Trip Report: MalaMala, VicFalls, Chief's Camp April 2007
Apr 20th, 2007, 01:32 PM
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Trip Report: MalaMala, VicFalls, Chief's Camp April 2007
I planned our just completed first safari trip (April 2007) with great help from the posts here on fodor's. Following the rules, here is my trip report! I’ve really tried to tailor this report to help clear up some questions I had during my research. Hopefully this report can fill in some “gaps” for other safari-goers….
We completed our trip from April 6-20, 2007. I planned the trip myself (with the help of all your posts on fodor’s) then contacted Mia and Go2Africa. I gave her my “itinerary” and she tweaked things. Both Mia and I made bookings—first I’d try and sample the rates, then Mia would try and (usually) get a better deal. The net result was some sizable savings. My wife and I are young (32) and she’s pregnant. We’re former backpackers with a new love of more “comfortable” accommodations. I have an eye towards value and this review will show it! Our trip was a last hoorah before baby life!
We left on SAA out of Dulles and flew to Cape Town. Four nights in Cape Town at David’s B&B—highly recommended. The staff was excellent and helped with car rentals, transfers, etc. We did a LOT of walking in Cape Town. Really, it’s a city best enjoyed with a car, which we had for 2 days. We did all the normal tourist things, and a day of hiking around the Cape Peninsula. This entire portion of the trip I arranged myself on the net and with David’s B&B help. Really a great, easy way to save $$$ and have a classy experience. A great 4 days.
Next we flew to MalaMala (via Kruger airport). We were booked for 3 nights at MalaMala main camp, but when we arrived we were told we had been upgraded to Rattray’s!!!! The first night there was only 4 of us, the other nights only 6. According to the manager, they like to keep “at least” 2 safari guides busy, thus our lucky upgrade. The experience at MalaMala was unbelievable. Worth every penny, and if I could I’d redo the entire trip to stay there. The wildlife sightings were superb—the big 5 the first night with a lion kill to boot! Even better for us is the fact that for the first ½ of our stay were had the guide to ourselves!
***I knew I’d post on Fodor’s, so I arranged an inspection of MalaMala main camp one lunch. I spoke with the staff, manager, and inspected a room. The comparison of main camp and Rattray’s really boils down to the room. At Rattray’s you get your own small, modern house. Otherwise, the food is from the same menu at both places (actually the cooks and staff switch back and forth—the food is nearly identical). Game guides alternate between the two though in Rattray’s you only have 4 guests per guide versus 6 for main camp. In my opinion, one should really, really ask whether a nicer room is worth almost twice as much, when all else is the same…but if it is to you then you’ll be in heaven at Rattray’s (we were!).
Next we slept over in Jo’Burg for one night (used my Hilton points at the Sandton Hilton) and were off to Victoria Falls. We slept at the Royal Livingstone for 2 nights. It was 2 nights too many. This hotel has been reviewed on Fodor’s, but I think the Royal Livingstone is a complete rip-off. It’s walking distance to the falls, which to me was the main purpose in going to Victoria Falls. The Zambezi Sun complex was even closer to the falls. I inspected this complex (owned by Sun International like the Royal Livingstone). The rooms were very nice and modern. In fact guests at either hotel can walk back and forth between the two and use facilities. So why not choose the cheaper hotel?? For others: stay at the Zambezi Sun for one night, visit the falls, and get on with something better—use the savings for another night at MalaMala.
We also trekked to Zimbabwe under the belief that life would be radically different there. Nope. I bought similar curios in Zim and Zambia for the same price despite resolute haggling. Think on this, for a U.S. visitor a trek into Zimbabwe runs $30 for a visa and another $20 for falls entry. For the two of us, an extra $100 was not worth it. If you stay at Zambezi Sun the falls entry (on Zambian side) is free. Or save the visa money for another giraffe curio in Zambia.
We also spent several hours trekking around Livingstone which gives a nice African city feel completely different from the façade at Royal Livingstone.
Next we were off to Botswana and Chief’s Camp. This was the most “iffy” part of my trip planning. I opted for Chief’s (over a lodge in Chobe) because of the reviews on Fodor’s, and because of its high predator sightings. Of course it is also mucho, mucho, more money. Honestly, after our two days there both my wife and I agreed we could have skipped it and been OK. Now we did see cheetahs and a fabulously large rock python—so there were some great sightings. But no lions!!! Argghh! My most vivid memory of Chief’s was driving around for hours seeing occasional impala. Oh, and the mice that left “presents” in our bed, and the swarms of inspects that made dinner inedible. So chalk me up as one who does not “get” the lure of Chief’s Camp. Maybe in the high water season it is much more fabulous, but in the future I’d spend the extra $$$ somewhere else—where I can’t comment, but maybe…MalaMala. Ah…there’s reflief!!!! The staff at Chief’s was really friendly though, and I honestly did keep a sense of wonder the entire trip!
It was a really fabulous trip. My suggestions for first time planners would be to exhaust this fodor’s sight, and use a good agent to help with the bookings and transfers. Oh, and minimize your time in Vic Falls. Maybe Bots is better for other folks, but it was really an expensive side trip for us. Thanks! Jason
We completed our trip from April 6-20, 2007. I planned the trip myself (with the help of all your posts on fodor’s) then contacted Mia and Go2Africa. I gave her my “itinerary” and she tweaked things. Both Mia and I made bookings—first I’d try and sample the rates, then Mia would try and (usually) get a better deal. The net result was some sizable savings. My wife and I are young (32) and she’s pregnant. We’re former backpackers with a new love of more “comfortable” accommodations. I have an eye towards value and this review will show it! Our trip was a last hoorah before baby life!
We left on SAA out of Dulles and flew to Cape Town. Four nights in Cape Town at David’s B&B—highly recommended. The staff was excellent and helped with car rentals, transfers, etc. We did a LOT of walking in Cape Town. Really, it’s a city best enjoyed with a car, which we had for 2 days. We did all the normal tourist things, and a day of hiking around the Cape Peninsula. This entire portion of the trip I arranged myself on the net and with David’s B&B help. Really a great, easy way to save $$$ and have a classy experience. A great 4 days.
Next we flew to MalaMala (via Kruger airport). We were booked for 3 nights at MalaMala main camp, but when we arrived we were told we had been upgraded to Rattray’s!!!! The first night there was only 4 of us, the other nights only 6. According to the manager, they like to keep “at least” 2 safari guides busy, thus our lucky upgrade. The experience at MalaMala was unbelievable. Worth every penny, and if I could I’d redo the entire trip to stay there. The wildlife sightings were superb—the big 5 the first night with a lion kill to boot! Even better for us is the fact that for the first ½ of our stay were had the guide to ourselves!
***I knew I’d post on Fodor’s, so I arranged an inspection of MalaMala main camp one lunch. I spoke with the staff, manager, and inspected a room. The comparison of main camp and Rattray’s really boils down to the room. At Rattray’s you get your own small, modern house. Otherwise, the food is from the same menu at both places (actually the cooks and staff switch back and forth—the food is nearly identical). Game guides alternate between the two though in Rattray’s you only have 4 guests per guide versus 6 for main camp. In my opinion, one should really, really ask whether a nicer room is worth almost twice as much, when all else is the same…but if it is to you then you’ll be in heaven at Rattray’s (we were!).
Next we slept over in Jo’Burg for one night (used my Hilton points at the Sandton Hilton) and were off to Victoria Falls. We slept at the Royal Livingstone for 2 nights. It was 2 nights too many. This hotel has been reviewed on Fodor’s, but I think the Royal Livingstone is a complete rip-off. It’s walking distance to the falls, which to me was the main purpose in going to Victoria Falls. The Zambezi Sun complex was even closer to the falls. I inspected this complex (owned by Sun International like the Royal Livingstone). The rooms were very nice and modern. In fact guests at either hotel can walk back and forth between the two and use facilities. So why not choose the cheaper hotel?? For others: stay at the Zambezi Sun for one night, visit the falls, and get on with something better—use the savings for another night at MalaMala.
We also trekked to Zimbabwe under the belief that life would be radically different there. Nope. I bought similar curios in Zim and Zambia for the same price despite resolute haggling. Think on this, for a U.S. visitor a trek into Zimbabwe runs $30 for a visa and another $20 for falls entry. For the two of us, an extra $100 was not worth it. If you stay at Zambezi Sun the falls entry (on Zambian side) is free. Or save the visa money for another giraffe curio in Zambia.
We also spent several hours trekking around Livingstone which gives a nice African city feel completely different from the façade at Royal Livingstone.
Next we were off to Botswana and Chief’s Camp. This was the most “iffy” part of my trip planning. I opted for Chief’s (over a lodge in Chobe) because of the reviews on Fodor’s, and because of its high predator sightings. Of course it is also mucho, mucho, more money. Honestly, after our two days there both my wife and I agreed we could have skipped it and been OK. Now we did see cheetahs and a fabulously large rock python—so there were some great sightings. But no lions!!! Argghh! My most vivid memory of Chief’s was driving around for hours seeing occasional impala. Oh, and the mice that left “presents” in our bed, and the swarms of inspects that made dinner inedible. So chalk me up as one who does not “get” the lure of Chief’s Camp. Maybe in the high water season it is much more fabulous, but in the future I’d spend the extra $$$ somewhere else—where I can’t comment, but maybe…MalaMala. Ah…there’s reflief!!!! The staff at Chief’s was really friendly though, and I honestly did keep a sense of wonder the entire trip!
It was a really fabulous trip. My suggestions for first time planners would be to exhaust this fodor’s sight, and use a good agent to help with the bookings and transfers. Oh, and minimize your time in Vic Falls. Maybe Bots is better for other folks, but it was really an expensive side trip for us. Thanks! Jason
Apr 20th, 2007, 02:43 PM
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Nice report, I'll be at MalaMala in September. I think the crossover to Zim is better in the dry season when the falls on the Zam side is just a trickle. Are you going to post pics? Congrats on the upcoming arrival!
Apr 21st, 2007, 08:04 AM
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Thanks for the great report! This was very helpful for us. Hubby and I are also in our early 30's and would like to go on our first safari next year, before we start our family! Glad to hear that your experience was great. We are starting to plan. By the way, how does it work with Mia? I always book our trips from fodors suggestions, research, etc. I am curious to see how much she helped and what it cost!
Apr 21st, 2007, 06:30 PM
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Lucky upgrade for you. How nice Mala Mala was such a hit. Cheetah and Chief's is not bad either.
Could you comment on the amount of rain you experienced? Whatever it was, it didn't seem to affect your viewing.
Could you comment on the amount of rain you experienced? Whatever it was, it didn't seem to affect your viewing.
Apr 22nd, 2007, 08:21 AM
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Hello!
I'm working on pictures. They're up on snapfish, but I'll figure a way to post a link.
JennaJ: Mia was a god-send for transfers from site to site. As for booking, she did save some $$ on some hotels, but MalaMala doesn't discount, so booking direct you may save the agent's commission. Mia was very willing to let me book and help with x-fers, etc. As a hint, SAA flies a daily flight to MalaMala, and the lodge itself will help arrange charter transport--really you could save quite a bundle if you're organized and a do-it-yourselfer.
atravelynn: We got some drizzle in Cape Town, and one real "african" downpour late one night at Malamala, but the whether was absolutely ideal, really a perfect time of year. And no mozzies either!
I'm working on pictures. They're up on snapfish, but I'll figure a way to post a link.
JennaJ: Mia was a god-send for transfers from site to site. As for booking, she did save some $$ on some hotels, but MalaMala doesn't discount, so booking direct you may save the agent's commission. Mia was very willing to let me book and help with x-fers, etc. As a hint, SAA flies a daily flight to MalaMala, and the lodge itself will help arrange charter transport--really you could save quite a bundle if you're organized and a do-it-yourselfer.
atravelynn: We got some drizzle in Cape Town, and one real "african" downpour late one night at Malamala, but the whether was absolutely ideal, really a perfect time of year. And no mozzies either!
Apr 22nd, 2007, 08:28 AM
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Just looked at my detailed notes and invoices for the trip; my "rate" at MalaMala was $550/night/person, booked through the travel agent. Why not approach it from both angles?
Apr 23rd, 2007, 08:11 AM
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Apr 23rd, 2007, 08:15 AM
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Thank you for the weather and insect report. Very promising for others traveling at this time.
For the photos, try emailing the site to yourself. Then paste that link in here. I was not able to get the photos.
For the photos, try emailing the site to yourself. Then paste that link in here. I was not able to get the photos.
Apr 23rd, 2007, 08:56 AM
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here's Jan's pics:
http://tinyurl.com/2obbbh
Beautiful pictures, great leopard shots and liked the hyenas.
Thanks!
http://tinyurl.com/2obbbh
Beautiful pictures, great leopard shots and liked the hyenas.
Thanks!
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