Water, Water--EVERYWHERE
 

How many knew who this was from without looking at who wrote that lead in? Ha Ha.

If anyone who may be leaving soon has questions about the water situation, I will be happy to answer.
I had a bad fall due to the water situation and will probably not post much until sometime next week, but if those leaving soon want information I'd be happy to answer questions. Liz

Sorry to hear about your fall but we leave for Botswana this Monday and were curious how the game viewing was affected by the wet year/season. We will be primarily be in Chobe.
We were looking forword to hearing your stories but we understand it's no fun writing when your feeling under the weather.

Hi Jeorgiagirl-
Chobe is the one place you don't have to worry about. Savute and Chobe both are where the animals go when the Delta is wet and we heard fabulous stories about game there. We were in Linyanti and the tall grass was just such an issue we didn't see much other than elephant and giraffes which were tall enough to see over the grass. Unfortunately the grass will last longer this year because of the rains and then the floods, but the few lions we saw at Linyanti were so skinny their ribs stuck out. They hadn't eaten in 4 days and we thought they probably wouldn't make it. They just can't see to hunt. Some folks had seen wild dog there but we didn't. Unless the game crossed the road we couldn't see it. Its a very unusual year and I couldn't believe the water from the rain. Where the camps are on smaller islands the water was about 2 feet deep in a lot of the area. The rivers overflowed and we got stuck in the middle of one and had to get pulled out. Another story I won't go into now.
The worst was the SAA flight. They have crammed so many seats into coach class and they seem to just take a smaller plane if the larger ones aren't sold out that you can't even walk down the aisles. You have to turn sideways. Going over we were lucky and they left the two middle seats between us empty. Not so lucky coming home. Every seat taken. The larger people tried to stand in the back for relief but the cabin attendants had to chase them out. Eighteen and a half hours was just torture. Of course I was in pain and couldn't sleep much. Be prepared and take something to make you sleep is my advice.
My reason for not posting more is we just got back yesterday and I spent the rest of the day in the ER so I just remember the torture of the flight.
Botswana held a lot for us and I will relay it later. Liz

I knew it was from you. Liz, once you're better we want to hear about ER and the fall and everything. It sounds like you are in good spirits though.

Liz:

So glad to hear you're back but sorry to hear about your fall. Hope everything is on the mend and you'll be fine.

We'll all look forward to your report when you feel up to it.

Glad you had a good time.

Jan

Dear Liz (and Max too)
WELCOME HOME!!!!
I'm so sorry to hear about your fall and the uncomfortable flight, but from your tone, it sounds like you had a special trip, nonetheless.
I can't wait to hear about it when you're able to post more (I'm here for another 10 days before I leave).
Again, WELCOME HOME!

Welcome home Liz, I hope you got good medical attention and that you're at least feeling comfortable and are on your way to recovery.

You couldn't miss from the title of your thread - Liz is home.

We've gotten a little taste of your time in the Delta, but first get back to feeling better; we can wait for your post about your experiences. Take care.

Of course we knew it was from you, Liz!! Welcome home to you and your honey-bunny Max!! You have teased us with your posting, so we expect a very detailed posting when you feel up to it. Rest up and then take us on safari with you ...

Oh boy. Can't wait to hear your stories! I do hope you aren't seriously injured though...

Sorry to hear about your fall hope everything is ok.

WELCOME HOME!

Welcome home Liz! Hope you had a fabulous holiday and that the mishap didn't spoil your fun. :)

Liz,

I know many fodorites have been thinking about you and hoping it was a wonderful break. I do hope that in a few days the bad memories will have disappeared and you are just left with wonderful memories and feelings about Botswana. Please rest up before you post any more, because you know we won't give you a minutes peace once you start posting the details.

Thank you everyone. You are all so kind and nice and I so appreciate your encouraging words.
The trip report will still follow, but I want to prepare those leaving soon for Botswana. Whether this applies also to Zambia, I honestly don't know. But to be forewarned, is to be forearmed as the saying goes.
When I went I knew the water was coming in, in record quantities. I only thought of the beauty. Nothing else. Well, record quantities of water carries with it other changes to the area. One being insects. One being tall growths of grass and shrubs, and the list goes on. There were ants in the thousands. Everywhere. In one camp the outdoor bathroom had it seems like a million ants all over it. They climbed down the trees overhead and the camp had sprayed, etc, but still the ants were everywhere. The snakes are there and they are hidden by tall grass. On a walking safari I came within a few inches of stepping on a 6' long cobra. The guide just barely caught sight in time of the gentle moving of the grass and grabbed me. He was literally right at my feet. One more step.......
There is water whereever you go. Where the water recedes a bit is where I fell. In order to get to a dry area of an island, we had to cross a muddy patch. It was on break from a mokoro ride. They had thrown some branches and pieces of wood to walk on and we all crossed over fine. Coming back I stepped on one of the branches and it shifted in the mud and threw me forward and I fell hard onto my side and hit my head. I don't think this is going to be a quick thing. I have been in pain ever since. The hospital gave me pain medication and tomorrow, Monday, I will start trying to find a specialist to locate which nerve is damaged and causing all the pain. I am not telling you this for sympathy. I am telling you this that Africa is not a walk in the park. This is my seventh trip to Africa and the first that I have experienced any of these problems. Do not, I repeat do not travel without insurance. Had the snake bit me, had a bone broken on my fall, I would have had to be airlifted out. This is very serious business. As I said, I didn't even dream of the consequences of the high waters. The problems are just now going on. The mozzies will die as soon as the temperature reached 20 degrees centigrade, but the ants don't die, the insects will still be there. More water is coming from the flood. This water there now is mostly from the heavy rains in March. I cannot imagine any more water.
At one camp the young manager said that he felt a lot of camps would be forced to close when the floods came. When we got to Maun and Dougey Wright, the owner of our travel company, met us on our way out, he told us of a walking safari he had just come from. They have a three day walk or something like that. They camp out, etc. They were walking along and out of nowhere a lion charged them. They didn't see it due to the high grass. They just stood there as the lion charged. He stopped short just before he got to them and the dirt he kicked up landed on them. That is how close he came. There was no warning. Then the lion just walked away. Dougey said he didn't feel any camps would be closed due to the water. So there are a lot of opinions. At one camp we were at the water in the lagoon came up to the tents which were built on a platform. They simply added a step at the back of the platform and you could enter that way. Much more water though and the back of the platform would also be wet I thought. I don't know since I hadn't been there at this time of the year before.
We were charged by almost every male elephant we saw. I know is was a mock charge, but a mock charge changes in an instant to a real charge and we couldn't turn the car around. The driver went in reverse and we got away, but I was very afraid after that. That grass is unbelievable. We couldn't see into it at all. Only elephants and giraffes stood tall enough. What else was there was anybody's guess.
Please don't think that I am saying anything but to be aware as you choose your activities. The camps did not tell us about the snakes. When we went to the next camp some folks were leaving for a walking safari and asked for our experiences. I didn't say anything but I did tell the manager that I thought they should have been warned about snakes. She said they walk in an area of shorter grass. Well I never saw such an area while I was in that camp.
So, a trip report will follow in a few days and there was a lot of beauty brought by the water, but for now I can't rest without warning you. Please, please be on guard for unusual situations. The animals are different too. We met starving lions in Linyanti. They couldn't see to hunt. The grass is too tall.
Rocco-I think you should not travel without insurance. This isn't a funny thing. You know of the danger. I heard it runs about $30,000 to be airlifted out in an emergency. I don't think we are talking bush planes.
This is all I can say to warn you. I'm not wanting to scare you, but believe me, I was scared plenty.
Long sleeves at night too. I wore them all day because of the mozzies. We are literally covered with bites. Even with the coils burning at night and all of the deet sprays. They still bite. No tsetse flies that we saw. Botswana is spraying for those and they have traps in every area to see if any are left. Liz

Oh Liz, I'm so so sorry to hear about your injuries/unpleasant experiences. It's amazing what a couple of weeks will do. We were in the Delta March 27-29 -- mosquitoes were not much of a problem, zero ants, grass tall, but not so tall that you couldn't see lots of game.

Please get better soon!!

Liz,

Thank you for not holding back and letting all of us know of your experience. I will surely be calling for travel insurance tomorrow, not so much for trip interruption, but for medical purposes, as I do plan on doing my share of bushwalks and mekoro excursions (as well as microlighting, if possible).

I wonder if the water has made the elephants more aggressive? Perhaps they couldn't see you all in advance and were surprised and upset by your immediate presence?

I do hope for all of those travelling soon, that it does start to dry out some in the next couple months. I know that I did have a hard time enjoying myself in mid-March at Matetsi Water Lodge due to a plentitude of insects. I imagine that it even made eating difficult. I remember having to scrape bugs off the butter, and pull them out of my wine glass, and that does kind of have a way of making dinner in the bush a little less pleasurable.

In any event, I hope that this will do nothing to deter your love for Africa. I do hope that there are also some good memories mixed in there that will be long remembered after you recover from your injuries.

Hang in there! :)

Dear Liz
How very like you to think of us even when you're in pain. And it's already changed my actions as I'm making sure to pack more long-sleeved shirts, more insect repellent etc. Forewarned really is forearmed.
I do so hope you'll be on the mend soon, friend.
Kavey

Roccco,
just to let you know AMEX offers a comprehensive travel medical insurance that's easy to sign up for and valid for an entire year. Becasue it covers you for more than one trip it's very convienent . I think it's excellent value for the money.
Hope that helps.

welltravelledbrit,

Thanks for the feedback. On second thought, I may already be covered by my American Express Platinum Card, but I will definitely put in a call to double-check. Unfortunately I was not able to pay for the Africa portion of my trip by AMEX, since I am booking direct with the lodges and not through a travel agent. However, that is a small tradeoff to save 50% on my lodging.

Liz,

So sorry to hear about your unfortunate accident and I do hope you have a complete recovery and find the appropriate medical attention. I am sure your advice to fellow travelers regarding the present conditions in Southern Africa and the need for proper medical and travel insurance will be appreciated by all. Take Care.

Thank you, Thank you, THANK YOU! It will change what I pack and the excursions we choose, for sure! Do we need to bring our own Mosquito coils or do they supply them at the camps? (We brought our own to Jamaica, and have used them in our own back yard ever since!)

Good luck Liz & a speedy recovery

Rocco- Try www.insuremytrip.com. I got that from Sandi and I bought the cheapest with I think $30,000 medical emergency attached. I had heard before about that need.

uhoh- Coils are at each camp. They will light one in your tent while you are at dinner. HINT: Look under the dining room table before selecting your chair. The camps put the coils there and try to sit next to one. I didn't know this until the end of the trip and we got tons of bites there. By mid-June the mozzies should be gone.

Ladies- The best protection is to take a light cardigan sweater. Throw it over your shoulders and use the arms to tie it next to your chin. So many bugs hit us high on the neck and this blocks that area. Also a tee shirt with a collar can be turned up to protect the back of your neck. Men can do these things too.

Rocco- Your idea about the elephants is probably true. I couldn't imagine why they all were so aggresive. We saw mostly single bull elephants out by themselves. As soon as we got closer, they'd charge at us.

The camps all do bush walks and these type of activities. Most of the time you are looking out and don't see what's at your feet. Don't give up the nice activities, I only told you to warn you to be on the lookout. We absolutely loved the walking safari until the cobra showed up. To think I could have stepped on it still gives me the willies.

dlm- When I said you couldn't see the animals, I wasn't referring to the more common animals, i.e., elephant, kudu, impala, giraffe. I guess I have been to Africa enough that when I say a lot of animals, I mean the predators, i.e., Cheetah, lion, leopard, hyena, wild dog. Saw almost none of those. Too many places for them to hide. When I get my pictures up you'll see that you just see pieces of the animals. We took lots of bird pictures and scenery. Not what you'd expect to see. Mostly grass obscures everything. I never knew Botswana any way but dried and burned out. I'd never seen any grass there. What a difference.

This is a busy hunting season right now in Botswana. When the Delta gets wet a lot of the animals head to the Mopane areas up north. That is where most of the hunting lodges are. We saw lots of guns being shipped in. We also met a hunter when our plane stopped to pick up a guy at Camp Okavango. He told us he was up hunting and finished a day or two early and came to Camp O. to rest up. We never spoke to him and I'm afraid he thought we were mighty unfriendly, but, jeez, give me a break. Hunting is big in Botswana. The government blesses it and even when we were at Selinda which shares a border with Duma Tau, there were 'controlled hunting' signs. I was told that didn't mean anything. Oh well. Its their land, not mine. The government makes so much from the licenses that everyone just accepts it.

Kavey- Since Chief's Island is larger you shouldn't be affected by a lack of animals, but I would expect there to still be a lot of tall grass. Those animals don't seem to migrate as much to the north because of the large size of the island.

Well, back to bed. Maybe tomorrow a more fun trip report. Liz

Liz: thanks so much for sharing your Botswana experiences. I leave May 23rd and appreciate the timely advice. Of course, I absolutely hate insects and snakes...so it's good to prepare for the worst and hope for the best. I wonder if the elephants were in musk (I think that's what it's called), as I've only been charged once. Welcome back and I hope you feel better each day.

Hi Liz, thanks for sharing. I am leaving next week and they are very useful tips. Hope you recover soon.

Girlpolo,

It is "musth" or alternately "must.

From www.dictionary.com

musth also must ( P ) Pronunciation Key (mst)
n.
An annual period of heightened aggressiveness and sexual activity in male elephants, during which violent frenzies occur.

Liz, I am so sorry to hear about your fall and your continuing problems. I hope they are resolved in time and you are 100% again.

Other things to do about the bugs - my travel doc had some things for sale. One of them is a PERMETHRIN spray that you use to pre-treat your clothes before your trip. I believe this is the same thing in some flea sprays that break the cycle. We used this along with a strong insect repellent he had and of course the malaria pills. Long sleeves and pants, socks.
Read your insurance policy carefully as they differ on important issues such as pre-existing conditions, acts of war, other things.
We're looking forward to your recovery, Liz.

I got our trip insurance through the site Liz recommended -- wanted to be sure we are covered for just about EVERYTHING. Sounds like llee and I are the next ones to hit Botswana. It will be interesting to see if ccafrica changes one of the water-based camps to another someplace drier...their materials said they reserved the right to make changes and in this case, they might have to (both Sandibe and Nxabega are waterey locations) I still think I'll pack some coils to be sure that we don't get "et" at dinner! And on the plus side, I'll be far far away from this infernal tree pollen that's got my eyes watering and ears ringing.

Just got my travel insurance from Access America, recommended by American Express Travel Services. Phone number is 800-756-AMEX. For 30 days of coverage (my trip is 24 days total) it only cost me $83.50 per person and I was able to do it all within a 10 minute phone call, paying with my AMEX. Received my insurance cert in the fax within five minutes after hanging up! :)

$200,000 emergency evacuation insurance and beefed up benefits all around, including trip interruption/cancellation insurance.

Rocco:

Did you get a super deal or what??!!! I also purchased Access America directly from the company and paid $272.00!!! Next time I'll take your hint and try getting it through AMEX.
Thanks for the hint.

Also for those going to Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda et al I would highly recommend also getting the Flying Doctors Insurance (through AMREF). For $25.00 the doctors will fly in and evacuate you in an emergency. They are highly accessible to almost all the lodges and camps and probably would be your quickest triage were you to be ill or injured. The donations (fees) they receive from us, if not used, are put back to help Kenyans who cannot afford medical care.

Jan

Jan,

My great deal may also have to do with the fact that I bought the insurance with only 3.5 weeks to go before my trip (less chance for trip cancellation?). It is also based on age and whether you purchase it based on the dollar amount of your trip or based on the amount of time of your trip.

Initially, I was buying the insurance for 24 - 30 days and it was going to be double the cost, but the agent very nicely informed me that if I switched it to dollar amount that I would only need to pay the $81.00 per person + $5 service charge, and this was for a trip that is just over $10,000.

I cannot tell you how pleased I am that I am getting the rates that I have for just about everything so far on this trip. The only thing that I have been overcharged for so far, is the $42 wire transfer fee that I had to pay for wiring payment to Zambia. What do you expect from Wells Fargo? Wasn't worth my time or effort to go to Western Union or Moneygram to save $20.

-Round trip economy class air from LAX-London-Rome. $900 per person. www.travelocity.com

-Round trip business class air from London-Johannesburg-Lusaka. $120 per person + 80,000 ff miles.
www.americanexpress.com

-10 night Insight "Best Of Italy Tour." 4 nights in Rome (3 scheduled plus 1 pretour night), 2 nights in Tuscany, 1 night in Venice, 1 night in Assisi, 2 nights in Naples. $1625 per person.
www.affordabletours.com

-4 nights at Lower Kulefu Tented Camp in Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia.
$800 per person. ($200 pppns)
www.star-of-africa.com (direct booking)

-2 nights at Kaingo in honeymoon suite with private outdoor heated jacuzzi, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. $300 per person ($150 pppns)
www.kaingo.com (direct booking)

-2 nights at Mwamba, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. $280 per person ($140 pppns)
www.kaingo.com (direct booking)

-2 nights at Puku Ridge, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. $400 per person ($200 pppns)
www.star-of-africa.com (direct booking)

-1 night at Chichele Presidential Lodge, South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. $200 per person ($200 pppns).
www.star-of-africa.com (direct booking)

-Zambian Air Transfers. Lusaka to Jeki, Jeki to Lusaka, Lusaka to Mfuwe, Mfuwe to Lusaka. $500 per person.
www.star-of-africa.com (I would have never have been able to handle the Zambian air transfers by myself and was very pleased that Star Of Africa volunteered to handle this for me without even having to be asked)

-Very comprehensive travel insurance through Access America. $83.50 per person.
www.accessamerica.com or toll free number for USA 800-756-2639

-Wire transfer fees, Wells Fargo. $42 per person (2 transfers at $42 each).
Do yourself a favor and go to Moneygram or Western Union instead!

-Grand Total = $5,250 per person ($250 per person per night, and in "high season" no less, doorstep to doorstep). Cheaper than living in Los Angeles!

I may just have to become a gypsy who travels endlessly if this keeps up. :)

Jan, a point of clarification, if I may. The membership fee to the Flying Doctor's Society depends on where you travel. All areas within Kenya and most of Tanzania are $25. However, because we traveled to Selous, so far south in Tanzania and outside of the regular service area, our membership fee was $50 per person. Still a nominal price for peace of mind, but I just thought I should bring up the fact that the membership fee depends on where/how far you travel.

Some insurance requires that you buy it within days of paying for your trip... so check carefully (meaning it's probably meant to avoid people buying their trip, then realizing they can't go, then buying insurance...

Clematis,

Yes, you are correct. With Access America, my coverage does not start until tomorrow. I suppose they do that so that if anything had happened today to cause me to go run out and get travel insurance that they wouldn't be on the hook. Any documentation or evidence would have to have originated from tomorrow or later.

Roccco - it does seem that you got a deal at $83.50 at your ages, but as I read the program, while you have $200,000 for evacuation (something we should all consider for African travel especially) - the way I read it you won't be covered if your trip is interrupted. This means you won't get back portion of trip paid and not used.

JanGoss - for full coverage of trip cancel/interrupt and evacuation and all the rest and based on age can and does run in the $400+ range (for those of us who have a few years on Rocco and STD).

In fact, Roccco to be covered for interruption if you have to be evacuated at your ages the rate would be about $380/person (more in line with what Jan mentions and we've paid previously for our numerous trips). Granted should something happen and you have to be evacuated, the $200K is important and does the traveler really care about the unused portion of paid trip - but then some may. Also, since you're using FF tickets on your trip, the insurance company can't cover for something you haven't paid for, though you did pay for taxes.

These days, wherever one travels, especially out of your home country one should always have insurance to cover any contingency. Roccco you may have shortchanged yourself - assume something happens in Italy (with your in-laws* or yourselves) and you never even make it to Africa? There goes the money!

*and have they taken out insurance for their part of the trip?

ttt for Blacktie