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Question for cary999
Hi Tom
I noticed in your recent Sth Africa/Zambia/Kenya Trip report that along with your D200 purchase you also bought the Tokina 12-24 f/4. You mention here: (quote) "I also got the Tokina 12-24 zoom, but figured I would not need it for safari photos" I have just today ordered the 12-24 myself and will be taking this with me to Zambia next year. I was wondering if you in fact took this with you on this last Safari trip? As this have been the ideal landscape lens! (or was weight a factor?) Cheers Marc |
Hi Marc,
I got the Tokina 12-24 and also the Nikon 18-200. Yes, the Tokina is a great landscape lens. But I figured the Nikon with its 27mm equivalence would do fine. So I did not take the Tokina. It was a matter of how useful would the Tokina be in that remaining wide angle NOT covered by the Nikon (18-27mm. I simply decide it was not worth taking along, all things considered. YMMV :-) I took very very few landscape photos. Sure, take the Tokina if you think you'll do landscapes. I'm now wondering if I "need" another telephoto in place of the 18-200. Perhaps the new Nikon 70-300 that is due out soon. The Nikon 70-200 2.8 would be nice but I'd like to have a bit more telephoto than I now have. Of course if I do this, then I need something for the short range so would I still take the 18-200 or get a 18-70, 17-55? I'd probably take the 18-200. In reality it's probably all about "lens lust" but who cares? Just toys. What lenses have you been using? regards - tom |
Now Tom, you should know it's not a case of NEEDING a new lens, but WANTING a new lens. Big difference ! :-) Put it down to LENS LUST !
I have on order at the moment the Nikkor f/2.8 300 VR (I've been waiting for nearly 2 months now!). I'll be taking this with me together with the 12-24 Tokina, 17-55, 70-200 VR + 1.4 & 1.7 tc's and 500D Canon close up lens (for some macro shots) and the Manfrotto 680B monopod and I'll be borrowing a mate's D200 as a second body as well. I also have the Sigma 150 f/2.8 Macro lens, however I think I'll be close to my light aircraft luggage allowance as it is ;-) I can't wait to take delivery of the 300 VR, so I can get out there and practice! Good luck with your decisions on lens choice. Cheers Marc |
Marc, you know "lens lust" up close and personal, the Nikkor 300 2.8 VR indeed. Did you check out how much it costs? Of course if you have to ask then you can't afford it. Does have a $100 rebate going for it :-)
I'm glad you are still young and strong to carry all of that. Of course if I'd lose about 20 pounds of weight then with your kit I'd net out to 0 !!!! Don't forget the laptop PC, another hard drive, batteries, chargers, etc. Better make that I should lose 30 pounds. But then I would still have to lose 30 years of age!!! Remind me, when are you going? (I'm all set for September 2007). regards - tom |
Marc,
Congratulations on the Nikkor 300/2.8 VR. Know of it by reputation only, but as the equivalent of my Canon 300/2.8 IS, my main safari lens, I don't think you can go wrong with it. Yes, a tad weighty, but I walk with mine complete with TC, flash unit and bracket, and monopod...and I'm well into my 60s. In a safari vehicle, it's a breeze. But why are you having to wait so long for it? I would die of frustration. John |
Marc - Since you also have D200 I have question about sensor cleaning. I can do it, I have the Copperhill kit with Sensorswipe, pecpads, fluid, etc. One reason I took only the one lens, 18-200, to Africa was so that I would never have to change it and thus avoid the sensor cleaning thing. You, what have you found about this sensor dirt thing when swapping lenses in Africa? How often do you test/check for it? How often do you actually do a cleaning? ETC?
regards - tom |
Hi Tom
I have the Nikon D2Hs and will be borrowing a D200. I use the Sensor Swabs + Eclipse cleaning fluid. I only use them when the sensor has dust on it (By shooting at blue sky, Aperture wide open, and then checking for any dust spots with PS on PC). You might want to speak to John (Afrigalah) in regards to sensor cleaning on a dusty safari trip as I'm sure he would have more experience than I. On my last trip I only took my 70-200 VR + 1.7tc & 17-55 on an old D100. I wasn't that happy with the 1.7tc on the VR as I felt the images were a touch soft,(a monopod may have helped) which is why I've opted for the 300 VR and being a prime lens one can get far better results with the 1.4 tc and still very acceptable results with the 1.7tc (according to all the reviews I've read)and which is why I'm keen to practice with it! John, The reason why I've been waiting so long for the 300 VR is because there aren't any available at the moment, :'( . I'm sourcing it here in OZ from a guy on a DSLR forum, while I wait for him to take delivery from HK. Plus I'm getting it for a good price as well ;-) Cheers Marc |
A bit of correction on sensor cleaning. To view sensor dust the aperature needs to be closed down to at least F16 or better yet F22. The smaller aperatures show more of the dust. Also, when shooting the blue sky, be sure to focus as close as possible (not infinity) so that any spots that show up represent dust and not birds. If you can get away with one of the commonly used brush methods, you might be better off. It is just not that easy to use the wet methods in the field without very good light and the ability to view your images on a PC. Visible dust makes a good but expensive brush. You can get just as good a brush for just a copule of dollars at an art supply store. Just be sure to wash all of the sizeing out of the brush with detergent, before using it on your sensor.
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Marc/Tom...
Sorry, no experience whatsoever on sensor cleaning :( . I use film cameras. My wife uses digital but hasn't yet had significant problems even in the dusty Linyanti...but using zoom lenses, she doesn't have to change lenses. Marc, I feel for you. I got my 300/2.8 in a matter of days from NY, but I've just had a couple of minor items (peanuts compared with the lens) take three months to reach me from the States. Not because they were in short supply, but because of postal service problems. I thought the items were lost; they should have got here in two weeks. Next time I'll use the same efficient courier service that brought my lens, even if the shipping cost is higher than the price of the items. John |
Hi Safarichuck
I should have said stepped down, NOT wide open in regards to the aperture and cleaning sensor issue.My apologies. Cheers Marc |
Marc,
I knew it was just a typo slip, just didn't want to confuse anybody. By the way I tried a neat trip on our last safari. I kept the camera with long lens attached in a waterproof pillowcase while in the vehicle. Seemed to keep the dust under control. |
I meant "neat trick". Talk about typos.
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Sensor dust check - I don't take a PC laptop with me. Gotta draw the line at something!!! Could use the LCD screen on the D200 but not real easy to do, zoom way in then pan.
Pillow case, even a typical cotton kind would help a lot. But ya know, I've never been on a really really dusty safari. Course I've also never been in the Serengeti either:-) Would be good though to have something like that with you just in case. I usually take a very light wind breaker jacket so could wrap camera-lens in that. Anyway, good to keep in mind. regards - tom |
I recently got the Visible Dust Arctic Butterfly for our upcoming trip to Ethiopia, Uganda and Rwanda. I have used it a couple of times on our Canon 400D and it seems to work very well. It's also very compact and easy to fit in a travel bag.
I don't know how credible it is, but Visible Dust's web site has a whole section talking about how harmful artist brushes are for a DSLR sensor. I've found that I can see dust spots by just taking an out-of focus picture at F22 of a blank white wall, using the flash if necessary and then looking at the image on my camera's LCD screen. It might not reveal every tiny speck of dust, but it definitely shows the big ones. Chris |
Hi Safarichuck
Tell me more about this waterproof pillowcase? Do you mean like one of those camping dry sacks? As this is what I'll be taking with me. Cheers Marc |
Naturally, I don't know how quickly different people want to have their cameras aimed at a target. But I've found anything that <i><b>encloses</b></i> a camera/lens combination (such as a bag or pillowcase) just slows things down an intolerable amount, especially with off-camera flash bracket and flash head attached. The most I'm prepared to do is throw a jacket or blanket over the equipment while on the move, and remove it while the dust is settling around the newly-stopped vehicle (ala tom, except 'wrapping' slows things down too when it comes to unwrapping). Most of the time I've don't even bother to cover the gear at all, because speed is of the utmost importance. Film cameras have the advantage that dust is a minimal problem, even when changing lenses or teleconverters...one of their few (and rapidly decreasing) advantages as technology steadily improves digital cameras.
John |
Marc,
The pillow case is really low tech and inexpensive but it works pretty well. I bought a kingsize waterproof pillowcase at Walmart ($7.00). The label says that it is waterproof and impervious to "dust mites". Has a zipper at one end that you can zip up (slows you down a bit) or just fold over and leave in your lap. It really didn't slow me down. When the vehicle stopped, I just pulled the camera out (lens hood attached and on the right way) and shot. Sometimes the pillowcase would fall to the floor and even be stepped on but the inside remained pristine. Every few days I would take it into the shower with me and give it a good wash. Any sort of camera bag would slow me down too much and the drybag is more tech than one needs for this sort of thing. I use a Lowepro camera backpack to transport my gear. My setup is a canon SLR with a 100-400mm L IS lens and lenshood. Usually I keep it zoomed out to 300mm so its a pretty big package. On my next safari I'll have a larger Series 1 body as well and plan to use the pillowcase method. By the way Chris, I have never been able to see my sensor dust on the cameras LCD. I do have an epson P-2000, but even that shows only the very worst dust. With the wet methods you really need to examine your sensor carefully after cleaning. Sometimes you actually make things worse and need to do it 4 or 5 times. In my experience using the brush method, even if you don;t get all of the dust you don't make things worse. I like this (brush) better for the quick in the bush clean up. If you do spend a night in a nice ledge with good lighting and work area, I would suppose the wet method would be better. |
"in a lodge" Another typo.......would a Mac instead of a PC make me a better typist?
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Hey Chuck,
I just got the 100-400L Canon lens and it will be making its debut on our upcoming trip. We have been testing it around home with birds, at the zoo, etc. and the results we ge with it are phenomenal. I am very glad we got it. Chris |
Chris,
You will love this lens. I did find that it likes to be stopped down a bit for really shar images. Whenever possible I stop down 2 F stops and by using a Safari Sack (Bean Bag) I'm able to get away with really slow shutter speeds and still have tack sharp images. Just leave your image stabilization on normal setting. Another intersting feature that surprised me was that it is really sharp, even at 400 mm. Andy Biggs likes this lens and has done some wonderful "image blur" type motion effects. You might check out his website for ideas if you haven't already discovered it. |
I have looked at that site, thanks. I have extensively tested ours and it seems to be very sharp even wide open at 400mm. All of our shots so far have been handlheld, and the IS comes to our rescue with slow shutter speeds some, but not all, of the time. We are going to do some more practice with it this weekend, but overall we think it is a really great lens. It's also a great lens for getting yourself noticed by other people, whether that's good or bad ... but I have noticed that when we are at the zoo, that lens will really "part the crowd" when my wife is trying to take a picture!
Chris |
Chris, If I recall correctly you are doing a gorilla treck. I have read that for a gorilla treck, people prefer shorter lighter lenses. They feel that the vegitation is so dense that they have to get or can get closer and the big zooms are a bit much. Canon has just released a new F4, 70-200mm LIS lens that really musch lighter than the 100-400. It might be ideal for a gorilla treck if you have any lose change around. Have a good one..
Chuck |
Chuck, you're right, we are doing gorilla treks primarily on this trip. From looking at pictures taken by other people in Rwanda, I had figured that the best lens would actually be the 70-200/2.8L, since it is faster and you sometimes end up in low light conditions with gorillas. But from looking at people's EXIF data, it looked like they were shooting mostly at the long end of the 70-200's range. Given that we really only had it in the budget to get one telephoto, our thinking was that the 100-400 was more versatile, so we got that one as a compromise.
That discussion, of course, leaves size and weight aside, and my understanding is that the 70-200/2.8 is just as big and heavy as the 100-400. The 100-400 gets a little tiring after a while, but we have done several all-day outings with it and have found it tolerable. If the gorillas get too close for the wide end of the 100-400's range, we will have a P&S camera with us, or we can try to do a quick change to our 17-85 lens. Anyway, all lenses are a compromise, and since we were going to travel with only two, we thought the 100-400's greater zoom range would make it a better choice. When we get back I'll let everyone know if our choice worked or not. Chris |
From my experience photographing the gorillas, I'd recommend keeping the longer lens on the camera.
I have always used my Nikkor 80-400 lens on gorilla treks and haven't had any problems with the gorillas being too close. In fact, some of my best shots are with the lens being between the 300-400mm range. You are at a minimum of 7 meters away or almost 23 feet. With the gorillas, you have to make sure you can get their eyes unless you are focusing on a group shot. And you won't always be too close unless they come right up to you and if they try that, the guides most always intervene. It can be tricky though, depending on what part of the forest they're in. If in the bamboo, it's almost always dark. If up in the greener vegetation, you have the chance of mist rolling in. If lady luck's on your side, you'll get to shoot them in an open space against a green, lush backdrop which contrasts nicely against their black hair. But of course, that's the perfect setting everyone hopes for. If there are two of you on the trek, and/or you have two camera bodies, then you always have the different lens choice available. |
Thanks for the insigts Divewap. Do you carry your own photo gear or use the porters? In what countries have you done the trek and/or which is your favorite? I'm trying to get info for a future trek.
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Safarichuck-
I've trekked in both Rwanda and Uganda. Can't really say if I prefer one over the other although I trek more often in Rwanda so I'm a little more familiar with that area. I almost always use a porter to help carry my gear because: A)it gets really heavy after awhile trekking uphill B)it helps to support the locals and the economy When you get to where the gorillas are, the porters stay behind so be prepared to strap on your camera(s)and it's also a good idea to have a jacket or vest with pockets to carry an extra lens or two and memory cards/film, etc. The porters will meet up with you after the hour's visit is over and carry your gear back down for you. Hope this helps. :-) Sandy |
Author: afrigalah
Date: 11/20/2006, 10:22 pm Marc, Congratulations on the Nikkor 300/2.8 VR. Know of it by reputation only, but as the equivalent of my Canon 300/2.8 IS, my main safari lens, I don't think you can go wrong with it. Yes, a tad weighty, but I walk with mine complete with TC, flash unit and bracket, and monopod...and I'm well into my 60s. In a safari vehicle, it's a breeze. But why are you having to wait so long for it? I would die of frustration. John Hi John Just thought I'd let you know that I have finally got my hands on this 300 VR beast! Talk about sharp images ;-) Did you say just a tad weighty ?? =-O I have 9 months to practice good long lens technique! Cheers Marc |
afrigala-John, I am currently trying to decide between the Canon 300 2.8 and the Canon 400 mm DO lens. Since you have experience with the 300mm 2.8 plus a 1.4X teleconverter, do you think the reach will be adequate? Do you ever use a 2X teleconverter? I would keep another body with a 100-400 ready, just in case. I'll be shooting from open vehicles this time (Botswana) and want to avoid anything as big as a 500mm lens. I have read mixed reviews about the DO (Difraction Optics) lenses and my thought was that if they were as good as Canon would have you believe, they would have made a lot more of them by now. What are your thoughts?
Chuck |
Chuck, I use the 300 2.8 with the 1.4x and the 2x. I use them both a lot but I don't have the exif data on many of the pbase pictures. Here are a couple with the 2x.
http://www.pbase.com/cjw/image/51501579 http://www.pbase.com/cjw/image/51512938 http://www.pbase.com/cjw/image/63995990 http://www.pbase.com/cjw/image/64104237 Here is one with the 1.4x http://www.pbase.com/cjw/image/51299758 This one was taken with the 300 2.8 plus the 1.4x plus the 2x (stacked converters) not using a tripod but braced on the back of a plastic lawn chair. http://www.pbase.com/cjw/image/53684217 ((#))Cindy |
I know you aren't considering the 500 but this was taken with the 500 f4 and the 2x TC.
http://www.pbase.com/cjw/image/64236661 Here is another with the 300 + 2x TC http://www.pbase.com/image/42471562 |
Cindy,
Very nice photos, and so are many of the others from your botswana_africa_2005. Do you use a tripod, monopod, sandbag, plastic lawn chair, or what most of the time? regards - tom |
Hi Tom - No monopods, no tripods, no sandbags. At first, most shots were hand held or braced against a pole or the top of the seat-back of the seat in front of me. Just whatever I could find. About halfway thru the trip the safari company did come out to where we were and installed some 1x4 boards or "shelves" for us to brace the camera on. That made it a lot easier.
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"Did you say just a tad weighty ??"
Just a tad...but nothing that I can't carry around on a monopod for a couple of hours :) It's a breeze compared with the couple of times I tried walking with my old 400/2.8 (7 kg)! I gave up that idea pretty fast. John |
"Since you have experience with the 300mm 2.8 plus a 1.4X teleconverter, do you think the reach will be adequate? Do you ever use a 2X teleconverter?"
Chuck, I use a 2x teleconverter most of the time, and the 1.4x only occasionally. With my film cameras, reach with the latter is not always adequate for smaller critters. Sometimes, it's not enough not with the 2x either (especially birds), but not frequently enough to worry me. I once took my old, very heavy 400/2.8 on safari and used it constantly with the 2x. Sometimes, the 800mm wasn't enough reach, either! I've just bought a 2x for my wife for Christmas so we don't have to share, as she's starting to use her 70-200 non-IS with 2x for wildlife. It's an excellent lens...as a basketball photographer, she gets better results with it than her colleagues who use the IS model. She prefers it to my 100-400 IS. As she shoots digital (1D Mark II), reach with the 2x is usually fine. I notice a reference to using stacked converters. I know quite a few photographers do that, and quite happily, but I find it affects image quality too much (so do stacked filters). Some peope even turn their nose up at using just one TC. John |
Sundowner: Cindy, thank you so much for posting some of your wonderful images so that I could see for myself what sort of quality I might get from the 300mm + 1.4X and 2X teleconverters. You have set the bar to a very high standard indeed. the L Breasted Roller is just fantastic. I enjoyed all of your posts and learned just what I needed regrading this combination. I was curious about some of your leopard images (mala mala, I beleive), what combo did you use? I note that you you a variety of bodies. Did you find the focus lost anything with you 20D + teleconverters and did you have more focus success using the combo on a 1 Series body?
afrigala-John, I certainly appreciate your thoughts on teleconverters. I agree with you so I'll probaly get both the 1.4X and 2X converters but use them individually. perhaps the 2X when I think I'll be after birds and the 1.4X the rest of the time. I'll be using a 1.25 crop digital (Canon series 1 MarkIIN) and keep the 100-400 on the 2.6 crop (Canon 20D). That combination will cover me from 160mm to 640mm with my best fixed prime at 525mm. I have reviewd my previous safari images and it seems that this is the range I liked best, even with th 100mm-400mm lens. If I find myself wanting more reach (most people do) I can go out to 750mm on the Canon Series 1 with a 2X teleconverter. From what I have seen of Cindy's images I will not be giving up much IQ. Cindy, I have found several references to a rollbar mount for use in Botswana. It involves using a Manfrotto Quick action Clamp (BO635) and a Wimberley Sidekick on a Ball Head. Looks like a great setup, but a bit limiting for 360 degree mobility. As far as the 500mm is concerned, I would love that lens but in light of its size, I'm afraid I'm not happy with the logistics of transporting it. Perhaps Canon will come out with a DO version of this lens and I'll have it in a minute. Chris, you will love the 100-400mm lens, I only found its reduced apretures limiting in early morning and evening game drives. I found that increasing the iso was needed but the Canons are very clean at high iso so not really that limiting (up to 800 anyway). africaddict-Marc, my apologies for using your post. I hope other have found it a useful as I have. Cheers All, Chuck |
Hi Chuck - I have only used a 10D and 20D so far so anything you've seen of mine was with one of those cameras. (I have just recently purchased the 1D Mark II N but haven't used it yet.)
I haven't had any problems with autofocus and TC's on my f/2.8 lenses. I think I had AF with the stacked converters also because the camera only recognizes the first TC. (I also think AF does NOT work with a TC at f/8.0 so if I put a 2x on an f/4.0 I have to manual focus.) There is a post about the 300 2.8 and TC's at www.naturescapes.net. If you aren't a member there, you should go sign up and read the post. It doesn't cost anything to join but you do have to register. Here is a link to the post http://www.naturescapes.net/phpBB2/v...us&start=0 There are 3 pages of this post so be sure to read all of them. Very interesting info. After you read that, check out their wildlife forum. Amazing stuff there. Leopards at MalaMala. They are fantastic! And close! Here are the specs on these pics. 70-200 at 70mm http://www.pbase.com/image/65278975 70-200 at 140mm http://www.pbase.com/image/64808235 This one had to be taken with the 10D because it tells you the subject distance - 10.2 meters. 70-200@140mm http://www.pbase.com/image/64805540 This one was 70-200@70mm and you can see the steering wheel at the bottom of the picture. We were very close (too close for the 70-200) http://www.pbase.com/cjw/image/69452992 |
Thanks, Chuck. We have shot about 2500 practice pictures with our XTi, almost all of which have been with the 100-400L. In good light it will take phenomenal pictures that are very sharp, even wide open, even at 100%. We find ourselves doing a lot of shooting at 800 and even 1600 ISO. At 1600, the XTi controls the noise enough to make the images usable, but you can't crop them down to 100%, or anything close to that, because then the chroma noise is very evident. I am planning to get DxO to do post-processing for the pictures from our upcoming trip, and that may help with the noise a bit, albeit at the expense of some detail.
Overall, though, we are just thrilled with the 100-400L. The real test, though, begins in just a few days when we head off to Africa again! Chris |
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