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Karen and Julie's Egyptian escapades: camels, sheesha pipes & belly dancing

Karen and Julie's Egyptian escapades: camels, sheesha pipes & belly dancing

Old Mar 1st, 2009, 06:29 AM
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Karen and Julie's Egyptian escapades: camels, sheesha pipes & belly dancing

Egypt was my 32nd country, but it was full of "firsts":

- my first time in a hot air balloon,
- my first sheesha pipe experience,
- the first time I ever felt like a pop star, with pre-adolescent boys and girls alike wanting to take my picture with their cell phones
- the first time I was offered pigeon for dinner (I regret passing)
- and the first time men offered to buy my daughter for camels ("a million wouldn't be enough," one said)

The trip was exotic, intense and always fascinating, filled with history I could barely wrap my head around and the ever-present, in-your-face vendors.

Julie, my daughter (27), and I had planned this trip for last October, but a torn rotator cuff and subsequent shoulder surgery forced me to postpone until early February. It was worth the wait.

Although we've done previous trips on our own (with help from this board!), we decided to try a group tour for Egypt. We chose Gap Adventures, and were very happy with them. We arrived a couple days early and had booked Debbie Sentors (a regular here) of Casual Cairo for a couple days on our own. That, too, proved to be a good decision.

Our basic itinerary was as follows:

1. Flight from Baltimore to New York, then direct to Cairo with Delta
2. Arrive Cairo mid-day, free time
3. Coptic Cairo and feloucca ride with Debbie
4. Islamic Cairo with Debbie
5. Cairo (and rest of trip) with Gap - pyramids, Egyptian museum
6. Bus to Alexandria
7. Alexandria then back to Cairo for overnight train to Aswan
8. Aswan - most of day spent on train because of breakdown
9. Abu Simbel
10. Aswan sights, board Nile cruise boat (MS Emilio)
11. Cruising - Kom Ombo, Edfu
12. Luxor - Valley of Kings, Luxor museum
13. Luxor - Ballooning, Karnak, Luxor temple

More to come...
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Old Mar 1st, 2009, 06:31 AM
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oops, hit submit too soon...

14. Flight from Luxor back to Cairo - afternoon in Khan el-Khalil bazaar
15. Flight home
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Old Mar 1st, 2009, 07:49 AM
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Hi Karen - look forward to reading your report!
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Old Mar 1st, 2009, 08:35 AM
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Arrival in Cairo

Our Delta flight was uneventful, although a little bumpy. The food was awful. I kept thinking about that customer complaint letter to Richard Branson of Virgin - “really, Richard...”

http://uk.news.yahoo.com/blog/editor...article/11975/

The meals we had looked a lot like those - “really, Delta.”

Fortunately the flight was half empty, meaning we had space to spread out. Julie snagged three middle seats and I had two on the side, so we did manage a little sleep. The arrival process was easy - and made easier by Michael, the Gap representative who met us and obtained our visas (I think $15?) while we went through passport control.

We were then driven to our hotel and got our first taste of Cairo traffic. It’s unreal. I’ve been to Paris, Rome, Bangkok, and Seoul - and Cairo ranks right up there. Lane markings seem to be irrelevant. There will be five cars across on a road designated for three lanes. Horns are always honking, cars get so close to one another that every few minutes seems a near miss, and pedestrians routinely take their lives into their hands by weaving in and out of passing cars to cross the street. At night, as we learned later, drivers seldom use their headlights - except apparently to greet other cars.

Somehow we arrived in one piece at the Husa Hotel, in Giza. It was nice enough, a typical Western-style tourist hotel, but not in a great location - busy street and too far from the city center to walk to anything tourists might want to see. The beds were hard, the breakfast mediocre.

We took a short nap before setting out to explore the neighborhood. That introductory walk was intense. We were stared at more directly and by more people than I’d ever experienced before. Maybe it was because it wasn’t a tourist section of town and there were no other tourists around. Maybe it was because we were two women walking alone. Maybe it was because we’re both white - really, really white. We were both dressed conservatively, but we might as well have been in bikinis for all the stares we drew - from both men and women. It didn’t seem dangerous but was definitely unnerving.

Almost without exception, the women wore head scarves; most were in long robes (gabaleyas). Men were much more Westernized - usually in jeans.

We stopped at a grocery store to stock up on water (about 3LE, or 75 cents, for a 2-liter bottle) and snacks. TIP: grocery stores are great places to break large bills. We had gotten money from an ATM (which are easy to find throughout Egypt) at the airport but had nothing but 200LE bills. For every-day transactions and especially for bathroom stops, small bills are essential. Change can be difficult to come by.

I bought an ear of corn from a couple of young women along the street for 1LE (20 cents). It wasn’t very good, but I wanted to try it. I asked if I could take their picture. They giggled and nodded yes, but when I aimed the camera, they both hid their face.

We wandered through a local market - with clothing and jewelry and everyday items. We were struck by how many women, in their full robes and head scarves, were gathered around the stalls stocked with sexy lingerie. Go figure.

We made our way back to the hotel, with continued stares, and decided to have dinner there, in a comfortable haven. We went for “safe” food, pizza. It was just ok. The best part was when the waiter, whose English was minimal, asked if Julie was my son. She looks nothing like a boy, so we both laughed on the inside and I smiled and said, yes... my daughter. He smiled and nodded.

We went to bed feeling light-headed from the jet lag... but excited to meet Debbie the next day and start our Cairo tour.
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Old Mar 1st, 2009, 09:29 PM
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I just know I am going to enjoy your report thoroughly, Karen. You have a very readable style and brought back wonderful memories from a year ago.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2009, 03:35 AM
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great start, can't wait for more!
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Old Mar 2nd, 2009, 05:25 AM
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Thanks for the encouragement! I'll work on it some more tonight. I forgot to mention that after the waiter asked if Julie was my son and I nodded yes (daughter), he said to me, "She's beautiful." As you'll read later, that became a theme throughout the trip.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2009, 10:05 AM
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Great report Karen! Can't wait to read more.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2009, 04:06 PM
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Coptic Cairo

We slept in the next morning, and Debbie picked us up right on time at noon. We went to Coptic Cairo - saw the Hanging Church, Ben Ezra Synagogue, a cemetery, and some other sites whose names I’ve forgotten. It was a pleasant morning, and I’m glad we had the chance to see that area, but with limited time, I’d probably give it a miss. You can get a pretty good flavor of it in a couple of hours, though.

Being with Debbie certainly made things easier. She knew where she was going and how to deal with zealous vendors, so we could relax. Plus this was a more touristy area so we didn’t feel as much on display as the previous day. Several people knew Debbie - “she’s famous,” a couple of guards said. We got a kick out of that - being with a star! There were guards, by the way, at every tourist site. The Egyptian government apparently takes security very seriously, as I’d read before going. I never once felt in danger. Uncomfortable in the face of stares and aggressive sales pitches, yes. But in danger, no. Egypt felt very safe.

We got our first real insight into (at least some) Egyptian sentiment toward Americans at the Ben Ezra synagogue. It was mobbed with people - Egyptians, not Westerners - so Debbie gave us a brief history and waited outside as Julie and I made our way through the crowd. We suddenly became celebrities. Young girls - hundreds of them, so it seemed(!) - were star-struck. A girl would step in front of me, look me in the eye, smile, and say boldly: “Hello! (loudly, as if I might be hard of hearing) What’s your name?” (Every single one said the same thing.)
“Karen, what’s yours?” I'd respond. Clearly delighted that I’d understood and was willing to engage, they’d tell me their name, with all the sincerity an 11-year-old girl can muster. Some went on to ask where I was from, but that apparently exhausted their command of English. Each exchange was dear - and we were both approached (we got separated) about 10 times in 10 minutes. I caught sight of Julie at one point, posing for a picture arm-in-arm with one of the girls. We were charmed, and not expecting such a reception.

Back on the street, local men began greeting us. “Where you from?” “Russia?” “Poland?”
“America,” we responded, “the US,” which was greeted with “Obama! Yes, we can!” and “America number 1.” One guy pointed to an Obama political button pinned to his shirt. Throughout the trip, when people learned we were from the US, they greeted us warmly. Numerous people said simply, “Welcome.”

We stopped in a little tea shop, with a small outdoor courtyard, for a break. Debbie, of course, knew the owner, who brought out several oils and asked us to guess the scent - clove, mint, etc. He gave us each a bracelet, put a little red dot on Julie’s forehead, like an Indian woman (which you can see in some of my Cairo pictures), and told me my daughter’s really pretty. Several (slender) cats jumped on the bench where we were sitting... then onto the table, only to be shooed off by the owner. Debbie told us he had about a dozen cats.

Debbie then took us to the Egypt Craft Center, which is affiliated with some NGOs that ensure profits go to the people who made the products. Prices are fixed, which made it easy (I found bargaining difficult, even though I’d done it in Peru and Southeast Asia). We made a few purchases: scarves, a wooden bowl, a wooden lotus wall hanging, a candle holder. I wish I’d bought more!

I’m going to take a break now (24’s on!) and pick up later. I didn’t mean to go into so much detail... more to come. Next up: Nile sunset aboard a feloucca.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2009, 07:11 PM
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althom1122

What a wonderful start to what will become a fantastic trip report. Your writing style is smooth and relaxed. I love it. I can't wait to read more.

tC
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Old Mar 3rd, 2009, 03:54 AM
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Hi Karen - I am loving your report so far. Now that I have been to Egypt reading a trip report is a totally different experience as I can visualize what you are writing about. I share your frustration regarding shopping. Sometimes in the beginning of a trip I don't buy as much as I might want to as I think I'll have so many more opportunities that I should restrain myself. Please keep up the details, that's what makes a report interesting.

By the way, I hope you are enjoying 24. I am a lot happier with this season than the last one.
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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 03:52 PM
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Thanks, teacherCanada and jerseysusan! (And yes, I'm enjoying 24! Tonight it's Lost that's going to cut my writing time short.)

Cairo, continued

After shopping, we headed to the Nile for our sunset feloucca ride. On the way, we stopped for sandwiches: eggplant (“but I don’t LIKE eggplant,” I whined), felafel, and “refried beans” (I forget the Egyptian name, but that’s basically what they were). Debbie brought wine, a tablecloth, some fruit, and cookies (Boreos - yup, an Oreo copy-cat). We ordered the sandwiches at a counter-place along a busy street.

At the TGI-Friday’s where we made a bathroom stop (more on bathrooms later), Julie laughed to see people smoking sheesha pipes. In every other way, the restaurant looked just like a TGI-Friday’s in the US.

I’m not sure how much the feloucca rental cost because Debbie included it in our cost, but it was well worth it! What a relaxing way to spend an evening in Cairo. The wind and temperature were perfect. Tall buildings rose from one shore; reeds lined the other -- reeds that, a few thousand years ago, would have been the perfect hiding place for a baby in a basket. Orange and white feloucca sails punctuated the wide river with graceful exclamation points. We had a wonderful time (and, um, the eggplant sandwiches turned out to be my favorite--well, I never liked eggplant BEFORE!). Check out my photos and you’ll see what I mean about the feloucca ride. In case you missed the link: http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/f309561202

Then it was off to the market to order cartouches. Debbie was wearing one with the hieroglyphs cut out rather than on a solid background, and Julie and I both wanted the same thing. We under-estimated how hard it would be! Traffic was terrible. There were no real lanes, just a mass of cars, maybe five across, barely moving, with drivers jockeying for position whenever any space appeared. Wedding parties provided amusement, with drivers engaging in rhythmic horn-honking that Debbie said is called “wedding beeps” - sort of like dueling banjos. It was hilarious.

Debbie, Julie, and I jumped out of the car about a mile before the bazaar and started walking - it was faster. We scurried along, literally inches from the outside lane of traffic. Occasionally people, or a motorcycle, would squeeze past us. Finally we came to a pedestrian bridge and were able to cross over and descend to the bazaar. It felt a little like (not that I’ve done it) jumping into a salmon stream during spawning season. The hustle-bustle of the narrow alleys was unreal. We stayed as close to Debbie as possible and finally made it to the jewelry shop. Between us, we ordered 10 or 12 silver cartouches ($15 each, chain included).

Debbie called the driver on her cell phone and we headed back to the hotel for a well-earned rest. Tomorrow: Islamic Cairo.
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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 06:16 PM
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Hi again Karen. Thanks for continuing your report. I enjoyed tonight's "episode". I too loved sailing in a felucca, my experience with them was in Aswan. I also bought a cartouche but with a solid background, I hope you are as happy with yours as I am - yours sounds lovely. Boy the traffic in Cairo sure was something else, it seems everyone marvels at it. Your walk sounded like a real adventure. Well looking foward to your impressions of Islamic Cairo.

By the way, hope you enjoyed tonight's Lost. I love that show.
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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 06:40 PM
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I am loving your report Karen! I have to admit, one of the many things I REALLY miss about living in Cairo are the felluca rides! It was always such a wonderful way to unwind with friends after a hectic week! (Best done with a cooler of beer/wine and lots of snacks!)

As for the traffic....been there, drove it, survived it! It's not for the faint of heart!!!! But sure makes driving back in the US seem boring!!!!
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 10:58 AM
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Felucca! That's right. I kept thinking I wasn't spelling it right and meant to look it up but just never did. Thanks.
(And thanks for the comments on my report! I never mean to include so much detail, but somehow it just ends up that I do.)
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 12:49 PM
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Grcxx3 - You aren't going to believe where I made them jump out of the car - You know the fly over from Opera Square that runs over to the Khan and drops back down to the surface right before the Green Bridge? Yep, we walked almost the whole length of it. That night was UNBELIEVABLE traffic. You couldn't go anywhere and have it move. We tried. We tried everything - finally getting out and walking seemed like the only way.

I hope everyone liked their cartouches.

Falouka ride is usually LE100 (LE40 per hour and LE20 tip to the captain). I'm pretty certain that is what we paid that night.
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 12:56 PM
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althom - since Arabic is a very phonetic type language with no real vowels.....spellings vary. As long as you get the general "sound" from the spelling - you're doing fine!

Debbie - Can't believe that's where you got out! Sounds like an experience!
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 01:20 PM
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Yes, it was an experience! I loved it.

And Debbie - yes the cartouches have been a hit. Plus, we got tons of compliments from our tour group. Glad you're reading!
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 02:00 PM
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althom - keep it coming. I just love hearing stories from real people about their real experiences. While most follow a general pattern (there are a set number of things tourists do in Egypt) the individual stories are a blast to read.

Do you remember the name of the store where you purchased the cartouches? They sound great - and a great price too.

tC
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 03:58 PM
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tC - actually I DO know the name of the shop, because they put each cartouche in a little black velvet bag with the store name on it:

Gouzlan Group Jewellers.
Telephones: 25904721 or 25931064 or 25884061.

It was in the Khalili bazaar - the hieroglyph card that came with them mentions several locations, including 6 Khan El Khalili (if that helps).

I'll take a picture of one and add it to my photos (prob over the weekend - will post the link when I've done it).
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