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Top Secret Trip Report: P_M's Covert Operations in Israel

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Top Secret Trip Report: P_M's Covert Operations in Israel

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Old Feb 21st, 2007, 03:25 PM
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Top Secret Trip Report: P_M's Covert Operations in Israel

Hello all. I posted this in the lounge forum because that's where all of my crazy friends hang out, but I think it belongs here too in case anyone is interested. Additionally, I made a cheesy audio trailer to promote my trip report, so please click the link for a preview of coming attractions.
http://www.twango.com/media/briwik.public/briwik.10001


Disclaimer: I took some creative liberties in describing our heroine. In fact, I took quite a few creative liberties. But aside from that, everything in my trailer is true. Report to follow.
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Old Feb 21st, 2007, 03:27 PM
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I flew American Airlines from AUS/DFW/JFK, then I flew El Al from JFK to Tel Aviv. When checking in at the Austin airport I was chosen for “additional random screening.” At the time I foolishly believed this truly was random, but eventually I learned it wasn’t random at all. Otherwise the flights to DFW then to JFK were uneventful, but when I got to JFK it all got pretty interesting. AA could not give me a boarding pass to the El Al flight so I had to go directly to El Al’s check-in counter. I already knew that El Al’s security procedures were very strict, but I had no idea of what I was in for. As expected, they asked me a zillion questions about why I was going to Israel and who would I see when I arrived. They also asked me which hotel I would be going to in Tel Aviv. (hold that thought about the hotel, it will be important later) They had 3 different people questioning me at different times, but of course my story was always the same. I told them again and again that I don’t know anyone in Israel and I’m going with a Gate 1 tour. They questioned me about my accent, or the lack thereof. They found it strange that I don’t have what they perceive as a Texas accent. What were they expecting me to sound like, John Wayne? GW Bush?? I explained that Texas is a very large and diverse place and we don’t all sound alike. They asked all sorts of ridiculous questions, many of which they had just asked me 2 minutes ago. I suppose this is their way of tripping up a dishonest person.

They were bothered that I didn’t have a suitcase with me, but I told them I checked it in Austin when I left, and it was checked thru TLV. They got into a huddle about that, speaking Hebrew of course. I don’t know what was said, but I knew they would find my suitcase and search it. That’s OK w/me, but I was later miffed when I saw that they had cut off my TSA lock. Then they told me to leave my carry-on bag and go away for 30 minutes. It bothered me that they were going to search my bag without me being present. However I was in no position to make the rules and I thought that protesting would only make it worse so I complied.

When I returned 30 minutes later they went through my purse, my jacket, and patted me down. I am happy to say there was not a strip search, although I was fully expecting it at that point. Finally they told me that an “escort” would walk me to the gate. I knew that “escort” was a silly euphemism for “guard.” My guard told me that I must stay with her at all times. I told her I would like to go to the ladies room. She said I could, but I must leave everything in El Al’s care, even my purse!! She said I could take my wallet and passport, but it must be re-inspected after I’m finished.

My guard and I went into the ladies room and she told me to wait before entering a stall. She looked into every stall and finally said to go ahead. I did my thing and she waited outside the stall. She watched as I washed my hands and we went on to the gate. She told me as soon as the plane is ready I will board ahead of everyone else.

Throughout this experience the people at El Al were very courteous and professional, but I must say they put the fear of God into me. Of course they were questioning everyone, but I was the only one being placed under guard and watched every step of the way. I wanted to buy some NY souvenirs at the stores near the gate, but being guarded was making me so nervous I didn’t dare ask if I could shop. I asked the guard a couple of times why they are doing this and she kept saying it’s random. I knew this wasn’t true, there was a reason I was being singled out, but for the life of me I couldn’t figure out why.

As promised, I was escorted onto the plane ahead of everyone else. At that point I thought my surveillance was over, but little did I know it was just beginning…..More to come.
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Old Feb 21st, 2007, 03:28 PM
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(going back in time to when I booked) After booking my ticket I selected my seat on elal.com. I chose a seat in the empty row which is second to the back. I thought this way I might get lucky and have a row to myself. At the time I made this selection on the internet, the seats beside me and the entire row behind me were all vacant. The very next day I looked at El Al’s web page again and all of those seats were blocked, as if someone had taken them. For this reason I was very surprised when we were about to push back from the gate and nobody was in any of those seats, beside me or behind me. Were my seatmates all no-shows? Very strange.


The mystery man

By using Bond music in my trailer I fear that I have presented the mystery man as having the looks of James Bond. I wish I could tell you that the mystery man looked like Sean Connery, Pierce Brosnan, or even Timothy Dalton. But no, he was not tall, dark, nor handsome. I regret to inform you that he looked more like the Israeli version of Hermann Munster, only shorter, older and less attractive.

Just before take-off the mystery man appeared, telling the flight attendant he was going to sit in the row behind me. At the time I thought nothing of this, as most people like having a private row to stretch out. The plane took off around 8pm and dinner and wine were served. The food was quite good and I really enjoyed the Israeli merlot. (wine was free, BTW)

I slept as much as possible through the night, then about 2 hours before landing in Tel Aviv they turned on the cabin lights to serve breakfast. That’s when the mystery man behind me made his move. He struck up a conversation, then he moved to the seat next to me. I really didn’t want any company, as were flying over Greece, Croatia, etc, and I wanted to enjoy the view. But this pesky man plopped himself into the next seat as if we were pals. UGH.

He told me a lot of interesting things about Israel, (he was Israeli) but at the same time he asked me a lot of personal questions, such as where do I live, what kind of work do I do, and who will I be seeing in Israel. Like the people at the airport in NY, he asked the same questions again and again. But these questions were so interspersed with factoids about Israel, I thought at first he was just an overly-friendly guy who would eventually make a move on me. Needless to say I wasn’t interested so I made a point of mentioning that I’m married, but that had no effect.

Just before landing he went back to his seat, but as we were waiting to get off the plane he started chatting me up again. He asked how I would get to my hotel and I told him I would take a taxi. He said he was going to rent a car and he could give me a ride. I felt like saying, “Do I have the word STUPID tattooed on my forehead??” Of course I would never get into a car with a man I don’t know, so I told him politely but firmly that I will taxi. I said goodbye and thanks for the info about Israel, thinking I would never see him again. But I did.

I arrived at my hotel in Tel Aviv, checked in and had a shower. I came back to the lobby to get some local info and to have an afternoon walk. Guess who was in the lobby?? You got it, the mystery man!! He acted like this was a major coincidence, but he wasn’t a very good actor and it was obvious to me there was nothing random about this situation. I can’t describe it, you had to be there, there’s simply no way this was by chance and I knew I had been followed. I said a quick hello, and please excuse me, I have things to do.

I went out for a walk along the Mediterranean and it was lovely. My hotel was right by the water and I couldn’t have been more pleased with the location. I walked for several hours, having yet another “chance” meeting with the mystery man, where I had to make excuses not to visit with him. I returned to the hotel lobby and I’ll be darned if that pesky man wasn’t there AGAIN!! When he spoke to me, I said a brief hello and kept walking.

Around 6pm there was a meeting for the members of our Gate 1 tour. During that meeting I met some very nice people and we agreed to go to dinner together. We went to a fab restaurant called the Manta Ray, right on the water. I returned to the hotel with around 4 members of my group, and there he was again, right there in the lobby. He tried to speak to me but I just waved and completely blew him off. At the time I still thought this was an overly-assertive man who thinks that any woman, married or single, is fair game if she’s traveling alone. Thankfully that was the last time I would see the mystery man, but I later learned he wasn’t just a desperate stalker, it was more than that. Stay tuned….
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Old Feb 21st, 2007, 03:29 PM
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Solving the mystery

A few days into the trip I was telling these stories to some people I met, including some Israelis. At the time I thought there was no relation between Israeli security and the mystery man, so I spoke as if these were separate incidents. An Israeli in the group started laughing and said to me, “I promise you, I guarantee you, 100%, that man on the plane was an Intelligence agent who was watching you!!” I found this impossible to believe, but read on.

First of all, anytime El Al sees a reservation for a woman traveling alone, she is placed on the watch list. So this is why I was chosen for “random screening” in Austin, and also why I was searched so thoroughly and guarded at JFK. They say I am an exact match for a certain profile of a “target.” A target is a woman traveling alone, and most targets in the past have been blonde. Such women are considered targets for Arab men, as they supposedly can be tricked into taking bombs on the plane. She went on to say there have been several incidents in recent years where women fitting this profile have unknowingly shown up at the airport with bombs. These women are innocent, as someone either snuck the bomb into their bags or tricked them into taking something on the plane without knowing it was a bomb. This is why they kept me under guard and got me on the plane quickly, so no Arab man could get to me and put a bomb into my carry-on.

She went on to say that once on the plane, they had the agent sit near me to keep an eye on me. This would explain why all of the seats around me had been blocked by El Al, so they could have room for the agent. This would also explain why the mystery man was asking me the same questions as the people at the airport. And like the El Al people at JFK, he asked these same questions again and again, like he was trying to trip me up. I was told that he would compare notes between what I told El Al in NY with what I told him. Furthermore, the El Al people in NY had asked me at which hotel I was staying, so they provided him that info in order to find me.

I still had a hard time accepting this guy was with Israeli intelligence, it just seemed too incredible they would take an interest in me. I asked my new Israeli friend why that guy was following me around Tel Aviv. She said that he was making sure I really did join the tour group, and that I wasn’t meeting with an Arab boyfriend. She reminded me that the last time I saw the mystery man I was with the group. So once he was satisfied that I did join the group and everything I told him was true, his work was done so he disappeared. Although I had a very hard time accepting all this at first, I gave it a lot of thought, and now it all makes sense. But in either case (stalker or surveillance) it’s a pretty bad feeling for something like that to happen on my first day in a new country.

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Old Feb 21st, 2007, 03:30 PM
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On with the trip:

So why did a good Fodorite like me choose a tour? Well first of all, DH had no interest in Israel and he doesn’t have much vacation time so he didn’t go. I have traveled alone and independently before and it has its benefits, but I really enjoy the company of others so I chose a tour. The thing I liked most about this group was that it was about half Christian and half Jewish. I did not want a tour that was exclusively one or the other, as I wanted to see both sides of Israel and hear all perspectives by meeting people of both faiths. (in case anyone is wondering, I am Christian) Gate 1 offers a great tour and I recommend it.

On our first full day we had a morning tour of the old city of Tel Aviv and the afternoon was free. On the previous day (before the tour actually began) I had spent the afternoon walking along the Mediterranean. I enjoyed that so much I decided to do the same, only I went in a different direction. I walked to Jaffa, which is a lovely, very old-world looking town on the sea. In addition to the old town, Jaffa has a very nice park with flowers blooming even in Feb. If I ever return to the Tel Aviv area I will spend a great deal more time in Jaffa.

The next day we drove up the coastline to Caesarea. As the name would suggest, Caesarea is an ancient Roman city, complete with a Roman theatre and ruins. Of course Feb is not good snorkeling weather, but in the warm season you can snorkel near Caesarea and see more ruins underwater. We went on to Haifa, where we saw a few buildings which had been destroyed by the Lebanese in last summer’s bombings. We went to the top of the hill above the Bahai Gardens. The gardens were incredible, but sadly it was a cold, rainy day with a fierce icy wind blowing, so exploring the gardens wasn’t too appealing. From this hill we could see the Lebanese border. I would like to see the gardens again someday in warmer weather.

We visited Nazareth and the Church of the Annunciation. This is where the angel appeared to Mary to tell her she is with child. The church was fabulous. We also saw what’s believed to be the home of Mary and Joseph, and of course Jesus. As a Christian I found these sites to be fascinating, but I am sorry to say that the city of Nazareth itself was quite dirty and impoverished looking. I think this is sad, but I’m happy to say this was the only part of Israel that really looked unclean to me.
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Old Feb 21st, 2007, 03:30 PM
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We continued on to Tiberias and our hotel was right on the Sea of Galilee. I was very surprised to learn the Sea of Galilee is actually a lake and it is the primary water source for Israel and Jordan. It was a beautiful lake and we were fortunate enough to see a rainbow over it.

The next day we visted a lovely mountain town called Safed. We went on to visit a kibbutz, which is an Israeli commune. It was interesting to see how these people all live and work for the good of their commune, and they all draw no salary but the same allowance, regardless of their position. Not the life for me, but it’s always good to learn about another way of life. We went on to the Golan Heights, an area once in dispute between Israel and Syria. Our tour guide happened to be a veteran of the war between Israel and Syria, when Syria tried to reclaim the Golan heights. We visited the memorial to those who lost their lives in that war. Also we drove past several miles of minefields. Yes folks, we’re talking land mines!! The warning signs for land mines were everywhere. According to our guide, the Syrians planted these land mines while occupying the Golan Heights. Eventually when the Syrians were driven out, they very rudely refused to leave maps as to where the mines are. So to this day these land mines still exist. This land is used for cattle grazing, but our guide said there are some 3-legged cows in those fields, and there are other cows that aren’t so lucky as to only lose a leg....

The next day we took a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee. Once again, it was cold as heck with hard rain and cold winds. But once we set sail, the sun came out and we had beautiful views. We docked on the other side of the sea and the weather got ugly again, but that’s OK because it was all perfect timing for our boat ride, sorta like a miracle. We went on to visit the place where Jesus stayed with Peter, then the place of multiplication of the loaves and fish. We also made a stop at the River Jordan to see the Baptismal place of Christ.

We went on to the Dead Sea, a place I’ve wanted to visit ever since learning about it in school. The air temps were not bad at the Dead Sea, but the water was ice cold. I walked out into the sea as far as I could and my feet were cramping badly from the cold. I waded out of the water as fast as possible and trotted at record speed back into the hotel. My poor little feet felt like icebergs!! But thankfully our hotel had a heated indoor pool with Dead Sea water, so you can get the same experience without freezing your buns off. I got into the pool of Dead Sea water and it felt really oily. Then suddenly it was like the water wanted to spit me out!! I barely raised my knees and suddenly my feet were out of the water!! I have never in my life been able to float in a swimming pool, but in this Dead Sea water it’s almost impossible to keep your feet under for very long. I tried to swim by doing the breast stroke, but the water pushed my legs up to the surface, and kicking was very hard because the water was so dense. I found the easiest and most comfy way to be in that water was to assume a sitting position, like you’re in a chair, and the only easy way to swim was the backstroke.

We later went to Masada, a hilltop fortress. I have seen Masada on the Travel Channel, but I had no idea it was so huge and well preserved. I could have made a day of exploring Masada, but as we know, the big drawback of a tour is the limited time in certain places. Nevertheless we had 2 hours to see Masada so we saw the highlights.
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Old Feb 21st, 2007, 03:31 PM
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Jerusalem

Wow. Finally at last, my lifelong dream has come true. Visiting Jerusalem was something I had waited for all of my life. I grew up hearing Bible stories and I wanted so badly to see all of those places. In the past few years I had tried several times to plan trips to Israel, but it always got cancelled due to unfortunate events there. Then one day I was on this board and our poster artlover told me to just GO!! I would like to think I would have gone anyway, someday, but artlover’s post gave me the kick in the butt I needed to just do it, so I did. Thanks artlover.

I still remember when we came over the mountain range and there was Jerusalem, in all her glory. This caught me completely off guard, but seeing it for the first time brought tears to my eyes. We stopped on the Mount of Olives and the group shared a toast. It was already late in the afternoon so we went on to the hotel. But the next several days would be the most exciting of the trip.

The next day we were up early and visited many major sites around Jerusalem, such as the Wailing Wall, where a Bar Mitzvah was underway. We visited the Via Dolorosa, (walk of Christ carrying the cross), the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (site of the crucifixion), King David’s tomb, the room of the Last Supper, and the Roman Cardo. We saw the Jewish Quarter which was IMO the prettiest part of the Old City. It was exciting but very rushed. But thankfully I would have the chance to return a couple of days later.

The next morning we visited the Israel Museum where the Dead Sea scrolls are kept. We went on to the Holocaust Museum, which was very emotional for many of us. Later that afternoon I took an optional tour to Bethlehem to visit the birthplace of Christ. Bethlehem is no longer a part of Israel, it’s now in Palestine. As you may know, the US State Dept advises against any travel to Palestine, so we had to sign releases in order to go there. We went through a border checkpoint, but they didn’t ask for passports. While in Palestine, I found the people to be most friendly and welcoming and I never felt unsafe. And of course, it was such a thrill to be at the Church of the Nativity and to see the little grotto which is believed to be the birthplace of Christ.

On our last day in Israel we spent the morning at the Museum of the History of Jerusalem, then our afternoon was free. Some friends and I decided to go back to the Stations of the Cross and to really spend some time seeing it. We also re-visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which houses the place of the crucifixion. We wanted to return to these places because we felt so rushed when we were there before and we wanted to really take it all in. Although there are many Holy places in Israel, I must say the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the one that was the most inspiring. I stood by the place where it’s believed they nailed Him to the cross. The feeling was overpowering. I wish I could describe it better, but I can’t. We waited about 30 minutes in line to touch the rock of Calvary, where the Cross was affixed. It was well worth the wait, and it gives me chills to think about it, even as I sit here and type about it.

As we all know, there is some debate as to the authenticity of these Holy sites. I realize these places I saw might or might not be the exact location of the birth, the crucifixion, etc. But all religion involves a certain amount of faith without much empirical proof.
Therefore I decided to go on faith that it’s all very real, and these are indeed the Holy places where these events occurred. But even if these are not the precise locations, so what? The inspiration was real, it’s still alive, and that’s why I went to Israel.

Thanks for reading my trip report.

THE END



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Old Feb 21st, 2007, 05:39 PM
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Great trip report P_M.

I just love the whole El Al Security thing. A bit scary tho, I'm sure. Interesting tho that they blocked those seats w/in 24 hrs of your reservation, as I don't think they knew you were blond at that point. Also, you are married. So, actually, you don't fit their profile that well. But what a great tale to tell!!!

Thanks for posting such an interesting trip report.
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Old Feb 21st, 2007, 05:46 PM
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P_M...I just listened to your audio. Hysterical!!!!and well done.

Thanks, Nat
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Old Feb 22nd, 2007, 04:04 AM
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Thanks for your nice words, nat. Yeah, the security proceudres are a big scary, but if it saves even one plane load of people, it's worth it.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2007, 05:20 AM
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PM,
What an entertaining and informative report. Are you a writer - if not you should be.
The first part of your story had me on pins and needles - that is all so surreal. Sounds like you kept your head. Geez, to think you could have caused an international episode LOL.
Your descriptions of the sites you saw make them real enough to want to see.
Thanks for sharing your trip!
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Old Feb 22nd, 2007, 06:50 AM
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Very entertaining indeed!!! and very surrealistic!

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Old Feb 22nd, 2007, 08:16 AM
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I must admit I'm not planning to visit Israel any time soon, but your trip report and "trailer" are real hoots. Thanks so much for sharing.

Jim
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Old Feb 22nd, 2007, 10:05 AM
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Interesting story about the security search etc.
I travelled to Israel about 20 years ago (way prior to the post-9/11 era, obviously), and have a less dramatic story to tell.

I was on a packaged tour, leaving from JFK. The procedure seemed simple -- all members of the tour handed in their tickets and passports which were placed in a pile on the counter. An El-Al security person would pick up the next passport, call the name, spend 60 seconds asking the standard security questions, and hand back the passport.

Except that when they got to one particular passport instead of calling the name, they called a huddle. I'm standing there in the crowd thinking, oh-oh, that person has a problem. And then they called my name. First one person interrogated me for 15 minutes. Then a second person took over and interrogated me for 15 minutes. Then a third person took over, while the first two people compared the answers I had given.

They kept asking who my boyfriend was (I didn't have one, which they viewed as quite suspicious). Who paid for my trip (I did, which was also suspicious). How did I earn the money for my trip (working at my job). What I was going to live on while I was there (I was extending my stay for 6 days after the tour, and had plenty of travelers checks, and cash, and credit cards). Where did I work? What did I do there? What was my boss's name? What was my boss's telephone number?
When I gave the number, the interrogator gestured to someone else to go check out the number. I explained that it was now off-hours and no one would answer. They had me recite the off-hours message that they would hear when they called. Etc. Etc. Etc. I had an irrational urge to confess, but couldn't think of anything to confess to.

The tour leader was trying to help, but they would not let him approach closer than 10 yards, and would not let him speak.

After 45 minutes of this, all of a sudden someone came up to my interrogator and whispered something, and he suddenly said. "OK, you can go".

I always wondered what it was about.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2007, 11:59 AM
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P_M -- your audio is hysterical -- and well done!! I loved the international intrigue portion of your report. It sounds scary and exciting. With regard to your trip report, well, the tour sounds fantastic and I want to go to Israel.

Good job, all the way around.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2007, 02:37 PM
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+Going to Isreal is always interesting with the security. One question asked by all airlines is, "Did anyone ask you to bring anything?" Well, I was bringing a very large box (by far, the largest box I have every put with luggage on a plane) from a close friend to his children and grandchildren containing among many other thing a tricycle. What to answer? No, I said. What is in the box, things for children of relatives. NO problem.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2007, 02:59 PM
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Thanks to everyone for all of your nice words. Cybor, I'm not a writer, but writing this report was a joy and making this trailer was great fun.

It sounds like a lot of people have some interesting stories about Israeli security. I'm glad to know I'm not the only one with a strange story to tell. I hope to go back to Israel someday, and next time I'll know to expect the unexpected.
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Old Mar 1st, 2007, 10:58 AM
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"In 1986, Anne Marie Murphy, a young Irish woman, was planning to take an El Al flight from London to Tel Aviv to meet the parents of her fiance, a Palestinian. Murphy, who was pregnant, had no idea that the man she was planning to marry had hidden plastic explosives and a detonator in one of her suitcases. Israeli profilers interviewing Murphy found out about her boyfriend, got suspicious, and then discovered the bomb before the jumbo jet took off."

So what do we have ...

A single woman, traveling alone, going from Texas to New York to Tel Aviv.
Not only is she traveling alone, but her husband opted to stay home and not join her to go on a long trip to what we perceive as a dangerous part of the world.

She is very nice, but doesn’t talk like a Texan (or what they perceived to be a Texas accent), and she has no family in Israel, no friends, no connections, and is suppose to join a group of strangers later on.

*** Not only that but her luggage is en route to Tel Aviv bypassing El Al’s security check point. ***

I’d say you’re lucky they even let you get on the plane.
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Old Mar 7th, 2007, 09:01 AM
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Great trip report! I'm glad you enjoyed your trip to Israel --- I think it's amazing that every time they dig to build a skyscraper/office tower in Israel, they find a Roman ruin. Just FYI, there is not (yet) any nation of Palestine. Bethlehem is in the West Bank, part of Israel that is administered/policed by the Palestinian Authority, still technically part of Israel but the majority of residents are Muslim. You're lucky you went to those holy sites; most tours do not venture to Bethlehem any more.
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Old Mar 7th, 2007, 06:55 PM
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elmom, thanks for clearing up the confusion about Palestine. We went through what looked like a border checkpoint, and we were told to have passports ready if necessary. But once we got into Palestine I noticed they were using Israeli currency, so I wasn't sure if it was part of Israel or not. I do feel lucky for visiting Bethlehem. One of the reasons I chose Gate 1 is because they offered this excursion, while most of their competitors didn't.
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