Trip Report: South Africa; Kings Camp, Ngala Safari Lodge, September 2008
 

Trip Report: South Africa; Kings Camp, Ngala Safari Lodge, September 2008

Planning this safari (late in the year of 2007) had the added complication of whether my dear Carolyn would go with me. Her daughter Elaine Youngs would be playing international beach volleyball during the spring and summer of 2008 to qualify for the Beijing Olympics. If she (and her partner Nicole Branagh) qualified then Carolyn would go to Beijing and thus could not arrange to do a September safari. Well, Elaine and Nicole qualified and finished fifth in Beijing. This was Elaine’s third Olympics and at the Athens 2004 Olympics Elaine and her partner Holly McPeek won the bronze medal. Anyway, I planned my 2008 safari to be easy to travel by myself, that is, just a few simple plane flights and accommodations. Also, I wanted safari camps with no single supplement charge assuming I would likely be traveling alone. (And of course if it did turn out that Carolyn could go on safari then I already had the rooms reserved).

So I settled on going back to South Africa to a familiar camp and a new one for me and both in the Timbavati Reserve that borders Kruger. I had been to Kings Camp twice before and knew I’d love it while the Ngala Safari Lodge would be new for me. Thus my safari was eight nights at Kings Camp followed by eight nights at Ngala Lodge. Obviously I like long stays at camps. The rigors of getting to Africa (from the USA) are worth if for me only if I stay at least two weeks. This would be my fifth safari since 2005. Most of my previous days in camps, 59 days, have been in South Africa, being - Madikwe Hills, Kings Camp, Leopard Hills, MalaMala and Kruger Park. The other camps being in Zambia Nsefu and Tena Tena, in Botswana Khwai River Lodge and in Kenya Little Governors.

I paid camp rack rates, Kings Camp of 2,800 Rand per night and Ngala 2,400 Rand per night. But note the Kings Camp special where for the cost of six nights you get eight nights, so this works out to 2,100 Rand. At that time the Rand was 7.3 to 1USD. Airfare was $1,535 from Premier Travel, LAX to JNB. Plus another say $350 for air JNB to Hoedspruit and camp transfers.


Photography. On of my joys of safari is the challenge of photography. Primarily still photos but short videos also add another dimension. Since our first safari I have after each made a DVD that plays on a TV (and computer) of “This Was Our Safari”. And using only photos and videos from that safari, no old stuff from previous safaris. Each safari then has for me the additional photographic assignment to take new photos of impalas, elephants, zebras, etc to use in the new DVD. My present kit is a Nikon D200 on which is the 70-300mm VR lens, a Nikon D40X on which is the 18-200mm VR lens and a Canon S2. The two Nikon bodies give me a back up body and not having to change lenses. The Nikon lens combination works fine for me and is good for most everything except for birds – unless I can get within 10 meters of the them. The Canon is my video camera even though it is intended for photos. I downloaded full camera cards into two portable hard drives. I do not take a notebook PC. The three cameras and electronic support kit is enough for me to handle and worry about. I took only 1,700 photos and 200 short video clips totaling about 2 hours. This was not very many photos for me for 16 days of safari due to rather “challenging” weather, lighting, and viewing situations. More about this follows. About 30 photos are up on my smugmug web site at- www.tomgraham.smugmug.com. The top left thumbnail, SAFARI 2008, gets you into it. (Also photos from other safaris on site). A really measly few photos that I really like after two weeks on safari!!! And several of those are just “record” shots of the rooms and camp!!!! All photos have been “post processed” in Photoshop. Typically cropped, levels changed, sharpened, and more. I prefer to make these changes later in post processing on a PC rather than have the camera itself do it all.


Now on to safari. Well, not quite yet, have to get there first. Flight from California to New York, then on SAA to Johannesburg. Arriving some 31 hours after leaving my house. The rigors of safari!!!! And that’s just to JNB still not at the safari camp, another maybe 4 hours of travel time. For past safaris we have spent time acclimating to the destination and time zone changes (9 hours for me) by going over to Kruger for a few days before the private camps. But I didn’t want to do that by myself so I spent an extra day/night in Joburg. I stayed two nights at the Metcourt Laurel Hotel in the Emperors Palace complex. The Emperors Palace is a 10 minute free shuttle ride from the same shuttle stop used for many other hotels. My room at the Metcourt Laurel was very nice, quiet and comfortable. The included breakfast buffet was everything you could ask for. I got in about 6pm the first night, then slept off and on the next day/night. The hotel is part of the Emperors Palace convention, casino, shops, restaurant complex. An interesting place that provides some diversions not found at your typical hotel. That second evening I met at their hotel Chuck, aka Fodors “safarichuck”, and his charming wife Carol for dinner. Chuck and wife were in transit from MalaMala on to Botswana. We had a marvelous time chatting about safaris, photography and Fodors. Then the next morning I’m back to JNB for the SAA flight to Hoedspruit. Hoedspruit is the town just outside of Kruger and the basic commercial flight access to camps in the Timbavati Reserve.

KINGS CAMP. In 2007 I had been to Kings Camp twice. By myself in May and then in September with Carolyn and my sister Pat. I like Kings Camp, the manager Warren and wife Lisha are marvelous hosts. Warren is also an excellent ranger/guide. The camp has 11 bungalows, maximum 22 guests. The camp layout is quite nice, the bungalows very attractive decorated in British Colonial style. Complete spacious bathroom with double sinks are attached to the bungalow which makes it like two separate rooms. Also a small patio and outdoor shower. There are two photos on my smugmug of the room. Common camp facilities include a nice library with good internet service on a PC or you can wireless your notebook. The food/meals are excellent with gorgeous presentation, many thanks to Chef Himler. Excellent breakfast after the morning game drive, excellent lunch from 1:30pm to 3pm and guess what, also an excellent dinner after cocktails about 8pm in either the dining room or boma or on occasion an outdoor barbeque. Drinks, soda, wine beer, cocktails are included in the room rate. At dinner the game drive vehicle group and ranger dine together at a table. For breakfast and lunch you dine when and with whomever you wish. One other detail, since I was traveling alone I had made up a half sheet of paper with personal information, emergency contact, medical insurance, medjet, medications etc. and gave it to the camp manager.

Weather for the first three days was pleasant days with cool morning and evenings. Then for about three days it was very hot, 35C or about 95F, in the afternoon. Next evening a weather front blew across bringing very cool days and overcast skies to my last two days at Kings Camp. And it also followed me into Ngala Lodge. Sold overcast skies make photography most challenging and pretty much eliminates those “golden hours” after sunrise and before sunset.
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Trip Report: South Africa; Kings Camp, Ngala Safari Lodge, September 2008
KINGS CAMP – Continued

Game Drives. My ranger was Patrick and tracker was Albert. He and Patrick are good friends and it was fun to hear them chat in Shangaan. Patrick is the lead guide at Kings Camp, trainer for guides and an excellent photographer. We got along great and he was one of my best guides ever. The morning game drive begins at 6am after coffee and tea and we are back for breakfast at around 9:30am. The afternoon game drive begins at 3:30pm, sundowners and back about 7pm. So, when you’re in camp for eight nights, sixteen game drives, you expect to see a lot of game and I did. But many photo opportunities were hampered by not clear views and/or lighting/overcast skies. That’s wildlife photography for you. My only wish is that the afternoon game drive would start earlier, say 3pm.

On one afternoon game drive we saw all of the big five. On 10 of my 16 game drives there were 5 of us guests in the open Land Rover. On 6 drives there were 7 guests. (Private vehicles can be arranged for). The dominant male leopard in the territory, Macunjani, is being filmed for a TV special to be aired early in 2009 on either Animal Planet or National Geographic. We saw the film crew occasionally and they provided information on leopard locations and the camp guides likewise to them.

Big Five Sightings-
Leopards. Saw the dominant Macujani male on three game drives and the Mbali leopardess and her 6 month old female cub three times. Once a good view of Mbali drinking with the cub near by. Twice with an impala kill in a tree but view was not good so no good photos. Also saw two other leopardesses.

Lions. Saw the small Schobele pride of lions on 8 drives. Twice they started hunting but the terrain kept us from following. Saw the dominant male lion Schobele twice by himself and once gave us a very nice territorial roar/call up close. On my very last game drive we found the pride at an elephant carcass that had died of natural causes. Big male Schobele was feeding on it while the rest of the pride slept and waited their turns.

Elephants. Saw families of elephants on 10 drives. Some small families some large, maybe 12 members with calves ages a year upwards. But no very large, breeding herds.

Buffalo. Saw groups of old daga boys seven times. In the midst of large breeding herds of perhaps 400 animals three times. It is quite a sight to be surrounded by so many large buffalo.

Rhino. Saw the large dominant area male rhino three times.

Antelope. Saw impala continuously. Kudu, steenbok, nyala, waterbuck, bushbuck, duiker, often. Giraffe, warthogs. Hyena once. But no zebra!!!

Birds. Lots of birds, I love birds, many are so beautiful but I’m not a serious birder. Did see a Martial Eagle but too far away for photos. Not one single decent bird photo for me from Kings Camp. I really appreciate the beautiful bird photos taken by other photographers here.

Kings Camp is a pleasure. All of the staff from manager Warren to groundskeepers are very friendly and helpful. Ranger Patrick and tracker Albert were great and I know the other rangers are also great. The bungalows are lovely, cozy, quiet and the individual AC units keep them as you want. All meals wonderful, thanks Chef Himler. Game drives good, fun, and always interesting. Kings Camp stays in the top half of my list of favorite safari camps. Don’t be surprised to see me and Carolyn there again next year.
Continued

Trip Report: South Africa; Kings Camp, Ngala Safari Lodge, September 2008
Continued
NGALA SAFARI LODGE. Is also in the Timbavati Reserve and is one of CC Africa’s safari camps. There is another Ngala camp, the Ngala Tented Camp on the same property. I was at the Lodge. After breakfast at Kings Camp my tracker drove me in the Land Rover, about 30 minutes, to Ngala. As for that Kings Camp morning’s game drive the sky was overcast and drizzle kept the Rover’s windscreen wet. Ngala Lodge has 21 bungalows and thus can accommodate 42 guest. Thus the size of common facilities, dinning room etc. are twice the size of Kings Camp. The bungalows are nice but rather plain compared to Kings Camp. A photo of the room is on my smugmug. The Ngala bungalow is rectangular shaped with the bathroom entrance intruding into the room itself. The bathroom is very spacious with double sinks. The room decoration is functional but not really warm and cozy. I’d put the overall attractiveness of the room two steps above a bungalow at Kruger but also two steps below the bungalows at Kings Camp. For meals there are separate attractive open air dining rooms for breakfast and lunch, another dinning room for dinner and a boma. The food/meals were all excellent and the staff very friendly and attentive. Wake up call at 5:30am, coffee, tea, juice. Coffee, tea, hot chocolate with Amarula on the morning game drive. After the morning game drive a breakfast buffet, eggs cooked to order and fancy pancake dishes. Lunch 1pm until 2:30pm. Sundowners on the evening game drive. Dinner and cocktails around 8pm. Internet access, not much, you have to borrow a terminal from the main office or from the gift shop. I did one time to send an email and it was so slooooow.

Weather was overcast all that first day. Then turned sunny for about three days, another front moved in, overcast skies, then sunny, then another weather front for my last day. The overcast days also tended to be windy. Mostly tough weather for good photography.

Game Drives. When I checked in I told the manger I was an avid photographer and experienced safarier and I would appreciate a guide who knew some about photography. Well, my assigned guide did not. He thought that if there were light, if you could see the subject, that was all you need. He did not understand when I told him that I could not take good photos after 5 pm. Now, the official afternoon game drive time starts at 4pm and it is often later because the guide has to give a CC Africa pitch to new guests. And, it seems that for most every game drive we drove deep (south) into Ngala property to try and find a leopard and that took at least 30 minutes. Thus leaving very very little light for good photography – if we found anything to photograph. However, on my third day another German couple suggested we start the game drives at 3pm. A brilliant suggestion since what are you doing in camp anyway from 3pm to 4pm? The guide, bless him, said sure, we’ll do it. My guide however still somehow managed to get us at a sighting of two leopard cubs playing as the very last vehicle viewing. But the light was totally gone, we drove back to camp after viewing for a while. A 5/5 view of 5/5 animals but with 2/5 light, I wanted to cry. It was after that drive that I asked to be moved to another vehicle and guide.

Anyway, some game drive stats. Four game drives had four guests in the vehicle, three drives with five guests, seven drives with six guests, and two drives with seven guests. One of the seven guests drives actually had eight as a new European couple had their eight year daughter with them. The eight year old had no clue as to what the game drive was about and chattered constantly.

It seems that most every game drive required us to drive deep into the southern part of Ngala territory, past the Ngala Tented Camp, by at least 30 minutes. The drive back after sundowners in the dark was mostly boring. One time it yielded a lone hyena and another time two, yes two, African Wildcats within 10 minutes of each other.

Big Five Sightings-
Leopards. Saw two different females one with one cub and the other with two cubs three times total. Saw the cubs by themselves two times. Saw lone female leopards twice.

Lions. Saw large male twice, both times giving the territorial roar/call. Saw an old female and male juvenile cub once. Saw the Phelwane pride of 4 females and 9 cubs come away from a water hole after drinking. Too dark for decent photos, they were apparently headed back into Kruger to their kill.

Elephants. Were few, saw small family groups only twice.

Rhino. Saw rhino more often than eles!!! Rhinos on four occasions. Twice a female and calf. And twice a female, a calf, and an older bull.

Buffalo. A large herd at a water hole at sunset. A large herd one other time. Daga boy groups three times.

Hyenas twice. A small leopard tortoise once. A pair of honey badgers once in the dark. Two African Wildcats in the dark and about 10 minutes apart. A large monitor lizard in shade of a tree. Kudu on every drive. Of course impala always. Steenbok often, waterbuck, nyala on occasion. Birds, Crowned Plover on ground nest with two eggs was nice and nice photo. A lot of White Back Vultures on nests and Bateleur Eagles. Little bee eaters, lilac breasted rollers, and other pretty birds that I didn’t get a decent photo of.

In summary, the game drives were rather sparse of the big five. Even with 16 game drives the total is not impressive. It seemed that every game drive began and ended with at least a 30 minute drive way south and back. Admittedly the very cool overcast days made those jaunts seem even longer and less interesting.

Ngala Lodge was ok, just ok. It goes in the bottom half of my list of favorite safari camps. No plans to go back.

regards - tom

Good start, always interesting to read how camps compare year over year.

Some outstanding photos of unique and interesting actions. I love the leopard cub hugging its own tail. The big lion looking up from eating ele is powerful, and capturing the monitor between the trees and the crowned plover standing over the eggs were really good shots.

I look forward to reading more.

Thanks PB. Good eye to see the cub hugging its tail. Ain't no more, all above. You must have caught my posting in the middle of it while I was "replying to myself" with more report. That's why the funny "con" reply - Fodors evidently did not like the size of my next reply and I had to break it up more.

regards - tom

Yep, I had the nice surprise of the entire report waiting when I finished my posting of the picture comments.

Good report. It's too bad that Ngala was not more favorable, I have heard others that were disappointed too but at the other Ngala camps. On the other hand its great that King's Camp continues to deliver a product that you like and I'm sure your familiarity adds to the experience over the years. I have heard other good reports and the pricing seems like a good value for the quality of the experience in that area.

When these camps put 7 in a vehicle is one next to the driver or is there actually someone forced to a middle seat?

Thanks for posting the report, very informative.

You're welcome PB, happy to add to the knowledge (? :-) ) base here.

Both camps use Land Rovers that have three rows of seats behind the ranger/guide. The tracker sits on the left front fender. No one is forced to sit in the middle of two other guests. But sometimes they do voluntarily. So most all of the time the seventh guest sits in the seat next to the ranger. Especially true when there are three couples and a single. But me usually being the single, I did not let that force me always into that front seat. I don't like sitting behind the tracker and photography can be difficult shooting low over the ranger and vehicle. (Although I also do not many times like the perspective of sitting high and looking down).

Anyway, you asked me the time-of-day and I told you how to build a watch, didn't I :-)

regards - tom

Tom,
Some wonderful, even outstanding pictures here. The female leopard drinking is a prize winner, if I had to pick just one. Seems like you did very well for less than ideal light. Actually the lighting looks darn good. How do you stabilize your camera, bean bag, tripod-monopod? Nice insights into some camps I knew little about.
Ted

Through King's Camp only. It came through for you a second time, obviously, if you are considering a third.

Good idea on the vital info when traveling alone. Even better that the good idea was not put to use.

Will check out the pics.

Thanks Ted ;-)
The shot of the leopard drinking at Kings Camp I like but not sure on the perspective. Looking down from the top too much I think. Would have rather been much more level with her. But is nice shot of her entire body. We, ranger Patrick and I, were delighted to get those shots because the sun was fading very very fast.

The closeup (2nd shot) of the female leopard at Ngala is probably my favorite of the lot. There was just barely enough sun on the horizon to light up her face. Talk about your "golden hour"!!!! Afternoon sun light was scarce the entire trip. I was so thankful to see it then. Had missed it the day before with the two leopard cubs.

I do not use bean bags nor a monopod. Mainly because I'm lazy. And I confess I do get too many not sharp photos due to camera movement. However, thank God for ISO 400-800 that lets you use a decent shutter speed even near sunset.

Sep 2008, was my third time at Kings Camp. Was there also in May 2007 and Sep 2007. Going to Africa was twice in one year is great but not sure if I really want all of that flying so often. With South African Rand now at 9.2 to the 1USD, we may very well be at Kings Camp in 2009. Wish MalaMala would quote rates in Rand :-)

On the personal/vital information I gave to Kings Camp and to Ngala, I thought I would test them. At the end as I checked out I asked for the info back. Just to see if they actually kept it and knew where it was. Happy to say that both camps returned it immediately.

regards - tom

Great report Tom, haven't checked out the pictures yet but will do. Sounds like Kings Camp is a nice place-how would you compare it to MM?
Thanks for the report
Dennis

Tom,
Your reference to Ranger Patrick tells me that, next to lighting and subject, you have probably identified the single most important factor for good safari pictures, "the Ranger/Guide". I'm having a great time looking through all of your albums.
Ted

Dennis-
Compare Kings Camp to MalaMala. Well, for game, probably better to compare the Timbavati Reserve (where KC is) to Sabi Sand Reserve (where MM is). For game, the concentration in Sabi Sand is much higher than Timbavati, I believe. But don't have any facts to support that. So you see more game more often, especially leopards, in Sabi Sand. And especially at MM because of their choice property around the Sand River.

As to compare camp facilities, MM main and sable camps (not counting Rattrays) is much larger than KC, by about 4 times(?). The bungalows compare at about the same - except that MM has two bathrooms, his and hers(?). If they give you a suite at MM then you also have a separate sitting room off of the bedroom. And I must add that the staff at KC is more convivial than MM's. Excepting the rangers and managers who are great at both.

Your drinks at KC are included, soda, beer, wine, stock liquors. And importantly for you this includes g&ts. While at MM they charge you for all of these. And MM is twice the cost of KC.

Ted - Re rangers/guides. Whether or not you're into photography, they are the single most important factor in your stay at any camp. IMHO. And with my emphasis on photos I am probably more particular about my ranger than most guests. That the ranger will accept my/your exacting requests regarding vehicle positioning is critical. I missed many of good photos at Ngala that I would not have missed at KC with Patrick. Patrick would have been right there with his Nikon D200 firing away.

regards - tom
ps - glad you're enjoying some other safari albums.

Hi, my name is Farah. I just read your report. Very informative. We are planning to visit Kings Camp next Aug. The rates I got is R4100 for honeymoon suite (they don;t have anything else available) how did you end up with R2700 per nite?? Thanks

Farah

Farah,
is your quote for one or two persons?

R 4100 per person per night

Farah-
My base rate was 2,800 per night. But they had a special, I stayed 8 nights but I paid for only 6 nights. This works out to 2,100 per night per person. (2,800 times 6 divided by 8 is 2,100). Of course this was September of 2008. The rates are going up for 2009. I don't see a listing of them yet. But 4,100 per person per night sounds about correct for the honeymoon thing. Now, probably they would give you a deal where you can stay 5 nights and pay for only 4. But the best deal would be to not stay in the honeymoon suite. I expect the regular bungalow rate to be 3,500 pppn in Sep 2009.

Will this be your first African safari?

regards - tom
ps - here is Kings Camp web site -
http://tinyurl.com/3jrwz2

Why did you pick the lodge over the tented camp?0

Nice photos, especially the leopards and the monitor lizard.