The Great Gorilla, Elephant and Surprise Migration Tour
Aug 2nd, 2010, 10:02 PM
#62
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Okay, Leely.... now I understand why you got bitten by tse tses - drove into a hole! Perfect timing and lucky someone came along so quickly. 
However, I guess that was just prepayment for the crossings the next day.
However, I guess that was just prepayment for the crossings the next day.
Aug 3rd, 2010, 07:36 PM
#63
<b>Looking for Duma and More Celebrity Animals</b>
I heard upon arriving at KBC, "We've had a cheetah family here on the conservancy since October but no one has seen them for four days." So we looked and looked. We saw lions. We saw leopards (Olive from BBC's Big Cat Diary + ?? young ones). We saw elephants, topis, waterbuck, bushbuck, giraffes, impalas, Tommies, Grant's, hyenas, black backed jackals, a tortoise, hippos, crocs, butterflies, a serval, and everything else under the sun but no cheetahs (nor pangolin nor rhino nor dogs). When we ran into other vehicles, which was rare this time of year, everyone said the same thing: "Have you seen cheetah?"
I had to remind myself repeatedly, "The focus of this trip was always going to be gorillas and elephants. Don't be so greedy. You had a bat-eared fox snacking on bugs outside your tent at Ithumba. You dodged a silverback and two baby gorillas in Rwanda. Your arm is all bruised and cut from baby elephants in Tsavo." And I had already seen the Migration, the crossings, that insanity. But finding myself in the wide open savannah again, I just wanted more.
Does this happen to other visitors? We did finally find three cheetah brothers, though not the family that had formerly been ranging on the conservancy. Beautiful creatures--but is it me or are there fewer cheetahs these days? Well, I know there are fewer, they are a far more fragile animal than the leopard, say. I suppose what I want is for people to tell me that they are somehow, impossibly, thriving. Tell me my expectations were simply too high for a day--just a morning, really, of concerted searching--in the Mara.
<b>Which Do You Prefer, Lions or Elephants?</b>
What James asked me as we chose a sundowner spot one evening. We chose elephants. As we sat there watching them, they decided to come down a bit and surround the vehicle.
<b>The Dread Tse Tse Fly</b>
<i>Somewhere</i> in Tsavo West and <i>somewhere</i> on the Olare Orok conservancy, and of course I have no idea where exactly, there are tse tse fly areas. Some people get bitten and don't feel it but then have really itchy, itchy reactions a day or so later (the Belgian woman staying at KBC and I) . Others get bitten and feel it and it hurts in the moment. Still others get bitten and have not much of a reaction at all: the guides, the camp staff, the Belgian woman's husband, the KBC camp manager, the other guests.
Some of us are just very lucky people. Anyway, this time I had a million bandaids, toothpaste, a topical from my derm leftover from a bout with poison oak I'd just gone through, Benadryl, etc. So I made a concerted effort not to allow any scratching--even sleep scratching. And it wasn't too bad.
I heard upon arriving at KBC, "We've had a cheetah family here on the conservancy since October but no one has seen them for four days." So we looked and looked. We saw lions. We saw leopards (Olive from BBC's Big Cat Diary + ?? young ones). We saw elephants, topis, waterbuck, bushbuck, giraffes, impalas, Tommies, Grant's, hyenas, black backed jackals, a tortoise, hippos, crocs, butterflies, a serval, and everything else under the sun but no cheetahs (nor pangolin nor rhino nor dogs). When we ran into other vehicles, which was rare this time of year, everyone said the same thing: "Have you seen cheetah?"
I had to remind myself repeatedly, "The focus of this trip was always going to be gorillas and elephants. Don't be so greedy. You had a bat-eared fox snacking on bugs outside your tent at Ithumba. You dodged a silverback and two baby gorillas in Rwanda. Your arm is all bruised and cut from baby elephants in Tsavo." And I had already seen the Migration, the crossings, that insanity. But finding myself in the wide open savannah again, I just wanted more.
Does this happen to other visitors? We did finally find three cheetah brothers, though not the family that had formerly been ranging on the conservancy. Beautiful creatures--but is it me or are there fewer cheetahs these days? Well, I know there are fewer, they are a far more fragile animal than the leopard, say. I suppose what I want is for people to tell me that they are somehow, impossibly, thriving. Tell me my expectations were simply too high for a day--just a morning, really, of concerted searching--in the Mara.
<b>Which Do You Prefer, Lions or Elephants?</b>
What James asked me as we chose a sundowner spot one evening. We chose elephants. As we sat there watching them, they decided to come down a bit and surround the vehicle.
<b>The Dread Tse Tse Fly</b>
<i>Somewhere</i> in Tsavo West and <i>somewhere</i> on the Olare Orok conservancy, and of course I have no idea where exactly, there are tse tse fly areas. Some people get bitten and don't feel it but then have really itchy, itchy reactions a day or so later (the Belgian woman staying at KBC and I) . Others get bitten and feel it and it hurts in the moment. Still others get bitten and have not much of a reaction at all: the guides, the camp staff, the Belgian woman's husband, the KBC camp manager, the other guests.
Some of us are just very lucky people. Anyway, this time I had a million bandaids, toothpaste, a topical from my derm leftover from a bout with poison oak I'd just gone through, Benadryl, etc. So I made a concerted effort not to allow any scratching--even sleep scratching. And it wasn't too bad.
Aug 3rd, 2010, 07:59 PM
#64
<b>"I Hear a Lion Playing."</b>
James and I were watching some lion cubs on the conservancy. He asked if I was okay with my photos because he heard a lion "And it sounds as if it's playing with a mongoose." Eeek, that's what the shrieking was. Poor mongoose. At one point it got away from the lion and came flying under our vehicle. The lion waited, circling the car. The mongoose waited. And after about five minutes made a clean getaway.
<b>Vincent</b>
My tent steward at Kicheche Bush Camp. Studied business administration in university then went to work for a mining concern after graduating. He quit "Because it was too dangerous, not a good job." He hopes to advance in tourism. I hope Kicheche helps him because he is tops, just a great guy with so much going for him, very smart.
<b>The End!</b>
Kenya, Rwanda, how I love you. Like all these trips, I go for the wildlife and then I end up meeting so many delightful people.
When I left Rwanda, everyone said to tell my family and friends to come visit. Same with Kenya. They said, "Tell people to come to Kenya. Hakuna matata, we welcome them." So I say to the readers of this board, <i>Go!</i> Go to Rwanda. Go to Kenya. You won't regret it and you won't forget it.
I will post a link to my gallery/slideshow whenever I finish my photos. It's the editing that kills me, the necessary ruthless culling of all my little memories. In the meantime, if anyone has specific questions I am happy to answer. I realize I skipped many pertinent details and dwelled on the irrelevant.
James and I were watching some lion cubs on the conservancy. He asked if I was okay with my photos because he heard a lion "And it sounds as if it's playing with a mongoose." Eeek, that's what the shrieking was. Poor mongoose. At one point it got away from the lion and came flying under our vehicle. The lion waited, circling the car. The mongoose waited. And after about five minutes made a clean getaway.
<b>Vincent</b>
My tent steward at Kicheche Bush Camp. Studied business administration in university then went to work for a mining concern after graduating. He quit "Because it was too dangerous, not a good job." He hopes to advance in tourism. I hope Kicheche helps him because he is tops, just a great guy with so much going for him, very smart.
<b>The End!</b>
Kenya, Rwanda, how I love you. Like all these trips, I go for the wildlife and then I end up meeting so many delightful people.
When I left Rwanda, everyone said to tell my family and friends to come visit. Same with Kenya. They said, "Tell people to come to Kenya. Hakuna matata, we welcome them." So I say to the readers of this board, <i>Go!</i> Go to Rwanda. Go to Kenya. You won't regret it and you won't forget it.
I will post a link to my gallery/slideshow whenever I finish my photos. It's the editing that kills me, the necessary ruthless culling of all my little memories. In the meantime, if anyone has specific questions I am happy to answer. I realize I skipped many pertinent details and dwelled on the irrelevant.
Aug 3rd, 2010, 10:04 PM
#65
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Okay, Leely. I am convinced... I'll go!
Such a nice trip report and so interesting to read about someone else's visit to places I loved and want to go back to. I think I can wait another year now after 'revisiting' with you.
Your sightings were really rather impressive and I look forward to seeing those little momeories that survive the slaughter!
Such a nice trip report and so interesting to read about someone else's visit to places I loved and want to go back to. I think I can wait another year now after 'revisiting' with you.
Your sightings were really rather impressive and I look forward to seeing those little momeories that survive the slaughter!
Aug 4th, 2010, 09:34 AM
#67
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You've convinced me too...I'll have to go again, even though I just returned a week ago. I must confess I usually skim over people's trip reports, but yours was unusually entertaining and compelling.
FYI - The cheetah family (mom and two cubs) were very much present in the O.O. Conservancy during our visit. We saw two kills (both times with Kicheche vehicles present), and the mom clearly deserved celebrity status for her skill. We also spotted two other random, non-famous cheetahs on our way to view the crossing. I guess you'll have to go back as well!
FYI - The cheetah family (mom and two cubs) were very much present in the O.O. Conservancy during our visit. We saw two kills (both times with Kicheche vehicles present), and the mom clearly deserved celebrity status for her skill. We also spotted two other random, non-famous cheetahs on our way to view the crossing. I guess you'll have to go back as well!
Aug 4th, 2010, 12:54 PM
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Hi Leely!
I finally had a chance to read through your whole report -- what a wonderful trip you had, and I'm so glad you got to meet our friends, the family formerly known as Group 13.
You made me laugh out loud, and you also brought tears to my eyes (stirring up my own memories of Rwanda). In other words, you basically made my day. Thank you! MDK
I finally had a chance to read through your whole report -- what a wonderful trip you had, and I'm so glad you got to meet our friends, the family formerly known as Group 13.
You made me laugh out loud, and you also brought tears to my eyes (stirring up my own memories of Rwanda). In other words, you basically made my day. Thank you! MDK
Aug 4th, 2010, 05:21 PM
#69
Well folks, it looks like our Kenyan brethren may have a real constitution! Yay!
cyn, thanks for reading. I haven't seen any bear photos from you in a while. What gives?
crosscheck, how lucky you all were with the cheetahs! Isn't the O.O. Conservancy superb? I can't wait to see your pictures once you've settled in.
MDK, I'll be looking for your Mongolia report. Even though I don't think you should have another place you like as much as Sub-Saharan Africa.
And kimburu I look forward to reading about your journey into the heart of Bots--after the trip, of course. I hope there are adequate haggling opportunities for Mrs. Kimburu.
Lynn, there is a giant, almost-complete building that says "Microsoft" on it in Kigali. Given the lack of jobs in Rwanda my fingers are crossed for that place to be humming. This weekend I watched "Shake Hands with the Devil," the doc about U.N. General Romeo Dallaire's experience during the genocide. Interesting and of course heartwrenching.
cyn, thanks for reading. I haven't seen any bear photos from you in a while. What gives?
crosscheck, how lucky you all were with the cheetahs! Isn't the O.O. Conservancy superb? I can't wait to see your pictures once you've settled in.
MDK, I'll be looking for your Mongolia report. Even though I don't think you should have another place you like as much as Sub-Saharan Africa.
And kimburu I look forward to reading about your journey into the heart of Bots--after the trip, of course. I hope there are adequate haggling opportunities for Mrs. Kimburu.
Lynn, there is a giant, almost-complete building that says "Microsoft" on it in Kigali. Given the lack of jobs in Rwanda my fingers are crossed for that place to be humming. This weekend I watched "Shake Hands with the Devil," the doc about U.N. General Romeo Dallaire's experience during the genocide. Interesting and of course heartwrenching.
Aug 5th, 2010, 03:54 PM
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Regarding the photos--wonderful bathing shots of the eles and drinking shot of the baboon. Cool perspective on the monitor. The migration surprise is nicely documented and though lions in the Mara are no surprise, you have great shots of them too!
Aug 15th, 2010, 07:18 AM
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Leely,
How dare you change your name. I've been looking everywhere for this report but the 2 after your name threw me off. Does this mean that there are 2 or 3 of you?
Anyhow, love the pictures and your wonderfully done report. Your adventure sounds perfect - Gorillas, Patty and Mark - who could do better than that. This is a trip worth book marking. The Gorillas are waiting for me.
How dare you change your name. I've been looking everywhere for this report but the 2 after your name threw me off. Does this mean that there are 2 or 3 of you?
Anyhow, love the pictures and your wonderfully done report. Your adventure sounds perfect - Gorillas, Patty and Mark - who could do better than that. This is a trip worth book marking. The Gorillas are waiting for me.
Aug 15th, 2010, 12:07 PM
#74
Hi cybor, good to see you again and thank you for the nice comments. There are definitely a whole gaggle of Leelys. Just ask Patty and Mark.
<b>Gorilla trek timing:</b>
I was originally planning on going to Rwanda and Kenya in late May. Then Patty asked if I wanted to join them at Ithumba and there was no way I was going to miss that. So I decided on June. I would imagine the trekking is more challenging during the very rainy season--April to mid-May according to the guides and rangers I spoke with. It rained overnight between my first and second trek and the second trek was definitely more of a slog. A guy from Sweden lost his shoe in the mud twice. It rained on our way down the mountain that day too.
My ranger* told me that his favorite time with gorillas is during "bamboo season," which I believe coincides with long rains. He says they eat the new leaves/shoots and get kinda drunk and goofy on them.
It's such a great experience I would go any time of year--but it's probably much more difficult in terms of walking and photography during long rains.
*I accidentally dramatically overtipped my first day and then had the same ranger each consecutive day. Weird.
My porter for my last trek. I definitely needed his help through the mud, under the bamboo, across the log, etc.:
http://www.pbase.com/image/127478582
<b>Gorilla trek timing:</b>
I was originally planning on going to Rwanda and Kenya in late May. Then Patty asked if I wanted to join them at Ithumba and there was no way I was going to miss that. So I decided on June. I would imagine the trekking is more challenging during the very rainy season--April to mid-May according to the guides and rangers I spoke with. It rained overnight between my first and second trek and the second trek was definitely more of a slog. A guy from Sweden lost his shoe in the mud twice. It rained on our way down the mountain that day too.
My ranger* told me that his favorite time with gorillas is during "bamboo season," which I believe coincides with long rains. He says they eat the new leaves/shoots and get kinda drunk and goofy on them.
It's such a great experience I would go any time of year--but it's probably much more difficult in terms of walking and photography during long rains.
*I accidentally dramatically overtipped my first day and then had the same ranger each consecutive day. Weird.
My porter for my last trek. I definitely needed his help through the mud, under the bamboo, across the log, etc.:
http://www.pbase.com/image/127478582
Aug 16th, 2010, 07:50 PM
#76
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The massive crossing and many wildebeest made a believer out of you. I like how getting stuck can be considered "parked at an unusual angle."
Maybe the abundant rain brought out the snakes. I'll be looking for them.
To save 20 minutes the nzuri road was not such a great deal.
Maybe the abundant rain brought out the snakes. I'll be looking for them.
To save 20 minutes the nzuri road was not such a great deal.
Aug 18th, 2010, 10:34 AM
#77
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Leely,
I finally got to read your excellent TR all the way through. Ithumba, gorillas, the migration. Wow, what a terrific trip! And a good read, too.
Your conversation with James about his son reminded me of talking with our TZ guide, Joseph. His family lives in southern Tanzania and he goes home to visit them during the heavy rains in April/May. I'm reminded of how often people in developing countries have to live far away from their families in order to make a living.
I really enjoyed your pictures of gorillas and monkeys. But I especially enjoyed those from Ithumba as we sponsor a couple of Sheldrick eles and intend to visit Ithumba.
I finally got to read your excellent TR all the way through. Ithumba, gorillas, the migration. Wow, what a terrific trip! And a good read, too.
Your conversation with James about his son reminded me of talking with our TZ guide, Joseph. His family lives in southern Tanzania and he goes home to visit them during the heavy rains in April/May. I'm reminded of how often people in developing countries have to live far away from their families in order to make a living.
I really enjoyed your pictures of gorillas and monkeys. But I especially enjoyed those from Ithumba as we sponsor a couple of Sheldrick eles and intend to visit Ithumba.
Aug 18th, 2010, 04:16 PM
#78
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Good memory Leely! No bear photos this year - but this is some of what I've been seeing out back: http://tinyurl.com/3ynol8m
