Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Africa & the Middle East
Reload this Page >

Help! Africa newbie needs to know where to begin...

Search

Help! Africa newbie needs to know where to begin...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 4th, 2010, 09:39 AM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Help! Africa newbie needs to know where to begin...

Hey guys. I'm an Asia board regular so this is my first time in this neck-of-the-woods.

Just back from our 4th Southeast Asia trip in a row and am looking to plan our next big jaunt (for 2011). All eyes are on Africa right now, but I have to admit that I'm just a wee bit overwhelmed by the notion of where to even begin.

Done a few searches on here and found a lot of threads about advice for first-timers, but a lot seem to be geared towards specific countries, etc. I don't think I've even gotten that far I could sure use some guidance as to how to being this process.

I think the biggest question (and one that may stop this from going further) is: can we afford it? Hard to answer, I know. How much can I expect to spend (we'll be using mileage for our tickets, so airfare wouldn't be factored in) on a 2 week trip to South and/or East Africa? I know it really runs the gamut, but I don't think we'll want top of the line 5 star all the way (maybe just a tad of that here and there.) My friends are there right now and they tell me that a lot of Africa trips are all-inclusive.

That said, what is a good first-time itinerary for a 2 week trip (could be 14-16 days max)? We obviously can't cover too much distance in that time, but both South and East Africa have lots of appealing options...but there's so many places we want to see...Kenya, Botswana, South Africa, etc.

A few things about us:
-We're In our mid-30s
-We like a bit of mix of places to stay--definitely like some luxury mixed in. But budget is definitely not unlimited
-We're huge animal lovers--so anything that allows for hands-on (well not with things that might bite our hands off) experiences with animals we're all about
-We like walks and hiking so a little bit of adventure is always a good thing
-We like to move--don't like to stay too long in one place.

Thanks in advance--and apologies if this has been covered a million times on this board already. I appreciate any help you can give.
filmwill is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 09:57 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just evaluate yourself before going to fiddle around specifics:

- budget is essential and should provide a decent gap for exchange rate increase. Indicator: the ZAR (South African Rand) increased by almost 30% towards the US$ making it much more expensive.
All of Southern/East Africa is US$ focused. South Africa uses the ZAR but exchange rate wise won't make a big difference.

- Time of year:
East Africa for the wildebeest migration means Kenya's Massai Mara between Aug and Oct.
Tanzania could be wildebeest calving season Jan-Feb in Southern Serengeti or June/July for migration in the Western corridor, July/Aug northern Serengeti.

- For safari I would recommend 3 nights/camp/location in order to not waste too much time in transfer from A to B.

- Hiking or at least considerable exercise is nice in Kenya's Laikipia plateuau where you can do walking safaris.
If you are thinking of doing a Kilimanjaro clim that would consume almost the whole lot of your time - hike plus a couple of days in the crater/Serengeti - nothing else.

- I would definitely NOT recommend to do AFRICA in 2 weeks but rather concentrate on East Africa (Kenya/Tanzania and maybe Ruanda for Gorilla trekking).

- Nice combo would be Southa Africa plus Botswana - but this one asks for decent budget.

So rather inform on time and budget so that all kinds of suggestions can fly in.

Happy planning!

SV

PS - a rough guideline would be 500US$pppn. Depending on the time of the year that can take you even into Botswana (green season Jan-March).
spassvogel is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 11:17 AM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For a 2 week trip, I wouldn't do both East and Southern Africa. I'd choose one area.

You could spend $300/day self driving and staying in moderate accommodations or $2000/day at a luxury tented camp. Please give some indication of your budget as this could narrow down your options.

Some hands on experiences we've had include visiting the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in Kenya, both their Nairobi nursery for the day and staying at their Ithumba camp in Tsavo East where the elephants are rehabilitated and released where we've interacted with, bottle fed and walked with the elephant orphans. In Southern Africa it's possible to visit groups of habituated meerkats (I haven't done it). We've stayed on a ranch in Namibia where the owners have raised a few orphan meerkats. I'd research carefully though with anything "hands on" and would stay away from something like Lion Encounter at Vic Falls.

Walks are easy to incorporate in most areas. If you're looking for something more extended like a multi-day walking safari where you're walking from camp to camp, let us know. Other possibilities are horseback, canoe and boat safaris. Again there are options ranging from a few hours to several days.

There have been several past threads comparing East and Southern Africa, but search isn't working for me right now.
Patty is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 11:32 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 10,279
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Hi filmwill,

SV has given you some good tips above.

Some additional thoughts:

My budget is quite limited relative to many who post on this board and yet I am about to depart on my third trip to East Africa in six years, so it definitely <i>can</i> be done. There used to be a Lonely Planet book that detailed all the African safari countries. It was a good starting point because it listed parks, game reserves, various tribes and other cultural aspects of the countries. So I read it and narrowed down what I wanted, then ended up making my choice based on time of year and where I could get the cheapest/easiest flights. When you're ready for a more specific guidebook, the Bradt guides are excellent.

My first two trips we toured Tanzania's Northern Circuit (1x in July, 1x June). Once I added a few days on Zanzibar. I did a mix of budget camping, budget lodges and, on the second trip, higher-end lodging. I enjoyed all of it.

Next up I'm headed to Rwanda for gorilla trekking, then meeting some Fodorites in Kenya where we are staying at Ithumba, a self-catering camp in Tsavo operated by the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. Then I'm off for a few days in the Masai Mara. The price isn't exorbitant considering I'm doing two gorilla treks and traveling solo except for Tsavo. I mention all this because it sounds like the type of itinerary you and your partner might enjoy: some hiking, some traditional safari, some up-close-and-personal with elephants, etc.

Oh, I should mention that it's very easy to arrange a private safari and not really more expensive than group trips. In East Africa, anyway--not sure about Bots, Zambia, SA, etc.

Planning a safari can be a bit of a hassle at first, but it's well worth it. Once you determine where/when you want to travel, get ready to work on those award tix! Good luck!
Leely2 is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 11:38 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Patty - excellent you bring that up:

PLEASE DON'T JOIN ANY (mosty LION) CUB PETTING VENUE! NO LION WALKS nor ELEPHANT BACK RIDES.

The cat cubs are taken to hunting farms when they grow out of walking age which is between 12 and max 15/18 months of age - then they become too dangerously for interaction and entertaintment!

Elephants get very often kidnapped from wild herds and trained (Mahout) to please humans.

Anything which offers wildlife-human interaction is solely based on abuse, creulty and exploitation!

Even it's very tempting to get that "fantastic photograph" of a lion cub cuddled by you - if you support those venues you are directly supporting cruelty!
Those cubs get taken away from their mothers when their eyes are still closed. So the first thing the see is a human so that the cubs get a human imprint. As those cats are so habituated to human interaction they become very easy trophies at a (canned) hunting facility later on.

Please do consider all pros/cons before choosing such a venue!

Thank you!

SV
spassvogel is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 12:07 PM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
<i>then meeting some Fodorites in Kenya where we are staying at Ithumba</i>

I wonder which Fodorites those might be

I want to stress that the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is legit. They've had many successful releases with the elephants joining wild herds or forming their own herds not to mention all of their other contributions to wildlife in general. And I'm sure there are other rehabilitation/research projects that are worthwhile.

Here are a few past threads that talk about different regions:

http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...ica-advice.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...frica-trip.cfm (this one has links to many other threads)

Also indexes to trip reports:

http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...port-index.cfm

http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...port-index.cfm

Good luck!
Patty is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 12:25 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If you want a little adventure and a little luxury, you might want to consider a mobile group trip. We are considering a few through Wilderness Safaris in southern Africa - Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe or Namibia. The rhino tracking trip looks amazing!
http://www.wilderness-safaris.com/na...no_expedition/

I usually look into the high end tour companies - A&K, Tauck, Micato - check their itineraries, and then figure out what I want to do without a tour. Doing a safari is easy, once you figure out how and find the right safari agent. I don't know how to choose between S and E Africa - but when you choose, let us know!
christabir is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 12:25 PM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,619
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
East Africa (Kenya or Tanzania) is where you'd probably want to go. It's usually more affordable than southern Africa and it also has the landscapes that you picture in your mind when you think of going on safari (the open savannahs of the Serengeti or Masai Mara.) You'd also have a chance to see the huge Migration herds, which are spectacular. Choosing between the two countries often comes down to when you want to go. The Migration herds move between Tanzania and Kenya, depending on the rains. Sometimes, they aren't where they are "supposed" to be, but you have a good shot at seeing them if you plan accordingly.

Yes, you can do a private safari for two, but you might consider seeing if a couple of friends could join you. Let's say you went on safari in northern Tanzania, the "northern circuit" as it's called. You can drive between all the locations, all the way to the Serengeti, then take a quick flight back to Arusha. If 4 people are sharing the vehicle and guide, it's less expensive than with just 2. Because you are usually visiting national parks and reserves, you can go to the same places no matter where you are staying. You may find that certain properties are a bit better located (in the park vs. outside of it), but you can find places to stay in all price ranges.

I usually use FF miles to go to Africa, but be aware that those seats go fast. More may be released during the year, but it's "hit or miss" getting them. The FF seats are released 330 days before the flight dates. If you go to northern Tanzania, there is only one major airline flight a day there, on KLM. If you have miles on, say, United, you'd probably have to fly into Nairobi and take a short flight over to Tanzania.

Once you've come up with a general budget and time of year, post your thoughts and we'll make some suggestions.
ShayTay is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 12:30 PM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
As you're on Fodor's, suggest you pick up a copy of the <i>"Fodor's Complete Safari Planning Guide"</i> which provides details on the African safari countries in the south and east with lots of useful information.

Depending on time of year, different areas/countries will help with your decision of "where." And, as mentioned, it's as easy to design your own itinerary for a private safari vs group departure with set dates and accommodations: country/ies (Kenya/Tanzania can be done together with 2+/wks; with more time you can add Rwanda or Uganda to either Kenya or Tanzania; likewise you can combine South Africa with Botswana; even South Africa and Namibia... there so many combinations, but don't try to do too much with a hectic schedule); which parks/reserves; number of days at each; type of accommodations (hotels/lodges/permanent or seasonal tent camps [or budget camping]); driving or flying between locales within or between countries, etc. etc.

At first it seems overwhelming, but with enough research, asking questions (here or other Forums), you'll get the feel for what's what and doable. And, as with a trip anywhere, don't forget the incidentals as: Visa, inoculations, malaria meds, clothing (nothing really special needed), gratuities, souvenirs, trip insurance... which can easily add $1,000 to cost of the land portion.

We've all been where you are and we've survived with amazing tales and with few exceptions, "have been bitten" and, either, returned or are (always) planning return visits.

We'll be gentle, promise!
sandi is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 01:06 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi there!
Wow you sound exactly like me from a few months ago. Well, I have to say to begin the process you've come to the right place. Everyone on these boards was so helpful and wonderful! I found their knowledge invaluable.
Read a bunch of the posts here and definitely start with the book Sandi mentioned: Fodor's Complete Safari Planning Guide.
For me, I narrowed it down to Tanzania because I was also interested in culture. I thought maybe Kenya would be a bit too touristy.
I, like you, have always loved a little adventure and a little luxury thrown in, but I discovered luxury doesn't come as cheap in Africa as it does in South east Asia!
In any case, I finally took my first trip this past February and I booked it with Mark Thornton Safaris since I read great things about him and he is known for his walking safaris. It was AMAZING!!!!
I did a private safari with 2 friends and it was all comfortable, but we couldn't afford the luxury of a place like Ngorongoro Crater Lodge LOL. BUT it didn't matter. It was one of the most incredible trips I've ever taken in my life. I understand now why the people on this board are so passionate about Africa. I dream of going back again, and personally would love to book Mark for my next trip because of some of the unique things he offers. We just loved the trip he planned for us and how he did his best to avoid really 'touristy' stops along the way (although, admittedly, this is not always avoidable in Tanzania!). I keep saying I'm going to write up a trip report , but i've been so busy with work since I returned that I haven't had a chance.
In any case, I thought Tanzania was a perfect introduction to African safaris! I was blown away by the beauty of the country.
Happy to answer any questions until I write up that trip report, but again, you are in the right place with the right people on this board!
good luck!
Wanderfilms is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 01:26 PM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,925
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Will! When I started planning our trip Lynn pointed me to this helpful website where you can see the game levels at various times of the year - if you have a specific time of year you have to go then that does factor into your location decision - here is the link

http://www.africa-adventure.com/best_time_to_go

We spent just under 2 weeks in Tanzania/Rwanda earlier this year and then about 6 days in Botswana (Chobe area) and loved it.

We found a guide based in Arusha whose name we say in the same sentence as Tong's - Felix was fantastic and can work with you the way Tong does in Bangkok (plus book hotels, etc) - here's a link to our trip report here (with blog links) - email me if you want more info.

eseibertca AT yahoo DOT ca

http://www.fodors.com/community/afri...t-174346-2.cfm
Elizabeth_S is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 03:13 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Welcome to the Africa board!

Many great pieces of advice and links to get you started.

<b>-We like a bit of mix of places to stay--definitely like some luxury mixed in. But budget is definitely not unlimited</b>

You can easily get this combo. As others have hinted, can you give us a range of your budget?

Some sites have prices:

Good Earth
Eastern and Southern
The Africa Adventure Company
Go2Africa
Overseas Adventure Travel
Eyes on Africa
2Afrika

Check out some of those to get an idea of costs.

<b>-We're huge animal lovers--so anything that allows for hands-on (well not with things that might bite our hands off) experiences with animals we're all about</b>

As SV cautions, no walking with lions. In most of Africa, if you are a huge animal fan, you will be content to observe from a prudent distance. That is best for the animals you love and admire. I did do some volunteering at Ngamba, a Jane Goodall Chimp Sanctuary in Uganda that allowed for contact with young chimps who had been rescued from bad situations and were living in a wild setting, but were no longer wild. That place has integrity and you needed an incredible amount of medical proof you were healthy in order to go, but most hands-on is not ideal for the animals.


<b>-We like walks and hiking so a little bit of adventure is always a good thing</b>
Zambia and Zimbabwe are noted for walking safaris. You can arrange them in other places as well, usually outside the park. Make that known up front.


<b>-We like to move--don't like to stay too long in one place.</b>
That certainly can be arranged, although most of us (me included) advocate sticking around one place for awhile to spend time in the park rather than darting from one park to another. Enroute you are usually on a highway or in a plane and not seeing much wildlife. Botswana's Okavango is an exception, where the flights can be spectacular.

If you are willing to move, then a group mobile safari or other group trip may work out for you. There are pricing advantages to group travel, but one of the disadvantages for many of us is the itinerary zips around too much. Not so for you.

You might still opt for a private trip, though, because in Africa it is not that expensive and you can do exactly the itinerary you want.

To narrow your focus, for 2 weeks either Kenya/Tanzania or South Africa and maybe Botswana are typical first time destinations. Depends on how committed you are to do lots of hiking. If that's paramount, go to Zambia or Zimbabwe.
atravelynn is offline  
Old May 4th, 2010, 04:59 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Will! What took you so long? Once you catch 'Africa' fever, there's no going back.Regardless of which route you take, you can't go wrong. Africa casts a different spell from SEA, but is just as bewitching if not more so. Don't say you weren't warned!
Femi is offline  
Old May 5th, 2010, 03:01 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Glad to see you over here Will.

All good advice above. For me, for its sheer abundance of wildlife, varied and beautiful geography and glorious peopleless wilderness, Botswana is the place for me. It can be pricey because many of the lodges of luxurious and remote, but it has top notch guiding (a big plus). You could add on Victoria Falls and Chobe National Park. I hven't been to East Africa but you can probably do it much more cheaply. However the less touristed places are more my cuppa.
Search Botswana and read some trip reports. Also check out the Premiere Tours Web site for lower airfares if you aren't using FF miles.
LAleslie is offline  
Old May 5th, 2010, 03:22 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I've been a "lurker" here for a while and Shay Tay and atravelynn especially (as well as others) have been nice enough to answer some questions I've posted. I saw a post that I printed (sorry cut off the "credit line") who posted some questions that might help you too. I printed it and handed it to my DH to answer:

To set goals need to know:
-Most variety of animals?
-See the Wildebeest/Zebra Migration?
-Certain species you hope to see?
-Want to visit 2 countries - both Kenya and Tanzania?
-Don't mind missing view of Kilimanjaro?
-Want to see World Heritage site of Ngorongoro Crater?
-Is your preference to drive or fly or both?
-Are you looking at a private trip for just your party or ist his a group trip?
-Would you like to include some tented camps?

These quesitons helped us. Now I'm going to be e-mailing some of the companies atravelyn has mentioned here for some ideas. I've been so overwhelmed in looking at so many of the posts and reports that I have come to realize that for us, what I want is someone else to plan the itinerary based on our answers!
patandhank is offline  
Old May 5th, 2010, 03:38 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,500
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Another vote for the Great Migration, preferably in the Maasai Mara. Botswana and Namibia are certainly splendid but I thought the migration was absolutely incredible, even if we weren't the only people out there. A Kenya/Tanzania combo makes for an excellent first safari.
Marija is offline  
Old May 6th, 2010, 12:38 PM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Maybe one more tip regarding East Africa:
I have just learned there are parks in Kenya which differentiate park fees for low/high season from 2011 making it more expensive during peak season - e.g. migration:
low season remains 60 US$pppd but increases to 90 for high season. So you might take that also into consideration.

Happy Planning!

SV
spassvogel is offline  
Old May 6th, 2010, 02:19 PM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,675
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
SV -

Even daily room/tent rates are higher in peak season and currently (let alone what will/will not be for 2011) daily park/conservancy fees already range between $40-$100+/day. So, unless, OP is traveling on a very very tight budget, when traveling in low-season is to their advantage, would the difference cause them change their plans?
sandi is offline  
Old May 6th, 2010, 02:58 PM
  #19  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
<i>I have just learned there are parks in Kenya which differentiate park fees for low/high season from 2011 making it more expensive during peak season - e.g. migration:
low season remains 60 US$pppd but increases to 90 for high season.</i>

Which specific parks/reserves/conservancies? I'm assuming Mara region since you mention migration.
Patty is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tinydancer
Africa & the Middle East
76
Mar 11th, 2010 03:40 PM
Travcarib
Africa & the Middle East
5
Jul 23rd, 2007 05:13 PM
kari92037
Africa & the Middle East
8
Mar 17th, 2006 06:46 AM
didibobi
Africa & the Middle East
11
Dec 8th, 2005 12:02 PM
Aarti
Africa & the Middle East
18
May 27th, 2002 06:14 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -