud voice! It was the balloon team just across the river at Little Governors getting ready for their 6am flight. The burners were fired and the noise was loud enough to prevent us from sleeping anymore. So we were up at 6 to watch the balloon take off.
The guides know their stuff! We did not have time for a game drive in their open vehicles but I talked to them at length and they left me speechless with their enthusiasm and knowledge of the cats in the western Mara! They seemingly knew every cat large or small!
So we I left IlMoran – happy but with a simple conclusion. Little Governors remain my favorite camp of the Governors group!
Nyamera - I will update go-safari with those details shortly. Nyumbu rates start around $170 per double room, $145 for a single (depending who you work with). These are full board without park fees (another $45ppd at least)
ANOTHER CORRECTION: Offbeat Camp is in the Koiyaki Conservancy as far as I could tell and not in Olare Orok but very close to both anyway! I forgot to ask – everyone was too busy. While I don’t have great pictures and we could not stay, I did get the GPS position so my map is correct!
IlMoran Camp - http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/ilmoran.htm
Governors has a long tradition in the Mara. They get a steady stream of visitors and the reviews are good. For many years, they were the standard in the Mara. Well, things change and smaller and more intimate camps moved in to occupy prime locations.
What used to be a clear choice is now not a shoe-in anymore. Is Governors responding to challenge the young guns? To find out, we spent a night at its flagship camp IlMoran. Carol has not stayed at Governors camps before and I was eager to hear her opinion!
As at Shompole our expectations were high, especially Carol’s. There were only 3 couples in camp including us and I wondered if dinner would be something intimate and special!
We were in tent 4. The lounge and dining tent is in the middle with tents 1 – 5 starting in the north going south and tents 6 – 10 leading away from the center to the south. All on the east bank of the Mara River.
Our Notes:
In our opinion, tent 3 had the best views of the river as it is on a slight bend. The banks are at least 15 feet high but there were two hippo paths leading up from the river to the left of our tent!
The tents are a bit set back so one cannot see the actual river from the verandah, although we could see the baboons, crocodiles and some hippos on the opposite bank. To see better, one has to walk over to the rails.
Carol did not like the lack of privacy, especially when sitting on our verandah. One could see all the other tents and the people in the lunch area could see us! Tent 3 has a “room-divider” style partition on the verandah to block the views from the lounge areas. But the other tents face the river and each other at slight angles. We could easily communicate with a person on the verandah of room 3! There is a pathway behind the tents but the path in front of our verandah was patrolled constantly by the guards. And used freely by the few other guests!
We wished we had a mossie net. Despite spraying our tent we were buzzed during the night and I had to get up a few times to spray – then Carol starting sneezing as a result!
I liked the plugs in the bathroom next to the sink for charging our devices but just wished they had a little rack or something.
The bathtub is special but due to the lack of privacy in front of our tent we had to close the flaps looking at the view from the tub!
The tents are roomy and very comfortable – we liked the Fred Flinstone style beds but wish we had plump pillows! Lots of rack space and seating areas and good lighting – solar and gas and candles!
Lunch and breakfast are served on the bank and not inside the dining tent – very nice – but watch out for the birds that swoop in to grab anything not covered!
Dinner was fine and served in the dining tent but the arrangement was a bit weird. We sat with our backs to the couples behind us – basically the idea was that all face west towards the river. With only 3 tables, they should’ve placed the 3 tables in a row at the front of the tent and not one behind each other in the left corner!
We were a bit spoiled by now and expected to be told the menu earlier in the day but not in this case. So we settled in and fortunately could choose from two starters, 3 main entries, and or two deserts! We enjoyed the food very much!
While the food was great, the service was matter-of-fact and automated. Bam, bam, bam and it was over! We were all out of there in an hour I think, including a floor show to celebrate a birthday of one of the guests! At the end, Carol and I looked at each other and said wow! That was efficient and clinical. So we had a few extra hours to kill that evening! I guess we expected a longer evening in the dining tent!
At 4:30am, we were woken up by a big noise and the occasional loud voice! It was the balloon team just across the river at Little Governors getting ready for their 6am flight. The burners were fired and the noise was loud enough to prevent us from sleeping anymore. So we were up at 6 to watch the balloon take off.
The guides know their stuff! We did not have time for a game drive in their open vehicles but I talked to them at length and they left me speechless with their enthusiasm and knowledge of the cats in the western Mara! They seemingly knew every cat large or small!
So we I left IlMoran – happy but with a simple conclusion. Little Governors remain my favorite camp of the Governors group!
Jan 23rd, 2007, 04:50 AM
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Many here have stayed at Little Governors and wrote reports so I won’t repeat the same accolades! Our pictures are here: http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mar...egovernors.htm
For the best views and lesser traffic, try to get tents 14 onwards (17 being the honeymoon tent at the far end)
REKERO CAMP – http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/rekero.htm
After Governors, we were driving south towards Naibor Camp (our next stay) but we immediately got stuck next to Musiara Airstrip! Imagine that! That whole area is normally quite dry but now it was swampy and we knew that we were in for another long day!
With a couple of buffalo looking on we unstuck ourselves, tuned back north and took the long way around down towards Rhino Ridge, basically following a Rekero supply jeep in the direction of Rekero/Naibor camps.
Rhino Ridge was so beautiful see picture http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/MaraShots8.jpg The grass was quite short and we saw several cheetahs along the way but we could not identify them! Warthogs were everywhere, most I’ve ever seen. I think they loved the wet. We also saw many topis and really large herds of eland.
Along the way, we tried to visit our special camp site on the banks of the Olare Orok River! This will be where Carol and I will base ourselves in Aug/Sep this year – it is a prime spot between Olkiombo Airstrip and Rhino Ridge; a cheetah hotspot and right between two lion prides (rhino ridge pride and olkiombo pride). When the migration is in, this area will be red red hot this year. Unfortunately, the track to the camp was impassable and we could not get near it due to the flooding river! What a disappointment!
At that time we also realized that we cannot get to Nairbor Camp which is located on the southern bank of the Talek river. So we flagged down the Rekero car and rang their camp who promptly gave us a place to stay while we figured out how to get to Naibor. Actually we were booked to stay at Rekero anyway at a later time so we just switched the bookings!
We arrived at Rekero about 30 minutes before the rains came in! They set up lunch on the beautiful lawn on the bank of the flooding Talek River. What a sight! Please look at our pictures! I doubt if I will ever see the Talek like this again!
Lunch had to be quick to avoid getting wet but the food was wonderful and very well presented! We were joined by the several of the staff (including owner-partner Jackson) and it was very enjoyable.
We were in tent 6 right on the river. You can see our views in the pictures. There are 8 tents at Rekero although tent 8 is an overflow tent with no views (not on the river bank). Tent 7 is furthest away and closest to the hippo pool. It is wild out there and good for honeymooners and the adventurous! Tents 4 to 6 are closes to the river. Tent 1 is nearest to the lounge. It has a big lawn towards the river and good for families with children because they have a bit more outdoor space. Rooms 2 and 3 also have bits of lawn as well as river views. 4 - 7 have no lawns and are right on the banks.
Rekero is in the wild and you can sense it as you take the walks to/from your tent! The tents are hidden in the bush so you don’t see the other tents! It feels as if you are all alone once inside! Wonderful!
The river was loud so we did not hear anything at night but from the tracks near camp we could see several hyena and elephant came to visit each night!
Our Notes:
The tents are not flashy and smaller than the tents we normally use in Tanzania. Old-style if you want, but Carol loved the small details such as the patterns that were carefully stitched onto the canvas and on the chairs.
She would replace the bed-covers though! There was nothing wrong with the flowery design but a better theme would really make a difference and I agree!
I enjoyed the view from our tent across the river to the ridge on the other side of the river. I watched an assortment of wildlife with the binocs for hours as they go about their business. A herd of bachelor impala was trying to lure some females from a big male and he was really agitated! He would storm those head first and I was waiting to see if a bachelor would mount a challenge but no – they were not going to go man-to-man with Mr. Big. They would scatter then regroup to come and agitate him once again. This went on for hours until the females walked away and Mr. Big followed walking almost backwards while keeping an eye on the young boys!
Carol also loved the dresser and bathroom setup. She actually had room and space to unpack her stuff!
In front of our tent under the canopy, we had a table with washing water and two chairs. When they put the gas lamp outside at night the whole tent looked very romantic and truly out-of-africa!
No mossie nets, but the tents were smaller than IlMoran so the spray worked better I guess.
Our tent had gas lamps only but they have started to install solar lights in the tents as you can see in one of my pictures).
The lounge tent is open-plan with 2 seating sections so clients can spread out a bit. The staff was always at hand – basically your guide acts as a personal butler – but everything is very informal so during the course of an hour one would probably talk to all the guides! They are all Maasai and educated and very interesting!
During our stay they had a young lady working as a client liaison. I am not sure if this is a permanent position but it shows they truly care about their clients. Carol enjoyed talking to her because they could discuss the little things that I don’t notice – the napkin-holders for example!
Lunches and breakfasts were always served on the lawn. This was truly wonderful. Dinners were inside because of rain and they even had to close the sides but when the weather is good it will all be open!
Dinner was joyous! Food was wonderful – I had lamb and it was prepared really well. We were told our dinner choices earlier in the day in case we wanted something different. We would all eat together at this big table and share our game drive stories – there were two other families in camp! The guides were really entertaining! They see a lot and have wonderful stories of happenings around camp and on game drives. We left the dining room very late! A completely different experience than IlMoran.
It was hard to leave Rekero. It is not flashy. It does not try to be cool. It is not touristy. It is a true safari camp in a prime location where one feels at one with nature and part of the family. We were not guests, we were treated as family friends and it all felt right.
For the best views and lesser traffic, try to get tents 14 onwards (17 being the honeymoon tent at the far end)
REKERO CAMP – http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/rekero.htm
After Governors, we were driving south towards Naibor Camp (our next stay) but we immediately got stuck next to Musiara Airstrip! Imagine that! That whole area is normally quite dry but now it was swampy and we knew that we were in for another long day!
With a couple of buffalo looking on we unstuck ourselves, tuned back north and took the long way around down towards Rhino Ridge, basically following a Rekero supply jeep in the direction of Rekero/Naibor camps.
Rhino Ridge was so beautiful see picture http://www.go-safari.com/Masai%20Mara/MaraShots8.jpg The grass was quite short and we saw several cheetahs along the way but we could not identify them! Warthogs were everywhere, most I’ve ever seen. I think they loved the wet. We also saw many topis and really large herds of eland.
Along the way, we tried to visit our special camp site on the banks of the Olare Orok River! This will be where Carol and I will base ourselves in Aug/Sep this year – it is a prime spot between Olkiombo Airstrip and Rhino Ridge; a cheetah hotspot and right between two lion prides (rhino ridge pride and olkiombo pride). When the migration is in, this area will be red red hot this year. Unfortunately, the track to the camp was impassable and we could not get near it due to the flooding river! What a disappointment!
At that time we also realized that we cannot get to Nairbor Camp which is located on the southern bank of the Talek river. So we flagged down the Rekero car and rang their camp who promptly gave us a place to stay while we figured out how to get to Naibor. Actually we were booked to stay at Rekero anyway at a later time so we just switched the bookings!
We arrived at Rekero about 30 minutes before the rains came in! They set up lunch on the beautiful lawn on the bank of the flooding Talek River. What a sight! Please look at our pictures! I doubt if I will ever see the Talek like this again!
Lunch had to be quick to avoid getting wet but the food was wonderful and very well presented! We were joined by the several of the staff (including owner-partner Jackson) and it was very enjoyable.
We were in tent 6 right on the river. You can see our views in the pictures. There are 8 tents at Rekero although tent 8 is an overflow tent with no views (not on the river bank). Tent 7 is furthest away and closest to the hippo pool. It is wild out there and good for honeymooners and the adventurous! Tents 4 to 6 are closes to the river. Tent 1 is nearest to the lounge. It has a big lawn towards the river and good for families with children because they have a bit more outdoor space. Rooms 2 and 3 also have bits of lawn as well as river views. 4 - 7 have no lawns and are right on the banks.
Rekero is in the wild and you can sense it as you take the walks to/from your tent! The tents are hidden in the bush so you don’t see the other tents! It feels as if you are all alone once inside! Wonderful!
The river was loud so we did not hear anything at night but from the tracks near camp we could see several hyena and elephant came to visit each night!
Our Notes:
The tents are not flashy and smaller than the tents we normally use in Tanzania. Old-style if you want, but Carol loved the small details such as the patterns that were carefully stitched onto the canvas and on the chairs.
She would replace the bed-covers though! There was nothing wrong with the flowery design but a better theme would really make a difference and I agree!
I enjoyed the view from our tent across the river to the ridge on the other side of the river. I watched an assortment of wildlife with the binocs for hours as they go about their business. A herd of bachelor impala was trying to lure some females from a big male and he was really agitated! He would storm those head first and I was waiting to see if a bachelor would mount a challenge but no – they were not going to go man-to-man with Mr. Big. They would scatter then regroup to come and agitate him once again. This went on for hours until the females walked away and Mr. Big followed walking almost backwards while keeping an eye on the young boys!
Carol also loved the dresser and bathroom setup. She actually had room and space to unpack her stuff!
In front of our tent under the canopy, we had a table with washing water and two chairs. When they put the gas lamp outside at night the whole tent looked very romantic and truly out-of-africa!
No mossie nets, but the tents were smaller than IlMoran so the spray worked better I guess.
Our tent had gas lamps only but they have started to install solar lights in the tents as you can see in one of my pictures).
The lounge tent is open-plan with 2 seating sections so clients can spread out a bit. The staff was always at hand – basically your guide acts as a personal butler – but everything is very informal so during the course of an hour one would probably talk to all the guides! They are all Maasai and educated and very interesting!
During our stay they had a young lady working as a client liaison. I am not sure if this is a permanent position but it shows they truly care about their clients. Carol enjoyed talking to her because they could discuss the little things that I don’t notice – the napkin-holders for example!
Lunches and breakfasts were always served on the lawn. This was truly wonderful. Dinners were inside because of rain and they even had to close the sides but when the weather is good it will all be open!
Dinner was joyous! Food was wonderful – I had lamb and it was prepared really well. We were told our dinner choices earlier in the day in case we wanted something different. We would all eat together at this big table and share our game drive stories – there were two other families in camp! The guides were really entertaining! They see a lot and have wonderful stories of happenings around camp and on game drives. We left the dining room very late! A completely different experience than IlMoran.
It was hard to leave Rekero. It is not flashy. It does not try to be cool. It is not touristy. It is a true safari camp in a prime location where one feels at one with nature and part of the family. We were not guests, we were treated as family friends and it all felt right.
Jan 23rd, 2007, 06:27 AM
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climbhighsleeplow: We had similar reactions as you did to Il Moran and Rekero Tented Camp. We stayed at both for 3 nights each at the end of Oct.
Il Moran is indeed "efficient and clinical". I would also add "cold" to emphasize just how unwelcome and out of place we felt. Unfortunately our guide was relatively new and didn't seem to be accepted by the other guides yet, so we didn't feel any of the camaraderie and enthusiasm you described. We will not be returning to this camp but may try Little Governors.
We absolutely loved Rekero and it's owners. We also felt like family friends...so very welcoming and comfortable. One regret was the camp was full and there just wasn't room at the dining table for the guides. That would have been most interesting and educational. But we were very lucky to see crossings from the camp on two days. They even set up a table so we could eat breakfast while watching the wildebeest, zebra and topi crossing the Talek. Speaking of which, I can't believe your pictures of the Talek...it was only a trickle when we were there! You are spot on about its being hard to leave...we would have gladly give up our 3 nights at Il Moran to stay. We will definitely return to Rekero, and would also like to try Rekero Kidogo and even the cottages.
Il Moran is indeed "efficient and clinical". I would also add "cold" to emphasize just how unwelcome and out of place we felt. Unfortunately our guide was relatively new and didn't seem to be accepted by the other guides yet, so we didn't feel any of the camaraderie and enthusiasm you described. We will not be returning to this camp but may try Little Governors.
We absolutely loved Rekero and it's owners. We also felt like family friends...so very welcoming and comfortable. One regret was the camp was full and there just wasn't room at the dining table for the guides. That would have been most interesting and educational. But we were very lucky to see crossings from the camp on two days. They even set up a table so we could eat breakfast while watching the wildebeest, zebra and topi crossing the Talek. Speaking of which, I can't believe your pictures of the Talek...it was only a trickle when we were there! You are spot on about its being hard to leave...we would have gladly give up our 3 nights at Il Moran to stay. We will definitely return to Rekero, and would also like to try Rekero Kidogo and even the cottages.
Jan 23rd, 2007, 08:43 AM
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Thanks Eben for these great reports; even though I also visited some of these camps like Ol Seki and Rekero withing a week of your visits, I can't add anything. You're spot right on with how I feel also.
Just a note to ovenbird: the Rekero cottages are no more. It's now where the owners live and they don't rent it out. Basically, they now have Rekero Kidogo instead which is run by Jackson - it's his baby so to speak. Jackson will stay with you as your guide throughout your stay in both camps, if you book both camps and he is your assigned guide.
Just a note to ovenbird: the Rekero cottages are no more. It's now where the owners live and they don't rent it out. Basically, they now have Rekero Kidogo instead which is run by Jackson - it's his baby so to speak. Jackson will stay with you as your guide throughout your stay in both camps, if you book both camps and he is your assigned guide.
