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The African Safari compared to the Indian Safari

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The African Safari compared to the Indian Safari

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Old May 25th, 2011, 08:10 PM
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The African Safari compared to the Indian Safari

These comparisons are based on one recent trip to India and numerous trips to Africa.

I had heard and read that my expectations for India should be held clearly in check after going on Africa safaris. I had been warned about cheering sections when a tiger was spotted, people tumbling out of vehicles, and general pandemonium. I was cautioned to be prepared to be “horrified.”

Far from horrified, I was impressed and enchanted. What helped, I believe, was going at a non-peak time (not Christmas/New Years and after Holi), allowing Wild World India to negotiate all the paperwork and secure all permits for the parks, paying extra for a private vehicle, and having outstanding naturalists that had been selected by Wild World India. But the people I encountered who did not have quite the exclusive arrangement that I did also seemed to be very happy and some of them were wildlife enthusiasts who travel the world.

What also helped me and will help everyone else is within the past year or so Bandhavgarh (which was the source of some of the worst stories) changed the rules to limit the number of vehicles and where they may go.

The tiger sightings did generate a gathering in all three parks I visited, with much maneuvering of vehicles, plus some standing atop the Gypsy. But all the vehicles stayed on the road, or shoulder so there was no surrounding the tiger and it was not possible to pursue the tiger off-road. Everyone remained in/on the vehicle, and I heard no shouts.

Other than tigers, I was alone for almost all other sightings--and the list of other sightings above is extensive. With most vehicles on a tiger mission, having other animals or birds to myself was not hard. When non-tiger sightings were shared, usually it was just another vehicle or two at most.

I was surprised at how many of the same species of birds, or very similar species, were present in both locations.

From the sheer standpoint of visual impact, not much from any country or continent compares with the tiger!

Some differences between African and Indian safaris included:

Those little Gypsy vehicles in India were great and more maneuverable than Land Rovers or Cruisers.

The forested terrain makes sightings tougher than the openness of the African savanna, although there are meadows in the Indian parks.

Listening for alarm calls and observing animal behaviors to spot predators was more prevalent in India. Waiting in areas that seemed promising based on alarm calls took up a greater percentage of our outings in India than Africa and more times than not, the wait did not produce a predator. The type of habitat in Indian parks meant we had to work harder and have more patience for our sightings than in most parts of Africa.

Even though my list of mammals and birds was extensive, there is not the variety or abundance of the typical African safari destination.

That queue at the park gates in India in advance of starting times does not occur anywhere I have been in Africa. However at the larger African lodges, the jumble of vehicles departing in the mornings or afternoons may number the same; but just lack the organization of an official queue.

There is a definite emphasis on seeing the single species of the tiger in India, whereas in Africa the emphasis is diffused among a greater number of predators. In both places, I found the naturalists were responsive to expanding the fauna emphasis to all creatures great and small.

In Africa I usually have not encountered local tourists at the places I have visited, most are international. In India it was nice to visit with Indian tourists. I found the Forest Rest Houses in Corbett offered the best opportunity for interaction. At Dhikala Forest Rest House the cafeteria-type setup for meals and an assigned seat by the host meant I had meals with numerous people and all were Indians.

In Bandhavgarh (though not in Kanha or Corbett) vehicles are assigned to a specific track, which is not the case in Africa. Not only must they remain on that track or route, but they need to maintain a designated distance between vehicles (except for tiger sightings or I suppose leopard or sloth bear). That means you cannot linger to your heart’s content at non-tiger sightings. I found that after a tiger had been spotted, then it seemed that the rules were relaxed for maintaining the designated place in line. The result of these rules is that rarely do you encounter another vehicle during the outing, unless there is a tiger sighting that can draw in up to 10 or 11 vehicles from your track.

The ability to view predators from an elephant is unique to India (and other Asian destinations), although I saw a hyena from a camel once in Africa and there are places such as Abu’s and Amalinda where it is possible to ride an African elephant. Longer elephant safaris that last a good part of the day, or even several days are possible in Corbett, though I didn’t partake. I was pleased to learn that mothers with cubs are not approached by elephant.

At the parks and lodgings I stayed at in India, I did not have the remote, secluded tented camp experiences that I have enjoyed in Africa. But I think it is possible for a price.

Speaking of price, India was not as expensive as Africa.

Food at the lodges in India was primarily Indian, with a rare appearance of continental cuisine, whereas in Africa food tended to be continental, with a few choices of African dishes. Most of the Indian dishes were not excessively spicy.

When taking a packed lunch, that wobbly sausage that often is found in the African lunch boxes was nowhere to be found in the Indian packed lunches, which were predominantly vegetarian.

Both offered rewarding and exhilarating nature and wildlife and the fact that I am so privileged as to be able to even offer comparisons between these two locations is something I do not take for granted.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 08:16 PM
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The whole big old trip report is on the Asia forum.
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...delhi-agra.cfm


<b><orange>P</orange>H<orange>O</orange>T<orange>O</orange>S</b>

Some of the Kanha and Bandhavgarh shots were taken by my naturalists with my second camera. I’d recommend that practice. All combined, there were 3700 photos taken in the 3-week trip.

<u> Kanha, both Kisli and Mukki – 115 photos, labeled </u>
#1-24 are tigers; tiger show photos are indicated.

Last 22 photos are accommodations, facilities, and mounting/dismounting the elephant for the tiger show.

#115, the last photo, is the all important <b>ADAPTER</b>, used throughout the trip successfully to recharge camera batteries. I am proud of the setting I managed for my adapter photo-shoot.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...hotos-_-Sharee


<u>Bandhavgarh, Train, Delhi, Taj Mahal – 50 photos, labeled</u>
#1-12 are tigers; no photos from the tiger show.
Accommodations, train, Delhi, Taj are the last 18 photos.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...hotos-_-Sharee


<u>Corbett, both Biranji and Dhikala – 75 photos, labeled</u>
#75, the last photo, is a tiger in a Where’s Waldo shot.
Photos #65-#74 are accommodations and facilities.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...hotos-_-Sharee
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Old May 25th, 2011, 10:52 PM
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Thanks, atravelynn. You always have great info. The comparison of the two is interesting. I've been interested in a "tiger tour". I may be convinced. Brazil first, though. (again on your recommendation)

When are you writing your travel book?
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Old May 26th, 2011, 05:17 AM
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Thanks, Lynn. This is a topic of interest to me. My understanding, from talking to folks who have been on an Indian safari after having experienced multiple safaris in Africa, is that while an Indian safari is an interesting experience, its completely different in terms of animal viewing and professional tracking compared to both southern africa and East Africa. One friend said the closest comparison was a tiger sighting at Rathambore to the minivan clogged river crossings in the Mara. In general, the comparison was not favorable. Also, very long periods devoid of meaningful wildlife sightings. The number of big game is evidently quite limited. Another friend just came back from Kaziranga park in Assam, one of the worlds great Rhino (Indian) habitats and said while it was a great experience, infrastructure was poor, staff training bad- at an unexpected tiger sighting which occurred as they were photographing some birds, with the tiger slowly walking towards the road near where the vehicle was parked was ruined by the driver unexpectedly excitedly gunning the engine to show the tiger to the clients resulting in the tiger naturally reversing course. General conclusion, Indian parks have a long way to go before they can become bonafide safari destinations. But this is all second hand, so your views as a highly experienced African safari enthusiast are very valuable.
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Old May 26th, 2011, 07:04 AM
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So many places, eh, Christabir? No book in the works, but can I interest you in North Dakota, USA?

AKR1, though I have not been to Rathambore, the # of vehicles around any tiger I saw in Kanha, Bandhavgarh, or Corbett was less than those at the Mara River in Sept of 2011. Of the 25 tiger sightings, 3 of them were just us, so that was nice.

To minimize crowds, I think I'd go for Pench or Tadoba based on research and word of mouth. I did not choose them because I wanted to give myself the best chance of seeing a tiger. I knew if I did not seen one at some point on this trip, I would be disappointed.

Also if you go a little later than I did, like into May, I think the crowds thin out. But the temps rise.

Not sure when your friend was in Rathambore and also not sure how their rules work. But I do know that in the last couple of years--and even within just this last year--Bandhavgarh has tightened rules to reduce the demeaning carnival atmosphere.

Probably 3/4 of my time in all 3 parks I saw no other vehicle.

When the tigers were not close to the road, and of course you could not go off-road, there also was less crowding of vehicles even if 12-15 were present because the angle of view was wider. There are not as many roads or tracks in the Indian parks as in the African parks so viewing is done from just the main roads which can put more distance between you and the animals. Not as close of shots at times, but it also accommodates more vehicles which cannot pursue the tiger.

At the end of the Kanha album is a pic of the queue to get into the park and at the end of the Corbett album is a picture of vehicles grouped and looking for a tiger. No doubt about it, these are crowds.

As for "meaningful sightings," I found the Kisli section in Kanha had the highest concentration of living creatures to look at when no tiger was around. It was hoppin' there. But you need a guide who is skilled enough to spot this other stuff that may be hidden and that guide needs to be willing to spend time with it. I considered my 20 minutes with a rat snake rustling through leaves very meaningful, for example. The entire rat snake sighting was just us, as were most non-tiger sightings, except for ele herds in Corbett.

If you can include birds into the "meaningful sightings," then there is far less down time. If you can develop an interest in Chital (the ubiquitous spotted deer) there's a lot more to look at. And those deer can present a challenge to photograph because they like the shade and often turn their backs to vehicles. Though in Corbett the larger Chital herds seemed more relaxed.

As always, guides/naturalists are crucial, and your gunning the motor example in Kaziranga illustrates this. I probably paid more by having an intermediary (Wild World India) choose my guides<b><orange>*</orange></b>. And what a job they did in providing excellent guiding! Even my transport driver was an extraordinary birder who took me on a productive 2-hour bird walk in Corbett.

But in a 3 to 3.5 hour game drive, it was typical to have only 5 to 15 minutes of predator sightings, and on several outings we had no predators. Waits as alarm calls sounded could last 90 minutes and more often than not, a predator never materialized. But during the wait there was usually something else to look at. My only Barasinga (rare antelope) calf photo was taken during one of these lengthy waits. Some lucky people got to sit for an hour or two with a tiger, though I did not.

With India's population and relatively fewer wild areas in comparison to Africa, the experience in India will always differ from that of Africa.

If a private vehicle in Botswana or one of the conservancies in East Africa is what you prefer, then Indian parks will not measure up to expectations.

<b><orange>*</orange></b> Here's an example to further emphasize the importance of maintaining excellent guiding and how Wild World India can manage that even with a hiccup in the plans.

Rajan, my Kanha guide was supposed to accompany me to both the Kisli and Mukki sections. During our days in Kisli, it became evident that a family emergency would not allow that. In fact, I even told Rajan that he should make other arrangements for a guide for me in Mukki and remain at home. (Everything turned out just fine, thank goodness, so happy ending for Rajan's family.) Rajan, who is well known in Kanha, did an excellent job and I thought that the stand-in could never match him. Well, Rajan's brother, Ashok took over in seamless fashion, and was just as skilled and renowned his little brother. The mark of a good operation is one that can handle problems with no negative impact to the client. That's exactly what happened with me.

Relating this to cricket, Wild World India has tremendous depth in the guides it uses to maintain quality, just as the Men in Blue had a whole roster of talented batters to win the World Cup.
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Old May 26th, 2011, 10:46 AM
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Good info Atravelynn -I've never even thought about India as a wildlife destination. Your photos are spectacular! Really. Nothing like a big cat for sheer beauty, but all your photos are great
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Old May 26th, 2011, 11:26 AM
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Thanks for this very helpful comparison. Your report is, of course, detailed, helpful and amusing. And the photos are terrific! I think, barring family obligations/complications, I'd like to take another wildlife-focused trip in 2012. The question is...where...where? Your reports give me so many more possibilities.

Funny, a double-decker tour bus with recorded info just drove by my apartment.
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Old May 26th, 2011, 12:48 PM
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<i>"the # of vehicles around any tiger I saw in Kanha, Bandhavgarh, or Corbett was less than those at the Mara River in Sept of <orange>2011</orange>."</i>

I'm not able to predict the future. It should be Sept of <orange>2010.</orange>

Cateyes, you would be one to appreciate the big or little cats.

Leely, it appears you are a tourist destination! There are so many possibilities for your next trip. Another location in Africa is always an option as well.
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Old May 26th, 2011, 04:32 PM
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Lynn- the photographs are marvelous. An amazing number of tiger sightings, yes, but you seem to have caught the spirit of the Indian wilderness, and I would go so far as to say the real spirit of the country in both your wildlife and non-wildlife pictures. Loved the langurs in a row, the late morning (the less white) Taj photo, and the treed leopard. How amazing is it that you saw that.
Perhaps I can persuade you to join me on a future Kaziranga trip - with you, I'm sure to be tripping not only over rhinos but tigers too
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Old May 26th, 2011, 04:50 PM
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What great photos Lynn, I'm sold. Now I have to go on an Indian Safari. I'll be in touch!!
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Old May 26th, 2011, 05:16 PM
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Amazing photographs... agree with Sangeeta. Infact you seem to have caught a spirit that sometimes even dislocated 'desis' like me dont see.

<<just as the Men in Blue had a whole roster of talented batters to win the World Cup.>>

Brought such a huge smile again reliving that moment. You understood the craziness that sweeps the nation and the Men in Blue tag really well!
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Old May 26th, 2011, 05:22 PM
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I'll meet you in Fargo in January.

Before &Beyond set up in India, I was considering the Sierra Club tiger/taj outing:

http://www.sierraclub.org/outings/na...re/12535a.aspx

Thanks for so many details. Anything you'd do differently?
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Old May 26th, 2011, 06:09 PM
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Oh - and I forgot to mention the tiger with the peacocks - that's an iconic photo, Lynn. You should think about letting some Indian operators use it in return for subsidized safaris I don't think I've ever seen a picture with the 2 symbols of Indian wildlife so beautifully juxtaposed.
Wow.
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Old May 27th, 2011, 11:31 PM
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Lynn,

Thanks for your awesome report ...... just had a look at the pics and WOW!!! You had your fair share of some amazing Tiger moments. Trying to see if I can quickly get away to Kanha before the rains begin. Keep you posted.

Glad you had a great trip!!! and I'm sure you'll be back soon ...... You need to put the Southern parks on your map too!

Glad you got to see the Men in Blue do their thing and win the World Cup!!! Still can't believe it!!!!! Awesome!!!

Regards,
Hari
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Old May 28th, 2011, 09:44 AM
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<b>Sangeeta,</b> I could definitely be persuaded on Kaziranga. Thanks for the nice comments! That shot of the peacocks and tiger, and the whole scene, was magical. I had the same reaction you did to the two iconic symbols. And that was on my first night on safari. I was hooked!

<b>Hari</b>, yes, amazing tiger moments. My Dhole and jackal moments were equally amazing. That's because Kanha is an amazing place with lots of surprises.</b>

<b>Christabir,</b> though I'd love to meet you I am going to pass on Fargo in January.

On my trip, the only thing I would change would be adding a few more days to each park, plus Kaziranga. Maybe also the bird sanctuary near Delhi and at least one park in Southern India. I'd also spend time in Rajasthan for cultural activities. All that would require doubling the trip to 6 weeks.

As to what I'd <i>change or comment on</i> for the Sierra Club Trip...

<green>Day 1: All participants should arrive at the Indira Gandhi International Airport today and transfer to our hotel in New Delhi. All meals on this day will be included. At night we will get aquainted over a welcome dinner and orientation.

<i>Depending on when your flight arrives, you might need to come in one day early unless the dinner is after 9 pm</i>

Day 2: Delhi, the national capital of India, is a veritable museum of Indo-Islamic and British-influenced architecture. We will tour the old city and its many mystical wonders. Overnight: Delhi.

<i>Good first day</i>

Day 3: After an early breakfast, we will head to the New Delhi railway station in time for the train to Sawai Madhopur, en route to Ranthambore National Park.

Day 4: Today we'll enjoy a full-day exploration of Ranthambore.

Day 5: In the morning we'll continue with a game drive at Ranthambore National Park, then take the train to Agra in the afternoon.

<i>My #1 rule in planning my first India trip was no 2-night stays in tiger parks. This is 2 nts. What will you do in the afternoon in Agra? Will you have time for a sunset photo session at the Taj Mahal?</i>

Day 6: We will spend the better part of the morning visiting and photographing the Taj Mahal. In the late afternoon, we'll transfer to the railway station for an overnight train ride to Umaria, our gateway to Bandavgarh National Park.
Good logistics. I thought mine were better at the taj from a
perspective of maximizing wildlife.

Day 7: We should arrive at our lodge in time for breakfast and the first of three successive mornings of game drives, at least one of which will be from the back of an elephant.

Days 8-9: We'll continue with game drives and other exploraitons within Bandavgarh National Park.

<i>My #2 rule in planning my first India trip was 4-night stays or longer. The first 3 nights in Bandhavgarh (5 drives) I did not see a tiger, not even from the elephant. No one saw a tiger in the Tala zone for 2.5 days. That was unusual, but anything can happen. On the 6th and final outing I had 6 sightings of 5 tigers, one from an elephant. If a tiger sighting is very important, I’d stay 4 nights.</i>

Day 10: After breakfast, we will take a bus or van to Khajuraho, an approximately six-hour drive through villages and countryside. Today should give us a good look at rural Indian life -- not to mention a greater appreciation of American roads! In the evening we will enjoy a Sound & Light show at Khajuraho.
Day 11: We will spend the day exploring the 22 surviving temples of Khajuraho, another World Heritage site.

<i>These erotic temples are a nice cultural aspect that my trip lacked and a place many visitors to India see. </i>

Day 12: We'll begin the morning with a visit to Raneh Fall by jeep. There we will be able to stretch our legs before our afternoon flight to Dehli. Later this afternoon, we'll transfer to the airport for a flight to Delhi, where we will overnight at a hotel near the airport.

<i>Nice to see a waterfall on your transfer day.</i>


Day 13: Early this morning we'll fly to Gauhati, in the state of Assam. From here we'll have a long but interesting drive (about five hours) to Kaziranga National Park
Days 14-16: We'll continue our exploration of Kaziranga National Park.
Day 17: After one last look around, we'll depart Kaziranga en route to Gauhati. From there, we'll catch an afternoon flight back to Delhi. At our farewell dinner, we'll recap the trip and say goodbye to anyone returning home late this evening or early the next day. You are free to fly home late today or sometime tomorrow.

<i>A fantastic ending to the trip and a park I would have added to my own trip if time and $ allowed.

The time of year is good. FYI, Bandhavgarh began closing Wed afternoons starting April 1, 2011. Don’t know the exact days you’d be in Bandhavgarh. My solo trip was about 2 days longer for just a little more than the cost of this 16-participant trip. If there is a single supplement for this group trip, the cost difference narrows.</i>
</green>
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Old May 28th, 2011, 10:58 AM
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Forgo Fargo?!
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Old May 28th, 2011, 01:35 PM
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Hi atravelynn,

Glad you had a great experience in india! Haven't had a chance to read your whole trip report yet or look at the photos (though I'm looking forward to doing so!!), but I just wanted to chime in and say how much I agree with your initial post in terms of how an Indian safari might compare with an African one. Also, I fully agree about the forest rest houses in Corbett being a great base (rustic, though, for those who care about such things), and an opportunity to meet Indian tourists. We did our India trip before we ever went to Africa, so I was thinking the other way around and didn't find the Indian experience frustrating at all... but we also benefited from great guiding and trip planning by Wild World India, and we ended up not having to share our tiger sightings with a bunch of other vehicles. We were very lucky, I know.

Anyway, thanks for posting this -- a great service to wildlife lovers who are considering this kind of trip!
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Old May 31st, 2011, 04:35 AM
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What a great report atravelynn! And I so enjoyed all your photographs. What camera do you use? Favorite lenses for safari? (sorry for such a basic question, but curious, as your photos were lovely)

So now that we are starting to think about our second African safari...this tiger safari pops up.
sigh....

Thank you so much for sharing all of this with us.
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Old Jun 1st, 2011, 08:21 PM
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Forgo Fargo, Funny!

I used Sony HX1 (20x zoom) and I liked the extra-anti-blur button when on the elephant because there was almost always some movement. Most shots were with Panasonic FZ40 (24x zoom).

Tiny Dancer, something is always popping up for me too that catches my attention and my wandering spirit.

MyDogKyle, your good experience with Wild World India helped me decide to use them.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2011, 03:59 AM
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Hi, what amazing photos! I'm probably being thick or have missed something in your report but when you refer to Tiger Show what do you mean?
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