BHowerton

I am about to book six nights in the Bushcamp Co. bush camps in South Luangwa in October. My primary interest is to spend some solid time on the ground in as unfiltered an experience with the area as possible. I also, however, would like to have at least a couple of close encounters with game for photo purposes, so that not all of my shots from the trip are taken on the far end of a 400mm lens.

Understanding that on foot it is neither wise nor practical to get really close to the larger game in the area (elephants, predators etc.), and accepting this part of the experience, I wonder if any of you have been on walks in the area, have some insight into the proximity to game one can expect on a walk in October in South Luangwa (as opposed to other reports on the site re: the bushcamp co. walks which, while very informative, seem to have related to trips much earlier in the season), and may have an opinion on whether it might make more sense to sacrifice a day or two in the bush camps for a day or two at Mfuwe Lodge (with its game drives) for a better chance at close proximity (day time) game encounters. If the experience of any of you suggests the walks are going to offer even reasonable proximity to game, I’ll just stay in the bush camps.

Many thanks for your thoughts and input.....

cooncat3

I am one of those who has been to this area with Bush Camp Company. Since I was there early in the season I won't comment too much, but just to say that you will be offered an afternoon - night drive. And quite possibly you can do a morning drive if you request it and others in camp are OK with it. Have a great time.

Sharon

matnikstym

we did a game walk last October in south luangwa. came between a herd of buffalo and some elephants, elephants saw the buffalo, ran towards us, saw us and turned around and took off. all this happened QUITE a distance but still scary. another time at sundowners we parked close to a herd of zebra who didn't spook so spent time with them. also sundowners on the cliff overlooking the hippos is probably the closest. if you want closeness to the big animals, it's probably going to have to be from a vehicle.

GreenDrake

I did the Bushcamp Company S.Luangwa Encounter trip in September, 2004. 6 nights in 3 different bushcamps and 2 nights at Mfuwe Lodge. (Full report is linked in the South Africa trip index thread on this page).

As you know you will have a chance to have some close encounters in the bushcamps on the night game drives, but these will be under low or "no-light" conditions. As far as to close proximity to animals on foot we got fairly close to hippos in the water on foot, but were very careful to give elephants ample distance. My two big cat sightings on foot were from at least a couple of hundred of yards away.

Also note that Bilimungwe is located on a water hole and I had ample opportunities to get very close to wart hogs, impala, kudu, waterbucks, baboons, and had elephants using this waterhole. Chamilandu is also on the S.Luangwa and Chindeni on an oxbow lagoon and both offered photo opps for elephants and hippos from my porch.

However, if you want big cat day time photos at very close proximity, the Mfuwe lodge location is located in a game rich area and will give you that opportunity.

Roccco

BHowerton,

As others have mentioned, you will have the opportunity for both gamedrives and walking safaris at Bushcamp Company's camps. Also, you should be sure that you are qualifying for the best rates as with a 7 night stay at Bushcamp Company's camps, including Mfuwe Lodge, the rates are much better.

Bushcamp Company has some prime locations but you may also want to consider adding a camp in the northern part of the park. Kaingo or Tafika would fit this description and you would have the chance for pure game drives if that is what you desire for those days spent with Kaingo or Tafika.

Here are the websites for Kaingo and Tafika:

www.kaingo.com
www.remoteafrica.com (Tafika)

Then for a nice luxury option in South Luangwa, it does not get any better than Luangwa River Lodge:

www.luangwariverlodge.com

Also, what about Lower Zambezi? No trip to Zambia is complete without a visit to Lower Zambezi. Here are some of the best camps in Lower Zambezi:

www.chiawa.com (see their bushcamp, Old Mondoro, as well)
www.chongwe-river.com
www.kasakariverlodge.com
www.starofafrica.com (Kulefu)

afrigalah

My walking experience doesn't extend to South Luangwa but it does tell me that on balance, you're not as likely to get as close to the animals as you would in a vehicle except (for example) when waiting in hiding at a waterhole. This doesn't mean you won't get very, very close sometimes. On one walk in Hwange NP, our guide and tracker got us to within 15 metres of a black rhino on one occasion and right up to a wild dog den on another. A friend who used the same guide on a number of occasions in both Zimbabwe and Zambia once came upon lions unexpectedly...a lioness, quite close, flattened herself on the ground and snarled at him before turning tail and running off. Of course, the objectives of different walking operations may be quite different. The guide I'm talking about aimed to track animals like lions and get you as close as he could as safely as he could. Whatever the outcome, I found it a blast just to be in the African bush on foot with the chance of coming across animals more formidable than the kangaroos of my country.

John

afrigalah

Just a thought...here's a magazine article I wrote about one of my walking safaris. You might get some 'atmosphere' from it: www.afrigalah.com/zimimg/Elephant_trails.html

John

Roccco

John,

I really enjoyed the photos of wild dogs on your website, especially of the puppy in the den...what a fantastic photograph!!!

afrigalah

Thanks, Rocco. I enjoyed taking them . But don't we all! We have our memories, but to also have those images to go back to countless times over the years and to show friends...well, I put their value ahead of words any time.

I have just one photographic regret from Africa: not being able to take a photo of that black rhino just 15 metres away. I had my finger on the shutter release but thought better of it at the last moment (I had a fairly noisy camera back then). I'm sure the guide was pleased with my restraint, too

John

GreenDrake

I immensely enjoyed perusing the photos and narratives on your website. Your article recounting your walking safari in Zimbabwe truly captured the spirit of walking in the African bush.

Great story about how you chose your name and I encourage all the “Non-Aussies” here to take a moment to go to Afrigalah’s website to learn what a “Galah” is. My Aussie friends will be impressed that I learned how to pronounce that correctly. No doubt your madness is something that is shared by many here.

afrigalah

&quot;No doubt your madness is something that is shared by many here&quot;.-<i>GreenDrake</i>

I know it is. Thanks.

John

BHowerton

Thanks everyone for your input.

GreenDrake – I had read your earlier post with great interest, since you stayed in the same camps I’ll be in. Your trip report relating to the walking portion seemed to get thin in terms of game sightings, but I couldn’t tell whether that was due to sensory overload and the exhaustion of describing yet another phenomenal game encounter or whether the game sightings on the walks just moved at a different pace. Now I know. Thanks for sharing your insight.

Rocco – If only I had come across all of your posts in the early stages of my planning! It would have saved me HOURS of my own research. Unfortunately, my job (like most) creates some time limitations and I only have 7 nights on the ground and won’t be able to visit any of the other camps you’ve looked into. However, rest assured that when it comes time to plan the next trip to Zambia (probably next year) your posts are the first place I’m going to check before I start planning my budget and itinerary.... Any chance you’ll be turning your research efforts to Botswana or East Africa before then so we can consider those destinations as well?

Anyway, it’s still a tough call, giving up even one night out in the park with only five or six other guests. But in any event thanks again for everyone’s help.....

Roccco

BHowerton,

For the Fodors resident Botswana expert, I must defer to Julian (&quot;Jasher&quot. Do a search under &quot;Jasher&quot; and you will have an encyclopedia full of Botswana information including his encyclopedia lengthed trip report from his July safari to Botswana recently completed.

Also, as far as Tanzania goes, I just enjoyed a wonderful safari there last March visiting some of the finest properties, so I do know a thing or two about Tanzania (how many other people have captured a full grown male lion climbing 30 feet up a tree or a male lion stalking and killing a wildebeest all by himself?). However, that credit goes to Nomad Tanzania the ground operator I used for that portion of the safari and despite being in Tanzania, I enjoyed a very exclusive safari experience with Nomad.

Take a look at my trip report and photos:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34775997

www.kodakgallery.com/rocco/tanzania

Tanzania, Botswana and Zambia...all great safari destinations. You will not be disappointed with your week spent with the Bushcamp Company. How are you dividing your camps up?

Chindeni and Kapamba are hopefully on the list.

GreenDrake

BHowerton - tough call with the tight time on the ground. I will reassure you that this is a no lose situation. Both options offer so many pluses you will not go wrong. If you have any specific questions about my experience at Mfuwe Lodge or the other Bushcamp Co. camps feel free to ask here or shoot me off an e-mail at [email protected].

BHowerton

Rocco -- At present I'm booked for 2 nights each in the Chamilandu, Chindeni, Bilimungwe camps, respectively, with the final night at Chaminuka outside Lusaka (so I can catch the early BA flight out). I believe the itinerary is arranged as such since I’ll be walking between the camps, and so you have to schedule “adjoining” camps. Kapamba’s not on the list, although it almost looks too posh. Wouldn’t want to forget I’m in the bush.....

Also, your photo link didn’t go through. They may have moved your page or something. Thought you might want to know... If you figure out the new link please send it again. I’d love to see the pics.

GreenDrake – The itinerary should sound familiar to you. And thanks for your offer for further questions. I will definitely have some questions on lenses to bring (which Rocco may have some thoughts on too). I have a 200mm f2.8 and a 400mm f6.3, shoot slides (I like 20x30 prints), and am trying to figure out whether I need to bring both or maybe break down and get a digital to make the 200mm effectively a 300mm and thereby split the baby, if 300mm will be sufficient. From what you’ve described, it sounds like a lot of my shots are going to be from the camps themselves, and you obviously know what kind of distances are involved to surrounding water holes, lagoons, etc. Any thoughts you might have on that would also be appreciated.

Thanks guys....

mkhonzo

For the photography I would suggest that you grab a 2x converter for pics taken while on the hoof. I would also suggest the investment of a monopod for use while walking. The 200mm will be OK for walks, but you will not have sufficient range for most species. The 300mm will do, but again the range will be enhanced with the converter, even though your light will be compromised by the aperture losses.

Remember that your shutter is going to sound like a fire cracker when you are out and about walking, take care to discuss photo ops with your guide before you commence the walk, he/she might well brief you ahead of time.

If you have macro take that too, many little things seen on foot that are worth shooting.

Roccco

BHowerton,

Try this link:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/rocco/main/tanzania

The present itinerary that you have should be wonderful. A bit more feedback...it is up to the guests whether a morning game drive is done or a walking safari is done...by making sure you voice your opinion, you may probably count on at least a couple morning game drives.

Also, on your game drives AND on your walking safaris, try to be as close to your guide as possible in order to get the most out of your safari and to be able to have the most input on your safari. While it may sound selfish to the other guests...if you don't do this, the other guests probably will. I am not advocating for you to be domineering and obnoxious, just for you to definitely have as much input in your safari experience as possible.

I prefer the seat directly behind the guide, unless I am solo and then I prefer the passenger seat beside the guide.

cooncat3

BHowerton - I hope you love Chamilandu as much as I did. It's a wonderful place. My 2 cents on the photgraphy while walking: Try going on at least one walk without the camera, unless you don't mind lugging your gear as well as your binoculars. You will want binocs on the walks. It will be warm. I found carrying my 20D and 100-400 lens sort of a pain - and during the time I was there anyway, the photo ops on foot were minimal. This is just my experience. The macro would be good though - I'm bringing mine next time!

Lastly - do ask for at least one or two morning game drives. I'm sure the other guests will be just as keen to get further into the park and get some better photo opportunities.

Have a great trip, and tell Freya at Chamilandu that Sharon says hey!

GreenDrake

BHowerton - that is exactly the intinerary I had with a Mfuwe Lodge day on the front and back end of the bush camps.

In terms of distances for photography from each camp, you will have a wide range. At Chamilandu while sitting on my porch I had great opportunties to capture elephants crossing the Luangwa with beautiful vistas in background. These elephants at times were often often 300 to 500 yards away and I wished I had the capabilities to capture those images.

In Chendeni the Lagoon will be about 25-550 yards from your back porch and the Bilimungwe watering hole is about 25 yards from the main meeting/dining area.

Some great advice from those above in regards to making sure you have a good pair of binoculars for the walks, trying to lighten the load on walks, and sticking close to the guide so as to maximize information.

For my upcoming walking trip I am taking a an old digital Olympus 700 with a 10x optical zoom (roughly=350MM) and adding a 1.7 converter which I did not have last time. I am also putting this in a Tamrack Velocity small backpack so it will out of the way, but easily accessible when needed.

We did not do any day drives at the bush camps, but I don't recall anyone asking to do so. Everyone will have to agree on that activity as there will be only one guide at each bush camp. We did have night drives. We would start with a short afternoon walk that would end in a spot where we would have sundowners and we would begin night drive from that location.

GreenDrake

Bilimungwe watering hole is 25-50 yards away not 25-550 yards from central meeting area.