isabel25

I did it! I changed my return flight from SA to allow five nights in Botswana (or Botswana/Victoria Falls) at the end of my trip in mid-July. I'm now trying to figure out how to use this extra time. There seems to be plenty of options open, but I know the final choice will come down to what's available. But I'd like to get views on the IDEAL use of that time.

Here are the parameters:

The super-high end places (Mombo, Jao) are out; we're looking at the next level down from that (WS Classic Camps, CC Africa camps, Mapula), but we still like a little luxury in the bush.

Design, food, etc. matter to me, probably more so than to others on this board. We chose Mala Mala on the basis of game-viewing alone; for the Botswana component of the trip, game viewing is still important, but I'm willing to sacrifice a bit on game-viewing if necessary for the beauty of the setting or the specialness of the camp in other respects.

I'd like experiences that complement (and that are a little different from) the rest of our itinerary; We're spending four nights in Phinda, six nights at MalaMala, and three nights in Cape Town. I'm thinking that three of the Botswana nights should be in the Delta, but what camps? What should we do with the remaining two nights? One idea is Victoria Falls; I haven't explored that one at all; don't know anything about the options.

Finally, does anyone have suggestions for how to make good use of the transit day? I can't figure out a way to get from Mala Mala to Maun in a single day, so that means an overnight in the Johannesburg area. How should we use that day? I have a twelve year old daughter. Possible ideas are (1) hiring a car/driver from Mala Mala to J'Berg via the Panorama route, with a stop along the way for a hike; (2) car/driver from Mala Mala to Chimp Eden (the Jane Goodall Chimp Sanctuary), and catching an early evening flight from Nelspruit to J'Berg afterward; (3) flying from Mala Mala to J'Berg and going to the de Wilde Cheetah sanctuary (not sure the timing works on this); or (4) going to the Cultural Village near J'Berg (not sure what it is called). Any thoughts on these choices, or other suggestions? And where should we stay in J'Berg? An airport hotel depresses me, but as a resting point between our game viewing, we'll probably be in the mood for a movie on tv and room service anyway.

pippa13

isabel25

okay - you are going for the luxury...whould fly federal from mala mala to
http://www.thesaxon.com/
joburg-sandhurst
absolutely divine! would let me spoil there e.g. in the spa. they also have a fantastic infinity pool for the doughter ;-)

fly out to maun next day and further to eagle island camp and savute elephant camp 2 nts each or stay in eagle island camp/khwai river camp the full 4 nts.

happy planning!

pippa13

http://www.orient-express.com/web/lu...ys/safaris.jsp

that's the link to OE!

atravelynn

More time is better.

From the 5 Paw Wilderness camps I've stayed in and the 5- Paw that has since been upgraded, I think you will find charm and luxury, with each in its own special setting. I have found a wow factor of some sort in every camp.

Little Vumbura has a short boat ride to get to camp, adding to the specialness of it, plus it's on its own island. You could do land and water activities and wildlife viewing there.

I'd do 2 LV and 3 at Savuti Camp or Duma Tau. The sequence Pippa suggested would be similar areas under different management--those camps are Orient Express I believe, which would make a great trip.

Mapula really has my interest. Never been.

If you wanted to combine Vic Falls for 2 nts and a Botswana camp, I'd make the Botswana camp a delta camp like Little Vumbura, Mapula, Eagle Island.

HariS

Can't answer you question of luxurious camps in the wilderness areas of Botswana outside of the 6 paw - i thought those were created for the luxury market. Almost, every camp i have been to have been unique in it's own way and more than enough to meet my needs. I only return to a couple of specific ones as gameviewing is most important and my friendships with guides and staff is the tipping point towards that decision.

Anyways, my point of this post was - if you get to spend 4 nights in Phinda and 6 nights in MM - my suggestion would be to focus all 5 nights in one Botswana camp instead of shutting around. What camp you pick, obviously comes down to availability at this point - best to check with your agent.

Cheers
Hari

HariS

Typo - shuttling (sorry)

PredatorBiologist

Isabel: this is great news, I'm happy for you!

Obviously you will want time in the Delta and definitely should stay at a camp where you can do a mokoro ride and get a feel for the environment. Architecture, luxury etc. along with game viewing you will love Mapula. On food though I would mention that it is the only camp I have been to where they really put a local slant on the menu which makes it quite different than the westernized meals that are served at most camps. I'm not a super adventurous eater and liked it all fine with a couple of dishes outstanding but since food is a consideration for you I thought I'd throw that out there as it might not work as well for some people. If that is an issue Little Vumbura would be outstanding and offer the same things, just at a couple hundred dollars more per night. I believe Kwetsani is also known for its very nice accommodation and excellent food with mekoros available but I think the game viewing is typically a notch below Mapula and Little Vumbura.

Beyond the Delta I tried to think of new experiences beyond what you will have done in South Africa. Top things I can think of:

1) Have a walk or interaction with the bushmen. I know of nothing more profound than learning from the 'first people' on earth. Deception Valley Lodge or camps on the Makgadikgadi Pans.

2) Quad biking and meerkats on the Makgadikgadi Pans. Racing along on the quad bikes over the expansive nothingness of the pans is exhilirating and the meerkats is about as close of an interactive experience directly with animals in the wild that you are going to find.

3) Doing a proper walking safari at Linyanti Bush Camp. They do 3 night walking from camp to camp but I think with a two night stay you could probably do a drive and a walk each day from the main camp.

I would imagine your 12 year old would get the most out of going to the Makgadikgadi Pans region where you could have a bushmen experience, visit meerkats, and ride the quad bikes -- all very different from the rest of your trip. There are 3 camps on the pans, Uncharted Africa operates Jacks, which is pretty expensive ($1,000 pppn), and San ($650 pppn). There is an independent camp called Makgadikgadi Camp that is ($475 pppn) where I have stayed but I am not sure if they visit the habituated meerkats or not. Their tents and beds are very comfortable but it is basic so might not be what you are looking for.

Deception Valley Lodge has wonderful chalets and top shelf food so you would like that but you would only get the bushman experience there, no quad bikes or meerkats. They do have awesome leopards though!

As for your Joburg transit day I would think taking a tour of the Soweto Township would make a lasting impression on your daughter as well as you. Also, seeing chimps would be remarkable. I'm not sure how seeing them in a facility is but I would think that has great potential as well.

Kavey

There are a number of camps I've enjoyed that might fit the bill.

Of the WS 5 paw camps my favourites (from a 2004 trip) are Jacana and Tubu Tree. Jacana is a water-camp (depending on time of travel, I think it should still be so in mid-July). Tubu Tree is nearby and offers land-based activities, but when the waters are high, you can also take a short drive from the camp to the waters and do a water activity.

Both are listed as 5 paw but the tents in Tubu Tree are more spacious and I'd probably rate them as 5.5 paw myself! They don't have the extended footprint of 6 paw tents which is certainly beautiful but then again you don't spend that much time in the tents anyway.

We found the management and staff teams in these two camps particularly warm, friendly and efficient and the food in both was good. Not fine dining in style but certainly well prepared, tasty and enjoyable.

Of course, I have no idea if the same teams are there now.

I'd also recommend Jack's Camp or, if that's out of budget, the sister camp, San. When we booked our 2004 trip (back in 2002) San was described as having rather more basic facilities but sometime before our trip both were upgraded in terms of running water and also the tents - as Jack's tents were replaced, the old Jack's tents were used to upgrade San. So if looking at reviews of San make sure you are only looking at those from last few years.

Jack's is a special experience indeed and I cannot recommend it highly enough.

isabel25

My excitement level is rising -- this is GREAT advice. I love the idea of combining the Delta and the Makgadikgadi Pans. The opportunity to walk with the Bushmen is really what sold me on the latter (with the meerkats being an added bonus). (Not so sure about the quad bikes -- from a mother's perspective, they look fun but scary.)

Based on these recommendations, I've checked out the websites and the trip reports/photos. In the Delta, we've narrowed it down to Little Vumbura, Mapula or Kwetsani. We expect to get final word on availability on Monday. In the desert, we're going to try for Jack's -- it's another splurge but one that looks well worth it!! Haven't had word on this one yet about whether availability is even possible here; we're also looking into Deception Valley Lodge and San Camp.

So, if it all works out, we'll have three nights in the Delta and two in the desert to cap off our Southern African Odessey. (With only two nights in the desert, the quad-bike debate will likely not even arise, and thus I will not have to be the heavy on the last day of our family vacation).

I have a question for PB and others who have gone to both Jack's and Deception Valley Lodge. I noticed that at DVL the Bushmen guides wore traditional garb, while at Jack's they wore modern clothing. Is the traditional clothing still part of Bushmen culture, in settings outside of tourist interactions? I love the idea of the traditional attire if that is an authentic part of their culture -- and it might even tip the scales toward DVL -- but if it a costume put on to entertain tourists, the traditional attire might detract rather than enhance the experience. Would love to hear your thoughts!

PacoAhedo

Hello Isabel,

Little Kwara is another camp you can consider in the Delta ,with luxury accomodation(more than i need).Huge tent with huge bed,nice bath and wonderful outside shower BUT most important excellent area for wildlife viewing.
Also water activities,mokoro and boat to the Godikwe Lagoon to see the bird breeding colonies.

The idea of combining the delta with the desert sounds way better TO ME than going 2 days to Vic Falls.

Paco.

pippa13

isabel,

if you decide on jack's you should be prepared that the quad bikes definately come up at one point as this is one of the major activities there - it's safe enough and you all get sincere instructions. even your family is not going to go for it: other guests do it and that might arise some needs for you to explain to your doughter your reluctance ;-)
regarding the bushmen clothing:
when we did the bushmen walk at jack's in 2004 they all (3 of them) were wearing traditional clothing - no modern stuff.

regarding your decision whether to opt for jack's or DVL: very different experiences! completely different products!

isabel25

Thanks, Pippa!

Interesting comment about the difference between DVL and Jack's; they seemed quite similar to me based on the tiny bit I've read. How would you describe the differences? The more detail the better!

Also, the Saxon looks beautiful and might be the perfect place for a relaxing night between game lodges/ camps.

Kavey

I've not been to DVL.

The bushmen that work at Jack's Camp in roles such as guides, cooks and other staff wear regular clothes.

The bushmen who take visitors on bush walks and teach a little of their folklore, what they eat, other uses for plants, how they create traps and so on dress traditionally.

I don't know whether or not they do this outside of the activities they lead for visitors but we were told that they appreciate the opportunity to teach others their culture and that it provides an economical reason for younger generations to learn the traditional ways which they were no longer keen to do without this impetus.

pippa13

isabel
DVL: chalets connected by board walk, great food, great ambiance - BUT CHALETS
good gamedrives but not spectacular

jack's: huge tents with persian rugs, 4 posterbeds, stunning ambiance throughout incl. marvelous messtent.
actually the quad rides are fantastic! you dress like a "tuareg" and drives this unbelievable wide pan. you get close encounters with the meercats - they have a biologist who studies the meercats means the animals are very habituated regarding humans; one sits down and they approach up to 10 cm or even further ;-)
they do excellent lectures during game drives and quad rides on the pan how it established itself, hostory etc. etc. you even can find stone age old tools....
if you are lucky you also see brown hyenas!
they do sundowners in the middle of the pan which is an experience in itself!!! and after evening game drive/quad ride you approach the camp and you are just overwhelmed by the sight - how it looks like.
have never seen such a spectacular camp site!
it cost's a fortune but is worthwhile every penny! at least for us it's always tempting to return!
the staff is also very approaching! makes you feel like a friend and not a paying guest!

isabel25

Do they have two-seater quad bikes at Jack's? I'm not an overly cautious parent -- my daughter surfs, skateboards, snowboards, etc. -- but I can't imagine allowing her to drive a quad bike, especially in the middle of nowhere! And without a helmet! How much of the experience would we miss out on if we didn't want to ride the quad bikes? Would it still be worth going to Jack's? I love the idea of the Bushmen walk, and the pictures of Jack's look amazing, but I don't like the idea of those quad bikes.

PredatorBiologist

Isabel: two people can fit on the quad bikes no problem. A guide will lead the way and typically you ride single file to minimize the impacts. The area is flat and empty so while fun it is not technical or difficult in anyway. I have ridden a quad bike 300 miles on a project in the western USA and at times it was difficult and dangerous but the pans are a fun and easy place to ride and perfectly appropriate for novices. That said if you are not comfortable just don't do it. In a game drive vehicle you can see the same specatular scenery driving the edges of the pans and with a bushmen walk and the meerkats you will have a full experience, you just miss the adrenaline thrill of exploring the wilderness in a non-typical way and you probably will not go deep into a pan like you can on the quad bikes.

My experience with bushman dress is what Kavey said. The bushmen only wear their traditional clothes for the walk experience and indeed they do it by choice not requirement. They are proud of their culture which is tragically disappearing so they want to share it with others and teach it to the younger bushmen who never truly led the life of the land.

As for a comparison of Deception Valley Lodge and the Makgadikgadi area: Deception Valley Lodge has much much more varied game viewing, especially of large predators than the Makgadikgadi Pan area camps but that is largely because it is a more vegetated environment. The Makgadikgadi Pan area provides the more expansive landscape with dramatic solitude. A day trip from DVL into the Central Kalahari Game Reserve can provide a sense of vastness but with a 2 night stay you would not have a chance to do that and it is not the best time of year to enter the CKGR anyway. It seems like for your tastes Jack's Camp is the best spot for the time of year.

HariS

I fully agree with Paco's assessment of Little Kwara. However, one huge plus of LK is the great staff over there. That to me is far more important than the fancy gourmet cuisine or design aesthetics.

Londonres

Another Okavango camp to consider is Duba Plains. It's small, very friendly, luxurious and great for birds, lions, hyenas and elephants and its remote. It's generally regarded as a dry camp, but mokoro trips are available during the time that you will be in Botswana.

atravelynn

Duba Plains would be great for a delta option. But I would not spend less than 4 nts at Duba because if the lions are in an area inaccessible to vehicles, you may need a day or two to wait for them to return. Duba is beautiful and I saw many bat eared foxes, a couple of aardwolves, a few eles, great birds, and a couple of servals, but the main attraction is the lion-buffalo interaction. Duba has a more narrow focus than other camps. The lion-buff interaction is unique here and well worth it. Duba costs more than the average 5-paw camp, when I was there. I can't wait to go back to Duba.

I'd suggest San over Jack's in the pans. Activities are exactly the same, San has a better view IMO and is smaller. You also metnioned trying to curtail high end places and Jack's is more expensive than San. I'd return to San.

You have lots of fine options to choose from.

isabel25

Thanks, everyone! Now I'm just working on availability issues, and have a few more questions.

First, my top choices among the Wilderness Safari camps are booked, but with "provisional" bookings. Any idea of whether those are likely to clear? (We're traveling in July of this year.) Does it matter who your travel agent is in snagging those provisional spots when they open up? Any tips for dealing with this?

And ATRAVELLYN (and others), I have a question about San Camp. It looks gorgeous and magical on the website -- a total fantasy of what a safari camp should be. But, wuss that I am, I'm wondering about the level of rusticity (rustic-ness?). The big issue for me are the bathrooms. Does San camp have bucket showers only? And, hate to ask, but what about the loos? Are there any other things about the relative comfort level at San that non-campers like me should know?

Jack's is totally booked, so that is out.

And airline tickets from J'Burg to Maun and back are harder to come by than I'd imagined. I'm relatively optimistic about this one, though.