What it's like to safari in Kenya right now
Feb 5th, 2008, 09:22 AM
#21
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Just wanted to update this as I've been reading various web sites describing what was going on while we were there. In particular I was struck by this site, describing killings and clashes in Nakuru and Naivasha a couple of days after we were there ... http://cnews.canoe.ca/CNEWS/World/20...793736-ap.html
To be blunt about it we were lied to by our guide, who kept telling us there was no violence and all was calm, even as people were being killed in these two tourist areas. Some quotes from the article:
<b>"For every one Kikuyu killed, we shall avenge their killing with three." (quote from a rioter in Naivasha)
55 bodies at the Nakuru morgue with more arriving
"At least nine people were killed by gangs with machetes and clubs (in Naivasha), a local reporter said. Five others burned to death in their homes, said Willy Lugusa, a police official"
"Tourist police escorted a convoy of nine vehicles of tourists trapped outside Naivasha through the town and on to Nairobi, the capital."</b>
We only heard snippets of these incidents, and only from other tourists we met in the Mara who told us of being in police convoys near Nakuru and of the fighting in Naivasha. As soon as this was mentioned the guide would explain it away (it was clear he knew about it already) as minor and 'already over'.
We were stuck in downtown Nakuru twice, once for many minutes in a traffic gridlock and once when we had our third flat tire and parked illegally to change it. Would have been nice to be given the truth about conditions rather than lied to so we could make our own decisions.
I would reiterate my earlier advice that as a tourist you are probably safe, but that it's best to fly between parks. But I must admit that hearing of the spontaneous fighting that errupted in tourist areas like Nakuru and Naivasha would give me pause about driving thru them. While you might not be a target your guide could be (according to our guide a Kenyan can usually tell which tribe someone belongs to just by looking at his/her face). For sure our Kikuyu guide was getting some hard stares by youths wearing ODM T-shirts when we stopped in Narok, and I imagine a Luo or Kalenjin guide ferrying you thru Nakuru or Naivasha during the fighting could be a target there.
And not all the 'demonstrators' are there for politics, some are just thugs looking for a chance to rob or loot, and if you get caught in this you could easily be robbed as well. Admittedly no tourists have been harmed thus far but there might not always be a police escort handy for every tourist jeep either.
Bill
To be blunt about it we were lied to by our guide, who kept telling us there was no violence and all was calm, even as people were being killed in these two tourist areas. Some quotes from the article:
<b>"For every one Kikuyu killed, we shall avenge their killing with three." (quote from a rioter in Naivasha)
55 bodies at the Nakuru morgue with more arriving
"At least nine people were killed by gangs with machetes and clubs (in Naivasha), a local reporter said. Five others burned to death in their homes, said Willy Lugusa, a police official"
"Tourist police escorted a convoy of nine vehicles of tourists trapped outside Naivasha through the town and on to Nairobi, the capital."</b>
We only heard snippets of these incidents, and only from other tourists we met in the Mara who told us of being in police convoys near Nakuru and of the fighting in Naivasha. As soon as this was mentioned the guide would explain it away (it was clear he knew about it already) as minor and 'already over'.
We were stuck in downtown Nakuru twice, once for many minutes in a traffic gridlock and once when we had our third flat tire and parked illegally to change it. Would have been nice to be given the truth about conditions rather than lied to so we could make our own decisions.
I would reiterate my earlier advice that as a tourist you are probably safe, but that it's best to fly between parks. But I must admit that hearing of the spontaneous fighting that errupted in tourist areas like Nakuru and Naivasha would give me pause about driving thru them. While you might not be a target your guide could be (according to our guide a Kenyan can usually tell which tribe someone belongs to just by looking at his/her face). For sure our Kikuyu guide was getting some hard stares by youths wearing ODM T-shirts when we stopped in Narok, and I imagine a Luo or Kalenjin guide ferrying you thru Nakuru or Naivasha during the fighting could be a target there.
And not all the 'demonstrators' are there for politics, some are just thugs looking for a chance to rob or loot, and if you get caught in this you could easily be robbed as well. Admittedly no tourists have been harmed thus far but there might not always be a police escort handy for every tourist jeep either.
Bill
Feb 5th, 2008, 09:40 AM
#22
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Bill,
Thank you for taking the time to write this report and its updates. It is helping me to understand the sad situation in Kenya.
Anyone planning a trip to Kenya should have as much information as possible before they go.
CW
Thank you for taking the time to write this report and its updates. It is helping me to understand the sad situation in Kenya.
Anyone planning a trip to Kenya should have as much information as possible before they go.
CW
Feb 5th, 2008, 10:33 AM
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The Pintos (Micato) did not lie to us,- but spoke frankly about their own views, political and otherwise. The guides were pretty up front about things too; I actually watched the killing and the burning on CNN with my tour director and some waiters and a bartender, - Kenyans all - as we waited for my plane and it seemed like everyone had a cousin or a sister-in-law's uncle, etc., who had been affected somehow (remember 9/11?). But as horrific as it all was, to the extent everyday life could go on, it did go on,, and there was more than a passing interest in the football scores (theirs- not ours).The one thing I did hear from everyone though was an expression of faith (not just hope) that Kenya will survive this -- but definitely NOT "hakuna matata." I did feel and respect their pride in not wanting to share their pain (and perhaps shame?) with outsiders. I would not hesitate to go back.
Jess
Jess
Feb 5th, 2008, 10:37 AM
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Thanks Bill for the time taken to write this report so quickly, it has given a great insight to this sad time in Kenya.
Good to see you have returned safely and eagerly looking foreward to your photo's.
Good to see you have returned safely and eagerly looking foreward to your photo's.
Feb 5th, 2008, 03:33 PM
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Thanks Bill for such wonderful first-hand information and for the follow-up information. I have to admit that I'm glad I don't have to make a decision on whether or not to travel to Kenya right now.
Feb 5th, 2008, 05:45 PM
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Kimburu, since I've never been to Kenya, I can't say whether it's the culture. Bill seems to think a lie's a lie. Any guide or person in that business has a duty to tell visitors if they are in any danger, and not to take them into harm's way. Luckily they weren't hurt, but in instances like this the climate can change quickly. Tourism companies have an obligation to tell their employees to make sure their charges are safe and tell them the truth so they can make their own decisions. If it was me, I sure wouldn't chance a trip there at this point.
Feb 6th, 2008, 10:44 AM
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Wanted to pass along this link to a Newsweek article that describes the conflict as deep-rooted and probably long-lasting. After talking to various Kenyans from different tribes during our trip I think this article has captured the scene pretty well.
http://www.newsweek.com/id/108304
Some selected quotes:
<b><i>
Signs of hope are few.
"Anything can happen at any time."
Joel believes the election served as the "spark," but that widespread anger and resentment about land distribution are now the primary drivers of the violence.
"This fighting will continue until President Kibaki offers Raila the post. Otherwise this will continue for years," said Peter Kirui, 30, a Kalenjin who saw the bodies of two Kisii men carried off his farm the next day. "We don't want Kisii and Kikuyus here, because they are helping each other to kill Kalenjins. No Raila, no peace."
</i></b>
http://www.newsweek.com/id/108304
Some selected quotes:
<b><i>
Signs of hope are few.
"Anything can happen at any time."
Joel believes the election served as the "spark," but that widespread anger and resentment about land distribution are now the primary drivers of the violence.
"This fighting will continue until President Kibaki offers Raila the post. Otherwise this will continue for years," said Peter Kirui, 30, a Kalenjin who saw the bodies of two Kisii men carried off his farm the next day. "We don't want Kisii and Kikuyus here, because they are helping each other to kill Kalenjins. No Raila, no peace."
</i></b>
Feb 7th, 2008, 04:05 AM
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Woo!! What an experience that was Bil_H. I was late for an appointment but couldn't leave as i was reading your article. We had a couple of tourists doing a safari in Uganda with http://www.toursinuganda.com Africa Safaris Secrets they had just canceled a safari with a re known Kenyan tour operator. It's sad what's happening there
Feb 7th, 2008, 04:15 AM
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I came back from Kenya yesterday. No issues getting to my hotel - House of Waine - or at the Masai Mara camp which I visited. The tourists are staying away. My camp was essentially near empty with part of the camp closed.
Feb 8th, 2008, 06:25 PM
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Bill, I was so depressed by your post referring to the Newsweek article "Into the Valley of Death" that I sent a really depressing email to Kennedy. He was kind enough to email me back today.
Kristina,
The things you have read here are true ! It has been that bad !
This things happened or are happening quite some distance from where I am. You know Kenya well. Eldoret & Kisumu are about 300 km away, Far away, yet so near!!
Rift valley has always been like this after every 5 years (Thanks to election time) but never like this.The tribal hatred and mistrust has gone to a madness that can only be likened to the Rwanda Killings-of course the approach not the magnitude!
The difference here is that it is happening to some regions involving some tribes. If Kenya had only two or three tribes, by now, it could be "another Rwanda”.
You will kindly remember some mail I wrote to you and wondered what the world was waiting for... at least, the worlds' concern can be felt, EU is giving the negotiaters conditions, The US the same, the lame UN is doing it's act ... at least!! (Referring to what I said about the UN - Kristina)
As per your concerns, as it stands now, the peace negotiations going on are holding some areas like Nairobi to a complete calm..... Kofi Annan has just briefed the Nation that they are progressing well with the "political solution" (They have decided that a difficult political solution is the only way forward). He has given up to Tuesday next week to give a fully detailed agreement from both sides of the divide.
As at now, I have nothing to worry about my children.They are secure in their respective schools. As I write this, Val is watching TV downstairs (you know our House!), You can't watch TV with gun shots rending the air and marauding youths threatening peace!!. That tells you something as of now!
We have just come from shopping! the environment is such that one may be forget that there are peace negotiations that are going on, and you would be forgiven for momentarily asking "which peace negotiations!? ".... That is how it is here in Nairobi.... As for out in the Rift valley, I have to watch TV and read Newspapers for any new updates. Nevertheless, the absence of tension currently does not mean the country is in total peace, we need Kibaki and Raila to stand together and declare after each other has spoken that ......."we have reached an agreement...". We want to just hear that... no one really cares what they agree on... they can as well agree to fly together and bring down the plane somewhere in the middle of Atlantic!!!
I had two very normal city Tours, one on Wednesday 6th Feb with Faryl Kaye and her Mum. The daughter and Mum are both Very good friends! It was a BIG pleasure to be with them. They gave me good memories of the Kenya that was ... just last Dec ... when I used to take people proudly around my city. Shall I ever be that proud again!? Faryl is the Fodorite who wrote some times last two weeks asking Fodorites to visit Kenya as she was there and having fun. She is from Arkansas (hope spelling is correct!) We had fun in all corners of Nairobi. We ended the Tour at Sierra Restaurant enroute to the Airport where I dropped them at 2000hrs and I drove home arriving 2100hrs (at night!!)... Val was there waiting for me as we are now the only two in the house after the girls have joined boarding schools.) Nyiva is picking up very well. It makes us very happy as otherwise we could be very frustrated with the changes from day school to boarding!
Yesterday, I had another couple from the US /Texas, we did the full city tour with no threat to peace at all. We ended up at the Sierra Restaurant again on Airport/Mombasa road enroute to the Airport. I dropped them again at the Airport at 2000hrs and drove home safely again! Wish things could continue like that ... May God hear this prayer!!
I know you know Kenya well, So let me tell you this. All this chaos /Killings you have been reading about Kenya have been concentrated on Rift Valley and Nyanza. Rift valley killing is about Historical land issues with Kikuyu and Kalenjin. They thought that if Raila took the presidency, he could assist them in 'removing' the Kikuyu from the Rift valley back to central province. He campaigned in the Banner of Federalism (Federalism, Kristina, in Africa, has a totally different meaning-not what is spelt in those social sciences). During last years campaign, those advocating federalism had with them their own defination ... and did we learn!!
Education never ends Kristina, so let me educate you a bit!! In Africa, more so Kenya, Federalism means ..."each tribe sticking to its Geographical/Historical colonial boundaries". Stop fetching your Advanced Dictionary!! The Kenya constitution says that, you can buy property and live anywhere in Kenya!! Yet, if you where keen enough to buy land in Rift valley, and you are from ”the other tribe", you are a foreigner, intruder!!
In Nyanza and Kisumu in particular, the Luo just hate the Kikuyu for voting against Raila, and other Historical differences that occured between the father of Raila (Oginga Odinga) and the first President of Kenya who was also Kikuyu- Mzee Jomo Kenyatta .... Ognga Odinga was then vice President before Kenyatta sacked him after a public disagreement in Kisumu - Odinga's home turf!! .... but that is a story of another day!!
Naivasha and Nakuru are also in the Rift valley but the two towns have more Kikuyu population than the others in the Rift Valley and it is here (in these towns) that the chaos that erupted where Kikuyu revenging on the few Luo therein! This has however fizzled out as quickly as it started -The son of Kenyatta, Uhuru Kenyatta (who is a Minister of local Government now) swiftly toured the area and adviced the Kikuyu to stop the revenge immediately - they stopped, of course after a family of eight had been burned alive in their house!! Serious crimes on human beings - sad Kristina!! ... but non of the other leaders ever did matter like the son of Kenyatta -Uhuru ! Kudos to him !
The rest of the country, viz, Central province, coast province, North Eastern, Eastern etc have seen either complete calm or relative.
Most political leaders, leading business people and other leaders have gone out together to preach peace. The last three days so Mombasa leaders go round telling the residents to stop ethnic hatred/fighting as they both ended up losing. The business people losing business and small man losing jobs!! .... Rare Logic that, for people who had taken such a hardline just after elections!!!
It is good that you chose a flying Safari, this was initially for your comfort, but if it were to be associated on avoiding the current chaotic situation, then August would be too far to still be in this Chaos... Nothing would be working!!.. Have hope!
Things will be good and back to normal soon! Be optimistic to your clients and tell them to get ready to visit this beautiful country and see for themselves what has been the 'catchy' news all over!!
Well, to sum up, next week, say by Friday 15th Feb, the direction that this country will take will have already revealed itself - Crossing fingers!!
As of now, we are doing fine. There seems to be a glimmer of hope somewhere in the Horizon !!
By the way Kristina,
If I wanted to drive to Samburu now, to Mt. Kenya, Nakuru, Naivasha, Maasai Mara and back to Nairobi, I would do so without batting an eyelid; all that route is CALM !!
I wouldn't dare go past Nakuru, Eldoret, Kakamega, Kisumu, not even if you promised me an Airbus !! ..After all, what tourism is there!! Seeing burned out Villages... and meeting illiterate tribal goons ...., not my cup of tea!! - Thanks!!
Kennedy
Kristina,
The things you have read here are true ! It has been that bad !
This things happened or are happening quite some distance from where I am. You know Kenya well. Eldoret & Kisumu are about 300 km away, Far away, yet so near!!
Rift valley has always been like this after every 5 years (Thanks to election time) but never like this.The tribal hatred and mistrust has gone to a madness that can only be likened to the Rwanda Killings-of course the approach not the magnitude!
The difference here is that it is happening to some regions involving some tribes. If Kenya had only two or three tribes, by now, it could be "another Rwanda”.
You will kindly remember some mail I wrote to you and wondered what the world was waiting for... at least, the worlds' concern can be felt, EU is giving the negotiaters conditions, The US the same, the lame UN is doing it's act ... at least!! (Referring to what I said about the UN - Kristina)
As per your concerns, as it stands now, the peace negotiations going on are holding some areas like Nairobi to a complete calm..... Kofi Annan has just briefed the Nation that they are progressing well with the "political solution" (They have decided that a difficult political solution is the only way forward). He has given up to Tuesday next week to give a fully detailed agreement from both sides of the divide.
As at now, I have nothing to worry about my children.They are secure in their respective schools. As I write this, Val is watching TV downstairs (you know our House!), You can't watch TV with gun shots rending the air and marauding youths threatening peace!!. That tells you something as of now!
We have just come from shopping! the environment is such that one may be forget that there are peace negotiations that are going on, and you would be forgiven for momentarily asking "which peace negotiations!? ".... That is how it is here in Nairobi.... As for out in the Rift valley, I have to watch TV and read Newspapers for any new updates. Nevertheless, the absence of tension currently does not mean the country is in total peace, we need Kibaki and Raila to stand together and declare after each other has spoken that ......."we have reached an agreement...". We want to just hear that... no one really cares what they agree on... they can as well agree to fly together and bring down the plane somewhere in the middle of Atlantic!!!
I had two very normal city Tours, one on Wednesday 6th Feb with Faryl Kaye and her Mum. The daughter and Mum are both Very good friends! It was a BIG pleasure to be with them. They gave me good memories of the Kenya that was ... just last Dec ... when I used to take people proudly around my city. Shall I ever be that proud again!? Faryl is the Fodorite who wrote some times last two weeks asking Fodorites to visit Kenya as she was there and having fun. She is from Arkansas (hope spelling is correct!) We had fun in all corners of Nairobi. We ended the Tour at Sierra Restaurant enroute to the Airport where I dropped them at 2000hrs and I drove home arriving 2100hrs (at night!!)... Val was there waiting for me as we are now the only two in the house after the girls have joined boarding schools.) Nyiva is picking up very well. It makes us very happy as otherwise we could be very frustrated with the changes from day school to boarding!
Yesterday, I had another couple from the US /Texas, we did the full city tour with no threat to peace at all. We ended up at the Sierra Restaurant again on Airport/Mombasa road enroute to the Airport. I dropped them again at the Airport at 2000hrs and drove home safely again! Wish things could continue like that ... May God hear this prayer!!
I know you know Kenya well, So let me tell you this. All this chaos /Killings you have been reading about Kenya have been concentrated on Rift Valley and Nyanza. Rift valley killing is about Historical land issues with Kikuyu and Kalenjin. They thought that if Raila took the presidency, he could assist them in 'removing' the Kikuyu from the Rift valley back to central province. He campaigned in the Banner of Federalism (Federalism, Kristina, in Africa, has a totally different meaning-not what is spelt in those social sciences). During last years campaign, those advocating federalism had with them their own defination ... and did we learn!!
Education never ends Kristina, so let me educate you a bit!! In Africa, more so Kenya, Federalism means ..."each tribe sticking to its Geographical/Historical colonial boundaries". Stop fetching your Advanced Dictionary!! The Kenya constitution says that, you can buy property and live anywhere in Kenya!! Yet, if you where keen enough to buy land in Rift valley, and you are from ”the other tribe", you are a foreigner, intruder!!
In Nyanza and Kisumu in particular, the Luo just hate the Kikuyu for voting against Raila, and other Historical differences that occured between the father of Raila (Oginga Odinga) and the first President of Kenya who was also Kikuyu- Mzee Jomo Kenyatta .... Ognga Odinga was then vice President before Kenyatta sacked him after a public disagreement in Kisumu - Odinga's home turf!! .... but that is a story of another day!!
Naivasha and Nakuru are also in the Rift valley but the two towns have more Kikuyu population than the others in the Rift Valley and it is here (in these towns) that the chaos that erupted where Kikuyu revenging on the few Luo therein! This has however fizzled out as quickly as it started -The son of Kenyatta, Uhuru Kenyatta (who is a Minister of local Government now) swiftly toured the area and adviced the Kikuyu to stop the revenge immediately - they stopped, of course after a family of eight had been burned alive in their house!! Serious crimes on human beings - sad Kristina!! ... but non of the other leaders ever did matter like the son of Kenyatta -Uhuru ! Kudos to him !
The rest of the country, viz, Central province, coast province, North Eastern, Eastern etc have seen either complete calm or relative.
Most political leaders, leading business people and other leaders have gone out together to preach peace. The last three days so Mombasa leaders go round telling the residents to stop ethnic hatred/fighting as they both ended up losing. The business people losing business and small man losing jobs!! .... Rare Logic that, for people who had taken such a hardline just after elections!!!
It is good that you chose a flying Safari, this was initially for your comfort, but if it were to be associated on avoiding the current chaotic situation, then August would be too far to still be in this Chaos... Nothing would be working!!.. Have hope!
Things will be good and back to normal soon! Be optimistic to your clients and tell them to get ready to visit this beautiful country and see for themselves what has been the 'catchy' news all over!!
Well, to sum up, next week, say by Friday 15th Feb, the direction that this country will take will have already revealed itself - Crossing fingers!!
As of now, we are doing fine. There seems to be a glimmer of hope somewhere in the Horizon !!
By the way Kristina,
If I wanted to drive to Samburu now, to Mt. Kenya, Nakuru, Naivasha, Maasai Mara and back to Nairobi, I would do so without batting an eyelid; all that route is CALM !!
I wouldn't dare go past Nakuru, Eldoret, Kakamega, Kisumu, not even if you promised me an Airbus !! ..After all, what tourism is there!! Seeing burned out Villages... and meeting illiterate tribal goons ...., not my cup of tea!! - Thanks!!
Kennedy
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