report on Cape Town, Pafuri, Mala Mala trip
 

Again, thanks, Fodorites for hints in these threads over the last several months. We really loved our recent 10 night trip to South Africa.
While in Cape Town, we went on tours to Winelands, Cape Pensinsula and Robben Island. Four nights in Cape Town seemed like enough when we were planning, but we really needed five! Wished we'd have had more time to see more neighborhoods in the city and wished we could have fit in a Township tour/visit. We spent a lot of time at the VA Waterfront which was less touristy-tacky than we'd imagined and which has some darned good restaurants! Stayed at the Radisson which has a fun bar which seems to attract a crowd that isn't just tourists.
Mala Mala is awesome; but as Mala Mala is well-established and gets lots of justified praise on this site, I will concentrate my accolades on Pafuri Camp in the far northern part of Kruger. It is run jointly by Wildernes Safaris and the local Makuleke people who are gracious and friendly and who are truly both interesting AND interested in you and your world too.
Pafuri is "rustic" compared to Mala Mala but the tented rooms are luxurious, the food is great and the landscape is awesome and quite varied compared to Sabi Sands. There are many fabulous birds at Pafuri. We saw a male lion at Pafuri too which we did not find at Mala Mala (although Mala Mala had loads of all other types of big game.)
We saw leopards mating at Mala Mala, something we will never forget.
I recognize that South Africa has many very real problems which have been chatted about in detail on these pages. But it is an inspiring place both in terms of its natural beauty and its history and young democracy. I am certainly one American who will try to convince friends and loved ones to visit: Clearly, the future of the nation is inextricably bound to tourism.
In terms of crime/safety I know there are big, sad issues nationwide, but I can only offer a reassuring anecdote: My wife accidently left 200 Rand in her pants pocket when she sent it to be washed at Pafuri and the laundress returned it the next day.

Thanks for your report, especially on Pafuri which has not been described much on this board. It sounds like a very congenial camp.

How many nights did you stay there and can you talk a little more about your game viewing experience.

Thanks.

CW

Your 5 rather than 4 night comment in Cape Town is informative.

Thanks for your positive Parfuri comments. The 200 Rand story would help endear the place to you.

Welcome back!

Thanks....what were your game viewing highlights at Pafuri? I have been intrigued by Pafuri and hope to visit over the next year or two....

Hari

I'd like to hear more about the game viewing at Pafuri also. I am considering adding Pafuri to my trip to Mashatu in 2008.
Since game viewing is a priority for me I'd really like to hear more.
Thanks!
Lily

Hi Karen and Wallace,

I am booked for Pafuri Wilderness and the Outpost in July, both in Northern Kruger,
please share us more details about your stay there?
Hilde

Lillipets, I am booked for Pafuri and Mashatu for July 2007. Hope to be able to share some info on both stays after we return..

Further info as requested:
1.) We were three nigths at Pafuri, five game drives (the flight out after the third night left relatively early so we did not get in a morning game drive that day)
2.) Saw more nyala and other non-Impala antelope than in southern region, genet cats (which I thought were really cool with spots on body and stripes on tail) , civet cats, several female lions, no giraffe, lots of zebra, lots of elephants, many lone male buffalos but not big herds, and one male lion. I confess to not remembering most of the the birds but remember lovely long-tailed wydah, beautifully colored bee-eaters, lots of different owls, eagles, vultures. We saw crocadilles in teh river. For what it is worth, a couple of bird-watchers from Jo'berg were there for our last drive and managed to see 3 of 6 rare birds they were looking for in Pafuri (These were people who had already ticked off >300 South African birds).
The SOUND at Pafuri was awesome. Much more noise at night than at Mala Mala. Great choruses of frogs, etc.

HildeV

I knew someone was going this summer but I couldn't remember who it was...thanks for refreshing my memory. I'm looking forward to your report.

Lily

hi, karenandwallace,

really interested to read your experiences as weare booking into the CPT Radisson for 4 nights at the beginning of our garden route tour in July.

hope you don't mid a few questions:

did you do the tours yourselves or with a company [we'll have a car, but would consider a tour if really good]

can you recommend some good eating places at the waterfront & CPT centre?

Where did you do in the winelands?

anything you did that you think older teens [19 & 16] would particularly enjoy?

looking forward to learning more,

regards, ann

Dear Annhig:
Our trip was booked through Wilderness Safari and used a CPT company called either Paradise Tours or Paradise Travel for regional trips and transport back and forth to hotels. They were uniformly excellent, on-time, etc. Small vans, 6-7 people max. Suspect teens would enjoy a full day Cape Peninsula tour, maybe less so Winelands.
(We went to Stellenbosch and Franchoek.)
The Robben Island tour is super for teens (book in advance!)
We ate at pretty touristy but good places as VA: Den Anker, Baia, and Belthezar. The Kloof Street area seemed like it had many good restaurants, but would ask for local advice on that.
Have fun.
Karenandwallace

hi, karenand wallace,

thank you for taking the time to reply. I to osuspect that they [our teens] would enjoy the cape rather than the winelands, but learning to compromise is part of growing up isn't it? I was thinking about Spier as one of our wineland destinations, because of the cheetahs. [thus proving how grown up I am, not sure about the kids!]

How far in advance did you book for Robbin Island? - the web-site isn't very clear.

regards, ann

hi again,

oops, that should have been "I also suspect" - early onset of senior moment!

regards, ann

We will be in Cape Town from May 31 to June 5. Would love any restaurant suggestions. Also any atractions that you stumbled upon that are not on the typical tourist radar?

I was in Cape Town for 10 days in Feb. Could easily have stayed longer. A magic place!!
Highlights were a township tour with (I think) Jenny from nomvuyous tours and a fantastic evening on a jazz safari with coffeebeans tours. Both must does!!!!!
Did Robben Island but was very dissapointed. It's a jail on an island - not much more than that except you learn a bit of history and if you know the history don't need to do the tour.
Stayed at Waterfront at Breakwater Lodge which is great value for money!!!!! Waterfront has excellent restuarants,bars and shops. There may be a lot of tourists there but plenty of locals go there too.
Moyo restuarant at Spier in Stellenbosch was very touristy but well worth it. But book a table in the trees. Not impressed with Cheetahs there.
I don't know of one person who has not had an absolutely fantadstic holiday in Cape Town!