Solo mini-safari in Kenya for 2-3 nights - where to go?
Jan 14th, 2010, 07:18 PM
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Solo mini-safari in Kenya for 2-3 nights - where to go?
I'm going back to Africa after 20 years!!!! Yippee!!!!
Next month (February, 2010) I'm doing 2 weeks volunteering for a research project with Earthwatch Institute at Ol Pejeta Conservancy between Mt Kenya and the Aberdare Mountains. I have some free time before and after; my arrival and departure dates were determined by available frequent flyer seats.
I'd like to insert a side trip to another park at the beginning of my trip and some day trips from Nairobi at the end. Here's my schedule so far as I know it:
Thurs, 11 Feb - arrive Nairobi late evening
--- Insert side trip to ? here ---
Mon, 15 Feb - Transfer to Ol Pejeta (meet group either in Nairobi or Nanyuki)
Mon, 1 Mar - return to Fairview Nairobi
Tues and Weds, 2 & 3 Mar - day trips (Nairobi National Park, Giraffe Center, Sheldrick Foundation, etc)
Weds, 3 Mar - fly out of Nairobi very late evening
I have two options for the transfer to Ol Pejeta on the first Monday; I can get picked up at the Fairview Hotel in Nairobi or meet the Earthwatch group in Nanyuki. Which I choose I can depend on where I go for the side-trip.
So.....
Where to go? Masai Mara or Amboseli are two places that popped into my head. I'm guessing Samburu and Aberdare will be very like Ol Pejeta and therefore not the best choices. Am I right? Other suggestions? What do you experts think would be the best choice for a lone woman in terms of where to go and how to arrange it? I don't need to do it on the cheap cheap, but I also don't need or want to spend the money for ultra luxury.
Thanks for the help re: my other question re: cell phones - I look forward to more advise here.
Kathy
Next month (February, 2010) I'm doing 2 weeks volunteering for a research project with Earthwatch Institute at Ol Pejeta Conservancy between Mt Kenya and the Aberdare Mountains. I have some free time before and after; my arrival and departure dates were determined by available frequent flyer seats.
I'd like to insert a side trip to another park at the beginning of my trip and some day trips from Nairobi at the end. Here's my schedule so far as I know it:Thurs, 11 Feb - arrive Nairobi late evening
--- Insert side trip to ? here ---
Mon, 15 Feb - Transfer to Ol Pejeta (meet group either in Nairobi or Nanyuki)
Mon, 1 Mar - return to Fairview Nairobi
Tues and Weds, 2 & 3 Mar - day trips (Nairobi National Park, Giraffe Center, Sheldrick Foundation, etc)
Weds, 3 Mar - fly out of Nairobi very late evening
I have two options for the transfer to Ol Pejeta on the first Monday; I can get picked up at the Fairview Hotel in Nairobi or meet the Earthwatch group in Nanyuki. Which I choose I can depend on where I go for the side-trip.
So.....
Where to go? Masai Mara or Amboseli are two places that popped into my head. I'm guessing Samburu and Aberdare will be very like Ol Pejeta and therefore not the best choices. Am I right? Other suggestions? What do you experts think would be the best choice for a lone woman in terms of where to go and how to arrange it? I don't need to do it on the cheap cheap, but I also don't need or want to spend the money for ultra luxury.
Thanks for the help re: my other question re: cell phones - I look forward to more advise here.
Kathy
Jan 14th, 2010, 10:18 PM
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Hello Kathy.
I did the Earthwatch project September 2007 (one of four). Unless you are positive that you will never return to Africa, I would discourage a two/three day safari. The reason is that you will see all the big game on the EW project itself. And you will see it with people who will share your world view. Typical safaris mean you are with tons of tourists who all wind up at a watering hole at the same time.
I still communicate regularly with the other volunteers at Sweetwaters. Besides, 2 or 3 days will not provide you with a great deal of safari time. Nothing can match the opportunities for game viewing with EW. Instead, spend the time at Sheldricks near Nairobi at the end and have a short game trip if you feel the need after Sweetwaters--which I doubt.
There were a couple of people with cell phones but for me total immersion in Africa is the way to go--it is magical as you no doubt expect it to be.
If you want more detail, contact EW and tell them you want to speak with me (Hank Browne) and we can cover the fine points in detail.
My suggestion would be to meet at the Fairview, travel to Sweetwaters with the group to start bonding--you will not regret it.
I disagree about Samburu. We did another EW there and it was great. Being in contact with the locals was a special treat.
I did the Earthwatch project September 2007 (one of four). Unless you are positive that you will never return to Africa, I would discourage a two/three day safari. The reason is that you will see all the big game on the EW project itself. And you will see it with people who will share your world view. Typical safaris mean you are with tons of tourists who all wind up at a watering hole at the same time.
I still communicate regularly with the other volunteers at Sweetwaters. Besides, 2 or 3 days will not provide you with a great deal of safari time. Nothing can match the opportunities for game viewing with EW. Instead, spend the time at Sheldricks near Nairobi at the end and have a short game trip if you feel the need after Sweetwaters--which I doubt.
There were a couple of people with cell phones but for me total immersion in Africa is the way to go--it is magical as you no doubt expect it to be.
If you want more detail, contact EW and tell them you want to speak with me (Hank Browne) and we can cover the fine points in detail.
My suggestion would be to meet at the Fairview, travel to Sweetwaters with the group to start bonding--you will not regret it.
I disagree about Samburu. We did another EW there and it was great. Being in contact with the locals was a special treat.
Jan 15th, 2010, 06:53 AM
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Thanks, Hank... I have 2 friends who have done the Ol Pejeta/Sweetwaters Earthwatch trip twice; they raved about all aspects of it, and that's why that's the one I picked!
I appreciate your insights and understand what you're saying about the limitations on any safari I choose. HOWEVER, my airfare is booked, there was no way I could get there on a later date with a frequent flyer ticket. So, I have my 3 days and 3 nights before I head to Ol Pejeta and want to do something with it. Given that, I'm trying to figure out the best choices of where to go and what to do. From what I know and have read, spending 4 nights at the beginning and 2 at the end of my trip in Nairobi is way too much! My only reservation about doing Samburu on this trip is that it would too similar to Ol Pejeta versus other options.
Kathy
I appreciate your insights and understand what you're saying about the limitations on any safari I choose. HOWEVER, my airfare is booked, there was no way I could get there on a later date with a frequent flyer ticket. So, I have my 3 days and 3 nights before I head to Ol Pejeta and want to do something with it. Given that, I'm trying to figure out the best choices of where to go and what to do. From what I know and have read, spending 4 nights at the beginning and 2 at the end of my trip in Nairobi is way too much! My only reservation about doing Samburu on this trip is that it would too similar to Ol Pejeta versus other options.
Kathy
Jan 15th, 2010, 07:20 AM
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I wouldn't spend all that time in Nairobi and think that your 2 nights at the end is plenty.
Samburu and Aberdares are actually not that similar to Ol Pejeta. If anything I think it shares more similarities with the Mara being a mid-elevation (5000-6000 ft) plains/woodland landscape and offering very good game viewing of classic East African game. In contrast, Samburu is a low elevation, arid (though dominated by the Ewaso Nyiro river) environment which offers some northern/eastern species (you do start to see a few of these such as reticulated giraffe and beisa oryx on Ol Pejeta but Samburu has more). The Aberdares are high elevation (up to 11,000 ft) forest and again quite different from Ol Pejeta. You'll see forest species here such giant forest hog, colobus and Sykes monkeys and others. I think either would complement Ol Pejeta well and you could meet up in Nanyuki since you'll already be north of Nairobi. Samburu will be hot in Feb if that makes any difference.
I looked over your itinerary briefly and it also sounds like you may have a choice of going to Samburu or Nakuru on your free day with the group. Both will be very long day trips though (3 hours each way) and a few hours doesn't really do justice to Samburu.
Samburu and Aberdares are actually not that similar to Ol Pejeta. If anything I think it shares more similarities with the Mara being a mid-elevation (5000-6000 ft) plains/woodland landscape and offering very good game viewing of classic East African game. In contrast, Samburu is a low elevation, arid (though dominated by the Ewaso Nyiro river) environment which offers some northern/eastern species (you do start to see a few of these such as reticulated giraffe and beisa oryx on Ol Pejeta but Samburu has more). The Aberdares are high elevation (up to 11,000 ft) forest and again quite different from Ol Pejeta. You'll see forest species here such giant forest hog, colobus and Sykes monkeys and others. I think either would complement Ol Pejeta well and you could meet up in Nanyuki since you'll already be north of Nairobi. Samburu will be hot in Feb if that makes any difference.
I looked over your itinerary briefly and it also sounds like you may have a choice of going to Samburu or Nakuru on your free day with the group. Both will be very long day trips though (3 hours each way) and a few hours doesn't really do justice to Samburu.
Jan 15th, 2010, 08:31 AM
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I have some pics of Ol Pejeta, Abedares and Samburu if you'd like to take a look and see the differences.
Sweetwaters Reserve which is located on Ol Pejeta Conservancy http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...5%3A1772958767
Aberdares http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...05%3A957350556
A not very arid looking Samburu (might be the same when you go) starting with pic #25 http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...5%3A1027390614
Sweetwaters Reserve which is located on Ol Pejeta Conservancy http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...5%3A1772958767
Aberdares http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...05%3A957350556
A not very arid looking Samburu (might be the same when you go) starting with pic #25 http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...5%3A1027390614
Jan 15th, 2010, 12:38 PM
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Patty beat me to it. She's spot on.
My choices would be the Masai Mara or Samburu, both with great game offerings regardless time of year.
February is summer in East Africa, so expect warm/hot days and cool nights/mornings. However, Samburu will be hotter and maybe not that much cooler in night/mornings.
I'd fly up to Samburu... Larsen's Camp is a great choice unless you want to blow the budget and go with Elephant Watch Camp. On the return, there is scheduled flight service to Nairobi (to meet up with your group), but not to Nanyuki which would be way shorter and more convenient. No harm to ask though... one never knows when there's another solo traveler going your way!!!
Remember this is Africa, things can change by the minute. Or from Samburu you can check into a road transfer (3/hrs) direct to your site at Ol Pejeta or Nanyuki. Price should be in $400+/- range per vehicle.
My choices would be the Masai Mara or Samburu, both with great game offerings regardless time of year.
February is summer in East Africa, so expect warm/hot days and cool nights/mornings. However, Samburu will be hotter and maybe not that much cooler in night/mornings.
I'd fly up to Samburu... Larsen's Camp is a great choice unless you want to blow the budget and go with Elephant Watch Camp. On the return, there is scheduled flight service to Nairobi (to meet up with your group), but not to Nanyuki which would be way shorter and more convenient. No harm to ask though... one never knows when there's another solo traveler going your way!!!
Remember this is Africa, things can change by the minute. Or from Samburu you can check into a road transfer (3/hrs) direct to your site at Ol Pejeta or Nanyuki. Price should be in $400+/- range per vehicle.
Jan 15th, 2010, 02:54 PM
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If you have a chance to do a day trip with your EW group, I'd choose Nakuru over Samburu if those are the 2 choices, for these reasons:
1) Samburu should not be undertaken for just one day, as was mentioned above.
2) I'd include Samburu in your spare days at the end of the trip instead of a quick daytrip. As Sandi notes, there is the option of driving or flying.
3) Based on my experience, I saw more gerenuk (unique antelope) and predators in Samburu than the area around Ol Pejeta, plus the environment was different--more desertlike. I think Samburu would pair up nicely with your EW experience.
Up front I'd fly to the Mara.
Have a wonderful experience!
1) Samburu should not be undertaken for just one day, as was mentioned above.
2) I'd include Samburu in your spare days at the end of the trip instead of a quick daytrip. As Sandi notes, there is the option of driving or flying.
3) Based on my experience, I saw more gerenuk (unique antelope) and predators in Samburu than the area around Ol Pejeta, plus the environment was different--more desertlike. I think Samburu would pair up nicely with your EW experience.
Up front I'd fly to the Mara.
Have a wonderful experience!
Jan 16th, 2010, 07:50 AM
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Ol Pejeta has recently received 4 black rhino from the Czech Republic, as:
<i>"from the Dvur Králové Zoo in the Czech Republic to Ol Pejeta Conservancy.
The transfer is aimed at providing this rare species of rhino with the most favourable breeding conditions, in an attempt to pull the species back from the verge of extinction. It is thought that the climatic, dietary and security conditions at Ol Pejeta will provide them with higher chances of starting a population, in what is seen as the very last lifeline for the species. The transfer marks the beginning of the "Last Chance to Survive", a project by the joint efforts of the Dvur Králové Zoo, Fauna and Flora International, Back to Africa, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Kenya Wildlife Service and Ol Pejeta Conservancy."</i>
<i>"from the Dvur Králové Zoo in the Czech Republic to Ol Pejeta Conservancy.
The transfer is aimed at providing this rare species of rhino with the most favourable breeding conditions, in an attempt to pull the species back from the verge of extinction. It is thought that the climatic, dietary and security conditions at Ol Pejeta will provide them with higher chances of starting a population, in what is seen as the very last lifeline for the species. The transfer marks the beginning of the "Last Chance to Survive", a project by the joint efforts of the Dvur Králové Zoo, Fauna and Flora International, Back to Africa, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Kenya Wildlife Service and Ol Pejeta Conservancy."</i>
Jan 16th, 2010, 07:38 PM
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Okay, thanks everyone so far. I think I'm going to go to Masai Mara at the front end. The first time I was in Africa, I went to (and loved) both places -- but somehow, the Mara was even more magical for me. So... there are so many areas of the Mara and so many different places to stay. What are YOUR top favorites? I'm on a bit of a budget, but don't need to go super cheap. I'll know my price point when I hear it. Also, anybody know any tour operators who won't throw up at the thought of a single traveler? Or should I book direct with a camp?
Thanks,
Kathy
Also, anybody know any tour operators who won't throw up at the thought of a single traveler? Or should I book direct with a camp?Thanks,
Kathy
Jan 16th, 2010, 07:50 PM
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Eastern and Southern Safaris in NBO showed no signs of illness regarding a solo departure, whether for a just 3-hour NBO Nat Park tour and airport transfers or for a couple week safari.
Fav Mara place that still remains = Little Governor's
Where I'd like to stay if the budget was sufficiently liberal = Serian or Rekero
Good deal and location, though a larger lodge = Mara Serena
For Serena (don't know about others) direct has not seemed to offer savings.
Fav Mara place that still remains = Little Governor's
Where I'd like to stay if the budget was sufficiently liberal = Serian or Rekero
Good deal and location, though a larger lodge = Mara Serena
For Serena (don't know about others) direct has not seemed to offer savings.
Jan 17th, 2010, 05:25 AM
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Patty... sorry, they're "white" rhino! Had just been reading about some black ones, so my confusion... these transplants though are white.
Kathy - many outfitters in Kenya will do solo traveler to Masai Mara; very common. If you drive (5/hrs each way) to/from you'll have own guide/vehicle during your stay. If you fly (50min-1/hr) you'll share guide/vehicle with other guests. Though Serian Camp provides private guide per tent, if there rates are higher than Little Govs.
As the migration isn't in the Mara during February, where you stay isn't all that important. And prices for many camps/lodges during this time are at mid-season if they don't have a single-rate throughout the year. You'll have to inquire.
Kathy - many outfitters in Kenya will do solo traveler to Masai Mara; very common. If you drive (5/hrs each way) to/from you'll have own guide/vehicle during your stay. If you fly (50min-1/hr) you'll share guide/vehicle with other guests. Though Serian Camp provides private guide per tent, if there rates are higher than Little Govs.
As the migration isn't in the Mara during February, where you stay isn't all that important. And prices for many camps/lodges during this time are at mid-season if they don't have a single-rate throughout the year. You'll have to inquire.
Jan 17th, 2010, 09:55 AM
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Kathy, I have a few days I'm thinking of spending in the Mara at the end of a longer trip, so am very interested in what you end up doing. And I would love to read about your experience with Earthwatch when you return! Sounds like it will be great.
Jan 17th, 2010, 10:35 AM
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Oh, I'm getting excited!!!! Thanks, everyone, for your input so far.
Since I'm going in February, crossings/migration hot spots are not important; I'm wondering what are the best areas for seeing the most animals at this time of year? I also would prefer to be away from the mobs of vehicles around a single animal, even if it means I see a few less animals.
I've done some more research, and have been reading some good things about the Olare Orok Conservancy adjacent to Masai Mara. Anyone know anything about this area in general or about any of the camps there? Specifically, Kicheche Bush (AKA Olare Kicheche)or Offbeat Mara... or others in that price range? And what about Kicheche Mara; someone said it's a trek to see the crossings, but in Feb, that's no issue. One apparent advantage of the Kicheche properties is that they don't seem to charge a single supplement this time of year....
Thanks, this is a great group!
Thanks, everyone, for your input so far. Since I'm going in February, crossings/migration hot spots are not important; I'm wondering what are the best areas for seeing the most animals at this time of year? I also would prefer to be away from the mobs of vehicles around a single animal, even if it means I see a few less animals.
I've done some more research, and have been reading some good things about the Olare Orok Conservancy adjacent to Masai Mara. Anyone know anything about this area in general or about any of the camps there? Specifically, Kicheche Bush (AKA Olare Kicheche)or Offbeat Mara... or others in that price range? And what about Kicheche Mara; someone said it's a trek to see the crossings, but in Feb, that's no issue. One apparent advantage of the Kicheche properties is that they don't seem to charge a single supplement this time of year....
Thanks, this is a great group!
Jan 17th, 2010, 02:49 PM
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Kicheche gets very good reviews - do a search on this forum for comments - and the "no single supplement" is a bonus. Sounds good to me.
Being outside the Reserve also has the advantage of being able to do bush walks, have night game drives, both of which you can arrange direct with whichever camp you select.
Being outside the Reserve also has the advantage of being able to do bush walks, have night game drives, both of which you can arrange direct with whichever camp you select.
Jan 18th, 2010, 05:23 AM
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I've stayed at both Kicheche Mara and Kicheche bush camp as a solo traveler. Both are wonderful. I think smaller camp such as these two are better when traveling alone. Meals are taken together at one large table and it's a great way to meet people. The guides and staff are first rate.
Jan 18th, 2010, 04:17 PM
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Thanks, everybody!!! I like what I've been hearing here and elsewhere about the Kicheche properties, so I'll probably go with one of them. I really like the idea of a small camp with great food, away from the mainstream crowded areas but with lots of good animals to see. Also the flexibility of game drives - longer, shorter, night, and walks - appeals. Now I just have to see which of the TO's I've contacted gives me the best deal (including NBO transfers and 2 days of day trips out of Nairobi).
Has anyone been in touch with Kennedy lately? I've emailed him 3 times over the last week, and each time have gotten the mailbox full error on both of his email addresses.
Thanks!
Kathy
Has anyone been in touch with Kennedy lately? I've emailed him 3 times over the last week, and each time have gotten the mailbox full error on both of his email addresses.
Thanks!
Kathy
Jan 19th, 2010, 04:42 PM
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Kathy, what email addresses are you using for Kennedy? Honestly, though, sometimes it takes a little persistence with E. Africa emails. See if Safarimama or LyndaS can help you get in touch. I'm at leelyagain at gmail dot com, though I haven't talked to him in months.
Jan 20th, 2010, 06:58 AM
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I was using [email protected] and [email protected] to reach Kennedy. Both report mailbox full, so I think they're the right addresses. I'll try one more time, then I need to go with someone else as I am a planner and want to get things set.
Thanks,
Kathy
Thanks,
Kathy
Jan 25th, 2010, 06:29 AM
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Okay, I've made my decisions and have it all set. I decided to have Alex at All Seasons Safaris book my stay at Kicheche Bush Camp as he was able to give me the best price. I also changed my return flight to one day earlier as from what I've heard, 1 day of doing things out of Nairobi will be enough. By then I'll be ready to get home to my husband, cats, and chickens anyway!
Here's my plan:
Feb 10-11: Depart SFO. SFO/ORD/LHR/NBO. Stay at Fairview Hotel.
Feb 12 - 14: Masai Mara (Olare Orok) - Kicheche Bush
Feb 14: Overnight at Fairview Hotel in Nairobi
Feb 15 - Mar 1: Earthwatch "Saving Kenya's Black Rhinos" ( www.earthwatch.com) research project at Ol Pejeta Conservancy
Mar 1: Overnight at Fairview Hotel in Nairobi
Mar 2: Day trip out of Nairobi; Animal Orphanage, Daphne Sheldrick, Giraffe Center
Mar 2: Leave NBO to fly home
I'm getting so excited! Thanks to everyone here for the advice in this and other threads on where to go, how to pack, etc. I've learned a lot and expect to learn even more before I leave.
Here's my plan:
Feb 10-11: Depart SFO. SFO/ORD/LHR/NBO. Stay at Fairview Hotel.
Feb 12 - 14: Masai Mara (Olare Orok) - Kicheche Bush
Feb 14: Overnight at Fairview Hotel in Nairobi
Feb 15 - Mar 1: Earthwatch "Saving Kenya's Black Rhinos" ( www.earthwatch.com) research project at Ol Pejeta Conservancy
Mar 1: Overnight at Fairview Hotel in Nairobi
Mar 2: Day trip out of Nairobi; Animal Orphanage, Daphne Sheldrick, Giraffe Center
Mar 2: Leave NBO to fly home
I'm getting so excited! Thanks to everyone here for the advice in this and other threads on where to go, how to pack, etc. I've learned a lot and expect to learn even more before I leave.
