Serengeti: Migration & Tented Camps Update
Jan 31st, 2007, 01:50 AM
#24
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Patty Eben Stakerk, and Atravelyn I include you out of courtesy
I did read your comments and do know that there is a nice little community of Fodorites and never let it be me to upset that applecart
I am happy to be a fodorite under those circumstances
BUT I still dont think people should advertise their business on this board and if a fodorite is as you so aptly put it "in the business"
perhaps they should be a lot more subtle about it
also I have no connection to Eastco that guess was incorrect BUT I did stay at Bondary Hill Lodge at Tarangire and did like it and it is not mediocre as mentioned on this board
however I have always tried to give advice without favour except that I prefer local operators whoever thay may be to those based overseas BUT that is and will continue to be my Sopa sorry soap box
I did read your comments and do know that there is a nice little community of Fodorites and never let it be me to upset that applecart
I am happy to be a fodorite under those circumstances
BUT I still dont think people should advertise their business on this board and if a fodorite is as you so aptly put it "in the business"
perhaps they should be a lot more subtle about it
also I have no connection to Eastco that guess was incorrect BUT I did stay at Bondary Hill Lodge at Tarangire and did like it and it is not mediocre as mentioned on this board
however I have always tried to give advice without favour except that I prefer local operators whoever thay may be to those based overseas BUT that is and will continue to be my Sopa sorry soap box
Jan 31st, 2007, 04:19 AM
#25
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Geelong
There is probably a connection with the Australian owners of EASTCO but it does not matter. Your opinions here are most welcome and appreciated because you love Tanzania and it shows.
About being subtle - it's a topic that pops up every few months here.
Tripadvisor, Frommers and the Lonely Planet boards are great examples of subtle advertizing at work. How can anyone trust anything on those boards?
I think it is better when discussions are open and honest. Readers can form their own opinions and take advice from whoever they wish.
I will say one thing about this board - it has the most accurate, up-to-date and best safari information on the internet. Isn't that all that matters?
There is probably a connection with the Australian owners of EASTCO but it does not matter. Your opinions here are most welcome and appreciated because you love Tanzania and it shows.
About being subtle - it's a topic that pops up every few months here.
Tripadvisor, Frommers and the Lonely Planet boards are great examples of subtle advertizing at work. How can anyone trust anything on those boards?
I think it is better when discussions are open and honest. Readers can form their own opinions and take advice from whoever they wish.
I will say one thing about this board - it has the most accurate, up-to-date and best safari information on the internet. Isn't that all that matters?
Feb 3rd, 2007, 05:06 PM
#26
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Dear Eben,
Your post have been the most informative about the migration so far in all of the net. I am planning a short 2 day trip to Serengeti (With a day at Ngorongoro) from 09 Feb 07. I have negotiated with Jackpot Safari (A certain Mr Andrew) You have any idea about this operator? Also our stay in Serengeti is in Seronera camp site (Which I initially thought perfect being in the middle with the option to move which ever direction we get news from once there). However, Maps and ground realities are very different, so many posts here and the Ndutu Lodge website have thrown light on the difficulties of driving in Serengeti in this season and the fact that the migration is best arounf Ndutu int his time of the year. So in your experience do you think Seronera is okay or should I negotiate again to camp somewhere nearer to Ndutu? Your and the other Fodorites advice would be most valuable...
Thank you,
Deep
Your post have been the most informative about the migration so far in all of the net. I am planning a short 2 day trip to Serengeti (With a day at Ngorongoro) from 09 Feb 07. I have negotiated with Jackpot Safari (A certain Mr Andrew) You have any idea about this operator? Also our stay in Serengeti is in Seronera camp site (Which I initially thought perfect being in the middle with the option to move which ever direction we get news from once there). However, Maps and ground realities are very different, so many posts here and the Ndutu Lodge website have thrown light on the difficulties of driving in Serengeti in this season and the fact that the migration is best arounf Ndutu int his time of the year. So in your experience do you think Seronera is okay or should I negotiate again to camp somewhere nearer to Ndutu? Your and the other Fodorites advice would be most valuable...
Thank you,
Deep
Feb 16th, 2007, 08:52 AM
#27
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I just want to close this thread with some final migration thoughts before I leave for a month in East Africa in 2 weeks.
There are so much misinformation and questions about it so here are my thoughts:
1. Not just wildebeest!
Water-dependent zebras, eland, and Thomson's gazelles move around as well but only zebras follow more or less the same path as the wildebeest.
2. It is not the only reason to go on safari in East Africa.
The migration is just one aspect of the East African experience. I cannot imagine the migration without the proud Maasai and their bright colors against the vast, dramatic landscape. You may come to see the wildlife, but you will fall in love with the people.
Do try to get out of the car and interact with Maasai who are important to help preserve the wildlife treasures in East Africa despite negative reports by those who do not understand the situation.
It is easy to combine the Migration with other exciting experiences such as Gorillas, Chimpanzees, trekking, climbing Kilimanjaro and relaxing at the beach! These destinations are just hours away by air!
3. It is a year-round event
It does not stop, or start! It may slow down or disperse into smaller groups but the herds must move continuously to find new sources of food and water. In all, it is estimated that they travel 2000 km every year!
4. Where and when to see the famous river crossings and crocodiles
The famous images of thousands of wildebeests and zebras swimming across croc-invested rivers are filmed in the Masai Mara in Kenya during August, September and October. The Mara River is deep, wide and fast-flowing - a dangerous obstacle for the herds and many will drown during the crossing stampedes.
Crossings occur several times a week; to be at the right place at the right time is a matter of luck and persistence. I recommend a stay of at least 5 -7 days in or near the Mara Triangle area to HOPEFULLY experience a crossing.
The Grumeti River in the Western Serengeti is also home to huge crocodiles but it is not deep enough to be much of an obstacle. In June and July the herds gather in the Western Serengeti but the water levels are often low due to the lack of rains at the river source. They don't have to swim across the river - in many places they can walk across and barely get wet! The biggest action is when the crocodiles ambush the herds when they come to drink. To get the best footage, one often has to wait for hours at the river waiting for the herds to quench their thirst!
In the Northern Serengeti, the Mara River offers yet another opportunity to see wildebeest vs. crocodile but river access is restricted due to the lack of access roads. It takes a fair amount of luck to see a crossing - late July or early November is recommended.
5. Where and when to see the biggest herds on the open plains
For a few months each year, the plains of the Mara-Serengeti region are dotted with animals as far as the eyes can see.
From August to October, the big herds can be seen in the Masai Mara in Kenya. The Masai Mara is largely open plains with several ridges and high points from where to witness the herds in all directions. In addition, there are also large herds of buffalo and even more wildebeests coming from areas outside the Mara.
In February and March, the southern Serengeti is home to the large herds and thousands of their new-born young. This area is huge and the herds can be spread out over tens of miles. For the predators (large and small) this is a time of plenty and each day brings several exciting interaction between the hunters and the hunted.
In April and May, long lines start to form as the young are strong enough to travel and the water resources on the plains dry out. The herds move NW towards the western Serengeti. Some lines are so long it appears never-ending. Big herds can still be seen but they move quickly - more than 20 miles in a night! The rains make traveling difficult but the rewards are incredible - fewer people and beautiful green landscapes.
6. What about June, July, November, December and January?
During June, July and November the migrating herds generally favor the more woody areas to the west.
The plains have dried up and the herds are looking for water from perennial rivers. Most of these rivers are near Seronera and surroundings and in the western corridor. The woody terrain dictates that the animals assemble in smaller herds and they can often be found in forest areas where tsetse flies are bothersome and viewing is restricted. The western corridor has limited game routes and the hilly terrain will often obscure the true scope of the migration. A few special places such as the Grumeti Reserves, the areas near Lobo and north near the Mara River are open and with great viewing with no obstructions - timing is everything!
December and January are hybrid months - if November and December were blessed with good rains the woodlands will have large tsetse concentrations and zebras in particular prefer the safety of the open plains so they will lead the way to the plains where they will reduce the grass much to the liking of the wildebeest and eventually the Tommies. During rainy periods, the herds may well move quickly to the Ndutu area in the south. From there they will move great distances in all directions until they drop their young (have to stay put for a few weeks).
During dry periods in November, December and January (as in 2005/06), the Serengeti plains (with no surface water) will be void of water-dependent wildlife and you will find the herds in smaller groups in the woods in the western areas.
7. In the Serengeti, mobile camps (some are very luxurious) do increase the odds of experiencing the migration at its best
While there are great permanent accommodations in the Serengeti (Ndutu, Grumeti River, Kirawira, Migration Camp, Kleins, Sasakwa, ETC), because the migration is unpredictable your best bet (when booking a year ahead) is with seasonal or mobile camps or a combination of these great lodges and the mobile camps.
As with any business, mobile and seasonal camps are not created equal and quality differ. Most are unknown to the outside world except for a few agents and outfitters who focus on the mobile safari experience. Be careful when booking budget or semi-luxury or even luxury camps! The term “luxury” is overused.
Mobile safaris are not an easy business. Camps move and when they do, the logistics of a well-planned safari will quickly go up in smoke. For example, your camp just moved to Ndutu but your return flight is out of Seronera. A long unexpected drive to the airstrip has to be arranged, you may not have NCA fees in hand and your driver may not know the new location of the camp!
And how does an agent plan a sensible safari when he/she has no clue of the eventual locations of the camps to begin with?
But the rewards can hardly be put in words although we all try in our trip reports!
8. I do try to keep the migration maps accurate here. http://www.go-safari.com/Serengeti/serengeti.htm IMHO the big clock-wise migration circles displayed on many web sites make for colorful viewing but these are not accurate according to recent research and my own observations.
There are so much misinformation and questions about it so here are my thoughts:
1. Not just wildebeest!
Water-dependent zebras, eland, and Thomson's gazelles move around as well but only zebras follow more or less the same path as the wildebeest.
2. It is not the only reason to go on safari in East Africa.
The migration is just one aspect of the East African experience. I cannot imagine the migration without the proud Maasai and their bright colors against the vast, dramatic landscape. You may come to see the wildlife, but you will fall in love with the people.
Do try to get out of the car and interact with Maasai who are important to help preserve the wildlife treasures in East Africa despite negative reports by those who do not understand the situation.
It is easy to combine the Migration with other exciting experiences such as Gorillas, Chimpanzees, trekking, climbing Kilimanjaro and relaxing at the beach! These destinations are just hours away by air!
3. It is a year-round event
It does not stop, or start! It may slow down or disperse into smaller groups but the herds must move continuously to find new sources of food and water. In all, it is estimated that they travel 2000 km every year!
4. Where and when to see the famous river crossings and crocodiles
The famous images of thousands of wildebeests and zebras swimming across croc-invested rivers are filmed in the Masai Mara in Kenya during August, September and October. The Mara River is deep, wide and fast-flowing - a dangerous obstacle for the herds and many will drown during the crossing stampedes.
Crossings occur several times a week; to be at the right place at the right time is a matter of luck and persistence. I recommend a stay of at least 5 -7 days in or near the Mara Triangle area to HOPEFULLY experience a crossing.
The Grumeti River in the Western Serengeti is also home to huge crocodiles but it is not deep enough to be much of an obstacle. In June and July the herds gather in the Western Serengeti but the water levels are often low due to the lack of rains at the river source. They don't have to swim across the river - in many places they can walk across and barely get wet! The biggest action is when the crocodiles ambush the herds when they come to drink. To get the best footage, one often has to wait for hours at the river waiting for the herds to quench their thirst!
In the Northern Serengeti, the Mara River offers yet another opportunity to see wildebeest vs. crocodile but river access is restricted due to the lack of access roads. It takes a fair amount of luck to see a crossing - late July or early November is recommended.
5. Where and when to see the biggest herds on the open plains
For a few months each year, the plains of the Mara-Serengeti region are dotted with animals as far as the eyes can see.
From August to October, the big herds can be seen in the Masai Mara in Kenya. The Masai Mara is largely open plains with several ridges and high points from where to witness the herds in all directions. In addition, there are also large herds of buffalo and even more wildebeests coming from areas outside the Mara.
In February and March, the southern Serengeti is home to the large herds and thousands of their new-born young. This area is huge and the herds can be spread out over tens of miles. For the predators (large and small) this is a time of plenty and each day brings several exciting interaction between the hunters and the hunted.
In April and May, long lines start to form as the young are strong enough to travel and the water resources on the plains dry out. The herds move NW towards the western Serengeti. Some lines are so long it appears never-ending. Big herds can still be seen but they move quickly - more than 20 miles in a night! The rains make traveling difficult but the rewards are incredible - fewer people and beautiful green landscapes.
6. What about June, July, November, December and January?
During June, July and November the migrating herds generally favor the more woody areas to the west.
The plains have dried up and the herds are looking for water from perennial rivers. Most of these rivers are near Seronera and surroundings and in the western corridor. The woody terrain dictates that the animals assemble in smaller herds and they can often be found in forest areas where tsetse flies are bothersome and viewing is restricted. The western corridor has limited game routes and the hilly terrain will often obscure the true scope of the migration. A few special places such as the Grumeti Reserves, the areas near Lobo and north near the Mara River are open and with great viewing with no obstructions - timing is everything!
December and January are hybrid months - if November and December were blessed with good rains the woodlands will have large tsetse concentrations and zebras in particular prefer the safety of the open plains so they will lead the way to the plains where they will reduce the grass much to the liking of the wildebeest and eventually the Tommies. During rainy periods, the herds may well move quickly to the Ndutu area in the south. From there they will move great distances in all directions until they drop their young (have to stay put for a few weeks).
During dry periods in November, December and January (as in 2005/06), the Serengeti plains (with no surface water) will be void of water-dependent wildlife and you will find the herds in smaller groups in the woods in the western areas.
7. In the Serengeti, mobile camps (some are very luxurious) do increase the odds of experiencing the migration at its best
While there are great permanent accommodations in the Serengeti (Ndutu, Grumeti River, Kirawira, Migration Camp, Kleins, Sasakwa, ETC), because the migration is unpredictable your best bet (when booking a year ahead) is with seasonal or mobile camps or a combination of these great lodges and the mobile camps.
As with any business, mobile and seasonal camps are not created equal and quality differ. Most are unknown to the outside world except for a few agents and outfitters who focus on the mobile safari experience. Be careful when booking budget or semi-luxury or even luxury camps! The term “luxury” is overused.
Mobile safaris are not an easy business. Camps move and when they do, the logistics of a well-planned safari will quickly go up in smoke. For example, your camp just moved to Ndutu but your return flight is out of Seronera. A long unexpected drive to the airstrip has to be arranged, you may not have NCA fees in hand and your driver may not know the new location of the camp!
And how does an agent plan a sensible safari when he/she has no clue of the eventual locations of the camps to begin with?
But the rewards can hardly be put in words although we all try in our trip reports!
8. I do try to keep the migration maps accurate here. http://www.go-safari.com/Serengeti/serengeti.htm IMHO the big clock-wise migration circles displayed on many web sites make for colorful viewing but these are not accurate according to recent research and my own observations.
Feb 16th, 2007, 09:35 AM
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yikes -- I wish I can edit these posts. In point 5, in April and May they start to move as food resources start to dimish (they should have enough water thanks to the rains).
The grass is maturing and not palatable.
The grass is maturing and not palatable.
May 9th, 2007, 12:34 PM
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Hi. My family and I are going to Tanzania in December and plan to be in the Serengeti in mid-December. We were planning on staying 2 nights at Ndutu Lodge and 2 nights in a tented camp..but which? We would love your suggestions based on your own experiences!
We are thinking about Olakira or Sayari South mobile camps, a new Serengeti tented camp in the Embulbul depression, or a camp in the northern area. Any suggestions? Are Olakira or Sayari too similar in area to Ndutu? Will the new Serengeti tented camp be too far outside of the Serengeti? Any idea on if this will be nice or significantly less in quality than the others I have mentioned? Will we want to stay in the northern area for a different perspective or "stay where the action is"? How realistic is it to drive from one part of the Serengeti to others while on game drives? Which is better - Olakira or Sayari South? Does 4 nights sound about right?
Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions!!!
We are thinking about Olakira or Sayari South mobile camps, a new Serengeti tented camp in the Embulbul depression, or a camp in the northern area. Any suggestions? Are Olakira or Sayari too similar in area to Ndutu? Will the new Serengeti tented camp be too far outside of the Serengeti? Any idea on if this will be nice or significantly less in quality than the others I have mentioned? Will we want to stay in the northern area for a different perspective or "stay where the action is"? How realistic is it to drive from one part of the Serengeti to others while on game drives? Which is better - Olakira or Sayari South? Does 4 nights sound about right?
Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions!!!
