Trip Report: Tanzania & Kenya July 2008
Aug 22nd, 2008, 11:42 AM
#21
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We drove from West Kili to Tarangire on a beautiful day. I was looking forward to staying at the Tarangire River Camp which we'd enjoyed so much 2 years ago. We knew that the camp had suffered the loss of it's trademark lounge which had been built around a baobab tree, but didn't know about the changes they'd made to the tents. The new lounge/dining room was very nice, with a firepit on the upper deck of the lounge. There were some lovely design elements in the new structure that were very attractive. However, our tent was a huge disappointment. The tents had been changed considerably with the addition of ugly green corrugated steel, and I have to say I was horrified. I didn't ask why this was done, I only know that I didn't like it. In our particular tent, the steel created several large gaps between the walls and floor in the bathroom. This steel on the tents was just nasty in my opinion and I didn't bother with taking pictures of the tent exterior this time.
We had a very good talapia supper at the River Camp and I still think they make the best pumpkin soup of all the camps. Breakfast was adequate but my least favorite breakfast of the trip. I would rate the staff at the River Camp as unimpressive. For those of you who are interested in knowing about guide accommodations, my guide indicated that the River Camp puts 5 guides in a tent which is a bit of a tight squeeze. Our guide reported that his other accommodations on this trip were far better than at the River Camp.
Overall, I'd have to say that my stay at the River Camp this time was a letdown from our stay 2 years ago, and I have no burning desire to stay there again.
Following a full day of game viewing in Tarangire Nat'l Park, we stayed at Maramboi Camp which was delightful compared to the River Camp. More on that next.
We had a very good talapia supper at the River Camp and I still think they make the best pumpkin soup of all the camps. Breakfast was adequate but my least favorite breakfast of the trip. I would rate the staff at the River Camp as unimpressive. For those of you who are interested in knowing about guide accommodations, my guide indicated that the River Camp puts 5 guides in a tent which is a bit of a tight squeeze. Our guide reported that his other accommodations on this trip were far better than at the River Camp.
Overall, I'd have to say that my stay at the River Camp this time was a letdown from our stay 2 years ago, and I have no burning desire to stay there again.
Following a full day of game viewing in Tarangire Nat'l Park, we stayed at Maramboi Camp which was delightful compared to the River Camp. More on that next.
Aug 22nd, 2008, 12:10 PM
#23
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Now I just read the Tarangire River Camp part. A little disappointing.
Back to West Kili. Was there talk of Lesser Kudu or did you see any?
If you don't think you can manage a return trip without a stay at Hemingways, that says volumes!
Back to West Kili. Was there talk of Lesser Kudu or did you see any?
If you don't think you can manage a return trip without a stay at Hemingways, that says volumes!
Aug 22nd, 2008, 07:16 PM
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Lynne, we saw one Lesser Kudu in West Kili....a <i>very</i> shy female, and although I got a picture of her, she was determined to keep some vegetation between us.
Thanks Raelond. We're sure glad we included West Kili this time around!
Thanks Raelond. We're sure glad we included West Kili this time around!
Aug 22nd, 2008, 07:29 PM
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Calo,
I'm just catching up on posts, and have only looked at your photos and they are wonderful. The view from Hemingway’s is to die for. The photos of the wildies all in a line, with such a clear line, says it all for the migration. What a great shot. You also got some really good up close shots (giraffe, baboon), but my favorite is one I think you titled "tiny tot". I also love the photos you included of the locals. Great pics. Now I’m off to read your report.
I'm just catching up on posts, and have only looked at your photos and they are wonderful. The view from Hemingway’s is to die for. The photos of the wildies all in a line, with such a clear line, says it all for the migration. What a great shot. You also got some really good up close shots (giraffe, baboon), but my favorite is one I think you titled "tiny tot". I also love the photos you included of the locals. Great pics. Now I’m off to read your report.
Aug 22nd, 2008, 07:43 PM
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Hemingway's sounds wonderful. The specifics on what you did/did not like about each location and why will be useful to others. Too bad about Tarangire. What a shame to stay at a camp you enjoyed 2 years ago to find it was no longer up to snuff.
Thank you for the description of the Massai well, where the women were feeding cattle. Combined with your photo it really helps put things into perspective, doesn't it?
I'm glad you and your dauther could experience this together. Was this her first trip to Africa or did she go with you last time?
Thank you for the description of the Massai well, where the women were feeding cattle. Combined with your photo it really helps put things into perspective, doesn't it?
I'm glad you and your dauther could experience this together. Was this her first trip to Africa or did she go with you last time?
Aug 23rd, 2008, 06:54 AM
#28
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Thank you for the nice comments about the photos, Dana. Yes, I think information about the camps and lodges is likely what I found most useful when planning my trips to Africa. Having said that however, I based a stay at one place this year heavily on the recommendations of one forum poster and that was a mistake. I'll be reporting about that experience in detail too!
My daughter and son both came with me on my last trip to Africa. My daughter is planning on coming with me again. My husband, on the other hand, has absolutely no interest in coming with us, but totally supports our going.
My daughter and son both came with me on my last trip to Africa. My daughter is planning on coming with me again. My husband, on the other hand, has absolutely no interest in coming with us, but totally supports our going.
Aug 23rd, 2008, 07:19 AM
#29
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You may recall my mention of lost luggage? I forgot to report that we got word while at Hemingway's that it had arrived in Arusha, so on our way to Tarangire, we picked it up. Although I had decided not to let lost luggage ruin my trip, I have to say I was pretty relieved when it did show up.
Tarangire park is a personal favorite of mine, despite the tse tse flies which can be miserable in places. The lower part of our vehicle was "hosed down" with insecticide at the park entrance this year which was a new experience for us. Our only disappointment with Tarangire this time was Silale swamp which had very little activity. We saw a few small herds of elelphant in the swamp, but not much else along that lengthy (but pretty) drive. Otherwise, we did see the expected large numbers of elephants, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest and baboons.
We were rather shocked to see an overturned safari vehicle on our second day in the park, and we never did find out what happened to it or it's passengers! I got some good pictures of the vehicle with a herd of elephants passing behind it which makes for some satisfactory reactions from a captive audience.
Our second night at Tarangire we stayed at Marabmoi Camp which is actually closer to Lake Manyara than Tarangire, but on the Western shore of the lake rather than the Lake Manyara Park side. This is a lovely camp with absolutely enormous tents set in a sandy, semi-desert palm tree/grassland environment which is quite different from other camps. The 10 tents are a little bit close together, but otherwise very, very nice with distant views of the lake. The common areas are beautiful, the food was good and the staff was great. We were able to charge our camera batteries at the bar. Our guide went off for a walk to the lake and got some great shots of the masses of flamingoes. The bugs were a little annoying at dinner time, but they didn't seem to be biting insects, and they followed our candle when we moved it away from our dinner plates, so all was good. I wonder what the insects would be like there in the green season. At any rate, we had a very nice stay at Maramboi and I'd choose to stay there again over the River Camp any day.
Tarangire park is a personal favorite of mine, despite the tse tse flies which can be miserable in places. The lower part of our vehicle was "hosed down" with insecticide at the park entrance this year which was a new experience for us. Our only disappointment with Tarangire this time was Silale swamp which had very little activity. We saw a few small herds of elelphant in the swamp, but not much else along that lengthy (but pretty) drive. Otherwise, we did see the expected large numbers of elephants, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest and baboons.
We were rather shocked to see an overturned safari vehicle on our second day in the park, and we never did find out what happened to it or it's passengers! I got some good pictures of the vehicle with a herd of elephants passing behind it which makes for some satisfactory reactions from a captive audience.
Our second night at Tarangire we stayed at Marabmoi Camp which is actually closer to Lake Manyara than Tarangire, but on the Western shore of the lake rather than the Lake Manyara Park side. This is a lovely camp with absolutely enormous tents set in a sandy, semi-desert palm tree/grassland environment which is quite different from other camps. The 10 tents are a little bit close together, but otherwise very, very nice with distant views of the lake. The common areas are beautiful, the food was good and the staff was great. We were able to charge our camera batteries at the bar. Our guide went off for a walk to the lake and got some great shots of the masses of flamingoes. The bugs were a little annoying at dinner time, but they didn't seem to be biting insects, and they followed our candle when we moved it away from our dinner plates, so all was good. I wonder what the insects would be like there in the green season. At any rate, we had a very nice stay at Maramboi and I'd choose to stay there again over the River Camp any day.
Aug 23rd, 2008, 11:32 AM
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On our way to the Crater, we stopped at an Iraqw boma for a cultural visit. Daniel, our host and owner of the boma was very engaging and informative. He is also the Grandfather of the cutest 3 year old I think I've ever seen in my life!!
The Iraqw primarily inhabit the Mbulu region between Lakes Manyara and Eyasi and are the 16th largest of the 120 ethnic groups in Tanzania. Daniel invited us into his home and for a tour of his little homestead. With his lovely wife Elizabeth at hand, Daniel told us about the history and customs of his people. We were invited to wear traditional Iraqw wedding skirts which Elizabeth had exquisitely embroidered with beads, and were taught a traditional Iraqw dance. We had a tour of the type of traditional home once used by the Iraqw to keep the onetime marauding Masai at bay. Built mostly underground, and disguised from above, this was an architectural marvel and unlike anything I'd ever seen before.
Daniel collects liquid and solid waste from the 4 cows he has on his tiny farm and uses the methane gas for light and cooking in his house. Leftover waste is used to fertilize his crops.
All in all, we found this to be a very worthwhile cultural visit because for us, Africa is about more than just the wildlife.
We had lunch and a short walk at Gibbs Farm after our visit with Daniel and Elizabeth. Lunch was superb, with lots of lovely dishes made from the fresh produce grown on the farm. We sat back and inhaled the air as we watched coffee from the farm being roasted. Then it was off to the Ngorongoro Serena for a night on the rim of the Crater.
The Iraqw primarily inhabit the Mbulu region between Lakes Manyara and Eyasi and are the 16th largest of the 120 ethnic groups in Tanzania. Daniel invited us into his home and for a tour of his little homestead. With his lovely wife Elizabeth at hand, Daniel told us about the history and customs of his people. We were invited to wear traditional Iraqw wedding skirts which Elizabeth had exquisitely embroidered with beads, and were taught a traditional Iraqw dance. We had a tour of the type of traditional home once used by the Iraqw to keep the onetime marauding Masai at bay. Built mostly underground, and disguised from above, this was an architectural marvel and unlike anything I'd ever seen before.
Daniel collects liquid and solid waste from the 4 cows he has on his tiny farm and uses the methane gas for light and cooking in his house. Leftover waste is used to fertilize his crops.
All in all, we found this to be a very worthwhile cultural visit because for us, Africa is about more than just the wildlife.
We had lunch and a short walk at Gibbs Farm after our visit with Daniel and Elizabeth. Lunch was superb, with lots of lovely dishes made from the fresh produce grown on the farm. We sat back and inhaled the air as we watched coffee from the farm being roasted. Then it was off to the Ngorongoro Serena for a night on the rim of the Crater.
Sep 3rd, 2008, 02:31 PM
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I'm really enjoying your report, especially the part about West Kili! Looking forward to more.
(Patty, I haven't been able to open the photo link, either.)
Looking ahead at your itinerary, I hope your stay at Karama Lodge wasn't the "mistake" you refer to. We really liked it (and I know I praised it in my trip report), but it's quite a bit more budget-level than these other nice camps you stayed at...
(Patty, I haven't been able to open the photo link, either.)
Looking ahead at your itinerary, I hope your stay at Karama Lodge wasn't the "mistake" you refer to. We really liked it (and I know I praised it in my trip report), but it's quite a bit more budget-level than these other nice camps you stayed at...
Sep 10th, 2008, 09:42 AM
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Thank you for your continued interest in my trip report and for your nice comments. I hope to continue with my trip report soon. I'm recovering from a kidney infection that became systemic. It's been a tough go, but I'm on the mend.
I don't know what happened to the original link to the photos. I'm hoping this one will work: http://tinyurl.com/6s7fav
I don't know what happened to the original link to the photos. I'm hoping this one will work: http://tinyurl.com/6s7fav
Sep 24th, 2008, 11:07 AM
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Hi all,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to my trip report. Here's a new link to my photos. Hopefully this one will work and stay working!
http://tinyurl.com/43o4gm
And on with the trip report....
Our stay at the Ngorongoro Serena was great. We had a huge room on the second floor with a fabulous view. I recommend a second floor room because the vegetation surrounding the lodge <i>can</i> obstruct views from the first floor. Although I prefer the ambience of tented camps over lodges, the Serena is a lovely lodge with great food and very friendly staff. With only 2 internet computers for large numbers of people staying at the lodge, the wait times for a computer can be a bit frustrating.
I think we were the first vehicle down into the crater the following morning. We witnessed hyenas chasing a herd of wildebeest and lions hunting zebra unsuccessfully, and we were lucky enough to have 2 very satisfactory up-close rhino sitings. The morning was quite cold, particularly with the vehicle roof open, but we had a great time in the crater huddled up in our shukas.
That afternoon we visited the boma of our guides uncle, which is only minutes from the Serena and <i>not</i> a "tourist boma". We arrived just as the cattle were being brought home, and we had the opportunity to be part of the milking. I was honoured to be given a calabash by wife number one! We had a great time at the boma and the visit there was one of many trip highlights for us...I wish I could speak Maa!
Sorry for the delay in getting back to my trip report. Here's a new link to my photos. Hopefully this one will work and stay working!
http://tinyurl.com/43o4gm
And on with the trip report....
Our stay at the Ngorongoro Serena was great. We had a huge room on the second floor with a fabulous view. I recommend a second floor room because the vegetation surrounding the lodge <i>can</i> obstruct views from the first floor. Although I prefer the ambience of tented camps over lodges, the Serena is a lovely lodge with great food and very friendly staff. With only 2 internet computers for large numbers of people staying at the lodge, the wait times for a computer can be a bit frustrating.
I think we were the first vehicle down into the crater the following morning. We witnessed hyenas chasing a herd of wildebeest and lions hunting zebra unsuccessfully, and we were lucky enough to have 2 very satisfactory up-close rhino sitings. The morning was quite cold, particularly with the vehicle roof open, but we had a great time in the crater huddled up in our shukas.
That afternoon we visited the boma of our guides uncle, which is only minutes from the Serena and <i>not</i> a "tourist boma". We arrived just as the cattle were being brought home, and we had the opportunity to be part of the milking. I was honoured to be given a calabash by wife number one! We had a great time at the boma and the visit there was one of many trip highlights for us...I wish I could speak Maa!
