Day 3

After breakfast we cruised to Coco Island. This by far was to be the best snorkeling yet, although we were hounded relentlessly by the Coco Island tariff collectors. These guys actually were looking into our port windows at 6:30am looking for their take. I’m sure they go quite an eyeful. They also got an earful from our usually even tempered skipper who gave them a good dose of Creole what for. Don’t know what was said but they sure took off in a hurry. While we were on the Coco Island beach they approached, seemingly from nowhere, to try collecting once again, even though we had already paid them. We learned early on to get receipts from these guys b/c they will claim to not have been paid and threaten to call the harbor police who are also part of the overall shakedown.

This, I’m afraid was a recurring scenario thru out all the islands we visited. Unfortunately, most of the islands are now owned by outside private foreign parties who collect large tariffs to allow visitors on the islands or in the surrounding waters. This is above and beyond the mooring fees that the boats have to pay. Some of these fees are as high as 50.pp, always to be paid in euros or USD.

Love the Seychelles, but you really do feel sometimes like you’re being pirated every time you turn around.

We then went to Praslin where we hiked the Vallee de Mai, a valley under the UNESCO protection. This beautiful place is one of the few places where one can see coco de mer.

bat,
I thought that was a rather lady like way of putting it - no?

Day 4

Cruise to Grand Soeur. Those who could, had a BBQ on beach, did some hiking on the island and chilled on beach, so I’m told.
I woke up with a high fever and couldn’t even lift my head without being overcome by nausea. The crew was concerned about the island fever that was spreading throughout the region from Mauritius. Mike had visions of malaria b/c I hadn’t taken my malerone. They all seemed to have such grave diagnosis - think they were ready to bury me at sea. I, however, figured I probably ate something bad.

My fever did go down from whatever it was in the next day or 2, but the slightly off abdominal symptoms stayed with me throughout the rest of the trip. The only thing this affected was my appetite, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

Cruise to Curieuse for the night.

Day 5

Curieuse is probably one of the more famous marine national parks with incredible snorkeling. This island seems to be the poster child for most of the pictures you’ll see advertising tourism in the Seychelles – it’s that breathtakingly beautiful.

Although all the Seychelle islands have quite a few tortoise, Curieuse seems to have the most. It was quite fun to be able to swim and reach out to these giants. We also had lots of dolphin surrounding our boat at this location. Our German boat mate swears that he saw a great white shark that was at least 10’ long in these waters – We are awaiting confirmation via pictures from his underwater camera.

This island also has massive and pretty impressive kopje like rock formations on land and in the gorgeous turquoise and aqua waters which made for some great photo ops.

Anchor for the night in Anse Volbert, Praslin

Offtopic:
Sandi: thx for turning my attention to that tripreport, benn laughing ever since.

Day 6

Cousin Island
We were picked up at our boat in the very rough and turbulent waters by a crazed Rasta man and taken to the nature and wild bird sanctuary on Cousin Island. This bone jarring and body tossing ride was quite the adventure - my sunglasses actually got broken. Very wild and fun ride and the only way to get to Cousin Island.

Note: avoid this island if frail.

Once on the pristine island, we were horded into 2 groups and asked if we wanted the English or the French tour. We took the English. Interestingly, we were the only English as a first language people in the group of extremely pushy and impatient tourists.

These folks would shove and elbow anyone near them to get at the photo op. Kind of made me think of them showing their pictures back home to their Moms after practically beating some up to get themselves up in front - look at me Mom, aren’t I just one with nature and so serene at that.

Note: prearrange a private tour if possible.

That aside, the island is the home of many endangered and nearly extinct birds, lizards and plantings. It is a must see.

More later.

Sherry,
After reading all the interesting details, it seems as if the Seychelles was the most adventurous part of your trip. ;)

Sorry to hear you weren't feeling well for a while, but glad to know they didn't toss you overboard.

I was waiting for this part and am revisiting my trip thru the read. Though we were on land - that water thing isn't mine - so many places remembered.

I got some of my best photos on Cousin Island - the fairy terns, long tail tropic birds... especially the newborns. Even with no flash and old point-n-shoot 35mm, as clear as can be. A place where a hat is a good idea. The two group thing is usual and only a limited number of visitors to the island on any given day. Like you we took the English tour and surprisingly even the French and Italian visitors joined the English tour. Thankfully, we had an extremely pleasant group on our visit; the BBQ lunch was also pretty good.

... the humidity was as high as the temps - 95-degrees, 95-percent. Though we didn't feel near as uncomfortable as when in Bangkok or Siem Reap. The Ms. World Paegent was taking place on Mahe when we visited (we were on Praslin) and there were lots of very unhappy contestants having "bad hair days." No kiddin, duh!

Thanks.

Sandi,
We also got some incredible pics. of Cousins island and it's wildlife - it's a beautiful place and really too difficult to explain.

The heat:
It wasn't bad on the boat. Luckily, there usually was somewhat of a breeze. As soon as breakfast ended, we were in the water and would manage to stay there most of the day. Being land bound was entirely a different story - thanks again for your good advice to get a room with an a/c.

Day 7

After arriving in Victoria Harbor, we had breakfast, photographed each other, promised to stay in touch and departed. We then took a cab and were once again charged a much different price from our last 2 cab rides to and from the same location. The thing is, if you ask the cab driver to turn their meter on, they will actually most indignantly tell you to get out.

Note:
All the Europeans we spoke to were always charged at least half of what we were made to pay. The Europeans will smartly get out of the cab and look for someone else to ride with, btw. Bone up on your European sounding accent. We forgot to do our faux Italian bit that we usually do when traveling, as no one seems to have any qualms with the Italians – good food, wine and art - what's to hate. I think we got lulled into language laziness mostly b/c everyone here speaks perfect English even though Creole is their first language.

We arrived early enough in the day to the newly restored La Meridien Barbaros where we could enjoy ourselves and relax. Our room #215 was an ocean front room with beautiful views of the inlet and the good sized beach. The beach is protected and the waters are mostly calm with nice snorkeling. The service is excellent and the staff is always there with a smile. As like most hotels, the food is ok. If your not foodies like us, you won’t care. I was a little more aware and more appreciative of my surroundings this time, unlike our post Dubai 3 minute visit.

After hanging out on the beach most of the day, I finally had a real bath with real hot water and Hermes toiletries. Heaven surely has big fluffy white (clean) towels with terry robes and an overhead rain shower. I forgot to tell you that we ran out of shower water on the boat late on day 2 and didn’t get it back until day until early day 5. It seems that no one mentioned the water conserving while on a boat with a limited supply of water rule to our German friends. These well groomed folks would condition and shave etc. while the water was continuously running. We could have gotten a water refill sooner but it would have meant missing out on a day and a half of places not to be missed. We would dump bottled water over our heads after dipping in the ocean to wash the salt away. Bottled water, always good in a pinch.

As for towels on this type of boat excursion, you receive 1 bath, 1 face and 1 beach towel to be used for the duration of the boat trip. It’s really not so bad but it sure is nice to get back to fine linens.

So needless to say, taking my first bath was very ceremonial. This was followed by drinks on the balcony, room service and a long night’s sleep.

More later

I bet that shower felt great!

Sherry -

There are Italian specific enclaves in the Seychelles. Where if you're not, then you can't stay. Yes, for real! Don't know about other nationalities, but definitely pro-Italian.

We met French, Italian, Brits, Germans, and some others. One American couple the day we visited La Digue. Oh, and another American couple who were with us when we did the trip to Cousin; they were living Brussels.

Three pieces of terry - towels (if a washcloth and face cloth are considered towels) for your entire trip. WOW!

Guess that's what happens when you don't bring your washer-person with you (along with the valet and butler)!

Sandi,
Once we ran out of grooming implements (water) our entire staff quit and went to North Island >:-)

Sherry -

North Island - sure, when Bill Gates recognizes me as one of his long lost children... and can be separated from his $$$$.

NOT! Guess, I have to keep buying those lottery tickets.

Day 8

We enjoyed a fabulous and leisurely breakfast from la Meridien’s mammoth buffet set up on the waters edge. Our breakfast consisted of fresh squeezed to order juice, made to order eggs, waffles, crepes and huge assortments of fruits etc. We then hung out on the beach and snorkeled and saw some unusual and stunning fish and coral.

Later in the day we went up to the roof top Jacuzzi deck with drinks in hand. Somehow, no one ever seemed to realize that the views, breeze and privacy from this rooftop were the best on the property. We always had this perfect spot to ourselves.

After chilling most of the day and recharging, we went to the much talked about, Chez Plume restaurant. This is one the few recommended restaurants on the west side of Mahe. Unfortunately, we weren’t totally impressed with the food or service. On arrival, the owner most indignantly asked if we had reservations, we didn’t b/c we were told it wasn’t necessary. He then made a big show of seeing if he could squeeze us into the only ¼ full room. I almost could have felt bad for this for man putting on such an exhausting performance – well, not really. The wine list was virtually non existent; our entrées were overcooked, mushy and slimy – very nasty. Plus, there wasn’t a spec of vegetable to be seen. This is all fine and well except they were charging 5 star prices. I never mind sub par food if I’m paying accordingly.

Note:
The tour books and hotel staff raved about this place - usually not good to count on. I usually prefer recommendations from like minded people.

In defense of Seychellois people and their food, they really are having a problem with the bad fishing situation and the odd government agricultural restrictions. Also, it is very difficult and highly expensive for them to import liquors. The guys on the boat told us that the boxed wine (maybe 2 liter in size) cost them 58. usd. Because of this and the deteriorating economy, I was told on numerous occasions, that their once bountiful island known for quality food is no longer in existence. Add that to the fact that this is an island nation that needs to import most goods and you’ll note that this is a country that’s struggling to get by.

Everywhere we went we found people looking to buy euros and usd in exchange for rupees. Rupees were not accepted in most hotels and larger establishments and even the duty free shops and departure taxes at the airport.

Note:
Most places didn’t differentiate euros from usd when charging i.e. 10 euros or 10 usd. Smart Europeans exchange their euros to usd at home prior to arriving.

Interestingly, the Seychellois citizens are only allowed to take 300 rupees (that’s about 80. usd) out of the country. This adds to enabling the currency pirating further.
The citizens that we spoke to seem to feel that things will only get worse before they get better for not only the economy but also the well being of the citizens under the current government. We were told many horrible stories that would curl your toes about the under-lying governmental corruption and violence toward those who attempt to speak up. I will not go into any of these confirmed stories for fear of retribution to those involved. It would be all too easy to trace some of this stuff back to them. I will say though, that under the veneer of the beautiful smiles, these sweet people have suffered much from some serious oppression.

So should you visit these islands? By all means yes. The beauty of the mostly untouched and pristine lands is most definitely worth seeing. As with the Africans, conservation is high on the list of the Seychellois - you can easily find your own private beach or walk very far without seeing another person. The mostly Creole people are some of the most helpful, friendly and interesting people around. This is a place to really relax and get away from it all or indulge in the many water activities available. The snorkeling is phenomenal. So do check it out.

Sherry -

It's depressing to read about the political situation on the islands and the difficulty on the Seychellois. Sure wasn't like that when we visited (7-yrs ago). When we were there, only Rupees were accepted, though when the guy in the small grocery learned I was American he was tooooooo glad to exchange USD for Rupees at an outstanding rate in my favor.

As to the food, have to agree that there was nothing special to write home or tell about. With the exception of breakfasts which we found to be wonderful, the other meal we ate was dinner (if on a tour, lunch was included... or being so hot, who the heck could even thing mid-day meal). Dinners were sufficient to satisfy your need for nourishment. Not being a fish eater and then there was plenty of that being served... I stuck with salads. The veggies were just outstanding. Another reason, probably, that on this trip - Kenya, Tanzania and Seychelles - I lost almost 10-lbs. Or did I just sweat it off that last week in SEZ.

Unfortunately, there are too many places around the world with all sorts of problems, so it's tourism that keeps many of these countries afloat. The Seychelles are beautiful, the people are warm and welcoming. English, French (or is it Italian) and Seychellois is spoken everywhere... even the paper is in all three languages, as is the TV.

Do they still have only 1-TV channel? And we had a remote control... for those to lazy to turn it off. The TV channel that goes off the air at 9am, reminding folks they should be at work. Returns to air sometime mid-day.

The Seychelles are definitely a paradise, regardless the problems. Thanks for the update.

Hi Sherry:
Enjoyed the report, and your assessment of the Seychelles. BTW, I had not noticed your earlier query to me--plenty ladylike. I thought it was funny (although I am sure you did not find it so at the time).

Bat,
I was being facitious with the lady like comment and I knew you were just razzing me (:. I do have to remember those smileys, as I do have an odd sense of humor:-d
Shat is indeed a word I must continue to use when appropriate.

Sandi,
I do appreciate your concern about the Seychellois. Sometimes I hate mentioning stuff like that in my report as I'm afraid that no one wants to hear about it.

The 1st language btw is Creole, 2nd English taught later in elementary grades, 3rd is French which as you know is spiffed up Creole.

I also think I may have lost 10 lbs. I didn't check though as I thought I might jinx myself if i looked and would gain it back.
Thanks;
Sherry

sherry,

I too am saddened to hear your (discreet!) description about the situation in the Seychelles. How terrible for those who live there.

However, I'm glad you were able to have a good time. You sure didn't forget to pack your spirit of adventure.

Homeward bound;


The next morning, we flew to Nairobi.
We breezed easily thru customs and paid $10 USD to leave the airport for our 8 hr. layover – this subjective fee can be 20. pp or more. Also, due to the good advice from the Fodor’s veterans, we decided to not send our passports to the embassies to get our visas prior to our trip. This saved us 50. pp for the multi-destination portion of our trip b/c we were never asked to pay. As told, sometimes they check, sometimes not. We just seemed to luck out for the entire trip.

As prearranged, Origins picked us up to cart us around Nairobi. We were pleased to see Rosemary this time around, as we felt that we hadn’t tipped her enough previously b/c she waited the entire time on our last visit outside while we straightened up our Kenya Air dilemma. We asked if she could bring us to a nice souvenir shop where we didn’t have to barter. She brought us to Utamaduni on the outskirts of Nairobi. It was absolute heaven to be able to shop without someone breathing down our necks the entire time.

We found the prices for similar items that we had seen in Tanzania to be very reasonable. Some of the exquisitely hand crafted items prices were a bit high which is to be expected for better quality. After closing the place down, we were then brought to Carnivore to satisfy our predator ways. This place is extreme to say the least. It’s a fun and high spirited place where staff and diners alike get into the festivities.

We ended up being seated in the lovely outdoor patio area, after asking to be moved from a table of 12 constant smoking Japanese men. These guys were actually smoking while eating. Bite, puff, bite, puff – most direct way to a coronary. Anyhow, we ordered a nice bottle of Italian red and proceeded to be inundated with every sort of meat known to mankind. My stomach was still a little jiggy from my virus, so I could only eat a few little bits. This was fine with me, as I think you could go into some kind of Atkins shock at this place. I did try the croc. just to say I did, and found it to be the vilest thing I have ever eaten. It’s a cross between fishy fish and gamey chicken – very nasty. My DH was very happy and managed to have an enormous heap of bones on his plate. He was even happier that he was able to feed the local cats with our leftovers. If there are any kitties or strays around, they will find us. It’s nice to have surrogate animals while we’re away.

We then headed back to the airport and flew to Amsterdam where we had all intentions of stepping out for our next long layover of 8 hrs. Once we saw the snow outside and that it was 30 degrees out, we decided to stay put, as we had both been to Amsterdam many times previously. We would all too soon be getting a taste of New England. Amsterdam airport actually isn’t half bad if you have to be stuck there. We were content to sleep in that wonderful quiet lounge and eat noodle soup. Oh how I love noodle soup. Particularly after so much Creole food in the Seychelles on a bad belly (don’t eat green peppers or onions) and the meat at Carnivore. I still haven’t got my fill of noodle soup from my favorite local Vietnamese restaurant since getting home. They automatically ladle one large bowl of soup when I walk in - obsessive.

Boston and home:
Somehow, I didn’t know if I should be happy that I just had the absolute best trip of my lifetime or if I should be sad that it's all over. The jet lag this time hit us both really hard for some reason and I’m thankful that I didn’t schedule myself to work for a few days after.

Thank you all for helping me plan my trip and bearing with me and my constant ramblings. We’re not finished yet though, as I’m already strategizing for my next trip to AFRICA! Stay tuned for yet another installment very soon.

Asante sana!

Sherry -

This was wonderful.

I too enjoy the Carnivore. Certainly not the best food, but for the price and being such a funky kind of place, make a visit each time I'm in NBO. Considering most of the fare tastes like chicken, I'm happy. And, the outdoor patio is so delightful.

That long layover in AMS to BOS or JFK is a killer. Though of late, I notice they're getting those to BOS out early via Detroit then back to BOS... you still arrive earlier; however, wouldn't take this route in the winter. And for me, instead of flying back into JRK, I now opt for EWR. Hate coming in at EWR when I'm clear over on the opposite side of Manhattan (on the upper east side), but if it saves me 5 or 6-hrs, I'm all for it.

So, where to next?

Thanks Sandi.
Next trip - possibly Botswana. I've ordered a bunch of books to brush up.

I sure wish that was one of your areas of expertise. Perhaps you'll venture out. You did help me tremendously for this trip - appreciate it.

Question:
Do you have any idea how long it takes NW air to deposit miles into the FF account - mine don't seem to be there yet.
Merci;
Sherry

On to Botswana!

Sherry,

What an incredible journey (still can't believe you bailed on your malaria prophylaxis!!!). I have enjoyed your report immensely and do hope that you can get to Botswana or another destination in Africa soon.

The description of what croc tastes like is too accurate. I can almost feel it on my tongue now.

Thanks again!

Sherry -

Glad to have been of help. Glad to have joined you on the Seychelles portion, as this was a favorite of mine when we visited.

The East African countries of Kenya & Tanzania are more than sufficient to keep me out of trouble. I'll leave the Southern Africa destinations to Rocco and Julian. Though you have my thanks for your vote of confidence.

ooops, forgot about the NW miles. I've never paid much attention as to how long it takes for these to be posted, but I believe it's within 6-weeks. If you don't receive monthly online statements from NW (rather paper statements which they send only when there has been activity) you can always call them to check that your miles have been posted.

Thanks for hanging in there with me on this very long report.

FF:
Sandi I did call NW last night and found that my account had been partically updated - I just posted a thread asking who may do a better job than World Perks.
p.s. I didn't think you could be coerced to Southern Africa (: - too bad for us!

Sherry,
Thanks for a wonderful trip report. When will there be photos? ;)

Sherry:
Thanks for a wonderful report. So you are thinking about Botswana? What time of year?

Asante for your report, Sherry! Funny that you never had to pay for a Kenyan visa the first time around and only had to pay $10 for the transit one, subjective indeed. Good luck with Botswana!

Thanks for your kindness.

Photos:
We are awaiting permission from N. Geographic as they have first rights. They are particularly interested in publishing our tree climbing lions. Although our lions did use a chair lift esculator rather than climb, as it had been a long day.
They (NG) seem to be very excited and can't wait to show the lions (up in a tree of course)sharing a 5 course meal with linens, china and silverware. NG is frantically trying to find the attending hyena waiters to obtain written permission for full use photos - it would be embarrassing to them otherwise ;;) .

We're still editing our very humble and lackluster to anyone but us, 1300+ photos. btw

Bat:
Don't know about the timing for Botswana. Got lots of research to do.

Leely:
No maleria meds. is indeed a no no. Next time I know to do a trial rule before leaving.

Patty:
We flew into Wilson which may explain the reason for a lack of payment interest - just got stamped - no questions asked, also weren't made to pay Tanzanian exit tax - the Kenyan tax, I believe was included in our flight ticket. Don't ask don't tell.

When the editing is done, please post those photos. With National Geographic's permission of course. That's a hoot.

Sherry, you had me going on the National Geographic - I believ ed right up to the part about the hyenas...:-))

Here are the photos that go with Sherry's report - http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34817288

Sherry~Great trip report! I must have missed it when I got back from Zambia. What a great adventure! Thanks!
Dennis

ttt