Tanzania, Kenya & Rwanda Trip Report: Migration, Adventure & Gorillas
Jul 6th, 2006, 03:54 AM
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Marty-
Thanks for taking the time to write your report. Just two quick questions for ya'. Were you at Kichwa Tembo tented camp or Bateleur? What time were you done with the gorilla trek to the closer group? I'm trying to do some scheduling for a Rwanada trip and if possible would like to catch a 5pm flight out of Kigali after doing a trek in the am.
Thanks for sharing
Cruisinred
Thanks for taking the time to write your report. Just two quick questions for ya'. Were you at Kichwa Tembo tented camp or Bateleur? What time were you done with the gorilla trek to the closer group? I'm trying to do some scheduling for a Rwanada trip and if possible would like to catch a 5pm flight out of Kigali after doing a trek in the am.
Thanks for sharing
Cruisinred
Jul 6th, 2006, 08:42 AM
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cruisinred,
I saw both groups that Marty did back in October. On a Sunday, the Sabinyos had actually climbed over the wall, so they were just a few minutes walk from the car.
We were back at the Gorilla's Nest WELL before noon. This includes time buying my carved gorilla and getting our certificates. We had packed the night before, so we got our things and ate.
We drove back leisurely to Kigali, including severla photo stops and I still think we were at the Mille Collines before 3PM
So a 5PM flight is doable. I am sure you will be a bit less leisurely than we were.
I saw both groups that Marty did back in October. On a Sunday, the Sabinyos had actually climbed over the wall, so they were just a few minutes walk from the car.
We were back at the Gorilla's Nest WELL before noon. This includes time buying my carved gorilla and getting our certificates. We had packed the night before, so we got our things and ate.
We drove back leisurely to Kigali, including severla photo stops and I still think we were at the Mille Collines before 3PM
So a 5PM flight is doable. I am sure you will be a bit less leisurely than we were.
Jul 6th, 2006, 10:08 AM
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Marty,
Thank you SOOO much for posting, it sounds like an incredible trip - what sightings!
As per usual I have questions -
Was it just the food at Hotel Alhumbra that was better then Gorillas Nest do you think?
All things considered, if you had to chose to visit only one of the two Gorilla groups, which one would you chose and why?
I think I would LOVE to see that 'toddler' in the Amahoro group but I'm not very fit and am concerned I'll struggle to reach them. I know you say that the group only goes as fast as its slowest member,( which I just KNOW will be me!) BUT I really don't want to hold everyone up. I'm not overweight but am definately not what you would consider fit .... thoughts please.
Wayne, if you are reading, would you mind answering the same question please.
Thanks again,
Imelda
Thank you SOOO much for posting, it sounds like an incredible trip - what sightings!
As per usual I have questions -
Was it just the food at Hotel Alhumbra that was better then Gorillas Nest do you think?
All things considered, if you had to chose to visit only one of the two Gorilla groups, which one would you chose and why?
I think I would LOVE to see that 'toddler' in the Amahoro group but I'm not very fit and am concerned I'll struggle to reach them. I know you say that the group only goes as fast as its slowest member,( which I just KNOW will be me!) BUT I really don't want to hold everyone up. I'm not overweight but am definately not what you would consider fit .... thoughts please.
Wayne, if you are reading, would you mind answering the same question please.
Thanks again,
Imelda
Jul 6th, 2006, 12:17 PM
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From what I have read on this group and other emails, the Sabinyo group seems to be one of the consistently closer groups.
About 3/4ths of the time I hear someone mention the Amaharos they were within a 1/2 hour. BUT...
that other quarter of the time they seem VERY far. I have heard people talking about STRUGGLING for 2 hours before reaching them.
I think the best bet is when you go on your trek to get to the launching site EARLY. Be the first ones there and maybe your guide will be able to ask which group is closest and you can get that one.
About 3/4ths of the time I hear someone mention the Amaharos they were within a 1/2 hour. BUT...
that other quarter of the time they seem VERY far. I have heard people talking about STRUGGLING for 2 hours before reaching them.
I think the best bet is when you go on your trek to get to the launching site EARLY. Be the first ones there and maybe your guide will be able to ask which group is closest and you can get that one.
Jul 6th, 2006, 06:46 PM
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Thanks all for the nice comments. Now to try to answer the questions:
Wayne has hit it right on the head about timing. With the Sabyiyo group, we were back at the Gorilla's Nest by 11am. The second day we did the Amaharo group and that was a different story. We were not back until about 2:30--too late to get to Kigali for a 5pm flight.
As to which one to do? For me, the longer hike to Amaharo was a highlight. The forest is beautiful and we had great view into the Congo and of the volcanos. Plus the family was a hoot to visit. One of the females even grabbed some people, just for fun. If you're not fit, then I would say if at all possible, do it anyway. The group will wait for you. There's not too much up and down, just long. It was about 1.5 hours from the wall to the group. Of course their particular location might change from day to day. When we came up to the Sabyiyo group right after climbing the wall, I was disappointed. I wanted the experience of the forest which I got the next day.
Crusinred: We were in Kichwa Tembo, not the Bateleur camp. We spent quite enough money on the rest of the trip (ha ha).
Wayne has hit it right on the head about timing. With the Sabyiyo group, we were back at the Gorilla's Nest by 11am. The second day we did the Amaharo group and that was a different story. We were not back until about 2:30--too late to get to Kigali for a 5pm flight.
As to which one to do? For me, the longer hike to Amaharo was a highlight. The forest is beautiful and we had great view into the Congo and of the volcanos. Plus the family was a hoot to visit. One of the females even grabbed some people, just for fun. If you're not fit, then I would say if at all possible, do it anyway. The group will wait for you. There's not too much up and down, just long. It was about 1.5 hours from the wall to the group. Of course their particular location might change from day to day. When we came up to the Sabyiyo group right after climbing the wall, I was disappointed. I wanted the experience of the forest which I got the next day.
Crusinred: We were in Kichwa Tembo, not the Bateleur camp. We spent quite enough money on the rest of the trip (ha ha).
Jul 7th, 2006, 04:17 AM
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OnlyMeOirish
I saw the gorillas in 2003 and I was also very worried about the hiking. There was a woman in our group who hadn't been feeling well before the hike and we had to keep stopping to wait for her. I'm sure she felt bad, but about it, but it was actually a relief to have an excuse to stop! If I remember correctly I think I even thanked her! So don't think that you are the holding everyone else up...you're actually giving everyone the break they need but are afraid to admit it because they don't want to be the "slow one." Just remind yourself that it isn't a race and you'll still get your full hour with the gorillas.
At one point I was so tired of tripping over my own feet that I actually began to wonder if it was worth it. Well...needless to say it was worth every step!
Another benefit of going slowly is taking time to really enjoy the forest. Just being able stop and take it all in is very special. Climbing over the wall into the forest reminded me of when Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz landed and opened the door of her house to see the land of OZ. It was a magical moment.
So try not to worry, and just remember that if you are the "slow one" there are others in the group who are thanking you!
Lily
I saw the gorillas in 2003 and I was also very worried about the hiking. There was a woman in our group who hadn't been feeling well before the hike and we had to keep stopping to wait for her. I'm sure she felt bad, but about it, but it was actually a relief to have an excuse to stop! If I remember correctly I think I even thanked her! So don't think that you are the holding everyone else up...you're actually giving everyone the break they need but are afraid to admit it because they don't want to be the "slow one." Just remind yourself that it isn't a race and you'll still get your full hour with the gorillas.
At one point I was so tired of tripping over my own feet that I actually began to wonder if it was worth it. Well...needless to say it was worth every step!
Another benefit of going slowly is taking time to really enjoy the forest. Just being able stop and take it all in is very special. Climbing over the wall into the forest reminded me of when Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz landed and opened the door of her house to see the land of OZ. It was a magical moment.
So try not to worry, and just remember that if you are the "slow one" there are others in the group who are thanking you!
Lily
Jul 7th, 2006, 08:53 AM
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Hi Martync:
What a great report - thank you! I think we saw the same leopard in the same tree near the Seronera airstrip way back in February - makes me wonder...is it <b>real</b>???
Your pictures are great - and you promised to put up more...I've been checking....
The Cheetah with her 5 cubs is my favorite - really beautiful!
Re: getting to the gorrilas - what's "the wall"?
Thanks again, Martync!
Cyn
What a great report - thank you! I think we saw the same leopard in the same tree near the Seronera airstrip way back in February - makes me wonder...is it <b>real</b>???
Your pictures are great - and you promised to put up more...I've been checking....
The Cheetah with her 5 cubs is my favorite - really beautiful!
Re: getting to the gorrilas - what's "the wall"?
Thanks again, Martync!
Cyn
Jul 7th, 2006, 09:21 AM
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Cynstalker,
Sorry about the vague reference to the "wall."
The "wall" is a man made stone wall that separates the farmers' fields from the protected forest. The farmers are so desparate for more land that if the wall wasn't there they would just keep on clearing and planting into the protected areas. I believe Waynehazel may have some pics with the wall included in them. It's only about 3-4 feet tall and easy to climb over.
Lily
Sorry about the vague reference to the "wall."
The "wall" is a man made stone wall that separates the farmers' fields from the protected forest. The farmers are so desparate for more land that if the wall wasn't there they would just keep on clearing and planting into the protected areas. I believe Waynehazel may have some pics with the wall included in them. It's only about 3-4 feet tall and easy to climb over.
Lily
Jul 7th, 2006, 11:03 AM
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Jul 7th, 2006, 12:27 PM
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A wonderful report Bill!! Thankyou so much for writing this, it is full of great info and wonderful pictures. I 'saw' the cheetah mom and her cubs too - but there is a story to that, once I get to mara portion of my trip. I really enjoyed your photos as I did not get any photos of them.
Just as an aside though, when you mentioned the visa 'cards', I thought I should possibly throw in my 2 cents worth here - those cards may not be for a visa. We had our TZ visa, in our passport before leaving, but we ALSO had to fill out those cards, each and every time we entered or left TZ. (which seemed a lot of times). Even the first time when we entered we had fill them out and hand them in with our passport and our visa. They kept the card, someone matches them up later with your departure card is what I understood. I will turn that thought over to someone like Sandi with more expertise than me though - but I do believe you still need the form filled out that you had for your visa, as well as the card. I could be wrong though!
Just as an aside though, when you mentioned the visa 'cards', I thought I should possibly throw in my 2 cents worth here - those cards may not be for a visa. We had our TZ visa, in our passport before leaving, but we ALSO had to fill out those cards, each and every time we entered or left TZ. (which seemed a lot of times). Even the first time when we entered we had fill them out and hand them in with our passport and our visa. They kept the card, someone matches them up later with your departure card is what I understood. I will turn that thought over to someone like Sandi with more expertise than me though - but I do believe you still need the form filled out that you had for your visa, as well as the card. I could be wrong though!
Jul 7th, 2006, 01:29 PM
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We didn't need the visa application form on arrival in JRO either, just the landing card which BTW Precision Air didn't carry onboard so we just picked them up at the airport counter on arrival.
In Kenya, we needed both the visa application form and landing card. I saw a few people show up at the visa counter at NBO with only a landing card, and they were asked to come back when they'd completed the form.
Leaving Kenya, you fill out a departure card and this gets taken at the passport check before you head upstairs to the gates at NBO.
Leaving Tanzania, we were the only two passengers who appeared to be filling out our departure cards at JRO. It turned out that no one was manning the passport check after security and consequently we still have ours. They obviously don't keep very good track of those
In Kenya, we needed both the visa application form and landing card. I saw a few people show up at the visa counter at NBO with only a landing card, and they were asked to come back when they'd completed the form.
Leaving Kenya, you fill out a departure card and this gets taken at the passport check before you head upstairs to the gates at NBO.
Leaving Tanzania, we were the only two passengers who appeared to be filling out our departure cards at JRO. It turned out that no one was manning the passport check after security and consequently we still have ours. They obviously don't keep very good track of those
Jul 7th, 2006, 03:37 PM
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Patty,
I'm no expert, but I'm sure that many folks getting off the plane at JRO did not have visa applications but just got by with the arrival card handed out on the plane. It didn't seem to make one bit of difference. However, maybe the next day it did, so who knows.
When we left TZ at Namanga, we filled out a departure card and then at the Kenya side, they did accept our pre-filled out Kenya applications.
LyndaS: Who's Bill?
Imelda: With respect to the hiking: Can you do a 3 or 4 mile hike through the woods at home? You don't have to carry anything since the porter will carry your daypack. Also, the Sabyiyo group hike does not require too much up and down. Now maybe there's another group that would give you a glimpse of the forest but wouldn't be as long a hike. I would suggest that you begin to do some local hiking now. When are you going? You could start out with a 1 mile hike and work up. It's great exercise and fun also. We belong to a hiking club at home and hike every week with them. It really helps.
I'm no expert, but I'm sure that many folks getting off the plane at JRO did not have visa applications but just got by with the arrival card handed out on the plane. It didn't seem to make one bit of difference. However, maybe the next day it did, so who knows.
When we left TZ at Namanga, we filled out a departure card and then at the Kenya side, they did accept our pre-filled out Kenya applications.
LyndaS: Who's Bill?
Imelda: With respect to the hiking: Can you do a 3 or 4 mile hike through the woods at home? You don't have to carry anything since the porter will carry your daypack. Also, the Sabyiyo group hike does not require too much up and down. Now maybe there's another group that would give you a glimpse of the forest but wouldn't be as long a hike. I would suggest that you begin to do some local hiking now. When are you going? You could start out with a 1 mile hike and work up. It's great exercise and fun also. We belong to a hiking club at home and hike every week with them. It really helps.
Jul 7th, 2006, 08:11 PM
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Sorry Marty! I read your report on the bus this morning going into work, and then started Bill H's report after I finished yours. I posted my comment at lunch - I guess I was REALLY out to lunch! Sorry!!
Jul 8th, 2006, 07:22 AM
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Wayne, Thank you very much for your reply. What time do you suggest we be at the launching point?
Martyn, Thanks again for your comments. I think that if there's not too much 'up and down' as you put it, I should be OK - long I can do. And I think, like you, I would like to experience the forest. As for hiking here, I'm afraid forests are few and far between. I do enjoy going for walks through the woods though but they are small and it is a short walk (only about half an hour).
Lily - Thank you so much for your kind comments - you make me feel so much better. A couple of years ago some friends convinced me to climb a very well known mountain here in Ireland(Croagh Patrick - 2,500ft!!)with them. I struggled pretty badly (especially the last few hundred feet ar it was pretty vertical) and wanted to turn back because I didn't want to hold them up but they waited for me and encouraged me and although I felt bad for slowing them down I felt really good having achieved it.
I will definately be at the meeting point early and will ask about the distances of the groups and will decide from there. Thanks again Wayne, Martyn and Lily for all your help and advice. I'm sure, no matter which group we see, it will be memorable.
Thanks again,
Imelda
Martyn, Thanks again for your comments. I think that if there's not too much 'up and down' as you put it, I should be OK - long I can do. And I think, like you, I would like to experience the forest. As for hiking here, I'm afraid forests are few and far between. I do enjoy going for walks through the woods though but they are small and it is a short walk (only about half an hour).
Lily - Thank you so much for your kind comments - you make me feel so much better. A couple of years ago some friends convinced me to climb a very well known mountain here in Ireland(Croagh Patrick - 2,500ft!!)with them. I struggled pretty badly (especially the last few hundred feet ar it was pretty vertical) and wanted to turn back because I didn't want to hold them up but they waited for me and encouraged me and although I felt bad for slowing them down I felt really good having achieved it.
I will definately be at the meeting point early and will ask about the distances of the groups and will decide from there. Thanks again Wayne, Martyn and Lily for all your help and advice. I'm sure, no matter which group we see, it will be memorable.
Thanks again,
Imelda
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