What shouldn't I miss with 2 weeks in Morocco?

Old Jun 10th, 2007, 06:32 AM
  #21  
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Hi,

thanks for your suggestions. I'm taking a night off Casablanca.

I'm only staying in Casablanca for 01 night right after arriving and 01 night before leaving Morocco.

I'll stay for four nights in Fes instead of three. I'll use Fes as a base to visit Volubilis in the afternoon.

Totally Clifton, I'd posted a message about Romania the same day I posted this one. I decided to go to Morocco this year and leave Romania for some other time. I usually go to Europe, but I want to experience something different this year.

Clifton, how long did you stay in Marrakech? You said "Marrakech was a first-site WOW and the first day or two was fun, but... " What did you manage to do those first two days in Marrakech. I'm going to stay only for 3 nights so I'd like ideas on what not to miss those only 2 full days I'll have in Marrakech. I'm not interested in museums or gardens. I'd like to wander through the medina and the souks, and visit the main square and mosque.

By the way, the desert pictures are breathtaking! The thing is that I can't spend more than 12 nights in Morocco. I hate having to spend 2 nights in Casablanca (after arriving and before leaving), but I have no other option. I'll spend 13 hours on the plane from Caracas to Casablanca via Milan, and I seriously don't think I'll have the energy to take a 4 hour train right afterwards. I'd be too tired to visit Fes the following day. I want to use that first night in Casablanca to settle down and rest before taking the train to Fes the following day. Unfortunately, there aren't morning flights from Essaouira to Casablanca, otherwise I wouldn't have to spend another night in Casablanca right before leaving Morocco.
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Old Jun 10th, 2007, 09:17 AM
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Clifton,

Thanks for the information on Azrou. We may have driven through from Fes to Erfoud. I remember the cedar forests.

My Cadogan suggests the following Azrou hotels, do any ring a bell?
Panorama, Cedres (9 rooms), Hotel Beausejour.

Agree that one night in the desert is enough and the reminders that "you're not in Kansas," such as the donkeys delivering cases of coca cola in the medina in Fes. Or passing a nomad family leading their laden camels and donkeys along the side of the road in the Atlas.

Your post wasn't too long, good info for all interested in Morocco.
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Old Jun 10th, 2007, 10:21 AM
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Hi,

Is it true that most things are closed on Friday in the medina in Fes?

Why is that? Is it in all cities in Morocco or just in Fes? What about Sundays?

Thanks.
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Old Jun 10th, 2007, 10:40 AM
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Friday is the holy day, like the Sabbath for the Jews and Sunday for the Christians. The main prayer is around 12:30pm and it is true that most things in Fes medina will close down from about noon until 4 or 5 pm. Some shops will not open again after the prayer. Still, it is a nice time to visit the souks, as they are less crowded and much calmer.
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Old Jun 10th, 2007, 01:58 PM
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Some places are open Friday morning, but beware as we got stuck going back to Dar Seffarine as there are gates which are locked in two places on the main thoroughfare close to the Bab R'cif entrance just past the Dar. We had perfected the route from Bab R'cif to the Blue Gate over a couple of days wandering through the Medina, but coming across the locked gates early Friday afternoon was a big surprise. We came across a boy who got keys and took us through and unlocked the second set of gates for us. We could have traversed side alleys I think but that would have been much more difficult and it was a little eerie as the streets were fairly deserted.
The same is true in Marrakech with some places closed on Fridays.
we stayed at Dar Dialkoum in Marrakech which was great and might fit your budget, but we never could fathom the route to the square (about 15 minutes on foot we were told). Dar Seffarine excels, and is not expensive at all..look on their web site.
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 04:40 AM
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Luisah - yes, actually I'm *pretty sure* Panorama was the name. And cut myself off on the last post - the discount was due to the lack of hot water at the time.

Castellanese,

We just overnighted in Casablanca. Understand completely about having to say somewhere due to logistics. We arrived at 6pm from the transatlantic and had no interest in moving any further until morning.

By the way, the train/bus combo from Essaouira to Casablanca is through Supratours via Marrakech. If you're starting at C, you just tell them at the Voyaguers train station ticket window and they sell you both legs. The Supratours bus station is next to, but NOT IN the Marrakech bus station. Walk to your right when you exit the train station, to the road and then along a short sidewalk to the bus station you couldn't see before, due to a wall. The bus arrives at Essaouira at a private Supratours bus station much nearer the harbor than the big bus station. Of course, reverse all this since you're going the other way.

We were in Essaouia for 2 nights, Marrakech for 4 nights, Valley of the Kasbahs for 2 nights, Merzouga and Azrou each for a night, Fez for 3 nights, Chaouen for 2 nights. Then taxi/ferry/train through Ceuta to Spain. I wish we'd have allocated an extra night to Fez. Maybe truncated one from Marrakech where we say the Palais, the tombs, Merdersa Ben Youssef (don't miss) and of course, the souks and lots of wandering. We're not very goal oriented in our traveling, so I'm sure we missed lots. Still, it wasn't being bored that made us wish we'd have spent time differently or even that we disliked Marrakech. It was really how much more we enjoyed the trip when we weren't in Marrakech (or Casa for that matter).
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Old Jun 11th, 2007, 06:27 PM
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Thanks everybody for explaining the situation on Fridays. I'll arrive in Fez on a Thursday and leave on a Monday.

Truth be told, the only place I regret not having included in my itinerary is Chefchaouen. It seems so lovely and calm, but it's so far away. I don't know whether to add a couple of nights in my itinerary in order to visit. I could add them, but it seems that I'd be moving too much.

By the way, is Moulay Idriss open to non-muslims? If it is, is it worth visiting it?

Somehow, I'm not attracted to the Sahara Desert. The pictures Clifton took are breathtaking, though.
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Old Jun 12th, 2007, 09:09 AM
  #28  
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Hi,

If I wanted to visit Chefchaouen, I'd need at least 2 nights.

Let's say I'm able to add an extra day (that's all I can add), would you spend 3 nights in Fez instead of 4 (I wouldn't visit Volubilis then) in order to stay in Chefchaouen for 2 nights?

How can you travel to Chefchaouen from Casablanca?

Is this a crazy idea? Is Chefchaouen worth it?

Thanks.
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Old Jun 13th, 2007, 04:03 AM
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Hmm, worth it is tough. We liked it. It's a pretty town and relaxed. Other people might be bored... If you go, try to get up to the western side of the medina. The tourist shops fade away on this side.

I'd pick it over a day out at Volubilis, even though I like ruins, I like seeing social life more. So, a decision to be made.

Couple of notes on Chaouen -
First, be prepared to be approached about being the, uhmm, local crop. Pot is a reason quite a few people visit. It's not high pressure or anything, and definitely not why we visited, but got the offer a half dozen times in 2 days.

I don't know all the transport connections, but I do know that the CTR bus runs from it's own terminal in Fez to Chefchaouen on it's way to Tetouen. Fairly comfortable seating, no on board toilet but it makes a midpoint stop. About a 3.5 hr bus ride to Chaouen. Would think you'd com back to Fez and then train to Casablanca to get back, but could be a bus? Not sure.
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Old Jun 13th, 2007, 07:17 PM
  #30  
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Well, After giving it a lot of thought, I don't think I'll visit Chefchaouen.

By the way, how hot will the weather be at the beginning of September. What's the dress code for non-muslims in Morocco for a women and men.

Thanks.
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Old Jun 14th, 2007, 03:02 AM
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Expect temperatures in the upper 80s & 90s (upper 20s to mid 30s if you work with Celsius). It should be fairly dry at that time of year.

For women, the things to avoid are: low cut shirts (even if they have long sleeves), shorts or skirts above the knee), spaghetti straps. Women do not need head coverings and showing ankle is fine. I've heard people warning against open sandals - which is absurd, given that even pious Moroccan women wear open sandals.

The only thing to avoid for men is shorts. They're not offensive, they're just considered to be clothing for children only.
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Old Jun 18th, 2007, 05:51 AM
  #32  
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Thanks for the dress code information. You've all been very helpful.

In your opinion, what's to miss and what's not to miss in Fes and Marrakech? I've read a lot from the internet (I'm still waiting for a Morocco bookguide I ordered on Amazon), but it's my experience that, sometimes, landmarks that are supposed to be great are a bit dissapointing while others that aren't listed are surprisingly amazing.

Thanks again.
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Old Jun 24th, 2007, 09:29 AM
  #33  
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Hi again,

After having done a lot of reading, this is the itinerary I've come up with:

FES 4 NIGHTS
Day01: Arrival in the evening.
Day02: Visit Nejjarine Square, the souks around Attarine Square and Seffarine Square.
Day03: Wander around the Andalusian Quarter.
Day04: Day trip to Volubilis and Moulay Idriss.

MARRAKECH 3 NIGHTS
Day05: Arrival in the evening.
Day06: Visit the souks, the Ali ben Youssef Mosque (outside)
and el-Fna Square in the evening.
Day07: Visit the Koutoubia Mosque (outside), The Bahia Palace and wander around the Mellah

ESSAOUIRA 3 NIGHTS
Day08: Arrival in the evening.
Day09: Wander around the medina and perhaps, time allowing, the Mellah.
Day10: On the beach resting.

CASABLANCA 1 NIGHT
day11: Arrival in the evening and depart for a week in Turin and Lake Orta the following day.

I have a few questions concerning this itinerary:

1. Can Moulay Idriss be visited by non-muslims? I've read in some books that you can and in some others that you can't. Is it worth it?

2. Am I expecting to see too much in Marrakech with only 3 nights? I'll leave for Essaouira in the afternoon anyway, so that'll give me the morning off in Marrakech on day 8 just in case. I'm not interested either in museums or gardens.

Thanks for taking the time to read my post and give me your opinion.
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Old Jun 24th, 2007, 10:02 AM
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<<Am I expecting to see too much in Marrakech with only 3 nights?>>

I think you can easily do what you've listed on day six, there's not much distance between the sites you list. I would also add the Saadian Tombs to your Marr. itinerary.

I don't see the Fes medina on your itinerary. Are you planning on skipping it?
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Old Jun 24th, 2007, 01:00 PM
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Thanks Luisah for your opinion about my Marrakech itinerary.

I don't understand when you say: "I don't see the Fes medina on your itinerary", aren't Nejjarine, Attarine and Seffarine Squares in Fes-al-Bali? As far as I know the souks are around the Attarine Square along with the Karaouine Mosque.
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Old Jun 25th, 2007, 06:31 AM
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Yes, sorry. I just skimmed and didn't see "Fes Medina."
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Old Jun 25th, 2007, 06:57 PM
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Looks pretty good to me. I like that you don't have Essaouira planned too much. It's a place where it's best to just hang out.

Do please go inside the Ben Youssef Medersa in Marrakech. It's pretty incredible.

I know outsiders can now go into Moulay Idriss (we didn't, but know those who have)

You might want to think about a guide for a day in Fez. Really good idea to get an orientation to the place. I don't much go for guides and tours, and thought Marrakech was fine, but Fez is a maze.

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Old Jun 29th, 2007, 03:32 AM
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Thanks everybody.

By the way, am I making a mistake by not visiting the jewish quarter in Fez? Is the andalusian quarter worth it? I've seen the jewish quarter included in all Fez itineraries but never the andalusian one. Why is that?

Thanks.
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Old Jul 7th, 2007, 04:22 AM
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Hi again everybody,

I've already paid for my plane tickets to Morocco.

I want to thank Philbill, Jenmaroc, Luisah, WTnow and Clifton for all of suggestions and for having shared your opinions and experience with me.

I will be in Morocco from September 5th to 16th and then I will spend a week in Piedmont, Italy.

I can't wait to be in Morocco!
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Old Jul 7th, 2007, 05:45 AM
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You'll love it! Have a wonderful time in Morocco and in Italy. Sounds like a great vacation to me.
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