Southern Mozambique / Maputo Info Request
 

Hi

We are doing a circle Southern Africa tour starting in July 2010. We begin in JNB and head initially towards Kruger. From there, I would like to cross into Mozambique staying south of Maputo for a day or so. My research is yielding little information. Specifically, I am wanting to know ..

1. What are the best border posts for a hassle free crossing in August?

2. Lodging options close to Kosi border on the beach/ no camping

3. Gas situation

We don't have a lot of time to spend in Mozambique on this trip and I'm just planning on doing a quick scouting trip for a subsequent trip next year.

Suggestions appreciated.

boudecca

My wife and I visited Maputo for 3 days after a Kruger visit in 2008. We took a bus from Malelane (South Africa) to Maputo. We crossed at the Lebambo/Ressano Garcia post just outside Komatipoort. I don't know much about the Kosi Bay crossing--I would think that one would have to swing south from Kruger and go through Swaziland, then east to get to it, right? Of course, I seem to remember reading that the road south from Maputo isn't very good either. Are you planning on driving yourself?

Hi Gritty,

We are planning on driving ourselves. How long did it take you at the gate? Then from the gate into Maputo? Did you think Maputo was worth the detour? Where did you stay?

candy

I don't remember the exact amounts of time it took--I would say it took us about 30 minutes to get from Malelane to the border post near Komatipoort, another 30 minutes to get through customs, and less than 2 hours from the border to Maputo.

We stayed at the Sundown Guest House. It was nice. My biggest complaint was the holes in the mosquito netting. We thought we could get away with leaving the screened windows open and using the mosquito netting, but they got in through both the window screens and the holes! The guest house isn't really near anything special (other than the American Embassy) but we just walked or took chapas when we wanted to get somewhere.

We stayed in Maputo for 3 days. Our rough plan was to stay in the city and make a day trip or two to Inhaca Island for some snorkeling. We never did make it out to the island. The city is interested for a day or two, but if it's the beach you're looking for, just stay on the island or Ponta de Ouro (sp?).

Hi boudecca - I live in Kosi Bay (lucky me!) and can offer the following info :

August is a quiet month as far as tourism goes - no public or school holidays, so that's good news - the borderposts should not be very busy.
To reach Maputo, the most convenient/direct borderpost from the Kruger Park is the one at Komatiepoort/Lebombo, as mentioned by Gritty. Maputo is a vibrant African city - and it depends on your reasons for wanting to visit there, whether it is worth the detour or not. It is best to explore with someone who knows the city, as it is apparently not that safe for unaccompanied tourists to wander about. I could put you in touch with some friends of ours that live there if you like.

Gas (petrol) stations are not plentiful in Moçambique. Available in Maputo, but not south of there ... Ponta do Ouro residents fill up in Manguzi/Kosi Bay.

If you are wanting the beach experience...Kosi Bay is the best place for that - miles and miles of undeveloped (read non-commercial paradise) beaches where you can be the only person on that beach... If you decide to exclude Maputo and rather visit Ponta do Ouro ( the southernmost resort in Moçambique ) which is half an hours' drive from where we live, then you would be well advised to travel through Swaziland ( which is beautiful ) and exit at the Golela borderpost and travel past Pongolpoort Dam to Kosi Bay ( our town's name is interchangeable on maps and is sometimes referred to as Manguzi ).
We would naturally like you to book with us (www.kosimoon.co.za or www.kosi-bay.com) but there are other places to stay in the area!

This could turn into a whole travel brochure ...!!! let me leave you now to visit our websites where you'll find most of the info you could want ... hopefully we'll hear from you again :-)

P.S.
The road south from Maputo is only 100km but could take up to three hours of bumpy 4x4-ing ...

Hi guys,

I crossed the Resanno Garcia border post a week ago, much to my regret. Everything went smoothly, till we were ready to go, and then we were held to ransom until we'd paid the required "service fees" - on top of the official fees (read "bribes").

When we arrived in the filthy city of Maputo at night, we were stopped by a posse of AK-47 wielding soldiers on a trumped up traffic offense, and we were told to accompany them. Who the heck knows what the bribe would have been. Fortunately a passing local drove up, started helling at the soldiers, forced them to return our licence, and told us to drive on. We were stopped four times by police in 200kms.

Unfortunately, situations like this are becoming so common place that there's likely to an incident one day.

If Mozambique doesn't appreciate their visitors, they shouldn't have them.

But if you really think it's worth putting up with their nonsense for a day or two, I'd suggest the Naamacha border post. At least it's a little more friendly and quieter, and cleaner.

Hmmm. Two posters looking for business that suggest no problems, and a third a recent visitor, with no apparent bias, suggesting problems. Who has the credibility?

I know mozguide operated on the Lonely Planet forum for quite some time and I don't remember anyone objecting to it. Is he selling anything on his website? I couldn't find anything for sale. I read his forum a little bit before my visit to Maputo.

FWIW--my wife and I wandered the streets of Maputo extensively for 3 days with no guide and had no problems. Did we feel uncomfortable at times? Yes. We definitely were stared at in places. Was it safe? I don't know. It was safe enough for us. I heard multiple warnings from South Africans before going there that were very similar to those expressed above. We also got some practical advice from an ex-pat we met on the bus ride to Maputo.

I liked Maputo and would go back again for a short visit, now that I know what to expect. That trip personally prepared me for future Africa and international trips that were sometimes far off the tourist track.

I didn't register but I assume, since it's a dot.com, mozguide is commercial. But if I'm over-suspicious, I'm sorry. The practical info is useful, to be sure, but I'd just take it with a grain of salt. Sounds like you've had very interesting trips. Clearly not for everyone, though. A nation in progress...

Thank you all for the great information/advice on the crossing.

Does anyone know if it is possible to hire an ocean worthy boat in Maputo for a day to do a private tour of Inhaca and Portuguese islands?

It is possible to charter a boat to get to Inhaca, but it's very expensive.

I can't remember if this has already been mentioned, but there are flights from Maputo to Inhaca as well. I recall the flights being much cheaper than a charter boat.