Tanzanian Safari - Trip Report
Sep 19th, 2006, 08:12 AM
#21
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Oops. Correction! I believe Gibbs Farm <b><i>is</i></b> a working coffee plantation. I said <i>was</i> in my last post.
Moremiles -- you're on to something. I think we women are well suited to safaris!!!
Moremiles -- you're on to something. I think we women are well suited to safaris!!!
Sep 19th, 2006, 08:49 AM
#22
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Thanks for your beautiful pictures. I loved the dik-dik, the Tarangire twilight landscapes, the aerials, the baby lions and all others. Had the topi just rolled in the dust? For that kind of situation you need to bring a grooming set.
And keep wandering off. It’s a good way to find interesting things.
And keep wandering off. It’s a good way to find interesting things.
Sep 19th, 2006, 12:48 PM
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nevermind,
There are worse places to get lost than Gibb's.
I can be blase about some of the hooved species, as you mentioned, but I never get tired of the dik dik (no double entendre there, really). Those tiny antelope just amaze me and the babies are even tinier.
Great photos. The aerial near Manyara was clever and the marabou stork shot had brilliant colors. How lucky to see the lion cubs. Plus you had good views of many other species.
Your slide show can serve as a Swahili picture book for those practice the language before their trip. It can also serve as a reminder for you not to forget the names.
I noticed early on in your report you claimed it was the best trip of your life. So many of us are hooked in days or even hours.
Ngorongoro Crater is up next.
There are worse places to get lost than Gibb's.
I can be blase about some of the hooved species, as you mentioned, but I never get tired of the dik dik (no double entendre there, really). Those tiny antelope just amaze me and the babies are even tinier.
Great photos. The aerial near Manyara was clever and the marabou stork shot had brilliant colors. How lucky to see the lion cubs. Plus you had good views of many other species.
Your slide show can serve as a Swahili picture book for those practice the language before their trip. It can also serve as a reminder for you not to forget the names.
I noticed early on in your report you claimed it was the best trip of your life. So many of us are hooked in days or even hours.
Ngorongoro Crater is up next.
Sep 19th, 2006, 07:35 PM
#27
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Day 7 - Ngorongoro Crater (which means "big hole" in Maasai)
What a day this was. We had an early breakfast, left the lodge at 7:30 a.m. and made our way down a dusty, rocky, windy, pot-holed, precipitous, washboarded road into the crater. I was so excited to be going into the crater that I didn’t really mind the jolting ride. I’m becoming a seasoned safarier, safarite, or whatever you call a person who goes on safari.
As we drove into the crater, our driver told us more of the Tanzanian customs. He said that just as bride prices are going out of style, marriages don't tend to be arranged any longer either. Now when a man and woman want to marry, they tell their parents. The parents may then hire an investigator to be sure the object of their child's affection is suitable (hard working, no genetic problems, no trouble with the law). Once the union is accepted, the marriage often takes place in a church, and great celebration occurs in the families' homes. It sounds a bit like our ways!
Godson also told us that his youngest son (a 14 year old) is actually a Maasai boy who had approached him several years ago, wanting to go to school. Godson checked with his wife and children, as well as the boy's parents. Once everyone agreed, Godson adopted the boy and is sponsoring his education. The boy visits his parents in the Ngorongoro region, but lives with Godson's family. As Godson tells the story, the boy had saved up money for school. He paid for his first year, thinking that the amount would ensure his continuing education. The young man was quite disappointed to discover that he must pay each year, which is when he asked Godson to sponsor him. I find this interesting, and am a little embarrassed about how we take education for granted in our country. If fact, some kids seem to go to great lengths to avoid the work involved in gaining a good education.
Once we got into the crater we saw all sorts of animals, including a golden jackal, hippos, zebras, hyenas, warthogs, elephants, rabbits, lions, gazelle, wildebeest, and monkeys. We also saw many birds, including grey heron, flamingo, Kori bustards, black-bellied bustards, ostriches, and black kites. We also saw a rhino from a great distance – so great that I don’t really count it, as I wasn’t totally convinced that it really was a rhino.
During the drive we noticed vehicles up on a hillside, and asked our driver about them. He told us that there are rangers that observe what is going on in the crater and that one of their daily duties is to monitor and track the rhinos. Each day they log where the rhinos have been and what their activities were. They do, indeed, take the obligation to save the rhinos very seriously.
The big excitement of the day was provided by a large male lion who decided to lie down in the middle of the dirt track we used as a road. He was tired and wounded. Our driver said he'd probably battled with other males during the night and had obviously lost the battle, as he was not with a pride and had bleeding wounds. I felt sorry for him, as he was such an item of interest, with safari vehicles gathered around him like vultures. It certainly wasn’t his most dignified moment, perhaps it wasn’t ours either, as we gawked and stared. However, he seemed completely disinterested in our vehicles and cameras. We spent quite a bit of time watching him, then drove on to the bathrooms, which were about 100 feet away. Needless to say, we were watchful when getting out of the vehicles to use the toilets. It is so easy to get careless and not respect the fact that these animals can be dangerous. In fact, we saw several people being pretty casual and straying quite a distance from their vehicles as they stretched their legs. This time I was careful not to wander…
Later on, we were surprised to find that a wonderful bush lunch had been set up for us in the crater in a thicket of trees. This was such an unexpected treat. We had barbequed chicken, pork, and beef along with an assortment of side dishes and drinks, and entertainment was provided by the antics of monkeys. What a great way to end a game drive – even if we didn’t get close to any rhinos!
On the way out of the crater I took a video, as I honestly think that no one will believe how rutted and rough the road out was without proof!! These roads aren’t for the faint of heart.
That night we watched a full moon rise over the Ngorongoro. It was so beautiful. The pictures I took don't do it justice – not even close.
Tomorrow we have another big day ahead of us. Because of overbooking, our reservations have been switched around. We won't be able to follow the itinerary that had been originally set up and will need to travel all the way to Kirawira. It will be a long trip, but I am learning that flexibility is an important part of enjoying a safari.
I can’t believe how lucky I am to be having this adventure!!!!
What a day this was. We had an early breakfast, left the lodge at 7:30 a.m. and made our way down a dusty, rocky, windy, pot-holed, precipitous, washboarded road into the crater. I was so excited to be going into the crater that I didn’t really mind the jolting ride. I’m becoming a seasoned safarier, safarite, or whatever you call a person who goes on safari.
As we drove into the crater, our driver told us more of the Tanzanian customs. He said that just as bride prices are going out of style, marriages don't tend to be arranged any longer either. Now when a man and woman want to marry, they tell their parents. The parents may then hire an investigator to be sure the object of their child's affection is suitable (hard working, no genetic problems, no trouble with the law). Once the union is accepted, the marriage often takes place in a church, and great celebration occurs in the families' homes. It sounds a bit like our ways!
Godson also told us that his youngest son (a 14 year old) is actually a Maasai boy who had approached him several years ago, wanting to go to school. Godson checked with his wife and children, as well as the boy's parents. Once everyone agreed, Godson adopted the boy and is sponsoring his education. The boy visits his parents in the Ngorongoro region, but lives with Godson's family. As Godson tells the story, the boy had saved up money for school. He paid for his first year, thinking that the amount would ensure his continuing education. The young man was quite disappointed to discover that he must pay each year, which is when he asked Godson to sponsor him. I find this interesting, and am a little embarrassed about how we take education for granted in our country. If fact, some kids seem to go to great lengths to avoid the work involved in gaining a good education.
Once we got into the crater we saw all sorts of animals, including a golden jackal, hippos, zebras, hyenas, warthogs, elephants, rabbits, lions, gazelle, wildebeest, and monkeys. We also saw many birds, including grey heron, flamingo, Kori bustards, black-bellied bustards, ostriches, and black kites. We also saw a rhino from a great distance – so great that I don’t really count it, as I wasn’t totally convinced that it really was a rhino.
During the drive we noticed vehicles up on a hillside, and asked our driver about them. He told us that there are rangers that observe what is going on in the crater and that one of their daily duties is to monitor and track the rhinos. Each day they log where the rhinos have been and what their activities were. They do, indeed, take the obligation to save the rhinos very seriously.
The big excitement of the day was provided by a large male lion who decided to lie down in the middle of the dirt track we used as a road. He was tired and wounded. Our driver said he'd probably battled with other males during the night and had obviously lost the battle, as he was not with a pride and had bleeding wounds. I felt sorry for him, as he was such an item of interest, with safari vehicles gathered around him like vultures. It certainly wasn’t his most dignified moment, perhaps it wasn’t ours either, as we gawked and stared. However, he seemed completely disinterested in our vehicles and cameras. We spent quite a bit of time watching him, then drove on to the bathrooms, which were about 100 feet away. Needless to say, we were watchful when getting out of the vehicles to use the toilets. It is so easy to get careless and not respect the fact that these animals can be dangerous. In fact, we saw several people being pretty casual and straying quite a distance from their vehicles as they stretched their legs. This time I was careful not to wander…
Later on, we were surprised to find that a wonderful bush lunch had been set up for us in the crater in a thicket of trees. This was such an unexpected treat. We had barbequed chicken, pork, and beef along with an assortment of side dishes and drinks, and entertainment was provided by the antics of monkeys. What a great way to end a game drive – even if we didn’t get close to any rhinos!
On the way out of the crater I took a video, as I honestly think that no one will believe how rutted and rough the road out was without proof!! These roads aren’t for the faint of heart.
That night we watched a full moon rise over the Ngorongoro. It was so beautiful. The pictures I took don't do it justice – not even close.
Tomorrow we have another big day ahead of us. Because of overbooking, our reservations have been switched around. We won't be able to follow the itinerary that had been originally set up and will need to travel all the way to Kirawira. It will be a long trip, but I am learning that flexibility is an important part of enjoying a safari.
I can’t believe how lucky I am to be having this adventure!!!!
Sep 20th, 2006, 05:49 AM
#28
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Day 8 -- Today is my husband’s birthday. We are on the road -- the long, dusty, bumpy, washboarded, potholed, dusty, rutted, uneven, dusty, long road -- to Kirawira...
We breakfasted, and left the Ngorongoro Crater about 7:30 a.m. I had thought these early mornings would be difficult, but found that - for once - jet lag was working for me, or maybe it is just the adrenaline of adventure coursing through my body. I don't really have a problem with 7:30, it's just being up, dressed, packed, breakfasted, and ready to leave that I had worried about. It seems impossible to believe that just a couple of short years ago I was accustomed to arising before 5 and was always at work by 7. I love being retired!! Anyway, back to the day...
This morning we visited a Maasai village. The Maasai are nomadic people, whose entire life revolves around their cattle. No one is allowed to reside in the parks of Tanzania, but the Ngorongoro area has been designated a conservation area to accommodate the Maasai, who are permitted to live in the region. The area is dotted with small villages, and Maasai are to be seen, wrapped in their blue and red garb, just about everywhere you go.
The people greeted us with some dancing and singing, then we were adopted by a guide who showed us around the village. Our guide was named Nario (or Nanario?) he wrote his name down for us, but it was difficult to read as he wrote it on the baggie I had my camera enclosed in. He took us into his boma, which is a small, half round hut built of twigs, grass, dung, and anything else they could find such as cardboard and pieces of plastic. It really reminded me of the way a bird builds its nest, using anything available. The hut was built with a low, convoluted entrance that turned back on itself. This design was to keep out the wind and dust out of the dwelling. The inside was small, very dark, and smoky. My husband stayed inside, but I came back out as I was afraid that I wouldn't be able to get up if I sat down, which would be necessary as the structure is so low that one can't stand up in it. The inside had a warming fire and was partitioned off into sleeping quarters for boys, girls, and parents.
While I waited for my husband and Nario to come back out, I was an object of great interest. A number of Maasai came up to me, obviously trying to make conversation, but I don't speak Maasai or Swahili, and none of them spoke English. Finally one young boy indicated for me to stay where I was, and took off. A couple of minutes later he came back with a friend in tow: a friend who spoke some English and could translate. They wanted to know who I was and where I was from. Once we had those details ironed out, we just stood around smiling and nodding at one another. Soon Randy and Nario came back out and Nario took us just outside the kraal to the small village school. The school had no roof and was simply a stick and grass wall wrapped around to form a little room. Inside were about 25 or 30 very young children, a male teacher and a female assistant. They had an old, holey blackboard, and the children were reciting their lessons, being led by one of the older children. It appeared that they were working on the alphabet. Some things are the same the world over. That being said, I don't think we should ever again complain about overcrowded classrooms or lack of supplies!!! Well, maybe that is a bit harsh. There is nothing wrong with wanting the best for our students, but this certainly helps put things in perspective. It certainly is an example of making the best of what you have.
When Nario found out I had been a teacher, he wanted my e-mail address, as he said he has many questions. How in the world he thinks he'll e-mail me is beyond my comprehension, since the village doesn’t even have running water or electricity, but Godson said he may be able to get up to one of the lodges and that they are pretty generous with allowing the Maasai to use their facilities for such purposes. Nario is obviously somewhat educated, and he speaks good English. I hope that he finds a way to contact me, as I would like to try to do something to help.
I haven't mentioned yet how windy and dusty it was at the village. By the end of the visit, we were filthy with dust and grime. My hair, clothes, eyes, and mouth were full of grit. Nario said that it is generally windy and dusty, and is difficult for them, but is part of their ways so they've learned how to deal with the elements. I can't imagine living under such conditions.
Before we left, we did buy some jewelry. I was a little surprised that Nario kind of took us under his wing, and bargained for us and we ended up paying almost nothing for these souvenirs. I know that the village depends on money like ours to buy drinking water and fulfill other needs that the people, so I feel a little guilty.
Our next stop was the Oldipai Gorge, where the Leakys did all their famous anthropological work. It wasn't too exciting, but was interesting just the same, because of all the importance attached to the site. I remember learning all about it when I was growing up. There is a small museum there, but no real artifacts - just models, copies, and pictures. We did learn that the gorge was named after sisal that grows in the area and is used by the Maasai to make twine.
We continued on to the Serengeti. The roads were terrible, but that is all part of the experience. By the time we got to the lodge where we were to eat lunch, my knee was swollen from the constant jolting and was difficult to walk on. Since we had no ice and no way of elevating it at the time, I just needed to accept it. Fortunately, not much was required in the way of mobility, so it was more of an inconvenience than disability. The place we lunched was to have been our lodging for the next two nights, but overbooking on the part of the lodge meant they didn't have rooms for us, so after lunch we pushed on to Kirawira. I haven’t been so dirty since I was a child, and I found that I didn’t care! I felt rugged and resilient. I felt like an adventurer. It had been a long, hot, uncomfortable day, but we were having fun!
Finally we arrived at Kirawira. I love it there, as my husband. It is a luxury tented camp in the Serengeti and is something directly from the movie "Out of Africa". Our tent was very large, had hardwood floors, electricity, beautiful furniture, a fairly luxurious bathroom, running hot & cold water, and a beautiful front porch that looked out over the Serengeti. The common areas (lounge and dining) were very large, permanent tents that were elegantly appointed with nice furniture. We even had real linens on the dining table and were served multi-course meals.
After showering, we went to the lounge area for drinks and dinner. After dinner, the entire kitchen and wait staff paraded out bearing a birthday cake for my husband and singing "Jambo, Jambo Bwana". I couldn't believe how beautifully they sang -- perfect harmony and even instrumental accompaniment with creamers and spoons. I managed to videotape it. The visual quality is very poor, as the lighting was low, but I did capture the audio, which was my goal. What an exciting birthday it was! We were escorted back to our tent and toasted his birthday with the wine that had delivered earlier.
It was a long, but fully satisfying day. I love Africa.
We breakfasted, and left the Ngorongoro Crater about 7:30 a.m. I had thought these early mornings would be difficult, but found that - for once - jet lag was working for me, or maybe it is just the adrenaline of adventure coursing through my body. I don't really have a problem with 7:30, it's just being up, dressed, packed, breakfasted, and ready to leave that I had worried about. It seems impossible to believe that just a couple of short years ago I was accustomed to arising before 5 and was always at work by 7. I love being retired!! Anyway, back to the day...
This morning we visited a Maasai village. The Maasai are nomadic people, whose entire life revolves around their cattle. No one is allowed to reside in the parks of Tanzania, but the Ngorongoro area has been designated a conservation area to accommodate the Maasai, who are permitted to live in the region. The area is dotted with small villages, and Maasai are to be seen, wrapped in their blue and red garb, just about everywhere you go.
The people greeted us with some dancing and singing, then we were adopted by a guide who showed us around the village. Our guide was named Nario (or Nanario?) he wrote his name down for us, but it was difficult to read as he wrote it on the baggie I had my camera enclosed in. He took us into his boma, which is a small, half round hut built of twigs, grass, dung, and anything else they could find such as cardboard and pieces of plastic. It really reminded me of the way a bird builds its nest, using anything available. The hut was built with a low, convoluted entrance that turned back on itself. This design was to keep out the wind and dust out of the dwelling. The inside was small, very dark, and smoky. My husband stayed inside, but I came back out as I was afraid that I wouldn't be able to get up if I sat down, which would be necessary as the structure is so low that one can't stand up in it. The inside had a warming fire and was partitioned off into sleeping quarters for boys, girls, and parents.
While I waited for my husband and Nario to come back out, I was an object of great interest. A number of Maasai came up to me, obviously trying to make conversation, but I don't speak Maasai or Swahili, and none of them spoke English. Finally one young boy indicated for me to stay where I was, and took off. A couple of minutes later he came back with a friend in tow: a friend who spoke some English and could translate. They wanted to know who I was and where I was from. Once we had those details ironed out, we just stood around smiling and nodding at one another. Soon Randy and Nario came back out and Nario took us just outside the kraal to the small village school. The school had no roof and was simply a stick and grass wall wrapped around to form a little room. Inside were about 25 or 30 very young children, a male teacher and a female assistant. They had an old, holey blackboard, and the children were reciting their lessons, being led by one of the older children. It appeared that they were working on the alphabet. Some things are the same the world over. That being said, I don't think we should ever again complain about overcrowded classrooms or lack of supplies!!! Well, maybe that is a bit harsh. There is nothing wrong with wanting the best for our students, but this certainly helps put things in perspective. It certainly is an example of making the best of what you have.
When Nario found out I had been a teacher, he wanted my e-mail address, as he said he has many questions. How in the world he thinks he'll e-mail me is beyond my comprehension, since the village doesn’t even have running water or electricity, but Godson said he may be able to get up to one of the lodges and that they are pretty generous with allowing the Maasai to use their facilities for such purposes. Nario is obviously somewhat educated, and he speaks good English. I hope that he finds a way to contact me, as I would like to try to do something to help.
I haven't mentioned yet how windy and dusty it was at the village. By the end of the visit, we were filthy with dust and grime. My hair, clothes, eyes, and mouth were full of grit. Nario said that it is generally windy and dusty, and is difficult for them, but is part of their ways so they've learned how to deal with the elements. I can't imagine living under such conditions.
Before we left, we did buy some jewelry. I was a little surprised that Nario kind of took us under his wing, and bargained for us and we ended up paying almost nothing for these souvenirs. I know that the village depends on money like ours to buy drinking water and fulfill other needs that the people, so I feel a little guilty.
Our next stop was the Oldipai Gorge, where the Leakys did all their famous anthropological work. It wasn't too exciting, but was interesting just the same, because of all the importance attached to the site. I remember learning all about it when I was growing up. There is a small museum there, but no real artifacts - just models, copies, and pictures. We did learn that the gorge was named after sisal that grows in the area and is used by the Maasai to make twine.
We continued on to the Serengeti. The roads were terrible, but that is all part of the experience. By the time we got to the lodge where we were to eat lunch, my knee was swollen from the constant jolting and was difficult to walk on. Since we had no ice and no way of elevating it at the time, I just needed to accept it. Fortunately, not much was required in the way of mobility, so it was more of an inconvenience than disability. The place we lunched was to have been our lodging for the next two nights, but overbooking on the part of the lodge meant they didn't have rooms for us, so after lunch we pushed on to Kirawira. I haven’t been so dirty since I was a child, and I found that I didn’t care! I felt rugged and resilient. I felt like an adventurer. It had been a long, hot, uncomfortable day, but we were having fun!
Finally we arrived at Kirawira. I love it there, as my husband. It is a luxury tented camp in the Serengeti and is something directly from the movie "Out of Africa". Our tent was very large, had hardwood floors, electricity, beautiful furniture, a fairly luxurious bathroom, running hot & cold water, and a beautiful front porch that looked out over the Serengeti. The common areas (lounge and dining) were very large, permanent tents that were elegantly appointed with nice furniture. We even had real linens on the dining table and were served multi-course meals.
After showering, we went to the lounge area for drinks and dinner. After dinner, the entire kitchen and wait staff paraded out bearing a birthday cake for my husband and singing "Jambo, Jambo Bwana". I couldn't believe how beautifully they sang -- perfect harmony and even instrumental accompaniment with creamers and spoons. I managed to videotape it. The visual quality is very poor, as the lighting was low, but I did capture the audio, which was my goal. What an exciting birthday it was! We were escorted back to our tent and toasted his birthday with the wine that had delivered earlier.
It was a long, but fully satisfying day. I love Africa.
Sep 20th, 2006, 08:47 AM
#29
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The crater was quite productive for you. I hope your male lion friend recovered. It is amazing the recuperative powers of wild animals.
The surprise lunch at the crater was a nice touch. Usually it is a box lunch.
I enjoyed your teacher insights.
The surprise lunch at the crater was a nice touch. Usually it is a box lunch.
I enjoyed your teacher insights.
Sep 20th, 2006, 09:33 AM
#30
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<font color="GREEN">We are on the road -- the long, dusty, bumpy, washboarded, potholed, dusty, rutted, uneven, dusty, long road </font>
So tell us what you think about the roads
By the way, I think that male lion will be toast pretty soon. If he's injured, older and kicked out of his pride, he is not going to make it more than a few months.
So tell us what you think about the roads
By the way, I think that male lion will be toast pretty soon. If he's injured, older and kicked out of his pride, he is not going to make it more than a few months.
Sep 20th, 2006, 12:15 PM
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"Nevermind", I am enjoying your posting so much. When I saw your photo of the lilac-breasted roller especially my heart leapt! I have dreamed for ages of seeing one of these birds - do they have a beautiful song? And the huts reminding you of bird's nests in their construction- I loved that! When you describe being dusty, tired, but full of fun and adventurous, my husband and I once felt that too after an arduous trek through rainforest. It really does make one feel like a child again, viewing the world with wonder and a sense of triumph over adventure. We just know that Africa will bring it all back again for us. Looking forward to hearing you continue.
Sep 20th, 2006, 05:54 PM
#34
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Carolines - the lilac-breasted rollers are stunning birds. It is my understanding, however, that they don't have a particularly lovely song!
Imagination - I don't know much about binoculars. I have a little pair that I took with me, I don't what their power is, but they aren't very fancy. They are just a little all purpose pair I usually keep in my car.
Leely, just moments before looking at Fodor's and seeing your most recent post, I showed my daughter the video I made of the parade of cooks, wait staff, manager, (and it seemed like every single person who works at Kirawira) singing and bringing out the cake. It actually brought tears to my eyes. There was such sincere good-will in these people's smiles and voices. My husband said the cake was, because of the circumstances, the best he's ever had!
I know that accommodations have been done over and over, but I've put together an album of the places we stayed. The pictures aren't particularly beguiling, but they do give a flavor of where we stayed. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...4at31&Ux=0
Imagination - I don't know much about binoculars. I have a little pair that I took with me, I don't what their power is, but they aren't very fancy. They are just a little all purpose pair I usually keep in my car.
Leely, just moments before looking at Fodor's and seeing your most recent post, I showed my daughter the video I made of the parade of cooks, wait staff, manager, (and it seemed like every single person who works at Kirawira) singing and bringing out the cake. It actually brought tears to my eyes. There was such sincere good-will in these people's smiles and voices. My husband said the cake was, because of the circumstances, the best he's ever had!
I know that accommodations have been done over and over, but I've put together an album of the places we stayed. The pictures aren't particularly beguiling, but they do give a flavor of where we stayed. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...4at31&Ux=0
Sep 20th, 2006, 08:44 PM
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We are still researching for a trip October 2007. Your trip sounds just like what we want. What company did you use? What size group were you with? How many days did you set aside for the whole trip--? Very nice info on Fodors. Did you like the time of year you went May? Very nice trip. Please email us at [email protected] you wishe to elaborate more. Thank you ;[email protected]
Fodors.com > Travel Talk > Africa & the Middle East > Tanzanian Safari - Trip Report http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34870880
Fodors.com > Travel Talk > Africa & the Middle East > Tanzanian Safari - Trip Report http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34870880
Sep 21st, 2006, 07:50 AM
#36
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Day 9 -- Kirawira Camp
We were greeted, once again, by coffee being served to our room at 6:00 a.m. It sure is a delightful way to start the day. They brought little muffins along with the coffee, to tide us over until breakfast, since we're going on a game drive before breakfast.
We had an interesting, but uneventful drive this morning. We saw, among other creatures, jackals, vultures, lions, monkeys, baboons, hyenas, gazelle, impala, zebras, and wildebeest. We are becoming increasingly nonchalant about game sightings. That is not to say we have lost our enthusiasm. I think we are just beginning to understand that there are lots of animals in the Serengeti! You never know what you will see, which adds to the anticipation. We did come across a pride of lions (2 males and 3 females) that had a fairly fresh kill. They'd eaten their fill; the three females were stretched out in the sun and one of the males was lying off by himself, stretched out on his back, looking like a huge domesticated cat. The other male was jealously guarding an uneaten part of the kill (which appeared to be the haunch of some large animal, perhaps a wildebeest). It continues to amaze me how unfazed they all our by our presence.
We returned to camp and had a pleasant breakfast, followed by some leisure time. My husband and I, and two others, decided to travel to Lake Victoria. It seemed a shame to be so near and not visit one of the world's great lakes. We left a little after 2:00 p.m. It took us about an hour to get out of the Serengeti. Once we were out, we were greeted by a paved road. Hallelujah!! Again, we were struck by the poverty we encountered. Along the way we passed through several areas where we smelled a strong scent of marijuana. I was to learn later that drugs can be somewhat of a problem, even in this isolated corner of the world. We passed through a small town called Lamadi and were soon at the Lake. When we got out of the jeep, many children came up and were touching us and wanting to hold our hands. Our guide said that they are not particularly accustomed to people who look as we do, so they are very interested. One child kept pulling my fingers apart and stroking the skin on my hand. I imagine I looked very pale to her. A young man named Joseph spoke with us for a few minutes, then my husband and the others went out for a boat ride on the lake. I stayed behind, fearing that it might be somewhat dangerous for me to try to board the little boat in the choppy water because of my knee. I also realized I was taking somewhat of a risk staying behind, but the guide stayed back as well, so I was somewhat comforted.
While the others were gone, Joseph came over and talked to me at great length. He is really an interesting young man, about 20 years old, and very idealistic. His goal is to help this small village work their way out of the poverty that surrounds it. His English was quite good, and he was so proud of having gone to secondary school. He said that all courses in secondary school are taught in English, but that the actual speaking came with experience. He is really curious about the different accents that English speaking people have, and said that Swahili is the same. [Swahili is the unifying language of Tanzania. People speak their local tribal languages, but everyone learns Swahili and they communicate with people outside of their region with Swahili.] According to Joseph, Swahili can sound somewhat different depending on the region.
Anyway, Joseph's goal is to help bring education to the children of the village. He said family planning is a huge problem, but that the people just don't understand, so he's hoping that by educating the children, they will choose new ways for themselves. Drugs and alcohol also present problems and, as we witnessed, gambling also seemed to be a big time and money waster. He has a big job ahead of him.
Once the guys were back from the boat, we went on a walking tour of part of the village. I must admit to being a little concerned (meaning nervous, scared). I think we all were. I was just praying that we wouldn't be robbed, but I think we were viewed as bringing something good into the village and were treated well. The children were dressed in rags. Cattle waded in the lake, right where the women were fetching water which I'm sure was for household use. The catch of the day was all laid out on a table where the men were cleaning the fish. Some young men and boys were sitting around playing cards. Others were loitering -- I'm not sure what they were doing. The children followed us around town, clutching at us and playing with our clothes and skin. It was a dismal, depressing scene. I wish Joseph and his friends well. I would like to help, but don’t know how.
We returned to our lodge. Showers were the first item on the agenda. We were shaken by what we had seen, and feeling very fortunate to have the standard of living we do. We entered back into our world of the luxury tented camp, warm showers, multi-course dinners, clean clothes, and comfortable beds. It is a mistake to take all this for granted.
After dinner, we were once again escorted back to our tents for a good night sleep before leaving for another lodge in the morning.
We were greeted, once again, by coffee being served to our room at 6:00 a.m. It sure is a delightful way to start the day. They brought little muffins along with the coffee, to tide us over until breakfast, since we're going on a game drive before breakfast.
We had an interesting, but uneventful drive this morning. We saw, among other creatures, jackals, vultures, lions, monkeys, baboons, hyenas, gazelle, impala, zebras, and wildebeest. We are becoming increasingly nonchalant about game sightings. That is not to say we have lost our enthusiasm. I think we are just beginning to understand that there are lots of animals in the Serengeti! You never know what you will see, which adds to the anticipation. We did come across a pride of lions (2 males and 3 females) that had a fairly fresh kill. They'd eaten their fill; the three females were stretched out in the sun and one of the males was lying off by himself, stretched out on his back, looking like a huge domesticated cat. The other male was jealously guarding an uneaten part of the kill (which appeared to be the haunch of some large animal, perhaps a wildebeest). It continues to amaze me how unfazed they all our by our presence.
We returned to camp and had a pleasant breakfast, followed by some leisure time. My husband and I, and two others, decided to travel to Lake Victoria. It seemed a shame to be so near and not visit one of the world's great lakes. We left a little after 2:00 p.m. It took us about an hour to get out of the Serengeti. Once we were out, we were greeted by a paved road. Hallelujah!! Again, we were struck by the poverty we encountered. Along the way we passed through several areas where we smelled a strong scent of marijuana. I was to learn later that drugs can be somewhat of a problem, even in this isolated corner of the world. We passed through a small town called Lamadi and were soon at the Lake. When we got out of the jeep, many children came up and were touching us and wanting to hold our hands. Our guide said that they are not particularly accustomed to people who look as we do, so they are very interested. One child kept pulling my fingers apart and stroking the skin on my hand. I imagine I looked very pale to her. A young man named Joseph spoke with us for a few minutes, then my husband and the others went out for a boat ride on the lake. I stayed behind, fearing that it might be somewhat dangerous for me to try to board the little boat in the choppy water because of my knee. I also realized I was taking somewhat of a risk staying behind, but the guide stayed back as well, so I was somewhat comforted.
While the others were gone, Joseph came over and talked to me at great length. He is really an interesting young man, about 20 years old, and very idealistic. His goal is to help this small village work their way out of the poverty that surrounds it. His English was quite good, and he was so proud of having gone to secondary school. He said that all courses in secondary school are taught in English, but that the actual speaking came with experience. He is really curious about the different accents that English speaking people have, and said that Swahili is the same. [Swahili is the unifying language of Tanzania. People speak their local tribal languages, but everyone learns Swahili and they communicate with people outside of their region with Swahili.] According to Joseph, Swahili can sound somewhat different depending on the region.
Anyway, Joseph's goal is to help bring education to the children of the village. He said family planning is a huge problem, but that the people just don't understand, so he's hoping that by educating the children, they will choose new ways for themselves. Drugs and alcohol also present problems and, as we witnessed, gambling also seemed to be a big time and money waster. He has a big job ahead of him.
Once the guys were back from the boat, we went on a walking tour of part of the village. I must admit to being a little concerned (meaning nervous, scared). I think we all were. I was just praying that we wouldn't be robbed, but I think we were viewed as bringing something good into the village and were treated well. The children were dressed in rags. Cattle waded in the lake, right where the women were fetching water which I'm sure was for household use. The catch of the day was all laid out on a table where the men were cleaning the fish. Some young men and boys were sitting around playing cards. Others were loitering -- I'm not sure what they were doing. The children followed us around town, clutching at us and playing with our clothes and skin. It was a dismal, depressing scene. I wish Joseph and his friends well. I would like to help, but don’t know how.
We returned to our lodge. Showers were the first item on the agenda. We were shaken by what we had seen, and feeling very fortunate to have the standard of living we do. We entered back into our world of the luxury tented camp, warm showers, multi-course dinners, clean clothes, and comfortable beds. It is a mistake to take all this for granted.
After dinner, we were once again escorted back to our tents for a good night sleep before leaving for another lodge in the morning.
Sep 21st, 2006, 08:39 AM
#37
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Glad Joseph talked about FAMILY PLANNING. This is one of the biggest problems in impoverished areas. I see so many kids running around and while they are beautiful... jut too many that can't be cared for.
When I was in Varanasi, India, I met a womn working with rural women there. she was working on promoting family planning.
She told women, the pig (considered a FILTHY animal) has a litter of many kids, she can't care for the all well. A cow, (considered holy & clean) has one and takes care of it.
A simple example that she said carries a lot of weight.
Very sad to see that gambling has taken hold there. Rich or poor it can be horribly destructive
When I was in Varanasi, India, I met a womn working with rural women there. she was working on promoting family planning.
She told women, the pig (considered a FILTHY animal) has a litter of many kids, she can't care for the all well. A cow, (considered holy & clean) has one and takes care of it.
A simple example that she said carries a lot of weight.
Very sad to see that gambling has taken hold there. Rich or poor it can be horribly destructive
Sep 21st, 2006, 09:25 AM
#38
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nevermind,
I really like this installment....We (my husband and I) will be in the Lake Victoria region (Mwanza)in Jan 2008 with an NGO working at an orphanage. Husband is a higly skilled carpenter and will be building and training locals. What part of Lake Vic did you visit?
I am also looking into programs which support women's health and development. Your comments on the matter have encouraged me further...
I'd also like to take a moment (warning: bleeding-heart liberal at large...)to let you know there are ways you can help...in my research on safaris alone, I found that Green Footprints (among others) donates their monies and services to a wonderful non-profit. (if you go to greenfootprints.co.tz and click on "About Us" and they provide info and a link. I think the name of the org is Tanzania Children's Fund. Seems to me this is the easiest way to start researching LEGIT NGO's. (excellent research tip: Google the names of the orgs etc. in quotes and it will cut down your search to a few pages.) also use Google News...you never know... Do as much research as possible!
Another thing I read on LP thorntree that I thought was a good idea: the next time you travel, if possible, pack and extra bag/save some room for supplies to donate to an orphange (school supplies are highly valued...especially text/teaching books)Tanzania law now allows children in primary schools to attend school free of charge. Secondary schools are not free and, for the poorer, often requires a "sponsor". (Estimated cost for school in Mwanza: $7 for a uniform and $5/month for school.) This is highly motivating for the children as they're aware that if they don't do well in primary school, they will not be able to attent seconday school. Even these young children understand that education is the key.
And it doesn't have to be an orphanage...find a cause you can support...Family planning...business development...whatever sparks your passion.
Jumping off my soapbox...you can tell me to shut up now.
teri714
I really like this installment....We (my husband and I) will be in the Lake Victoria region (Mwanza)in Jan 2008 with an NGO working at an orphanage. Husband is a higly skilled carpenter and will be building and training locals. What part of Lake Vic did you visit?
I am also looking into programs which support women's health and development. Your comments on the matter have encouraged me further...
I'd also like to take a moment (warning: bleeding-heart liberal at large...)to let you know there are ways you can help...in my research on safaris alone, I found that Green Footprints (among others) donates their monies and services to a wonderful non-profit. (if you go to greenfootprints.co.tz and click on "About Us" and they provide info and a link. I think the name of the org is Tanzania Children's Fund. Seems to me this is the easiest way to start researching LEGIT NGO's. (excellent research tip: Google the names of the orgs etc. in quotes and it will cut down your search to a few pages.) also use Google News...you never know... Do as much research as possible!
Another thing I read on LP thorntree that I thought was a good idea: the next time you travel, if possible, pack and extra bag/save some room for supplies to donate to an orphange (school supplies are highly valued...especially text/teaching books)Tanzania law now allows children in primary schools to attend school free of charge. Secondary schools are not free and, for the poorer, often requires a "sponsor". (Estimated cost for school in Mwanza: $7 for a uniform and $5/month for school.) This is highly motivating for the children as they're aware that if they don't do well in primary school, they will not be able to attent seconday school. Even these young children understand that education is the key.
And it doesn't have to be an orphanage...find a cause you can support...Family planning...business development...whatever sparks your passion.
Jumping off my soapbox...you can tell me to shut up now.
teri714
Sep 21st, 2006, 11:43 AM
#39
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Ter714
Nothing wrong with some soapboxing
Over on the Asia board, some women who went to Cambodia had a wonderful guide who showed them the work she is doing for children around the Siem Reap area.
The guide's name is Ponheary Ly and they started a foundation in her name. The $$$ goes DIRECTLY to Ponheary and then DIRECTLY to the buying school supplies for kids.
<font color="GREEN">"most impoverished children do not have the approximately $12 a year it costs to procure a uniform, some shoes and their school supplies.
Our organization provides these "$12 bundles" so that the maximum number of children can attend primary school."</font>
I have felt better giving to this charity than I have to anything else in my life.
I often give to Doctors Without Borders. But any low budget, low to zero overhead charities I can find are also very appealing.
http://www.theplf.org/
Nothing wrong with some soapboxing
Over on the Asia board, some women who went to Cambodia had a wonderful guide who showed them the work she is doing for children around the Siem Reap area.
The guide's name is Ponheary Ly and they started a foundation in her name. The $$$ goes DIRECTLY to Ponheary and then DIRECTLY to the buying school supplies for kids.
<font color="GREEN">"most impoverished children do not have the approximately $12 a year it costs to procure a uniform, some shoes and their school supplies.
Our organization provides these "$12 bundles" so that the maximum number of children can attend primary school."</font>
I have felt better giving to this charity than I have to anything else in my life.
I often give to Doctors Without Borders. But any low budget, low to zero overhead charities I can find are also very appealing.
http://www.theplf.org/
Sep 21st, 2006, 12:06 PM
#40
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Nevermind,
It's your trip report so you can get on your soap box!
This comment "...uneventful drive this morning. We saw, among other creatures, jackals, vultures, lions, monkeys, baboons, hyenas, gazelle, impala, zebras, and wildebeest," shows what an amazing place the Serengeti is. You are right, these kinds of sightings are typical.
Your knee must have been ok since it was not a topic.
Carolines,
You should see lots of lilac breasted rollers, especially if you let your guide know. I find it remarkable that such a beautiful bird is so common.
Mutt,
October might mean the ideal itinerary is shifted a bit from nevermind's.
Here is an index of East Africa reports. Maybe you’ve already checked it out.
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34860283
It's your trip report so you can get on your soap box!
This comment "...uneventful drive this morning. We saw, among other creatures, jackals, vultures, lions, monkeys, baboons, hyenas, gazelle, impala, zebras, and wildebeest," shows what an amazing place the Serengeti is. You are right, these kinds of sightings are typical.
Your knee must have been ok since it was not a topic.
Carolines,
You should see lots of lilac breasted rollers, especially if you let your guide know. I find it remarkable that such a beautiful bird is so common.
Mutt,
October might mean the ideal itinerary is shifted a bit from nevermind's.
Here is an index of East Africa reports. Maybe you’ve already checked it out.
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34860283
