Current Safety Situation?

Old Nov 6th, 2008, 11:14 AM
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Current Safety Situation?

My husband and I are currently scheduled to visit the gorillas in Rwanda next week (!!!), but have been hearing about the rebel fighting just over the hill in eastern Congo. Should we be worried? Should we cancel? Has anyone of you out there been there recently or are there now? If so, please let us know what the situation is like and if you think it is safe. We really really really want to go, but safety first! Thanks so much!
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Old Nov 6th, 2008, 11:58 AM
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Hi Demi,

We were there a week ago and went on two gorilla treks. It sounds like the situation is changing, so I really can't speak to whether it is safe or not, or if you should cancel. If you do decide to go, you should try to find a way to monitor the situation while you are there (talk to your tour operator about how to do this, see if there is internet access at your hotel, etc.). You might need to make a decision on the spot.

I can tell you what we experienced. When we arrived at the border at 7pm on October 28th(driving in from Uganda), it was closed early and we were not able to cross until the next morning. Also, one of the hotels our group was supposed to stay at in Musanze ended up being changed, due to the influx of refugees from the DRC. We saw a lot of refugees (hundreds, at least) walking and waiting along the roadsides on our drive from Musanze to Kigali. During our gorilla treks our guides never mentioned the situation, and nothing seemed unusual at the time. We did notice that we had only 2 armed guards with us on our first trek (to Group 13, which was a long one), and then 6 armed guards (who were introduced to us as "recently returning from Darfur") on our second day, to the Umubano group (a much shorter hike). I don't know if that's in any way significant, or if there is a standard number of guards who usually accompany the groups.

We did not have much information at all at the time about what was happening in the Congo, but in general we never felt unsafe. Perhaps if I had known more about what was going on over the border, I might have felt differently. On our last day we met with the manager of the Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project, and she was extremely concerned about their staff (and the gorillas) in the DRC, understandably so.

I hope this is at least a little helpful to you. If you do decide to go, just be ready to be flexible if necessary.
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Old Nov 6th, 2008, 07:12 PM
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Hi Demi,

Nicky (my wife) and Vanessa (works here) were with the gorillas just this morning...

They loved it and said all seemed quite calm... Nothing is certain of course and these situations can change, but I can tell you that they loved everything about their experience, so I hope you will go and come back with wonderful memories.

James
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Old Nov 6th, 2008, 07:39 PM
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The reports from the field are most helpful.

When I look at the US State Dept warnings and advisories, which tend to be cautious, I see nothing new on Rwanda that would discourage you. Kenya has had some form of warning for maybe a decade now.

I agree safety first. I am going to Uganda/Rwanda in August. At this point, I would go and let your ground operator know of your concerns and that you want to call it quits at any hint of danger. Any reputable ground operator wants no problem and likely would take the same approach.

Let us know.
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Old Nov 6th, 2008, 11:42 PM
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Thank you so much MyDogKyle, James and atravelynn! It is a relief to hear that you have been or know someone who has been there so recently. I have been trying to find mention of recent trips by others on the forum and have not been successful. Maybe my search criteria is off?

I have been checking the US Dept's travel site, and breathe a huge sigh of relief when I see nothing! I have also emailed our tour operator there, and he says it is fine so far. It has been a roller coaster of anticipation and trepidation as we prepare for our trip and think about finally seeing the gorillas and then reading about the unfolding events. But I will definitely write back and let you all know how (hopefully how wonderful) our trip was!

Currently the plan is to have our driver swing by the US Embassy in Rwanda if possible so we know where it is if need be. Other than that... any ideas on how else to be prepared?

We will be staying at Gorilla Nest Lodge the first two nights (for two gorilla hikes), then stay at the Kivu Sun Hotel the third night so that we can go on a morning boat ride on Lake Kivu the next morning prior to flying out to Tanzania, our next destination.

Have any of you or anyone else on the forum stayed at either the Gorilla Next Lodge or Kivu Sun Hotel before? Any idea if either of those places are near to the fighting?? Or do you know if they have internet access? At least that way we can monitor the situation each day online.

Thanks again!



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Old Nov 7th, 2008, 06:05 AM
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Hi Demi,

According to what Nicky told me on phone yesterday (from Kigali), Rwanda are in process of signing a contract to get coverage for Blackberry there, but it is still in works.

She uses her Blackberry all over Kenya and TZ (for the most part), but it was not functional in Rwanda.

Nicky did a site visit of Gorilla's Nest couple days ago, but she stayed at Sabyinyo. Sabyinyo much nicer.

Cheers,
James
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Old Nov 7th, 2008, 09:37 AM
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Hi Demi,

We stayed at La Palme Hotel and Kinigi Guest House, both on the more budget end of the spectrum and both very clean and comfortable. Neither had internet access when we were there. Both places felt perfectly safe during our stay. Gorilla's Nest looked like it was in a great location, not far from the trekking office, and since they are pricier perhaps they have more services, like internet.

I think it's always a good idea to keep an eye on the U.S. State Dept's travel warnings (as Lynn pointed out, they tend to be conservative). I also like to check out other countries' travel warnings for some perspective (U.K., Australia, etc.). Unless someone from the DRC side decides to actually attack Rwanda, you are not going to be where the fighting is... it's probably more a question of whether the situation will impact your trip in other ways -- hotel changes, or any changes they might decide to make to the gorilla trekking itself, depending on where the gorillas are at the time. I suppose it's possible that they might decide a certain gorilla group is in a location where they should not be visited, for instance. But on the whole, I imagine that folks in Rwanda are going to do what they can to keep the gorilla trekking situation functioning as normal, since it is so important to conservation and to their economy.

Keeping basic safety in mind (and realizing that the situation will continue to change and evolve), I really hope the problems in the DRC don't cause a bunch of cancellations for gorilla trekkers, since it is such a wonderful experience (and important for the gorillas' own well-being). I would rank our first gorilla trek as one of the best experiences of my life. I hope you have a wonderful trip and get to experience that magic, too. Please let us know how it goes.


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Old Nov 7th, 2008, 10:19 AM
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I wanted to post a website for those of you interested in following the situation in the Congo and how it's impacting the mountain gorillas:

Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project
http://www.gorilladoctors.org/

This includes Dr. Lucy Spelman's excellent blog, as well as lots of information about the gorilla doctors and their work, and how you can help them. Dr. Spelman spent some time talking with our Zoo group when we were in Rwanda, and her group is simply amazing. I'm so grateful to them. Please check it out.
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Old Nov 7th, 2008, 08:04 PM
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I stayed at Gorilla's Nest. I thought it was very good, the food was fine, and the resident flock of crowned cranes was outstanding. The rooms can be a little cold but you can request a pot of burning coals for heat. I never did, but we used the pots under our dining tables.

If your shower squeals, let your guide or the hotel staff know. You might even request another room if you notice that problem, which used to be common.

The location of Gorilla's Nest is nice and close to the ranger station. Only about a 10 minute drive.

When I was there in 2004, there was a border flareup that made the other 4 people I was going to share a vehicle with cancel at the last minute. I didn't even know about it because I was already in Africa and not getting news. While in Rwanda, at Gorilla's Nest, or on the treks, I detected no problems at all, despite the stories I read in the papers when I got back.

We had numerous military members with us for tracking. We all rode a bus to where the tracking started so it was easy to tell there were about 15 military guys, plus trackers, porters, etc.

Good idea to swing by the embassy.

The poor people of Eastern Congo have had years of conflict. They could use a break from it.
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Old Nov 8th, 2008, 12:25 AM
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Thank you all for your responses! You have certainly put me more at ease - just having some sort of 'connection' helps, you know? =)

This is actually the very first time I've posted anything anywhere, so not quite sure on the etiquette... would you mind if I morph this thread into a Q&A on prepping for Rwanda and the gorilla trek? Or should I create a new thread?

In the meantime, I'll go ahead and ask. =D

James, mind if I ask what is your wife doing in Rwanda? Just visiting as well? I'm wondering, in the happy case that we are able to see the gorillas and find them relatively quickly, what else is there to do around the area? We would love to visit the Mountain Gorilla Vet Project, if possible (thanks MyDogKyle!). And thanks atravelynn, for letting me know about Gorilla Nest. Very good to know. I'll probably preemptively ask them to put me in a room with a non squealing shower!

Any advice you all can give me for Rwanda would be wonderful!

Murakoze! (or would they say Asante Sana?!)
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Old Nov 9th, 2008, 05:04 AM
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In case James does not see this, he and his wife are in the Africa travel business. In fact I've used their company with great success.

The gorilla vet project sounds interesting. Can you elaborate? Something I might find interesting as well.

There are other hikes that I have not done--to Dian Fossey's grave and to some waterfalls. But those require a morning departure, I believe.

You could visit a village or school. I know that is an option that has been presented to me.

Here are some gorilla links

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...4&tid=34863680

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...4&tid=35094525

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...4&tid=34863680

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...4&tid=35094525

You may want to bring some Dr. Scholl’s (sp?) moleskin or just bandaids in case the steep terrain rubs your feet against your shoes and causes discomfort or blisters. The steep hills can make shoes rub in places they don't rub on other terrain.



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Old Nov 10th, 2008, 08:46 AM
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Hi guys,

A little more info about the Mountain Gorilla Vet Project...

I posted the website on this thread because I thought it might be another source of information about the current situation in Rwanda and Congo, and also because I figured gorilla-minded people on this board who hadn't found the site already would enjoy looking at it. Unfortunately, I don't think it's usually possible for people to visit the project while in Rwanda. I was there with the Conservation Manager and other members of the zoo where I do volunteer work, and we had a special arrangement to meet with Dr. Spelman and learn about the vet project (one of several organizations we visited in Uganda & Rwanda on this trip). I'm sorry if my information was misleading!

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Old Nov 11th, 2008, 01:01 AM
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Ahh.... I did visit the links you provided, MDK. Very interesting to read. The situation there is extremely sad and frustrating. I had just completed reading Land of a Thousand Hills... and the troubles they experienced relatively long ago are repeating again now! In fact, at one point, I read a page in the book... and then read pretty much the same story on the internet about the movements of the fighters up in Goma now! Do we not ever learn from history?!

Sorry, it's getting really late for me (and I still need to pack!!!).

But it's a shame we can't visit the Project. Of course I understand why... they've got a job to do without tourists underfoot! But I do find that allowing tourists to be exposed to this sort of endeavor can be very beneficial... in terms of increased public understanding as well as monetary support! PR and all that. =)

Well, I will be there in *GULP* 3 days! So please wish me luck and I will report back.

Thanks all!
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Old Nov 11th, 2008, 08:41 AM
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Demi, have a wonderful trip! Visiting the gorillas is like nothing else in the world... You're going to love it.

Since you're packing, here are the things I found most useful for the gorilla treks: rain pants (for the mud), waterproof hiking boots, heavy gardening gloves, long sleeve shirt (for the nettles) over a short sleeve shirt (so you can vary what you're wearing depending on the heat). We were fully prepared for rain, and instead had two glorious, warm, sunny days... but there was still deep mud to contend with. Wear long enough socks that you can tuck your pants in (against ants), or bring big rubber bands to put around your pant legs. These are all suggestions you'll find on other threads here, of course, but we really did think the rain pants were fantastic! I also liked having a small pocket camera that was easy to pull out for snaps along the hike, while our "serious" SLR camera and video camera were packed away in the backpack with the porter. We also brought extra snacks and shared them with the trackers and porters (the trackers are out there all day long and were especially glad to have some drinks and food).

Something I haven't seen mentioned too often is that you should bring along enough cash to tip the trackers up on the mountain (in addition to your porter and guide). Our first gorilla trek we had 2 guides, 1 porter and 3 trackers; our second trek we had 1 guide, 1 porter and 3 trackers. The guides told our group we should not tip the armed guards. The gorillas don't accept tips, either.

Best of luck, and have a great trip!!
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Old Nov 11th, 2008, 03:17 PM
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Have a fantastic trip!
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Old Nov 11th, 2008, 09:21 PM
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Oh please oh please oh please let us too have sunny days!!! Thanks for your tips, MDK! I just got some extra power bars for our porters... but you're right. I've spent much time culling through the forum and web in gen, and you're the first I've heard who has mentioned the trackers!! Where'd they come from?! j/k. Um, so how much would you recommend tipping the trackers? And when do you do that? After you all come down from the mountain? Or do they stay up there? Thanks!
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Old Nov 12th, 2008, 06:51 AM
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demi - if I remember correctly, we stayed at the Kivu Sun our final nights in Rwanda. Lake Kivu is on the border of Congo and not very far from Goma.
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Old Nov 12th, 2008, 09:21 AM
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The trackers stay up on the mountain, so you would tip them after you visit the gorillas and before you head back down (our guide let us know when it was appropriate). You'll pay and tip your porter at the end of the trek, and tip your guide(s) at the end, too. Based on the recommendation of our guide, we tipped each tracker the equivalent of about $2-3. In general, we found that people preferred to get their tips in Rwandan francs rather than dollars, especially for small bills. It was fine to use a $20 bill to pay the porter.
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Old Nov 12th, 2008, 12:56 PM
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"Oh please oh please oh please let us too have sunny days!!! "

If you have clouds and overcast skies, even some rain, your photos may actually turn out better. The bright sun and the black animals can be tricky photographically. I had cloud free skies for my last visits and a pro photographer who went on a couple of them was complaining about poor shots. He was so unhappy that he planned to return later when it would likely be rainier.
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Old Nov 15th, 2008, 08:39 AM
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I just did my gorilla trek on 11/10 and left Rwanda on 11/11. Rwanda seems to be pretty on top of the situation and I don't think the fighting will spill over the boarder as the rumor is the rebel leader has a bit of a relationship with the Rwanda president who would not want his tourism impacted.

What I noticed was a lot of UN/relief trucks and reporters/photographers traveling through Rwanda to get to Congo, but nothing else was evident on the Rwanda side.

They do have armed guards with you on your trek. When we were with Group 13, we asked how far we were from the Congo and our guide responded 20km...and over 40km to the fighting. And that is at 10,000 feet, through muddy rainforest which is a nasty hike.

Hope you enjoyed it!
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