Safari - South Africa, Botswana & Vic Falls
 

My boyfriend and I are planning a very last minute trip to Southern Africa and would really value some input. We are planning to go the end of May to the beginning of June. I have read up on the boards prior to posting and that has led me to want to visit Kruger (4-5 days at 2 lodges), Chobe (3 nights), Victoria Falls (1-2 nights) and Okavango Delta (2-3 nights). I would love some advice on how long to stay in each area and about the lodges/ tents that we listed below. We are not very resort type people and love the tents on platforms, though they seem so expensive. As long as there is a bathroom in suite, I am fine. Any advice on the Okavango Delta is great too. It will probably cost about $1800-2200 per person for 2-3 nights including the charter flights. So is it worth it? I know that is so subjective. Are main objective in going to Africa is to see game, particularly lion, elephant, giraffe, leopard and cheetah but the mokoro and traveling in such solitude does appeal to us.

Do you think it is possible to spend only 1 night in Livingstone to see the Falls if we get there late morning/early afternoon and then go to Chobe the next day?

Does anyone recommend traveling from Johannesburg to Kruger (Sabi Sands or Timbavati) by car rental? We were thinking a plane for $200 roundtrip would take about 3 hours each way factoring in flight, transportation etc. and about 6 hours each way by car. I guess we are trying to figure out if it is worth it.

Also is there any close beach destination that you would recommend to spend a few days of relaxation?

Here are the hotels we are looking at. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

South Africa

Kirkman's Kamp
Ngala Safari Lodge
Elephant Plains Lodge or Arathusa Safari Lodge
Tanda Tula (Timbuvati)

Okavango Delta

Kwetsani
Kanana
Kwara
Tubu Tree
Nxabega
Seba

Of the safari camps you list I've been only to Ngala Safari Lodge, eight nights in Sept 2008. It was ok but I put it in the bottom half of my list of favorite safari camps.

About driving or flying from JNB to Timbavati/Sabi Sand camps. What's car rental out of JNB, $30-50 per day? What are you going to do with the car while in camp, still incur $30-50 per day cost? If you drive JNB to Sabi Sand or Timbavati will you get in camp in time for the afternoon game drive? Or will you arrive later only in time for dinner and a bed, a rather expensive dinner and bed. Same question driving back to JNB, will you get back in time for you plane flight or will you have to spend the night at a JNB hotel? On that question, I'd fly.

regards - tom

How long in each area and accommodations:

Kruger (4-5 days at 2 lodges)
I'd do 2 in Timbavati and 3 at Kirkmans and if Kirkman's didn't fit the budget, then Elephant Plains.

(Actually I'd do 4 at Mala Mala as a first choice or 4 at Kirkman's, which is right next to Mala Mala, and just stay at one accommodation. But that wasn't one of your choices. Of these, I've been only to Mala Mala. You fly to MM from Joburg so the car is a non-issue.)

Chobe (3 nights)
I'd probably go with Chobe Game Lodge for pricing or a nearby hotel-type structure. Chobe Chilwero would be a more remote tented camp for a higher cost. The boat rides, which are great, leave from Chobe Game Lodge's dock. I'd try to visit the falls on a day trip from Chobe, which might mean you'd need one more day there. But 3 nts. Chobe with a day at the falls is very typical I am sure.

Victoria Falls (1-2 nights)
I'd visit from Chobe as shown above. But if you wanted to spend just one night, which you mentioned, you certainly can see the falls with one night only. From Victoria Falls Hotel or from Ilala Lodge in Vic Falls, the falls are a 5-10 minute safe walk away in beautiful, undeveloped surroundings.

and Okavango Delta (2-3 nights).
I'd stay 3 nights if you are making the effort to get there. Of the places you listed, I'd pick Kwara as a first choice and Kwetsani as a second choice. I believe Seba allows you some elephant activities with habituated or maybe even trained but semi-wild elephants. If that was of interest you could investigate.

Is Okavango worth it? If you think you'll be going back to Africa and spending time in Botswana, then I'd save the delta. If this is likely the one and only Africa trip, then if you can afford it, include the delta. It is far more lush than the Sabi Sands. Though you have the Chobe River, it is not the endless delta with red lechwe bounding through.

Beach? If it is to relax, and you have at least 3 more days, I'd say spend some time in Cape Town where I saw some great beaches and but it was too cold for swimming in July/August when I was there. Also, I find driving safaris very relaxing because you have several hours most afternoons of down time. Read, nap, birdwatch from your tent/lodge, sit and look at a waterhole or similar, swing in a hammock. Back to Cape Town--you could sit along the rocky coast (not beach) at Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve and watch the waves for hours, relaxing. I think the unique and beautiful city of Cape Town would be a nice addition to your trip and offer some non-safari relaxation and, conveniently, there are almostly hourly flights between Cape Town and Joburg. But if I had some more days and more money that I was going to devote to the beach and not Cape Town, then I'd allocate them to my safari instead.


You'd have a well rounded trip with your suggestions.

I just noticed you wanted to stay in Livingstone and not Vic Falls. You could still see the falls in one day at that location.

To add to Lynn's post above, if you pick Kwara - recommend a 3 night stay at the very minimum. It's a big concession with plenty of activities and game viewing. To give you an idea, the boat trip to the Godikwe Lagoon to view the Heronery is a must-do and that takes one evening.........

Mekero ride etc etc., is over-rated - so, stick to the game drives!!!

Thank you so much for your feedback.

Cary999 - What was it about Ngala Safari Lodge that you didn't like? Accommodations? Food? Game drives?

Atravelynn - Is there an advantage to staying in Vic Falls over Livingstone?

After your feedback, we are definitely leaning toward going to the Delta and staying at Kwara.

Hi there

May/June is a lovely time but you will probably just miss the delta flooding...

I personally adore Tanda Tula in Timbavati and would combine it with Nottens in the Sabi Sands. You will be ideally located for fab game veiwing in both - small, intimate camps with exceptional guiding. Ngala is big. Mala Mala is great if you have pots of money and a hankering to the slightly twee / conservative (that is a totally personal opinion)... but game veiwing/guiding is excellent.

Chobe Chilwero is not tented... If you want something rather unique look at andbeyonds chobe under canvas or savute under canvas. Chobe Game Lodge is a big lodge - 57 rooms I believe. Kwara is lovely and the guides are outstanding - you will also have a range of experiences from land to water. That said Shinde and Xakanaxa are also worth looking at depending on budget. Little Vumbura is another good general camp.

Livingstone can definately be done for one night to see the falls...

Cape Town - you may have super weather or you may hit rain. It all depends. Try Camps Bay or somewhere like 'The Longbeach' in Noordhoek if you would like right on the beach off the well beaten tourist path. Alternatively Kensington Place is also a special spot on the slopes of Table mountaian overlooking the city bowl.

Have a lovely time

I wouldn't recommend the beaches of Cape Town in May / June. That's winter, mind you I hear Blackpool is beautiful in November :D

I think you can rent a car in JNB drive to Skukuza and drop off, then re-rent on the return, you might want to check into that. Its about a six-seven hour drive, depending on the usual factors and you'll want to arrange for the camp to meet you at the car rental if you do drop it off. Kirkmans would be a fine choice of camp in Sabi Sand, and very close to the Skukuza car rental (it's a few years since I did this, so caveat applies).
Look at Mapula in the Delta, just what you're looking for and very reasonable (by Bots standards).
I would definitely give the falls 24 hours, fly in one afternoon and out the next.
It seems a practical consideration is going to be whether you can actually transfer from one location to another in good time.
I would definitely enlist the support of an agent on this one.

Staycee33 - re Ngala Lodge (not tented camp)
It wasn't so much I didn't like it was that I've been to better. (Although did frustrate my photography desires). And in fact had just came from Kings Camp (also in the Timbavati) which I liked much more. Here is my Fodors trip report on both.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...4&tid=35161085
The Ngala part is after the Kings Camp part.

regards - tom

We got married and spent our honeymoon in Africa last August. We originally planned on doing what you are planning, but the travel time and cost were to much. It is long travel times between the various locations. So we decided to spend the full 2 weeks on Safari in South Africa and do Botswana and Vic falls another trip.

We got Married at Camp Jabulani with elephants (pictures on trip advisor for the lodge), which was great. Then spent time at Ngala...recommend the walking safari tented camp...plenty comnfortable and a great way to see wildlife fromn a different perspective. Ngala and Kirkman both had specials spay 4 nights and pay for 3 which we took advantage of. We stayed at Exeter Leadwood instead of Kirkmans, same group that runs them. And finally 3 nights at Elephant plains.

transfers between the lodges were easily done after morning game drives but before the afternoon so missed nothing. The walking safari was great difference. It was a wonderful trip and are planning on returning next year for sure.

For general safari tips have a look at http://www.planyoursafari.com.
Info on accommodations will follow soon.

hi stacey,

if you can hold off one week, the airfare on SAA is going to drop on april 1 for travel in june. also, wilderness safaris just converted june from high to low season for pricing so you should really consider their camps as they are now a relative bargain. instead of the chobe, wilderness safaris has three classic camps just west of the chobe in the linyanti concession. they are savuit, duma tau, and selinda. by june, there will be massive herds of elephants on these lands and the experience is much more private than the eastern chobe. i have been to all these places and duma tau was just voted the #5 safari lodge in the world by conde nast. now, wilderness safaris also has a stay7pay6 special good through june 30. basically, you now get low season rates and one night free so this is a huge discount. i recommend you move your chobe safari to the linyanti and then add some more time in the delta at kwetsani or tubu tree plus one more camp. maybe chitabe or chetabe ledibe. i have been to all of these camps and i would not recommend visiting tubu tree and kwetsani on the same trip. they are both wonderful but too close to each other and too similar. in fact, in april and may (and early june) guests at kwetsani do some dry land game drives at tubu tree.

for the sabi sands, if the properties you listed i recommend kirkmans. i have been to everywhere you listed except arathusa and elephant plains. i was at djuma which is right next to elephant plains in december 2008. kirkmans in in the more productive lower sabi sands area right on the sabi river. you should also consider malamala and lion sands.

a flight to the sabi sands will be $200 EACH WAY not round trip. on one of my safaris in 2008 i flew to the sabi sands in march and drove back to jnb. on my second safari in 2008 i drove to the sabi sands in a rental car from jnb. you can store the car at the lodge but you will pay the daily rate. the drive is 6-7 hours and fun/safe.

you will need to stay in johannesburg before going to vic falls or botswana. I DO NOT recommend you take the icon africa charter to vic falls from skekuza.

i recommend you go to vic falls last. it makes for a hectic morning to leave camp in botswana and fly to johannesburg. i recommend you go to vic falls on your last night and leave from there to return home.

shout if you need more help. also, what US city are you starting from?


craig beal

I don't put much stock in the voting/ranking of properties by travel mags. Too often the criteria seems to be expensive luxury or who buys advertising in the mag. BUT, I thought Duma Tau was great with nice elephant viewing right from camp and a loo with a view that is hard to top. I don't know if it is #5 or whatever in the world, but I'd gladly go back.

Switching from the Chobe region to the Linyanti region, and staying at a place such as Duma Tau, would:

-be more expensive than the hotel type accommodations found in Chobe, but closer in price to something like Chilwero

-be more secluded than Chobe

-offer elephant populations similar to Chobe--in either place the biggest herds occur later in the dry season, but you should see quite a few eles at either Chobe or Linyanti

-have no spectacular Chobe River cruise, even though you can do a boat trip from Duma Tau but it is not on the same level

-require an overnight in Vic Falls or Livingstone because a daytrip from Linyanti is not possible whereas a day trip from Chobe is common offering

-give a slightly better chance at seeing the wild dogs because there often is a pack that dens in the region and they often are denning in June. Although wild dogs are in Chobe as well. Wild dogs are tough to see anywhere.

You have some nice options with many winners.

Hello All:

I noticed Craig's posting today that Wilderness has changed June from high to low rates. I am booked for June and have not paid my final balance as of yet. I do have a 2100.00 PP deposit invested. T/A will call Wilderness to see what they will do for husband and I. She said they may not honor the change in price for us because we booked early. I am a bit ticked that they may not honor the downward change in price before final payment. Any thoughts on this? If they do not honor, should I cancel and travel to South Africa or with another provider? Hope I am not venting too much, but a lot of time and energy and money (that I have scrimped and saved) is being invested in this trip. Thanks for any insight.

I posted on another thread, betting a round of sundowners that your request is honored.

If the answer is no, could you cancel and book the same properties? Would the cancellation penalty be less than rebooking?

lrob,

the situation is much worse for people who booked early with cruise lines as most are offering free air and 50% the fares from three month ago...

i hope your ta can help, but i would sort of doubt it and don't blame him/her if she can't! the booking is almost like a contract. i know this can be upsetting.

craig