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-   -   SELF DRIVE SAFARI OPTION (https://www.fodors.com/community/africa-and-the-middle-east/self-drive-safari-option-719917/)

scubatv Jul 11th, 2007 07:51 AM

SELF DRIVE SAFARI OPTION
 
SELF DRIVE SAFARI OPTION



FREEDOM AND SOLITUDE, WHAT ARE THESE WORTH?


We have some pretty cool photos of a Leopard taken at Khwai, Moremi.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/travelt...7600761611065/

The Leopard was lying in the grass with a carcass hanging in the tree above. Several camp operators came by allowing the eight or so passengers in the vehicle to click away, but after a time they left. We guessed they were off looking for some other type of wildlife, but Karen and I questioned, what could be better than a Leopard lying next to you on the grass with a ready meal above? Why would anyone want to leave, and to see what?

We had the choice to stay or go, unfortunately, the others did not and the operators took group after group away until we were alone at the golden hour.

The Leopard leaped up into the tree, (what an amazing sight to see). We pulled into position and clicked away, alone. Solitude, how much is that worth?

Freedom is having your own vehicle. Not being stuck in camp at midday, if you don’t like the people you are with, or crammed into a middle seat, you can just go.

You can go off as you please. If you don’t like the camp, if you hear of a special place, you can leave. If you like frozen Snickers, you reach into your fridge/freezer and get yourself one or two.


WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE?

In truth, there is very little difference in flying into San Francisco and renting a car from Avis or flying into Saigon (Ho Chi Min City) and renting a moped from the local camera store.

Now days and for quite a while, travel infrastructure has been present in all but the most horrible or remote places on the planet.


IT EITHER HAPPENS OR IT DOESN’T

Traveling reveals that so much of the world is basically the same, but, one thing you could say separates individual people, is our perception of chance or risk.

It’s easily explained that all risk, all chance is 50-50. It either happens or it doesn’t.

When traveling to Africa, we all take similar chances. We fly in the same planes and often drive on the same tracks. Just because you’re staying at an up market lodge, doesn’t mean that the fancy Land Cruiser you’re driving in is immune from breaking down.

Camp vehicles are run day in and day out, for weeks on end, often by staff which are not the best drivers, so, the vehicles do break down.

Stories are frequently reported about terrible experiences with camp operators and their safari vehicles. Luangwablondes recently wrote about a bad experience with a camp when their open air Land Cruiser’s fuel pump broke late on moonless night while viewing a pride of Lions. The driver had forgotten to charge the radio and they were stuck. They had the choice of sitting there waiting, with no one knowing where they were, or walking back to camp, past where the Lions had just walked off their kill.

You guess what they did.

Overland forums have repeatedly told stories of assisting/rescuing camp vehicles and their guests and the amazing thing is, some of camp drivers are often unwilling to help out others.

I’ve witnessed (and posted the story on Fodor’s) a camp operator getting stuck in the sand at the exact location as we did in Botswana, and reported, when we were digging out our camper the night before, that camp vehicles were turning off the track in front of us, not stopping or helping.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/travelt...7600762149999/


MINIMIZE RISK

In many ways self drive safaris minimize the above stated risks. Other than the air fare, your only risk expense is the camper rental, and there is no risk if you use Bushlore.

Besides, camper rental fees go on your credit card and the rest of your expenses, you pay out of your own pocket en route. You decide where and when your money goes.

NOTE: Remember to get a credit card from a bank that does not have “extra forex fees.”

Break downs are a mess no matter where, when or to whom they happen - But still, I’d much prefer to have all my breakdowns in an African national wildlife park – some people even plan them.

At least in your own self sufficient camper, you can set up camp, enjoy a dinner and some cold beer while you wait for help. Really, would a break down in a wildlife park in Africa be so bad?

Imagine the wildlife that could come crawling around camp at night. Nighttime is such a wonderful time to be out on your own in the parks, the viewing is limited, but the wildlife is everywhere in abundance. The sound, THE SOUNDS of Africa at night are unbelievable.

Anyway, after a breakdown, everyone is in the same situation, stuck on the side of the road, but in my opinion, time passes more quickly if you actively trying to solve the challenge instead of sitting under a tree, swatting flies, waiting for a camp manager to bail you out.

Luckily, you’re not on Mt. Everest and in a situation where people will leave you to die.

NOTE: Most break downs are caused by the driver’s excessive speed, tipping the camper.


ACCIDENTS HAPPEN

In Africa, like everywhere else, accidents happen, people deal with them and things will eventually be sorted out. The Sat phone is good, call the camper company and let them worry. You sit back in your cozy camper chair, watch and wait.

Camper rental companies rent only safari vehicles, and the best companies (bushlore.com) are responsible for breakdowns, therefore, keeping the campers running is a top priority.

NOTE: Look at the beautiful camper we got from Bushlore last year. They did not know us, we found them on the internet and initially sent them a letter of inquiry.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/travelt...7600516744453/

After four years and 15,000 kilometers, all we have to show for it are 100 hours of video, 10,000 + photographs and two flat tires, pretty uneventful trips.


AVAILABLE SAFARI OPTIONS

Everyone will make their own choices and with that in mind, what Luangwablondes and I are writing about is making people here at Fodor’s aware of the available safari options. Options that are already well known to many.

Self drive safaris in Africa are popular. The Camp sites quickly fill up for a reason; Africans, Europeans and increasingly, people from the states are doing this in droves.

You’d be surprised how many people are first time self drivers – especially in Botswana. If you can take a trip to Africa and feel comfortable driving, you can do a Botswana self drive trip.

Botswana could almost be called a walk in the park for self drivers. The camps have water available, some with hot showers, rangers a plenty and wildlife at every turn of the road.

Zimbabwe is even more luxurious for self drive safaris, with camp fire wood for sale, lodging and restaurants in some parks that rival South Africa. Although, with the political situation, many park restaurants often are short on food.

Karen and I traveled through Zimbabwe (top to bottom) the last two years and had a wonderful time, meeting good, really smart generous and compassionate people. And recent reports from Hwange say the Lion population is back in full force. Other parks in Zimbabwe are also magnificent and often fully booked.

For some people, Zambia is the prize jewel. Parts of the country are easily traveled, but if you’re looking for rugged adventure, Zambia is for you.

The abundance of lodging just outside of Lower Luangwa Nation Park, Mfuwe, Adorata, Wildlife Camp and Flatdogs, makes travel quite comfortable.

Stay at one of the above camps, eat at the lodge for dinner, enjoy a beer, wake up early, enter the park and drive around at you own pace. Do your free night drives between or just outside of the camps, repeat. What a lovely time to be had by all.

Ok having written all this, people do have different traveling experiences behind them. There could be certain things some take for granted that others might have to work through. But, in Karen’s and my situation, we are regular people, born and brought up in a big city, unable to find or change a spark plug. Anyone can do as we’ve done.

kmjmmm Jul 11th, 2007 08:20 AM

Thank you for a great post
We are doing the self drive in August. Can't figure out if there is a place to hire a guide to go with us or if this is necessary. Opinion?
Any specific advice on what sort of vehicle to rent. I didn't think of the camper idea and now am booked in some of the lodges in Kruger. I haven't planned out Drakenberg yet or if driving from Drakenburg to Kruger is an option. Anyone know if that is an interesting drive?

luangwablondes Jul 11th, 2007 06:52 PM

kmjmmm
You really don't need a guide. The roads are very good and there are lots of good maps. I think you can rent a car nowadays with a gps and map. That is one route I haven't done in SA, so I really can't comment.


If you want to plan your route on your pc at home, go to www.tracks4africa.com and get the SA map for the areas you are going to- cheap. You will need Mapsource software on your computer at home to use it. Email me and I'll tell you how to do that. luangwablondes at juno dot com


cary999 Jul 11th, 2007 09:13 PM

Great post, most interesting, thanks.
I looked at bushlore web site, impressive. But they do not give any rates, can you give me an idea of the daily hire rate for a nice 4x4? Or another type of vehicle that you like.
regards - tom

cary999 Jul 11th, 2007 09:16 PM

Oh, also, very nice leopard photos at Kwhai.
regards - tom

luangwablondes Jul 11th, 2007 10:04 PM

kmjmmm

Got a recommendation for you.

There is a good stop-over in Newcastle, a nice B&B called Hilldrop House which has an interesting antique photographic collection and has connections with Rider Haggard. Route to Newcastle via Ladysmith which has umpteen Boer War museums and battle sites.

Between Ladysmith and Newcastle you can optionally route via Dundee and Rorkes Drift (Battle of Isandalwana [Anglo-Zulu War]) Google "Battlefields Route" for more info. Most VCs ever awarded in one day at Rorkes drift.

Volksrust has connections with the 1st Boer War (Battle of Amajuba). Good biltong at Charlestown, just before Volksrust.

From Volksrust route via Ermelo and then over the very scenic pass towards (all boring until you get to) Barberton (Jock of the Bushveld memorial and statue, gold mining history), then to the KNP.

Route is all tar.

scubatv Jul 12th, 2007 06:12 AM

Cary999,

Sure Bushlore publishes their rental rates; they hold nothing back, full disclosure. You will really like this company.

http://www.bushlore.com/pl.asp

And here is a link to the 4x4 Vehicles

http://www.bushlore.com/pl.asp

And here is Mark’s email address. Tell him I sent you, what you have planned and he will help.

[email protected]


If Luangwablondes is routing you on tar and to B&B’s, you can save money by not getting the camping equipment and a smaller 4x4.

And thank you for your kind comments, we hope you have a great trip – you will.

Contact Luangwablondes, take his advice, he will not steer you wrong. We’ve worked with him for four years and have learned to just “say yes”.

scubatv Jul 12th, 2007 06:14 AM

Ops, wrong link

Bushlore 4x4 Vehicles
http://www.bushlore.com/Vehicles.asp


cruisinred Jul 12th, 2007 06:17 AM

hi scubatv-

I've been communicating with Bushlore regarding a rental. My friends and I will likely be doing a self drive in Bots/Namib at the end of Sept. (rather late in planning I realize).

The Bushlore equipment list is quite extensive, but are there a few things in particular that you have found useful to bring with you? (I was trying to think of a few things to bring such as ziploc baggies or bungie cords that might be useful). Any helpful hints greatly appreciated.

Cruisinred



scubatv Jul 12th, 2007 06:24 AM

Yes Cruisinred,

I saw your post on the African Self Drive Itinerary thread, and I’ve been writing something up for you. I’ll finish it soon and post.

cruisinred Jul 12th, 2007 06:33 AM

Sorry for the double post....I wasn't sure you saw my post on the other thread. Thanks

climbhighsleeplow Jul 12th, 2007 07:58 AM

Great post!

I will add that self-drive in East Africa is a lot easier than it looks. Especially with the open plains and mountain ranges - it is quite easy to navigate around.

GPS waypoints are everywhere (I have hundreds of my own) and excellent cell-phone coverages for emergencies make this a good option in the future.

It is growing in popularity but slowly. I like the idea and will gladly help all beginners with GPS data, camping equipment and back-end support.

Eben

luangwablondes Jul 13th, 2007 02:02 PM

Eben

Could you rough out an itinerary for us and approximate its cost?

climbhighsleeplow Jul 13th, 2007 02:25 PM

Robbie

I am willing to help on a personal (not business) level.

I have plenty of camping equipment in my warehouse in Arusha and even a spare Landcruiser or two.

My idea is to help individuals who want to attempt this with some back end support such as:

Camping equipment
Maps and GPS waypoints
Game-viewing and camp site advice
Emergency phone numbers
Rescue service (at a per-incident fee)
Booking services for camp sites and last-minute lodges (let's assume you have an emergency and must check into a lodge. When you show up at a lodge you will pay full rack rates, whereas a cell call to someone in Arusha will save $$)
And so on.

I am not in the rental business and I do not know about rules and insurance so I cannot provide cars, but if you can rent a car in Arusha I can certainly outfit it and provide support.

There are options available today but these are rather budget-oriented.

Anyway, it is just a thought!

luangwablondes Jul 13th, 2007 02:55 PM

Eben
I have been on my own selfdrive to East Africa several times, mostly orginating out of SA. But I thought to ask so someone else with an different perspective might have some insights to offer that I have overlooked. I am biased to Southern Africa, but have always looked at Tanzania as the next place to explore in depth. I was wondering what you would recommend for say for a selfdrive, self catering camping trip on the Northern circut or Southern circut starting out Dar or Arusha/Moshi.

Robbie


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